Pomegranates are one of the easiest fruit trees to grow in the low desert. They thrive in the heat, don’t mind our alkaline soils, and seem made for tough desert conditions. In spring, they’re covered in bright red blooms, followed by golden yellow leaves in the fall. Iif you can keep the leaf-footed bugs away, you’ll get a delicious harvest too. Here are my best tips for growing pomegranates in the low desert.

What This Post Covers

• Is a Pomegranate a Tree or a Bush?
• Which Pomegranate Variety Should I Plant?
• When and How to Plant a Pomegranate Tree
• How to Care for and Prune a Pomegranate Tree
• Why Doesn’t My Pomegranate Tree Have Leaves in Spring?
• Why Are There Flowers But No Fruit?
• How to Tell When a Pomegranate Is Ready to Harvest
• The Best Way to Eat a Pomegranate
• Why Is My Pomegranate Fruit Splitting?
• Why Does My Fruit Look Rotten Inside?
• What Can I Do About Leaf-Footed Bugs?
• Final Tips for Growing Pomegranates

Is a Pomegranate a Tree or a Bush?

Pomegranates (Punica granatum) are deciduous and typically grown as small trees that reach 12 to 20 feet in height and width. They can also be grown as large bushes by allowing the suckers at the base to grow.

To grow as a tree, remove suckers and train the plant to form a multi-trunked shape. Dwarf varieties are ideal for containers.

Which Pomegranate Variety Should I Plant?

Choose a variety suited to your climate. Some types perform better in cooler zones, while others thrive in heat. These are good options:

• Balegal – Large, pale pink fruit with sweet flesh. Hardy to zone 7
• Crab – Medium to large bronze fruit with tart, rich flavor
• Early Wonderful – Large red fruit with a tart flavor. Very productive
• Granada – Crimson fruit with semi-sweet flavor. Matures early
• Sweet – Medium pink fruit with very sweet flesh. Productive
• Utah Sweet – Soft seeds, pink skin and flowers, sweet flavor
• Wonderful – Large red fruit with tangy-sweet flavor and soft seeds. Thrives in Arizona

For more ideas about what to plant for a continuous harvest, see this guide to year-round fruit tree harvests

When and How to Plant a Pomegranate Tree

In hot climates like Arizona, plant pomegranates in spring or fall.

Planting tips:

• Choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight
• Pomegranates prefer well-drained soil but tolerate poor or alkaline soil
• Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the nursery container
• In colder zones, plant near a south-facing wall or grow in a container that can be moved indoors during winter

How to Care for and Prune a Pomegranate Tree

Once established, pomegranates are low-maintenance. Here are care tips:

• Watering: Water deeply during summer and more often when newly planted
• Fertilizing: Apply compost or an organic fertilizer in February, and 2 to 3 times a year as needed
• Pruning: Not required, but you can prune to control size, remove suckers, or shape the tree. Prune in late winter after leaf drop
• Thinning: Leave one fruit every 6 inches. This helps grow larger fruit and prevents branch damage

For more guidance on managing fruit trees, see this post about pruning fruit trees

Why Doesn’t My Pomegranate Tree Have Leaves in Spring?

Pomegranates are slow to leaf out in spring. Be patient. If your area experienced temperatures below 10°F, some damage may have occurred. Wait until late spring to determine if any trunks are dead, then prune as needed.

Why Are There Flowers But No Fruit?

Trees younger than three years often bloom without fruiting. For older trees, fruit drop or failure to form can result from:

• Overwatering or poor drainage
• Lack of sunlight
• Excess nitrogen fertilizer

Planting more than one tree, even of the same variety, can improve fruit set. Although pomegranates are self-fruitful, cross-pollination can help.

How to Tell When a Pomegranate Is Ready to Harvest

Pomegranates ripen from August to November, depending on the variety. Look for these signs:

• Skin changes from shiny to matte and deepens in color
• Fruit changes from round to slightly angular as seeds swell
• Stem and blossom ends flatten
• Fruit sounds metallic when tapped
• Ripe fruit twists easily off the branch (though cutting is better)
• If the fruit splits or falls, it is ready to pick

In late fall, you may notice a second, smaller harvest of pomegranates. These fruits are often very sweet but may split open. Keep an eye out and pick them before the birds do, or leave them for the birds to enjoy.

The Best Way to Eat a Pomegranate

To remove seeds easily:

1. Cut the top off the pomegranate (the blossom end).
2. Score the ridges on the outer skin.
3. Hold the fruit over a bowl of water, cut side down.
4. Tap the back firmly with a wooden spoon. Seeds will fall out into the water.
5. The pith will float to the top of the water, scoop it out and remove it.
6. Ripe seeds will fall to the bottom of the bowl. Drain off water and enjoy!

Try this Pomegranate Jalapeño Cream Cheese Dip. It’s a family favorite

Why Is My Pomegranate Fruit Splitting?

Splitting can happen when:

• Fruit is left on the tree too long
• Soil moisture fluctuates (especially with dry conditions, heavy watering, or rain)
• Nearly-ripe fruit receives a sudden increase in water

Apply mulch and maintain consistent moisture to reduce splitting.

Why Does My Fruit Look Rotten Inside?

Fungal issues like Alternaria or Aspergillus rot often cause this. It can also result from leaf-footed bugs transmitting yeast.

To reduce this problem:

• Avoid overwatering or water stress
• Clean up dropped fruit and dead branches
• Remove cracked or overripe fruit from the tree

What Can I Do About Leaf-Footed Bugs?

These bugs pierce fruit and feed on the juices, damaging crops. Control them by:

• Learning to identify all life stages (eggs, nymphs, adults)
• Inspecting your tree often, especially in the morning
• Removing bugs by hand and destroying them
• Using insecticidal soap on young nymphs
• Cleaning up overwintering spots such as woodpiles, weeds, or old fruit

Learn more about leaf-footed bugs and organic pest control

Final Tips for Growing Pomegranates

• Plant in full sun with good drainage
• Water deeply and mulch regularly
• Prune after leaf drop for best results
• Thin fruit for larger harvests
• Watch for splitting or rot near harvest time
• Stay ahead of pest problems, especially leaf-footed bugs

For more seasonal guidance, see the Arizona fruit growing calendar and other fruit tree posts

If this post was helpful, please consider sharing it with other gardeners.

The post How to Grow Pomegranates: Planting, Care, and Harvest Tips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Many types of fruit and fruit trees thrive in the low desert of Arizona and are surprisingly easy to grow with the right variety and care. This Arizona Fruit Planting Guide provides planting dates and essential growing tips for 25 types of fruit that do well in our climate. With the right mix of trees, it’s possible to enjoy fresh fruit from your garden nearly year-round.

The low desert includes areas below 3,500 feet in elevation, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro regions and other parts of the Southwestern U.S. with similar growing conditions. Explore the Desert Gardening page for everything you need to grow in hot, dry climates.

When choosing deciduous fruit trees, pay attention to their chill hour requirements—the number of hours between 32°F and 45°F needed to set fruit. In the low desert, select varieties that require 400 chill hours or fewer. All varieties listed in this guide meet that requirement. Keep in mind that warmer winters may reduce chill hours, which can lead to variable fruit production from year to year.

Helpful Resources for Growing Fruit in Arizona’s Low Desert:

If you’re looking to grow fruit successfully in the low desert, these posts will guide you every step of the way:

How to Label Fruit Trees – Never forget what you planted—use these labeling tips to stay organized season after season.

What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests – Get inspired by a seasonal planting plan so you always have something to harvest.

How and Why to Thin Fruit Trees – Thinning helps ensure healthy fruit and prevents branch breakage—learn when and how to do it.

When and How to Prune Fruit Trees – Timing and technique matter. This post explains the best way to prune for productivity and shape.

How to Create a Permaculture Food Forest – Design a layered, sustainable fruit-growing system that thrives in a desert climate.

Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizing in 4 Simple Steps – Learn the yearly fertilizing schedule and what your fruit trees need to stay healthy.

Planting Bare Root and Container Fruit Trees: A Step-by-Step Guide – Whether you’re planting in winter or spring, follow this guide for a strong start.

Thriving Edible Perennials for the Low Desert – Discover which low-maintenance perennials add beauty and productivity to your garden.

Still not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index has you covered, with guides from apples to strawberries organized A–Z for easy browsing. Use it as your go-to resource for planning and care tips, and if you’re ready to learn even more, join me for a gardening class to gain step-by-step confidence in your garden.

Click on the fruit name to go directly to that fruit:

Apple

How to Grow Apples in Arizona:

Apples can thrive in the low desert if you choose low-chill varieties. With proper pruning and care, they produce crisp, delicious fruit in late spring or early summer.

Varieties of apple trees that grow well in Arizona:

• Anna – Self-fruitful (200 hours)
• Beverly Hills – Self-fruitful (300 hours)
• Ein Shemer – Self-fruitful (100 hours)
• Gordon – Self-fruitful (400 hours)
• Golden Dorsett – Self-fruitful (100 hours)

The best time to plant apple trees in Arizona: Fall or spring when planted from container plants. Bare root trees should be planted in January or early February.

Months to harvest: June through September, depending on variety.

Tips for growing apple trees in Arizona:

• Fertilize and prune before bud break.
• Prune lightly, removing only ⅓ of limbs. 
• Thin fruit to 1-2 per bunch after fruit set. 

Apricot

How to Grow Apricots in Arizona:

Apricots are well-adapted to Arizona’s climate and ripen early—often before summer heat hits. Choose low-chill types and protect blossoms from late frosts.

Varieties of apricot trees that grow well in Arizona:

• Gold Kist – self-fruitful (300 hours)
• Katy – self-fruitful (400 hours) 
• Modesto – self-fruitful (300-400 hours)
• Blenheim (Royal) – self-fruitful (400 hours) 

The best time to plant apricot trees in Arizona: Fall or spring when planted from container plants. Bare-root trees should be planted in January or early February.

Months to harvest: May – June

Tips for growing apricot trees in Arizona:

• Fertilize and prune before bud break.
• Fertilize monthly during the growing season.
• Thin apricots to at least 2 inches apart as soon as possible after fruit set.

Asian Pear

How to Grow Asian Pears in Arizona:

Asian pears combine the crisp texture of apples with the sweetness of pears. They grow well in full sun with minimal disease issues and need thinning for best fruit size.

Varieties of Asian pear trees that grow well in Arizona:

• Shinseiki – self-fruitful (350-400 hours)
• Yakumo – pollinator required (450 hours)

Best time to plant Asian pear trees in Arizona: Fall or spring when planted from container plants. Bare root trees should be planted in January or early February.

Months to harvest: May through June, depending on variety.

Tips for growing Asian pears in Arizona:

• Fertilize and prune before bud break.
• Fertilize monthly during the growing season. 
• Thin pears to at least 4 inches apart as soon as possible after fruit set.

Banana

How to Grow Bananas in Arizona:

Bananas can grow in sheltered microclimates in the low desert. They need rich soil, frequent watering, and protection from frost and extreme summer sun.

Varieties that grow well in Arizona:

• Rajapuri, Dwarf Cavendish, Dwarf Orinoco

Best time to plant:
Late spring or early summer, after soil warms

Months to harvest:
12–18 months after planting, depending on conditions

Tips:

• Remove suckers to direct energy to fruiting stalk.
• Best grown in protected courtyards or near block walls for warmth.
• Mulch heavily and water consistently.

Arizona Fruit Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Fruit

Blackberry

How to Grow Blackberries in Arizona:

Blackberries grow as thornless or thorny canes and produce juicy, sweet fruit in early summer. Plant in rich soil with afternoon shade for best results in Arizona.

Varieties of blackberries that grow well in Arizona:

• Brazos – thorny; large berries; heavy yield
• Rosborogh – large, sweet fruit

Best time to plant blackberry transplants in Arizona: February – March and October

Months to harvest: Begins in early May

Tips for growing blackberries in Arizona:

• Water frequently when young. Once established, water deeply. Water more frequently during dry/hot weather, when flowering, and when fruit is ripening.
• Fertilize in early March and in late July.
• Blackberry canes are biennial. The canes are fruitless the first year, and then bear fruit the second year, and die after fruiting. Remove all fruiting canes in June after harvest.

Cherry (Including Barbados Cherry)

How to Grow Cherries in Arizona:

Traditional cherry trees can be challenging to grow in the low desert due to chill hour requirements and sensitivity to heat, but low-chill varieties like ‘Minnie Royal’ and ‘Royal Lee’ may succeed with care. Barbados cherry, on the other hand, is a tropical, heat-loving shrub that grows well in Arizona and produces small, vitamin C-rich fruit with minimal fuss.

Varieties of cherries that grow well in Arizona:

• Minnie Royal and Royal Lee (require cross-pollination)
• Barbados Cherry – Also called acerola cherry; not a true cherry but a great alternative for desert gardeners

Best time to plant cherries in Arizona:
Late fall through early spring, when temperatures are mild and roots can establish before summer heat.

Months to harvest:

• Traditional cherries: May to early June
• Barbados cherry: Multiple harvests from late spring through fall

Tips for growing cherries in Arizona:

• Traditional cherries require low-chill hours (300–400) and need protection from intense sun and drying winds.
• Plant Minnie Royal and Royal Lee together for cross-pollination.
• Provide afternoon shade and consistent moisture during blooming and fruiting.
• Barbados cherry thrives in full sun, tolerates high heat, and benefits from some frost protection when young.
• Prune Barbados cherry lightly to shape and encourage branching; protect both types from birds when fruiting.

Citrus

How to Grow Citrus in Arizona:

Citrus is a staple in Arizona gardens thanks to its heat tolerance and year-round greenery. Choose varieties based on harvest time to enjoy fruit from fall through spring.

Varieties of citrus that grow well in Arizona: Nearly all varieties do well in the low desert of Arizona. Calamondins and kumquats are the most cold hardy; lemons and limes are the least.

Best time to plant citrus in Arizona: (usually mid to late February). Citrus can be planted from this time through May. Do not plant citrus from June through September. A second planting window for citrus occurs in the fall, from October to December. 

Months to harvest: Late fall through early spring depending on variety.

Tips for growing citrus in Arizona: 

• Newly-planted citrus is more susceptible to frost and needs frost protection. 
• Fertilize mature citrus on Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day. 
• Heavy pruning should be done after danger of frost is passed. 
• Paint exposed bark to protect from sun.

Read this article for more information about how to grow citrus in Arizona.

Date

How to Grow Dates in Arizona:

Date palms are perfectly suited for the desert—they love heat and low humidity. You’ll need both a male and female tree for fruit production and plenty of space.

Varieties of dates that grow well in Arizona: Date Palm

Best time to plant date trees in Arizona: Spring and fall

Months to harvest: Summer

Tips for growing dates in Arizona:

• Trees are large, growing to 100 feet tall and wide.
• Get damaged at temperatures below 18°F.

Arizona Fruit Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Fruit

Fig

How to Grow Figs in Arizona:

Figs thrive in Arizona’s hot, dry climate and are nearly foolproof once established. They produce sweet fruit in summer and often again in fall.

Varieties of figs that grow well in Arizona:

• Black Mission – large, long-lived tree
• Brown Turkey – better in higher elevations (2000-3000 feet)
• Conadria – tolerates heat well
• White Kadota – hot weather helps ripen

Best time to plant fig trees in Arizona: Early spring and fall

Months to harvest: May and late fall

Tips for growing fig trees in Arizona: 

• Hardy to 10°F.
• Fertilize container trees with aged manure in January.
• Trees grow very large but can be pruned for size or grown in containers.

Read this article for more information about how to grow figs.

Goji Berry

How to Grow Goji Berries in Arizona:

Goji berries are hardy shrubs that tolerate heat and alkaline soil, producing small, nutritious berries. They grow best with full sun and moderate water.

Best time to plant goji berries in Arizona: Spring and fall

Months to harvest: Spring and late fall

Tips for growing goji berries in Arizona: 

• Berries form on the current year’s wood. 
• Pruning encourages new growth and keeps the plant open for light and air circulation. 
• Plants begin producing at 2 years old and reach maximum production after 3-5 years. 

Grapes

How to Grow Grapes in Arizona:

Grapes love Arizona sunshine and can be trained on arbors or trellises. Choose varieties that ripen before the monsoon season for best results.

Varieties of grapes that grow well in Arizona:

• Thompson Seedless – classic green grape, thrives in full sun, great for drying into raisins
• Ruby Seedless – red, sweet, and crisp; needs heat to fully develop flavor
• Beauty Seedless – early ripening; good for fresh eating, prefers warm but not extreme heat
• Flame Seedless – vigorous and productive; excellent in hot, dry climates like the low desert

Best time to plant grape transplants in Arizona: February 15 – March and October

Months to harvest: July – August

Tips for growing grapes in Arizona: 

• Roots go 2 feet deep; plant in rich soil.
• Water slowly, deeply, and infrequently. During the summer, water every 7 to 10 days.
• Fertilize mature grapes in February and May.
• Learn how to train and prune.
• Look out for Western grape leaf skeletonizer; use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt.) to control.

Read this article for more information about how to grow grapes.

Ground Cherry

How to Grow Ground Cherries in Arizona:

Ground cherries are small, husk-covered fruits with a tropical flavor. These heat-loving annuals grow easily from seed and make a great addition to summer gardens.

Varieties of ground cherries that grow well in Arizona:

• Aunt Molly’s – sweet, citrus flavor; great for jams and snacking
• New Hanover – tropical taste; larger fruit; loves heat and sun

Plant seeds indoors: December – January and May – June
Plant transplants outdoors: February 15 – March and July 15 – September

Months to harvest: May – July and October – November

Tips for growing ground cherries in Arizona: 

• Seeds are slow to germinate. Start seeds indoors 6 – 8 weeks before planting.
• Plants grow large; provide support.
• Ground cherries are ready to harvest when they fall to the ground. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow ground cherries. 

Arizona Fruit Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Fruits (continued)

Jujube (Chinese Date)

How to Grow Jujubes (Chinese Dates) in Arizona:

Jujubes are incredibly drought- and heat-tolerant trees that produce crisp, apple-like fruit. Once established, they require very little care and thrive in poor soil.

Varieties of jujube (Chinese date) that grow well in Arizona:

• Li – large, round fruit; sweet and crisp fresh
• Lang – best dried; firmer and more tart than Li
• Sherwood – late ripening; flavorful and less prone to cracking

Best time to plant jujube in Arizona: Fall or spring

Months to harvest: Late summer to fall

Tips for growing jujube in Arizona: 

• Hardy to -20°F.
• Space trees 15-30 feet apart, depending on variety.
• Deciduous; has thorns.
• Allow fruit to drop for harvest.
• Drought tolerant.
• Does not need additional fertilizer.
• Prune in winter while dormant.

Loquat

How to Grow Loquats in Arizona:

Loquats are attractive evergreen trees that produce sweet, tangy fruit in early spring. They can grow in Arizona with afternoon shade and frost protection.

Varieties that grow well in Arizona:

• Big Jim, Gold Nugget, Champagne

Best time to plant:
Fall or early spring

Months to harvest:
March to May

Tips:

• May not produce reliably every year in colder microclimates.
• Provide afternoon shade and protect from hard frosts when young.
• Water deeply during fruit development.

Moringa

How to Grow Moringa in Arizona:

Also called the drumstick or miracle tree, moringa thrives in heat and poor soil. It’s grown for its edible leaves, pods, and flowers and makes a great addition to edible landscapes.

Varieties that grow well in Arizona:

• Moringa oleifera is most common and widely adapted

Best Time to plant:
Spring, once soil is warm

Months to harvest:
Leaves and pods can be harvested throughout the warm season

Tips:

• Requires frequent harvesting to keep manageable.
• Fast-growing; can be grown as a tree or pruned into a shrub.
• Very frost-sensitive—regrows from roots after mild freezes.

Mulberry

How to Grow Mulberries in Arizona:

Mulberries are fast-growing, low-maintenance trees that thrive in the heat and alkaline soils of the low desert. Once established, they’re drought-tolerant and produce abundantly with minimal care.

Varieties of mulberries that grow well in Arizona:

• Pakistan Mulberry – Large, sweet, seedless fruit with a long harvest season.
• Black Mulberry – Smaller tree with rich, flavorful fruit.
• White Mulberry (Morus alba) – Less popular for fruit, but very heat-hardy.
• Persian and Shangri-La are also good options.

Best time to plant mulberries in Arizona:
Fall or spring, once the risk of frost has passed or before summer heat sets in.

Months to harvest:
April to June, depending on the variety and weather conditions.

Tips for growing mulberries in Arizona:

• Hardy in USDA Zones 7–10; well suited for the low desert.
• Full sun is best for maximum fruit production.
• Mulberries rarely need fertilizing once established—too much nitrogen can reduce fruiting.
• Prune in late winter to shape and control size; they can grow large quickly.
• Birds love the fruit—consider netting or only planting where fallen fruit won’t be an issue.
• Most varieties are self-fruitful (no second tree needed for pollination).

Olive

How to Grow Olives in Arizona:

Olives thrive in the low desert’s dry heat and alkaline soil. These evergreen trees are ornamental and drought-tolerant, producing fruit that must be cured before eating.

Varieties that grow well in Arizona:

• Arbequina, Arbosana, Koroneiki, and Mission are popular choices
• Choose self-fruitful or pair compatible varieties for best yields

Best time to plant:
Fall or early spring

Months to harvest:
September to November, depending on variety

Tips:

• Fruit drop can stain pavement—plant carefully.
• Full sun, excellent drainage, and minimal water once established.
• Prune to maintain size and improve airflow.

Passionfruit

How to Grow Passionfruit in Arizona:

This tropical vine produces fragrant flowers and sweet-tart fruit. It grows vigorously in warm weather and benefits from afternoon shade and consistent moisture.

Edible fruit varieties that grow well in Arizona:

• Frederick and other purple passionfruit (Passiflora edulis) are best suited

Best time to plant:
Spring, after the danger of frost

Months to harvest:
Late summer into fall, often beginning the second year

Tips:

• Pollination may improve with multiple vines.
• Needs a strong trellis or fence to climb.
• Protect from frost and scorching sun while young.

Read this article for more information about how to grow passion flower vine.

Peach

How to Grow Peach Trees in Arizona:

Peaches grow very well in Arizona when low-chill varieties are selected. Prune annually and thin fruit to prevent branch breakage and improve size and flavor.

Varieties of peach trees that grow well in Arizona:

• Bonanza Miniature – freestone, self-fruitful (250 hours or less)
• August Pride – freestone, self-fruitful (300 hours or less)
• Babcock – freestone, self-fruitful (250-300 hours)
• Desert Gold – clingstone, self-fruitful (250 hours)
• Desert Red – clingstone, self-fruitful (275 hours)
• Earligrande – semi-freestone, self-fruitful (275 hours)
• Eva’s Pride – freestone, self-fruitful (100-200 hours)
• Florida Prince – semi-freestone, self-fruitful (150 hours)
• Floridagrande – semi-freestone (less than 100 hours)
• May Pride – freestone, self-fruitful (175-200 hours)
• Mid-Pride – freestone, self-fruitful (250 hours)
• Tropic Beauty – freestone, self-fruitful (100-200 hours)
• Tropic Snow – freestone, self-fruitful (175-200 hours)
• Vallegrande – semi-freestone, self-fruitful (250 hours)
• Tropic Sweet – freestone, self-fruitful (100-200 hours)

The best time to plant peach trees in Arizona: Fall or spring when planted from container plants. Bare-root trees should be planted in January or early February.

Harvest months: April through August, depending on the variety.

Tips for growing peach trees in Arizona:

• Prune before bud break in January. 
• Fertilize after the blossoms finish.
• Thin peaches to 4-6 inches apart as soon as possible after fruit set.

Read this article for more information about how to grow peaches.

Pear

How to Grow Pears in Arizona:

Certain varieties of pear do well in the low desert with proper chill hours. Like apples, they benefit from regular pruning and thinning to improve fruit quality.

Varieties of pears that grow well in Arizona:

• Floridahome – partly self-fruitful (400 hours)
• Keiffer – self-fruitful; best for cooking (350 hours)

Best time to plant pear trees in Arizona: Fall or spring; when planted from container plants. Bare root trees should be planted in January or early February.

Months to harvest: April – August

Tips for growing pear trees in Arizona: 

• Fertilize and prune before bud break.
• Thin pears to at least 4 inches apart as soon as possible after fruit set.
• Fertilize monthly during growing season.

Persimmon

How to Grow Persimmons in Arizona:

Persimmons are beautiful, low-maintenance trees that ripen in the fall. Look for non-astringent varieties like ‘Fuyu’ for sweet, crisp fruit right off the tree.

Varieties of persimmon that grow well in Arizona:

• Fuyu – self-fruitful (200 hours)
• Giant Fuyu – self-fruitful (200 hours)
• Izu – smaller tree; self-fruitful (100 hours)

Best time to plant in Arizona: Fall or spring; when planted from container plants. Bare root trees should be planted in January or early February. Persimmon can be more difficult to grow from bare root. 

Months to harvest: Late fall 

Tips for growing in Arizona: 

• Trees may take 7 years to bear fruit.
• Harvest fruit while firm; will soften indoors.
• Prune little, if at all.
• Does not need fertilizer.
• Thin heavy crops.
• Tolerates temperatures to 10°F.

Arizona Fruit Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Fruit

Pineapple Guava

How to Grow Pineapple Guavas in Arizona:

Pineapple guava is a frost-tolerant evergreen shrub that produces fragrant flowers and sweet, tropical-flavored fruit. It benefits from afternoon shade in hotter areas.

Varieties of pineapple guava that grow well in Arizona:

• Apollo – large fruit; self-fruitful (200–300 hours)
• Coolidge – reliable producer; self-fruitful (100–200 hours)
• Nazemetz – compact; self-fruitful (200–300 hours)
• Pineapple Gem – small tree; self-fruitful (200 hours)

Best time to plant in Arizona: Spring and fall

Months to harvest: Between September and January, depending on variety.

Tips for growing in Arizona: 

• Large shrub or small tree, up to 15 feet tall.
• Grows well in containers.
• Drought tolerant.
• Evergreen shrub.
• Prune only lightly as needed after fruiting.

Plum

How to Grow Plums in Arizona:

Plums need careful variety selection and pruning to perform well in the low desert. Many Japanese types do best, and some need a pollinator for good fruit set.

Varieties of plums that grow well in Arizona:

• Beauty – self-fruitful (250 hours)
• Gulf Gold – self-fruitful (250 hours)
• Gulf Ruby – self-fruitful (250 hours)
• Methley – self-fruitful (250 hours)
• Santa Rosa – self-fruitful (300 hours)

Best time to plant plum trees in Arizona: Fall or spring; when planted from container plants. Bare root trees should be planted in January or early February.

Months to harvest: May – June

Tips for growing plum trees in Arizona: 

• Fertilize and prune before bud break in January.
• Fertilize monthly during growing season.
• Thin plums to at least 2 inches apart as soon as possible after fruit set.
• Water trees well until established.

Pomegranate

How to Grow Pomegranates in Arizona:

Pomegranates are desert superstars—beautiful, drought-tolerant, and productive. Their tart-sweet fruit ripens in late summer to early fall.

Varieties of pomegranates that grow well in Arizona: 

• Balegal – large fruits with pale pink skin; sweet flavored flesh; hardy to zone 7.
• Crab – medium to large fruit with bronze skin; tart but rich flavor; productive.
• Early Wonderful – large fruits with thin red skin; tart flavor; very productive.
• Granada – medium fruit with crimson skin; semi-sweet; matures early; hardy to zone 7.
• Sweet – medium fruit with pink skin; green skin with red flush; very sweet; productive; bears at a young age.
• Utah Sweet – medium-sized fruit with pink skin; sweet flavor and soft seeds; pink flowers.
• Wonderful – large fruits with red skin; tangy, flavorful, soft seeds; large red flowers; productive. This variety grows well in the low desert of Arizona. 

Best time to plant pomegranate trees in Arizona: Spring and fall

Months to harvest: October – December

Tips for growing pomegranates in Arizona: 

• Give pomegranates plenty of sun.
• Feed pomegranates with a layer of compost in the spring.
• Prune lightly throughout the year as needed.

Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates. 

Strawberry

How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona:

Strawberries are best grown as a cool-season crop in Arizona. Plant in fall for spring harvests and provide afternoon shade as temperatures rise.

Varieties of strawberries that grow well in Arizona:

• Camarosa – firm, flavorful; early producer; heat-tolerant
• Chandler – juicy, sweet; high yields; best in mild winters
• Sequoia – rich flavor; good for home gardens; everbearing in warm climates
• Tioga – large fruit; productive; good for fresh eating and freezing

Best time to plant strawberry transplants in Arizona: September 15 – January

Months to harvest: April – June 

Tips for growing strawberries in Arizona: 

• You may need to plant new plants each year. Arizona summers are very hard on strawberry plants.
• Strawberries in Arizona need afternoon shade.

Read this article for more information about how to grow strawberries. 

Additional Planting Guides for the Low Desert of Arizona

Explore these specialized planting guides, each created to help you grow successfully in Arizona’s unique climate:

• Vegetable Planting Guide – Visual planting advice for growing vegetables in the low desert.
• Herb Planting Guide – Learn the best times to plant, grow, and harvest a wide variety of culinary and medicinal herbs.
• Flower Planting Guide – Planting windows and tips for cut flowers, pollinators, and wildflowers that thrive in desert gardens.
• Vine Planting Guide – Guidance on when and how to plant climbing vegetables, flowering vines, and heat-tolerant climbers.

Was this guide helpful? Share it with a friend or fellow Arizona gardener! Helping more people grow delicious fruit in the low desert makes all the effort worth it.

The post Arizona Fruit Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Fruit appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If so, you’re not alone—and it’s something you can fix. Thinning your fruit trees is one of the easiest ways to ensure that your tree isn’t just ornamental but also produces big, beautiful, and tasty fruit. Along with regular pruning, thinning can make a night-and-day difference in your harvest quality!

Article Outline:

• Why thin fruit trees?
• Thinning and Young Trees
• Some Trees Thin Themselves
• Types of Fruit Trees That Generally Require Manual Thinning
• When to Thin?
• How Much Fruit Should You Remove?
• Tree-Specific Guidelines
• FAQ: Common Questions About Thinning
• A Bit of Work, A Big Reward

Why thin fruit trees?

Most fruit trees naturally set more fruit than they can fully support. While this might sound great if you love fruit, too many fruits leads to:

1. Small, low-quality fruits – Each piece of fruit competes for the tree’s stored energy (carbohydrates). When there isn’t enough energy to go around, everything stays small and disappointing.
2. Disease spread – Fruits touching one another reduce air circulation and can spread diseases (like brown rot) more easily.
3. Strain on the tree – Excess fruit can weigh down and break branches. It also depletes the tree’s energy reserves, leaving it more vulnerable to pests, disease, and even sunburn.

By thinning, you help the tree focus its energy on fewer fruits, which leads to better size, flavor, and overall health.

Thinning and Young Trees

For newly planted trees, it’s usually best to remove most (if not all) fruit for the first two or three years. Here’s why:

• Energy goes into establishing roots and structure – Instead of putting resources into fruit, your young tree builds a strong framework and root system.
• Prevent limb breakage – Heavy fruit on young branches can cause damage that sets the tree back for future seasons.

It can feel counterintuitive to remove all those baby fruits, but trust me—your patience will pay off in the long run!

Not sure how to shape your fruit tree for success? My How to Prune Fruit Trees article walks you through the basics to boost fruit size and tree health.

Tip: Labeling your trees helps you remember when each was planted, so you’ll know how old it is and when it’s time to start letting it bear fruit. I personally like to use these labels from Amazon (here’s an article on labeling if you’re interested), but any system that works for you is good.

Some Trees Thin Themselves

Certain trees have a natural “self-thinning” mechanism, where unpollinated blossoms or diseased fruits drop early—this is most noticeable in late spring. For citrus, cherries, figs, pomegranates, persimmons, and many nut trees, this natural drop is often all the thinning they need.

Still, you’ll want to keep an eye on the branches. Even if a tree mostly thins itself, a cluster of fruits on a slender branch might need your help so the branch doesn’t snap or bend too much.

Looking for a continuous harvest all year long? Don’t miss my What to Plant for a Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvest guide for a steady supply of fresh fruit in every season.

Types of Fruit Trees That Generally Require Manual Thinning

• Stone Fruits – Peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, etc.
• Pome Fruits – Apples and most pears.

These trees typically produce loads of blossoms, resulting in heavy fruit sets. They benefit from a little extra attention to reduce overcrowding and promote bigger, tastier fruits.

Growing fruit in the desert? Explore my Arizona Fruit Planting Guide for the best fruit trees that thrive in hot, dry climates.

When to Thin?

Ideally, thin within a month after full bloom (sometimes referred to as “post-bloom thinning”). By thinning early, you help the remaining fruits reach a larger size because they’ll have more time to soak up nutrients.

If you wait too long—say until fruits are bigger than an inch in diameter—you might not see as much of a jump in final fruit size. So, aim for that “pea size” or “marble size” stage when the fruits are no larger than an inch in diameter.

Wondering how and when to feed your trees? After pruning, it’s important to support new growth with proper nutrition. Discover the right nutrients and timing to keep your orchard thriving in my articles on fertilizing fruit trees and fertilizing citrus trees.

How Much Fruit Should You Remove?

1. Remove all fused or double fruits – They tend to be misshapen and less flavorful, and they can harbor pests or disease.
2. Remove damaged or disfigured fruits – If insects or weather have already taken a toll, thin them out.
3. General spacing guidelines – You want enough room for each fruit to develop without rubbing against neighbors. In many cases, leaving 4–6 inches between peaches or plums is a good start.
4. Apple clusters – For apples, aim to leave 1–2 apples per cluster, snipping off the extras. You’ll be amazed how much bigger those remaining apples grow!

Tree-Specific Guidelines

Although every orchardist does things a bit differently, here are a few guidelines that tend to work well:

Peaches and Nectarines

• Thin to about 6–8 inches apart along the branch.
• Watch for doubles and odd shapes (particularly common in nectarines).

Want the sweetest, juiciest peaches? Check out my How to Grow Peach Trees guide for everything from choosing varieties to optimal watering and care.

Plums

• Thin to 4–6 inches apart.
• European plums tend to need less thinning than Japanese plums, but give them a once-over if they’re loaded.

Apricots

• Thin to 2–4 inches apart.
• They usually set fruit abundantly; removing the extras early can avoid limb damage.

Apples

• Thin to 1–2 apples per cluster.
• Typically space them 6–8 inches apart if they’re not in clusters.

Pears

• Asian pears in particular can overset, so thin them similarly to apples—about 1 pear every 6 inches or so, depending on the variety.
• European pears often set fewer fruit and might require less thinning, but remove doubles and damaged fruits.

FAQ: Common Questions About Thinning

1. What if I miss the ideal thinning window?
Don’t worry—it’s still better to thin late than not at all. Even if the fruits have grown beyond that “pea size,” removing some will still help the remaining fruits get bigger and healthier, though the effect might not be as dramatic as earlier thinning.

2. Will thinning damage my tree or reduce my total harvest too much?
Not at all—thinning actually helps preserve the tree’s energy for fewer, higher-quality fruits. While it may look like you’re losing potential fruit in the short term, you’ll usually end up with a better overall harvest (and your tree will stay healthier in the long run).

3. Do I need special tools to thin fruit trees?
For the most part, simple hand pruners or even careful hand-snipping is enough. With smaller fruit (like peaches), you can often just pinch off the fruit. For clusters on apples and pears, small pruning shears or scissors work great.

4. What should I do with the fruit I remove?
Any removed fruit is typically too small to eat, so you can compost it or toss it. If you do compost it, make sure the fruit isn’t diseased or insect-infested. If it’s in good shape, compost away!

5. Can I skip thinning if I already prune my tree?
Pruning removes branches and helps shape the tree, but it’s usually not enough to eliminate overcrowded fruit. Thinning focuses on the fruits themselves, making sure the tree’s resources are channeled into fewer, better fruits.

6. How do I know which fruits are best to keep?
Look for the best-shaped, healthiest, and ideally well-spaced fruits on each branch. Remove any that show damage, disease, or deformities. If you see fruits rubbing together, take at least one out to maintain airflow.

7. Do all trees need thinning every year?
Not necessarily. Some trees (like citrus or persimmons) may self-thin enough. Others might have alternate-bearing patterns—one heavy crop year followed by a lighter one. Keep an eye on your tree each year and thin as needed.

A Bit of Work, A Big Reward

Yes, thinning can feel like a chore—especially when your tree is dripping with baby fruits that look like they might be delicious. But it’s 100% worth it. By taking a little time early in the season, you’ll prevent breakage, reduce disease pressure, and come harvest time, you’ll be rewarded with larger, sweeter, more flavorful fruit.

And remember, the goal isn’t to have your tree dripping with tiny fruits that no one wants to eat. Instead, a moderate amount of big, healthy fruit is far more satisfying…and your taste buds will thank you!

So, go out there, take a good look at those budding branches, and start thinning. Before you know it, you’ll have the kind of harvest you’ve always dreamed of. Happy thinning, and enjoy the delicious rewards!

If this post about how and when to thin fruit trees was helpful, please share it.

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The information in this blog post about citrus growing mistakes is for citrus planted in the ground in warm climates that can grow citrus outdoors year round. If you live in a cooler climate, read this article about how to grow citrus in containers.

Article Index:

1. Planting a Tree Without Sampling the Fruit
2. Planting Citrus at the Wrong Time
3. Choosing a Tree That’s Too Large for the Space
4. Planting the Citrus Tree Too Deeply
5. Amending the Planting Hole with Compost or Rich Soil
6. Watering Incorrectly
7. Skirting and Over-Pruning Citrus Trees
8. Not Fertilizing Citrus Trees
9. Exposing Citrus Bark to Direct Sunlight
10. Neglecting to Harvest Fruit

Mistake #1: Planting a Tree Without Sampling the Fruit

With so many citrus varieties available, choosing one you’ll truly enjoy is important. Whenever possible, sample the fruit—this is a major advantage of buying from local growers, who often have mature trees you can taste from. Ask yourself questions like: Does the fruit have seeds? Do I like the flavor and sweetness level? Because citrus trees are long-lived and can produce hundreds of pounds of fruit, pick a variety you’ll love for years to come.

Need help to choose? This article talks about 30 different varieties of citrus. Some oranges are best for juicing, and others are best eaten fresh. Still can’t decide? This article may help you decide which type of citrus tree to plant.  

Mistake #2: Planting Citrus at the Wrong Time

Citrus trees are sensitive to frost, so wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting. In hot climates—such as the low desert of Arizona—avoid waiting too long in the spring; planting earlier gives roots time to establish before extreme summer heat arrives. Citrus roots grow and develop quickly in spring, making this an ideal planting season.

In the low desert, do not plant citrus from June through mid-September, as the intense heat hinders a young tree’s ability to establish. A second planting window in the fall is possible, but newly planted citrus will be more vulnerable to frost. If cold weather threatens, protect young trees with frost coverings. Learn more about protecting citrus from frost in this guide.

Finally, be an informed buyer. Even if local retailers carry citrus year-round, planting outside the recommended window can stunt growth and reduce the tree’s long-term health.

Mistake #3: Choosing a Tree That’s Too Large for the Space

When choosing a citrus tree, picking one that will fit your available space at maturity is crucial. Over-planting can lead to crowded trees with restricted sunlight and poor airflow, which invite pests and diseases.

• Account for Mature Size
  Ensure there’s enough distance from buildings, fences, and property lines. While young citrus trees may seem small, they can grow much larger than you might expect.
• Consider Dwarf Varieties
  Dwarf citrus trees produce fruit that’s just as large and flavorful as standard trees but yield about half as much. They’re often the best choice for home growers with limited space.
  • Dwarf varieties typically reach 10–12 ft (3–3.7 m) tall and 9–11 ft (2.7–3.4 m) wide.
• Semi-Dwarf Trees
  A good option if you want more fruit than a dwarf tree provides yet have less space than a standard tree requires.
  • Semi-dwarfs usually grow 12–15 ft (3.7–4.6 m) tall and 12–15 ft (3.7–4.6 m) wide.
• Standard-Size Trees
  Standard varieties can become quite large and need ample room to thrive.
  • Expect heights of 20–25 ft (6–7.6 m) and widths of 16–18 ft (4.9–5.5 m), depending on the variety.

Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeply

One of the most common pitfalls when growing citrus is planting the tree too deeply. Citrus trees are typically grafted onto a specific rootstock, and the graft union (where the rootstock meets the scion) must remain above the soil line. Burying the graft union can lead to rot, disease, and the proliferation of rootstock suckers—issues that ultimately compromise the health and productivity of your tree. To avoid these problems:

Prevent Lifetime Issues: Planting too deeply can result in a lifetime of problems such as disease, pest infestations, reduced fruit production, and eventually, tree death.

Identify the Graft: Examine the trunk to locate the graft, which should remain visible above the soil line.

Check Before Purchasing: Dig gently around the soil in a nursery pot to ensure the root ball is near the surface and hasn’t been “buried” in extra soil.

Plant at the Right Depth: Position the root ball so it’s level with or slightly above the surrounding ground, rather than matching the pot’s soil level.

Dig a Proper Hole: Make the hole as deep as the root ball (no deeper) but 3–5 times wider.

Mistake #5: Amending the Planting Hole with Compost or Rich Soil

When planting a citrus tree, it’s best to backfill the hole with the same native soil you removed. Adding compost or other nutrient-rich material directly into the hole can create a “comfort zone” where roots have everything they need in one small area, resulting in a smaller root system and a weaker tree overall.

By using native soil, you encourage the roots to spread outward in search of nutrients, which helps build a stronger, more extensive root system. If you want to improve soil health, apply compost or worm castings on top of the soil around the planting area. This way, nutrients are distributed more evenly, promoting root growth beyond the immediate planting hole. Learn more about the benefits of worm castings in this guide.

Mistake #6: Watering Incorrectly

Proper watering is crucial for maintaining healthy citrus trees, yet many common citrus problems stem from insufficient or improper watering. Here’s how to ensure your trees receive the moisture they need:

1. Recognize Water Stress
   • Signs of Underwatering: Drooping or inward-curling leaves.
   • Signs of Sufficient Water: Leaves lie flat or curl slightly downward.
2. Adjust for Tree Age
   • Young Trees: Require more frequent watering due to shallower root systems.
   • Established Trees: Benefit from slow, deep, and infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow deeper in search of moisture.
3. Water to the Right Depth
   • Depth Target: Aim to water to a depth of at least 18–24 inches for younger trees and up to 3 feet for mature trees.
   • Soil Probe: Use a probe to check how far water penetrates; it will pass through moist soil and stop when hitting dry soil. Get a soil probe here.
4. Don’t Overwater
   • Root Health: Citrus roots need air as well as water. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry before watering again.
   • Root Rot Risk: Consistently saturated soil leads to root rot.

For detailed guidelines on watering intervals, consult my monthly blog posts or the University of Arizona Extension Office’s publication, Irrigating Citrus Trees. Looking for more citrus-growing tips? Check out this article for additional insights on how to grow citrus.

Mistake #7: Skirting and over-pruning citrus trees

Unlike many other fruit trees, citrus typically doesn’t require extensive pruning beyond removing suckers and water sprouts. However, if you choose to prune, here are a few key guidelines to help you do it correctly.

• Manage suckers and water sprouts
  Remove any shoots emerging below the graft union (suckers) as well as tall, fast-growing vertical shoots (water sprouts), which divert energy away from the main canopy. Learn more about how to identify citrus suckers in this guide.
• Remove dead or crossing branches
  Eliminate branches that rub against each other or show no signs of life; this promotes better airflow and prevents further damage.
• Avoid pruning in summer
  Summer pruning exposes the tree’s bark to intense sunlight, increasing the risk of sunburn and trunk damage.
• Limit cuts to preserve fruit
  Pruning healthy new growth reduces the tree’s fruit-bearing potential. Only prune when necessary.
• Beware of “skirting”
  Unlike deciduous fruit trees, citrus generally doesn’t need heavy pruning. Cutting off all lower limbs—known as “skirting”—is a common mistake. Those lower limbs help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature.

For more information on pruning fruit trees, check out this guide.

Mistake #8: Not fertilizing citrus trees

Citrus are heavy feeders and need sufficient soil nutrients year-round. Leaf discoloration and pale citrus leaves are often caused by nutrient deficiencies – usually iron, magnesium, and nitrogen. 

Once your citrus tree is planted, knowing how to fertilize citrus trees is key to helping it grow strong and start producing fruit.

Use an organic fertilizer developed for citrus trees and apply it according to package directions throughout the year. Water well before and after applying fertilizer. In the low desert of Arizona, our fertilizer application dates are typically Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day. 

You can also use the fruit tree feeding method of compost and worm castings described in this guide.

Mistake #9: Exposing Citrus Bark to Direct Sunlight

Citrus bark is highly susceptible to sunburn, which can crack and damage the trunk, inviting pests and disease. To avoid this, maintain a proper canopy—don’t “skirt” trees too high (see Mistake #7)—and protect any exposed bark from harsh sunlight. You can use a breathable, stretchable tree wrap or apply a water-based paint formulated for citrus to create a protective barrier and prevent sunscald. Learn how to protect citrus bark and prevent sunburned citrus bark in this guide.

Mistake #10: Neglecting to Harvest Fruit

Leaving overripe citrus on the tree attracts insects, birds, and rodents. Citrus harvests typically begin in late fall and can extend into spring, so be sure to sample the fruit at the start of the harvest window to check for ripeness. Citrus often stays ripe on the tree for several weeks and sometimes months—take advantage of this by enjoying fresh fruit or juicing any surplus. If you have an abundance, try these tips for juicing citrus.

Once the fruit starts to soften and drop, harvest everything left on the tree and clean up any fallen fruit to discourage pests and rodents. Correcting this common oversight is easy, and your citrus trees will be healthier and more productive.

If this post about citrus growing mistakes was helpful, please share it.

The post Citrus Growing Mistakes: How to Avoid Them appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The varieties of citrus I want to grow outnumber the spots I have available for planting. Luckily, citrus grows very well in containers. Through the years, I’ve learned what works and what doesn’t. Learn how to grow citrus in containers with these tips, and in no time, you will be a container citrus growing pro!

Article Index:

Why grow citrus in containers?

1. Choose the best container for planting citrus
2. Plant citrus at the right time
3. Select citrus varieties that grow well in containers
4. Use the correct type of soil
5. Choose the best location
6. Plant your citrus tree correctly
7. Citrus in containers will need more frequent watering
8. Feed your citrus regularly
9. Prune container-grown citrus as needed
10. Protect citrus from freezing temperatures

Why grow citrus in containers?

Growing citrus in containers has plenty of advantages.

• Limited Space: Containers let you experiment with multiple citrus varieties even if you don’t have much room.
• Unfavorable Weather: Move potted citrus trees indoors or to a protected area if the climate is too cold or unpredictable.
• Poor Soil and Drainage: Control soil quality and drainage by growing citrus in containers, solving any ground-related issues.
• Root Encroachment: Keep citrus roots out of nearby raised beds or garden plots, so all plants have the space they need to thrive.

1.  Choose the best container for planting citrus

The container should be twice as large as the citrus nursery pot to give the roots room to grow. A half whiskey barrel is my favorite size for growing citrus. Large ceramic or terra cotta pots also work well. Look for a container at least 2 feet wide (61 cm) and 2 feet (61 cm) deep. It should hold at least 20 gallons (about 2 cubic feet of soil) or more. Get more information about the best sizes for containers in this guide.

Place on a plant dolly before filling with soil in cold climates so the container can be moved to a sheltered location during the coldest months of the year.

The pot should have several drain holes around its circumference. Drill additional holes if necessary. Having the pot off the ground on pot feet rather than sitting in a tray (standing water can breed mosquitoes).

2. Plant citrus at the right time

The best time to plant citrus trees in containers is in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. In mild winter areas, there is a second planting window for citrus in the fall. If you plant in the fall, be aware that newly planted citrus is more susceptible to frost and needs frost protection. 

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

3. Select citrus varieties that grow well in containers

Some citrus is better suited to containers than others. Here is what to look for:

• Look for healthy trees with shiny leaves. 
• Buy citrus trees grafted onto dwarf rootstock. Dwarf trees produce the same size and quality of fruit but yield 50-60 percent less fruit. 
• Look at the roots and make sure they do not circle the nursery container. If they do, the citrus tree may be root bound and will not grow well.
• Smaller trees are easier to plant and suffer less from transplant shock problems. 

Larger types of citrus trees (like lemons and grapefruit) may outgrow the container quickly and need to be repotted or have roots trimmed back. 

Smaller types of citrus that do well in containers include: Improved Meyer lemon, Bearss lime, Mandarins, Australian Finger Lime, Calamondin, and Kumquat.

This blog post shares information about 30 different types of citrus and may be helpful as you determine which type of citrus to plant in your container. Get more help deciding which citrus to plant in this guide.

4. Use the correct type of soil for your container citrus tree

The best soil for container-grown citrus is a potting mix with compost, coconut coir, peat moss, and vermiculite or perlite. Learn more about this soil combination here.

The potting soil should be light and fluffy and drain well. Soil that is all organic matter (compost) will decompose too quickly and become compacted. Garden soil and/or native soil is too heavy for containers and will not give the roots the air they need.

5. Choose the Best Location for Container-Grown Citrus

• Prioritize Sunlight: Citrus trees need at least 8 hours of sunlight daily.
• Morning Sun, Afternoon Shade: A spot with morning sun and some late afternoon shade is ideal in most regions.
• Reflective Heat: If you live in a cooler climate, placing your container near a sunny wall that reflects heat can boost growing conditions.
• Hot Climates: In very warm areas (like the low desert of Arizona), provide natural afternoon shade to reduce stress on container-grown plants. Because containers can overheat more quickly than ground soil, keeping citrus slightly shaded during the hottest parts of the day is especially important.

6. Plant your citrus tree correctly

Planting citrus correctly from the start is crucial for a healthy, productive tree. Follow the instructions below to ensure your citrus is set up for long-term success.

Fill the container halfway with soil; set the tree in place.

Loosen compacted roots lightly but keep root ball intact.

If you are going to add an olla (oya) to your garden, add it to your container before you fill it with soil.

Fill the container with soil to the same level of the nursery pot. Do not bury the root crown or graft (the small bump where the fruiting type was grafted to the rootstock, typically a few inches above the root ball). 

Mulch well, but push back soil and mulch away from the trunk.

7. Citrus in containers will need more frequent watering

Check your containers frequently; citrus in containers dry out more quickly than citrus in the ground. Dip your finger into the soil an inch or so, and if it feels dry, it’s time to water. Use a moisture meter to give you a more exact idea of how wet the roots are.

Pay attention to your citrus tree. Your plants will tell you if their water needs aren’t being met. Leaves that are wilted and then perk up after watering are a sign of roots that have been allowed to dry out too much. Yellow, curled leaves that don’t perk up after watering may mean they are getting too much water. Citrus roots like moist but not soggy conditions.

How often you water will be influenced by the weather. During hot dry weather, water more often. During cooler weather, you will need to water much less.

Each time you water, water thoroughly making sure the water is being absorbed and not just draining out the hole in the bottom. If this happens to your soil, it might be hydrophobic. To remedy this, gently dig in the soil with a garden spade; don’t turn the soil over, just loosen it. Next, sprinkle the surface lightly with water. After several sprayings, the soil should begin to break up and loosen, allowing more water to be absorbed. Adding a 1″–2″ layer of mulch can help prevent this. 

Hydrophobic soil is soil that repels water instead of absorbing it. When this happens, water will bead up and run off the surface rather than soaking in, causing plants to struggle with water uptake.

Here in the low desert, I add ollas (oyas) to all of my container-grown plants, including citrus. Water the container thoroughly, and fill the olla each time you water. This allows you to go a little longer between watering than containers without ollas. During the warmest months of the year in hot climates, you may still have to water every day, but the plant roots have access to more water. Learn more about how to water containers in this guide.

8. Feed your citrus regularly

Because frequent watering means nutrients are washed away and roots can’t go looking in the ground for additional nutrients, it’s also a good idea to feed your citrus regularly. 

Once your citrus tree is planted, knowing how to fertilize citrus trees is key to helping it grow strong and start producing fruit.

Use an organic fertilizer formulated for citrus. Typically for containers, fertilize more often but use less fertilizer (follow label instructions for amounts). Fertilize citrus in containers each month during the growing season. Get more basic care tips for citrus in this guide.

9. Prune container-grown citrus as needed

The best time to prune citrus is in the spring, after the danger of frost has passed and before new growth appears. Use water-based latex paint or tree wrap to cover any exposed bark. 

Exposed bark can lead to serious damage in hot climates—learn how to protect citrus bark and prevent sunburned citrus bark in this guide.

When pruning citrus in containers, prune for 3 things: 

• Prune suckers below the graft union; they sap energy from the tree and do not produce fruit. Learn more about how to identify citrus suckers in this guide.
• Prune dead branches. 
• Citrus can also be pruned to keep the citrus a desired size and/or shape. Avoid pruning lower branches.

10. Protect citrus from freezing temperatures

All citrus is frost-tender and needs to be brought indoors or covered with frost cloth when nighttime temperatures go below 35°F (1°C). For more information about protecting citrus during freezing temperatures read this guide.

If you move citrus indoors, provide additional grow lights for the tree. Move the container back outside after the danger of frost has passed in the spring. Dwarf Improved Meyer Lemon, Kumquat, and Calamondin are all more cold-hardy types that do well in containers.

Get more tips for avoiding common citrus mistakes in this guide.

Find more crops, including citrus, that grow well in containers in this guide.

If you enjoyed this post about how to grow citrus in containers, please share it.

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Use the principles in this post to guide you. If you can work alongside an experienced friend or neighbor as they prune their fruit trees, that’s even better—it’s a great way to gain confidence and learn by doing. Whether your tree is young or a mature producer, smart pruning makes all the difference, giving you healthier trees, easier harvests, and abundant, large, delicious fruit.

Article Index

• When to Prune Fruit Trees
• Essential Tools for Pruning
• Pruning Basics: Understanding the Terms
• How to Prune Young Deciduous Fruit Trees (Years 1–3)
• Pruning Established or Mature Deciduous Fruit Trees
• Final Tips
  

When to Prune Fruit Trees

Timing is everything when it comes to pruning fruit trees. For deciduous trees like peaches, plums, and apples, the best time to prune is during the dormant season in winter. This is when the tree’s growth slows down, making it easier to see the structure and make thoughtful cuts without causing unnecessary stress. In most regions, pruning is done after the leaves have fallen and before the first buds begin to swell in spring. This encourages healthy new growth and sets the stage for a productive season.

Pruning may need to happen sooner in the low desert, where winters are mild and the dormant period can be short. Aim to prune deciduous trees before the first buds break, even if some leaves haven’t fallen yet. This is often in January or at the latest, in February. Waiting too long can interfere with spring growth and reduce fruit production.

Pruning can also be done in the summer to help control the size of deciduous fruit trees or remove unwanted water sprouts and suckers. Learn more about how to identify and deal with suckers in this guide.

For citrus trees—such as oranges, lemons, and grapefruits—pruning is best done after the last frost in late winter or early spring. Because citrus trees don’t go fully dormant, focus on removing dead or damaged branches and gently shaping the tree as it prepares for active growth. Citrus trees don’t require pruning like deciduous fruit trees do. Read this guide to learn more about how to grow citrus.

Essential Tools

Using the right tools makes pruning easier, safer, and more effective. Here’s what you may need:

• Hand Pruners: Perfect for small branches and precise cuts. Look for bypass pruners for a clean, close cut. Do not use anvil pruners on live wood. Recommended: Felco Hand Pruners
• Loppers: These long-handled pruners are ideal for thicker branches (up to 1–2 inches in diameter) and hard-to-reach areas. Recommended: Corona Bypass Lopers
• Pruning Saw: Use a pruning saw for large branches that are too thick for loppers. Choose one with a sharp, curved blade for smooth cutting. Recommended: Corona Folding Saw
• Pole Pruners: Pole pruners let you reach higher branches without climbing. Ensure the pole is sturdy and adjustable. Recommended: Doca Pole Saw
• Tool Maintenance Supplies: Keep tools sharp and clean to make cuts easier and reduce the risk of spreading disease. A 10% bleach solution or rubbing alcohol is helpful for disinfecting blades between cuts. Recommended: Corona Blade Sharpener

Pruning Basics: Understanding the Terms

Before you start pruning, it’s helpful to understand a few key terms and techniques.

Where to Cut: The Branch Collar

The branch collar is the slightly swollen area at the branch’s base where it connects to the trunk or a larger limb. This is the tree’s natural healing zone, so always make your cuts just outside the branch collar. Cutting too close to the trunk can damage the tree, while leaving a stub can slow healing and invite pests or diseases.

Thinning Cuts

Thinning cuts remove an entire branch back to its point of origin (either the trunk or another branch). These cuts are used to:

• Improve airflow and light penetration in the canopy.
• Remove crossing, weak, or overcrowded branches.
• Maintain the tree’s overall shape and prevent overgrowth.

Thinning cuts can be used during dormant or summer pruning. This type of cut is less stimulating and won’t encourage excessive regrowth, making it ideal for structural pruning.

Heading Cuts

Heading cuts shorten a branch or shoot to a specific point, encouraging new growth just below the cut. This type of pruning:

• Stimulates bushier growth and encourages branching.
• Is used at planting time to create leaf sprouts that become scaffold branches.
• Is used to manage the size and shape of the tree.
• Promotes fruiting on new wood (important for trees like peaches that bear fruit on last year’s growth).

Heading cuts are most effective when used sparingly during the dormant season. Overuse can lead to excessive, weak growth that requires additional thinning later.

When to Use Each Type of Cut

• Dormant Season (Winter): Focus on thinning cuts to remove dead, diseased, or poorly placed branches. Use heading cuts to shape young trees and encourage branching.
• After the Last Frost (Citrus Trees): Use thinning cuts to clean up dead or damaged wood. Apply heading cuts only if needed for shaping.
• Summer (Light Pruning): Remove water sprouts, suckers, or overly vigorous shoots with thinning cuts. Heading cuts can be used to control size and shape but should be minimal to avoid stressing the tree.

How to Prune Young Deciduous Fruit Trees (Years 1–3)

Pruning newly planted fruit trees is essential for setting a strong framework and balancing root and shoot growth. It ensures the tree develops well-spaced, sturdy branches capable of supporting fruit in the future. Early pruning also removes weak or poorly positioned branches and encourages healthy new growth, making it easier to shape the tree for long-term success. This small step lays the foundation for a productive, healthy tree.

Right After Planting

• Cut the tree down by ⅔ to 18-24 inches (45-60 cm)(about knee height). Make a clean cut at a 45° angle just above a bud. Ensure there are several buds below the cut and above the graft (where the tree is grafted onto the rootstock).
• If your sapling already has a few branches, select three or four well-spaced (4–6 inches apart on the trunk) and form angles greater than 45° with the trunk. Remove all others.

Open-Center (Vase) Shape

This shape removes the central leader, leaving 3–5 main branches fanned out to create an open center. It allows sunlight and airflow to reach the entire canopy, which helps prevent disease and promotes fruit ripening—commonly used for peaches, plums, apricots, and nectarines.

• Imagine the finished shape as a vase: open in the center, allowing light and airflow. This helps prevent disease and produces higher-quality fruit.
• Trim away any branches pointing inward toward the trunk or crossing one another. You want to keep the canopy open and balanced.

Central Leader

This shape keeps a single, upright main trunk with evenly spaced branches radiating outward. It provides a strong structure and is ideal for trees that naturally grow tall, such as apples, pears, and cherries.

• Select the strongest, straightest shoot as the central leader and remove competing vertical branches. Keep 4–6 evenly spaced lateral branches around the trunk, ensuring they form wide angles (45–60°) for strength.
• Each year, shorten the lateral branches to maintain balance and encourage upward growth of the leader while removing any branches that crowd the center or grow downward.

Year-by-Year Training

• In the first few years, continue to remove weak or poorly angled branches.
• Keep the trunk free of suckers (shoots that come from the base or roots) and remove water sprouts (shoots that grow straight up from older branches).

Pruning Established or Mature Deciduous Fruit Trees

Prune Annually

• Skipping a year makes the next pruning session more challenging. Annual pruning helps maintain a manageable height and prevents overcrowding.

Remove Problem Wood

• Always take out dead, dying, or diseased wood. Make your cut below the infected area into healthy tissue, and disinfect your tools (a 10% bleach solution works well) to avoid spreading disease.
• Eliminate any branches that touch or cross each other. One of them must go so neither is damaged.
• If two branches run parallel, consider how they will grow. The upper limb will eventually shade the lower one. Decide which is better for the tree’s shape and health, then remove the other.

Maintain an Open Center or Central Leader

For an open center (vase shape), remove any shoots growing inward toward the trunk to maintain an airy, open shape that allows sunlight and air to circulate freely. Trim the tips of last year’s growth to a height suitable for harvesting, stimulating new shoots for the coming season.

For a central leader, focus on keeping a single, upright trunk as the main leader. Remove any competing vertical shoots and ensure lateral branches are evenly spaced around the trunk, forming wide angles (45–60°) for strength. Trim back lateral branches slightly to encourage balanced growth while removing any that grow inward, downward, or crowd the canopy.

Suckers and Water Sprouts

• Suckers grow from the rootstock and rob energy from fruit production. Remove them as soon as they appear.
• Water sprouts shoot straight up from older branches. Pull or cut them off early to keep your tree’s canopy open and shaped.

Large or Overgrown Trees

• Never remove more than one-third of the tree’s branches in a single year.
• Focus first on the worst offenders—branches that cross or rub, have grown too tall, or crowd the center.
• Step back occasionally to see the tree’s overall shape before making more cuts. Continue removing suckers, water sprouts, and tips of fruiting branches to the desired height.

Final Tips

• Fruit Tree Selection: Trees suited to your region’s chill hours, temperature extremes, and rainfall will grow with less effort, while poorly chosen trees may struggle, require extra care, and produce little fruit. See fruit trees suited for the low desert in this fruit planting guide.
• Proper Planting: Proper planting ensures the tree establishes a strong root system and avoids common issues like poor drainage or unstable growth. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this guide.
• No Pruning Paint: Research shows that wound dressings or pruning paints can trap moisture and pathogens, doing more harm than good. In dry climates, exposed cuts heal best in the open air.
• Shape and Appearance: Keep the final shape (open center or central leader) in mind as you prune. A well-pruned fruit tree is productive and a beautiful addition to your yard.
• Year-Round Attention: Most pruning takes place during the dormant season (winter), but keep an eye out for suckers, water sprouts, or crossing branches during the growing season.
• Thin Remaining Fruit: Thinning reduces the number of fruits, allowing the tree to concentrate its resources on the remaining ones. The result? Larger, juicier, and more flavorful fruit. Learn more about thinning fruit trees in this guide.
• Post-Pruning Care: Proper watering and mulching help your tree recover after pruning. Water deeply to reduce stress and support new growth, especially if pruning was extensive. Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the tree (keeping it a few inches away from the trunk) to retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.

Remember, pruning is a skill learned with practice; even imperfect pruning is better than none! Over time, you’ll see how a little pruning each year leads to beautiful, healthy trees that add beauty to your garden and reward you with sweet, delicious fruit.

Sources:

• A Desert Gardener’s Companion By Kim Nelson
• Grow a Little Fruit Tree: Simple Pruning Techniques for Small-Space, Easy-Harvest Fruit Trees by Ann Ralph

If this post about when and how to prune fruit trees was helpful, please share it.

The post When and How to Prune Fruit Trees appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Proper selection, planting, and care of a citrus tree can provide delicious fruit and a beautiful tree for years to come. If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

Do you have questions about how to grow citrus trees? Are you wondering…

1. Where should I plant a citrus tree?
2. Which size citrus tree is best?
3. Which type of citrus tree should I plant?
4. What time of year should I plant citrus in Arizona?
5. How do I plant citrus trees?
6. What’s the best way to water citrus trees?
7. Is it necessary to fertilize citrus?
8. Do you need to prune citrus trees?
9. How do I protect citrus trees from extremes in the weather?
10. How can I tell if citrus fruit is ripe?

Click on a question to go right to the answer, or keep reading for the answers to all these questions in this post about how to grow citrus trees. 

1. Where should I plant a citrus tree?

Citrus trees are long-lived and, if planted in the correct location, can become an asset to the property. Considerations for where to plant citrus trees include:  

• Plant citrus where they can reach mature size without excessive pruning. Give them plenty of room to grow. 
• Select a location away from all power lines.
• There should be plenty of clearance away from fences, buildings, and property lines on all sides.
• Avoid western exposures; late afternoon summer sun in Arizona is intense and can burn fruit and trees.
• Be aware of the microclimates in your yard, and avoid low spots which can be colder during frost events in the winter.  
• Choose an area free of grass or remove grass before planting. The grass competes with the tree for water and nutrients. 

Learn more principles for gardening in desert climates in this guide.

2. Which size citrus tree is best?

Choose the correct size of citrus tree for the location and your needs. There are often 3 sizes of citrus trees within a variety of citrus. 

• Standard trees can grow 20-25 feet tall and 16-18 feet wide.
• Semi-dwarf trees are about two-thirds the standard size and reach 12-15 feet tall and wide.
• Dwarf trees are grafted onto dwarfing rootstock and often reach 6-8 feet tall and wide.

Dwarf varieties produce the same type and flavor of fruit but about half as much as standard-size varieties. This may be more than enough fruit for the home garden. If more variety in types of citrus is desired, consider planting a few types of dwarf citrus trees rather than one standard-size tree. 

3. Which type of citrus tree should I plant?

This answer is simple; select which type of citrus you want to eat. A properly cared for citrus tree lives for a long time, and over its lifetime will produce hundreds of pounds of fruit. Choose a type of citrus you like to eat and will use so the fruit does not go to waste. 

If you visit a grower during citrus harvesting season, many will allow you to sample fruit right off the tree.

This article talks about 30 different varieties of citrus. Some oranges are best for juicing, and others are best eaten fresh. Try to sample the type of fruit you are considering planting.  Still can’t decide? This article may help you decide which type of citrus tree to plant.  

4. What time of year should I plant citrus in Arizona?

The best time to plant citrus trees in the low desert of Arizona is in the spring after the danger of frost has passed (usually mid to late February). Citrus can be planted from this time through May. Do not plant citrus from June through September. 

A second planting window for citrus is in the fall from October through December. Newly-planted citrus is more susceptible to frost and needs frost protection.

5. How do I plant citrus trees in Arizona?

Give your citrus tree the best chance for a long and healthy life by planting it correctly. 

• Dig a hole 3 to 5 times wider than the diameter of the container of the citrus tree, but no deeper. Wide holes encourage the roots to grow outward through the soil and anchor the tree. 
• Plant as deep as the root level of the pot. Be careful not to bury the graft union where the citrus tree is grafted onto the rootstock.
• Break up the root ball a bit on the bottom to encourage the roots to spread out.
• Backfill with native soil; it is unnecessary to amend the soil or use fertilizer when planting. 
• Remove any stakes or wraps that are around the citrus trunk. Left in place, these can girdle the tree and kill it. 
• If the bark is exposed to sunlight, paint it with a latex-based paint or wrap it with a flexible tree wrap for sun protection. 
• Label your tree. This often-overlooked step is important, so don’t skip it! I use these labels from Amazon. Learn more about how to label trees in this guide.
• Remove fruit from the tree before it matures during the first 2 years to encourage root and tree growth rather than fruit production.

For information about planting citrus in containers, see this guide to growing citrus in containers.

6. What’s the best way to water citrus trees?

Effective watering is the most important part of caring for citrus trees. Many problems with citrus can be traced back to water issues (too much water, not enough water, inconsistent watering, etc.). A big part of learning how to grow citrus in Arizona is learning how to water citrus correctly. 

Here are principles to keep in mind when watering citrus:

• Newly-planted citrus requires more frequent watering than mature citrus. 
• Mature trees need more water as they get larger. 
• Apply water to entire root zone and canopy of the tree plus a little further to encourage root growth beyond the canopy of the tree. Building a berm around the outside edge of the tree canopy is an effective way to water in this zone. 
• Slow, deep applications of water are best. Water to a depth of 1 to 2 feet for newly-planted citrus, and to 3 feet for trees in the ground 3 years or more. (Use a soil probe to see how deep you are watering).  
• Allow the top several inches of soil to dry out between waterings. 
• Watering frequency depends on several factors: the type of soil (clay holds moisture longer than sandy or rocky soils), sun exposure, rain, temperature, and wind conditions. 
• See my monthly blog posts or this publication, “Irrigating Citrus Trees,” from the University of Arizona Extension Office, which has general guidelines for watering intervals.

7. Is it necessary to fertilize citrus?

The production of so much fruit comes at a cost…nitrogen (and other nutrients)! Mature citrus trees are heavy feeders and need regular doses of supplemental fertilizer. The correct feeding of citrus trees rewards you with delicious fruit and a healthy tree year after year.Tips to remember when fertilizing citrus are: 

• Use an organic fertilizer formulated for citrus. Citrus trees benefit from the additional micronutrients and minerals in this type of fertilizer.
• Apply the correct amount of fertilizer depending on the age and size of the tree. Newly-planted citrus and citrus in the ground less than 2 years may not need additional fertilizer. 
• Water citrus well after fertilizing. Nitrogen in fertilizer can be lost if not watered into the soil. 
• Apply fertilizer at the drip line, where it can be taken up and used by the roots. 
• Over-fertilizing can burn roots and damage fruit. It is possible to have too much of a good thing. 
• Apply fertilizer at the correct time of year. The total amount of fertilizer needed for the year is often broken up into 3 feedings*: 

Lemons and limes: apply ⅓ of fertilizer in January – February, ⅓ in March – April, and ⅓ in August – September.

Oranges, mandarins, and grapefruit: ⅓ of the recommended range of fertilizer in January – February, ⅓ in March – April, and ⅓ in May – June. 

*According to the University of Arizona Extension Office. See this Citrus Fertilization Chart for application amount guidelines. 

Once your citrus tree is planted, knowing how to fertilize citrus trees is key to helping it grow strong and start producing fruit. Learn more about how to properly fertilize citrus trees in this guide.

8. Do you need to prune citrus trees?

Unlike other types of fruit trees, citrus trees do not require pruning. Although many people prefer the “skirted” look of citrus trees with lower branches removed, it is best not to prune these branches from citrus trees. These branches naturally shade the trunk and bark from sunburn. When pruning citrus, here are a few things to keep in mind: 

• Do not prune citrus during the summer. 
• Prune in the spring after the danger of frost is past.
• Prune to remove dead branches and crossing limbs.
• Remove suckers and sprouts. Learn how to identify citrus suckers in this guide.
• Always remove suckers below the graft union.

Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.

9. How do I protect citrus trees from extremes in the weather?

The low desert of Arizona ranges from scorching triple-digit heat in the summer to freezing temperatures during the coldest periods of the year. Properly caring for and learning how to grow citrus in Arizona includes giving extra care to citrus during these weather extremes. 

Hot weather:

• Maintain a regular watering schedule and water citrus correctly.
• Do not prune the lower branches of trees, allowing them to shade bark and soil naturally.
• Protect bark exposed to the sun by painting with water-based latex paint or tree wrap. 
• Mulch trees to help maintain soil moisture and temperature. Keep mulch away from the trunk. 

Learn how to protect citrus bark and prevent sunburned citrus bark in this guide.

Freezing: 

• If freezing temperatures are expected, irrigate citrus.
• Have frost cloth or burlap on hand to protect citrus if temperatures dip below 32℉.
• Drape citrus from the top all the way to the ground to trap radiating heat.

Learn more about protecting citrus from freezing temperatures in this guide.

10. How can I tell if citrus fruit is ripe?

Taste is the best measure of when citrus is ripe. It is important to learn the approximate time when the type of citrus you are growing becomes ripe and then begin sampling the fruit.

The color isn’t always the best measure of when the fruit is ripe because the rind color is affected by temperature. Once citrus fruit is picked, it will not ripen anymore.

Leave citrus on the tree until ready to use. Many types of citrus keep on the tree for months. When fruit begins to soften and fall, remove the remaining fruit from the tree.

Once ripe, use lemons to make a refreshing drink with my Homemade Lemonade Recipe. Turn fresh lemons into a cool, tangy treat perfect for hot days.

If you enjoyed this article about how to grow citrus in Arizona, please share it.

The post How to Grow Citrus Trees: A Complete Guide appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In fact, one of the original Washington navel orange trees planted in 1873 still produces fruit in Riverside, California—proving just how long-lived and rewarding citrus trees can be. We drove by and visited it on a recent family trip.

I currently grow 18 citrus varieties in my yard and garden, some in the ground and others in containers. Sampling different types throughout the year is one of my favorite things about growing a large variety of citrus trees. Browse through this list and pick a few varieties that appeal to you.

If you need guidance on how to grow, protect, and care for your citrus trees, take advantage of the following resources on my website:

• How to Grow Citrus
• Growing Citrus in Containers
• Protecting Citrus from Freezes
• Preventing Citrus Sucker and Rootstock Takeover
• Top Tips for Juicing Citrus
• How to Protect Citrus Bark and Prevent Sunburned Citrus Bark

Trying to decide which citrus to plant? This article gives ideas on narrowing your search for the right type.

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

For a refreshing way to put your citrus to use please see my Homemade Lemonade Recipe. Turn fresh lemons into a cool, tangy treat perfect for hot days

Use these resources to ensure your citrus trees thrive for years to come—and don’t forget to share your favorite citrus varieties in the comments.

30 Different Types of Citrus

(Click on the type name to go directly to that variety of citrus)

Washington Navel

One of the most popular varieties. 

Ripens mid-season.

Best eaten fresh. Large, good-quality fruit is seedless and easy to peel. Sensitive to heat.

Cara Cara Navel

Seedless crimson flesh (similar to red grapefruit).

Ripens early winter. 

Rich sweet flavor is similar to other navel varieties.

Lane late navel

Newer Australian variety. 

Ripens beginning in January and can be harvested later than other navels. 

Sometimes called a summer navel. 

DILLER SWEET ORANGE

 Originated in Arizona. 

Small to medium fruit with few seeds.  Trees produce lots of fruit. 

Excellent for juicing. 

MACETERA SWEET ORANGE​

Average size thin-skinned fruit with seeds. Excellent for juicing.

Ripens early in the season. 

Large tree with thorns. 

TROVITA SWEET ORANGE​

Most popular sweet orange. Produces well in Arizona’s low desert. 

Excellent for juicing.

Medium to large fruit with 6-10 seeds per fruit. 

Midknight Valencia

Summer ripening, sweeter than average Valencia. 

Excellent eating and juicing orange. 

Seedless type of citrus tree.

Moro Blood orange

Spring ripening, with tart berry-like flavor.

Distinct purple color even in warmer areas.

sanguinelli blood orange

Spring ripening with tart spicy flavor. 

Blood red juice and red-tinted rind develop best in hot dry summers followed by a cold winter.  

Stores well on tree. 

OWARI SATSUMA MANDARIN

Early ripening (November-December) mandarin.

Less seeds than most mandarins. 

Slow-growing, but hardiest of all mandarins. 

clementine (Algerian) Mandarin

Early ripening (November) tart fruit. 

Small to medium fruit. 

Cross-pollination of multiple trees increases yield and seeds.

daisy mandarin

Early season very sweet-flavored mandarin.

Medium to large fruit, 0-5 seeds. 

Small type of citrus tree.

Rio Red Grapefruit

Most cold-hardy of all grapefruit. 

Large fruit with few seeds. Dark pink flesh. Skin can take on pink tint as well. 

Pick fruit beginning in December and harvest until heat of summer. 

oro blanco (grapefruit-pummelo Hybrid)

Harvest in winter. 

Sweet fruit even in mild climates. Thick peel.  

Fragrant blooms and large glossy green leaves.

marsh seedless grapefruit

Most common white grapefruit in low desert. 

Begin harvesting in December. Fruit tastes best from March – May.

Large with few seeds and white flesh.

sarawak tahitIan pummelo

Small tree. Thinner skin than most pummelos.

Seedy, slightly tart and juicy.

chandler Pummelo

Firm, pink flesh with good flavor. 

Large tree with glossy leaves and large, fragrant  blossoms. 

Early ripening. 

ponderosa lemon

Probably a cross between a lemon and a citron. 

Often grown as an ornamental tree. 

Very large acidic fruit has thick peel.

eureka lemon

Large, vigorous, thornless tree. 

Lemon is rough-rinded with less pronounced nipple. 

Classic lemon, good quality fruit. 

meyer lemon

Improved varieties are virus-free and safe for home garden. 

Fragrant blossoms and thin-skinned, lemons. Juicy fruit has less acid than other lemons. 

Large shrub or small tree. 

lisbon lemon

Medium-sized fruit with traditional tart lemon flavor. 

More prominent nipple and smoother skin than Eureka lemon. 

Like all lemons, more frost-sensitive than other citrus. 

pink eureka lemon

Variegated leaves, with pink blossoms and new foliage.

Pale pink flesh with clear juice. 

One of the few variegated types of citrus trees.

kiEffEr lime – citrus hystrix

Distinctively shaped double leaves.

Aromatic leaves used in Thai cooking, soups and curry. 

Bumpy, rough green fruit ripens to yellow. 

bearSs (tahitiAN) lime

Fruit ripens in June. 

Larger fruit than Mexican lime. 

Juicy and seedless lime.

All limes are extremely frost sensitive.

mexican key lime

Ripens in September. 

Smaller fruit than Bearss lime. 

Flavorful and juicy, with some seeds. 

All limes are extremely frost sensitive. 

buddhA’s hand

Finger-like sections of fruit resemble a human hand. 

Distinct fruit in the citron family. 

Consists only of rind; no juice, pulp or seeds.

ETROG CITRON

Looks like a large, knobby, ribbed lemon.

Very thick rind and aromatic skin.

The rind and oil are the most commonly used parts of the fruit.

​calamondin

Cross between mandarin and kumquat. 

Excellent in containers. 

Cold-hardy to about 20°F.

Prolific tart fruit can be eaten whole. 

nagami kumquat

Oblong, acidic, bright orange fruit.

Cold-hardy to about 18°F.

Often grown as a decorative or ornamental type of citrus tree. 

Fukushu Kumquat

Small, sweet, brightly-colored orange fruit can be eaten whole. 

Small tree with dark foliage. 

Excellent container or ornamental plant. 

More Citrus Growing Resources:

Once your citrus tree is planted, knowing how to fertilize citrus trees is key to helping it grow strong and start producing fruit.

Questions about growing citrus? This article shares 10 common citrus growing mistakes and includes guidelines for selecting, planting, watering, and fertilizing citrus.

Have questions about planting, watering or fertilizing citrus? Listen to this Encyclopedia Botanica podcast I was a guest expert on with Hilary from Seattle Urban Farm Co.

If this post about different citrus varieties was helpful, please share it.

The post Types of Citrus Trees – Varieties of Citrus appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

• Why Grow Grapes in Arizona?
• Choosing the Right Grape Variety
• Preparing Your Soil
• Planting Your Grapevines
• Supporting Grapevines
• Training and Pruning Grapes
• Watering and Fertilizing
• Fruit Thinning
• Protecting Your Grapes from Pests and Diseases
• Harvesting Your Grapes

Why Grow Grapes in Arizona and other hot climates?

Although the desert presents challenges for growing many things, fortunately, grapes are well suited to growing in hot climates. Abundant sunshine helps grapevines thrive. Grapes also are adaptable to many soil types. A well-cared-for grapevine can produce fruit for decades, even in the deserts of Arizona. 

Learn about other perennials and perennial herbs that grow well in Arizona in these guides.

Choosing the Right Grape Variety

Selecting a grape variety suited to your specific elevation is key. In Arizona’s lower elevations (70 to 4,500 feet), European grapes (Vitis vinifera) are your best bet. They prefer warm summers and moderate winters, making them perfect for the low desert. These grapes are versatile—great for fresh eating, making raisins, jelly, juice, and even wine. Some popular European varieties include:

• Thompson Seedless: Light green, seedless, and perfect for fresh eating or raisins.
• Flame Seedless: Red, sweet, sweet, seedless berries for snacking.
• Perlette: Pale green, seedless berries with a unique Muscat flavor.

If you live at a higher elevation (above 4,500 feet), American grapes (Vitis labrusca) and French hybrids are more cold-hardy and better suited to cooler climates.

Preparing Your Soil

Choose a site that gets full sun—grapes need plenty of light to thrive. Most of my vines grow against a west‑facing wall, and they tolerate the intense sun better than I thought they would. I once planted one with a northern exposure; they never received enough light and struggled. After moving it to a sunnier spot, the vines finally took off.

Grapes prefer loamy soils with good drainage. While they can adapt to different soil types, avoiding heavy clay soils or areas with shallow caliche layers that hinder water drainage is best. Not sure if it drains well? After digging your hole, fill it with water. The water should drain out within an hour or two. If you’re unsure about your soil’s quality, consider getting it tested. Adding compost can improve moisture retention and increase organic matter, giving your vines a healthy start.

Planting Your Grapevines

Plant your grapevines in early spring, after the last frost. You can also plant grapes in the fall if you live in the low desert of Arizona. If you’re using bare-root vines, keep the roots moist before planting. Plant potted vines with their existing soil.

Here’s how to plant your vines:

1. Dig a Hole: Make it about 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) wide and 1-2 feet (30-60 cm)deep.
2. Spacing: Allow 6-7 feet (1.8-2.1 m) between plants. For French hybrids, allow 8-9 feet (2.4-2.7m).
3. Prepare the Vine: Trim any broken roots and cut back the roots on bare root plants to about 4-5 inches (10-12 cm). If there are multiple shoots, keep one and trim it to two buds.
4. Planting: Place the vine in the hole, backfill it with native soil, and top it with a thick layer of compost. Firm the soil around the plant.
5. Watering: Water thoroughly after planting, then wait until you see new leaves before watering again.

Keep the area around your vine free of weeds and grass–they can choke out the young vines. Mulching can help control weeds and retain soil moisture. Learn more about mulching in this guide.

Supporting Grapevines

Grapevines need support to grow properly. You can use fences, trellises, arbors, or even single stakes. If using a stake, place a seven-foot (2.1 m) stake about two feet into the ground next to your vine. This helps train the vine to grow straight and strong.

See this vine growing guide if you’re looking for more vines that thrive in the desert.

Training and Pruning Grapes

Training your grapevine involves guiding it to develop a strong trunk and root system. In the first year, select the straightest shoot and tie it to your stake, removing any other shoots. Allow it to grow to about 42 inches (106 cm) tall.

Pruning is essential for healthy grape production. Grapes produce fruit on one-year-old wood, so annual pruning balances fruit and new growth. In the first couple of years, focus on establishing a strong framework rather than fruit production. By the third year, your vine will be ready to produce grapes.

Here’s a simple pruning guide:

• First Dormant Season: After the first growing season, prune back to establish your main trunk and a few select canes.
• Second Dormant Season: Select four healthy canes to keep (two near the top and two lower down) and prune the rest. Cut these canes back to 8-12 buds, depending on the vine’s vigor.
• Subsequent Seasons: Each year, remove the old fruiting canes and select new ones from the previous season’s growth.

Pruning may seem overwhelming, and you will probably make mistakes. It doesn’t need to be perfect. Aim to learn a little more each season, and you will improve over time.

Watering and Fertilizing

Grapes have deep roots and prefer infrequent, deep watering. In the summer, water every 7-10 days, ensuring the top few inches of the soil dries out a bit between waterings. The most important time for water is when leaves and grape clusters are developing.

Grapes are deciduous and will need minimal water in the winter. Learn more about how to water your garden in this guide.

For newly planted grapevines, giving them a light feeding in April can provide a helpful boost. Starting in the spring of the third year, begin a regular fertilization routine using a balanced organic fertilizer. Apply it each February and May to support healthy growth and fruit production. Alternatively, you can enrich your soil several times a year with compost and worm castings—this is one of my favorite natural methods to nourish your vines. Learn more about this fertilization method here.

Fruit Thinning

To improve the size and quality of your grapes, you can thin the berries and reduce the number of clusters per vine. Before the vines bloom, gently remove about 75% of the berries in each cluster. This allows the remaining grapes to grow larger and sweeter. Also, consider limiting the number of clusters to about 20-25 per vine for optimal results.

Protecting Your Grapes from Pests and Diseases

Keeping your grapevines healthy involves staying vigilant against pests and diseases that can affect them in Arizona’s warm climate.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are tiny, winged insects that can be a nuisance to your grapevines. They feed on the sap of the leaves, causing them to yellow, wilt, and potentially stunt the growth of your vines. Additionally, whiteflies excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which can lead to the growth of sooty mold on the leaves.

Managing Whiteflies:

• Regular Monitoring: Keep a close eye on your grapevines, especially the undersides of the leaves where whiteflies like to hide. Early detection makes it much easier to manage them.
• Natural Predators: Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps, which naturally prey on whiteflies. Planting flowers such as marigolds or alyssum nearby can attract these helpful allies.
• Insecticidal Soaps: If you notice a significant infestation, using insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils can help reduce whitefly populations. Be sure to follow the product instructions carefully.
• Cultural Practices: Remove heavily infested leaves and dispose of them properly to prevent the whiteflies from spreading. Keeping your vines healthy through proper watering and fertilization can also make them less susceptible to pests.

Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer

As the warm days of May arrive, it’s important to watch out for the Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer (Harrisina metallica). This moth’s larvae have a voracious appetite for grape leaves and can cause serious damage if not promptly addressed.

The adult moths lay eggs on the underside of grape leaves. When the larvae hatch, they feed in large groups, munching away at the leaf tissue and leaving only the veins—a process known as skeletonizing. Severe infestations can defoliate entire vines, reducing photosynthesis and leading to a significant drop in grape production.

Managing the Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer:

• Stay Alert: Regularly inspect your grapevines for eggs, larvae, or signs of feeding damage. Early detection can make management much easier.
• Welcome Beneficial Insects: Introducing natural predators like the parasitic wasp (Apanteles harrisinae) and the tachinid fly (Ametadoria misella) can help control the larvae population.
• Consider Organic Insecticides: If you notice a severe infestation, organic options like Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Bt) or Spinosad can be effective against the larvae while being environmentally friendly. See Bt on Amazon.
• Practice Good Garden Hygiene: Remove fallen leaves and debris from around your grapevines to reduce places where larvae can pupate, helping to break the pest’s life cycle.

Other Pests and Diseases

Don’t forget about other common pests like grape leafhoppers, which can cause leaves to appear speckled or bronze. Insecticidal soaps can help manage these tiny sap-sucking insects.

Regular monitoring can keep your vines healthy from diseases like powdery mildew. If spotted, use the recommendations in this guide to treat powdery mildew. 

Harvesting Your Grapes

By the third or fourth year, your patience will pay off! Grapes are typically ready to harvest when they have full color and sweet flavor. Enjoy them fresh, or try your hand at making raisins or jelly.

Grapes left on the vine too long in the heat will become raisins all on thier own! Don’t forget to harvest and enjoy your grapes.

Conclusion

I love having grapes growing in my garden. They are one of several perennials that, with a bit of seasonal care, provide abundant harvests for years. Questions about how to grow grapes? Ask them in the comments. 

Sources

• Growing Grapes in the Home Garden by Tom DeGomez. The University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. 2015
• Understanding the Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer:Management in Commercial Vineyards. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Arizona Pest Management Center. 09/23

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Article Outline:

• Why Figs Thrive in Arizona
• Flowering and Fruiting
• Choosing the Right Spot
• Growing Figs in Containers
• Planting Your Fig Tree
• Watering Tips
• Fertilization
• Pruning Practices
• Pest Management
• ​​Harvesting and Storing Figs

Why Figs Thrive in Arizona

Figs (Ficus carica) are deciduous trees that shed their leaves annually. This natural cycle allows them to conserve energy during the cooler months and burst back to life in spring. They require fewer chill hours than many other fruit trees. (Chill hours are the number of hours in winter when temperatures drop below 45°F (7°C), allowing the plant to break dormancy and set fruit.) Since figs need less than 300 chill hours, they’re well-suited to Arizona’s mild winters. Learn about other fruit trees that grow well in Arizona in this guide.

Flowering and Fruiting

You’ll enjoy two harvest periods:

• Breba Crop: This is the first crop that develops on the previous year’s growth (last season’s wood) and ripens in early summer (late June). These figs are often larger but might be slightly less sweet than the main crop.
• Main Crop: The second harvest comes in late summer or early fall (August or September) and grows on the current season’s growth. These figs are typically more abundant and flavorful.

Interestingly, fig flowers bloom inside the developing fruit, so you won’t see them. No need to worry about pollination either—common figs have perfect flowers and self-pollinate.

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

Choosing the Right Spot

Fig trees can grow quite large, reaching 10 to 30 feet (3-9 meters) tall, and are often wider than tall. So, pick a spot with plenty of room. Figs love full sun, needing at least 8-10 hours of sunlight daily, and they prefer well-drained soil. 

Growing Figs in Containers

If space is limited or you prefer container gardening, figs grow well in large pots. Here’s how to do it:

• Choose a Large Container: Use a pot at least the size of a whiskey barrel to give the roots plenty of room to grow. Ensure it has good drainage holes at the bottom.
• Watering: Water deeply each time you water to ensure the entire root system gets moisture. Containers can dry out faster than the ground, so check the soil regularly, especially during hot weather. A thick layer of mulch helps preserve moisture. 
• Feeding: In January, feed your potted fig tree with manure. This annual feeding provides essential nutrients for healthy growth and fruit production.

Learn more about container gardening in this guide.

Planting Your Fig Tree

The best time to plant figs is in the fall or early spring. This gives the roots time to establish before the intense summer heat arrives. Two varieties perform exceptionally well in the low desert:

• Brown Turkey Fig: These medium-brown fruits, which have a slight purple exterior and pink interior, are great for eating fresh.
• Black Mission Fig: Ideal for preserving, this larger variety has a darker exterior and boasts a pink interior.

Watering Tips

Proper irrigation boosts fruit size and production. Aim to water deeply, reaching about three feet into the soil. Creating a basin around the tree—an indented area with a berm—helps keep water where the roots are actively growing.

Prolonged dry, hot weather can reduce fruit quality. Ensure consistent watering and consider mulching around the base to retain soil moisture. Monitor the soil and water more frequently in the summer and much less often during cooler temperatures. 

Fertilization

Figs planted in the ground usually don’t need much fertilization unless they’re growing in sandy soil or if you notice less than a foot of branch growth since last year. A soil test can help determine if additional nutrients are needed.

Pruning Practices

One of the joys of growing figs is that they don’t require special pruning to produce fruit. However, understanding the breba crop is essential:

Since breba figs grow on last year’s wood, heavy winter pruning can reduce or eliminate this early harvest. To enjoy a substantial breba crop, minimize pruning of older branches.

In warmer regions, it’s best to prune after the second harvest in the fall. In areas with colder winters, wait until the coldest part has passed to protect the tree from cold damage.

Pest Management

Figs are relatively pest-free, but you might encounter:

• Green Fig Beetles: These pests eat ripening fruit. Covering the tree with netting or bagging the fruit can help.
• Birds: They love figs as much as we do. Netting can deter them.
• Gophers: They can damage roots. Trapping can help; learn how to trap gophers in this guide. 

Crown Gall and Cotton (or Texas) Root Rot are two diseases that can affect figs in Arizona. Avoid planting figs in soils with these diseases, as prevention is the only effective measure.

​​Harvesting and Storing Figs

Figs are ready to pick when they droop on the tree, the neck softens, and the fruit hangs down. Ripe figs will be slightly soft and may have a sweet aroma. The skin might start to crack or split, indicating peak ripeness. Gently lift the ripe fig upward; it should detach easily from the branch. Handle them carefully, as figs are delicate and can bruise easily.

Fresh figs are highly perishable. It’s best to eat them soon after picking. If you need to store them, place figs in a single layer on a plate or shallow container and refrigerate. They’ll keep it in the fridge for about 2-3 days. For longer storage, consider drying your figs or making preserves. Dried figs can last several months when stored in an airtight container, while homemade fig jams and preserves can be enjoyed year-round.

Source:

Source: Growing Common Figs in the Low Desert, Stacey R. Bealmear-Jones, July 2014

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10 Tips for How to Grow Strawberries

1. Choose the appropriate type of strawberry plant for your climate and preference

• June – Sets one large crop of fruit in June (typically). June types set flowers when the day length is less than 10 hours a day. You typically get a large amount of fruit at once. Varieties to try: Chandler, Camerosa, Sequoia, Tioga.
• Everbearing – Sets fruit twice; one harvest early in the season with a smaller harvest in the fall. Less heat-tolerant than June bearing. Everbearing strawberry plants begin flower production when the day is over 12 hours. Varieties to try: Quinault, White Carolina Pineberry.
• Day-Neutral (a type of Everbearing) – Not affected by day length; bears full-size fruit all season. Remove runners and pick fruit regularly to encourage production. Varieties to try: Tribute, Tristar.

2. Plant strawberries at the proper time

Strawberries are frost-sensitive; they prefer temperatures between 35-85℉ (1.6-29°C). In most areas, strawberries are planted in early spring when the ground is workable.

3. Choose the best location in your garden for planting strawberries

Strawberries need rich, well-draining, slightly acidic soil and full sun. Work the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches and remove all weeds. Strawberries grown in poorly-draining soil are more prone to pests and diseases. Amend the planting area with compost and worm castings before planting.

Check your soil’s pH level. Strawberries prefer soil between 5.5 – 6.8 pH. If necessary, apply a soil acidifier to lower the pH. For the least stress on plants, a gradual reduction in pH is preferred.

4. Plant strawberries in your garden correctly

Purchase disease-free crowns and transplants from nurseries to avoid diseases common to strawberries. Plant strawberry plants 12″ (30cm) apart, taking care not to bury the crown. 

If planting from crowns, follow these steps: 

• Trim roots to about 4″ (10cm) long, and soak in compost tea. 
• Just before planting, dust roots with kelp meal and bone meal.
• Dig a 6″ (15 cm) hole with a cone of soil in the middle.
• Drape roots over cone, filling in hole with soil.
• DO NOT BURY CROWN. The crown should remain above the soil.
• Water in crowns with compost or worm casting tea.   

5. Mulch strawberries well

Mulch strawberries with a 3-4” (7-10 cm) layer of organic mulch (straw, newspaper, leaves, etc.). Learn more about mulching in this guide. Reasons to mulch strawberries:

• It preserves moisture and prevents strawberries from drying out.
• Keeps leaves and stems off the ground.
• Regulates soil temperatures.
• Keeps weeds down.
• Provides a barrier for soil-borne pests.

6. Water and fertilize strawberries correctly

• Water strawberries to a depth of 12″ (30 cm).
• Let the top of the soil dry out a bit between waterings.
• Keep soil moist while fruiting.  
• Fertilize with a kelp mixture when flower buds appear.
• Apply organic fertilizer monthly (if needed) throughout the growing season. 

7. Grow sweet strawberries

One of the best reasons for growing strawberries is the taste! Nothing is better than eating a ripe, sweet strawberry from the garden. However, when homegrown strawberries aren’t sweet, it is disappointing. There are a few things you can do to encourage sweet strawberries:

• Check the pH level of your soil. (Ideal soil pH for strawberries is 5.5 – 6-8).
• Give strawberries plenty of sunlight. (Morning sun is best).
• Strawberries need compost-rich soil high in nutrients; fertilize as needed.
• Smaller types of strawberries tend to be sweeter than larger berries.
• Wait to harvest strawberries until they are completely red.
• Harvest berries first thing in the morning.

8. Encourage strong strawberry plants

• Remove flowers for 2-3 weeks after planting to encourage root production.
• Remove runners from plants immediately to keep energy in plants. If desired, pot up runners with potting soil and keep them well-watered while they develop roots.
• After 3-4 years, harvests may diminish. At this time, it’s best to remove old strawberry plants and begin again with new crowns from the nursery in a different location (avoid locations where strawberries, raspberries, tomatoes, or potatoes grew previously).

9. Prevent and manage common strawberry pests in your garden

We aren’t the only ones who enjoy fresh strawberries in the garden. Here are a few common pests and tips for managing them:

Birds: Use barrier methods. Add cloches and netting. Pick fruit immediately when ripe.

Slugs: Remove slugs by hand at night and set beer or yeast traps. Use strawberry supports to lift strawberries off the ground. 

Pill Bugs: Grow strawberries in containers, grow bags, or a GreenStalk vertical planter (use my discount code GITG10 to save). Straw mulch keeps fruit off of dirt and away from bugs. Use strawberry supports to lift strawberries up off the ground. Read this blog post for other pill bug control methods.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

10. Harvesting and using strawberries

Wait to harvest until the berries are fully red. Strawberries do not ripen further once picked. Cut strawberries off the plant, leaving a small stem attached. Lay picked berries in a shallow pan to prevent bruising. 

Pick rotting berries off the plant and discard. Leave caps of berries attached until just before eating. Use harvested strawberries as soon as possible.

How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona:

It can be difficult, but growing strawberries in the garden in Arizona is not impossible. If you decide to grow strawberries in the low desert of Arizona, here are a few additional tips to keep in mind: 

• You may need to plant new plants each year. Arizona summers are very hard on strawberry plants, and they often die.
• Strawberries in Arizona need afternoon shade. Plant asparagus and sunflowers nearby as companion plants to shade strawberries during the summer. 
• Water strawberries every day in the summer.
• Mulch strawberries well.
• Strawberries are salt-sensitive, making them difficult to grow in Arizona’s salty soil. Regular deep watering can help wash salts from the soil.
• Strawberries are sensitive to frost, especially during their flowering and fruiting stages. Covering them with frost blankets, straw mulch, or other protective materials can help prevent frost damage and protect the blossoms and developing fruit.
• Plant strawberries in the low desert of Arizona from mid-September through January. Planting strawberries by November 15th allows plants to become more established by spring. 
• Varieties to try in the low desert of Arizona: Eversweet (continuous harvests of large, sweet strawberries throughout spring and fall); Chandler (early to mid-June bearing); Quinault; Sequoia (June-bearing plant, commonly grown in Arizona); Tristar (heavy crop in early spring, slow production in hot summer weather, and large berries in the fall).

Want more information about gardening in Arizona? This blog post shares seven tips for how to grow a vegetable garden in Arizona. 

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Article Index

1. Select the Best Variety for Your Climate
2. Prepare the Perfect Planting Spot
3. Plant Watermelon Seeds Directly in Warm Soil
4. Ensure Blossoms are Pollinated
5. Provide Optimal Conditions for Large, Sweet Fruit
6. Protect Watermelon from Pests
7. Harvest Watermelon at the Perfect Time

7 Tips for How to Grow Watermelon

Watermelon needs plenty of space and at least 80 days of warm temperatures to grow well. If you can provide these conditions, learn how to grow watermelon with these tips.

1. Select the Best Variety for Your Climate

Most varieties do well in warm climates. Some favorites include Crimson Sweet and Moon and Stars. Try this storage watermelon, Diné Origin Sweet Storage Watermelon, which will keep for months.

In hot summer climates like the low desert of Arizona, choose short-season varieties or types adapted to the heat of the summer, such as Pueblo Watermelon, Sugar Baby, and Hopi Yellow.

In cooler climates, choose short-season varieties such as Sweet Siberian Watermelon, Sugar Baby, or Jeremiah the Bullfrog Watermelon.

Smaller growing space? Choose shorter-vining varieties such as Bush Sugar Baby or Cal Sweet Bush. 

2. Prepare the Perfect Planting Spot

Choose a site for planting that receives plentiful sunlight (at least 6-8 hours). They prefer well-draining soil that’s slightly acidic to neutral. Think sandy loam or loamy soil. Mix in some compost or aged manure. Boost the soil further with a balanced organic fertilizer. Check your soil’s pH and nutrient levels if you’re not sure.

Watermelons need plenty of room to spread. Vines can grow up to 20 feet (6 m) long, so ensure your garden has enough space.

Grow two watermelon plants in one 4 x 8 foot (1.2 x 2.4 m) bed or one plant in a 4 x 4 (1.2 x 1.2 m) foot bed. If you’re tight on space, you might want to try shorter-vining varieties or even grow them in containers or vertically. Growing vertically? Use melon cradles to support the fruit.

If using square foot gardening, plant shorter bush varieties, plant at the end or corner of a bed, and plan on one plant per 3-4 squares. 

3. Plant Watermelon Seeds Directly in Warm Soil

Watermelons do best when sown directly into warm soil (70°F/21°C) or higher. (Use a soil thermometer to check the temperature.) Plant 2-3 weeks after the last frost date. In the low desert of Arizona, March is the best time to plant.

Sow seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep and 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5 m) apart. Thin to the strongest seedling once they emerge. If you’re in a cooler climate, start seeds indoors about 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Handle the young plants gently, keep the soil moist, and avoid disturbing the roots when you transplant.

4. Ensure Blossoms are Pollinated

Watermelon plants need pollination from male to female flowers. If you don’t have enough natural pollinators, you might need to hand-pollinate. Planting flowers at the ends of your beds can help attract bees and other pollinators.

5. Provide Optimal Conditions for Large, Sweet Fruit

Watermelons really live up to their name—they need a lot of water! Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when the plants are setting fruit. Water deeply and let the top couple of inches dry out between waterings. If possilbe, avoid watering the last week before harvest to prevent bland fruit and split melons.

Start with rich soil, and once the plants begin flowering, switch to a flowering fertilzer. Too much nitrogen will lead to lots of leaves but fewer fruits. Mulch around your plants to keep the soil moist and weed-free.

Let the vines grow naturally and avoid pruning, as the leaves help sweeten the fruit. For bigger and more flavorful melons, limit the fruit to 1-2 per plant. As the season winds down and frost approaches, remove smaller fruits to let the larger ones fully mature.

6. Protect Watermelon from Pests

Keep fruit off the ground with cardboard or melon cradles to protect them from pests like beetles and pill bugs. Check leaves for squash bugs and their eggs. Mesh bags and traps can help with rats. For powdery mildew, remove affected leaves and spray with a mix of potassium bicarbonate powder and liquid castile soap. Learn more in this blog post.

7. Harvest Watermelon at the Perfect Time

Watermelons won’t ripen further once picked, so wait until they’re fully ripe. Cut the stem just above the melon to harvest. Knowing when to harvest is key. Look for these signs:

• The underside of the watermelon turns creamy yellow.
• The tendril at the stem end turns brown.
• The rind changes from a slick sheen to a dull appearance.
• A deep, low-pitched thump when tapped.

For the best flavor, store whole watermelons at room temperature and eat them within a week or two. They’ll last a bit longer in the fridge, but the taste and texture might not be as great. Juice any extra watermelon and freeze it.

Remember to give watermelons space, warmth, and time; you’ll be rewarded with a sweet, juicy harvest. Do you have questions or tips of your own? Drop a comment below.

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Article Index:

• Cantaloupe Fruit Not Forming
• Rotten or Soft Spots on Fruit
• Splitting Fruit
• Seedlings Disappearing After Planting
• Powdery Mildew
• Holes in Cantaloupe Fruit
• Insect Damage on Fruit
• Squash Bugs
• Aphids on Cantaloupe Plants
• Bland or Tasteless Fruit

Cantaloupe Fruit Not Forming

Cantaloupe plants typically produce male flowers first, with female flowers appearing later. If you notice that the female flowers are withering without developing into fruit, it might be a pollination issue. Hand-pollinating can be an effective solution.

To hand-pollinate, remove a male blossom, peel back the petals, and rub the flowers together. This transfers pollen from the inside of the male flower to the female flower. Hand pollination ensures that the cantaloupe fruit will form and develop properly.

Rotten or Soft Spots on Fruit

Blossom end rot manifests as a dark, sunken spot on the fruit that gradually spreads. This problem often stems from inconsistent soil moisture, which disrupts calcium absorption necessary for fruit development. To prevent blossom end rot, keep soil consistently moist, especially during dry spells. Learn more solutions for blossom end rot in this blog post.

Splitting Fruit

Fruit splitting is a common cantaloupe growing problem. This typically occurs when plants experience irregular or inconsistant watering, particularly after heavy rain. To mitigate this, maintain a steady watering schedule, and if a heavy rainstorm is forecasted, harvest fruits that are close to ripening to prevent splitting.

Seedlings Disappearing After Planting

Cantaloupe seeds emerge quickly in warm soil. If you’ve planted seeds and they are not visible within a few days, you may have pest issues. Cantaloupe vines are a favorite of rollie-pollies or pill bugs. If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings, sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that thrives in humid, wet conditions and can cause white, powdery spots on leaves. It’s essential to improve air circulation around your plants by growing them vertically on trellises or using cages. Regularly remove and dispose of infected leaves to reduce spore spread. Consider planting resistant varieties like Ambrosia to further reduce the risk. Learn more powdery mildew treatment options in this article.

Holes in Cantaloupe Fruit

Holes in cantaloupe fruits are a common problem, often caused by pests such as birds or rodents. To protect your crop, place the fruit in mesh bags that keep pests away. Additionally, consistently setting rat traps around your garden can help catch and control rodent populations.

Cantaloupe Growing Problems and How to Solve Them

Insect Damage on Fruit

Beetles and pill bugs can be particularly damaging to cantaloupes left on the soil. To prevent this, use melon support cradles to elevate the fruit or grow cantaloupes vertically on a trellis.

Squash Bugs

Squash bugs are notorious for attacking cantaloupes and other cucurbits. To manage these pests, practice crop rotation to disrupt their life cycle. Regularly inspect the undersides of leaves for eggs and nymphs. Removing these pests early can prevent significant damage. Learn more about how to control squash bugs in this article.

Aphids on Cantaloupe Plants

Aphids are small but can cause big problems, particularly on stressed plants. They feed on plant sap and can transmit diseases. The best defense against aphids is healthy plants. Good watering practices, enough sunlight, and healthy soil are crucial. Remove heavily infested leaves and encourage natural predators like ladybugs, which help control aphid populations. This article gives ideas for how to attract beneficial insects.

Bland or Tasteless Fruit

If your cantaloupes are bland or lack flavor, use these tips to solve this common cantaloupe growing problem:

• Rich Soil Produces Sweeter Fruit: Amend the soil with compost and a balanced fertilizer prior to planting.
• Do Not Prune Off Leaves or Shoots: The leaves produce the sugars that sweeten the fruits. 
• Select Flavorful Varieties: Choose cantaloupe varieties known for their sweetness and flavor, such as ‘Ambrosia’ or ‘Sugar Cube.’
• Reduce the Number of Fruits: Limit the number of fruits per plant to one or two to allow each fruit to absorb more energy and nutrients, enhancing sweetness and flavor.
• Control Watering: About a week before melons are ripe, cut back watering as much as possible to concentrate the fruit’s sugars. 
• Harvest at the Right Time: Pick cantaloupes when they have a sweet aroma and the stem begins to turn brown. Ripe fruit will have a full, sweet flavor.

Learn more about how to grow sweet cantaloupe in this blog post.

By staying vigilant and addressing these common cantaloupe growing problems proactively, you can enjoy a thriving cantaloupe harvest and make the most of your gardening efforts. Get more garden troubleshooting ideas in this blog post.

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Article Outline:

• Choose a cantaloupe variety suited to your climate and growing conditions
• When to plant cantaloupe
• How and where to plant cantaloupe
• How to care for cantaloupe throughout the season
• Should you prune cantaloupe plants?
• Tips for growing sweet cantaloupe that is full of flavor
• When to harvest cantaloupe for the sweetest flavor

Choose a cantaloupe variety suited to your climate and growing conditions

Each climate and garden is different; luckily, there is probably a type of cantaloupe that will grow well where you live. Check with local growers or seed companies for their suggestions. You can also use these ideas to help you find the best cantaloupe for your area. If you have a short growing season, look for shorter days to harvest varieties.

• Ambrosia – sweet variety; resistant to powdery mildew.
• Mini Sugar Cube – disease resistant; small fruits; only 75 days to harvest.
• Hale’s Best Jumbo * – sweet and large; only 80 days to harvest.
• Planter’s Jumbo – does best in hot climates; resistant to powdery mildew.
• Chimayo Melon – Spanish heirloom from New Mexico.
• Hearts of Gold * – old fashioned variety with sweet flavor; only 80 days to harvest.
• Minnesota Midget – short-season variety; compact vines. 

* = My favorite varieties to grow in the low desert of Arizona.

When to plant cantaloupe

Cantaloupe prefers warm weather, so don’t plant it before temperatures have warmed in the spring. Cantaloupe does best when direct sown. Sow seeds outside about 2 weeks after the last frost date when soil temperatures are about 65℉ (18°C). In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to plant cantaloupe is from February 15 through July. 

In cooler zones, transplants are probably a good idea. Start seeds indoors about 3 weeks before planting outside. Transplant cantaloupe seedlings 1-2 weeks after your last frost date or when the soil is at least 65℉ (18°C) and nighttime temperatures are above 50℉ (10°C). Be careful not to disturb roots when planting to avoid transplant shock.

How and where to plant cantaloupe

Cantaloupe prefers a sunny location with well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Prior to planting, amend the soil with compost and a balanced organic fertilizer. Rich soil produces sweeter cantaloupes.

• Plant 2-3 seeds 1/4″ (.6 cm) deep.
• Thin seedlings and keep only the strongest seedling in each group. 

Spacing:

• Space plants 24-36″ (60-90 cm) apart if left to sprawl on the ground. 
• Space plants 12-18″ (30-45 cm) apart if growing up a trellis. 
• If using square-foot gardening methods, allow 1-3 square feet for each plant if grown at the end of a bed or on a trellis. Allow more room for other areas. 

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas. Find even more ways to add vertical space to your garden in this blog post.

How to care for cantaloupe throughout the season

Cantaloupe thrives in warm weather and grows best when it gets regular water and plenty of sunshine.

• Water plants deeply to encourage strong root development. Allow the top couple of inches of soil to dry out before watering again.
• Mulch cantaloupe plants to help retain moisture, regulate temperature, control weeds, and keep fruit clean.
• Male flowers will appear first, followed by female flowers. If female fruit withers and dies, consider hand-pollinating future blooms. 

For troubleshooting tips for common cantaloupe growing problems, read this article.

Should you prune cantaloupe plants?

Generally, allowing more leaves to remain on the vine sweetens the fruit, so pruning cantaloupe isn’t necessary. However, there are situations where it’s helpful.

• Pruning about one-third of the suckers (side shoots that form along the vine where a leaf, tendril, and flower meet) can help with airflow and disease prevention and make plants easier to the trellis.
• Pruning damaged, diseased, or infested leaves can help prevent the disease from spreading to the rest of the plant.
• Pruning off excess fruit helps you grow larger, sweeter melons. For the most flavor, allow only 1-2 melons per plant.
• If you live in a cold climate, remove blossoms that will not have time to develop before your first fall frost. This will allow the fruit already growing to ripen.

Tips for growing sweet cantaloupe that is full of flavor

• Don’t overwater while the fruit is growing. Too much water (or rain) produces bland-tasting fruit.
• Remove additional fruit once several fruits have formed. Ripening only one or two fruit at a time maximizes sweetness. The more fruit ripening on a vine at the same time, the less sweet it will be.
• Do not prune off leaves or shoots. The leaves produce the sugars that sweeten the fruits. 
• About a week before melons are ripe, cut back watering as much as possible to concentrate the fruit’s sugars. 
• Harvest cantaloupe at the right time (see chart below). 

When to harvest cantaloupe for the sweetest flavor

Once picked, cantaloupe will continue to soften, but it won’t get any sweeter. Leaving it on the vine as long as possible gives it the sweetest flavor. When you grow your own cantaloupe, you can pick it at the peak of sweetness. It is so good! 

Melons last 3-5 days if left at room temperature. Uncut cantaloupe stored in the fridge lasts up to 2 weeks. Once the fruit is cut, it will keep for about 3 days in the refrigerator.

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Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.

Food Forest Benefits

A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.

The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.

Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests

Understanding Chill Hours:

To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.

In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range.  If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.

Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.

Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones

When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.

Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests

Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.

Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona

Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (January – March Harvests)

• Navel Orange
• Cara Cara Red Navel
• Minneola Tangelo
• Blood Oranges
• Variegated Pink Eureka Lemon
• Most varieties of Grapefruits
• Valencia Oranges (through May)

Arizona Food Forest Spring Fruits (April – June Harvests)

• Katy Apricot
• Gold Kist Apricot
• Bonanza Miniature Peach
• Earligrande Peach
• Desert Gold Peach
• Tropical Beauty Peach
• Eva’s Pride Peach
• Methley Plum
• Dwarf Mulberry
• White Pakistan Mulberry
• Everbearing Mulberry
• Guava Kilo
• Thai White Guava
• Dwarf Black Mulberry (also fruits in fall)
• Wolfberry (also fruits in fall)
• Anna Apple

Summer Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (July – September Harvests)

• Early Amber Peach
• Mid-Pride Peach
• Donut Peach
• Janice Seedless Kadota Fig – see fig growing guide
• Desert King Fig
• Red Flame Seedless Grape
• Mexican Lime (can fruit all year)
• Biew Kiew Longan
• Banana (also fruits in fall)
• Dorsett Golden Apple
• Flordahome Pear
• Jojoba

Arizona Food Forest Fall Fruits (October – December Harvests)

• Kieffer Pear
• Contorted Jujube
• Li Jujube
• Parfianka Pomegranate
• Wonderful Pomegranate
• Koroneiki Olive
• Manzanillo Olive
• Sugar Cane (also harvested in early winter)
• Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Kumquats (through March)
• Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
• Eureka Lemon
• Lisbon Lemon
• Bearss Lime
• Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)

These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.

Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees

Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.

• Prune and thin trees for health and productivity. Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.
• Maintain soil fertility using organic compost and mulches. Learn how to organically feed fruit trees in this post.
• Use organic approaches to pest and disease management to keep your ecosystem balanced.

Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest

When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.

Note:

This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on fruit trees, vegetables, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey

When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:

• Local Agricultural Extension Office: These folks are a goldmine of knowledge on regional-specific planting.
• Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
• Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
• “Gaia’s Garden“ by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
• “Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth” – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein. A comprehensive guide to creating your own home ecosystem.

Remember, don’t just rely on one source; tap into several to get a well-rounded view.

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