In this post, learn why wilting happens, how to know if your plant actually needs water, and how to avoid overwatering. Understanding the science behind plant stress in heat will help you water wisely and keep your garden thriving, even during extreme temperatures.

What We’ll Cover

• What causes plants to wilt in summer heat
• How to know if your plant needs water
• My summer routine in the low desert
• Signs of drought stress vs. heat stress
• Practical tips for watering in hot climates
• Understanding transpiration
• What if plants don’t recover?
• FAQ about wilting plants in hot weather
• More watering resources

Why Plants Wilt in the Heat

Wilting is a natural survival response to intense heat. When temperatures rise, plants lose water through a process called transpiration, where moisture moves from the roots to the leaves and evaporates into the air.

To slow this water loss, plants close their stomata, the tiny openings on the underside of leaves. As the stomata close, the plant stops losing water but also stops taking in carbon dioxide, which slows photosynthesis. The result? Leaves droop and wilt.

This midday wilting is often temporary and not a cause for alarm.

If the soil is moist and the plant perks back up by evening or the following morning, wilting was likely caused by heat stress, not a lack of water.

How to Tell If Your Plant Needs Water

Checking the soil is the best way to decide if your plants need water. Don’t rely on appearances alone.

• Stick your finger 2–3 inches into the soil: If it feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water. Use a water meter if desired. This is the one I use.
• Check in the morning or evening: Persistent wilting outside of the hottest part of the day could be a sign of drought stress.
• Avoid watering just because it’s hot: More water is not always better and can lead to root rot or fungus issues.

My Summer Routine in the Low Desert

In the hottest months here in the low desert, I’ve learned to expect a garden full of wilted plants around during the heat of the day. What used to be alarming is now just part of summer gardening.

I walk through the garden in the morning when it’s cooler, checking that each plant is well-watered and protected for the day ahead. Watching them bounce back in the evening is a reassuring reminder that they’re doing what they’re designed to do.

This habit has saved me from overwatering and helps me stay connected to the daily rhythm of the garden. Learn more in Summer Gardening in Arizona.

Drought Stress vs. Heat Stress: What’s the Difference?

Drought Stress

• Wilting in the morning or evening
• Leaves may appear dull, crispy, or curled
• Soil is dry several inches down
• The plant does not perk up at night

Heat Stress / Transpiration

• Wilting occurs midday only
• Leaves recover in the evening
• Soil remains moist
• No long-term damage if consistent watering continues

Best Watering Practices in Hot Weather

Water early in the morning

• Reduces evaporation
• Prepares plants for the heat

Water deeply and less frequently

• Encourages deep root growth
• Avoids shallow surface roots that dry out quickly

Use mulch

• Apply 2–4 inches of organic mulch to hold in moisture and protect roots

Use smart watering systems

• Raised beds: Install watering grids or drip lines
  Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens
• Containers: Try ollas for slow, deep watering
  The Best Way to Water Outdoor Potted Plants

Understanding Transpiration and Stomata (A Closer Look)

• Transpiration helps cool plants and move nutrients from roots to leaves.
• In high heat, plants close their stomata to prevent excess moisture loss.
• Closed stomata slow growth and cause drooping, but help the plant survive.

Knowing this process can help you stay calm when you see wilted leaves in the afternoon. Don’t water unless the soil truly needs it.

What If Plants Don’t Recover?

Sometimes, during a heatwave, the stress is just too much. Even well-watered plants may wilt and never bounce back. This isn’t always a sign of underwatering; plants can also suffer from heat stress, especially during long stretches of extreme temperatures.

When the heat becomes intense, plants may:

• Drop blossoms or fruit
• Stop growing entirely
• Show scorched, sunburned leaves
• Permanently wilt despite moist soil

At this point, the damage may be too severe for the plant to recover fully. It’s frustrating, but it’s also a reality of gardening in hot climates.

What to do:
If the plant is truly done, don’t be afraid to remove it and try again when conditions improve. Many summer crops, like squash or beans, can be replanted in late summer for a second harvest window once temperatures start to drop slightly. Giving up on a stressed plant may be better than pouring in resources and water with little reward.

Want more help gardening through extreme heat? See my post: Surviving a Heatwave: Gardening in High Heat

Frequently Asked Questions

More Watering Resources

• How to Water Your Garden
• Water Conservation in Desert Gardening
• How to Water Your Garden with Flood Irrigation

The post When to Water Plants in Hot Weather: What Wilting Means appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

But what should you do next? Should you prune it back, feed it, or start over with a new plant? This guide will help you evaluate your tomato plants and decide the best course of action for a productive fall season.

What We Will Cover:

• Step 1: Evaluate Your Tomato Plants
• Step 2: Understand What Happens to Tomatoes During Summer
• Step 3: Know When It’s Time to Act
• Step 4: Prune Based on the Plant’s Condition
• Step 5: Feed and Refresh the Soil
• Step 6: Watch and Adjust
• Recap

Step 1: Evaluate Your Tomato Plants

Before you prune or feed, take a close look at your tomato plants and decide whether they’re worth saving or better off replaced.

Start by asking:

1. Is there new, healthy growth coming from the base or lower branches?

• Yes: This is a good sign. The plant may have gone dormant during summer but is coming back with monsoon moisture. It’s likely worth keeping.
• No: If there’s no new growth, the plant may be too far gone.

2. Are the upper branches just sun-damaged or leggy, but the plant otherwise looks alive?

• Yes: You can likely save it with some light pruning and care.
• No: Move on to the next questions.

3. Is the plant diseased, severely stressed, or covered in pests?

• Yes: It’s best to remove the plant and start fresh with a new transplant in a new location. Don’t compost the removed plant material—diseased or infested tomato plants can carry problems into the next season.
• No: Keep evaluating.

4. Are most branches completely dried out, dead, or not producing?

• Yes: It’s probably better to remove and replant.
• No: If there’s a mix of healthy and struggling growth, light pruning and support may help the plant rebound.

Bottom line: If the plant shows healthy new growth, isn’t infested or diseased, and still has some productive potential, it may be worth reviving. Otherwise, it’s better to remove it and replant.

Use this guide to choose the best tomato varieties for Arizona.
Then follow this guide to plant tomatoes the right way.

Step 2: Understand What Happens to Tomatoes During Summer

In the heat of summer, especially in low desert areas like Phoenix, tomato plants often go dormant. You may notice:

• Very little new growth
• Blossoms that don’t set fruit
• Small, curled leaves
• Sunscald on existing fruit

But don’t give up, once slightly cooler temperatures arrive, you may see signs of life. This is the window when over-summered tomatoes can bounce back and produce again.

Step 3: Know When It’s Time to Act

Timing matters.

Tomatoes generally won’t set fruit if temperatures are too high, especially if nighttime lows stay above 80°F (27°C). Even if the daytime highs are below 105°F (40°C), it’s the nighttime temperatures in the 70s that signal to the plant it’s safe to begin setting fruit again.

If you’ve reached that point (and your plant is showing signs of life), it might be worth investing time into reviving it.

Tip: Shade, mulch, and microclimates can help protect plants when temperatures are borderline.

Step 4: Prune Based on the Plant’s Condition

Once you’ve decided your tomato plant is worth saving, the next step is to prune with purpose—but not too aggressively, especially in the heat.

If your plant has healthy new growth near the base or along the stems:

You may not need to do much. Focus on light shaping:

• Remove any sun-damaged, yellowing, or crispy leaves.
• Snip off any branches above the new growth that are no longer productive. This helps direct energy to the healthy parts of the plant.
• If the plant is leggy or flopping over, use this time to gently guide it back into a supported, upright shape.

Tip: Always use clean pruners, and prune in the early morning to reduce stress on the plant.

If your plant is overgrown, has a lot of dead branches, or looks wild and unproductive:

Take a more gradual approach:

• Start by pruning just one-third of the plant at a time.
• Focus on removing clearly dead or diseased branches first.
• Give the plant a few days to respond before making further cuts.
• Continue pruning over the course of 1 to 2 weeks, allowing the plant to adjust while temperatures are still high.

Cutting too much at once can shock the plant, especially in hot weather. A slow approach gives it the best chance to bounce back.

For more pruning tips after winter stress or seasonal changes, check out this guide.

Step 5: Feed and Refresh the Soil

After pruning, it’s time to rebuild strength in the soil and the plant.

1. Pull back any mulch
2. Add a layer of compost and worm castings
3. Apply a light dose of a balanced organic fertilizer (if needed)
4. Supplement with a liquid feed like Nutrient+ to speed recovery
5. Water deeply and consistently

Nutrient+ can effectively support tomatoes during this recovery period. It’s made from emulsified black soldier fly larvae and contains a blend of nutrients and natural biostimulants that help plants recover from heat stress, pruning, and even broken branches. Purchase it in person at Arizona Worm Farm or online here.

To use Nutrient+: Mix 3 cups of Nutrient+ with water to fill a 1-gallon container, and apply directly to the soil around the base of each plant. Use weekly if there are signs of stress. Monthly after that.

Why I like using Nutrient+:
– Feeds the plant with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace nutrients
– Improves soil health and encourages new growth and flowering
– Helps plants bounce back from heat, sunburn, or damage
– Sustainable and made from food waste, it’s a great alternative to fish-based fertilizers

It is especially helpful for over-summered tomatoes (or any stressed plant) that need a boost as they begin to grow again.

Learn more about how to grow tomatoes successfully in Arizona.

Step 6: Watch and Adjust

Not every plant will recover the same way. Some may rebound quickly and begin setting fruit again in just a few weeks. Others may limp along and not be worth the effort.

Pay attention. If the plant continues to show new growth and looks healthy, keep caring for it. If it starts declining or shows signs of disease, it’s okay to remove it and replant.

Experience is a great teacher. As you watch how your tomatoes respond to pruning, feeding, and care, you’ll gain confidence in what to do next time.

Quick Recap:

– Only revive plants with healthy new growth and no major pest or disease issues.
– Prune gradually, no more than one-third at a time while it’s still hot.
– Remove dead or sun-damaged growth, especially above new growth.
– Use compost, worm castings, and a balanced fertilizer to refresh the soil.
– Feed with Nutrient+ to speed recovery and support fruiting.
– Wait until nighttime temps are in the 70s before expecting new fruit to set.
– Don’t compost removed tomato plants or prunings.
– When in doubt, it’s okay to start fresh with a healthy transplant in a new spot.

Have Questions?

Leave a comment below. I’d love to hear how your over-summered tomatoes are doing.

The post How to Revive and Prune Over-Summered Tomatoes in Arizona appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What We Will Cover:

• Benefits of Vegetable Gardening in Arizona
• Challenges of Vegetable Gardening in Arizona
• 7 Principles for Success
  • Choose the best location for your garden
  • Use the best type of soil to plant vegetables in Arizona
  • Plant vegetables at the right time in Arizona
  • Select the appropriate varieties of vegetables when gardening in Arizona
  • Take advantage of microclimates in your yard
  • Water your Arizona vegetable garden correctly
  • Mulch garden each season (especially in the summer)
• Vegetable Gardening in Arizona FAQ

Growing a successful vegetable garden in Arizona is certainly possible. However, it is important to understand that Arizona has a unique climate for gardening with distinct benefits and challenges.

Some of the benefits of vegetable gardening in Arizona:

• Abundant citrus – only 2 other states (Florida and California) grow citrus commercially. 
• Ability to garden outdoors year-round. 
• Abundant sunshine – necessary for all living things.

A few of the challenges of vegetable gardening in Arizona:

• Extreme heat. A few vegetables (okra, Malabar spinach, Armenian cucumbers) tolerate the heat and continue producing. Some die, and others go dormant, only to take off again when the humidity sets in in late July or August. 
• Low humidity. Many desert-adapted plants such as cactus, succulents, and plants with waxy leaves are adapted to less humidity. However, most vegetables and garden plants need more moisture in the air to grow well in the low desert of Arizona. 
• Native clay soil is great for desert-adapted plants and contains many minerals. However, it is alkaline and low in organic matter. Most garden plants prefer slightly acidic soil and need the added nutrients of organic matter. 
• Caliche causes several problems including poor drainage.

7 principles for successful vegetable gardening in Arizona

Growing a successful vegetable garden in Arizona is possible when you understand these 7 principles.

If you are just getting started with gardening, this beginner’s guide is a great place to begin. It pulls together my most helpful resources for new gardeners and walks you through the first steps toward a thriving garden.

1. Choose the best location for your garden

Vegetable gardens need at least 6 hours of sun to grow and thrive. We have an abundance of sun, but the type of sunlight we get varies.

• Morning sun is ideal for a vegetable garden; its rays are strong and cool. The harsh afternoon sun is harder on gardens in the summer.
• Take a look around your yard at sunrise and notice where morning light first hits your garden, and then if you can, plant there! 
• If your garden area gets afternoon sun, you will probably need to provide some shade for certain plants during the summer. 
• Check sun exposure using Sun Seeker app (or similar). This allows you to see the amount of sunlight each area receives. 
• Not sure how much sun your veggies need? Check out this guide on Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun) to help your garden thrive.
• There should also be a water source nearby or within a hose distance.

Adding raised beds to create your garden? This article shares 10 tips for designing raised bed gardens.

2. Use the best type of soil to plant vegetables in Arizona

It is possible to grow vegetables in the native soil; however, most native soil is best adapted to growing native plants, not garden vegetables. 

Because Arizona’s growing seasons are shorter, we ask a lot of the vegetables we grow – they need to sprout, grow, and produce during a short amount of time. 

For the best chance of success, it’s important to give plants what they need to thrive in desert conditions. This blog post shares more information about the best soil for raised beds. 

Continue adding compost and organic matter each season and the soil in your raised beds will improve each year. This blog post shares more information about how to compost.

3. Plant vegetables at the right time in Arizona

Gardening in Arizona is different, but not impossible. We have different seasons than most. Zone maps on the back of seed packets and other zone maps don’t usually work here. Instead of one long growing season, we have 3 shorter planting seasons: 

1. Cool-season crops grow from around September to March; 
2. Warm-season crops grow from about February through May; and 
3. Monsoon planting begins with the increased rain and humidity of July or August. 

Use a research-based planting guide designed for the low desert to take the guesswork out of when to plant during each of these different seasons. Planting the right crop at the right time will increase the chance of success.

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

4. Select the appropriate varieties of vegetables when gardening in Arizona

• Choose short-season crops. When you have a choice between two crops, and one has shorter “days to harvest,” go with the shorter one. The low desert of Arizona has several growing seasons, but the seasons are shorter, and crops have less time to produce. Smaller varieties of tomatoes and melons often outperform their larger counterparts. 
• Choose plants adapted to our growing conditions in Arizona.  Native Seeds Search offers arid-adapted seed varieties that tolerate the heat and drought of an Arizona summer better than varieties better suited to other regions. I grow Chimayo melons and Hopi yellow watermelons from Native Seeds Search each year. 

Not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index covers everything from vegetables and herbs to flowers and fruits—organized A–Z for easy browsing. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

5. Take advantage of microclimates in your yard

Some parts of the yard will be warmer or cooler than others. Use those areas to your advantage by growing plants whose requirements match up to the specific microclimate available. 

Notice in your yard which areas receive the most sun and shade during different seasons of the year. Learn the sun requirements and heat tolerance of different plants. Consider adding shade parts of the garden that need it during the hottest times of the year. Take advantage of the shade provided by larger plants to interplant different crops.

Wondering if your garden really needs shade? In Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer, I share how shade protects plants, conserves water, and extends your growing season.

This blog post shares more information about how to add shade to your garden.

6. Water your Arizona vegetable garden correctly

Vegetables and fruits do not produce well if they are stressed. Problems in the garden can often be traced back to watering – not enough, too much, or inconsistent water. Plants become stressed and are more prone to diseases and insects. 

General principles for watering your vegetable garden in Arizona include: 

• Spend time in your garden each day. You will notice the watering needs of your plants and be alerted to issues with your watering system.
• Pay attention to the weather – Plants require more water when it is dry, windy, and in the summer heat. During the summer in hot areas like Arizona, raised-bed gardens often need watering every day. Other times of the year, the raised beds may only need to be watered 1-2 times per week. Adjust the frequency of the timer for seasonal conditions.
• Water deep enough to moisten the plant’s entire root system each time you water. Adjust the frequency of watering, not the duration of watering. 
• Water in the morning. Wilted leaves at midday don’t necessarily mean a plant needs water; always test soil a couple of inches deep to see if soil is dry before giving droopy plants more water. They will probably recover once the sun goes down.
• Water the soil – not the leaves of plants. This saves water as well as prevents many plant diseases. 

Want to learn more about watering? This article shares more information about the best way to water raised-bed gardens.

7. Mulch garden each season (especially in the summer)

Add a 3-inch layer of organic mulch on top of the soil around your vegetables. Mulching helps an Arizona vegetable garden in several ways:

• Mulching helps prevent weeds which can harbor pests and diseases, and compete for limited resources of nutrients, light, and water.
• A thick layer of mulch helps protect roots from extremes in temperatures.
• Mulching helps preserve moisture. 

Read this article to learn more about how to mulch your garden.

Vegetable gardening in Arizona comes with unique challenges, but you don’t have to figure it out alone. My Desert Gardening page brings together all my Arizona vegetable gardening resources—from monthly planting schedules to tips for summer heat and winter frost protection—so you can grow a productive garden year-round.

Vegetable Gardening in Arizona FAQ

If you enjoyed this post about vegetable gardening in Arizona, please share it.

The post Vegetable Gardening in Arizona (2025 Guide for Desert Gardeners) appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In the record-breaking summer of 2024, Phoenix experienced 113 days with temperatures over 100°F (38°C), with 70 of those days reaching 110°F (43°C) or higher. That kind of heat can quickly overwhelm even a well-established garden.

Gardening in extreme heat isn’t easy, but with the right strategies, your plants can pull through. In this post, I’ll walk you through what to do (and what not to do) during a heatwave. A free printable PDF is also available at the top of this post. Explore the Desert Gardening page for everything you need to grow in hot, dry climates.

What we will cover:

• Why Heatwaves Are So Hard on Plants
• The Best Defense Starts Before the Heat
• What to Do During a Heatwave
• What NOT to Do During a Heatwave
• FAQs about Gardening During a Heatwave
• Summary: What to Do and What Not to Do
• After the Heatwave: Evaluate & Plan Ahead
• Additional high-heat gardening resources:

Why Heatwaves Are So Hard on Plants

When it gets this hot, plants shut down normal functions just to survive. It can be discouraging to walk outside and see everything wilted. Gardening during a heatwave isn’t easy.

Normally, they release water vapor through their leaves to stay cool. This is called transpiration. But in extreme heat, they stop that process to conserve moisture. That means:

• No cooling
• No growing
• No photosynthesis

Most plants start to suffer when leaf temperatures reach 115°F (46°C). Some heat-loving plants can handle it, but many crops, especially cool-season ones, cannot.

An extreme heatwave separates warm-loving crops from those that thrive in heat. Typical warm-season crops like squash, tomatoes, cucumbers, and green beans may struggle during high heat. If the heatwave is temporary, these guidelines may help the warm-season crops survive until temperatures moderate. 

The Best Defense Starts Before the Heat

Just like people prepare for emergencies in advance, your garden needs a strong foundation before the hottest days hit. That includes:

• Planting at the right time so roots are well-established
• Watering deeply to encourage roots to grow down into cooler soil
• Using healthy, well-draining soil
• Choosing heat-tolerant plants
• Placing plants in locations with appropriate sunlight exposure.

Smart Plant Selection for Heatwave Survival: Heat-loving crops include okra, amaranth, sesame, basil, cowpeas, peanuts, roselle hibiscus, and sweet potatoes. Learn more about these heat-loving crops in this blog post. Focus on plants known for heatwave survival.

If you’ve done these things, your garden already has a better chance. But if you haven’t, don’t give up. There are still steps you can take when extreme heat hits.

What to Do During a Heatwave

1. Watering Plants in Extreme Heat

One of the most important tasks during a heatwave is proper watering.

Check the soil each morning. If it’s still hydrated, hold off on watering. If the soil is dry, soak deeply so water reaches the root zone. This helps plants stay hydrated throughout the day and encourages deep root growth

Young trees and shrubs also need deep, slow watering at the drip line where the roots are growing.

Overwatering during heat stress can cause root issues. A wilted plant may not need water, check the soil first!

Learn more about the best way to water raised beds in this blog post. Learn more watering principles in this blog post.

2. Use Mulch to Protect Garden from Heat

Apply a 3 to 4 inch layer of mulch to garden beds before summer heat arrives.
Mulch helps protect your garden by covering the soil surface, reducing evaporation, and keeping the root zone cooler. This helps moisture stay where roots need it and prevents extreme temperature swings that can stress plants.

Mulch is not just for vegetable beds. Trees, shrubs, and native plants also benefit from improved moisture retention and more stable soil temperatures.

Learn more about the best types of mulch for hot climates in this article.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

3. Provide Shade to Protect Plants from Summer Heat

Shade can make a big difference in how plants handle high temperatures. It lowers leaf temperatures and helps prevent sunburn and heat stress. Even a few hours of protection from the intense afternoon sun can be enough to help plants survive. Young trees especially benefit from extra protection while they are getting established.

You don’t need fancy materials. Use what you have:

• 50% white shade cloth is ideal because it filters sunlight while still allowing plants to grow
• Old sheets, patio umbrellas, or even temporary canopies work in a pinch
• During a heatwave, adding extra shade can help plants pull through

In my garden, I like to plant sunflowers on the west side of raised beds to create natural afternoon shade.

Shade structures don’t have to be permanent. A simple setup using hoops, clips, or repurposed materials can make a difference.

Other Shade Resources:

• Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer
• Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun)
• How to Create Garden Shade for Heat Protection

4. Support Containers During a Heatwave

• Use ollas or watering spikes to deliver steady moisture
• Group containers together to create a humid microclimate
• Move pots to the north side of walls or into shaded areas

Consider adding ollas to containers to provide a moisture reserve from which the roots can draw. I use the ollas from Growoya

5. Garden Triage: Focus on What Can Survive

Even if you do everything right, it may still not be enough. That is when it helps to look at the bigger picture. Gardening in 110°F weather requires tough decisions.

Think of it like garden triage. You don’t have to save everything. Focus your efforts on:

• Established perennials
• Fruit trees
• Truly heat-tolerant crops like okra, basil, sweet potatoes, and amaranth

After the brutally hot summer of 2020, someone at one of my fall gardening classes asked,
“If you had known how hot this summer would be, what would you have done differently?”

My answer was simple. I would have leaned more into heat-loving cover crops and stressed less about keeping everything alive. That question helped me realize that letting a space rest isn’t a sign of giving up. Sometimes, planting a cover crop and letting that area go for the season is the smartest move.

What NOT to Do During a Heatwave

These are common mistakes that can cause more harm than good during extreme heat.

Don’t prune

Leaves shade stems and fruit. Removing them can expose plants to sunscald, similar to frost damage. Damaged leaves protect the plant from worse injury.

Don’t fertilize

Fertilizer encourages new growth, and that tender new growth is especially vulnerable to heat damage. Wait until temperatures cool and plants begin growing again.

Don’t plant new crops

Seedlings and transplants have very little chance of surviving a heatwave. Delay planting until the weather stabilizes.

Don’t expect perfect harvests

Many plants stop flowering or drop blossoms during extreme heat as a survival response. This is normal. Once it cools down, they will likely begin producing again.

Don’t forget trees and shrubs

Give deep, slow water at the drip line and mulch well. Shade young trees when possible to reduce heat stress as they establish.

FAQs about Gardening During a Heatwave

What is the best time to water during a heatwave?
Early in the morning. This reduces evaporation and helps plants start the day fully hydrated.

Can I mist my plants?
Yes, especially in dry climates. Mist in the late afternoon, but allow time for leaves to dry before dark.

How can I tell if I’m overwatering?
Check the soil 1-2 inches down. If it’s still moist, wait. Wilting does not always mean the soil is dry.

What plants survive heat waves best?
Okra, sweet potatoes, basil, amaranth, roselle hibiscus, and many native or desert-adapted perennials.

Is it too late to help my plants?
If they are still alive, it is not too late. Prioritize shade, water, and mulch.

Why are my plants wilting even though I watered them?
They may be suffering from heat stress, not water stress. If they perk up overnight, it means they are adjusting to the heat. Always check the soil before watering.

Should I cover all my plants with shade cloth?
Not necessarily, but even heat-loving plants benefit from protection during extreme conditions. Afternoon shade is most helpful.

How do I know if I’m overwatering?
Feel the soil an inch or two deep. If it’s moist, do not water. Roots need both water and air. Too much water can drown the roots.

Summary: What to Do and What Not to Do

What to Do

• Water deeply in the early morning
• Check the soil before watering wilted plants
• Apply 3–4 inches of mulch
• Add afternoon shade using cloth or structures
• Group and shade containers
• Use ollas or watering spikes
• Mist leaves in the afternoon
• Focus on heat-tolerant plants
• Let areas rest with cover crops

What NOT to Do

• Don’t expect perfect harvests
• Don’t prune
• Don’t fertilize
• Don’t plant during extreme heat
• Don’t overwater wilted plants without checking the soil

After the Heatwave: Evaluate & Plan Ahead

Although it may feel endless, heat waves don’t last forever. Once temperatures return to normal, take a few minutes to assess how your garden handled the stress.

• Which plants thrived, and which struggled?
• Which parts of your yard or garden received too much sun or heat?
• Did your shade strategies and watering techniques work well?

Use what you learn to plan for next time.

Additional high-heat gardening resources:

• 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive Summer
• Adding Shade Cloth to a Hot Summer Garden
• 10 Ways to Prepare Your Hot-Climate Garden for Summer
• 10 Flowers that Love Hot Summers – and How to Grow Them
• Summer Gardening in Arizona
• Summer Gardening in a Hot Climate (Playlist on YouTube)
• Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates

The post Gardening in Extreme Heat: What to Do During a Heatwave appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If your garden gets full sun like mine, you know how intense summer can be, especially in a hot climate like Arizona. In 2022, I added a simple DIY shade cloth setup to protect my plants from the worst of the summer heat. Three seasons later, I can say it was one of the best improvements we’ve made to the garden.

The structure is easy to put up in late spring and take down in the fall. When the original shade cloth wore out after three years, we replaced it and kept using the same support system. If I were doing it all over again, I wouldn’t change a thing, except for one upgrade: swapping the original poles for thicker steel ones that handle wind and weight even better.

In this post, I’ll show you exactly how we added shade cloth to our raised bed garden, which shade cloth we chose, and what we’ve learned after using the setup through three hot Arizona summers.

If your garden gets intense summer sun like ours, this guide will help you give your plants the protection they need to keep growing all summer long.

For more tips, see How to Create Shade in the Garden and Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer.

Why You Need Shade Cloth for Your Garden in Summer

In March 2020, we expanded our garden with six raised beds and a row of arched trellises. This part of the yard receives full sun, which is ideal for rapid growth in spring, but during summer, the intense heat becomes too much for many vegetables. If you live in a hot climate like Arizona, a garden shade cloth setup is a simple way to extend your growing season.

To help our garden thrive during the hottest months, we decided to install a seasonal shade structure. It’s easy to put up and take down each year, and it’s made a huge difference. Our DIY garden shade structure used wire supports and steel poles to hold the cloth in place all summer long.

Read more about surviving heatwaves in the garden and what to plant in June that can handle the heat.

When To Add Shade Cloth for Vegetable Gardens in Hot Climates

Most vegetables begin to show signs of stress when temperatures are consistently above 90°F (32.2°C). Adding shade helps cool the growing area by as much as 10°F (6°C), which can reduce sunburn and water loss.

I usually add shade cloth once we reach those 90°F days, and remove it in fall when temperatures consistently drop below that point. Label the corners before storing it, and keep it indoors until next season.

Not sure which vegetables need shade? This post breaks it down: Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun)

How We Installed a DIY Garden Shade Structure Over Raised Beds

1. Install Pole Supports

When we first added shade cloth, we started with two 10-foot (3.05 m) metal poles that were already in place for garden lighting. We added two more poles of the same size and style to complete the support structure, so all four were originally the same.

These poles also hold café lights, which we keep up year-round. The lights add ambiance in the evening and make the garden usable after sunset, especially helpful during Arizona’s hot summers when it’s more pleasant to garden later in the day.

After using the original poles for a few seasons, we decided to upgrade the setup. We replaced all four with thicker, sturdier 12-foot (3.6 m) steel poles for improved strength and durability.

The upgraded poles:

• Are cemented 2 feet (61 cm) into the ground
• Made from 4” x 4” x 1/8” square steel tubing
• Include a welded hook on top for easy clipping of shade cloth or lights

The added height and strength help the support wires stay tighter, making the structure more resilient during wind and monsoon storms.

2. Install Wire Supports

To support the shade cloth and prevent sagging, we added crossed steel cables:

• Used ⅛-inch stainless steel wire rope
• Loops were secured using aluminum crimp sleeves and a crimping tool
• Cables were attached corner-to-corner with carabiners, forming an “X” shape

This type of support works well for areas larger than 100 square feet. Our cloth covers 17′ x 20′ (5.18m x 6.09m)—about 320 square feet (27.72 m²). For spaces over 400 square feet, consider adding more support lines.

3. The Best Shade Cloth for Vegetable Gardens in Hot Climates

Wondering what type of shade cloth to use for vegetables? Here’s what we recommend:

We chose white 50% shade cloth, which offers a good balance of protection and light diffusion for most vegetables. Adding shade cloth to your vegetable garden can prevent heat stress and sunscald.

Here’s why we like the white 50%:

• Reflects sunlight and reduces heat build-up
• Provides diffused light with fewer harsh shadows
• Increases light quality and duration for fruiting plants

Tips for Choosing the Right Percentage Shade Cloth for Vegetables:

• 40% for most vegetables
• 50% for tomatoes
• 60–70% for succulents and sensitive plants

Click here to see the shade cloth we used.

Grower’s Solution also offers custom-sized shade cloth if you need a more exact fit.

4. Attach the Shade Cloth

We clipped the shade cloth to each pole using carabiners and the grommets built into the fabric. The support wires underneath held it securely, and installation only took a few minutes with a ladder.

The cloth comes down just as easily at the end of the season or ahead of high winds. We store it labeled and folded for reuse.

What We Learned After 3 Years of Using Garden Shade Cloth in Arizona

• Upgrading to thicker poles made a big difference: The original 10-foot poles worked for a few years, but we eventually replaced all four with taller, sturdier 12-foot steel poles. The added strength and height gave better tension to the support wires and helped the structure hold up even better during monsoon winds.
• Measure carefully: I eyeballed some of the wire lengths when setting up the supports and had to go back and adjust them. Taking a few extra minutes to measure properly would have saved time later.
• An extra set of hands helps: It’s possible to install shade cloth on your own, but having someone else there makes it easier to measure accurately and get the cloth into place.
• The structure held up well: Even with high winds during monsoon season, the shade cloth stayed secure with the carabiner clips.
• Plan for replacement: After three summers, the original shade cloth began to stretch out and tear in a few areas. We replaced it with the same type of cloth and reused the existing wires.
• Repurpose old cloth: Instead of tossing worn-out cloth, we folded it and used it to add shade over part of the chicken run.

More Summer Gardening Resources

Looking for more ways to help your garden thrive during the summer? These posts and videos are packed with ideas, plant suggestions, and practical tips for gardening in the heat:

• Vegetables That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• Summer Gardening in Arizona
• Hot Summer Rose Care: How to Help Roses Survive Extreme Heat
• Take the Summer Off: Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead
• How to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Summers
• 10 Ways to Prepare Your Hot-Climate Garden for Summer
• Watch: Summer Gardening Playlist on YouTube

If this post helped you feel more confident about adding shade to your garden, please share it with a fellow gardener.

The post How to Add Shade Cloth to a Hot Summer Garden (Easy DIY Setup) appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this post, I’m sharing 10 proven ways to help your garden survive summer’s intense heat. These tips are especially helpful if you garden in a hot, dry climate, such as Arizona, but most apply regardless of your gardening location. So pour yourself a cool drink, find a shady spot, and let’s walk through how to set your garden up for success, even when the forecast is sizzling.

What we’ll cover:

1. Planting at the right time – Why timing matters more than you think
2. Choosing heat-tolerant plants – What grows well in hot summer weather
3. Understanding microclimates – Make the most of shady, sheltered areas
4. Watering wisely – How and when to water for the best results
5. Using mulch effectively – Reduce evaporation and keep soil cool
6. Providing summer shade – Options for shade cloth, structures, and more
7. Protecting from summer wind – Why hot wind is more damaging than you think
8. Dealing with dust storms – How to help plants recover
9. Helping container plants cope – Tips for watering and placement
10. Adjusting your expectations – Why “survival” is a win in summer

More Summer Gardening Resources

1. Plant your garden at the right time

If you only follow one tip from this list, make it this one. Use a planting guide made for your specific area and stick to it. When you plant at the right time, your garden gets a head start. Plants have time to establish strong roots before the extreme heat sets in. Well-established plants are more resilient and better able to handle heat and stress.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, click here to see the planting guides I use. For other areas, this post can help you find a reliable guide: How to Find a Planting Guide for Your Area.

These planting resources for the low desert of Arizona are available in my shop.

2. Choose the right plants for your garden

Not all plants can handle high summer temperatures, especially during stretches of extreme heat. Look for varieties that are bred for your region or known to do well in hot climates. If disease is a concern, choose varieties labeled as resistant. If your growing season is short, opt for plants with lower “days to harvest.”

Some heat-loving plants to consider: sweet potatoes, okra, Malabar spinach, asparagus beans, roselle hibiscus, and basil. These thrive in hot temperatures and are excellent additions to a summer garden in a warm climate.

3. Be aware of microclimates in your yard

Every yard has areas that get more or less sun, wind, and heat. Observing your space and understanding how the light moves through it can make a big difference in summer. Look for spots that are protected from late-afternoon sun, and take note of areas that are consistently cooler or warmer.

Microclimates matter even more in summer. A few degrees of difference can determine whether a plant survives or struggles. Use these areas to your advantage, especially for more sensitive crops or containers.

4. Water your garden correctly to help it survive the summer

Watering is one of the most crucial things you can do to support your garden during the summer. Inconsistent watering leads to stressed plants, making them more susceptible to pests, diseases, and heat damage.

The best solution is to automate your watering. A simple system with a battery-powered timer and drip tubing can make a big difference. Water deeply and consistently to encourage the development of strong root systems.

Water early in the morning to give the soil time to absorb the moisture and reduce evaporation. Avoid watering during the heat of the day, when a significant portion of the water can be lost to evaporation before it reaches the plant roots.

I use the watering grids from Garden in Minutes in all of my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off orders of $100 or more, or use ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

For more detailed help, refer to How to Water Your Garden in a Hot Climate.

5. Mulch, mulch, mulch to help your garden survive summer

Mulch is one of the simplest and most effective ways to protect your garden from the summer heat. Add a layer of 3 to 5 inches of organic mulch such as compost, straw, pine needles, shredded leaves, newspaper, or cardboard. This keeps soil moisture in, reduces temperature swings, and protects plant roots.

Mulch also improves soil over time as it breaks down. It helps suppress weeds, which compete with your plants for water and nutrients. Learn more about how to mulch your garden here.

Note: Straw is usually a better choice than hay. Hay often contains seeds that sprout in the garden, while straw has fewer seeds and is less likely to become a problem.

6. Provide shade for your summer garden

When temperatures stay high for days or weeks, even heat-loving plants can suffer. Shade can make the difference between survival and sun-scorched plants. Providing shade is like giving your garden a protective layer to help it survive the hottest part of the day.

Temporary shade structures like shade cloth, umbrellas, or even old sheets can be very effective. Use hoops, T-posts, or PVC frames to support them. For longer-term solutions, consider planting vines, sunflowers, or even permanent trees for natural shade. Here is a link to the shade cloth I use.

For more help, read Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer and Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun).

7. Keep an eye on the wind

Wind can be just as damaging as heat. Summer winds are often hot and dry, which can quickly dehydrate plants. Make sure young trees are staked securely and that trellises or shade structures are anchored well.

Wind increases moisture loss in plants, even if the temperature isn’t extreme. After a particularly windy day, water deeply to replenish the moisture lost through evaporation from the leaves.

8. Don’t let the dust settle

Dust storms are a common occurrence in many hot, dry climates. When a storm rolls through, plants can be left coated in fine dust that blocks sunlight and clogs the pores on their leaves.

If a dust storm isn’t followed by rain, gently rinse your plants with the hose to help them recover. This also gives you a chance to check for any damage caused by wind or flying debris.

9. Baby your containers to help them survive the summer

Container plants are especially vulnerable during summer. The soil in pots heats up faster than garden soil and dries out quickly. Because roots can’t reach down into cooler layers of soil, they rely on you completely for water and care.

• Check the container soil moisture daily, especially during heatwaves. A moisture meter can help prevent overwatering. I use this moisture meter from Amazon in my own garden.
• If you can, move containers to shadier parts of your yard. Grouping them together can help retain moisture and reduce stress on plants.
• One of my favorite tools for container gardening in the heat is an olla. I use ollas from Growoya in all my pots. They slowly release water right where the roots need it.

If you’re using containers in a hot climate, Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates shares strategies to help your garden thrive when temperatures soar.

10. Adjust expectations

It’s normal for a summer garden in a hot climate to look a little tired. Even with all the right care, things slow down. Many plants stop producing fruit when temperatures are over 100°F. Tomato and pepper pollen, for example, isn’t viable at high temps.

This doesn’t mean you’re doing anything wrong. The goal in summer is often just to keep your plants alive until cooler temperatures return. Focus on maintenance, harvest what you can, and plan ahead for your fall garden.

When the weather finally starts to shift, your garden (and you) will breathe a sigh of relief.

More Summer Gardening Resources

Looking for more ways to help your garden thrive during the summer? These posts and videos are packed with ideas, plant suggestions, and practical tips for gardening in the heat:

• Vegetables That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• Summer Gardening in Arizona
• Hot Summer Rose Care: How to Help Roses Survive Extreme Heat
• Take the Summer Off: Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead
• How to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Summers
• 10 Ways to Prepare Your Hot-Climate Garden for Summer
• Watch: Summer Gardening Playlist on YouTube

Find all my desert gardening resources in one place on the Desert Gardening page.

If this post about helping your garden survive summer was helpful, please share it with a fellow gardener.
Have more tips for summer gardening success? Leave a comment—I’d love to hear what works for you.

The post 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive Summer appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The steps you take before the heat arrives will make a big difference in how well your vegetables, herbs, and flowers handle summer stress. In this post, I’m sharing 10 smart ways to prepare your garden for summer in a hot climate—so you can protect your plants, conserve water, and keep gardening all season long.

1. Eliminate small containers

Small containers work well during the cooler months, but once temperatures rise, they become more of a liability than an asset. They heat up and dry out quickly, making it difficult to keep anything healthy and hydrated.

As summer approaches, it’s best to put small containers away until fall. Empty the soil and use it as mulch in the garden or add it to your compost pile.

If you still want to grow in containers during the summer, opt for large containers that hold at least 10 gallons of soil. Bigger containers retain moisture better and help buffer plant roots from the intense heat.

If you’re using containers in a hot climate, Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates shares strategies to help your garden thrive when temperatures soar.

For more information about container gardening, read this blog post, “Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Steps for Success“.

2. Use ollas (oyas) in containers

If you’re gardening in large containers during the summer, adding an olla (also called an oya) is one of the best ways to keep plants hydrated in the heat.

Ollas are unglazed terra cotta pots buried in the soil near your plants. As the soil dries out, water slowly seeps through the porous walls of the olla, delivering moisture directly to the roots, right where it’s needed.

This slow-release watering method helps containers stay evenly moist and reduces the stress of frequent watering. Just refill the olla as needed, and let it do the work. I use ollas from Growoya.

For more information about adding ollas to your garden, read this blog post, “The Best Way to Water Outdoor Potted Plants“.

3. Inspect the watering and irrigation system

During the cooler months, a broken emitter may not be a big deal, but during the summer, the intense heat of hot-summer climates means that a plant could die before you realize it needs water. So check all parts of your watering and irrigation system BEFORE it gets hot.

I use the watering grids from Garden in Minutes in all of my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off orders of $100 or more, or use ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

• Run the drip irrigation system and inspect the emitters on your landscape plants.
• Check the watering system in each bed to ensure adequate water pressure and coverage.
• Add additional emitters as needed.
• Inspect timers. 
• Check and replace batteries in timers.
• Inspect fittings on hoses and replace o-rings as needed to fix leaks. 

For more information about watering your garden, read this blog post, “The Best Way to Water Raised Beds“.

4. Mulch, mulch, mulch!

Mulch is a hot summer gardener’s best friend. The sun in hot-summer climates is hard on plants and the soil. However, there are many advantages to adding mulch:

• Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation. 
• A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time!

For more information about using mulch, read this blog post, “Mulching Your Garden: What to Use and How to Use it”.

5. Evaluate cool-season plants in your hot-climate summer garden

As summer approaches, most cool-season vegetables won’t survive the heat, especially in hot-summer climates like the low desert. If a plant isn’t going to produce before the temperatures rise, it’s usually best to remove it. Stressed, declining plants can attract pests and create more problems in the garden.

That said, I like to leave a few cool-season herbs like cilantro, dill, and parsley to flower. Their blooms are a magnet for beneficial insects and pollinators, and they play a crucial role in supporting garden biodiversity as we head into summer.

6. Plant and make plans for summer planting

Take advantage of open spaces in your garden by planting heat-loving, warm-season crops like okra, sweet potatoes, black-eyed peas, and basil. These crops thrive during the hottest months and help you make the most of the summer growing season.

As you harvest spring crops like potatoes, garlic, and onions, have a plan ready for what will go in next. Thinking a few weeks ahead helps you transition smoothly from one season to the next without letting your garden sit empty.

Not sure what to plant? Use the May, June, July, and August planting guides for ideas and timing tips.

To order the “Perpetual Planting and Harvest Calendar for the Low Desert of Arizona“, click here.

7. Add cover crops to empty beds

f garden beds won’t be used for six weeks or more, planting a cover crop is one of the best things you can do. Cover crops act like a living mulch. They shade the soil, reduce evaporation, suppress weeds, and add organic matter when you cut them back.

In the summer, it’s especially important to choose heat-loving cover crops that can handle high temperatures. Options like cowpeas, buckwheat, or Sudan grass not only survive the heat but also help your soil thrive through it.

Instead of letting beds sit empty and exposed, cover crops give them a chance to rest and rebuild. You’ll return in the fall to healthier soil that’s ready to plant.

Learn more in this guide: Take the Summer Off: Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead.

8. Evaluate your yard for needed shade

Once you have your plan of what to plant in your garden, assess the shade needs of your garden. First, look at the areas that receive full sun. Do you need to add some shade? Some plants grow well in full sun, while others do not. Next, evaluate where it would be helpful to add shade in your hot-climate summer garden. 

For more information about shade, read this blog post, “How to Create Shade in the Garden”.

9. Add shade as needed to your hot-climate summer garden

Shade keeps the direct sun off foliage; the shaded area can be about 10℉ cooler than areas without shade. In addition, providing shade for plants can lower the amount of moisture loss through transpiration (evaporation of water from plant leaves). There are several different ways to add shade to your garden.

Wondering if your garden really needs shade? In Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer, I share how shade protects plants, conserves water, and extends your growing season.

Sunflowers are an excellent way to add natural shade where needed. 

• Grow sunflowers outside of your raised beds, so they do not compete with the crops in the beds.
• Plant sunflowers on the west side of the garden to help provide afternoon shade. 
• Plant branching varieties of sunflowers for the longest-lasting blooms and shade.

Add shade cloth where needed. Shade cloth comes in different coverages. In most instances, a percentage of 40-60% shade cloth is suitable for vegetables during the summer.

Not sure how much sun your veggies need? Check out this guide on Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun) to help your garden thrive.

10. Expect and learn from challenges in your hot-climate summer garden

Summer gardening in hot-summer climates isn’t easy. Each summer brings different challenges. 

• Will there be monsoon winds, moisture, and rain? 
• Will there be record-breaking hot temperatures again this year? 

Preparing for summer may mean expecting that some plants will not survive. However, learning from our mistakes and circumstances outside our control is essential.  

More Summer Gardening Resources

Looking for more ways to help your garden thrive during the summer? These posts and videos are packed with ideas, plant suggestions, and practical tips for gardening in the heat:

• Vegetables That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• Summer Gardening in Arizona
• Hot Summer Rose Care: How to Help Roses Survive Extreme Heat
• How to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Summers
• Gardening in Extreme Heat: What to Do During a Heatwave
• 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive Summer
• Watch: Summer Gardening Playlist on YouTube

Find all my desert gardening resources in one place on the Desert Gardening page.

If this post about how to prepare your hot-climate summer garden was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Prepare Your Garden for a Hot Summer: 10 Essential Tips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Thinking about gardening in a GreenStalk during the summer, especially in a hot climate like Arizona? Vertical planters like the GreenStalk can be a great way to grow in a small space, but they come with extra challenges when temperatures rise. Containers dry out faster, heat builds up quicker, and limited soil volume can stress plants during the hottest months of the year.

In climates with mild winters, GreenStalk vertical planter really shine. The soil warms up quickly, you can move the planter to follow the sun, and crops grow well in the cooler months.

What We’ll Cover:

• Why I Started Using a GreenStalk
• What Is a GreenStalk?
• Best Soil to Use in a GreenStalk
• How to Set It Up
• What to Plant in a GreenStalk
• GreenStalk Gardening in Mild Winter Climates
• GreenStalk Gardening During Hot Summers
• Fertilizing Your GreenStalk
• Watering Tips
• What I’ve Learned So Far
• More Small Space Gardening Articles

Why I Started Using a GreenStalk

I first got a GreenStalk vertical planter because I was running out of room in my raised beds. It was fall, and I needed a place to plant garlic and onions. A few members of my GITG Academy classes had shared their success stories, so I figured, why not give it a try?

What started as a space-saving solution quickly became an experiment in small-space gardening. I was curious: how much could I grow in a small footprint? And how would it hold up to an Arizona summer?

Since then, I’ve been testing different crops and setups and learning a lot along the way. In this post, I’ll share tips for setting up, growing, and maintaining a GreenStalk—especially in a hot climate.

What Is a GreenStalk?

The GreenStalk is a tiered vertical planter with several pockets per level, stacked to form a tall, compact garden. It’s perfect for patios, balconies, and other small spaces. One of my favorite features is that it rotates, making it easy to adjust for sun exposure throughout the day.

Each tier holds about 0.75 cubic feet of soil, and a seven-tier GreenStalk holds just under 4 cubic feet total—plenty of room to grow a variety of crops.

You can purchase a GreenStalk here and use my discount code: GITG10 to save.

Best Soil to Use in a GreenStalk

Good soil is essential. I use a high-quality raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm and mix in a balanced organic fertilizer. Each pocket needs to drain well but hold moisture.

If you’re using the GreenStalk Leaf Planter like I am, each tier holds 0.75 cubic feet of potting mix (about 6 gallons). With 7 tiers, that’s a total of 5.25 cubic feet of soil (or about 42 gallons).

That’s actually a decent amount of soil for a vertical garden. Be sure to fill each tier all the way to the top—more soil means better moisture retention, deeper root space, and less temperature fluctuation.

Before planting, I also top off each pocket with worm castings harvested from my in-ground beds. It helps bring biology into the soil, especially important in a container system like this.

Read more: Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

How to Set It Up

Setting it up is simple, but one step is critical: make sure it’s level. The watering system is gravity-fed, so if the tower tilts even a little, some pockets may stay dry while others are overwatered. I learned that lesson the hard way. My ground slopes, so I placed a brick underneath the base to level it.

I placed mine in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade—a must for Arizona summers. The base rotates, so I spin it each time I water to give each side even light.

What to Plant in a GreenStalk

Incorporate companion planting principles, even in a small space like a GreenStalk. I try to include a combination of vegetables, herbs, and flowers throughout the planter to create a balanced and productive mini-ecosystem.

This mix helps attract pollinators, deter pests, and maximize space. For more ideas on how to pair plants together, check out my blog post on Companion Planting.

When choosing what to grow in a GreenStalk, look for compact, dwarf, or container-friendly varieties. These are naturally better suited to the shallow pockets and limited root space.

GreenStalk Gardening in Mild Winter Climates

If you live in a climate with warm winters and hot summers, the GreenStalk is ideal from fall through early spring.

• The soil heats up quickly, helping crops grow faster.
• You can move the planter to maximize sunlight as the sun angle shifts.
• It’s easy to cover during a cold snap.

In the low desert, fall can still be hot, especially in September and early October. Wait to plant cool-season crops like garlic until daytime highs consistently drop below 90°F (32°C). Planting too early in hot soil can cause sprouting issues (garlic may rot) or stress for young plants.

As the days get shorter in the fall, set your GreenStalk in full sun and rotate it every few days to encourage even growth.

Crops that grow well in winter: (click on crop name for growing guides)

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Kale
• Onions
• Broccoli
• Anemones

GreenStalk Gardening During Hot Summers

Summers in the low desert are intense, and container gardens need more care. These tips help keep a GreenStalk growing during the hottest months.

• Move it to a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade.
• Rotate the planter each time you water to give all plants equal light.
• Add a two to three-inch layer of mulch in each pocket to reduce evaporation and protect the soil from the sun.
• Water frequently and check individual pockets by hand to monitor moisture levels. As temperatures climb, expect to water more often—sometimes daily in extreme heat.
• Choose heat-tolerant crops and follow proper planting timing using my Zone 9/10 Planting Guide.

Crops I’m growing in my GreenStalk this summer: (click the name for growing guides)

• Bush beans
• Peppers
• Basil
• Zahara zinnias
• Trailing vinca
• Cantaloupe (experimenting with ladder mesh block trellis support)

I include GreenStalk vertical planters as part of my seasonal garden layout. See where and how I place them in my backyard design.

Fertilizing Your GreenStalk

Each pocket is like a small container—nutrients can wash out quickly. I fertilize once a month using a liquid organic fertilizer, diluted according to the label. Then I pour it directly into the top reservoir, where it filters down through all 7 tiers.

Since the full planter holds about 5.25 cubic feet of soil, check your fertilizer label and calculate the amount based on that volume. For example, if the instructions recommend 1 ounce per 1 cubic foot of soil, you’d use just over 5 ounces for the entire GreenStalk.

I’ve used AgroThrive’s organic balanced fertilizer for years, and even with all the other options out there, I keep coming back to it. It’s not available on Amazon—you order it directly from their website through this link.

Watering Tips

Watering is simple—just pour water into the top reservoir and let gravity do the work. But again, the key is making sure it’s level.

I also check pockets by hand occasionally to make sure everything is evenly moist. In hot weather, I water more often and use mulch in each pocket to retain moisture.

What I’ve Learned So Far

GreenStalks can be a valuable addition to a patio or small-space garden, especially in regions with mild winters. While summer gardening in a GreenStalk requires more attention, it’s possible to grow a surprising amount with the right setup.

You can purchase a GreenStalk here and use my discount code: GITG10 to save.

If it’s your only way to garden, don’t be too hard on yourself if your harvests are smaller than what others grow in big garden beds. You can still grow a lot in a little space—and that’s what matters.

• Plants don’t grow as large as they do in raised beds.
  
• Watering and fertilizing are simple if you stay consistent.
  
• I remove root balls when crops finish to make space for new soil.
  
• GreenStalks are easy to move and adapt to changing light.
  

More Small Space Gardening Articles

• How to Garden in Elevated Beds
  
• Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates
  
• Container Gardening for Beginners
  

The post GreenStalk Tips for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

We can’t control how others prune their citrus trees, but we can protect our own.

What we’ll cover:

• Why Citrus Bark Needs Protection
• How to Protect Citrus Bark from Sunburn
• When Should You Cover Citrus Bark?
• Maintaining a Healthy Canopy
• Final Thoughts
• More Citrus Growing Resources

Why Citrus Bark Needs Protection

Citrus trees weren’t meant to look like lollipops. That’s one of the most common citrus mistakes—over-pruning and exposing the trunk. Citrus naturally grows like a dense bush, and the lower canopy acts like a natural sunscreen for the bark. But when we “skirt” the tree or prune too aggressively, the trunk is left vulnerable.

The problem? Citrus bark is highly susceptible to sunburn, especially in hot, dry climates like Arizona. Sunburned bark can peel or split, leading to long-term damage, disease, and insect problems. Once the bark is gone, the tree can’t transport nutrients effectively, and that often marks the beginning of the end.

So if your citrus bark is exposed, you need to cover it.

How to Protect Citrus Bark from Sunburn

There are two simple and effective ways to protect citrus bark:

1. Use Tree Wrap

This is my personal favorite. I like to think of citrus wrap like a swim shirt for your tree. (As a mom of five kids swimming through Arizona summers, I always reached for the swim shirts—they covered more and protected better.)

Look for a breathable, stretchable citrus tree wrap that allows air flow while shielding bark from direct sunlight. This is the one I use on Amazon. The wrap naturally expands as the tree grows, so it won’t damage the trunk or restrict circulation. That flexibility is important.

In my Arizona garden, I usually need to replace the wrap every 2–3 years. The intense sun causes it to break down and disintegrate over time. You can peel off the old wrap if it’s splitting and falling apart, or simply wrap it over the top of it. Either way, keeping it updated is a simple step that makes a big difference in preventing citrus bark peeling, cracking, and sunburn.

2. Paint Citrus Bark

If you prefer a quicker method, use a water-based, light-colored paint (specially formulated for citrus or any latex interior white paint diluted 1:1 with water). It reflects sunlight and acts as a sunscreen to prevent sunscald. Just be sure to use water-based paint only—never oil-based. This is the one I use on Amazon.

Side Note: Covering citrus bark by painting or wrapping is a great garden task for older kids or teenagers. It often made it onto my own kids’ Saturday chore list! It’s simple, important, and gives them a chance to contribute to the health of the garden. An entrepreneurial child might even offer to paint bark for neighbors, especially in areas with lots of citrus trees.

Looking for more ideas to get kids involved in the garden? Check out my post on gardening with kids.

Bonus tip: Cover bark before summer heat intensifies. And always check your trees after pruning or in early spring to see if wrap or paint needs to be reapplied.

When Should You Cover Citrus Bark?

• After pruning, especially if you’ve removed lower branches or frost-damaged limbs. Learn more about protecting citrus from freezing temperatures.
• Each spring, as part of your seasonal garden prep—along with tasks like fertilizing citrus and checking for suckers and water sprouts.
• Any time bark is exposed, don’t wait for signs of damage like cracking or peeling. It’s easier to prevent it than to fix it.

Read this guide for more tips on how to get your garden ready for summer.

While You’re at It… Check the Label

While you’re checking the citrus wrap or bark paint, it’s also a great time to check your tree label. Has it faded or fallen off? Does it need to be moved to a larger branch as the tree grows? Keeping your fruit trees labeled makes it easy to remember what variety you planted, especially when you’re tracking ripening times or planning for harvests.

I like to use these durable aluminum labels from Amazon that hold up well in the Arizona sun. Learn more about how and why to label your trees in this post: How to Label Fruit Trees.

Maintain a Healthy Canopy

One of the best ways to avoid sunburn in the first place? Don’t over-prune. Maintain a full, healthy canopy that shades the trunk naturally. Citrus doesn’t need to be “cleaned up”. Remember, it’s more of a shrub than a tree in structure. Read more in my fruit tree pruning guide.

Final Thoughts

Protecting your citrus tree’s bark by painting the bark or wrapping it might seem like a small step, but it’s a crucial one, especially in hot climates. Whether you use tree wrap or citrus paint, it’s a quick and easy way to help your tree survive and thrive through the summer. Don’t skip it!

More Citrus Growing Resources:

• How to Grow Citrus in Arizona
• How to Decide Which Citrus Tree to Plant
• Types of Citrus Trees That Grow Well in Arizona
• 3 Tips for Juicing Citrus
• How to Fertilize Citrus Trees

If this post about how to protect citrus bark from sunburn was helpful, please share it.

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Carrots are biennials, which means they usually flower in their second year. But when temperatures fluctuate (which they often do in the low desert), carrots can bolt early.

Here’s what we will cover:

• What Causes Carrots to Bolt?
• What Does a Bolting Carrot Look Like?
• Can You Still Eat Bolted Carrots?
• How to Prevent Carrots from Bolting
• Don’t Worry—It Happens!

What Causes Carrots to Bolt?

Normally, carrots grow a large, sweet root in their first year. Then, in their second year, they send up a tall stalk and bloom. But if they experience a cold snap (even briefly) and then warm weather, they can be tricked into thinking winter has passed. That’s when they bolt—flowering much earlier than expected.

Bolting means a plant has shifted its energy from growing roots or leaves to producing flowers and seeds.

In carrots, this is usually triggered by a process called vernalization, when a plant experiences a cold period followed by warm temperatures. This combination tricks the plant into thinking it’s already gone through a winter, and it’s time to reproduce.

This happens more often when:

• Carrots are already a bit mature
• They’re stressed (from inconsistent water, overcrowding, or poor soil)
• Temperatures fluctuate widely (like they often do in desert springs).

You may also notice bolting in other crops this time of year—learn more in Why Did My Onions Bolt?, What Causes Witch’s Broom in Garlic?, and How to Prevent Cilantro from Bolting.

What Does a Bolting Carrot Look Like?

• The central stalk thickens and shoots upward
  
• Feathery flower buds form on top
  
• The root may become woody or bitter
  
• Growth of the root usually slows or stops
  

Looking for clarity on gardening terms like bolting? Check out my complete Gardening Glossary: Practical Terms and Definitions.

Can You Still Eat Bolted Carrots?

You can, but the taste and texture usually aren’t great. If the root is still small and tender, give it a try. But often, bolted carrots are tough and bitter. Instead of tossing them, consider leaving a few in the ground to flower.

Carrot flowers are beautiful umbel blooms that attract tons of beneficial insects.

Pollinators love them—just like they love the flowers in other members of the same plant family. Learn more in How to Grow Dill, How to Grow Parsley, and How to Grow Fennel.

If you let the flowers mature, you can also save seeds. Here’s a step-by-step guide on How to Save Seeds from Your Garden.

How to Prevent Carrots from Bolting

You can’t control the weather, but you can reduce the chances of bolting with a few simple steps:

• Plant at the right time – In the low desert, carrots do best when planted from late September through February. For a complete guide to planting, growing, and harvesting healthy carrots, check out How to Grow Carrots.
• Mulch deeply – Mulch helps insulate the soil, reducing temperature swings that can trigger bolting.
• Harvest on time – If you’ve had a sudden warm-up in early spring, consider harvesting early, especially if your carrots are already near maturity.
• Choose bolt-resistant varieties – Some carrot types are more tolerant of heat and temperature swings. Look for “slow to bolt” or “heat-tolerant” options. Types often noted for bolt resistance include Purple Haze, Sugarsnax, Speedo, and Rubypack. I’ve had excellent results with Sugarsnax carrots. I’m going to plant more of those next season.

For more highly rated carrot varieties, check out the Cornell Vegetable Varieties Database.

Bolting happens!

Carrots that bolt in their first year are disappointing, but it’s a natural response to unpredictable weather.

This has happened more often to me over the last couple of years, especially as we’ve had more unpredictable swings in spring weather. I’m planning to try a few things: planting more bolt-resistant varieties, adding mulch (something I usually skip for carrots), and watching the forecast more closely so I can harvest early if a sudden heat wave is coming.

You may also notice bolting in other crops this time of year—learn more in Why Did My Onions Bolt?, What Causes Witches Broom in Garlic?, and How to Prevent Cilantro from Bolting.

Have you had trouble with bolting carrots, too? I’d love to hear what has worked for you—please share your experiences in the comments.

For more common garden issues and how to fix them, visit my Garden Troubleshooting Guide.

If this post was helpful, please share it!

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It’s definitely possible—with a few key adjustments. Elevated beds are more exposed than in-ground options, but with the right setup, you can grow productive, healthy crops even in the heat.

In this post, I’ll share the methods I use to keep my elevated beds growing through the hottest months. If you garden in a hot, dry climate, these tips will help.

For more on choosing, setting up, and planting in elevated beds, read my post on How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds.

Looking for the bed I use? Click here to see it on Vego Garden and use one of my discount codes.

Here’s what we will cover:

• How starting early helps crops survive
• Watering strategies that work
• Smart summer placement
• What to plant in the heat
• What to do during a heatwave
• FAQ: Elevated Beds in Hot Climates
• Final thoughts about elevated garden beds in high temperatures

Start Early

Timing is everything when gardening in hot climates, especially in elevated beds. I plant early in the season to give crops time to establish strong root systems before the intense heat sets in.

If you wait too long, young plants may not be well-established enough to survive the stress of summer. Once they’re struggling in the heat, it’s much harder for them to recover. Starting early gives your garden the best chance to thrive. Use my monthly planting guides or Low Desert Planting Guides to help you decide what and when to plant.

Watering Strategies That Work

Elevated beds dry out more quickly than in-ground beds, so consistent, deep watering is key. Here’s what works well in my garden:

Ollas (buried clay pots):

These deliver slow, steady moisture right at the root zone. They also act as a natural moisture gauge—if they’re still full, the surrounding soil is holding water. If they’re low, it’s time to water.
I use the ollas from Growoya. I have 3 medium ollas in my 6 foot bed.

Learn more: Using Ollas to Water Your Garden

Wool pellets:

I mix these wool pellets into the top few inches of soil when filling the bed. They absorb and slowly release moisture over time, which helps maintain more even moisture levels in dry conditions.

Mulch:

Once seedlings are up, I apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature, reduce evaporation, and keep the soil from drying out too quickly.

Check before you water:

Elevated beds need regular monitoring, but if you’re using high-quality soil, it will retain moisture better than typical container mixes. Always check the soil before watering and wait to water until the top inch or two dries out.

The goal is to keep soil consistently moist without waterlogging. A well-mulched bed with good soil and deep watering methods will outperform smaller containers and require less daily attention.

Smart Summer Placement of Elevated Garden Beds

In hot climates, where you place your elevated bed makes a big difference. Plants need sun to grow well, but too much afternoon sun can quickly stress them and dry out the soil.

The ideal spot receives morning sun and afternoon shade. This provides enough light for growth without exposing plants to the most intense heat of the day.

During hot months, I avoid:

• Western exposures, which receive harsh afternoon sun.
• Block walls or concrete, which reflect and radiate heat.

If your bed is on wheels, move it as needed throughout the season to find the right balance of sun and shade.

A thoughtful layout makes all the difference when it comes to raised bed gardens. Read this article for practical ideas and layouts to help you plan a garden that works with your space.

What to Plant in the Heat

In elevated beds during summer, compact, heat-tolerant crops are your best bet. Many warm-season favorites—like watermelon and sweet potatoes—can quickly overwhelm a small space, so variety selection and spacing are key.

Always start with healthy transplants and plant early so roots can get established before the heat sets in. Here are some ideas for summer gardening in elevated beds:

• Compact peppers and tomatoes (plant early and monitor—some may go dormant in the middle of summer)
• Armenian cucumbers and cantaloupe, trained vertically on a ladder mesh block trellis
• Basil, which thrives in the heat, can be harvested frequently
• Dwarf zinnias or other compact, heat-loving flowers for color and pollinators

Avoid overcrowding. Give crops enough room to grow. For more ideas, see my full guides on heat-loving vegetables and heat-tolerant flowers.

If you are gardening in the low desert or another hot, dry climate, the Desert Gardening page is the best place to start. It brings together all my seasonal planting guides, tips for creating shade and managing heatwaves, and advice for protecting plants from frost. Having everything in one place makes it easy to find exactly what you need for each season.

What to Do During a Heatwave

Regular summer heat is one thing, but when temperatures spike or linger for days, elevated beds need extra protection. Because they’re exposed on all sides, the soil heats up faster than in-ground beds, which can stress or even damage plant roots.

Here’s how I protect my elevated beds during extreme heat:

• Move the bed into shade if possible. Even shifting a few feet can make a big difference.
• Use shade cloth or a lightweight cover to block direct sun during the hottest part of the day.
• Check soil moisture more frequently. Even beds with ollas and mulch can dry out quickly during a heatwave.
• Water early in the day so plants are hydrated before peak heat.
• Mulch well to insulate the soil and reduce evaporation from the surface.

You can also monitor how hot the soil is getting using a soil thermometer. I use this soil thermometer from Amazon to track soil temps during the hottest months. For a full how-to, see my guide: How to Check Soil Temperature.

For more heatwave protection tips, read: Gardening in a Heatwave.

FAQ: Elevated Beds in Hot Climates

How deep should an elevated bed be?
At least 12 inches (30 cm). That depth supports strong roots and holds more moisture.

What’s the best watering method?
Oyas and deep watering with organic mulch. Avoid shallow, frequent watering.

Can I garden through the summer in an elevated bed?
Yes, with careful planning. Start early, mulch deeply, and avoid afternoon sun.

Should I add worms to my elevated bed?
No. Instead, mix in worm castings.

Final Thoughts on Elevated Beds in Hot Climates

Elevated garden beds can produce through the summer—even in hot, dry climates—if you set them up for success.

Good soil, early planting, deep watering, and smart placement make all the difference.

Don’t forget—you can shop the bed I use at Vego Garden and use my discount codes to save.

• GROWINGINTHEGARDEN5% for 5% off any elevated garden bed
• GROWINGINTHEGARDEN10OFF for $10 off your entire order

Looking for more small-space gardening inspiration? Check out:

• Cinderblock Garden setup video (blog post coming soon!)
• GreenStalk Gardening Guide Blog Post and GreenStalk YouTube Video
• Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening

Have questions about elevated bed gardening in the heat? Leave a comment.

The post Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this post, you’ll learn which veggies grow best with afternoon shade and which ones benefit from shade to extend their growing season. You’ll also discover which vegetables can handle full sun—even in hot summer climates like Arizona’s low desert.

Which vegetables grow best with afternoon shade?

When planning your vegetable garden, it’s important to consider each plant’s sunlight preferences. While most vegetables appreciate afternoon shade in hot summer climates, some crops are especially sensitive to intense sunlight.

Giving these veggies shade helps protect them from sunburn and stress. It keeps plants healthier and more productive. Shade also cools things down a bit. Fruiting veggies like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants will produce longer before the heat sets in.

If you live in an area with hot summers, give these vegetables extra shade: ginger, turmeric, strawberries, pumpkins, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, summer squash, garlic, blackberries, artichokes, and chard.

Looking for more hot-climate tips? Check out Summer Gardening in Arizona for planting strategies, timing tips, and heat-smart crop choices.

Extend the season for cool-season crops with shade

Many cool-season vegetables struggle as the weather transitions from cool to hot. By adding shade in late spring as temperatures rise, you can extend the harvest season and help your cool-season plants continue producing longer. For instance, giving container-grown potatoes some afternoon shade allows them to complete their growing season before temperatures get too hot.

Some crops that benefit from season-extending shade include kale, radishes, potatoes, cilantro, carrots, cucumbers, beets, peas, lettuce, spinach, and beans.

Adding shade helps these vegetables live longer. They’ll keep producing as temperatures begin to rise, giving you fresh produce later into the season.

Shade is just one piece of the puzzle. Read 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive Summer for more ways to beat the heat and keep your plants thriving.

Which vegetables grow in full sun?

Fortunately, certain vegetables can handle the heat and flourish even under full sun conditions. These heat-loving vegetables typically don’t require additional shade and can withstand direct sunlight. However, keep in mind that during extreme heat waves, all plants—even those that usually thrive in full sun—can benefit from a bit of shade during the hottest part of the day.

Heat-tolerant vegetables that usually thrive in full sun include: roselle, luffa, corn, peanuts, yardlong beans, melons, black-eyed peas, sunflowers, grapes, okra, Armenian cucumbers, basil, amaranth, sesame, and sweet potatoes.

Knowing which vegetables need shade in hot climates makes a big difference in your garden’s success. When you understand each crop’s sunlight needs, you can give your plants exactly what they need to grow well. Happy plants mean better harvests!

More Hot Summer Shade Resources

• If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, I use this one and this one, too.
• Wondering if your garden really needs shade? In Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer, I share how shade protects plants, conserves water, and extends your growing season.
• Looking for creative, budget‑friendly ways to install summer shade cloth? Check out my favorite solutions here.
• Curious about how we built our own shade structure step by step? See the full project in this post.

If this post about which vegetables need shade was helpful, please share it.

The post Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun) appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Shade at a Glance

• Drops leaf‑level temps by ~10 °F (6 °C)
• Cuts watering needs by up to 50 %
• Helps deter heat‑driven pests and diseases

1 · Protects plants from the scorching sun

The morning sun delivers plenty of energy for photosynthesis without the excessive heat stress of all‑day exposure. Once the thermometer tops 90 °F (32 °C), many vegetables struggle. Shade cloth blocks a portion of solar radiation, keeping foliage up to 10 °F (6 °C) cooler.

2 · Adding shade conserves water

Shade reduces evaporation from both soil and leaves (transpiration), meaning less frequent irrigation and lower water bills—crucial in arid climates where every drop counts.

3 · Creates a more comfortable outdoor space

When we hit triple digits, the heat is more manageable for me (and the plants) when I don’t have to be in full sun. The air is still hot, but shade helps!

Spending time in the garden daily is essential for catching problems early. Shade makes those midsummer walk‑throughs bearable, encouraging you to be present, monitor pests, and enjoy your space.

4 · Helps reduce pest and disease pressure

Heat‑stressed plants emit distress signals that attract pests like spider mites and whiteflies. By lowering leaf temperature and stress levels, shade helps plants maintain stronger cuticles and natural defenses, making them less inviting to insects and opportunistic diseases.

5. Buys precious growing time

In the low desert, summer heat arrives quickly. Shade cloth buys time by lowering canopy temperatures just enough to keep tomatoes setting fruit a few extra weeks.

In late summer and early fall, that same shade cloth provides protection for newly planted monsoon and fall-planted seedlings. This allows you to plant a little bit sooner and give plants longer in the ground before the days get too short for the crops to grow well.

Looking for more hot-climate tips? Check out Summer Gardening in Arizona for planting strategies, timing tips, and heat-smart crop choices.

When Should You Add Shade?

Install shade cloth when daytime highs consistently exceed 90 °F (32 °C) and remove it once they drop below that threshold. In the low desert of Arizona, that usually means May through early October. During this stretch, many crops enter a dormancy‑like state to conserve moisture—shade keeps them alive and productive.

Tip: Summer shade should be temporary. Once cooler fall weather arrives, full sun becomes an advantage for most vegetables.

More Hot Summer Shade Resources

• Not sure which vegetables need afternoon shade? I break down the sun‑sensitive and sun‑loving crops in this guide.
• Looking for creative, budget‑friendly ways to install summer shade cloth? Check out my favorite solutions here.
• Curious about how we built our own shade structure step by step? See the full project in this post.
• If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, I use this one and this one, too.

Shade is just one piece of the puzzle. Read 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive Summer for more ways to beat the heat and keep your plants thriving.

If this post about why adding shade to a hot summer garden is a good idea was helpful, please share it.

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Wondering if your garden really needs shade? In Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer, I share how shade protects plants, conserves water, and extends your growing season.

1. Create shade in the garden with thoughtful garden design

Notice which areas in your yard receive morning sun and afternoon shade naturally. These spots are prime real estate for any plants, but especially a summer garden. Use these areas in your garden for vegetables that need shade. South or west-facing parts of your yard will probably need added shade.

• Northern Exposure: often shaded especially during the winter when the sun is low. This is the coldest area during a freeze.
• Southern Exposure: Hot, but usually shaded in late summer afternoon.
• Eastern Exposure: Sunny in the morning, but shaded in the afternoon.
• Western Exposure: Shaded in the morning, but full afternoon sun.

2. Create shade in the garden with shade cloth

If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages in shade cloth allows you to customize the light that reaches your garden.

Using a shade cloth is a game-changer for me. It’s an easy, adjustable solution to protect my delicate veggies from scorching sunrays while allowing enough sunlight to grow.

Which color shade cloth should I use?

When choosing a shade cloth for your garden, consider the temperature differences between night and day as well as the average temperature in your area to determine which color is best suited for your needs.

• White shade cloth reflects light & heat and cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden.
• Black shade cloth absorbs heat. Blocks light. Best for cooler climates.
• Aluminet shade cloth reflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night.

If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, I use this one and this one, too.

Which percentage shade cloth should I use?

Shade cloth percentages indicate how much light is blocked, typically ranging from 30-70%. Here’s a guideline for choosing the right percentage:

• North of the 40th parallel (Northern States): If your garden is located in this region, a 30% shade cloth is recommended. This provides enough protection while allowing ample sunlight for your plants’ growth.
• South of the 40th parallel (Southern States): Opt for a 50% shade cloth for gardens in hotter climates. This higher percentage helps keep plants cool and prevents sun damage during intense heat.
• Succulents & other light-sensitive plants: 60-70% shade cloth.

How far away should the shade cloth be from plants?

Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants. 

What is the best way to attach shade cloth?

Attach shade cloth to existing trellises with zip ties or carabiner clips. At the end of the season, removing the clips, rolling up the shade cloth, and storing it away is simple. When the summer heat comes again, re-attach the shade cloth.

Read this blog post for a detailed explanation of how I added shade to my garden.

3. Create shade in the garden with sunflowers

Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety can offer shade to surrounding plants.

The Sundancer Sunflower from Renee’s Garden Seeds is my favorite sunflower for adding shade. It is a branching sunflower with endless blooms and a large plant that blooms all summer.

Plant sunflowers on the west or south side of the garden for shade. Once grown in a garden, they often reseed and pop up year after year. Unwanted volunteers are easy to pull out. 

At the end of the season, cut off the stem at the base of the dirt rather than pulling out the entire root system. The remaining root will decompose and add organic matter to the area. Sunflowers can be planted in the low desert of Arizona from February through August.

4. Create shade in the garden with umbrellas

Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips over and damages surrounding plants. 

5. Create shade in the garden with plants

Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade. 

Low-growing crops like lettuce or spinach benefit from the shade provided by cucumber vines. For more great pairings, check out this post on what to plant with cucumbers.

Heat-loving crops that may provide shade for other plants include roselle, luffa, amaranth, black-eyed peas, Armenian cucumbers, sunflowers, okra, hyacinth beans, and sesame.

Vining vegetables can be grown over artichoke crowns that go dormant during hot summers to protect them from the intense heat that might damage the crowns. Grow heat-loving plants on the south or west-facing trellises that shade other plants. 

Not sure how much sun your veggies need? Check out this guide on Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun) to help your garden thrive.

Other ideas for adding shade:

Here are some pictures I took from my previous gardens or other gardens that have added shade. You may get some ideas or inspiration to implement in your own garden.

Source:

Bootstrap Farmer’s Guide to Shadecloth

If this post about how to add shade to your garden was helpful, please share it.

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The challenge with vegetable gardening in the low desert of Arizona comes when temperatures soar in the hot, dry summer months. It can be challenging, but don’t give up! It is possible to have a productive vegetable garden in hot climates like Arizona during the summer heat. Here are the essentials for summer gardening in Arizona and other hot climates.

Gardening in the low desert summer can be tough, but with the right strategies your plants can survive—and even thrive. My Desert Gardening page shares tips for creating shade, watering wisely, and choosing heat-tolerant vegetables, fruits, and herbs. With everything in one place, it’s your go-to resource for keeping the garden growing through the hottest months.

Article Index:

1. Plant Heat-Loving Varieties
2. Provide Shade
3. Water Correctly
4. Mulch
5. Adjust Expectations
6. Consider Taking the Summer Off

6 Tips for Summer Gardening in Arizona

1. Plant Heat-Loving Varieties for a Summer Vegetable Garden in the Low Desert of Arizona

When summer vegetable gardening in Arizona, choosing suitable vegetables and planting them at the correct time is a matter of life and death for the plants. Use this Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide. Select varieties that mature quickly.

A few vegetables survive and even thrive in our intense summers. Here are a few of my favorites:

• Asparagus beans thrive in the heat and produce all summer. Plant from March through the beginning of July in the low desert of Arizona. For more information about growing asparagus beans, read this post.
• Malabar Spinach. Plant from March through May in the low desert and harvest it all summer and fall. For more information about growing Malabar spinach, read this post.
• Armenian cucumbers are a long, slender fruit in the melon family that taste like a cucumber and look like a cucumber inside. Plant them in the low desert of Arizona from the end of February through the beginning of July. For more information about growing Armenian cucumbers, read this post.
• Sweet Potatoes grow best in hot weather—plant transplants or slips from the end of March through June in the low desert of Arizona. For more information about growing sweet potatoes, read this post.
• Other crops that grow well in a vegetable garden during the summer in Arizona are okra, basil, tepary beans, and melons, particularly desert-adapted varieties such as Chimayo melons.

June marks the start of summer gardening challenges. Here’s what to plant and harvest in June in Arizona to help your garden thrive.

Use this Arizona Vegetable Planting Calendar for a month-by-month guide to planting in the low desert.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

2. Provide Shade for Summer Vegetable Gardens in Arizona

The sun’s intense rays in the hottest months of the year are too much for most plants. Shade cloth, sunflowers, and vining plants can all be used to provide shade for tomatoes, bell peppers, newly-planted plants, and other plants that prefer shade when summer gardening in Arizona.

Wondering if your garden really needs shade? In Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer, I share how shade protects plants, conserves water, and extends your growing season.

Shade Cloth for Summer Gardening in Arizona

If you are growing a vegetable garden during the summer in Arizona and the garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely enclosing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun throughout the day. For example, attach shade cloth to existing trellises with zip ties.

Sunflowers Can Shade Arizona Summer Gardens

Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety, can offer shade to surrounding plants. Plant sunflowers from February through July. Learn how to grow sunflowers in this guide.

Vining Plants Can Shade Arizona Summer Gardens

When growing a vegetable garden during the summer in Arizona, consider planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, luffa, malabar spinach, etc.) purposely to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice areas in your garden that could utilize plants as shade. For example, vining vegetables can be grown over artichoke crowns that go dormant during hot summers to protect them from intense heat that might damage the crowns.

Want more ideas for creating shade in your summer garden? This article shares more of my favorite tips. 

Not sure how much sun your veggies need? Check out this guide on Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun) to help your garden thrive.

3. Water Arizona Summer Gardens Correctly

Watering summer vegetable gardens in Arizona correctly is the most critical care you can give your plants. Problems in the garden are often traced back to watering issues. 

Observing your plants and soil is the best way to determine how much you should water. There is no set time for everyone to water because many factors are involved (sun, shade, air temp, microclimate, age and size of the plant, etc.).

Principles to consider when watering:

• Water deep and wide enough to moisten the plant’s root system. Let the top inch of soil dry out before you water again.
• Monitor plants for signs of underwatering stress (leaf curl, wilted or dropped leaves, branch dieback) to help you determine how often to water. Plants require more water in dry, windy, and summer heat.
• Do not overwater. Plants that wilt in the afternoon but recover by morning suffer heat stress, not water stress. Take care to add more moisture so as not to cause root rot. Allow plants to develop some heat tolerance by not overwatering.
• Salt builds up in the soil where the watering level ends. Occasionally water deeply to flush the salts out of the root zone and ground.
• Water the soil not the plant. Avoid putting water on the leaves because of the salt content in our water.
• Water in the morning. Plants absorb moisture more effectively in the morning. 
• Some type of automatic watering system is best.  Try to be in the garden when the system is on so you can be aware of any issues. I use the watering grids from Garden in Minutes  (Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.)
• Consider adding ollas. Ollas are a form of plant irrigation that slowly provides water at the roots as the water seeps out of the terra cotta pot that is buried underground. You refill the olla as it empties.
• Get tips for the best way to water raised beds in this guide.

4. Mulch Summer Gardens in Arizona

Mulch, mulch, and mulch your vegetable garden during Arizona summers. Use compost, pine needles, or straw around your plants. Growing a vegetable garden during the summer in Arizona means adding mulch. Learn more about what to use for mulch in this guide.

Here are a few of the many reasons to mulch: 

• It insulates the soil and keeps the temperatures even.
• Mulching slows evaporation, allowing plants access to more water.
• Mulching keeps the soil from developing a hard crust that is difficult for irrigation to soak into.
• Weeds are less likely to sprout. When you mulch, your plants won’t compete with weeds for water and nutrients.
• As the mulch decomposes, it adds organic matter and nutrients to the soil.

5. Adjust Expectations for Summer Gardening in Arizona

• Understand your garden will probably not look its best in the summer heat.
• Be aware that pollen in pepper and tomato plants may not be viable when temperatures are over 100°F. The set fruit will continue to mature, but new fruit may not be produced.
• With intense heat, long days, and nights that don’t cool off, many plants go into summer dormancy. They focus on staying alive rather than growing.
• This is not the time to prune, trim, or over-fertilize.
• Stressed plants are more prone to pests and diseases. Monitor plants and consider pulling them if they become overwhelmed so the rest of the garden is not infected.
• Plants may emerge from dormancy during the monsoon season and more humid months of July and August.

New to gardening in the heat? Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates is a great place to start if you’re working with a small space or just want an easier setup to manage.

6. Consider Taking the Summer Off When Gardening in Arizona

Growing a vegetable garden during the summer in Arizona is challenging. If you travel frequently, don’t like the planting options, or would rather not spend extra time outdoors during the hottest time of the year, here are some alternatives:

• Let the garden rest. Cover with a very thick (3-5 inch) layer of mulch and provide some irrigation. Do not let the soil dry out.
• Feed the soil with a cover crop. Learn more about cover crops in this article.
• “Solarize” your soil. Only do this if your soil has significant weed issues, diseases, or nematodes. Solarizing the soil uses the sun’s heat to kill the weed seeds, diseases, or nematodes lurking in the soil. Unfortunately, it also kills the beneficial microbes in the soil.            

A Basic Overview of Solarizing:

• Add manure into the soil & water well. 
• Cover with clear heavy plastic sheeting.
• Bury the edges of the plastic, or hold it down with rocks.
• Allow soil to “bake” in the sun for 6 weeks.
• Read this article from the Arizona Cooperative Extension office for more information about solarizing soil.

Looking for more information about gardening in Arizona?

• Monthly guides for what to do and plant each month of the year in the low desert.
• Seasonal tips for gardening in Arizona.
• Gardening classes focusing on successfully gardening in Arizona.
• If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

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