In this guide, you’ll learn how to hand pollinate squash step by step, when and why it’s needed, and which plants it works for. Hand pollination can mean the difference between a garden full of healthy fruit and one full of withered blossoms.

What We’ll Cover in This Guide

• How to tell if your squash isn’t getting pollinated and why hand pollination might be necessary
• The difference between male and female squash flowers
• Step-by-step instructions for hand pollinating squash using male flowers or a brush
• Best time of day to hand pollinate for the best results
• Common concerns about cross-pollination and seed saving
• Other vegetables and fruits that may need hand pollination
• How to tell the difference between poor pollination and blossom end rot
• Additional resources for growing healthy squash all season

Why Hand Pollinate Squash?

Squash plants depend on pollinators like bees to move pollen from male to female flowers. But early in the season, pollinator activity may be low, or the plant may only produce one type of flower at a time. This leads to poor pollination and fruit that shrivels before developing.

Hand pollination gives you more control and helps ensure early fruit set, especially if:

• Bees and other pollinators are not active in your garden
• The plant is producing only male or only female flowers
• You are growing in a small space or protected area (like a screened-in garden or greenhouse)

Male vs. Female Squash Flowers

Before you can hand-pollinate, it’s important to know how to identify the two types of squash flowers:

• Male flowers have a long, thin stem and a central stamen covered in pollen. They often appear first.

• Female flowers have a small, immature fruit (baby squash) at the base and a central pistil inside the bloom.

You need one male flower and one female flower open at the same time for successful pollination.

When to Hand Pollinate Squash

• The best time to hand-pollinate is in the morning, when the flowers are fully open and the pollen is fresh.
• Squash flowers often close by afternoon, so check early each day for new blossoms.
• Hand pollination is especially helpful early in the season, when flower production is just beginning and fewer pollinators are active.

How to Hand Pollinate Squash (Two Methods)

Method 1: Using a Male Flower

1. Identify a male flower and gently remove it from the plant.
2. Peel back or remove the petals to expose the pollen-covered stamen.
3. Lightly touch the stamen to the center of an open female flower, brushing the pollen onto the pistil.
4. Discard the male flower or save it to use again the next day if the stamen is still intact.

Method 2: Using a Brush or Swab

1. Leave the male flower attached to the plant.
2. Use a small paintbrush or cotton swab to collect pollen from the male stamen.
3. Gently brush the collected pollen onto the pistil inside a female flower.
4. Repeat with other female blossoms if needed.

This method keeps male flowers intact, allowing you to use them for multiple pollinations over a couple of days.

Will Cross-Pollination Affect My Fruit?

You can use any male summer squash to pollinate any female summer squash—cross-pollination will not affect the fruit you harvest this season.

However, if you plan to save seeds:

• Cross-pollination will affect the next generation of plants.
• Seeds from cross-pollinated squash may not grow true to the parent plant.

To maintain pure seed lines, you’ll need to isolate varieties or hand-pollinate and bag flowers for seed-saving purposes. Learn more about how to save seeds in this guide.

Other Plants That May Require Hand Pollination

Hand pollination is useful for many vegetables with separate male and female flowers or limited pollinator access. These include:

• Cucumbers
• Cantaloupe
• Pumpkins
• Gourds
• Watermelon
• Other summer and winter squash

Plants with perfect flowers (containing both male and female parts in one bloom), like tomatoes and peppers, do not need hand pollination but may benefit from vibration or gentle shaking if pollinator activity is low.

Wilting or Rotting at the End of Squash? Here’s What It Might Be

If your squash is shriveling or wilting at the blossom end, it may be due to poor pollination—not necessarily a disease or nutrient deficiency.

• Poor pollination results in small fruit that stop growing and wither before maturing.
• Blossom end rot causes a dark, sunken, leathery spot at the blossom end, often due to inconsistent watering or calcium deficiency.

While both issues affect the same area of the fruit, they have different causes and solutions.

Learn how to identify and prevent blossom end rot here.

FAQ: Hand Pollinating Squash

More Resources on Growing Squash

Explore more squash growing tips in these related blog posts:

• 5 Tips for Growing Summer Squash
• 8 Summer Squash Varieties to Grow
• How to Grow Butternut Squash
• How to Grow Patty Pan Squash
• How to Grow Winter Squash
• Squash Bug Prevention and Organic Control
• How to Grow a Three Sisters Garden in Raised Beds

The post How to Hand Pollinate Squash (Step-by-Step Guide) appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this guide, you’ll learn how to grow summer squash successfully in hot climates. We’ll cover:

• The best time to plant
• Which varieties to choose
• How to plant and care for your squash
• Common problems like pests, pollination issues, and bitter fruit
• And tips for harvesting and preserving your squash

Learn how to grow summer squash in raised beds, containers, or in-ground gardens with these tips.

What’s the Difference Between Summer and Winter Squash?

• Summer squash (mostly Cucurbita pepo) are harvested young before the skin hardens. They are used fresh and have thin, tender skins. Think zucchini, yellow squash, and pattypan.
• Winter squash (C. maxima, C. moschata, etc.) are harvested at full maturity and store well for months. Think butternut, acorn, and spaghetti squash.

Learn how to grow winter squash in this guide.

1. Plant Several Types of Summer Squash

Summer squash comes in all shapes and colors: round, long, scalloped, striped, yellow, green, and gray. Each has a different flavor, texture, and culinary uses.

Favorite Summer Squash Varieties: (click the seed name for seed sources)

• Yellow Crookneck or Straightneck – classic, early maturing, and reliable
• Black Beauty – dark green zucchini, easy and prolific
• Grey Zucchini – great flavor and texture, perfect for calabacitas
• Pattypan (Scallop) – firm texture, good in soups and sautés (get the specifics about how to grow pattypan squash in this guide)
• Tatume – vining heirloom, excellent for stuffing, vines up to 12 feet
• Incredible Escalator – space-saving, climbing zucchini

Looking for more ideas? Here are 8 Summer Squash Varieties to Grow.

Bush types are great for small spaces. I plant them along the edges of beds so they can sprawl into walkways. You can also train bush types vertically with a stake or cage. This method improves airflow and can help reduce the risk of powdery mildew and vine borers.

• Summer squash also plays an important role in the Three Sisters Grow Bag Garden, a traditional companion planting method adapted for containers. You can also try the Three Sisters method in raised beds. The squash’s spreading vines act as a living mulch, helping to shade the soil and suppress weeds.

2. Plant at the Right Time for Your Climate

Summer squash grows best when soil temperatures are consistently warm. The ideal temperature for germination is 86°F (30°C), but seeds will sprout within a range of 60 to 95°F (15 to 35°C).

Start with transplants early in the season while the soil is still warming. Plant young transplants about two weeks after your last frost date. Handle them carefully and avoid disturbing the roots.

Once soil temperatures reach at least 70°F (21°C), summer squash grows best when direct-sown from seed.

In hot climates like the low desert of Arizona, squash is best planted during two windows:

• Spring: mid-February through March (start seeds indoors in January–February)
• Late Summer: mid-August through early September (start seeds indoors in July–August)

For more planting date information, see my Arizona Low Desert Planting Guide.

Spacing Guidelines:

• Square foot gardening: 1 to 2 squares per plant
• Hill planting: 4 to 6 seeds per hill, thin to 2 or 3 plants
• Rows: space 12 to 24 inches apart

Squash prefers full sun. In very hot climates, especially in late spring and summer, afternoon shade can help protect young plants from heat stress.

Hot summer gardening tip: Keep in mind that during periods of extreme heat, squash plants often stop producing or die back completely. Pollen may not be viable, and plants may suffer from heat-related stress. In many cases, it is better to start a new round of squash during the late summer planting window than try to maintain struggling plants through the summer. Starting fresh with healthy plants gives you a better harvest in the fall season.

How to Plant Summer Squash

Soil and Location
Choose a full sun location with well-draining soil. In hot climates, light afternoon shade can help protect young plants from heat stress.

Planting Depth

• Seeds: Plant ½ to 1 inch deep.
• Transplants: Plant just deep enough to cover the root ball. Do not bury the stem.

Planting Tips

Use a stake or cage to support bush types grown vertically.

Summer squash grows well in containers. Choose a container that is at least 12 inches deep. For more container-specific advice, visit: Vegetables That Grow Well in Containers.

3. Fertilize at the Right Time and Water Smart

Fertilize when the first flowers appear. I use this organic fertilizer as needed to support flowering and fruiting.

Squash needs deep, even moisture. Inconsistent watering is one of the top causes of bitter fruit, cracking, and blossom end rot.

Watering Tips:

• Use a watering grid in raised beds to ensure even, efficient water distribution to plant roots.
• In containers, I recommend using oyas—clay vessels that slowly release water to the surrounding soil and help reduce watering frequency.
• Mulch deeply to regulate soil moisture and protect the soil from temperature swings.
• Water deeply and less frequently to encourage strong root development.

Do not assume wilted leaves in the afternoon mean the plant needs water. In hot weather, wilting can be a natural response to heat stress, not a sign of drought. This process is called transpiration.

During the hottest part of the day, squash plants may close the stomata on their leaves to reduce water loss. As a result, the leaves lose turgor pressure and droop or wilt temporarily. This is the plant’s way of protecting itself and conserving moisture.

Before watering, check the soil moisture by sticking your finger into the soil a couple of inches deep. If it still feels moist, it’s best to wait. Plants experiencing temporary heat-related wilting usually recover on their own by evening when temperatures drop and transpiration slows down.

Overwatering based on appearance alone can lead to root rot and other issues, so always check the soil first.

4. Monitor for Pollination Problems and Pests

Pollination

Squash plants produce male and female flowers. Early in the season, it might just be one type (usually males), but be patient. Within a week or two, most plants begin producing both.

• Female flowers have a small fruit at the base.
• Male flowers are on a long, thin stem.

To improve fruit set, grow multiple plants and encourage pollinators. If fruit is not forming, hand-pollination can help.

If bees aren’t visiting your squash blossoms, you can pollinate them by hand to ensure fruit development.

• Identify the flowers:
  Male flowers have a thin stem and a pollen-covered stamen inside.
  Female flowers have a small immature squash at the base and a central pistil.
• Pollinate early in the day:
  Flowers are usually open in the morning and may close by afternoon.
• Transfer the pollen:
  Use a cotton swab, small paintbrush, or the stamen from a male flower to gently brush pollen onto the pistil of a female flower.

One successful pollination is usually enough. Repeat every day or two as new flowers open.

Pests and Disease

What’s the best thing I do daily? Flip squash leaves over and check for problems.

• Remove squash bug eggs by hand.
• Pick off adults or use row covers for prevention.
• Remove leaves with powdery mildew and treat remaining foliage with potassium bicarbonate spray.
• Spray off aphids and whiteflies with water or use insecticidal soap.

Learn more: How to Get Rid of Squash Bugs

Early detection is key. Sometimes it is best to remove a struggling plant entirely to protect the rest of your garden.

5. Harvest Early and Often

Squash grows quickly and is best when picked small and tender. Check plants daily.

• The ideal harvest size for most varieties is 6 to 8 inches long.
• Cut the stem cleanly with a knife or pruners, or twist off.
• Frequent harvesting encourages more fruit.
• Oversized squash have tougher skin and more seeds.

Grate and freeze extra squash or preserve it using freeze-drying. Summer squash also stores in the fridge for about a week.

Looking for ways to use your harvest? Try my favorite recipes:

• Zucchini Lemon Poppy Seed Bread
• Carla’s Calabacitas

Final Thoughts

Summer squash is productive, quick to grow, and surprisingly rewarding. When you:

• Plant a mix of varieties
• Time your plantings just right
• Water deeply and consistently
• Watch your flowers and leaves closely
• Harvest often

You will enjoy a steady supply of delicious squash throughout the season.

If this post helped you, please share it with a fellow gardener or on social media.
Have a favorite summer squash variety or recipe? Let me know in the comments below.

The post How to Grow Summer Squash: 5 Essential Tips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this guide, you’ll learn how to grow peanuts successfully, with planting tips, raised bed advice, and special considerations for hot, dry climates like Arizona.

In this post, you’ll learn:

• How peanuts grow
• General growing information
• Special tips for hot, dry climates
• Growing peanuts in raised beds
• When to harvest peanuts in Arizona
• Answers to frequently asked questions about growing peanuts

How Do Peanuts Grow?

Peanuts are unique legumes. Unlike beans and peas, peanuts flower above ground but form their seeds underground. After flowering, the peanut plant produces a peg—a slender stem that grows downward into the soil. Peanuts develop at the end of these pegs beneath the soil surface.

How to Grow Peanuts: General Growing Information

When to Plant Peanuts

• General Timing: Plant peanuts after the last frost when soil temperatures are consistently above 65°F (18°C).
• Low Desert (Arizona) Planting Dates: Mid-March through April is ideal.

Find more planting dates for Arizona in my Low Desert Planting Guides and Calendars.

Where to Plant Peanuts

Peanuts need full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily). Choose a spot with loose, sandy loam soil rich in organic matter. Raised beds are ideal because they provide excellent drainage and loose soil structure for peanuts to form easily underground.

Soil Preparation

Peanuts prefer well-draining, loose soil. Incorporate compost and worm castings into your soil to enhance nutrients and soil structure. You can use my favorite soil mix. Raised beds are particularly beneficial because they allow peanuts to form and mature without soil compaction.

Planting Peanuts

• Plant peanuts 1½–2 inches (4–5 cm) deep.
• Space seeds 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart in rows about 24–36 inches (61–91 cm) apart.
• Square Foot Gardening Spacing: Plant 1-4 peanut plants per square foot.

Remove peanuts gently from their shells before planting, taking care not to damage the seeds to ensure the best germination.

Extra Tips for Growing Peanuts in Hot, Dry Climates

• Mulching is Essential: Apply a light layer of straw or organic mulch around your plants to conserve moisture, regulate soil temperature, and minimize weed growth. Avoid heavy mulching directly beneath the plant to ensure peanut pegs can easily reach the soil.
• Water Wisely: Peanuts require consistent moisture but don’t like waterlogged conditions. Use drip irrigation or ollas to provide steady moisture at the root zone.
• Shade Cloth: Consider using shade cloth during extreme heat waves to prevent plants from getting stressed.

Apply mulch lightly around peanut plants to conserve moisture, but avoid piling it too deeply under the plants so the peanut pegs can easily reach the soil.

Growing Peanuts in Raised Beds

• Ensure your raised beds are at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep to give peanuts adequate room to grow.
• Keep soil loose and avoid stepping on it to prevent compaction.
• Raised beds make harvesting peanuts easier and protect them from pests like gophers and moles.

Consistent moisture is crucial, especially when peanuts are flowering and pegs are developing. Drip irrigation or oyas help deliver water right where the plants need it most.

When to Harvest Peanuts

Peanuts generally take about 120–150 days from planting to harvest. In Arizona, peanuts planted in March or April are typically ready by late summer or early fall. Peanuts are ready to harvest when the leaves begin to yellow, usually around 4–5 months after planting.

To harvest, loosen the soil around the plant carefully and lift it out, shaking off excess dirt. Allow peanuts to dry on the plant for 2–3 weeks in a dry, shaded area.

Wait! Don’t remove the peanuts from the plant after harvesting. Let them stay attached until fully dry (2-3 weeks). This improves flavor and extends storage life.

FAQ: How to Grow Peanuts

Enjoy growing this fascinating and delicious crop in your garden!

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Peanuts: Complete Guide & Tips for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

But what should you do next? Should you prune it back, feed it, or start over with a new plant? This guide will help you evaluate your tomato plants and decide the best course of action for a productive fall season.

What We Will Cover:

• Step 1: Evaluate Your Tomato Plants
• Step 2: Understand What Happens to Tomatoes During Summer
• Step 3: Know When It’s Time to Act
• Step 4: Prune Based on the Plant’s Condition
• Step 5: Feed and Refresh the Soil
• Step 6: Watch and Adjust
• Recap

Step 1: Evaluate Your Tomato Plants

Before you prune or feed, take a close look at your tomato plants and decide whether they’re worth saving or better off replaced.

Start by asking:

1. Is there new, healthy growth coming from the base or lower branches?

• Yes: This is a good sign. The plant may have gone dormant during summer but is coming back with monsoon moisture. It’s likely worth keeping.
• No: If there’s no new growth, the plant may be too far gone.

2. Are the upper branches just sun-damaged or leggy, but the plant otherwise looks alive?

• Yes: You can likely save it with some light pruning and care.
• No: Move on to the next questions.

3. Is the plant diseased, severely stressed, or covered in pests?

• Yes: It’s best to remove the plant and start fresh with a new transplant in a new location. Don’t compost the removed plant material—diseased or infested tomato plants can carry problems into the next season.
• No: Keep evaluating.

4. Are most branches completely dried out, dead, or not producing?

• Yes: It’s probably better to remove and replant.
• No: If there’s a mix of healthy and struggling growth, light pruning and support may help the plant rebound.

Bottom line: If the plant shows healthy new growth, isn’t infested or diseased, and still has some productive potential, it may be worth reviving. Otherwise, it’s better to remove it and replant.

Use this guide to choose the best tomato varieties for Arizona.
Then follow this guide to plant tomatoes the right way.

Step 2: Understand What Happens to Tomatoes During Summer

In the heat of summer, especially in low desert areas like Phoenix, tomato plants often go dormant. You may notice:

• Very little new growth
• Blossoms that don’t set fruit
• Small, curled leaves
• Sunscald on existing fruit

But don’t give up, once slightly cooler temperatures arrive, you may see signs of life. This is the window when over-summered tomatoes can bounce back and produce again.

Step 3: Know When It’s Time to Act

Timing matters.

Tomatoes generally won’t set fruit if temperatures are too high, especially if nighttime lows stay above 80°F (27°C). Even if the daytime highs are below 105°F (40°C), it’s the nighttime temperatures in the 70s that signal to the plant it’s safe to begin setting fruit again.

If you’ve reached that point (and your plant is showing signs of life), it might be worth investing time into reviving it.

Tip: Shade, mulch, and microclimates can help protect plants when temperatures are borderline.

Step 4: Prune Based on the Plant’s Condition

Once you’ve decided your tomato plant is worth saving, the next step is to prune with purpose—but not too aggressively, especially in the heat.

If your plant has healthy new growth near the base or along the stems:

You may not need to do much. Focus on light shaping:

• Remove any sun-damaged, yellowing, or crispy leaves.
• Snip off any branches above the new growth that are no longer productive. This helps direct energy to the healthy parts of the plant.
• If the plant is leggy or flopping over, use this time to gently guide it back into a supported, upright shape.

Tip: Always use clean pruners, and prune in the early morning to reduce stress on the plant.

If your plant is overgrown, has a lot of dead branches, or looks wild and unproductive:

Take a more gradual approach:

• Start by pruning just one-third of the plant at a time.
• Focus on removing clearly dead or diseased branches first.
• Give the plant a few days to respond before making further cuts.
• Continue pruning over the course of 1 to 2 weeks, allowing the plant to adjust while temperatures are still high.

Cutting too much at once can shock the plant, especially in hot weather. A slow approach gives it the best chance to bounce back.

For more pruning tips after winter stress or seasonal changes, check out this guide.

Step 5: Feed and Refresh the Soil

After pruning, it’s time to rebuild strength in the soil and the plant.

1. Pull back any mulch
2. Add a layer of compost and worm castings
3. Apply a light dose of a balanced organic fertilizer (if needed)
4. Supplement with a liquid feed like Nutrient+ to speed recovery
5. Water deeply and consistently

Nutrient+ can effectively support tomatoes during this recovery period. It’s made from emulsified black soldier fly larvae and contains a blend of nutrients and natural biostimulants that help plants recover from heat stress, pruning, and even broken branches. Purchase it in person at Arizona Worm Farm or online here.

To use Nutrient+: Mix 3 cups of Nutrient+ with water to fill a 1-gallon container, and apply directly to the soil around the base of each plant. Use weekly if there are signs of stress. Monthly after that.

Why I like using Nutrient+:
– Feeds the plant with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace nutrients
– Improves soil health and encourages new growth and flowering
– Helps plants bounce back from heat, sunburn, or damage
– Sustainable and made from food waste, it’s a great alternative to fish-based fertilizers

It is especially helpful for over-summered tomatoes (or any stressed plant) that need a boost as they begin to grow again.

Learn more about how to grow tomatoes successfully in Arizona.

Step 6: Watch and Adjust

Not every plant will recover the same way. Some may rebound quickly and begin setting fruit again in just a few weeks. Others may limp along and not be worth the effort.

Pay attention. If the plant continues to show new growth and looks healthy, keep caring for it. If it starts declining or shows signs of disease, it’s okay to remove it and replant.

Experience is a great teacher. As you watch how your tomatoes respond to pruning, feeding, and care, you’ll gain confidence in what to do next time.

Quick Recap:

– Only revive plants with healthy new growth and no major pest or disease issues.
– Prune gradually, no more than one-third at a time while it’s still hot.
– Remove dead or sun-damaged growth, especially above new growth.
– Use compost, worm castings, and a balanced fertilizer to refresh the soil.
– Feed with Nutrient+ to speed recovery and support fruiting.
– Wait until nighttime temps are in the 70s before expecting new fruit to set.
– Don’t compost removed tomato plants or prunings.
– When in doubt, it’s okay to start fresh with a healthy transplant in a new spot.

Have Questions?

Leave a comment below. I’d love to hear how your over-summered tomatoes are doing.

The post How to Revive and Prune Over-Summered Tomatoes in Arizona appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Choose Healthy Tomato Transplants

Start with strong, healthy tomato transplants. Look for plants with vibrant green leaves, a thick, sturdy stem, and no signs of pests or disease. Avoid transplants that are leggy, have yellowing leaves, or are already flowering.

If you started your own tomato plants from seed, be sure to harden them off properly before planting to reduce transplant shock. Learn how to harden off transplants in this blog post.

If you’re planting when temperatures are still hot (like during Arizona’s fall planting window), choose larger transplants with a well-developed rootball. These plants are more resilient in the heat—their roots can reach deeper moisture and are less likely to dry out quickly.

If you’re gardening in Arizona or another hot climate, choosing the right variety is key to success. Some types of tomatoes struggle in extreme heat. Read this guide to find the best tomato varieties for the desert.

Tip: Look for determinate varieties for earlier harvests, or heat-tolerant indeterminate types for longer production during Arizona’s two growing seasons.

Amend the Soil Before Planting Tomatoes

Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so preparing the soil is essential for a healthy, productive plant.
Before planting, top the planting area with a generous layer of worm castings and compost.

If your soil is low in nutrients, apply a balanced organic fertilizer and follow the package directions for application rates. This article explains more about how to prepare your soil for planting.

If you’re planting in raised beds or containers, starting with the right soil is key. Here’s my guide to the best soil mix for raised bed vegetable gardening.

Avoid overloading the soil with nitrogen-rich amendments. Too much nitrogen promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. Choose a balanced fertilizer like 4-4-4 or 5-5-5 when amending soil for tomatoes

Select a Sunny Location

Tomatoes thrive in full sun. Choose a spot that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Sunlight is essential for flowering and fruit production.

If you’re planting monsoon-season tomatoes, pay close attention to the angle of the sun. As fall approaches and days get shorter, areas that were once sunny may become shaded. Even though it’s still hot, plant in your sunniest location to give your tomatoes enough light to keep producing into fall and early winter. You can always provide temporary shade during the hottest part of the day if needed.

Also consider frost pockets. Are there areas in your yard more prone to freezing? Avoid those for fall-planted tomatoes if you hope to extend your harvest.

For spring-planted tomatoes, look for a location that gets strong morning sun and possibly some afternoon shade, especially in hot climates like Arizona.

It’s also important to rotate your tomato planting area each season. Growing tomatoes in the same spot year after year can lead to a buildup of soil-borne pests and diseases.

Tip: In small gardens, consider growing tomatoes in large containers or raised beds that can be moved or adjusted to maximize sunlight and minimize the risk from cold snaps.

Provide Support for Tomatoes

Tomatoes are vining plants that need support to grow well. Without it, branches can break under the weight of the fruit, and foliage that touches the soil is more prone to disease.

Indeterminate tomatoes grow tall and need a strong, tall trellis or cage to stay upright and productive. Determinate varieties like Roma are more compact and often do well with a large tomato cage.

I use the Garden in Minutes Tomato Cages in my garden. They are tall, sturdy, and can be used in raised beds, in-ground gardens, and containers. They fold flat for easy storage and last for years. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off orders over $100, or code ANGELA to save 7% on any order.

Providing support early keeps plants growing upright and makes pruning, harvesting, and checking for pests easier throughout the season. Install supports at the time of planting if possible to avoid damaging roots later.

Give Tomatoes Enough Room to Grow
Space tomato plants about 2 feet (60 cm) apart to give them room to grow and spread. Good spacing improves air circulation, which helps prevent issues like powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.

Crowded plants are more likely to develop problems and are harder to prune, water, and harvest.

Tip: In smaller spaces or container gardens, pruning lower leaves and using vertical supports can help maximize airflow and reduce disease risk even if spacing is tight.

Prepare the Planting Hole

Tomatoes develop roots along their buried stems, so planting deeply helps create a stronger, more resilient plant. The soil should be at least 12 to 18 inches deep (30 to 45 cm) to support deep rooting and stable soil temperatures.

Dig a hole deep enough to bury the stem up to the top few sets of leaves. If your soil isn’t deep enough to plant vertically, lay the plant on its side in a trench and gently bend the top upward. Both methods encourage strong root development.

Plant Tomatoes Deeply

Before planting, remove the lower leaves from the transplant, leaving just the top few sets. Place the plant in the hole so that the stem is buried up to those remaining leaves.

Tomatoes form roots along the buried stem, which helps anchor the plant and improves its access to water and nutrients. Whether planting vertically or laying the stem sideways in a trench, deep planting leads to stronger, healthier plants.

Tip: Gently firm the soil around the base after planting to eliminate air pockets and support the stem.

Fill and Water

After placing the transplant in the hole, fill it with the displaced soil, pressing gently to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly to help the plant settle in and ensure the roots make good contact with the soil.

Tip: In hot climates like Arizona, soil dries out quickly. It’s important to keep the root zone consistently moist while the plant is getting established.

In containers, using an olla can help maintain even moisture. I use GrowOya ollas in my garden. In raised beds, I rely on the Garden in Minutes watering grids for even and efficient watering.

However you water, don’t let new transplants dry out. Monitor them closely for the first couple of weeks. Once you begin to see new growth, that’s a sign the plant is settling in. At that point, shift to deep, less frequent watering to encourage strong, deep root development.

Remove Early Tomato Blossoms and Add Mulch

As tempting as it is to let those first flowers develop, remove any blossoms during the first 2 to 3 weeks after planting. This allows the plant to put its energy into developing strong roots and healthy foliage, setting the stage for better production later in the season.

Once the plant is in and watered, add 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of mulch around the base. Mulch helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce weed growth. Learn more about mulching in this article.

In hot climates, mulching is essential to help your tomato plants survive and thrive. Organic mulches like shredded leaves, straw, or pine needles work well and break down to improve the soil over time.

Monitor Young Plants

Once your tomatoes are planted, don’t walk away. The first few weeks are critical for helping them get established.

Water as needed, especially in hot or windy conditions. Watch for signs of stress like wilted leaves or sunscald, and provide temporary shade if planting during hot weather.

Keep an eye out for pests and disease. Early intervention can prevent bigger problems down the road.

Adjust or add support as the plant grows, and prune any damaged or yellowing lower leaves to improve airflow and reduce disease pressure.

As you begin to see new growth, it’s a good sign your tomato plant is adjusting well. From here, continue with regular deep watering, occasional feeding, and pruning if needed.

Bonus Tip: Add Companion Plants

I love planting marigolds, alyssum, and basil around my tomatoes.

• Alyssum attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies that help keep pests in check.
• Marigolds help deter pests like nematodes and aphids.
• Basil not only grows well alongside tomatoes but may even improve their flavor.

Adding companion plants is a simple way to support pollinators, manage pests naturally, and make your garden more beautiful and productive.

Want to learn more? Read my guide to companion planting.

These steps for planting tomatoes will give your tomato plants the best possible start and hopefully give you basketsful of harvested tomatoes. Read the complete guide to pruning peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants after winter here.

More Tomato Growing Resources on My Blog:

• How to Grow Tomatoes in Arizona – 10 Tips for Growing Tomatoes
• Prevent Blossom End Rot: Tips for Healthy Tomatoes
• Turning Green Tomatoes Red: 4 Ways to Ripen Green Tomatoes
• Tomatoes for the Desert: Best Varieties for Arizona
• How to Revive and Prune Over-Summered Tomatoes in Arizona

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The post How to Plant Tomatoes: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If you’ve never grown them yourself, or if you think you don’t like them, learning how to grow lima beans might just change your mind. Homegrown lima beans taste nothing like their store-bought counterparts and are a nutritious, versatile, and productive addition to your garden.

In this post, I’ll walk you through how to grow lima beans from seed to harvest, with practical tips for gardeners in all climates, including strategies that work especially well in hot and dry regions.

What We Will Cover

• Best Soil for Lima Beans
• When to Plant Lima Beans
• Growing Lima Beans from Seed
• Providing Support for Lima Beans
• Watering and Caring for Lima Beans
• How Long Do Lima Beans Take to Grow?
• How to Harvest Lima Beans
• Growing Lima Beans in Containers
• Special Tips for Growing Lima Beans in Hot Climates
• FAQ: How to Grow Lima Beans

Best Soil for Lima Beans

Lima beans thrive in loose, well-draining soil that’s rich in organic matter. Aim for a neutral soil pH of 6.0–7.0. Before planting, mix in compost or aged manure to boost nutrients and drainage.

In desert areas like Arizona, adding compost is crucial. It improves moisture retention and helps moderate soil temperatures.

When to Plant Lima Beans

Plant lima beans once the danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures reach at least 65°F (18°C).

General planting times:

• Cool and temperate climates: Plant in late spring or early summer.
• Warmer climates: Plant early enough to harvest before extreme heat arrives or wait for late summer planting.

Low desert planting times:

• Late March–April (early spring planting can struggle in intense summer heat)
• July–August (preferred timing, coinciding with monsoon moisture)

For more details about planting timing, check out my low desert planting guide.

Growing Lima Beans from Seed

Lima beans grow easily from seed planted directly in the garden. Here’s how:

1. Choose a sunny spot with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily.
2. Space seeds about 4–6 inches apart (5–9 plants per square foot).
3. Plant seeds 1–1½ inches deep.
4. Water well after planting to ensure good soil-to-seed contact.

For helpful tips on starting seeds outdoors successfully, see how to plant seeds.

Providing Support for Lima Beans

Pole lima beans grow tall—often over 6 feet—and require strong support, like a trellis, fence, or teepee. Even bush types benefit from a little support to help keep pods off the ground.

Learn more ideas for supporting climbing plants in my vertical gardening article.

Watering and Caring for Lima Beans

Keep lima beans consistently watered, especially during flowering and pod development. Typically, beans need about an inch of water each week. Using drip irrigation or a watering grid can ensure even and efficient watering.

In hot climates, mulching is vital. A thick layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture and keep roots cool, minimizing plant stress.

How Long Do Lima Beans Take to Grow?

Lima beans typically take between 65 and 85 days from planting to harvest, depending on variety and growing conditions.

Recommended varieties:

• Bush varieties: Mature faster (60–70 days) and stay compact.
  • Henderson’s Bush (65 days)
  • Fordhook 242 (75 days)
• Pole varieties: More productive over a longer period (75–85 days).
  • Christmas (78 days, beautiful speckled beans)
  • King of the Garden (85 days, productive and vigorous)

How to Harvest Lima Beans

Lima beans offer two distinct harvesting stages:

Fresh Shelling Beans:

• Harvest pods when they’re plump and green, but before pods begin to yellow.
• Fresh lima beans are sweet and tender. Refrigerate unshelled pods for up to two weeks, or shell and freeze for long-term storage.

Dry Lima Beans:

• Allow pods to fully mature and dry on the vine until pods are brown and brittle.
• Remove beans from pods and store dried beans in a cool, dry place for up to a year or longer.

Cooking Tips: Fresh beans cook quickly and require less soaking, while dry beans need overnight soaking and longer cooking.

Growing Lima Beans in Containers

Bush lima beans are ideal for container growing. Use pots at least 12 inches deep with good drainage, and always provide support. Containers dry out quickly, especially in hot climates, so check moisture regularly and water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry.

Want to make watering easier?

For consistent moisture and reduced watering frequency, consider using an olla like the ones I use from Growoya. It’s especially helpful during hot weather when container soil can dry out quickly.

Special Tips for Growing Lima Beans in Hot Climates

• Consider planting pole varieties during summer monsoons—they handle heat well and provide shade to their roots.
• Mulch thickly to protect against extreme temperatures.
• Provide afternoon shade if possible, especially during peak summer heat.

If you’re enjoying growing lima beans, consider learning how to grow peanuts as well. They both thrive in similar warm conditions.

For more bean-growing resources specifically tailored to hot climates, check out my detailed guides on:

• Growing beans (general guide)
• Fava beans
• Tepary beans
• Asparagus beans (yardlong beans)
• Borlotti beans
• Black Eyed Peas
• Edamame
• Purple Hyacinth Bean Vine

FAQ: How to Grow Lima Beans

Lima beans can be incredibly productive once established, even in challenging hot climates. By following these guidelines, you can enjoy abundant harvests of nutritious beans season after season. Happy planting!

If this post about how to grow lima beans was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Lima Beans: Complete Guide & Tips for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to grow edamame successfully, share harvesting tips, and answer common questions.

What We Will Cover:

• When to Plant Edamame Seeds
• Best Soil for Edamame
• How to Plant Edamame
• Edamame Growing Tips for Success
• How Long Does It Take to Grow Edamame?
• Harvesting Edamame Beans
• Edamame Harvesting Time & Storage
• Other Beans to Grow
• FAQ: How to Grow Edamame

When to Plant Edamame Seeds

General planting dates:
Plant edamame seeds outdoors after your area’s last frost date, once the soil warms up (typically late spring through early summer).

Low-desert planting dates:
Edamame grows best in the low desert if planted during two key windows:

• Late March through April
• August through September

For more details about planting timing, check out my low desert planting guide.

In hot climates like Arizona, getting this timing right is essential. Planting too early risks frost damage; planting too late exposes your plants to intense summer heat.

Best Soil for Edamame

Edamame thrives in loose, fertile, and well-draining soil. Aim for slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH around 6.0–7.0).

To improve your garden soil:

• Add organic compost or aged manure before planting.
• Incorporate worm castings to boost nutrients and soil structure.

Edamame benefits from regular moisture, so ensure your soil retains moisture without becoming waterlogged.

Tip: I use watering grids to maintain consistent moisture levels for my edamame. Check out the watering grids I use here.

How to Plant Edamame

• Spacing: For square-foot gardening, plant 1–4 edamame plants per square foot.
• Seed depth: Plant seeds about 1–1½ inches (2.5–4 cm) deep.
• Watering: Water thoroughly after planting. Keep soil evenly moist, especially during flowering and pod development.

Edamame Growing Tips for Success

• Edamame is sensitive to frost and extreme heat. Protect young plants from unexpected late frost with row covers.
• Mulch around plants to retain moisture, control weeds, and moderate soil temperature.
• Avoid overhead watering to reduce fungal disease risks.
• Edamame plants may require some support as they grow taller. Edamame typically grows 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) tall. I use bamboo poles to help keep them upright and healthy.

How Long Does It Take to Grow Edamame?

From planting seeds to harvesting pods typically takes about 75–90 days. Timing varies slightly by variety and weather conditions.

In warm climates like Arizona’s low desert, you may see slightly faster growth if temperatures remain consistently warm (but not hot).

Harvesting Edamame Beans

Harvest edamame when pods are bright green, plump, and fully filled, typically about 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) long. Test a pod first by gently squeezing it; it should feel firm and well-filled.

Edamame pods mature simultaneously, making it possible (and convenient!) to harvest the entire plant at once:

Whole-plant harvesting: Cut the plant at the base when pods reach peak ripeness. This method simplifies harvesting, especially when growing multiple plants.

Edamame Harvesting Time & Storage

Harvest edamame beans promptly to avoid over-maturity. Overripe beans lose their sweetness and tenderness.

Using and storing edamame:

• Fresh edamame pods taste best steamed or boiled lightly and salted.
• Store fresh pods refrigerated in airtight bags for up to a week.
• For longer storage, blanch pods in boiling water for 2–3 minutes, cool quickly in ice water, drain, and freeze in airtight containers or freezer bags.

Pro Tip: Blanching stops the enzymes that cause beans to lose flavor, texture, and color in storage. It also kills surface bacteria and helps preserve that just-picked taste.

Looking for another nutritious and protein-packed crop to try? Check out this guide on how to grow peanuts, a fun choice that also loves warm weather.

Other Beans to Grow

Edamame beans are just one delicious choice. If you enjoy growing beans, here are some other types to try, each with their own growing and harvesting methods:

• Fava Beans: Cover Crop and Edible Harvest
• Bush & Pole Beans
• Asparagus Beans (Yardlong Beans)
• Tepary Beans
• Borlotti Beans
• Black Eyed Peas
• Purple Hyacinth Bean Vine
• Lima Beans

FAQ: How to Grow Edamame

Final Tips on Growing Edamame

Edamame can be tricky because they don’t handle extreme temperatures well. But once you get the timing right, you’ll be rewarded with delicious, nutritious beans fresh from your garden.

Have you tried growing edamame? I’d love to hear about your experience or answer your questions below.

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Edamame appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What we will cover:

• When to Plant Tomatillos
• How to Plant Tomatillos
• Why isn’t my Tomatillo Producing Fruit?
• How to Care for Tomatillos as They Grow
• Common Tomatillo Pests and Diseases
• When to Harvest Tomatillos
• Favorite Ways to Use Tomatillos

When to Plant Tomatillos

Tomatillos require a long growing season, so it’s wise to start seeds indoors or purchase healthy transplants from a local nursery to ensure your tomatillos have ample time to grow and produce a bountiful harvest.

If starting from seed indoors, start seeds 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost. Not sure when your last frost date is? Enter your zip code into this Frost Date Calculator.

Seeds are available from Seedsnow.com.

The ideal time to plant tomatillos is when the danger of frost has passed, and the soil temperature reaches at least 60°F (15.5°C). Tomatillos prefer warm soil (70-80℉ / 21-26°C) and are frost and cold-sensitive. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperature before planting.

Tomatillos love warmth, and so do peanuts. Check out this guide on how to grow peanuts if you’re looking to expand your warm-season garden.

In the low desert of Arizona:

• Start seeds indoors: December – January and May – July
• Plant transplants outside: February 15 – March and July 15 – September

How to Plant Tomatillos

When transplanting seedlings outdoors, ensure they are spaced 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (1 m) apart to provide ample room for growth. Tomatillos thrive in well-draining, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Amend your soil with compost or well-rotted manure. For square-foot gardening, allow 4 squares per plant.

Tomatillo means “little tomato” in Spanish, and just like tomatoes, tomatillos can be planted deeply – up to the top leaves of the plant. Roots will form along the stem of the buried tomatillo and feed the growing plant. Get more information about how to plant tomatoes in this guide.

Give tomatillos plenty of room, support & sunlight

When planting tomatillos, give them plenty of room to grow and support to climb. Tomatillo plants can reach up to 5 feet (1.5 m) in height and 3 feet (1 m) in width, so make sure you give them enough space for their roots to spread out.

As tomatillo plants grow, they can become quite heavy with fruit. Provide support by staking or using tomato cages to keep branches off the ground and prevent damage. Get vertical support ideas in this guide.

Tomatillos also need plenty of sunlight, so choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun each day.

Provide afternoon shade for tomatillos if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona. This post shares ways to add shade to your garden.

Why isn’t my Tomatillo Producing Fruit?

One essential tip for successfully growing tomatillos is to always plant at least two plants near each other. Unlike other plants, tomatillos are not self-fruitful and require cross-pollination to produce fruit. By planting a minimum of two tomatillo plants in proximity, you’ll ensure that pollinators can easily transfer pollen between them, leading to a plentiful harvest.

Encourage pollinators like bees and butterflies to visit your garden by planting flowers nearby. This will help ensure successful cross-pollination and fruit set.

How to Care for Tomatillos as They Grow

• Tomatillos need even moisture to prevent blossom end rot. The soil should be well-draining. Water regularly during dry periods. Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to root rot.
• Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of your plants to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
• Don’t give tomatillos supplemental nitrogen, as this can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit production. Instead, provide a balanced, organic fertilizer high in phosphorous and potassium to encourage healthy fruiting as needed. To determine whether your soil is lacking these essential nutrients, consider conducting a soil test.
• Remove any suckers (small shoots growing from the base of the plant) and lower leaves that touch the ground to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of disease.

Common Tomatillo Pests and Diseases

Like other plants, Tomatillos can fall prey to various pests and diseases.

Common pests that may affect your tomatillo plants:

• Aphids: These tiny insects suck sap from plant leaves, causing them to curl and distort. They can also spread plant viruses.
• Tomato Hornworms: These large green caterpillars can cause significant damage to tomatillo foliage. Handpick them from your plants or use a natural pesticide like Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control their population.
• Flea Beetles: These small black beetles chew tiny holes in the leaves. Use floating row covers to protect young plants, or apply diatomaceous earth.
• Whiteflies: These small white insects feed on plant sap, leading to yellowing leaves and stunted growth. Control whiteflies with sticky traps.
• Cutworms: These caterpillars feed on the stems of young plants at ground level, causing them to collapse. Protect your plants by placing collars around the base of the stem or applying diatomaceous earth.
• Spider Mites: These tiny pests can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out. Increase humidity around your plants.
• Three-lined Cucumber Beetles: These beetles feed on the foliage and flowers of various plants, including tomatillos, causing significant damage and potentially spreading bacterial wilt.

Methods to manage and prevent pest damage on tomatillo plants:

• Regularly inspect your tomatillo plants for signs of pests; early detection is key to successfully keeping them in check.
• Physical barriers: Use floating row covers to protect your plants, especially during the early stages of growth when they are most vulnerable.
• Beneficial insects: Encourage natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps by planting diverse flowering plants in your garden.
• Trap crops: Plant attractive trap crops, such as borage, near your tomatillos to lure pests away from your main crop. Read this blog post for more companion planting ideas.
• Handpicking: Be vigilant about checking your tomatillo plants and handpick beetles. Check the undersides of leaves for eggs. Keep a cup of soapy water near your plant to dispose of pests easily.

Diseases that may affect your tomatillo plants:

• Early blight: This fungal disease causes dark spots on leaves, which can eventually lead to yellowing and dropping off. It can also cause lesions on stems and fruits.
• Late blight: Another fungal disease that causes irregular-shaped brown or black spots on leaves, stems, and fruits. Late blight can spread quickly and is often more severe in cool, wet conditions.
• Verticillium wilt: A soil-borne fungal disease that causes yellowing and wilting of leaves, usually starting from the lower part of the plant and moving upward.
• Fusarium wilt: Similar to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt is also a soil-borne fungal disease that causes wilting and yellowing of leaves.

Prevention of common tomatillo diseases:

• Crop rotation: Rotate your crops every 2-3 years to minimize the buildup of soil-borne pathogens.
• Plant resistant varieties: Choose tomatillo varieties resistant to common diseases when possible.
• Healthy soil: Maintain healthy soil with good drainage and proper nutrient balance. Use compost and organic matter to improve soil structure.
• Watering: Water your plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can promote fungal growth. Water early in the day to allow leaves to dry before nightfall.
• Pruning: Remove any diseased or damaged plant parts and maintain good air circulation by pruning excess foliage.
• Sanitation: Clean up plant debris and fallen leaves to reduce the chance of disease spreading.

Organic Treatment for tomatillo diseases:

• Baking soda spray: Mix one tablespoon of baking soda with 2.5 tablespoons of vegetable oil and a gallon of water. Spray on affected plants every 7-10 days to help control fungal diseases.
• Copper fungicides: Use copper-based fungicides as a preventative measure or to treat early signs of fungal diseases. Always follow the label instructions for proper application.
• Biological control: Use beneficial microorganisms like Trichoderma or Bacillus subtilis to suppress soil-borne pathogens.

When to Harvest Tomatillos

Fruit typically begins to ripen 60 – 80 days after transplant and continues to produce through frost. Picking tomatillos as they ripen encourages the plant to keep producing.

Favorite Ways to Use Tomatillos

Once you know how to grow tomatillos, you’ll have plenty to share with family and friends.

• Storing: Keep your tomatillos fresh by storing them in the refrigerator with their husks still on. This helps maintain their freshness and flavor for an extended period.
• Preparation: When you’re ready to use your tomatillos, remove the husks and rinse off any sticky residue under running water.
• Fresh uses: Chop up fresh tomatillos and add them to guacamole or salsa for a tangy twist. Their unique flavor complements many dishes, especially those from Mexican cuisine.
• Cooking methods: Roasting or sautéing tomatillos brings out their natural sweetness and deepens their flavor. For a deliciously complex taste, use roasted or sautéed tomatillos in sauces, salsas, or stews.

If this post about how to grow tomatillos was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Tomatillos from Seed to Harvest appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What We’ll Cover:

• What Armenian cucumbers are (and why they are not actually cucumbers)
• When and how to plant Armenian cucumber seeds
• Best location and trellis tips for growing Armenian cucumbers
• Watering, pollination, and pruning advice
• How and when to harvest Armenian cucumbers
• How to enjoy the harvest

Are Armenian Cucumbers Really Cucumbers?

Armenian cucumbers, also called yard-long cucumbers or snake melons, are not true cucumbers. They are a variety of musk melon (Cucumis melo var. flexuosus) that looks and tastes like a cucumber but is more tolerant of heat and less prone to bitterness.

They were first cultivated in Armenia in the 15th century and are a great choice if you have struggled with bitter or heat-sensitive cucumber varieties in the past. Learn more about why some cucumbers turn bitter here.

When to Plant Armenian Cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers are ideal for hot climates and are one of the few crops you can plant well into the summer.

For the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b and similar):

• Start seeds indoors from February through June
• Plant seeds or transplants in the garden from March through July

In general (for other climates):

• Wait to plant until after the last frost, when soil temperatures are consistently above 65°F (18°C)
• For best germination and growth, soil temperatures between 80 to 90°F (26 to 32°C) are ideal
• In cooler climates, Armenian cucumbers can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last expected frost and transplanted after danger of frost has passed

Direct sowing works best for these vigorous growers. Before planting, amend the soil with compost and make sure it drains well.

Planting tips:

• Plant 2 to 3 seeds ½ to 1 inch (1 to 2 cm) deep, spaced 1 foot (30 cm) apart
• Once seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin to 1 plant per foot
• Try different varieties. Painted Serpent is my personal favorite

If your garden is thriving with heat-tolerant Armenian cucumbers, explore how to grow peanuts for another rewarding crop that loves the heat.

Where to Grow Armenian Cucumbers

Choose a sunny location with at least 6 to 8 hours of sun. Afternoon shade can be helpful in very hot climates but is not essential.

These vines love to climb and benefit from vertical growing. A trellis helps keep fruit straighter and makes harvesting easier.

• Use a sturdy trellis or fence
• Leave at least 1 foot (30 cm) between trellised plants or 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) if allowing them to sprawl
• Rotate planting locations. Avoid areas where melons, squash, or cucumbers grew the previous year

Corn makes a good companion plant and can even serve as a living trellis.

Looking for vertical gardening ideas? Read this post.

Caring for Armenian Cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers need consistent moisture but are more drought-tolerant than common cucumbers.

• Mulch around the base to help retain moisture and keep roots cool
• Water deeply and regularly once vines begin growing

Not sure if you’re watering deeply enough? This article can help.

Pollination

These plants produce both male and female flowers. Male flowers appear first and fall off after blooming. Female flowers appear later and, if pollinated, develop into fruit.

Hand-pollination is rarely necessary. Attract pollinators by planting nearby flowers like basil, oregano, and zinnias.

Pruning Armenian Cucumbers

You do not need to prune, but removing a few side shoots can help improve airflow and manage the size of the plant.

• Cut off any yellowing or diseased leaves
• Remove some side shoots if vines are getting too large, but avoid pruning the main vine

To prune a side shoot:

• Identify the main vine, which grows from the base of the plant
• Find a side shoot growing from the base of a leaf stem
• Cut the side shoot about a quarter inch above its connection to the main vine

Leave some side shoots in place to maintain structure and ensure plenty of male blossoms. Pruning is not exact, so do not worry if you aren’t sure what to prune. The plant will keep growing.

When and How to Harvest Armenian Cucumbers

Frequent harvesting helps keep the plant producing through the season.

• Harvest when fruit is 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) long and about 2½ inches wide
• Larger fruit has tougher skin and bigger seeds and tastes more like watermelon rind
• Pick early in the day and soak in ice water to improve storage time
• Use scissors or pruners to cut the fruit instead of pulling it

Leaving fruit on the vine too long signals the plant to slow or stop production.

How to Use Armenian Cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers are mild, sweet, and never bitter. Generally, the thin skin is tender and does not need peeling.

My favorite ways to use them:

• Raw in salads, sandwiches, or with dip
• Pickled for a crisp and refreshing snack
• Sliced and grilled or added to stir-fries
• Blended into smoothies

They pair well with pork, fish, dill, mint, oregano, feta, and yogurt.

Looking for more tips? Here’s how to grow cucumbers in Arizona.

Final Thoughts

If you have struggled to grow cucumbers in the heat, Armenian cucumbers are worth a try. They handle high temperatures, rarely turn bitter, and produce abundantly through the hottest part of the year.

Learn how to garden through the summer heat with this post.

If you found this guide helpful, please share it with a fellow gardener.

The post How to Grow Armenian Cucumbers appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Gardening in Arizona’s low desert comes with unique challenges, and timing is everything. I created this Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide based on what actually works in my own garden in Mesa, with updated planting dates that reflect our warming climate.

If you’re gardening in areas below 3500 feet (like Phoenix or Tucson), this guide has pictures, timing tips, and planting windows for nearly 75 vegetables. You’ll know what to plant, when to plant it, and whether to use seeds or transplants, so your garden has the best chance to thrive.

Want the information from te Arizona vegetable planting guide in a format you can hold in your hands? This same month-by-month planting information is available in my printed planting guides and garden journals, which are designed specifically for Arizona gardeners. Keep it by your garden bench, in your kitchen, or wherever you plan your next season.

Shop Guides and Calendars Here

Be sure to scroll to the end of this Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide for links to helpful articles that answer common questions about growing a vegetable garden in Arizona.

Monthly Planting Resources

Need help knowing what to plant each month? I’ve got you covered.

• January, February, and March offer cool-season and spring planting opportunities.
• April and May are all about adjusting to the heat.
• June and July are tricky, but you can still plant with care.
• August marks the start of fall planting and the continued planting of warm-season crops.
• September and October are the busiest months for planting.
• November is still a great time to grow.
• December brings mild winter conditions that allow for another round of cool-season crops.

Click any month to see what to plant and how to keep your garden growing.

Use this Arizona Vegetable Planting Calendar for a compiled month-by-month guide to planting in the low desert.

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on vegetables, herbs, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

Click on a vegetable to go directly to that crop in the Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide:

Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Vegetables

Amaranth

When to plant Amaranth in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March – April and July – August

How to grow Amaranth in Arizona:

• Grows best from seed
• Harvest leaves as needed and cut the seed heads with stems for drying to collect seeds. 
• Leaves are high in protein. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow amaranth.

Armenian Cucumber

When to plant Armenian Cucumbers in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: February – June
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – July

How to grow Armenian Cucumbers:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Don’t rush to plant in the spring; Armenian cucumbers prefer warm temperatures. Heat tolerance is their number one attribute; high temperatures do not stress these plants.

Read this article for more information about how to grow Armenian cucumbers. 

Artichoke (Globe)

When to plant Globe Artichokes in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds outside: October – December
Plant transplants outside: October – February

How to grow Globe Artichokes:

• Grows best from transplant
• Time to harvest: 4 – 6 months
• Buds are edible when harvested young (before opening and developing into flowers). 
• At the end of flowering, plants should be cut down to ground and mulched heavily. Plants normally come back each year.

Read this article for more information about how to grow artichokes. 

Artichoke (Jerusalem)

When to plant Jerusalem Artichokes in Arizona:

Plant seeds or transplants outside: February – May

How to grow Jerusalem Artichokes:

• Grows best from tubers planted in late winter to early spring
• Tubers are edible and harvested after the plant dies back in late fall
• At the end of the season, cut stalks to the ground; plants regrow each year from remaining tubers. Can spread aggressively if not contained.

Arugula

When to plant Arugula in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Arugula:

• Grows best from seed
• Prolonged warm temperatures cause arugula to bolt and become bitter.
• Harvest outer leaves using cut-and-come-again method to allow additional harvests.
• Arugula tolerates a little frost.

Read this article for more information about how to grow arugula.

Asparagus

When to plant Asparagus in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – November
Plant seeds outside: November – January

How to grow Asparagus:

• Asparagus grows quickest from 2 year old roots; can also start from seeds or transplants
• Time to harvest: 1 – 2 years

Read this article for more information about how to grow asparagus. 

Beans (Black-eyed-peas)

When to plant Beans (Black-eyed-peas):

Plant seeds outside: April – August

How to grow Beans (Black-eyed-peas):

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden.
• Also called cowpeas.

Read this article for more information about how to grow black-eyed-peas.

Beans (Bush & Pole)

When to plant Bush and Pole Beans in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March 15 – April and August – September

How to grow Bush and Pole Beans:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden.
• Time to harvest: 60 – 90 days
• Harvest beans when they are small and tender. Picking beans often encourages more bean production.

Read this article for more information about how to grow bush and pole beans.

Beans (Fava)

When to plant Fava Beans in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – January

How to grow Fava Beans:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden.
• Pods are edible when young; mature beans can be shelled and eaten fresh or dried
• At the end of the season, pull plants and compost or chop and drop as green manure—adds nitrogen to the soil. Cold-hardy and ideal for winter gardens.

Read this article for more information about how to grow fava beans.

Beans (Garbanzo, Lentil)

When to plant Garbanzo and Lentil Beans in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – January

How to grow Garbanzo and Lentil Beans:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden.
• Pods are edible once dry; harvest when plants begin to yellow and dry out
• At the end of the season, pull plants and compost or use as green manure. Both are cool-season crops and fix nitrogen in the soil. Drought-tolerant and low maintenance.

Beans (Lima)

When to plant Lima Beans in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March 15 – April and July – August

How to grow Lima Beans:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden.
• Time to harvest: 60 – 100 days
• Lima beans prefer warm but not hot temperatures and may begin producing once temperatures drop in the fall.

Read this article for more information about how to grow lima beans.

Beans (Tepary)

When to plant Tepary Beans in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March and July – August (monsoon season)

How to grow Tepary Beans:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden.
• Time to harvest: around 100 days
• Tepary beans have been grown in the Sonoran Desert for hundreds of years.
• Do not overwater. 
• Harvest when pods are dry.

Read this article for more information about how to grow tepary beans.

Beans (Yardlong)

How to grow yardlong beans in the low desert of Arizona:

When to plant Yardlong Beans in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March 15 – July

How to grow Yardlong Beans:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden.
• Time to harvest: 60 – 90 days
• Yardlong beans tolerate heat and humidity better than snap bean varieties.
• Also called asparagus beans or Chinese-longbeans.

Read this article for more information about how to grow yardlong beans. 

Beets

When to plant Beets in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – February

How to grow Beets:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden. But can be carefully transplanted when young.
• Time to harvest: 60 – 80 days
• Beets tolerate a little frost.
• Beet thinnings can be carefully transplanted.
•  Plant beet seeds every few weeks for a continual harvest. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow beets. 

Bok Choy

When to plant Bok Choy in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – February

How to grow Bok Choy:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 45 days
• Bok Choy likes cool temperatures.
• A light frost improves the flavor of Bok Choy. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow bok choy. 

Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Vegetables (continued)

Broccoli

When to plant Broccoli in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – November
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Broccoli:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 
  • Seed: 120 – 130 days
  • Transplants: 80 – 90 days
• In many varieties, smaller side shoots will form after the main head is harvested.

Read this article for more information about how to grow broccoli. 

Brussels Sprouts

When to plant Brussels Sprouts in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – September
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Brussels Sprouts:

• Grows best from transplant in the low desert of Arizona.
• Time to harvest: 100 – 120 days
• Once buds form, if temperatures are beginning to climb or if you want to harvest all the Brussels sprouts at one time, pinch off the rosette (growing tip at the top of plant) about a month before the desired harvest. This directs the plant’s energy to increasing the size of the buds and they will develop all at once.

Read this article for more information about how to grow Brussels sprouts. 

Buckwheat

When to plant Buckwheat in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March – April and September – October

How to grow Buckwheat:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden
• Seeds are edible and ready to harvest about 10–12 weeks after planting
• At the end of the season, cut plants before seeds fully drop. Great as a quick cover crop—improves soil and attracts pollinators. Heat-sensitive; avoid midsummer planting.

Cabbage

When to plant Cabbage in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – November
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Cabbage:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 
  • Seed: 120 – 130 days
  • Transplants: 80 – 90 days
• Cabbage will not form a head but split or bolt if exposed to too much heat or severe frost.

Read this article for more information about how to grow cabbage. 

Cantaloupe

When to plant Cantaloupe in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – June 
Plant seeds or transplants outside: February 15 – July

How to grow Cantaloupe:

• Grows best from seed if soil is warm enough.
• Time to harvest: 80 – 120 days
• Can be started indoors, but do not let seedlings become pot bound.
• Try growing native-adapted varieties from Native Seeds Search.

Read this article for more information about how to grow cantaloupe.

Carrots

How to grow carrots in the low desert of Arizona:

When to plant Carrots in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – March

How to grow Carrots:

• Grows best from seed. DO NOT USE TRANSPLANTS.
• Time to harvest: 60 – 100 days
• Thin carrot seedlings for good-sized carrots.
• Harvest carrots before the heat of the summer; the heat turns them bitter. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow carrots.

Cauliflower

When to plant Cauliflower in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – November
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Cauliflower:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest:
  • Seed: 120 – 130 days
  • Transplants: 90 – 100 days
• To grow cauliflower successfully, it needs at least 2 months of cool weather (60 degrees is ideal) to mature. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow cauliflower. 

Celery

When to plant Celery in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – September
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Celery:

• Grows best from transplant
• Time to harvest: 120 – 150 days
• Harvest individual stalks of celery as needed rather than cutting off the entire base. 
• Celery can also be grown with the cut-off base of grocery store celery.

Read this article for more information about how to grow celery. 

Chichiquelite

When to plant Chichiquelites in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – February
Plant transplants outside: March – April

How to grow Chichiquelites:

• Grows best from transplant
• Berries are edible when fully ripe. They are slightly sweet, with a mild flavor, great for jams or fresh eating
• Annual in hot climates. Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Related to nightshades, only eat ripe berries; unripe fruit and foliage may be mildly toxic.

Chiltepin

When to plant Chiltepin in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – January
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and July 15 – September

How to grow Chiltepin:

• Grows best from transplant
• Berries are edible when fully ripe. Small, fiery fruits with a bold, smoky heat, perfect for salsas and traditional dishes.
• Perennial in mild climates, often grown as an annual in hot regions. Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Related to nightshades; only eat ripe berries, as unripe fruit and foliage can be mildly toxic.

Read this article for more information about how to grow chiltepin.

Collard Greens

When to plant Collard Greens in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – February

How to grow Collard Greens:

• Grows best from transplants or direct seed in fall
• Leaves are edible and harvested young for tenderness or mature for cooking
• Cold-hardy and frost-tolerant. It can be grown as a short-lived perennial in mild winters. Thrives in full sun with consistent moisture.

Comfrey

When to plant Comfrey in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – February
Plant transplants outside: March – April

How to grow Comfrey:

• Grows best from root cuttings or transplants
• Leaves are useful for compost, mulch, or external herbal remedies, not for internal use
• Tolerates heat and drought once established. Deep roots improve soil. Great for pollinators and permaculture gardens.

Corn

When to plant Corn in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: February 15 – March and July – August

How to grow Corn:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 70 – 90 days
• Plant corn in blocks rather than rows to encourage pollination. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow corn.

Cucamelon

When to plant Cucamelons in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – March and June – August
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

How to grow Cucamelons:

• Grows best from transplant in the low desert of Arizona
• Time to harvest: 65 – 75 days
• Growing in Arizona can be challenging. If you have trouble getting plants to grow, try starting seeds indoors.
• Also called Mexican sour gherkin and Mouse Melon.

Read this article for more information about how to grow cucamelons. 

Cucumber

When to plant Cucumbers in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – March and July – August
Plant seeds or transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

How to grow Cucumbers:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 60 – 90 days
• For spring planting, choose short-season varieties that will ripen before the hottest days of summer. Arizona summer heat makes cucumbers bitter. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow cucumbers. 

Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Vegetables (continued)

Edamame

When to plant Edamame in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March 15 – April and August – September

How to grow Edamame:

• Grows best from seed
• Days to harvest: 75 – 110 days
• Harvest pods as soon as they are plump and still bright green. Once pods turn yellow, the consistency and flavor deteriorates rapidly.

Read this article for more information about how to grow edamame. 

Eggplant

When to plant Eggplants in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – February and May – July
Plant transplants outside: March – April and July 15 – September

How to grow Eggplants:

• Grows best from transplant
• Time to harvest: 70 – 120 days 

Read this article for more information about how to grow eggplant. 

Garlic

When to plant Garlic in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – November

How to grow Garlic:

• Planted from cloves
• Soft-neck varieties grow best in the low desert of Arizona
• Time to harvest: 5 – 7 months
• Place whole cloves in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator 6 weeks before planting. Vernalization helps ensure correct bulb formation.

Read this article for more information about how to grow garlic. 

Ground Cherries

When to plant Ground Cherries:

Start seeds indoors: December – January and May – June 
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – March  and July 15 – September

How to grow Ground Cherries:

• Grows best from transplant
• Ground cherry plants are sprawling and grow wide. Allow 2 – 3 feet between each plant. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow ground cherries.

Jicama

When to plant Jicama in Arizona:

Plant seeds indoors: January – February
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – April

How to grow Jicama:

• Grows best from seed
• Roots are edible, crisp, and sweet—harvest when vines begin to yellow in fall
• Requires a long growing season (at least 5–9 months). Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Vines can be trellised. Only the root is edible—leaves and seeds are toxic.

Kale

When to plant Kale in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – December
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Kale:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 60 – 90 days
• For a continual harvest, harvest only the outer leaves of kale (known as the cut-and-come-again method). 

Read this article for more information about how to grow kale. 

Kohlrabi

When to plant Kohlrabi in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – December
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Kohlrabi:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 45 – 60 days
• Kohlrabi tastes best when harvested small and before the weather gets hot. Begin harvesting when bulbs are about 2 inches wide. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow kohlrabi.

Leek

When to plant Leeks in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – November
Plant seeds outside: October – November
Plant transplants outside November – January

How to grow Leeks:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 120 -150 days
• Densely plant seeds and then thin and replant seedlings 6 – 8 inches deep and 4 – 6 inches apart; or plant from transplant. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow leeks. 

Lettuce / Endive

When to plant Lettuce in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Lettuce:

• Grows best from seed or transplant 
• Time to harvest: 50 – 100 days, depending on the variety
• For a continual harvest, harvest only the outer leaves of lettuce (known as the cut-and-come-again method). 
• Warm temperatures cause lettuce to bolt.

Read this article for more information about how to grow lettuce.

Luffa

When to plant Luffa in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – March
Plant seeds or transplants outside: February 15 – April

How to grow Luffa:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: At least 120 days when harvested as a sponge, usually much longer.
• Once gourd is longer than 6 inches, the insides become fibrous and it is too tough to eat. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow luffa. 

Malabar Spinach

When to plant Malabar Spinach in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – March
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – May

How to grow Malabar Spinach:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Although Malabar spinach tolerates hot Arizona summers, it is a tropical plant and needs consistent moisture throughout the growing season. For best flavor, keep soil evenly moist. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow Malabar spinach.

Mustard

When to plant Mustard in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – February

How to grow Mustard:

• Grows best in moist, fertile soil
• Leaves are edible raw or cooked—young leaves are tender, older ones have a spicy kick
• Fast-growing and frost-tolerant. Prefers full sun and regular watering. May bolt early in heat; harvest frequently to extend season. Also great as a cover crop.

Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Vegetables (continued)

Okra

When to plant Okra in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: February – May
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March 15 – June

How to grow Okra:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 70 – 100 days
• Good to know: Make it a point to harvest okra daily while it is producing; leaving pods on the plant slows or stops production.

Read this article for more information about how to grow okra. 

Onions (Bulb)

When to plant Onions in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – November
Plant seeds outside: October – November
Plant transplants outside:  November – January

How to grow Onions:

• Grows best from seed or onion transplants (not sets)
• Time to harvest: 7 – 8 months
• Densely plant seeds and then thin and replant seedlings.
• Onion sets commonly sold in stores have often dried out and will bolt (flower). 

Read this article for more information about how to grow onions. 

Onions (Green)

When to plant Green Onions in Arizona:

Plant from seeds outside: September 15 – April

How to grow Green Onions:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 90 – 100 days
• Good to know:  Harvest individual onions as needed. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow green onions. 

Onions (I’itoi)

When to plant I’itoi Onions in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: August – November

How to grow I’itoi Onions:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Harvest greens as needed and bulbs when they reach the desired size. 
• I’itoi onions thrive in the harsh growing conditions of the Sonoran Desert. One bulb becomes 8 or 10 bulbs, which in turn become more bulbs. You will be amazed at how quickly these bulbs multiply.

Read this article for more information about how to grow I’itoi onions.

Onions (Shallot)

When to plant Shallot Onions in Arizona:

Plant sets outside: August – November

How to grow Shallot Onions:

• Grows best from sets planted in the fall
• Bulbs are edible, mild, and sweet—used in cooking like garlic and onions
• Prefers cool-season growing with harvest in late spring. Needs full sun and loose, well-drained soil. Cure bulbs after harvest for storage. Divide and replant for continuous crops.

Parsnips

When to plant Parsnips in Arizona:

Plant outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Parsnips:

• Grows best from seed. DO NOT USE TRANSPLANTS
• Use fresh seeds each year.
• Time to harvest: 100 – 120 days

Read this article for more information about how to grow parsnips.

Peanuts

When to plant Peanuts in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March 15 – April

How to grow Peanuts:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 5 months
• The flowers of peanut plants are above ground, but the pods (shells) containing the seeds develop underground. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow peanuts. 

Peas

When to plant Peas in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Peas:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 60 – 150 days, depending on when planted and variety
• Peas are sweetest when eaten fresh; the sugar in the peas turns to starch within hours of harvesting.

Read this article for more information about how to grow peas.

Peppers

When to plant Peppers in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – February and May – July
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and July 15 – September

How to grow Peppers:

• Grows best from transplant
• Time to harvest: 90 – 120 days
• Start seeds indoors in late December or January for spring transplants.

Read this article for more information about how to grow peppers. 

Potatoes

When to plant Potatoes in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds outside: September – January

How to grow Potatoes:

• Grows best from seed potatoes
• Time to harvest: 90 – 120 days
• Potatoes grow well in grow bags or containers.
• If plants are killed by frost, harvest potatoes (regardless of size) within a week or two to prevent them from rotting.

Read this article for more information about how to grow potatoes. 

Pumpkins

When to plant Pumpkins in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: February and June – July
Plant seeds and transplants outside: March and July – August

How to grow Pumpkins:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 90 – 120 days
• Growing pumpkins requires a lot of room and water. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow pumpkins.

Radishes

When to plant Radishes in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – March

How to grow Radishes:

• Grows best from seed. DO NOT PLANT TRANSPLANTS
• Time to harvest: 40 – 60 days
• Radishes sprout easily, grow quickly, and are a perfect first seed to grow for new or young gardeners.

Read this article for more information about how to grow radishes.

Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Vegetables (continued)

Roselle Hibiscus

When to plant Roselle Hibiscus in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: February – April
Plant seeds and transplants outside: March 15 – May

How to grow Roselle Hibiscus:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 120 – 180 days
• Although the plants don’t bloom until fall, planting roselle earlier in the season ensures a large plant with plenty of blooms and calyces to harvest. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow roselle hibiscus. 

Rutabaga

When to plant Rutabaga in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Rutabaga:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden
• Roots are edible—mild, sweet, and excellent roasted, mashed, or in stews
• Prefers cool weather and takes about 90 days to mature. Harvest before spring heat sets in. Needs full sun and consistent moisture. Leaves are edible when young. Cold-hardy and great for winter gardens. 

Sorghum

When to plant Sorghum in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March – April and July – August

How to grow Sorghum:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in the garden
• Grain heads are edible, used for flour, syrup, or popped like popcorn
• Drought-tolerant and heat-loving, it thrives in full sun with minimal water. Can be used as a cover crop or forage. Harvest grain when seed heads dry and turn brown. Tall, striking plants—also great for ornamental use.

Spinach

When to plant Spinach in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December  
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Spinach:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 40 – 90 days
• Larger leaves can become bitter; don’t wait too long to harvest.
• Harvest outer leaves (leaving inner leaves for continual harvest) or harvest the entire plant at once by cutting it off at the base.

Read this article for more information about how to grow spinach. 

Squash (Summer)

When to plant Summer Squash in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – February and July – August
Plant seeds or transplants outside: February 15 – March and August 15 – September

How to grow Summer Squash:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 60 – 90 days
• If you are finding that female fruits are withering, hand-pollinate by transferring pollen from the male stamen to the female pistil.

Read this article for more information about how to grow summer squash. 

Squash (Winter)

When to plant Winter Squash:

Start seeds indoors: February and June – July
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March and July – August

How to grow Winter Squash:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 90 – 120 days
• Winter squash mature on the vine and can be stored indoors for several months. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow winter squash. 

Sweet Potatoes

When to plant Sweet Potatoes:

Start sweet potato slips indoors: January – April
Plant slips outside: March – June

How to grow Sweet Potatoes:

• Grows best from slips – small pieces of rooted sweet potato vines grown from a sweet potato.
• Time to harvest: 120 – 160 days
• Sweet potatoes need a long warm growing season, are heat tolerant and drought resistant, and have few pests or diseases.

Read this article for more information about how to grow sweet potatoes. 

Swiss Chard

When to plant Swiss Chard in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – February

How to grow Swiss Chard:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Time to harvest: 60 – 90 days
• To harvest Swiss chard, cut off the outer leaves with a sharp pair of garden scissors 1½ to 2 inches above the ground while they are young and tender (about 8 to 12 inches long).

Read this article for more information about how to grow Swiss chard. 

Tomatillos

How to grow tomatillos in the low desert of Arizona:

When to plant Tomatillos in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – January and May – July
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – March  and July 15 – September

How to grow Tomatillos:

• Grows best from transplant
• Time to harvest: 80 – 100 days
• Plants grow large and will need trellising.
• Plant 2 to ensure pollination

Read this article for more information about how to grow tomatillos. 

Tomatoes

When to plant Tomatoes in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – January and May – July
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – March  and July 15 – September

How to grow Tomatoes:

• Grows best from transplant
• Time to harvest: 50-120 days
• Look for plants with a short (60-90) days to maturity.

Read this article for more information about how to grow tomatoes. 

Turnips

When to plant Turnips in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Turnips:

• Grows best from seed. DO NOT USE TRANSPLANTS.
• Time to harvest: 90 – 120 days
• Thin when plants are 4 inches tall. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow turnips. 

Watermelon

When to plant Watermelon in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: February 15 – June

How to grow Watermelon:

• Grows best from seed
• Time to harvest: 90 – 120 days
• Watermelon leaves produce the sugars that sweeten the watermelon. Allow leaves to sprawl and grow; do not pinch off vines or leaves. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow watermelon.

Wheat

When to plant Wheat in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: November – January

How to grow Wheat:

• Grows best from seed
• Grain can be milled into flour, sprouted, or used whole in cooking
• Grows through the cool season and finishes before summer heat. Prefers a sunny location and well drained soil. Harvest when stalks turn golden and heads are dry to the touch. Easy to grow on a small scale and great for building soil health.

Looking for more help planning your Arizona garden? These visual guides are designed specifically for low desert gardeners:

• Arizona Bulb Planting Guide – Add colorful bulbs to your garden and landscape.
• Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide – Learn when and how to plant colorful blooms that thrive in our unique climate.
• Arizona Fruit Planting Guide – A visual guide to help you grow everything from citrus to berries.
• Arizona Herb Planting Guide – Discover how to grow flavor-packed herbs year-round.
• Arizona Vine Planting Guide – Add vertical interest and shade with flowering and edible vines.

Just like this Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide, each of these guide include detailed planting tips and seasonal advice tailored for growing in Arizona’s low desert.

If you are ready to dive deeper into gardening, explore my gardening classes. I offer both online and in-person classes that cover topics like seasonal planting, raised beds, soil health, and gardening in the low desert.

Want to learn more about vegetable gardening in Arizona?

Click on a question below to be taken to a blog post about the topic. 

• What do you need to know about growing a vegetable garden in Arizona?
• Is it too hot to garden in the summer in Arizona?
• Which type of soil is best for gardening in Arizona?
• What is the best way to water vegetable gardens in Arizona?
• What is the best way to prevent pests when gardening in Arizona?
• Wondering how to get started with Square Foot Gardening?
• What about plant spacing in Square Foot Gardening?
• How do you get your soil ready for planting in Arizona?
• What should you do before starting a fall garden in Arizona?
• Wondering how to prepare for a spring garden in Arizona?

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Planting Calendar was a valuable resource as I learned to grow a vegetable garden in Arizona. I also used it as a reference in this Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide. 

If this Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide was helpful, please share it.

The post Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Vegetables appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

I planted two chiltepin plants during the 2022 monsoon season, and they’re still alive and happily producing in my garden. Here’s what I’ve learned about growing chiltepin, along with tips for harvesting and enjoying this legendary little pepper.

What this article covers:

• What is Chiltepin?
• Starting Chiltepin from Seed
• When and Where to Plant
• Soil and Spacing
• Watering and Care
• Companion Planting
• Harvesting Chiltepin
• Preserving and Using Chiltepin
• What I’ve Learned Growing Chiltepin
• Sources

What is Chiltepin?

Chiltepin (Capsicum annuum var. glabriusculum) is a tiny, round wild pepper that grows naturally in the Sonoran Desert. It is a wild relative and likely ancestor of modern domesticated peppers.

In the wild, chiltepin grows under the shade of “nurse plants” such as mesquite, ironwood, and desert hackberry. These taller plants offer filtered shade, mulch, and protection from extreme temperatures. Birds eat the ripe red berries and disperse the seeds, helping to plant the next round of plants.

Chiltepin is a perennial shrub that can live for many years in frost-free conditions, growing 3 to 4 feet tall and wide. In low desert climates (Zones 9b to 10a), it can live year-round. Even if frost damages the plant, the roots will regrow in the spring. Learn about more perennial crops for hot climates in this guide. 

Wild-harvested chiltepin is a significant seasonal crop in Sonora and remains a popular ingredient in traditional cuisines across northern Mexico and the southwestern United States.

Although small, it’s hot! Chiltepin ranges from 50,000 to 100,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU), making it several times hotter than a jalapeño. The heat hits quickly but fades fast. Once dried, the flavor becomes smoky and earthy.

If you love mild peppers too, you might enjoy learning how to grow poblano peppers.

Starting Chiltepin from Seed

Start seeds indoors about 8 weeks before planting outside. Seeds are available from sources like Native Seeds/SEARCH. Chiltepin seeds germinate more slowly than other peppers, but using a heat mat helped speed up the process for me. Once sprouted, the seedlings grew quickly.

If you’re new to seed starting, these seed-starting tips may be helpful.

When and Where to Plant

Transplant outside in spring (mid-February to April) after frost, or during monsoon season (late July to September) when humidity helps plants get established. I planted mine in a raised bed in late July, with afternoon shade provided by nearby plants.

The plants quickly overtook the bed. I didn’t expect them to grow so large. After a year, I moved them to in-ground spots on the west-facing side of my yard. One now grows beside a fig tree. Both receive dappled shade and have room to spread. In the wild, filtered light under trees is ideal, and that’s what I tried to recreate.

For more help choosing planting times, check out my Arizona vegetable planting guide.

Soil and Spacing

Chiltepin prefers well-drained, compost-rich soil. Amend the native soil with compost or aged manure to mimic the natural leaf litter in which it grows. Sandy or loamy soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH (7 to 7.5) works well. In containers, drainage is essential.

If you’re preparing a new garden bed, this post on the best soil for raised bed gardening may be helpful.

• In-ground spacing: 3 to 5 feet apart.
  
• Raised beds: One chiltepin can fill a 3×3 space. (Two plants took over a 4×8 bed in my garden.)

For general pepper growing tips, see How to Grow Peppers: 10 Tips for Growing Peppers.

Watering and Care

Once established, chiltepin is drought-tolerant. In the ground, I water mine once or twice a week in summer and much less in cooler months. In raised beds or containers, water when the top inch of soil is dry.

Avoid overwatering. Deep, infrequent watering is best. Adding a thick layer of mulch helps retain moisture.

These plants grow large and sprawling. I prune mine in spring and fall to control their size. If your peppers overwinter outdoors, learn how and when to prune peppers in mild-winter climates, or read how to prune tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants after winter.

Companion Planting

In Arizona, the best companion for chiltepin is shade. Nurse plants, such as mesquite, ironwood, or even a fig tree, can create a suitable environment. Tuck chiltepin under taller plants to mimic its wild growing conditions and improve success.

Learn more about companion planting and how it helps your garden thrive.

Harvesting Chiltepin

The plants take around 120 days to fruit. Chiltepins ripen from green to bright red, typically during the summer through fall. I harvest them when they turn fully red and snap off easily. If left on the plant, they often dry in place and can still be picked later.

The plants are prolific. I use this berry picker to speed up the harvesting process. Birds love them too, and I don’t mind sharing.

If you’re interested in growing other types of chiles, check out 16 Types of Peppers: Pepper Varieties to Grow.

Preserving and Using Chiltepin

Here are a few simple ways to enjoy and store your chiltepin harvest:

• Drying: Lay ripe chiltepins in a single layer in a warm, shaded spot. Once dry, store whole or crushed in airtight containers.
  
• Pickling: Pack chiltepins into a jar with garlic, herbs, and vinegar for a spicy, tangy condiment.
  
• Culinary uses: I like to crush dried chiltepins into salsas, beans, and meat dishes. A little goes a long way. Always wear gloves when handling and use sparingly if you’re not used to the heat.

Looking for more ideas on preserving? Browse preserving your harvest posts for recipes and inspiration.

What I’ve Learned Growing Chiltepin

Growing chiltepin has become one of my favorite gardening experiments. It’s beautiful, productive, and deeply connected to the history and ecology of the desert Southwest. With some shade and care, chiltepin thrives in Arizona gardens, rewarding you with fiery flavor throughout the year.

If you’re looking to add chiltepin to your garden, be patient with the seeds, give them space to grow, and enjoy harvesting one of the most legendary peppers in the Southwest.

Sources

• University of Arizona Cooperative Extension: Chiltepin PDF
  
• Native Seeds/SEARCH: Sonoran Chiltepin
  

The post How to Grow Chiltepin: Arizona’s Native Wild Pepper appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Gardening through an Arizona summer isn’t easy, but it is possible. You just have to grow the right things. Over the years, I’ve learned which vegetables can take the heat (and which ones can’t), and these are the ones I come back to year after year.

In this post, I’m sharing 10 hot summer vegetables and herbs that not only survive in high temperatures, but may also thrive. If you live in the low desert of Arizona or another hot climate, these are some of the best vegetables to plant in hot climates to keep your garden growing through the heat. I’ll also share my favorite varieties and tips to help each one succeed. Click on the seed links to be taken to trusted sources for seeds. 

Not sure when and what to plant? My Vegetable & Herb Planting Guide includes planting dates for nearly 100 crops, and it’s the same one I use in my garden. You can also explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

Let’s get planting.

Vegetables that love hot summers: Armenian Cucumber

How to plant Armenian cucumbers:

• Armenian cucumber grows well from seed or transplant. Seeds are available from Seeds Now. 

When to plant Armenian cucumbers: 

• Plant seeds indoors: February – June
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – July
• Other areas plant when temperatures are consistently above 65°F, and 80°F is even better.

Tips for growing Armenian cucumbers during hot weather.

•  Although heat tolerant, they require even and consistent watering to prevent them from becoming bitter.
• Do not overcrowd plants – crowded plants are more susceptible to pests and diseases such as powdery mildew and squash bugs.
• Pick fruit early in the day and immerse it in cold water to lengthen storage time.

Read this article for more information about how to grow Armenian cucumbers. 

Vegetables that love hot weather: Asparagus Beans

How to plant asparagus beans:

• Asparagus beans do best when grown from seed. Seeds are available from Seeds Now. 

When to plant asparagus beans:

• Plant seeds outside: March 15 – July
• Other areas plant when the soil is at least 70℉, with daytime temperatures at or above 70℉ and nighttime temperatures above 50℉.  

Tips for growing asparagus beans during hot weather:

• Bean production may seem slow as vines grow, but it will increase with vine size. 
• Harvest beans often to encourage production.
• Harvest beans with about the width of a pencil and 12-18 inches long for the best taste. 

Other bean varieties that thrive in hot summers:

• Lima beans
• Edamame

Read this article for more information about how to grow asparagus beans.

Vegetables that love hot summers: Basil

How to plant basil:

• Basil grows best from seed or transplant. Seeds are available from Seeds Now. 

When to plant basil:

• Plant seeds indoors: January – July
• Plant seeds outside: February 15 – August
• Plant transplants: March – August
• In other areas, plant when when nighttime temperatures are above 70℉. 

Tips for growing basil during hot weather:

• Don’t rush planting; basil prefers warm air and soil.
• During hot weather and dry periods, water basil deeply and regularly. 
• Mulching plants helps to preserve moisture.
• Amend monthly with additional compost or organic fertilizer.
• To encourage new growth, cut back flowers as they appear.
• Leaves will be larger if grown in afternoon shade during the year’s hottest months. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow basil. 

Vegetables that love hot weather: Eggplant

How to plant eggplant:

• Eggplant does best when planted outside from transplants. 

• Start eggplant seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before planting or purchase transplants. Seeds are available at Seeds Now. 

When to plant eggplant:

• Plant seeds indoors: December – February and May – July
• Plant transplants: March – April and July 15 – September
• Other areas plant when the soil is at least 70℉, with daytime temperatures at or above 70℉ and nighttime temperatures above 50℉. 

Tips for growing eggplant during hot weather:

• Eggplant does best with some afternoon shade in the year’s hottest months. 
• A thick layer of mulch around plants helps retain moisture and cools the soil.
• Do not let the soil get soggy. Plant where there is good drainage. 
• Fruits may be smaller during the hottest times of the year.

Read this article for more information about how to grow eggplant. 

Vegetables that love hot summers: Luffa

How to plant luffa:

• Luffa grows best from seed or transplant. Seeds are available from Seeds Now. 

When to plant luffa:

• Plant seeds indoors: January – March
• Plant seeds and transplants outside: February 15 – April
• Other areas plant when all danger of frost has passed.

Tips for growing luffa during hot weather:

• Provide a trellis or arbor for the vigorous vines to climb.
• Be patient when waiting for female blossoms to appear. 
• Harvest young gourds to eat or leave on the vine to develop into a sponge. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow luffa.  Learn how to make scrubbers with loofah sponges in this guide.

Vegetables to plant in hot climates: Malabar Spinach

How to plant Malabar spinach:

• Plant from seeds, transplants, or cuttings. Seeds are available from Burpee Seeds.

When to plant Malabar spinach:

• Plant seeds indoors: January – March
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – May
• In other areas, plant when soil temperatures reach 65℉ – 85℉.

Tips for growing Malabar spinach during hot weather:

• Malabar spinach does best with afternoon shade. 
• Although Malabar spinach tolerates hot Arizona summers, it is a tropical plant and needs consistent moisture throughout the growing season. 
• For best flavor, keep the soil evenly moist. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow Malabar spinach. 

Vegetables that love hot weather: Okra

How to plant okra:

• Okra does best when directly sown from seed in the ground. Seeds are available from Seeds Now. 

When to plant okra:

• Plant seeds indoors: February – May
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: March 15 – June
• Other areas plant when soil temperatures are warm (80-95 ℉).

Tips for growing okra during hot weather:

• Okra thrives in hot weather and needs full sun to produce well. 
• Water okra to a depth of 8″-12″.
• Mulch okra to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.
• Harvest okra often (sometimes daily) to encourage production. 

This article shares more information about how to grow okra. 

Vegetables that love hot weather: Peppers

How to plant peppers:

• Peppers do best when planted outside from transplants. 
• Start pepper seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before planting or purchase transplants. Seeds are available from Seeds Now. 

When to plant peppers:

• Plant seeds indoors: December – February and May – July
• Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and July 15 – September
• Other areas, plant outdoors about two weeks after your last frost date. 

Tips for growing peppers during hot weather:

• During the hottest times of the summer in Arizona, you may need to provide shade for pepper plants.
• Small, thinned-walled peppers perform best during the hottest months of the year. 
• A thick layer of mulch around plants helps retain moisture and cools the soil a bit for the growing peppers.

Read this article for more information about how to grow peppers. 

Vegetables to plant in hot climates: Roselle Hibiscus

How to plant roselle hibiscus:

• Plant from seed or transplant. Seeds are available from Renee’s Garden Seeds.

When to plant roselle hibiscus:

• Plant seeds indoors: February – April
• Plant seeds and transplants outside: March 15 – May
• In other areas, plant when soil temperatures reach 75℉ – 85℉.

Tips for growing roselle hibiscus during hot weather:

• Plant roselle early in the season to ensure a large plant when the plant flowers as days get shorter in the fall. 
• In the low desert of Arizona, the roselle plant begins to thrive when the more humid monsoon weather begins. 
• Keep the soil evenly moist as roselle grows. Take care not to overwater as roselle can be affected by root rot if the soil is not well-draining.

Read this article for more information about how to grow roselle hibiscus. 

Vegetables to plant in hot climates: Sweet Potatoes

How to plant sweet potatoes:

• Sweet potatoes are grown from slips – small pieces of rooted sweet potato tubers grown from a sweet potato. Learn how to grow sweet potato slips in this article. 

When to plant sweet potatoes:

• Plant slips indoors: January – April
• Plant slips outside: March – June
• In other areas, plant 2-3 weeks after the last spring frost, when the soil temperature is at least 65℉.

Tips for growing sweet potatoes during hot weather:

• Sweet potatoes need a long warm growing season, are heat-tolerant and drought-resistant, and have few pests or diseases.
• Fertilize once during the growing season and do not prune vines. 
• Water deeply and regularly. Let the soil dry out somewhat between waterings.

Read this article for more information about how to grow sweet potatoes. 

Want more gardening tips for hot climates?

If you’re looking for more ideas for hot summer vegetables or simply want to learn how to keep your garden thriving when temperatures soar, here are a few more helpful blog posts to explore:

• 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• 10 Ways to Prepare Your Hot-Climate Garden for Summer
• 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive the Summer Heat
• Summer Gardening in Arizona: What You Need to Know
• Take the Summer Off: Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead
• Surviving a Heatwave: Gardening in High Heat

Whether you’re choosing vegetables to plant in hot climates, refreshing your beds with flowers, or giving your garden a seasonal rest, these posts are full of practical advice that works in real-life gardens.

If this post about vegetables that love hot summers was helpful, please share it.

The post Vegetables That Love Hot Summers: Top Ten Picks appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

But which vegetables grow best with a little support? Here are 10 vegetables that love to climb, plus helpful links to learn how to grow each one.

Bonus: I’ll also link to some of my favorite vertical gardening ideas and YouTube videos at the end!

1. Peas

Pea tendrils naturally seek out a trellis and climb without much help, quickly stretching as high as you’ll let them. A sturdy support system makes all the difference for a successful pea harvest.

→ Learn how to grow peas here.

2. Tomatoes

Tomatoes thrive when grown vertically. Keeping the plant upright prevents heavy branches from breaking and helps reduce disease by keeping the leaves off the ground. Plus, harvesting is much easier when tomatoes are easy to see.

My favorite way to trellis tomatoes? These tomato cages from Garden in Minutes.
→ Learn how to grow tomatoes here.

3. Loofah

Loofah gourds grow on vigorous vines that can easily stretch over 10 feet. Growing loofah vertically not only saves space but also helps the fruit stay long and straight. Give loofah plenty of room and a strong trellis for best results.

→ Learn how to grow loofah here.

→ Learn how to grow cucuzza gourd here.

4. Melons

Melons love to sprawl — but you don’t have to let them take over your garden! Growing melons vertically saves space, improves airflow, and keeps fruit off the soil, reducing the risk of rot and pests. Larger fruits like watermelons may need a little extra support with a hammock or melon sling.

→ Learn how to grow cantaloupe here.
→ Learn how to grow watermelon here.

5. Tomatillos

Tomatillo plants are sprawling and heavy — but their branches are also brittle. Growing tomatillos vertically keeps them off the ground, makes harvesting easier, and helps you spot pests earlier. Use trellis clips or gently tie branches as they grow.

→ Learn how to grow tomatillos here.

6. Yardlong Beans

Also called asparagus beans, these long, vigorous vines climb easily up tall trellises (6 feet or higher). Growing yardlong beans vertically keeps pests like potato bugs at bay and makes harvesting the dangling beans a breeze.

→ Learn how to grow beans here.

Bonus: Other climbing beans like pole beans and borlotti beans also love a vertical structure!

7. Malabar Spinach

Looking for a heat-loving, vining green? Malabar spinach is your answer. This tropical spinach alternative thrives in summer and can climb 10–20 feet with little effort. A strong trellis helps keep vines organized and easy to harvest.

→ Learn how to grow Malabar spinach here.

8. Cucumbers

Cucumbers are classic vertical growers. Grown up a trellis, cucumber vines produce straighter, healthier fruit that’s easier to pick. Encourage young vines to find the trellis, and they’ll do the rest with their curly tendrils.

→ Learn how to grow cucumbers here.

→ Learn how to grow Armenian cucumbers here.

9. Cucamelons

These adorable “mini watermelons” thrive when given something to climb. Cucamelon vines are delicate but vigorous and quickly latch onto a trellis. Growing cucamelons vertically keeps their fruit clean, easy to spot, and simple to harvest.

→ Learn how to grow cucamelons here.

10. Winter Squash

Vining winter squash plants (like pumpkins and butternut) can stretch 20 feet or more! Training squash vines up a trellis saves tons of space and helps keep pests and diseases at bay. Strong tendrils latch on, but you may want to sling heavier fruits as they mature.

• Learn how to grow winter squash here.
• Read the pumpkin growing guide here.
• Learn how to grow butternut squash here.

More Vertical Gardening Inspiration

Looking for more ideas and support structures for vertical gardening? Check out these helpful resources:

• Using Ladders in the Garden
• How to Use a Ladder Mesh Block Trellis
• 10 Ideas for Vertical Gardening
• 10 More Ways to Grow Vertically

Need help selecting what to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

Watch my YouTube videos for tips and inspiration on growing vertically!

Final Thoughts

Vertical vegetable gardening is a beautiful and practical way to maximize your garden space. Whether you’re growing peas in the spring, Armenian cucumbers in the summer, or winter squash in the fall, providing your crops with a structure to climb helps them stay healthier, easier to harvest, and more productive.

If you enjoyed this post, please share it. I’d love to hear about your favorite vegetables to grow vertically — leave a comment below.

The post Vertical Gardening: 10 Vegetables that Love to Climb appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index

• Why Grow Fava Beans?
• When to Plant Fava Beans
• Seeds or Transplants
• Caring for Fava Beans
• Harvesting and Using Fava Beans
• Chop-and-Drop Cover Crop
• Saving Seeds
• Health Benefits of Fava Beans
• Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
• Further Reading on Beans and Garden Support

Why Grow Fava Beans?

• Heat and Frost Tolerance: Fava beans (especially the ‘Vroma’ variety) can handle mild frosts and perform well even when temperatures begin to climb.
  
• Long Harvest Window: A single planting can yield beans for many weeks.
  
• Cover Crop Benefits: When temperatures soar and plants stop producing, chop them down and drop them in place as a “green mulch.” Top with compost, and plant your next crop immediately. The spent fava plants break down quickly in warm weather, adding valuable organic matter to the soil.
  
• Early Blossoms for Pollinators: Fava beans bloom early in the season—often in January—which helps feed local pollinators when other flowers aren’t available.

When to Plant Fava Beans

In cooler or cold winter zones, start them in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. In mild-winter climates, sow them in fall for a winter-into-spring crop.

Here in the low desert, I like to plant in October. You can plant from October through January, but remember, the later you plant, the shorter the harvest window. Planting in fall allows the beans to grow during cooler months and keep producing until it gets hot.

Once the cool season ends, switch from fava beans to a warm-season crop like lima beans. Learn how to grow lima beans for a summer harvest that stores well.

Seeds or Transplants

I’ve had equal success starting favas from seeds and transplants—they tolerate transplant shock better than many legumes.

My favorite for warm, short-day winters is Vroma, whose blooms aren’t triggered by day length, while the classic Broad Windsor remains the most widely grown variety.

Fava beans do best in loamy, well-draining soil—they’ll tolerate heavier soils if they drain reasonably well, but avoid waterlogged spots.

• Boost Nitrogen Fixing: To supercharge nitrogen uptake, treat your seeds with a legume inoculant. These products contain Rhizobium bacteria that colonize bean roots and form extra nodules, which pull more nitrogen from the air into your soil. This is the one I use on Amazon.
• Soil Prep: Amend the bed with a generous layer of compost and a handful of worm castings before planting.
• Spacing: Sow four fava beans per square foot—about 8 inches (20 cm) apart—whether you’re using square-foot gardening or traditional rows.
• Depth: Plant seeds 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) deep.
• Moisture: Keep soil consistently moist (not waterlogged) until seedlings emerge.
• Thinning: If direct-sown seedlings sprout too close together, thin them back so each plant has about 8 inches (20 cm) of space to grow.

With these steps—especially adding an inoculant—you’ll maximize both healthy plant growth and the nitrogen-fixing benefits fava beans bring to your garden.

Caring for Fava Beans

Support and Staking

Fava bean plants can grow tall and top-heavy, especially when loaded with pods. They often flop over, so be ready with:

• Individual Stakes: I put a bamboo stake next to each stem and clip it in place.
  
• Corralling Method: Drive stakes at the corners of your bed and run two tiers of string around the plants to keep them upright.

Choose whichever method is easiest—this simple support will prevent plants from bending or breaking under their own weight.

Watering Needs

Check your soil. Cooler temperatures will mean less watering, but as temperatures climb, or in the fall when it’s still warm you may need to water more often. A layer of mulch helps to keep the moisture in the soil. 

Pinching Tops for Better Pods

Once the main stem is loaded with flowers, pinch out the top few inches. This encourages larger pods and can help reduce aphid attacks at the plant’s tender tips.

Pests and Diseases

Fava beans are generally resilient to pests and diseases in cooler weather. As temperatures climb, you might spot a few aphids—luckily, ladybugs and lacewings will gobble keep them in check. When it gets hot (above 80°F/27°C), you may notice occasional blackening or spotting on leaves and pods, usually from an aphid-transmitted virus. That’s your cue that the fava season is winding down.

 Learn more about using beneficial insects as pest control in this guide.

Other Problems: Diseases like chocolate spot fungus or rust can occur in very damp conditions, so ensure good airflow by not overcrowding plants. Favas are resilient, especially if planted in well-draining soil and mild temperatures.

Harvesting and Using Fava Beans

Fava beans typically reach maturity around 75–90 days from direct sowing. 

When to Harvest

• Young Pods: Many gardeners prefer to harvest pods at “finger size,” when they can be eaten whole. They’re tender, sweet, and delicious.
  
• Mid-Size Pods: At this stage, you can shell the beans, briefly blanch them, and slip off their outer skins for a creamy texture.
  
• Dry Beans: Leave pods on the plant until they turn dark brown. Shell them for long-term storage, remembering to soak the beans overnight before cooking.

Harvesting Tips

Pods grow in pairs along the stem. To pick them without damaging the plant, clip them off with hand pruners or try this method:

• Gently push the pod downward toward the main stem.
• Snap it off in a single smooth motion (it’s often easiest to harvest two pods at a time if they’re growing next to each other).

Fava beans taste best right off the plant and can be kept in the fridge for only a few days before losing flavor and texture. If you plan to shell and freeze them, do so promptly for maximum freshness.

How to Prepare 

Experiment with different stages and cooking methods to find your favorite flavor and texture.

• Young, tender pods can be snapped and eaten raw (if you enjoy that mild “green” flavor) or steamed quickly.
• Once shelled and skinned, mid-sized beans are lovely sautéed with garlic or onions.
• Mashed or pureed favas make a tasty dip similar to hummus. 

Edamame beans offer another delicious garden option—check out my tips for growing edamame successfully at home.

Chop-and-Drop Cover Crop (with or without a Harvest)

One of the best things about fava beans is how you can tailor them to your garden goals:

• Peak Nitrogen Production (No Harvest): If you’re looking purely for a quick, high-nitrogen cover crop, sow favas and let them grow until they start to form buds, but before the pods develop. At that point, cut the plants at ground level and leave the roots in place. Those living roots are hopefully packed with nodules full of atmospheric nitrogen, which will feed your soil as they break down.
• Cover Crop + Tasty Harvest: If you want both organic matter and fresh beans, let your plants flower and set pods, then chop—and still leave the roots! You’ll enjoy a harvest of beans, and when production slows, cut the stalks at the soil surface.

How I Do It in My Garden:

1. Cut back at the right time: Decide whether you’re after nitrogen only (chop at bud stage) or both beans and nitrogen (chop after you’ve harvested pods).
2. Chop at Ground Level: Use garden shears to cut the plants right at the soil line, leaving the roots undisturbed.
3. Spread and Plant: Chop the stalks and scatter them evenly over the bed. Top with a thin layer of compost, then let them break down or if you’re impatient like me, go ahead and plant your next crop—zinnias, summer veggies, or whatever you like.
4. Watch It Work: In warm weather, the fava residue breaks down rapidly, enriching your soil with organic matter and nitrogen.

If you’re looking for cover crops that stand up to high temperatures, check out my guide on Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops for Summer Gardens to discover options that thrive when it gets hot.

Saving Seeds

If you like the variety you grew, saving seeds is easy:

• Allow some pods to fully mature and turn dark brown on the plant.
• Harvest the pods and let them dry thoroughly.
• Shell the beans and store them in a cool, dry place.
• Next season (or whenever you’re ready), plant these saved beans for a repeat performance.

Learn more about how to save seeds in this guide.

Health Benefits of Fava Beans

Fava beans aren’t just great for the garden—they’re great for you, too! Here are a few reasons to include them in your meals:

• Rich in Protein: Favas provide a good plant-based protein source, making them a favorite among vegetarians and vegans.
• High in Fiber: They’re known to support digestion and help keep you feeling full longer.
• Packed with Vitamins and Minerals: Favas contain folate, iron, manganese, and other essential nutrients that support overall health.
• Potential Heart Health Perks: Like many legumes, they may help maintain healthy cholesterol levels when included in a balanced diet.

Always remember to consult with a healthcare professional if you have any dietary concerns, especially if you have conditions like G6PD deficiency, as fava beans can pose risks in certain cases.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I grow fava beans in containers or small spaces?
A: Absolutely. Choose a deep container (at least 12–18 inches) to accommodate their root system, and provide adequate support as the plants grow tall.

Q: Do fava beans really improve the soil?
A: Yes. Fava beans are legumes, which means they have nitrogen-fixing nodules on their roots. They add nitrogen to the soil—especially if you chop and drop them before they produce beans.

Q: My fava beans are flowering, but I see no pods. Is that normal?
A: Sometimes it takes a bit of time for pods to form after flowering. Cooler temperatures and plenty of pollinators help. If temperatures spike, flowering can stall, so a little patience is key.

Q: How often should I water fava beans?
A: In cooler months, they don’t need frequent watering. As it warms up, keep an eye on the soil moisture and water when the top inch starts to dry out. Avoid waterlogged conditions, though.

Q: Do I need to peel the beans after shelling them?
A: This is a matter of taste. Larger beans can have a tougher outer skin that some people prefer to remove after blanching. Younger beans are often tender enough to eat as is.

Further Reading on Beans and Garden Support

If you’re excited to grow more beans in your garden—or want to explore new ways to support and care for them—check out these other posts on my website:

• Growing Beans: How and When to Plant Pole and Green Beans
• How to Grow Asparagus Beans: Growing Yard Long Beans
• Plant Support Netting: The Secret to Perfect Cut Flowers
• How to Grow Black-Eyed Peas
• How to Grow Tepary Beans
• Borlotti Beans: How to Grow This Garden Favorite
• How to Grow Edamame
• How to Grow Lima Beans: Complete Guide and Tips for Hot Climates

You’ll find tips on sowing, spacing, trellising, and more—so you can enjoy a successful harvest and keep your garden growing strong!

Fava beans are a crop I will always make room for in my cool season garden. They’re delicious and simple to grow. Broad beans produce well, fix nitrogen, and leave my soil better than they found it. Plus, the early blooms feed hungry pollinators at a time when flowers can be scarce. I hope you’ll give them a try. 

Source for Fava Bean Health Benefits

Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health. The Nutrition Source: Legumes. https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/legumes/

If this post about how to grow fava beans in warm climates was helpful, please share it.

The post Fava Beans: Cover Crop & Edible Harvest appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

• Pumpkins are a Type of Winter Squash
• Plant at the Right Time in Arizona
• Best Pumpkin (and Squash) Varieties for Arizona
• Give Them Room (and Sun!) to Grow
• Water Deeply and Consistently
• Feed Your Pumpkins Well
• Facilitate (or Assist) Pollination
• Control Common Pests and Diseases
• Harvest at the Right Time
• Cure and Store for Longevity

Pumpkins are a Type of Winter Squash

Before diving into the specifics, it’s helpful to know why pumpkins are considered a type of winter squash:

• Thick Rind: Like other winter squash, pumpkins have a thick rind that allows them to be stored much longer than summer squash (e.g., zucchini, patty-pan squash).
• Distinct Seed Cavity: Pumpkins have a hollow seed cavity, in contrast to summer squash where seeds are distributed throughout the flesh.
• Flavor Development: Pumpkins, butternut squash (and winter squash in general) improve in flavor as they mature, while summer squash is usually best when harvested young.
• Longer Growing Season: Winter squash (including pumpkins) often requires 90+ frost-free days. This is one reason timing is so important in a climate like Arizona’s.

Get more tips for growing winter squash in this guide.

Plant Pumpkins at the Right Time

When to Plant Pumpkins

Pumpkins thrive in warm soil and mild weather. While exact planting times vary by climate, the following guidelines will help you get your pumpkins off to a great start:

• Indoor Starts: Sow seeds indoors 1-2 weeks before your last expected frost.
• Outdoor Transplant: Move your seedlings to the garden about two weeks after the frost date.
• Direct Seeding: If you prefer planting directly in the garden, wait until early summer when soil temperatures naturally hover between 60–90°F (15.5–32°C).

In cooler regions, starting seeds indoors ensures a head start when soil temperatures are slow to rise. In hotter climates, like the low desert of Arizona, you can take advantage of multiple planting windows.

Low Desert of Arizona Planting Dates

If you’re growing standard-sized pumpkins that don’t require an extra-long season, here are the recommended planting dates for success in Arizona’s low desert:

• Spring Planting: Sow seeds outdoors in February or March, about 1–2 weeks after the last frost date, when the soil reaches at least 65°F. These pumpkins will be ready to harvest in May or June.
• Monsoon Season Planting: Plant again in July and early August to maximize monsoon moisture. Those pumpkins will be harvest-ready by October or November—perfect timing for Halloween! Learn more about monsoon gardening in this guide.
• Supersized Pumpkin Planting Dates: If you dream of growing “super-sized” pumpkins, start seeds indoors and plant transplants into the garden in January. Provide frost protection (such as row covers or garden fabric). Limit the plant to just one or two developing fruits so the vine can channel all its energy into growing the biggest pumpkin possible. To keep giant pumpkins growing steadily, continue to mulch well, fertilize regularly, and provide shade in the hottest part of summer. Get more tips for summer gardening in Arizona in this guide.

Tip: If you have a short growing window or prefer to start seeds indoors, sow them in 4-inch pots about 2–4 weeks before your outdoor planting date. Do not let the seedlings become root-bound; transplant them once the soil is sufficiently warm.

Best Pumpkin (and Squash) Varieties for Arizona

(Click the name for seed sources)

• Jack Be Little: Perfect for small spaces or container gardens, these tiny pumpkins can be grown up a trellis or these ladder mesh trellises. They’re mainly decorative but still edible if you want to try them in the kitchen.
• Tatume Squash: A versatile favorite in hot climates. Harvest it young for a zucchini-like summer squash, or let it fully mature for a pumpkin-like winter squash. The mature fruits resemble traditional pumpkins, making them a fun alternative.
• Sugar Pie: These smaller pumpkins are ideal if you want a reliable harvest for pies or roasting. They’re compact enough for most home gardens and produce wonderfully sweet, smooth flesh.
• Lumina: A white-skinned novelty pumpkin that brings a stunning contrast to fall displays. Similar in size to traditional jack-o’-lantern types, they have pale, sweet flesh perfect for pies and soups.
• Cinderella (Rouge Vif d’Etampes): Known for its flattened, carriage-like shape, this French heirloom adds old-world charm to your garden and bakes into sweet, velvety pumpkin dishes.

If you’re aiming for super-sized pumpkins, pick a giant variety (like ‘Atlantic Giant’ or ‘Big Max‘) and limit the plant to one or two fruits, directing all resources toward growing the biggest pumpkin possible.

Give Them Room (and Sun!) to Grow

Pumpkin vines can quickly sprawl and take over a garden bed. In Arizona, you must factor in space and the sun’s intensity. Aim for 6–8 hours of direct sun each day. Once temperatures climb above 90°F, provide afternoon shade for pumpkin plants. 

Make sure your soil is loose to at least 1 foot deep. Sow 2–3 seeds about 1 inch deep in mounds (or “hills”) 2–5 feet apart, depending on the variety. Thin to the strongest seedling once they’re a few inches tall by snipping the weaker ones at soil level. 

If space is limited, consider training vines up a sturdy trellis or arbor. To prevent breakage, you may need to support large fruit with slings (“melon cradles”). 

Avoid planting pumpkins where you grew squash, cucumbers, or melons in the previous season to prevent pests and diseases.

Water Deeply and Consistently

Arizona’s hot, dry climate means pumpkins need consistent, heavy watering. Once vines are 3–4 inches tall, add a generous layer of mulch around the base of the plants. This helps retain moisture in the soil and keeps roots cool. Learn more about what to use for mulch in this guide.

Water slowly and deeply, allowing moisture to reach the roots. Wait until the top two inches of soil dry out before watering again. Water at the base of the plant to minimize the risk of powdery mildew. Leaves might wilt in the afternoon due to heat stress; they typically perk back up in the evening. If leaves are still wilted once the sun goes down, check the soil; they may need additional water. Learn more about how to water your garden in this guide.

Feed Your Pumpkins Well

Oversized plants and fruit require rich soil and regular feeding. Before planting, add worm castings and a thick layer of compost to the planting area. Once pumpkins start producing blossoms and setting fruit, feed them with an organic liquid or organic granular fertilizer monthly to supply the nutrients they need. Once established, pumpkins grow rapidly, so keeping them well-fed supports healthy vines and larger yields.

Allowing pumpkin vines to root where they touch the ground helps them absorb additional moisture and nutrients, leading to stronger, healthier plants.

Facilitate (or Assist) Pollination

Pumpkin vines produce separate male and female flowers, often with the male flowers appearing first. Male flowers have a long, thin stem. Female flowers have a small swelling (the “mini pumpkin”) at the base. You may need to hand pollinate if you notice female flowers shriveling without fruit development. Gently remove a male flower, peel back its petals, and brush pollen onto the stigma of the female flower.

Pollination is less successful in extreme heat (100°F+). Planting within the recommended dates helps ensure the best chance for viable pollen and fruit set.

Control Common Pests and Diseases

Healthy, well-maintained plants are your first line of defense. Still, it’s crucial to stay vigilant. Check daily under leaves for signs of squash bugs, vine borers, or cucumber beetles. Remove or crush their eggs and handpick adult pests. Get more tips for squash bug prevention in this guide.

To prevent powdery mildew, allow good airflow around vines and water at the base rather than overhead. At the first sign of powdery mildew (white patches on leaves), remove affected foliage and consider using a baking soda spray. Learn more about how to prevent powdery mildew here.

Harvest at the Right Time

Check the rind before harvesting. Gently press a fingernail into the pumpkin’s skin. If it resists denting, it’s a good sign the pumpkin is mature. A drying, shriveling stem also indicates the fruit is near readiness. Use pruners or a sharp knife to harvest, leaving a 2–3-inch stem attached. 

Cure and Store for Longevity

Proper curing helps your pumpkins last well beyond the harvest season. Let freshly harvested pumpkins sit in a warm, sunny spot for about 10 days to toughen their skin and develop sweetness. If scorching temperatures or frost threaten, bring pumpkins indoors to cure by a sunny window for two weeks.

Wipe off dirt. You can use a very light bleach or sanitizing wipe on the rind to reduce the chances of rot. Place cured pumpkins in a cool (50–60°F), dry area with good ventilation. If stored properly, many pumpkins can last several months. Inspect periodically and remove any that show signs of soft spots or decay.

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