What we’ll cover:

• What Is Powdery Mildew?
• Can You Still Eat the Carrots?
• How to Treat Powdery Mildew on Carrots
• How to Prevent Powdery Mildew on Carrots
• Don’t Worry—It Happens

What Is Powdery Mildew?

Powdery mildew is one of the most easily recognizable and widespread fungi.

It first appears as a whitish-gray powdery coating on tops or undersides of leaves. Left untreated, small black dots appear, and they produce spores. Powdery mildew quickly spreads by spores on wind or physical contact. 

Powdery mildew thrives in warm, shady, dry conditions with moderate temperatures (68-86°F / 20-30°C) with high humidity and poorly ventilated areas. It’s less likely to spread in direct sunlight or wet conditions.

On carrots, it usually shows up on the foliage first:

• White or gray powder on the leaves
• Yellowing or browning as the disease progresses
• Reduced root growth due to less photosynthesis

For a full overview, visit How to Prevent and Treat Powdery Mildew.

New to gardening? The terminology can feel overwhelming at first. That’s why I created a Practical Gardening Glossary with simple definitions for common garden terms like powdery mildew, bolting, and photosynthesis.

Can You Still Eat the Carrots?

Yes—if the roots are still healthy, they’re safe to eat. Just cut off the infected tops. But once many of the leaves are affected, the plants can’t photosynthesize well and won’t grow. At that point, it’s usually best to harvest what you can.

How to Treat Powdery Mildew on Carrots

This is my go-to method, and it works well:

DIY Spray Recipe:

• 15 ml (1 tablespoon) potassium bicarbonate
• 15 ml (1 tablespoon) liquid castile soap
• 3.8 liters (1 gallon) of water

Spray all parts of the plant thoroughly. To treat an outbreak, spray every 7 days. If it’s hot, apply after sunset and rinse the leaves afterward to prevent burn.

Once the infection spreads, it is hard to recover. It’s often better to harvest the carrots and focus on improving conditions for next season.

How to Prevent Powdery Mildew on Carrots

• Thin carrots early. This helps improve airflow and lower humidity around the leaves.
• Water at the base. Wet foliage creates the perfect environment for mildew to thrive.
• Avoid overcrowding. Crowded plants are more susceptible. Thin to about 2 inches apart.
• Mulch lightly. A thin layer of mulch can help regulate moisture without trapping too much humidity.
• Choose resistant varieties. Look for types less prone to powdery mildew. Two good choices are:
  • Bolero – A reliable Nantes-type carrot known for good disease resistance.
  • Rubypak – A hybrid carrot with strong tops and improved resistance to mildew.
• Plant at the right time. Powdery mildew often appears too late in spring to replant carrots. It’s best to rotate and plant carrots in a different area next season. For tips on timing and growing, read How to Grow Carrots.
• Don’t replant in the same bed after mildew—give that space a break from carrots to disrupt the disease cycle.

If your first-year carrots are bolting, weather swings could be to blame. Learn more in Why Carrots Bolt in Their First Year.

Don’t Worry—It Happens

It’s frustrating to watch carrot tops go from healthy to sick so quickly. Powdery mildew spreads fast and can be hard to stop once it takes hold. Focus on harvesting what you can, improving airflow, and rotating your crops next season.

For more help diagnosing garden problems, visit the Garden Troubleshooting Guide.

If you’ve dealt with powdery mildew on your carrots, I’d love to hear what’s helped—share your experience in the comments. And if this post was helpful, please share it.

The post Powdery Mildew on Carrots: Causes and Solutions appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The good news is your garden—no matter how big or small—can become a vital sanctuary for these essential creatures.

Creating an insectary border is a simple and effective way to start supporting pollinators, whether you’re gardening in a spacious yard or using containers in limited spaces.

Why Plant for Pollinators?

Pollinators are essential for the reproduction of most flowering plants and more than a third of our food supply. Creating spaces that support them:

• Enhances local biodiversity.
• Stabilizes pollinator populations.
• Improves the health and productivity of your garden.
  

What is an Insectary Border?

An insectary border is a dedicated planting area designed specifically to attract and sustain beneficial insects and pollinators. These insects naturally help manage pests, reducing your reliance on chemical pesticides.

Curious about how beneficial insects manage pests naturally? Learn more in my article, “Using Beneficial Insects as Natural Pest Control“.

How to Create Your Insectary Garden

1. Select the Right Location

Choose an area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily and has good drainage. In hot desert climates, a spot with afternoon shade can help protect blooms and extend flowering, especially during the hottest months. Ideally, place your insectary border near your vegetable garden to get the maximum benefits from pollinators and pest control. Avoid windy areas and locations with bright nighttime lights, which can discourage pollinator activity.

If garden space is limited, containers are a practical alternative—just group several together in a sunny, protected spot you can easily observe and enjoy.

2. Choose Pollinator-Friendly Plants

Select a mix of annual and perennial plants with overlapping bloom times to ensure pollinators have continuous food sources throughout the growing season. Native plants are ideal because local pollinators are adapted to them.

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Planting for Pollinator Options for Arizona Gardens:

Perennials: Angelita Daisy, Baja Fairyduster, Blackfoot Daisy, Blanketflower, Chocolate Flower, Coral Vine, Creosote, Damianita Bush, Desert Lavender, Desert Marigold, Desert Milkweed, Fairy Duster, Firecracker Penstemon Mt. Lemmon Marigold, Globe Mallow, Lantana, Mealy Cup Sage, Mexican Bush Sage, Morning Glory, Parry’s Penstemon, Passion Vine, Rock Penstemon, Rock Verbena, Rosemary, Salvia, Sandpaper Verbena Shrubby Germander, Spanish Lavender, Skyflower, Tangerine Crossvine, Turpentine Bush, Woolly Butterfly Bush, Yellow Bells

Annuals: Alyssum, Aster, Anise, Bee Balm, Buckwheat, Chamomile, Clover, Coneflower, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Daisy (Regular and Shasta), Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Goldenrod, Lovage, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Ratibida, Rudbeckia, Sunflowers, Verbena, and Yarrow

Looking to add native wildflowers to your pollinator planting? Arroyo Lupine is a great spring bloomer that supports bees, butterflies, and soil health.

Hyssop is a must-have for pollinator gardens—it provides nectar for bees and butterflies while adding beauty and fragrance. Learn how to grow hyssop and why it belongs in every insectary border.

For more details about plants that thrive in pollinator gardens, check out my post, “Plants that Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators”.

3. Group Plants Together in Your Insectary Border

Pollinators prefer clustered plantings, which make nectar and pollen collection easier. Plant in groups if possible rather than scattering single plants.

4. Diversify Flower Shapes and Colors

Different pollinators are attracted to different flower shapes and colors:

• Tubular flowers (penstemon, salvia) attract hummingbirds.
• Flat and open flowers (daisies, sunflowers) attract butterflies and bees.

Grouping plants strategically can improve pollinator attraction and plant health. Discover more in my post, “5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting“.

5. Provide Essential Water and Shelter

Pollinators need more than just food:

• Water: Include a shallow dish filled with water and pebbles or sticks for safe drinking spots.
• Shelter: Leave areas of bare soil for ground-nesting bees, and provide brush piles, nesting boxes, or piles of hollow stems for other beneficial insects.

Want to offer even more nesting options for beneficial insects? Follow my step-by-step guide to using insect hotels to learn how to set one up in your garden.

6. Avoid Chemicals and Go Organic

Avoid pesticides that harm pollinators. Instead, use organic practices such as:

• Allowing time for beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings to manage infestations rather than spraying off with water and disrupting the process.
• Hand-picking and daily monitoring to manage troublesome pests, such as squash bugs and potato beetles. Need effective alternatives to pesticides? Explore safe and sustainable solutions in “Organic Pest Control That Really Works“.

Interested in transitioning to organic gardening methods? My guide, “How to Be an Organic Gardener“, provides practical tips to help you get started.

7. Add Butterfly-Friendly Plants for Pollinators

Butterflies need specific host plants to lay eggs and feed caterpillars:

• Milkweed (essential for monarchs)
• Parsley, dill, fennel (ideal for swallowtails)

Embrace a Natural Look in Your Insectary Garden

Pollinator gardens don’t need to be perfectly manicured—let leaves and twigs accumulate as nesting material. A thriving pollinator garden is a vibrant and diverse ecosystem.

Start Small and Expand Gradually

Even creating a small insectary border or adding a few containers can make a difference. As your garden grows, consider expanding your insectary garden and increasing plant diversity.

Have you created an insectary border or pollinator-friendly garden? Share your favorite plants or tips in the comments below.

Sources:

• Honey Bees and Waterwise Gardens – EMWD Demonstration Garden
• Month-By-Month Gardening in the Deserts of Arizona: What to Do Each Month to Have a Beautiful Garden All Year by Mary Irish (2008)

The post Planting for Pollinators: Create an Insectary Garden Anywhere appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Quickly Find Warm-Season Companion Plants:

• Lavender
• Sage
• Basil
• Marigold
• Thyme
• Rosemary
• Gaillardia
• Amaranth
• Sesame
• Salvia
• The Benefits of Companion Planting
• Summary Table: Warm-Season Companion Plants
• FAQ About Companion Planting

Lavender

Growing Information: Lavender is a drought-tolerant perennial that thrives in full sun and well-drained soil. I plant lavender in native soil (not raised beds) and don’t overwater.

Varieties to try: Fernleaf, Goodwin Creek Grey, Spanish, and French lavender perform well in the low desert.

Attracts: Lavender’s sweet fragrance and nectar-rich flowers draw in bees and butterflies.

Learn More: How to Grow Lavender

Sage

Growing Information: Sage is a hardy, heat-tolerant herb that tastes as good as it looks. Its silver-green leaves and occasional purple flowers add texture to your garden, and it thrives in hot, dry conditions. Sage grows well in the corner of a raised bed or native soil.

Attracts: The purple blooms of sage are loved by bees and hummingbirds.

Learn More: How to Grow Sage

Basil

Growing Information: Basil is a summer favorite that pairs perfectly with vegetables like tomatoes. It enhances flavor, and its aromatic leaves also help mask the scents that attract pests. Plant a wide variety of basil types and allow some to flower.

Attracts: Basil’s small white or purple flowers attract bees, ensuring a steady pollinator presence during the warm season.

Seed Source: Basil Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Basil

Marigold

Growing Information: Marigolds are vibrant annuals known for their pest-repellent properties. French marigolds release compounds through their roots that repel nematodes and have a strong scent that keeps aphids, whiteflies, and mosquitoes at bay.

Attracts: These cheerful flowers lure in beneficial insects, such as ladybugs (learn why NOT to buy ladybugs here) and hoverflies, which help keep pest populations in check.

Seed Source: Marigold Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Marigolds

Thyme

Growing Information: Thyme is a versatile, low-growing herb. It requires minimal water and thrives in full sun, making it ideal for hot climates.

Attracts: Thyme’s delicate blooms attract bees and other pollinators, supporting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Learn More: How to Grow Thyme

Rosemary

Growing Information: Rosemary is a hardy, aromatic shrub that grows best in dry, sunny environments. Its needle-like leaves and occasional blue or purple flowers make it a striking and useful addition to any garden. I plant lavender in native soil (not raised beds) and don’t overwater.

Attracts: Rosemary draws in bees and other pollinators with its fragrant blooms, while its strong aroma may help deter certain pests.

Learn More: How to Grow Rosemary

Gaillardia (Blanket Flower)

Growing Information: Gaillardia is a heat-loving perennial known for its long-lasting, bright red and yellow blooms. It’s exceptionally drought-tolerant.

Attracts: Its vibrant flowers attract bees and butterflies, boosting pollination and enhancing the overall biodiversity of your garden.

Seed Source: Gaillardia Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Gaillardia

Amaranth

Growing Information: Amaranth is a striking annual with colorful foliage and delicate seed heads. It thrives in high temperatures.

Attracts: Amaranth’s unique blooms are a favorite among bees and other pollinators, while birds often enjoy its seeds, adding an extra layer of natural pest control.

Seed Source: Amaranth Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Amaranth

Sesame

Growing Information: Sesame is a lesser-known, heat-tolerant crop that offers a unique look with its delicate, tubular flowers. It’s valued for its edible seeds and its ability to adapt to arid conditions.

Attracts: The small, attractive sesame flowers invite bees and other beneficial insects.

Seed Source: Sesame Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Sesame

Salvia

Growing Information: Salvia has many varieties, but warm-season salvias are particularly noted for their drought tolerance and vibrant flower spikes. They’re perfect for adding vertical interest to your garden.

Attracts: Salvia’s tubular blooms are highly attractive to hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies, making it a magnet for pollinators and beneficial insects.

Seed Source: Salvia Seeds

The Benefits of Companion Planting

Companion planting is a time-tested strategy that creates a balanced ecosystem in your garden. By growing these warm-season plants together, you not only maximize space but also create a natural environment that:

• Attracts Pollinators: Continuous blooms mean that bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds have a reliable source of nectar throughout the season. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden.
• Enhances Natural Pest Control: Many of these companions repel pests or attract predators (like ladybugs, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps) that keep harmful insects at bay.
• Boosts Soil Health: A diverse planting palette encourages a robust soil ecosystem, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Consider adding papalo to your list of warm-season companion herbs—it’s a flavorful, cilantro-like plant that also helps attract pollinators once it begins to flower.

Looking for a creative way to combine companion planting with small-space gardening? Learn how to grow a Three Sisters Garden in grow bags using corn (or alternatives), beans, and squash for a thriving mini-ecosystem. See how I adapted this method to raised beds in my Three Sisters garden.

If you’re planning your garden layout, don’t miss this guide on cucumber companion plants—you’ll find tips on pairing cucumbers with flowers, herbs, and vegetables to improve growth and reduce pests.

Summary Table: Warm-Season Companion Plants

Use the table below as a quick reference for the pollinators they attract, and their primary companion benefits:

FAQ About Companion Planting

Q1: What is companion planting and why is it beneficial?
A: Companion planting involves growing different plants together to naturally improve pollination, deter pests, and enhance soil health. It creates a balanced ecosystem that reduces the need for chemical interventions.

Q2: Can these warm-season plants thrive in extreme heat?
A: Yes, the plants listed (such as Lavender, Sage, and Gaillardia) are specifically chosen for their heat and drought tolerance, making them ideal for hot climates like Arizona.

Q3: How do I know which beneficial insects are attracted to each plant?
A: Each plant’s growing guide details the primary pollinators and beneficial insects it attracts. For example, Lavender and Rosemary are excellent for attracting bees, while Salvia draws hummingbirds and butterflies.

Q4: Are there any special soil or watering considerations for these plants?
A: Most of these plants prefer well-drained soil and full sun. Utilizing drip irrigation and organic mulch can help maintain consistent moisture levels and reduce water evaporation.

Q5: Where can I find more detailed growing information for each plant?
A: You can click on the growing guide links provided in each plant’s section.

If you have any additional questions, feel free to leave a comment!

In Conclusion

Embracing warm-season companion plants like Lavender, Sage, Basil, Marigold, Thyme, Rosemary, Gaillardia, Amaranth, Sesame, and Salvia can transform your yard into a vibrant, self-sustaining ecosystem. With careful planning and a little attention to each plant’s needs, you can enjoy a productive garden and a haven for beneficial insects and pollinators.

The post Best Companion Plants for Warm-Season Gardens appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Companion planting is a proven way to boost garden success. If you’re new to the concept or looking for general tips, check out my 5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting to get started.

Best Companion Plants for Cucumbers

Cucumbers are warm-season crops that grow best in warm temperatures. When companion planting, choose crops from this list that also thrive in similar conditions to ensure all plants grow well together. For more information on companion plants for warm-season gardens read this guide.

Click on the name of each plant below for a detailed growing guide.

• Beans (especially bush beans): Beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which cucumbers love.
• Corn: Tall corn stalks double as a climbing structure for cucumber vines.
• Marigolds: Their scent repels common garden pests that also bother cucumbers.
• Sunflowers: Offer shade and support for climbing cucumbers. Plant outside of beds.
• Dill: Attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs that feed on cucumber pests.
• Radishes: Help break up soil and can deter pests with their pungent aroma.
• Onions (and other alliums): The smell helps keep pests at bay.
• Lettuce or Spinach: Low-growing greens that enjoy partial shade from climbing cucumbers.
• Nasturtiums: Add color, deter pests, and attract pollinators.
• Amaranth: Acts as a natural trellis for cucumbers, while its vibrant leaves add beauty to the garden and attract pollinators.
• Roselle Hibiscus: Provides shade for cucumbers in hot climates and serves as a heat-tolerant climbing support.
• Tithonia (Mexican sunflower): Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects while acting as a climbing support.
• Zinnia: Adds beauty to the garden and attracts bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
• Gomphrena: A heat-loving flower that supports pollinator populations and adds vibrant color.

For more details about how to grow cucumbers successfully, even in hot climates, see this guide.

Why These Cucumber Companion Plants Work

1. Shade & Support: Tall plants like sunflowers, amaranth, and roselle hibiscus create a cooler microclimate and give cucumbers a place to climb.
2. Pollinator Attraction: Flowers like zinnia, gomphrena, and tithonia bring bees and butterflies, improving cucumber pollination. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden.
3. Pest Control: Marigolds, onions, and nasturtiums deter common pests, keeping cucumber plants healthy.
4. Soil Enrichment: Nitrogen-fixing beans improve the soil, benefiting cucumbers.

By including heat-loving plants like basil, marigolds, tithonia, and gomphrena, your garden will thrive even in high temperatures while creating a habitat for pollinators and beneficial insects. For more plants that attract beneficial insects, see this guide.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective and can reduce pests naturally. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Tips for Using Cucumbers as a Companion Plant

• Train Them Vertically: Take advantage of sturdy plants—like sunflowers or tall amaranth—to let cucumber vines climb. This saves space and keeps fruits cleaner.
• Mix in Flowers & Herbs: This will create a habitat for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Herbs like basil, chives, and garlic protect cucumbers from pests while adding fresh flavors to your kitchen.
• Make Room for Root Crops: Cucumbers have shallow roots, so planting beets or carrots nearby won’t cause competition underground.
• Cool the Soil: Underplant cucumbers with lettuce or spinach. Cucumber vines provide the shade those greens need to stay crisp and happy in hot weather.

Hot Climate Cucumber Tip: Grow Armenian Cucumbers

If you’re gardening in a hot climate (like the low desert), regular cucumber varieties may become bitter as temperatures rise. Learn how to fix and prevent bitter cucumbers here. For heat-loving options, try Armenian cucumbers—the Painted Serpent variety is a favorite. Learn how to grow Armenian cucumbers in this guide. They thrive in intense heat and can climb up sunflowers, amaranth, or roselle hibiscus. Pair them with heat-loving companion plants like basil, marigolds, tithonia, zinnia, and gomphrena.

Final Thoughts

Diversity is key: mixing cucumbers with beans, corn, herbs, and flowers keeps your garden healthy and full of life. Companion planting makes a huge difference, no matter the season. Explore my guide to cool-season companion plants for more companion planting ideas.

Additional Resources

For more information about companion planting and how to make the most of your garden, check out these trusted resources:

• West Virginia University Extension: Companion Planting Guide
• University of Minnesota Extension: Companion Planting in Home Gardens

These guides provide in-depth insights into pairing plants for a healthier, more productive garden.

If this post about cucumber companion plants was helpful, please share it.

The post Cucumber Companion Plants: Enhance Growth and Repel Pests appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

• Spotting Cabbage Worms
• Natural Predators and Companion Planting
• Handpicking Cabbage Worms: The Simplest Solution
• Use Row Covers (But Do It Right!)
• When to Use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis)for Cabbage Worms
• Tolerating Some Cabbage Worm Damage
• Crops Most Susceptible to Cabbage Worms

Spotting Cabbage Worms

Cabbage worms are the larvae of the cabbage white butterfly, those small white moths you might see fluttering around your garden. The worms are usually green and can blend in with the leaves, making them tricky to spot.

The first sign of cabbage worms is often the damage they leave behind—holes chewed into the leaves of your plants. Take a closer look and flip the leaves over. You’re likely to find the culprits: small, green worms and possibly the tiny eggs of the cabbage moth. If you notice white or yellow moths fluttering around your garden, it’s a sign you should inspect your plants regularly.

Natural Predators and Companion Planting

One of the best ways to get rid of cabbage worms is to encourage biodiversity in your garden. Natural predators like birds or beneficial insects can help control cabbage worm populations. You can also plant companion plants that repel cabbage moths, such as thyme, dill, or nasturtiums. This isn’t a quick fix but a long-term solution to a healthier garden overall. Learn more about companion planting principles in this blog post.

Handpicking Cabbage Worms: The Simplest Solution

Handpicking is the easiest and most immediate way to control cabbage worms. Search for them on the undersides of leaves, where they tend to hide. While you’re at it, scrape off any eggs you see. It may feel tedious, but it’s highly effective, especially if you catch them early. Don’t let the worms get your kale–use it in this kale salad instead!

Get in the habit of spending time in your garden each day. Checking the leaves for worms is one of the things to add to your list of what to do in your garden each day. This small habit makes it simple to prevent big infestations.

Use Row Covers (But Do It Right!)

Row covers can create a barrier between your plants and cabbage moths, but they must be used correctly. Before installing them, ensure your plants are free of eggs and worms—otherwise, you’ll just be trapping pests inside. Be sure the covers are securely sealed around the edges so moths can’t sneak in. Get row covers here.

While row covers can work well, I’ve seen them backfire when they’re not applied carefully. In one case, I even saw a garden (mine–see pics below!) filled with trapped cabbage moths happily laying eggs under the cover!

When to Use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis)for Cabbage Worms

If handpicking and row covers aren’t enough, consider using Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a naturally occurring bacteria that’s toxic to caterpillars but safe for humans, pets, and plants. Bt is an organic solution, but it should be used sparingly to minimize harm to other beneficial insects like butterflies and pollinators. Get Bt here.

Here’s how to use Bt effectively:

1. Follow the package instructions carefully for dilution rates.
2. Spray it directly on the affected plants, focusing on the inner leaves where new growth occurs.
3. Reapply every 10–14 days as needed.

Bt is a targeted solution, but it’s important to avoid spraying it all over your garden. While it’s organic, it still kills other caterpillars, so use it sparingly. To learn more about organic pest control that really works read this guide.

Tolerating Some Cabbage Worm Damage

Keep an eye on the inner new growth, if you see holes there, cabbage moths can cause severe damage to the developing plant and should be dealt with. As plants grow older, they can withstand more damage without significant impact. Outer leaves may have holes, but they protect the inner growth.

Crops Most Susceptible to Cabbage Worms

Cabbage worms love plants in the Brassica family, including:

• Cabbage
• Broccoli
• Cauliflower
• Kale
• Brussels sprouts
• Collard greens

If you’re growing any of these, keep an eye out for signs of damage and act quickly to prevent major infestations.

When you spend time in your garden each day, you’ll spot problems like cabbage worm infestations when they are small and easy to manage. By combining these methods—handpicking, row covers, and using Bt sparingly—you can get rid of cabbage worms effectively without damaging your garden’s ecosystem.

If this post about how to get rid of cabbage worms was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Get Rid of Cabbage Worms appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Companion planting is a proven way to boost garden success. If you’re new to the concept or looking for general tips, check out my 5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting to get started.

How does companion planting help your garden? 

Whether planting in the ground, in raised beds, or in containers, adding a wide variety of crops to your garden helps create a balanced ecosystem. When you interplant different types of crops, pests have to work a little harder to find their preferred meal. And finally, planting different vegetables, herbs, and flowers throughout your garden makes it beautiful. 

Key Principles for Cool-Season Companion Success: 

1. Include at least one flower and one herb in each area or garden bed.
2. Combine crops with different growth rates and habits.
3. Avoid planting crops with similar pests next to each other.
4. Allow enough room between crops – follow the square foot spacing guidelines so each crop has enough room to grow. 

If you’re planning your garden layout, don’t miss this guide on cucumber companion plants—you’ll find tips on pairing cucumbers with flowers, herbs, and vegetables to improve growth and reduce pests.

Favorite Cool-Season Companion Combinations

(Click on the crop name to access how-to-grow guides)

1. Broccoli, Calendula, and Beets
   • Calendula attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs and hoverflies that prey on common broccoli pests. Beets mature quickly and can be harvested before broccoli spreads out, making efficient use of space.
2. Peas, Carrots and Spinach
   • Peas fix nitrogen in the soil, benefiting leafy greens like spinach. Carrots grow deep while peas climb up, maximizing vertical space.
3. Green Onions and Strawberries
   • Onions help repel pests that might target strawberries. The compact growth of bunching onions doesn’t compete with strawberries.
4. Broccoli and Dill
   • Dill attracts predatory insects that feast on pests harmful to broccoli. Plus, dill’s feathery foliage doesn’t overshadow broccoli, ensuring both plants get enough sunlight.
5. Radishes Interplanted with Broccoli
   • Radishes grow quickly and can be harvested before the broccoli needs more space.
6. Cabbage, Beets, and Chamomile
   • Cabbage and beets don’t compete for space—cabbage spreads above ground while beets grow below. Chamomile attracts beneficial insects and can enhance the flavor of cabbage.
7. Lettuce, Garlic Chives, and Marigolds
   • Lettuce grows well in the shade of taller plants. Chives deter aphids, and marigolds repel nematodes in the soil, promoting healthier lettuce growth.
8. Kale, Sage, and Nasturtiums
   • Sage can help repel pests like cabbage moths that target kale. Nasturtiums act as a trap crop, luring aphids away from kale.
9. Spinach, Radishes, and Borage
   • Spinach and radishes can be harvested at different times. Borage attracts pollinators and can improve the growth and flavor of spinach.
10. Garlic, Lettuce, and Alyssum
    • Garlic repels pests with its strong scent. Lettuce benefits from pest protection and grows well in the spaces between garlic plants.

Companion planting tip:

Try these cool-season companion plant combinations, but don’t be afraid to experiment and see what works best in your garden. Planning is important, but don’t become overwhelmed with the details. Try to plant a variety of crops and enjoy the process. 

Do you have a favorite cool-season companion planting combination? Share it in the comments below—I’d love to hear what works for you!

More Cool-Season and Companion Planting Resources:

• Winter Garden Planning in Mild Climates
• Best Winter Crops for Hot Summer Climates
• 10 Easy-to-Grow Cool-Season Companion Plants
• Cucumber Companion Plants: Enhance Growth and Repel Pests
• Best Companion Plants for Warm-Season Gardens
• Three Sisters Grow Bag Garden

Plant Partners: Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden

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The post Cool-Season Companion Plant Combinations appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Understanding Fungus Gnats: Life Cycle and Damage Symptoms

Fungus gnats go through four life stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Eggs are laid in damp soil and hatch within 3 days if the temperature is around 75°F (24°C). Once they hatch, the larvae feed on organic matter, including decaying material, fungi, and root hairs. After about 10 days of feeding, they pupate, and adults emerge 4 days later, ready to reproduce.

Fungus gnat infestations can cause symptoms like sudden wilting, poor growth, yellowing leaves, and foliage loss. The larvae can damage roots, leading to poor nutrient uptake and increased vulnerability to soil-borne diseases. Adult fungus gnats don’t harm plants directly but can spread diseases such as pythium, fusarium, and verticillium.

How to Treat Fungus Gnats Indoors:

1. Top Soil with Vermiculite

One of the simplest ways to prevent fungus gnats is to top your soil with a thin layer of vermiculite. Vermiculite is a lightweight, moisture-retentive material that creates a dry surface, making it difficult for gnats to lay eggs. Spread a thin layer (about 1/4 inch) over the soil in your seedling trays or houseplant pots. Get vermiculite here. Learn more about how to start seeds indoors in this blog post.

2. Use Yellow Sticky Traps

I won’t use these outside in my garden, but yellow sticky traps are a great way to catch adult fungus gnats indoors before they can reproduce. Place the traps near your seedlings or houseplants, positioning them just above the soil level. The bright yellow attracts the gnats, which get stuck to the adhesive surface. Replace the traps as they fill up. These are the ones I use.

3. Use a Bug Zapper

A bug zapper can be an effective tool for controlling larger fungus gnat infestations. Set up a bug zapper near your plants to attract and kill adult fungus gnats. This method is especially useful if you have a large number of plants or a persistent problem. This is the bug zapper I use.

4. For Houseplants Only: Apply Bti (Mosquito Bits)

Mosquito Bits contain a naturally occurring bacterium called Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (Bti), which is highly effective against fungus gnat larvae. When the larvae eat the Bti, it produces proteins that attack their digestive system, causing them to stop feeding and eventually die. It’s a safe and effective way to control fungus gnats without harming beneficial insects, pets, or humans.

To use, sprinkle the Mosquito Bits on the soil surface of houseplants, and then water your plants. The Bti will release into the soil, targeting and killing the larvae before they mature into adults. Reapply as needed, following the package instructions. Link for Mosquito Bits.

Preventing Fungus Gnats Indoors

To prevent future fungus gnat infestations, here are some additional tips:

• Water Wisely: Fungus gnats thrive in damp conditions, so avoid overwatering your plants. Let the top inch or so of soil dry out before you water. Water from the bottom if possible. Pour off excess water.
• Maintain Cleanliness: Remove dead leaves or debris from the soil surface. Those dead leaves attract gnats.
• Check New Plants: Before bringing new plants indoors, inspect them for signs of fungus gnats. If possible, isolate them for a few days to be sure. 

Using these strategies, you can effectively manage and prevent fungus gnats, keeping your indoor seedlings and houseplants healthy and thriving.

Source for fungus gnat information:

• ARBICO Organics

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Companion planting is a proven way to boost garden success. If you’re new to the concept or looking for general tips, check out my 5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting to get started.

If you’re planning your garden layout, don’t miss this guide on cucumber companion plants—you’ll find tips on pairing cucumbers with flowers, herbs, and vegetables to improve growth and reduce pests.

1. Calendula

Tips for Growing: Calendula is a hardy annual that thrives in cooler weather. Sow seeds directly into the garden about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. It prefers full sun but can tolerate some shade.

Seed Source: Calendula Seeds
Learn More: Growing Calendula

2. Nasturtium

Tips for Growing: Nasturtiums are easy to grow and are great for the edges of garden beds or corners. Sow seeds directly into the soil, about ½ inch (1.2 cm) deep. Nasturtiums prefer full sun and well-drained soil. They attract beneficial insects like bees and can repel pests such as aphids.

Gardening with kids? Nasturtiums are a good choice. The seeds are easy to plant, and the leaves and flowers are edible. Get more tips for gardening with kids in this article.

Seed Source: Nasturtium Seeds
Learn More: Growing Nasturtium

3. Alyssum

Tips for Growing: Alyssum is a low-growing plant that produces a carpet of tiny, fragrant flowers. Sow seeds directly on the soil surface and press them in lightly. Alyssum is excellent for attracting pollinators and beneficial insects that help keep pests at bay.

Seed Source: Alyssum Seeds
Learn More: Growing Alyssum

4. Dill

Tips for Growing: Dill is a versatile herb that attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Dill prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It’s also great for companion planting with cabbage family crops. Dill is also an excellent companion plant for cucumbers.

Seed Source: Dill Seeds
Learn More: Growing Dill

5. Cilantro

Tips for Growing: Cilantro is a cool-season herb that does well when sown directly into the garden—plant seeds about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Bolted cilantro attracts beneficial insects and can help deter aphids.

Seed Source: Cilantro Seeds
Learn More: Growing Cilantro

Easy-to-Grow Cool-Season Companion Plants

6. Bachelor Buttons (Cornflower)

Tips for Growing: Bachelor buttons are easy to grow and produce beautiful, colorful flowers. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. They prefer full sun and well-drained soil. For more cool-season flowers to plant from seed, see this guide.

Seed Source: Bachelor Button Seeds
Learn More: Growing Bachelor Buttons

7. Borage

Tips for Growing: Borage can grow large, so it’s best planted at the end of a bed. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ½ inches (1.2 cm) deep. Borage attracts bees and other pollinators, and its leaves can be used as mulch or in compost.

Seed Source: Borage Seeds
Learn More: Growing Borage

8. Chamomile

Tips for Growing: Chamomile is a gentle herb that’s easy to grow from seed. Sow seeds on the soil surface and press them in lightly. Chamomile prefers full sun to partial shade.

Seed Source: Chamomile Seeds
Learn More: Growing Chamomile

9. Parsley

Tips for Growing: Parsley is a biennial herb that grows well in cool weather. Sow seeds about ¼ inch (6mm) deep in rich, well-drained soil. Bolted parsley attracts beneficial insects. In this guide, discover the benefits of insect hotels and learn how to effectively use them in your garden to attract beneficial bees and lacewings.

Seed Source: Parsley Seeds
Learn More: Growing Parsley

10. Violet

Tips for Growing: Violets are charming little flowers that thrive in cool weather. Sow seeds directly into the garden about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Violets prefer partial shade and are great for attracting pollinators while adding color to your garden. For more cool-season flowers that love mild winters, see this guide.

Seed Source: Violet Seeds
Learn More: Growing Violets

Incorporating cool-season companion plants into your garden beds is an easy way to boost biodiversity, attract beneficial insects, and add beauty to your space. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden. These ten cool-season companions are easy to grow from seed and will help your garden thrive. Plant a few seeds in the empty spots of your beds and enjoy the benefits they bring all season long.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

If you want more resources on warm-season companion planting read this guide.

Looking for a creative way to combine companion planting with small-space gardening? Learn how to grow a 3 Sisters Garden in grow bags using corn (or alternatives), beans, and squash for a thriving mini-ecosystem.

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Article Index:

• Cantaloupe Fruit Not Forming
• Rotten or Soft Spots on Fruit
• Splitting Fruit
• Seedlings Disappearing After Planting
• Powdery Mildew
• Holes in Cantaloupe Fruit
• Insect Damage on Fruit
• Squash Bugs
• Aphids on Cantaloupe Plants
• Bland or Tasteless Fruit

Cantaloupe Fruit Not Forming

Cantaloupe plants typically produce male flowers first, with female flowers appearing later. If you notice that the female flowers are withering without developing into fruit, it might be a pollination issue. Hand-pollinating can be an effective solution.

To hand-pollinate, remove a male blossom, peel back the petals, and rub the flowers together. This transfers pollen from the inside of the male flower to the female flower. Hand pollination ensures that the cantaloupe fruit will form and develop properly.

Rotten or Soft Spots on Fruit

Blossom end rot manifests as a dark, sunken spot on the fruit that gradually spreads. This problem often stems from inconsistent soil moisture, which disrupts calcium absorption necessary for fruit development. To prevent blossom end rot, keep soil consistently moist, especially during dry spells. Learn more solutions for blossom end rot in this blog post.

Splitting Fruit

Fruit splitting is a common cantaloupe growing problem. This typically occurs when plants experience irregular or inconsistant watering, particularly after heavy rain. To mitigate this, maintain a steady watering schedule, and if a heavy rainstorm is forecasted, harvest fruits that are close to ripening to prevent splitting.

Seedlings Disappearing After Planting

Cantaloupe seeds emerge quickly in warm soil. If you’ve planted seeds and they are not visible within a few days, you may have pest issues. Cantaloupe vines are a favorite of rollie-pollies or pill bugs. If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings, sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that thrives in humid, wet conditions and can cause white, powdery spots on leaves. It’s essential to improve air circulation around your plants by growing them vertically on trellises or using cages. Regularly remove and dispose of infected leaves to reduce spore spread. Consider planting resistant varieties like Ambrosia to further reduce the risk. Learn more powdery mildew treatment options in this article.

Holes in Cantaloupe Fruit

Holes in cantaloupe fruits are a common problem, often caused by pests such as birds or rodents. To protect your crop, place the fruit in mesh bags that keep pests away. Additionally, consistently setting rat traps around your garden can help catch and control rodent populations.

Cantaloupe Growing Problems and How to Solve Them

Insect Damage on Fruit

Beetles and pill bugs can be particularly damaging to cantaloupes left on the soil. To prevent this, use melon support cradles to elevate the fruit or grow cantaloupes vertically on a trellis.

Squash Bugs

Squash bugs are notorious for attacking cantaloupes and other cucurbits. To manage these pests, practice crop rotation to disrupt their life cycle. Regularly inspect the undersides of leaves for eggs and nymphs. Removing these pests early can prevent significant damage. Learn more about how to control squash bugs in this article.

Aphids on Cantaloupe Plants

Aphids are small but can cause big problems, particularly on stressed plants. They feed on plant sap and can transmit diseases. The best defense against aphids is healthy plants. Good watering practices, enough sunlight, and healthy soil are crucial. Remove heavily infested leaves and encourage natural predators like ladybugs, which help control aphid populations. This article gives ideas for how to attract beneficial insects.

Bland or Tasteless Fruit

If your cantaloupes are bland or lack flavor, use these tips to solve this common cantaloupe growing problem:

• Rich Soil Produces Sweeter Fruit: Amend the soil with compost and a balanced fertilizer prior to planting.
• Do Not Prune Off Leaves or Shoots: The leaves produce the sugars that sweeten the fruits. 
• Select Flavorful Varieties: Choose cantaloupe varieties known for their sweetness and flavor, such as ‘Ambrosia’ or ‘Sugar Cube.’
• Reduce the Number of Fruits: Limit the number of fruits per plant to one or two to allow each fruit to absorb more energy and nutrients, enhancing sweetness and flavor.
• Control Watering: About a week before melons are ripe, cut back watering as much as possible to concentrate the fruit’s sugars. 
• Harvest at the Right Time: Pick cantaloupes when they have a sweet aroma and the stem begins to turn brown. Ripe fruit will have a full, sweet flavor.

Learn more about how to grow sweet cantaloupe in this blog post.

By staying vigilant and addressing these common cantaloupe growing problems proactively, you can enjoy a thriving cantaloupe harvest and make the most of your gardening efforts. Get more garden troubleshooting ideas in this blog post.

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Article Outline:

1. What Are Spider Mites?
2. Conditions That Favor Spider Mites
3. Identifying Spider Mite Damage
4. Preventing Spider Mites
5. Beneficial Insects That Help Control Spider Mites
6. Steps to Treat Spider Mites Organically
7. When to Treat Spider Mites and When to Remove Plants
8. Spider Mite Prevention & Organic Control Conclusion

What Are Spider Mites?

You notice something is off about your bean plants. You may see stippling on the tops of the leaves and tiny moving dots on the undersides of the leaves. There may also be what looks like webbing surrounding some of the leaves. Congratulations – you’ve just met the infamous spider mite!

Spider mites are tiny arachnids related to spiders and ticks. They are small–usually 1/20 of an inch (1mm long), and look like tiny moving dots to the naked eye. Spider mites belong to the Tetranychus genus. These mites are known for their silk webbing on infested leaves, hence the name “spider mites.” The webbing gives mites and their offspring protection from changes in the environment and their natural enemies.

These pests live in colonies on the undersides of leaves. The largest female spider mites can be identified by their oval bodies and two dark blotches on each side. They reproduce rapidly–within 1-3 weeks—especially in favorable conditions, leading to large infestations quickly. One female spider mite can lay hundreds of eggs. Unfortunately, in mild climates, they are active year-round and do not die off. 

Conditions That Favor Spider Mites

Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions, making them particularly problematic during summer. Here are some areas and conditions they prefer:

• Preferred Crops: Beans, cucumbers, lettuce, melons, peas, tomatoes, rosemary. Also common on landscape plants like cypress trees.
• Hot Weather: Spider mites reproduce quickly in high temperatures. A single generation can be completed in less than a week.
• Dusty Environments: Spider mites are often found near dusty roadways or garden margins. Dusty conditions create an ideal habitat for these pests.
• Water Stress: Plants under water stress are highly susceptible to spider mite infestations. To reduce the risk, ensure your plants are adequately watered.

Identifying Spider Mite Damage

Spider mites cause significant damage by sucking cell contents from leaves. Here’s how to identify their presence:

• Stippling: White or yellow dots or stippling on leaves are early signs of spider mite feeding.
• Color Changes: Leaves may turn yellowish, reddish, or bronze as feeding continues.
• Webbing: Heavy infestations result in large amounts of webbing covering leaves, twigs, and fruit.
• Dying Plants: Large infestations often kill the host plant. 

High populations of spider mites can weaken plants, leading to leaf drop and reduced yields. For ornamentals, spider mites primarily cause aesthetic damage but can kill annual plants if left unchecked.

Preventing Spider Mites

Effective prevention strategies can save your garden from a spider mite invasion. Here are some tips:

• Regular Monitoring: Check plants regularly, especially during hot, dry periods. If necessary, use a magnifying glass.
• Keep It Clean: Reduce dust in your garden using mulch and regular watering.
• Watering: Proper watering reduces plant stress and makes them less attractive to spider mites. Spray plants with water to dislodge mites and clean leaves.
• Humidity: Higher humidity levels can deter spider mites, especially in greenhouses or indoors. Spray off plants with water occasionally to increase the air’s moisture level.

Read this blog post for more tips for preventing pests in the garden.

Beneficial Insects That Help Control Spider Mites

Nature provides some of the best pest control agents. Certain beneficial insects can help manage spider mite populations:

• Big-eyed bugs, damsel bugs, minute pirate bugs, predatory mites, predatory thrips, and spiders are natural predators of spider mites.
• Lacewings: These insects and their larvae feed on spider mites.
• Ladybugs: Both adult ladybugs and their larvae consume spider mites.

Encouraging these beneficial insects in your garden can significantly reduce spider mite populations without resorting to chemical treatments. Large spider mite populations are more common when pesticides are frequently applied. Pesticides often kill off the many natural predators, allowing them to reproduce unchecked. 

Attracting beneficial insects can reduce harmful pests naturally. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

You may choose to introduce beneficial insects into your garden. If you do this, consider a beneficial insect subscription service from Heirloom Roses, which gets its insects from trusted insectories. These introduced insects can help bolster populations throughout the season. Do not purchase ladybugs from local nurseries. Learn why in this blog post.

Steps to Treat Spider Mites Organically

If you find spider mites in your garden, take the following steps. Be conservative in your approach and only proceed to the next more aggressive step if needed.

1. Identify and Isolate: Confirm the presence of spider mites, isolate affected plants if possible, and remove the worst-affected leaves. 
2. Water Spray: Use a knockdown water spray to dislodge mites from plants. Focus on the undersides of the leaves.
3. Insecticidal Soap and Horticultural Oil Treatment: Use treatments sparingly. To protect beneficial insects, target only affected areas.

• Add 1 Tablespoon (19 ml) of Safer Insect Killing Soap and 1 Tablespoon (19 ml) of Monterey Horticultural Oil to a 32-oz (946-ml) spray bottle filled with water.
• Spray affected areas in the morning or evening. Never spray in the middle of the day. Use a pump sprayer and apply a fine mist to all sides of the plant—there is no need to drench it.
• If temperatures are above 90°F (32°C), rinse with water afterward to avoid burning the leaves.
• Repeat application after several days to eliminate newly hatched eggs. If needed, repeat at weekly or bi-weekly intervals up to three times.
• You may want to rinse leaves off after application during hot weather to avoid leaf burn.

When to Treat Spider Mites and When to Remove Plants

Deciding whether to treat or remove infested plants depends on the severity of the infestation and the plant’s condition. Here are some guidelines:

Treat: Regular water sprays and insecticidal treatments often manage early infestations. Strong, healthy plants with minor damage are good candidates for treatment.

Remove: Severely infested plants with significant leaf damage and webbing may be beyond saving. Removing heavily infested plants can prevent the spread to other healthy plants.

Spider Mite Prevention & Organic Control Conclusion

Spider mites can be a persistent pest, but you can protect your home garden with careful monitoring and proactive measures. Regular inspections, proper watering, and encouraging beneficial insects are vital to preventing and managing spider mite infestations.

Targeted treatments using insecticidal soap and horticultural oil can be effective in challenging cases. Before deciding to treat, weigh the severity of the infestation and the plant’s overall health.

Further Reading:

• Organic Pest Control That Really Works
• Garden Hacks: 9 Simple Pest Control Tips
• Squash Bug Prevention and Organic Control

Sources:

• Colorado State Extension Fact Sheet Spider Mites 5.507, by W.S. Cranshaw and D.C. Sclar
• Pest Notes: Spider Mites UC ANR Publication 7405, L. D. Godfrey, Entomology, UC Davis, Produced by UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program University of California, Davis, CA 95616
• The Vegetable Garden Pest Handbook, by Susan Mulvihill

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Article Outline:

1. Identifying Squash Bugs in the Garden
2. How Do Squash Bugs Damage Plants?
3. Organic Methods to Control and Eliminate Squash Bugs
4. Attract Natural Predators of Squash Bugs
5. Practice Companion Planting for Squash Bug Prevention and Organic Control
6. Hand-pick all Stages of Squash Bugs Daily
7. How to Prevent Future Infestations of Squash Bugs

Identifying Squash Bugs in the Garden

Before you can tackle squash bugs, it’s essential to know what you’re up against. Here’s what to look for:

• Adults are about half an inch (1.2cm) long, winged, with a grayish-brown body and flat back covered in fine dark hairs. As a defense, they give off an unpleasant odor. 
• Nymphs (young squash bugs) are smaller, wingless, greenish-gray, and similar in shape to adults. They often cluster together.
• Egg clusters are oval-shaped and copper-colored and usually found on the undersides of leaves. 

How Do Squash Bugs Damage Plants?

Adults and nymphs use their piercing mouth parts to suck plant juices from cucurbit crops, which include summer squash, winter squash, cucumbers, gourds, and melons. Severely affected plants’ leaves and shoots turn black, die back, and fail to produce fruit.  

Organic Methods to Control and Eliminate Squash Bugs

Unfortunately, squash bugs are worthy opponents and usually require multiple methods to control them. If you do nothing, squash bugs multiply rapidly and are difficult to eradicate. Combining the following practices can be effective for squash bug prevention and organic control.

Attract Natural Predators of Squash Bugs

The tachinid fly is a natural predator of squash bugs and can be helpful in squash bug prevention and organic control. Plant a wide variety of nectar and food options to encourage tachinid flies to reside in your garden. Good plant choices to attract tachinid flies include rudbeckia, chamomile, cilantro, cosmos, dill, feverfew, borage, alyssum, and oregano.¹ (Click on the plant name to read articles with planting information for each crop.)

This article explains more about how to attract beneficial insects to your garden.

Unfortunately, unlike other pests, squash bugs are not easily controlled by beneficial insects alone. Once spotted in the garden, their control requires some work on our part. 

Practice Companion Planting for Squash Bug Prevention and Organic Control

Attracting beneficial insects can make companion planting even more effective and reduce harmful pests. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Plant nasturtiums among your squash plants to help with squash bug prevention and organic control. An Iowa State University study found that planting nasturtiums among summer squash significantly decreased their numbers.² Learn how to grow nasturtiums in this blog post.

Blue Hubbard squash is especially appealing to squash bugs. Use this fact to your advantage and plant it as a trap crop.

To do this effectively, you must plant blue Hubbard squash three or four weeks before your desired varieties. Plant blue Hubbard several feet (1-2 m) away from other varieties on the outskirts of your vegetable garden.³ Click here for blue Hubbard squash seeds. Learn more about how to grow winter squash in this blog post.

Hand-pick all Stages of Squash Bugs Daily

While it may not be the most glamorous method, hand-picking is very effective. Early detection is crucial. Check your plants daily for all stages of squash bugs; if spotted, keep a bucket of soapy water near your plant. Check the plants often and dispose of the eggs, bugs, and nymphs in the soapy water. They are a little slower in the morning–that’s when I like to do my daily check. 

Use Traps

Trapping can be an effective organic control method for squash bugs. To do this, lay out a wooden board in your garden. Squash bugs will congregate underneath them overnight. In the morning, collect and dispose of the squash bugs.

Remove Plants if Numbers Climb

If your infestation is out of control, remove and destroy affected plants to prevent the bugs from spreading. Do not add to compost. Keep that bucket of soapy water handy, and check the area around the removed plant and under the mulch. I like to use the hose to soak out any remaining stragglers. 

How to Prevent Future Infestations of Squash Bugs

Squash bugs don’t have to spell disaster for your garden. With these organic methods and preventative measures, you can keep your plants healthy and thriving. Do you have any tips or success stories? I’d love to hear them. 

Sources and Further Reading About Organic Control and Prevention of Squash Bugs:

Reference

1. Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, A Natural Approach to Pest Control, Jessica Walliser.
2. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.
3. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

Further Reading

• The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control, A Rodale Organic Gardening Book. Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley, Barbara W. Ellis, and Deborah L. Martin.
• Prevent Garden Pests Organically
• Garden Hacks: 9 Simple Pest Control Tips
• Organic Pest Control That Really Works

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Article Outline:

1. What does blossom end rot look like?
2. What is blossom end rot?
3. Does this mean my plants need more calcium? 
4. What are the common causes of blossom end rot? 
5. Can you fix blossom end rot? 
6. How to avoid blossom end rot

What does blossom end rot look like? 

The easiest way to identify blossom end rot is to look for a dark, sunken, or decayed spot on the bottom of the fruit. But, the first sign of blossom end rot is usually a small water-soaked spot at the blossom end of the fruit. As the condition progresses, it will grow, eventually turning brown or black and sunken. The inside of the fruit also decays.

Some fruits may have leathery spots on the top of the fruit. This is usually sunscald or sun damage, not blossom end rot.

Summer squash may not develop properly. Withering fruit is usually caused by poor pollination, but summer squash can also develop blossom end rot.

What is blossom end rot? 

Blossom end rot is a common disorder that affects tomatoes, peppers, squash, and other fruits and vegetables. It occurs due to a calcium deficiency in the tomato’s tissue, which leads to poor cell wall development and dark spots on the fruit. 

The plant absorbs calcium through its roots, but it tends to accumulate in certain parts of the plant. As a result, the rot can develop even if there is plenty of calcium present. Developing tomatoes require a consistent supply of calcium for healthy fruit development. 

Does this mean my plants need more calcium? 

The answer is yes, but you may not need to add it. The soil often contains plenty of calcium, but the plant can’t access it. 

What are the common causes of blossom end rot? 

• Inconsistent watering: Fluctuating soil moisture levels disrupt the plant’s ability to absorb calcium effectively. Hot, dry weather can cause water stress, reducing the plant’s ability to take up calcium. Too much water (or rain) may wash the available calcium from the root zone.
• Young plants: Blossom end rot is common on the season’s first fruits. When plants are young, and their root systems are still developing, they may struggle to absorb sufficient calcium from the soil.
• Too much nitrogen: The rapid growth caused by overfertilization may direct available water and nutrients to the leaves and starve the fruit. 
•  Damage to the roots: Cultivating too close to the roots or fertilizer burn can prevent calcium uptake. 

Can you fix blossom end rot? 

While it’s true that blossom end rot on individual fruits can’t be “undone,” There is hope. Once you notice blossom end rot on the fruit, remove and discard the fruit. The rot will not spread to other fruits. Do not use fungicides or pesticides; they will have no effect.

Do your best to identify the likely cause of the problem. If possible, take steps to remedy the situation. Employing the prevention strategies listed below can significantly reduce the chances of subsequent fruit suffering the same fate. 

How to avoid blossom end rot

• Maintain even moisture. Moisture stress is the most common cause of blossom end rot. To keep the soil evenly hydrated, consider using drip irrigation, which delivers water directly to the plant’s roots, and apply a thick layer of organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, to help regulate moisture and prevent evaporation. 
• Avoid digging around plants’ roots. Root damage limits the plant’s water uptake ability, especially when it’s hot and dry. Read the complete guide to pruning peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants after winter here.
• Maintain proper pH and nutrient levels. A soil pH of 6.5-6.8 is ideal for tomatoes. Adequate levels of calcium, phosphorus, and nitrogen are also necessary. Testing and amending before planting helps ensure healthy tomatoes. Here’s the soil test kit I use on Amazon.
• Ensure good drainage. Well-draining soil prevents salt-build up that can prevent nutrient uptake. 
• Choose resistant varieties. Some tomatoes, like Celebrity and Mountain Pride, are less vulnerable to this condition. When selecting tomato varieties, look for those labeled ‘blossom end rot resistant’ or ‘BER resistant. ‘ These varieties have been bred to be less susceptible to blossom end rot. 

As a gardener, your role in identifying, treating, and preventing blossom end rot is crucial. By being vigilant for early signs of this disorder and making necessary changes, you can prevent blossom end rot from ruining your harvests. Your actions can make a significant difference in maintaining the health of your plants. 

Read more about identifying and solving common garden problems in this blog post.

More Tomato Growing Resources:

• How to Grow Tomatoes in Arizona: 10 Tips for Success
• How to Plant Tomatoes: A Step-by-Step Guide
• How to Revive and Prune Over-Summered Tomatoes in Arizona
• Turning Green Tomatoes Red: 4 Ways to Ripen Green Tomatoes
• Tomatoes for the Desert: Best Varieties for Arizona

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Fortunately, several methods are available to help control and prevent this fungal disease from spreading in your garden. All gardeners should be aware of the signs of powdery mildew and how to treat it quickly and effectively.

What is powdery mildew?

When trying to prevent or control powdery mildew, start by understanding what it is and where it comes from. Powdery mildew is one of the most easily recognizable and widespread fungi.

It first appears as a whitish-gray powdery coating on tops or undersides of leaves. Left untreated, small black dots appear, and they produce spores. Powdery mildew quickly spreads by spores on wind or physical contact. 

The disease weakens the plant and stunts its growth. As it progresses, the leaves brown and shrivel. Powdery mildew causes fruits to ripen prematurely and have poor flavor and texture. If not treated promptly, it can lead to leaf drop or plant death.

Powdery mildew can affect a surprising number of crops—even carrots. Learn how to identify and manage it in Powdery Mildew on Carrots: Causes and Solutions.

What does powdery mildew look like?

Learn what powdery mildew looks like so you can begin to combat it when it first appears. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that can infect many plants, including vegetables. It appears as white powder-like spots on the leaves and other parts of the plant.

• Roses: New flower buds are covered in white powder. Powdery white or gray coating on the leaves and stems. The infected leaves may curl or become distorted, and the plant may produce fewer blooms.
• Raspberries: Undersides and tips of leaves become deformed.
• Cantaloupe: Leaves and stems turn brown; poor fruit production.
• Peas: White or grayish coating on the leaves can then spread to the stems and pods. The entire plant may be covered in a powdery coating in severe cases.
• Zinnias: Mildew covers leaves, buds, and stems. Infected plants may produce fewer blooms or stop blooming altogether.
• Squash: White or grayish patches on the leaves, which can then spread to the stems, fruit, and flowers. Infected foliage may turn yellow or brown and fall off the plant. (Tip: Know what you are growing. Many squash varieties have variegated leaves that may look like powdery mildew.)
• Apples: White patches on the leaves, fruit, and stems.
• Cucumbers: Powdery mildew appears as white or grayish spots on the leaves, stems, and fruit. As the infection progresses, the spots may merge and cover larger areas of the plant.
• Phlox: Powdery mildew appears as white or grayish spots on the leaves and stems. Infected foliage may turn yellow or brown and fall off the plant.
• Lilacs: Powdery mildew appears as a white or grayish powder on the leaves, which can then spread to the stems and flowers. The infected foliage may become distorted or stunted.
• Grapes: White or grayish-white powder or coating on the leaves, stems, flowers, and fruit. The infected leaves may become distorted, yellow, or fall off the plant. If left untreated, powdery mildew can reduce grape yields and quality.

Do these zucchini leaves have powdery mildew?

No. Some squash varieties have variegated leaves that, at first glance, may look like powdery mildew. However, it’s merely a color variation. Look closely at the leaves, and you’ll be able to distinguish between the two. The color variation will be consistent on all the leaves, but powdery mildew will appear in patches.

Does powdery mildew rub off?

Yes, powdery mildew can rub off from plant leaves when touched with a cloth or fingers. It is a white or gray substance that can look like dirt or dust when it first appears. If you suspect powdery mildew, it’s important to take action since it can spread quickly throughout your plant.

7 Tips for How to Prevent and Treat Powdery Mildew

1. Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties

To mitigate powdery mildew, opt for disease-resistant varieties when planting crops vulnerable to this fungal disease. Such susceptible crops include cantaloupe, zinnias, roses, squash, and peas.

By selecting resistant strains, you can safeguard your plants and minimize the impact of powdery mildew. Powdery mildew resistance is marked on seed packages with the designation PMR. Be sure to rotate crops each year, as the same crop planted in the same spot can lead to soil-borne disease problems.

2. Allow good air circulation

An abundance of foliage or vines left sprawling on the ground invites pests and diseases. Proper air circulation helps prevent fungal diseases. Prune and trellis plants to allow as much air and sunlight as possible to reach them.

3. Water plants correctly

Space your plants with enough room for air circulation so that the leaves have a chance to dry out after rain or watering. Also, avoid wetting the foliage when you water, and water in the morning rather than late afternoon or evening.

• Water in the morning. Evening watering creates a cool, damp climate that promotes powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
• Using drip irrigation (rather than overhead) puts the water on the soil (where it is needed) rather than on the leaves. 
• Do not over-water. Let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings. Damp soil promotes fungal diseases. 
• For more information, read this article about correct watering. 

4. Keep plant debris cleaned up to prevent powdery mildew

Leaves and trimmings from plants can harbor fungal spores that cause powdery mildew.

Rake up and remove debris from around plants. Prune away affected branches to minimize spread. Good air circulation around the plants also helps reduce mildew growth.

5. Remove leaves affected with powdery mildew

An effective method for preventing further powdery mildew is to remove and destroy affected leaves as you see them before spores form. Sanitize hands, gloves, and tools that come in contact with the diseased leaves. This will help to prevent the spread of the infection.

6. After removing leaves, treat to prevent further outbreaks

The first important step is to remove the affected leaves before treating the rest of the plant. Any diseased plant parts should be removed and discarded away from other plants.

Choose one (or more) of the following methods. To prevent further infections, continue treatment while warm or humid conditions persist. These options can prevent further outbreaks from unseen spores but may not cure powdery mildew already on the plant.

Option 1: Use a Milk Solution

For small outbreaks during the spring or fall (not summer), treat powdery mildew with a milk solution every 7-10 days. The protein in milk may create an antiseptic effect when exposed to sunlight. Use a 40% milk to 60% water solution. Spray on the leaves of affected and nearby plants, lightly coating all surfaces while the sun shines for the best effect. 

Option 2: Use a Potassium Bicarbonate and Castile Soap Solution

This is my go-to method and works very well. Mix 15 ml (1 tablespoon) of potassium bicarbonate powder and 15 ml (1 tablespoon) of liquid castile soap in 3.8 liters (1 gallon) of water and spray all parts of the plant well. To treat an outbreak, spray plants every 7 days. Apply after the sun goes down and spray the leaves off afterward to prevent leaf burn.

Why spray off afterward? The solutions kill the fungus spores on contact so it is not necessary for them to remain on the plant. However, the solution will damage the leaves if they are in the sun. Spraying off the solution prevents sun damage to the leaves.

7. If a plant becomes overwhelmed, consider removing the entire plant

If all methods fail and you haven’t been able to prevent or treat powdery mildew successfully, consider removing the entire plant. 

• An unhealthy plant is more susceptible to pests and other diseases. 
• A diseased plant can easily spread powdery mildew to other plants in the garden. 

Remove the entire plant, and do not compost it. Plant another fruit or vegetable in that spot that isn’t as susceptible to powdery mildew. 

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When beneficial insects, predators, and parasitoids choose to live and reproduce in your garden, they are ready to spring into action when pest populations climb. The best part? A diverse landscape is also beautiful. You’ll love it, too!  

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Supporting pollinators in the desert takes the right plants and placement. Find out what works in Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden.

Using Annual Plants to Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for Natural Pest Control

Incorporating annual plants that attract beneficial insects into your garden is a simple way to help create a balanced ecosystem. Annual plants are relatively easy to grow; many start easily from seed and are relatively inexpensive compared to perennial plants.

Annual Plants for Attracting Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for Natural Pest Control

This annual plant list is a great starting point for selecting plants to create a haven for beneficial insects and pollinators.

• Alyssum – Check out my Growing Guide for Alyssum.
• Coreopsis
• Aster
• Anise
• Bee Balm
• Buckwheat
• Chamomile– Discover how to grow chamomile in my Growing Guide for Chamomile.
• Clover
• Coneflower
• Coreopsis
• Cosmos
• Daisy (Regular and Shasta) – Check out my Growing Guide for Shasta Daisies.
• Dill– Discover how to grow dill in my Growing Guide for Dill.
• Feverfew
• Goldenrod
• Lovage
• Mint – Find growing tips in my Mint Growing Guide.
• Oregano – Learn how to grow oregano in my Oregano Growing Guide.
• Ratibida
• Rudbeckia– Discover how to grow rudbeckia in my Growing Guide for Rudbeckia.
• Sunflowers – Check out my Growing Guide for Sunflowers.
• Verbena – Find growing tips in my Vebena Growing Guide.
• Yarrow – Discover how to grow Yarrow in my Growing Guide for Yarrow.

Download the printable “Annuals for Natural Pest Control” at the top of this post.

Incorporating plants from this annual plant list that attract beneficial insects and pollinators will help promote a beautiful, healthy, diverse ecosystem in your garden.

Are you growing any of these plants, or did I miss one of your favorites? Leave a comment and let me know.

References and Further Reading

1. “Native Plants for Pollinators & Beneficial Insects: Southwest – Sonoran Desert“
2. Desert Museum Plant List
3. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

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Beneficial insects are organic gardeners’ best friends, helping to maintain a healthy balance in the garden ecosystem. This blog post will help you identify these insects, understand their role in pest control, and provide tips for encouraging beneficial insects in your garden.

A Natural Approach to Pest Control: Identify the Bugs in Your Garden

The first step in utilizing beneficial insects and bugs as organic pest control is learning to identify the good bugs from the bad. In gardening, insects are a natural part of the ecosystem. While some can harm your garden, many are beneficial and vital to maintaining a healthy balance.

When you notice an insect, take time to identify it. Believe it or not, ninety-nine percent of insects are beneficial or benign, and only one percent are harmful–it can feel like more than that sometimes!¹

Technology has made identifying insects much easier. You can now use the camera on your iPhone or Android phone to take a picture of the insect and use Visual Lookup or Google Lens feature to identify it. There are also user-friendly apps such as Seek and Bug ID that can be used for this purpose. Additionally, image searches on Google can help identify pests and insects that you come across. 

The Importance of Daily Observation

Monitoring your garden daily is crucial, especially during peak pest seasons. Regular observation can help you catch pest problems early on. You may not intervene, but you will know what is happening. 

Daily monitoring also provides an excellent opportunity to observe the natural cycles of insects in your garden. Understanding the lifecycle of beneficial insects and their patterns in your garden will help you encourage their presence.

Keep a garden journal or take pictures of insects throughout the year so you can look back and identify the patterns that emerge in your garden’s ecosystem.

The Role of Beneficial Insects in Natural Pest Control

Beneficial insects, like assassin bugs, lacewings, and syrphid flies, play a significant role in maintaining balance in the garden. These insects act as organic pest controllers, feeding on various pests and their eggs. 

Assassin bugs help control nearly any insect, including hornworms, beetles, aphids, and caterpillars.¹

Lacewings help manage aphids, beetle larvae, mealybugs, spider mites, caterpillars, whiteflies, and more.¹

Praying mantis can help with moths, crickets, grasshoppers, flies, beetles, and caterpillars.¹

Spiders help manage insect eggs, beetles, aphids, cutworms, fire ants, bugs, mites, caterpillars, and more.¹

Syrphid flies help with aphids, young cabbage worms, thrips, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, and many small caterpillars.¹

Tachinid flies can help with caterpillars, beetles, cutworms, bugs, larvae, squash bugs, and more.¹

Parasitoid wasps manage aphids, beetle larvae, cabbage worms, beetles, cutworms, leafminers, mealybugs, squash vine borers, hornworms, flies, bugs, whiteflies, and many more.¹

In this guide, discover the benefits of insect hotels and learn how to effectively use them in your garden to attract beneficial bees and lacewings.

Don’t Interfere in the Predator-Prey Cycle

The predator-prey cycle is at the heart of natural pest control. In this cycle, the prey (pests) attract predators (beneficial insects) by providing them with food. The predators, in turn, keep the pest populations in check, preventing damage to your garden.

For instance, ladybugs are attracted to gardens with a high aphid population, which they feed on. By preying on the aphids, ladybugs help control their population. Similarly, lacewings are attracted to aphid colonies, which they feed on, thus reducing the aphid population. Learn more about ladybugs in this blog post.

In this cycle, pest and predator populations fluctuate but are never zero. We may begin noticing pests just as their numbers peak, which is the level that will lure beneficial insects. If we insert ourselves and eliminate the pests, it disrupts the cycle. Instead, be patient and give the beneficial insects time. They will come!¹

This cycle underscores the importance of biodiversity in the garden. A diverse range of plants provides various food sources for insects and offers a variety of habitats for them to live in. This, in turn, encourages the presence of a diverse range of insects, including the beneficial ones that help with pest control.

Encouraging Beneficial Insects in Your Garden

There are several ways you can encourage beneficial insects in your garden. First, you can provide them with the food they love. Planting various herbs and flowers that bloom at different times can attract and support beneficial insect populations. Learn more about which plants will help attract beneficials in this blog post.

Attracting the right insects can make support pollinators and reduce harmful insects naturally. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Second, avoid using pesticides, even organic ones. While pesticides may kill harmful insects, they also harm the beneficial ones, disrupting the ecosystem’s delicate balance. Pesticides can also lead to the development of pesticide resistance in pests, creating a new set of problems.¹

Additionally, you may choose to introduce beneficial insects into your garden. If you do this, consider a beneficial insect subscription service from Heirloom Roses, which gets its insects from trusted insectories. These introduced insects can help bolster populations throughout the season. Do not purchase ladybugs from local nurseries. Learn why in this blog post.

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

In conclusion, understanding the role of beneficial insects in pest control and taking steps to encourage their presence can lead to a more balanced and sustainable garden. By avoiding the use of pesticides and creating a diverse, insect-friendly environment, you can enjoy a thriving garden without the need for harmful chemicals.

Reference

1. Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, A Natural Approach to Pest Control, Jessica Walliser.

Further Reading

Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control, A Rodale Organic Gardening Book. Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley, Barbara W. Ellis, and Deborah L. Martin.

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