Campanula, also known as Canterbury bells or bellflower, is one of those cool-season flowers that always gets people’s attention. The tall, delicate blooms are striking in the garden and in bouquets. Every spring, when I share photos or give a bunch to a friend, I usually get a text later: “What are those flowers?”

In this post, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to grow Campanula successfully as a cool-season hardy annual flower.

What We’ll Cover:

• Why I Love Growing Campanula
• Is Campanula a Perennial or Annual?
• Best Varieties of Campanula for Cut Flowers
• How to Grow Campanula from Seed
• When and Where to Plant Campanula
• Spacing, Support, and Fertilizer
• Harvesting and Vase Life
• Quick Facts About Campanula
• Campanula FAQ (Canterbury Bells)

Why I Love Growing Campanula

Campanula doesn’t look like something you’d expect to grow in a home garden—especially not in the desert. But when you get the timing right, the results are truly spectacular. Each flower is beautiful up close, and the tall spires add elegance to both garden beds and mixed bouquets.

Pollinators love them, too. After a rain, the open bells often hold tiny pools of water that bees and beneficial insects take full advantage of. And in the vase? Campanula holds up well, often lasting 7 to 14 days.

They pair beautifully with other cool-season favorites like those in my post How to Grow Foxgloves, Scabiosa: How to Grow Pincushion Flowers, and How to Grow Tall Snapdragons for Cut Flowers.

Is Campanula Perennial or Annual?

Is Campanula a perennial or an annual? It depends on the variety and where you garden. In cooler climates, many types of Campanula are perennials. But in warm zones, particularly the low desert, I grow specific varieties (like the Champion series) bred to bloom in their first year. I treat them as cool-season hardy annuals.

To learn more about growing these types of flowers, read Cool-Season Hardy Annual Flowers: Plan Ahead For Spring Blooms.

Best Varieties of Campanula for Cut Flowers

The Champion series is my favorite for cut flowers. ‘Champion’, ‘Champion II’, and ‘Champion Pro’ all perform well. ‘Champion Pro’ grows slightly smaller flowers but offers more stems per plant and blooms in lavender, white, pink, and deep blue.

How to Grow Campanula from Seed

I start Campanula seeds indoors in August or September so the seedlings are ready to transplant in fall. Here’s what you need to know about how to grow campanula from seed:

• Sow seeds on the surface of the soil—they need light to germinate.
• Soil temperature for germination: 65–68°F (18–20°C)
• Germination time: 14 to 21 days
• Transplant when seedlings are 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm) tall
• Keep seedlings cool: Below 72°F (22°C) at night and 82°F (28°C) during the day to prevent rosetting

Tip: Campanula can be finicky to start from seed. Ordering plugs from a reputable grower is a great option, especially if you’re short on time or space.

Need help starting seeds indoors? Check out How to Start Seeds Indoors.

When and Where to Plant Campanula

In warm climates, transplant outdoors in October or November. Campanula prefers full sun to part shade and grows best in well-drained soil with consistent moisture.

Knowing when to plant Canterbury bells is crucial. Fall planting gives the plants time to grow foliage during short, cool days. As days lengthen but stay cool, the plants begin to bloom, perfect timing for a beautiful spring show.

Find seasonal planting dates in the Flower Planting Guide available in my shop.

Campanula Spacing, Support, and Fertilizer

• Spacing: 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart for single stems; 9 inches (23 cm) if pinching or cutting low for additional side shoots.
• Support: These top-heavy blooms need flower support. Use plant support netting or decorative support rings. Learn more about using plant support netting in this guide.
• Fertilizer: Apply a flower fertilizer in early spring when new growth appears

I don’t usually pinch Campanula. Instead, I make a deep first cut on the center stem, which encourages multiple usable side shoots.

Campanula Harvesting and Vase Life

Harvest when the first two or three bells on a stem open. Cut low, just above the first set of side shoots, and strip the lower leaves from the stem.

Campanula is ethylene-sensitive, so using flower food and conditioning properly helps extend vase life to 7 to 14 days.

If you’re looking for inspiration, browse Quick and Easy Flower Arrangements from the Garden.

Quick Facts About Campanula

• Type: Cool-season hardy annual in warm zones
• Height: 24–48 inches (60–120 cm)
• Days to Bloom: 120–140 from transplant
• Sun: Full sun to part shade
• Water: Consistent moisture
• Bloom Colors: Lavender, pink, white, deep blue
• Attracts: Bees and pollinators

Campanula FAQ (Canterbury Bells)

1. Is Campanula a perennial or an annual?
Campanula can be either a perennial or a hardy annual, depending on the variety and climate. In warm climates like the low desert, it’s usually grown as a cool-season hardy annual.

2. When should I plant Campanula in warm climates like Arizona?
In warm regions, transplant Campanula outdoors in October or November. This gives it time to establish before blooming in spring.

3. Can I grow Campanula from seed?
Yes, but Campanula seeds require light to germinate and cool conditions to prevent rosetting. Start indoors 10–12 weeks before your first fall frost, or order plugs for easier success.

4. Why isn’t my Campanula blooming?
Campanula may fail to bloom if exposed to too much heat early on or if planted too late. It requires a cool period of growth before blooming in spring.

5. What are the best Campanula varieties for cut flowers?
The Champion series (‘Champion’, ‘Champion II’, and ‘Champion Pro’) are top choices for cut flowers due to their strong stems and long-lasting blooms.

6. How do I keep Campanula upright in the garden?
Use flower support netting or support rings to hold up the tall, top-heavy stems and prevent bending or breakage.

7. How long does Campanula last in a vase?
With proper harvesting and conditioning, Campanula can last 7 to 14 days in a vase. Use flower food and avoid ethylene exposure to extend vase life.

Final Thoughts

Campanula is one of my favorite cool-season flowers to grow. When you start early and give it the right conditions, it rewards you with tall, beautiful blooms that bring joy in the garden and in the vase.

More Resources on Cool-Season Flowers

Looking to expand your cool-season flower garden? These posts will help you choose and grow the right flowers for your space and season:

10 Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters — A list of reliable performers for warmer winter climates.

Cool-Season Flowers to Plant from Seed — A helpful guide if you are starting flowers from seed.

10 Easy-to-Grow Cool-Season Companion Plants — Learn which flowers support pollinators and vegetables in the garden.

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Campanula (Canterbury Bells) appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What is Arroyo Lupine?

This cool-season annual wildflower grows naturally in the Sonoran Desert uplands and across much of California. It thrives in open spaces like roadsides, hillsides, flats, and canyons. The genus Lupinus includes more than 650 species, with many found throughout North and South America. Arizona is home to 26 species of lupine, including several adapted to lower elevation gardens.

The name Lupinus comes from the Latin word for wolf, based on the old belief that lupines stole nutrients from the soil. In reality, they enrich it. Lupines work with beneficial fungi to pull nitrogen from the air into the soil, improving soil biology and helping nearby plants grow better.

Lupines are also important nectar sources for native bees and other pollinators. They serve as host plants for butterfly and moth larvae, making them a valuable addition to any insectary border or pollinator garden.

It does seem a little harder to get established at first, but once it finds a spot it likes, it drops plenty of seeds and comes back year after year.

How to Grow Arroyo Lupine

• Planting time: Sow seeds between October and November. Earlier plantings tend to grow larger and bloom more before heat arrives.
  
• Light: Full sun is best.
  
• Soil: Lupine tolerates poor soil.  Moisture during germination and early growth helps with growing Arroyo Lupine in Arizona, but they are drought-tolerant once established.
  
• Watering: Water every 7-10 days during dry spells in the cool season. Plants bloom until the weather heats up or the soil dries out.

I grew Arroyo Lupine from a wildflower mix the first time, and I’ve loved it ever since. If you’re just getting started, here’s my guide on how to grow wildflowers for more tips.

How to Plant Arroyo Lupine from Seed

Arroyo Lupine Care and Seed Saving Tips

As Arroyo Lupine finishes blooming, allow the flowers to mature and form seed pods. When the weather begins to warm and the plants start to dry out, gently pull them up and shake them over the soil to release seeds. This helps the plants reseed naturally and return the following season.

To collect seeds for saving, let the pods dry and turn brown on the plant. Before they curl and split open, cut them off and place them in a bucket or paper sack. As the pods continue to dry, they will release their seeds. The seeds will settle at the bottom of the container. Once they are fully dry, store them in a cool, dry place. You can replant them in the fall or share them as thoughtful seed gifts with other gardeners.

Where to Use It

Arroyo Lupine looks beautiful in wildflower gardens, desert meadows, or naturalized areas. Pair it with other spring bloomers like California poppies, desert bluebells, or globe mallow. See more options in this visual guide to Arizona annual flowers. It grows well in areas where reseeding is welcome and is one of the easiest native lupines for Arizona gardens.

This low-maintenance native plant brings color, pollinators, and long-term benefits to the garden. Learn about more annual and perennial plants that attract pollinators to choose the right mix for your space. If you’re planting this fall or winter, make room for Arroyo Lupine.

FAQs about Growing Arroyo Lupine

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The post How to Grow Arroyo Lupine: A Southwest Native Wildflower appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Also known as summer snapdragon, Angelonia is a beautiful, heat-tolerant plant that blooms reliably from late spring through fall. It’s a low-maintenance, long-blooming favorite that adds dependable color to any sunny spot.

What You’ll Learn in This Post:

• When to plant Angelonia in your region (and in hot climates)
• How to plant and care for Angelonia transplants
• Sun, soil, and watering needs
• Best garden design tips and plant companions
• Container growing tips for Angelonia
• Links to helpful flower-growing guides

Look for the “Hot Climate Tips” throughout the post for extra tips if you live in a hot climate

What Is Angelonia?

Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia), commonly called summer snapdragon, is a warm-season annual or tender perennial that thrives in full sun and high temperatures. The upright flower spikes resemble snapdragons, but unlike true snapdragons, Angelonia loves the heat.

These are often called summer snapdragons, but if you’re looking to grow the classic snapdragons that prefer cooler weather, check out my guide on how to grow snapdragons.

It’s available in a range of colors—white, pink, purple, blue, and bicolors—and grows 12 to 24 inches tall depending on the variety. The plants are self-cleaning (no deadheading!), attract pollinators, and resist deer and rabbits.

Angelonia can be grown as a perennial in frost-free areas or treated as an annual in other locations.

When to Plant Angelonia

Plant Angelonia after the danger of frost has passed and once the soil has warmed. In most areas, that’s mid-spring through early summer.

• Cooler zones (6–8): Late April through early June
• Warm zones (9–10): March through July
• Short growing season zones (3–5): After last frost; treat as annual

In the low desert (zones 9b–10a):
Plant Angelonia from March through July as transplants. Avoid planting during a heatwave. Earlier planting gives roots time to establish before the hottest part of summer.

Should You Start from Seeds or Transplants?

You can grow Angelonia from seed, but I usually pick up transplants instead. The seeds are tiny, need light to germinate, and take a couple of months to grow before they’re ready to plant out. Transplants are easy to find in spring and start blooming quickly, which makes them an easier option for most gardeners.

If you end up starting from seed, let me know if you give it a try. I haven’t started seeds for this one before.

Angelonia doesn’t mind transplanting and quickly fills in after planting. Choose healthy nursery plants with strong stems and avoid rootbound ones. (I gently pull out the plant and peek at the roots.)

Hot Climate Tip
Nurseries in hot climates often carry Angelonia as a spring and summer bedding plant. Look for it near other heat-tolerant options like vinca.

How to Plant Angelonia

Add angelonia to containers, raised beds or even in-ground areas. Here’s how to plant it:

1. Choose a location with full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily).
2. Amend the soil if needed for good drainage.
3. Dig a hole the same depth as the root ball and slightly wider.
4. Gently remove from the container and loosen roots if circling.
5. Place in the hole, backfill, and water well.

Spacing:

• 12–18 inches apart in beds
• One plant per 10–12 inch pot or grouped in larger containers

Optional: Pinch back the tips after planting to encourage bushier growth. This can set the plant back for several weeks from blooming, but you do end up with a bushier plant.

Light, Soil, and Water Requirements

Angelonia loves the sun. I’ve found it always does best in spots that get plenty of direct sunlight. Afternoon shade is nice, but not absolutely necessary. If the plant is well established, it tolerates afternoon sun.

Good drainage is important. If your soil tends to hold water, mix in compost to help loosen it up. I’ve had great success growing Angelonia in raised beds and containers filled with the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm.

Keep the soil evenly moist, especially right after planting. Once the plants are established, I let the top inch of soil dry out before watering again. Water at the base to keep the leaves dry and avoid any issues.

Hot Climate Tip
As summer heats up, check containers daily. Angelonia can handle heat, but not drying out. A thick layer of mulch helps conserve moisture.

Fertilizer and Maintenance

I usually add a little compost and worm castings when I plant Angelonia, and that’s often enough to keep it growing well. In containers, I’ll feed the plants once a month with a flower fertilizer if they start to look tired. Just don’t overdo it; too much nitrogen means more leaves and fewer flowers.

Angelonia is low-maintenance. You don’t need to deadhead it, which I love. The flowers just keep coming on their own. If the plants become a little leggy, I give them a quick trim. Cutting them back by about a third helps them bounce back with fresh growth and more blooms.

Hot Climate Tip
Hold off on cutting Angelonia back during the hottest part of the summer. Once nighttime temperatures start to drop, give the plants a good trim. This helps them bounce back with fresh growth and a beautiful flush of blooms in the fall.

They’re usually pest-free, but I keep an eye out for aphids or spider mites during really dry stretches. A quick spray with the hose usually does the trick.

Can Angelonia Survive Winter?

Angelonia is frost-sensitive. In warm zones, it may return from the roots if not killed by freezing temperatures.

Hot Climate Tip
If a freeze is expected, cover your plants overnight to protect them. Learn how to do this here:
How to Protect Plants from Freezing Temperatures

Garden Design Ideas and Companion Plants

Angelonia’s upright shape and long bloom time make it really easy to use in borders, beds, and containers.

Here are a few of my favorite ways to plant it:

• Tuck it into the middle of a flower bed, with smaller plants in front
• Use it as the “thriller” in a container garden to add height and color
• Plant several together in a sunny spot for a big, colorful statement

Great companions include:

• Vinca
• Verbena
• Zinnias
• Gomphrena
• Lantana
• Dusty miller
• Sweet potato vine

Growing Angelonia in Containers

Angelonia is a top choice for container gardening, especially on sunny patios or balconies.

Container tips:

• Use a pot at least 10–12 inches wide
• Ensure it has drainage holes
• Fill with quality potting mix.
• Fertilize monthly
• Water frequently in hot weather

Hot Climate Tip
To help with watering, I like to add an olla to my larger containers. It slowly releases water right at the roots, which keeps the soil more evenly moist. I use the ones from GrowOya, and they work really well for hot, dry conditions.

Learn more in: Container Gardening for Beginners

Want More Heat-Tolerant Flower Ideas?

Angelonia is one of many flowers that handle summer heat. For more inspiration, check out:

• 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers
• Arizona Annual Flowers Visual Guide

Final Thoughts on Growing Angelonia

Angelonia is a standout performer in warm-season gardens. It thrives in full sun, handles heat, and blooms continuously with little effort. It’s a reliable, colorful addition that deserves a spot in your garden.

The post How to Grow Angelonia (Summer Snapdragon) appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Whether you’re planting a cutting garden or just want to add a pop of color to your beds, here’s how to grow zinnias successfully—even in hot climates like mine.

What We’ll Cover:

• Choosing the best zinnia varieties
• When and how to plant zinnia seeds
• Zinnia care tips for healthy plants
• How to prune and harvest for more blooms
• Saving seeds for next season
• Frequently asked questions about growing zinnias

1. Start zinnia seeds indoors or in the garden

If you’ve tried nursery transplants and been disappointed, try growing zinnias from seed instead. Zinnias are easy to start from seed, and starting from seed gives you more control over the varieties you grow, whether you want tall stems for cutting or compact plants for borders.

Favorite Zinnia Varieties

Zinnias come in a wide range of shapes, sizes, and colors. Whether you’re filling vases or flower beds, here are some of my favorite types:

Tall varieties for cut flowers:

• Benary’s Giant – the cut flower standard, with large blooms and many colors
• Aurora – tall and showy with full, ruffled petals
• Queeny Lime – unique ombré shades in green, pink, and peach
• Ballerina – frilly blooms with great vase life
• Oklahoma series – smaller blooms than Benary’s, but long, strong stems and good vase life
• Queen series – shorter plants with mostly double blooms in soft, antique-looking colors like lime, peach, and blush
• Zowie Yellow Flame – Bright yellow and orange blooms, and a favorite of butterflies

Compact bedding types:

• Dreamland – full-size blooms on compact plants, great for small spaces, perfect for edging beds or growing in containers.
• Zahara series – low-growing and perfect for containers or borders

How to Plant Zinnia Seeds

Zinnias thrive in sunlight and warm soil. Plant seeds outside after the danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures are consistently above 60°F (16°C). Sow seeds ¼ inch deep and 6–12 inches apart, depending on the variety. For larger types, space 12–18 inches apart to ensure good air circulation.

To sow seeds indoors, poke the pointy end of the seed into moist seed-starting mix and cover it lightly with soil. Plant them in trays 4 weeks before your last frost date. Don’t let the seedlings become pot-bound. I like to transplant them when they are still young and only have a couple sets of leaves for the best results.

General planting window:

• Start seeds indoors: 4 weeks before your last frost
• Plant outside: After last frost and once soil is warm

In the low desert of Arizona:

• Start seeds indoors: February–May
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: March–July
• Zinnias bloom from April to November

Zinnias and Angelonia are two of my favorite flowers for nonstop summer blooms. Combine them for vibrant borders or container plantings. Here’s how to grow angelonia if you’d like to give it a try. Zinnias also grow well alongside flowers like gomphrena—learn how to grow gomphrena here.

2. Care for zinnias as they grow

Zinnias prefer well-draining, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Before planting, amend the soil with compost and worm castings. You can also add a granular flower fertilizer at planting, but zinnias don’t need much feeding during the season.

Hot Climate Tip: Once seedlings are several inches tall, add a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture and keep zinnias growing strong through the summer heat.

Zinnias don’t like to stay wet, especially on their leaves, which can lead to disease issues. Powdery mildew is a common problem, especially later in the season or in humid conditions. The best prevention is to space plants properly, avoid overhead watering, and keep the foliage dry. If powdery mildew appears, don’t worry—it’s treatable. Here’s how I manage powdery mildew in the garden.

Water deeply and consistently, but let the top inch or so of soil dry out slightly between waterings. Zinnias don’t like soggy conditions. Use drip irrigation or water at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry.

Hot Climate Tip: Smaller bedding varieties of can tolerate more sun. Larger varieties do best with afternoon shade.

Taller varieties may need staking, especially in gardens that experience strong winds or summer monsoons. Supporting the stems helps prevent breakage and keeps your blooms looking their best. Learn more in this guide to supporting cut flowers.

Zinnias pair beautifully with vegetables like cucumbers. See how to grow cucumbers with flowers and herbs.

3. Cut zinnias back when young for more blooms

Zinnias respond extremely well to pinching. Pinching encourages branching, which means more stems, more flowers, and stronger plants overall. I like to pinch about half of my seedlings when they reach 6 to 8 inches tall. This gives me a head start on blooms from the unpinched plants, while the pinched ones develop into bushier plants that produce more over time.

To pinch, use clean scissors or pruning shears to cut off the top several inches of the main stem just above a leaf node. This simple step encourages the plant to form multiple branches, each with the potential to bloom.

Even if you don’t pinch early, zinnias still branch naturally after harvesting. In fact, when you cut a bloom from an unpinched plant, it essentially acts as a pinch and encourages side shoots to develop from that point.

Hot Climate Tip: Take care when pinching zinnias during hot weather. Young plants are more vulnerable to stress and can burn or die back if pinched during extreme heat. For best results, pinch before planting them out and allow the plants to harden off naturally.

Learn more about this technique in my guide to pinching flowers for more blooms.

4. Harvest zinnias often to keep them blooming

How and when you harvest zinnias depends on the type you’re growing. Harvesting (or deadheading) is key to encouraging more blooms.

For Bedding Zinnias

Bedding varieties like Zahara and Dreamland are low-maintenance but benefit from regular grooming. Deadhead spent blooms by gently popping them off with your fingers. It’s not absolutely necessary, but it keeps plants tidier and encourages more blooms instead of seed production.

For Cut Flower Zinnias

When harvesting for cut flowers, timing is everything. Zinnias will not continue to open after being cut, so wait until the bloom is as open as you’d like—but before the small yellow florets (stamens) around the center begin to show. That’s a sign the bloom is starting to decline.

Use the “wiggle test” to check for stem maturity. Gently shake the stem—if it jostles or wiggles, it’s too early. Mature stems feel stiff and upright.

Hot Climate Tip: For the longest vase life, harvest zinnia blooms early in the morning. Harvesting during hot weather can reduce the quality and appearance of the flowers.

Use clean, sharp snips and make your cut low on the plant, at the base of the stem. This encourages new side shoots to develop, resulting in more stems and blooms throughout the season. Remove lower leaves promptly after harvesting.

Place freshly cut zinnias directly into clean water. Zinnias can last up to 10 days in a vase if properly conditioned. Dirty water can cause stem issues, so change the water every 1–2 days. Adding a florist chlorine tablet and floral preservative can extend vase life.

5. Save zinnia seeds each season

Saving seeds from zinnias is simple and rewarding. Here’s how:

1. Choose healthy blooms and allow them to dry completely on the plant.
2. Once the heads are brown and brittle, cut them off with clean scissors.
3. Let them dry further indoors for 1–2 weeks. I put them in a paper sack to continue drying.
4. Break apart the flower head to find the arrowhead-shaped seeds at the base of each petal.
5. Separate seeds from debris and let them air-dry for another day or two.
6. Store in a labeled paper envelope or jar in a cool, dry place.

Saving seeds lets you enjoy your favorite varieties again next year—and helps preserve their unique traits. Read more about how to save seeds here.

Hot Climate Tip: Leave one of the best early blooms on the plant to go to seed. As temperatures rise, seed development often declines, so saving early gives you the best chance at viable seeds.

Want another great cut flower? Learn how to grow strawflowers for dried and fresh arrangements.

Bonus: Combine zinnias with bold summer foliage

Zinnias look beautiful when paired with bold, textural foliage. I love adding Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus to my summer garden. Its deep burgundy leaves make zinnia colors pop. Learn how to grow Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus.

Zinnia Growing FAQs

Why don’t my zinnias get tall?
You may be growing a compact variety like Zahara or Dreamland. To grow tall zinnias for cut flowers, choose varieties like Aurora, Queeny Lime, or Ballerina, and be sure to grow them from seed.

Can I grow zinnias in containers?
Yes! Use compact varieties like Zahara and Dreamland, and choose a large container with good sunlight and well-draining soil.

Do zinnias reseed?
Yes, zinnias can reseed in the garden, especially if you leave a few spent flowers to dry and drop seed. However, hybrid varieties may not grow true to type.

Can zinnias survive extreme heat?
Zinnias are one of the best flowers for hot climates. With consistent watering and afternoon shade, they bloom through the hottest months. Explore more flowers that love the heat.

Want more flower inspiration? Explore the Arizona Annual Flowers Visual Guide or browse the Low Desert Flower Planting Guide.

If you enjoyed this post on how to grow zinnias, please share it. Growing zinnias has brought color, joy, and pollinators to my garden—and I hope they’ll do the same for yours.

The post How to Grow Zinnias in Heat: 5 Essential Tips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

When you see flats of vinca at nearly every nursery in Arizona, you know one thing—summer is right around the corner. This tough, sun-loving flower is practically synonymous with hot weather in the low desert. Once it’s planted, vinca blooms through the intense heat of summer and into the fall with very little effort. In fact, it’s one of the most reliable summer flowers I grow.

Vinca comes in a wide range of colors and types, from classic upright plants to trailing varieties and even micro-blooming forms. It’s frost sensitive, but in mild winters, it may return the following spring or reseed itself. You can start seeds indoors, but it’s usually not necessary. Transplants are widely available and easy to grow.

One of my favorite things about vinca is its incredible drought tolerance. I’ve had plants that looked completely dried up and done for, but after a deep soak, they bounced back and bloomed like nothing happened. It’s an ideal choice for low-maintenance beds and containers in hot summer gardens.

When to Plant Vinca

Vinca is a warm-season annual in most climates, but in mild-winter areas like the low desert of Arizona, it can sometimes perennialize.

• General Timing (Zones 8–11)
  • Start seeds indoors: January–May
  • Transplant outdoors: After danger of frost, typically March–July
  • Direct sowing: Possible once the soil is warm, but slower to establish
• Low Desert Planting Dates (Zone 9b)
  • Start seeds indoors: Late January-May
  • Transplant outdoors: March-July

Vinca seeds need warmth and light to germinate, making them a little tricky to start. Use bottom heat and avoid covering the seeds. Many gardeners prefer to purchase transplants. Vinca is widely available at local nurseries in spring and early summer.

For more heat-tolerant flowers, see 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them).

Growing Tips for Healthy Vinca

Vinca is generally pretty easy to grow, especially once it’s established. Here’s what it needs to do its best:

Sun: Full sun is ideal. You’ll get the most blooms when vinca gets plenty of direct light. Afternoon shade can help in extremely hot climates, but it’s not required. Plants may wilt a little in the heat of the day, but they often perk back up when the sun goes down.

Soil: Good drainage is essential. Vinca doesn’t like wet feet, so avoid heavy soils or containers without drainage holes.

Water: Water deeply, then let the top inch of soil dry out before watering again. Once it’s established, vinca is impressively drought-tolerant. I’ve seen plants that looked dried out bounce back after a good soak. It’s one of the reasons I plant it every summer.

Fertilizer: Totally optional. You can feed it with a balanced organic fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks if needed, but I usually don’t unless the plants start looking tired.

Spacing:

• Upright types: Space about 8 to 12 inches apart
• Trailing types: Give them more room—12 to 18 inches apart so they can spread and fill in

That’s really it. Vinca isn’t fussy, and it handles summer heat better than almost anything else in my garden.

Types of Vinca

Upright Vinca

Traditional bedding vinca grows in mounds and is ideal for garden beds and borders. It blooms steadily through the summer and fall. Pinch once or twice early on to encourage bushier growth.

Trailing Vinca

These varieties have a spreading, cascading habit that works beautifully in containers and as ground cover. They don’t need pinching and quickly fill in empty spaces.

Kawaii Vinca

This compact type features tiny blooms in unique colors like Coral, Blueberry Kiss, Peppermint, and Florida Blue. It’s perfect for containers and edges where smaller flowers can stand out. This type of vinca does best with afternoon shade.

For help identifying more flower types, visit the Arizona Annual Flowers Visual Guide.

Vinca in Containers and Favorite Pairings

Vinca shines in containers during the summer. Its tolerance for heat and drought makes it a dependable choice when many other flowers struggle.

To help vinca thrive in containers, especially in hot climates, add an olla (like a GrowOya). It provides consistent, deep watering—ideal for summer containers that dry out quickly.

Try pairing vinca with these heat-tolerant favorites:

• Kawaii vinca + portulaca or dwarf zinnias: Perfect for colorful pots. Get tips in How to Grow Zinnias.
• Trailing vinca + upright basil: A cascading effect that’s both beautiful and practical. Learn more in How to Grow Basil.
• Pink or lavender trailing vinca + dusty miller: The silver foliage adds a cool contrast to bright blooms.
• White vinca + white gomphrena: A stunning, long-lasting combo from summer through fall. See How to Grow Gomphrena.
• Vinca + angelonia: Heat-loving and low-maintenance, this pairing delivers continuous color all summer. Learn more in How to Grow Angelonia.

For more container ideas, check out Container Gardening for Beginners.

Why Vinca Might Struggle (and What to Do About It)

Although vinca is generally easy to grow, sometimes it just doesn’t thrive. If your plants are struggling, here are a few common reasons to consider:

• Root rot: Vinca doesn’t like wet feet. If the soil doesn’t drain well or is watered too frequently, roots can rot. Use well-draining soil, avoid overwatering, and let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings—especially in containers.
• Aphids or spider mites: These pests often show up during hot, dry spells. Rinse plants with a strong stream of water or use insecticidal soap if needed. Look under the leaves and along stems for signs of infestation. Learn more treatments for spider mites in this guide.
• Yellowing leaves: This can happen when soil stays soggy or air circulation is poor. Give plants enough space, improve airflow, and make sure containers aren’t sitting in saucers full of water.

Final Thoughts on How to Grow Vinca

Vinca is often overlooked because it’s so common, but there’s a reason it shows up at every nursery when summer hits. If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, heat-tolerant flower that thrives all summer, vinca is a top pick. Whether you plant upright types in garden beds or let trailing varieties spill from containers, vinca earns its spot as a dependable and hard-working flower in any hot climate garden.

Love growing vinca too?
If this post was helpful, share it with a friend or fellow gardener! You can also tag me @growinginthegarden on Instagram. I’d love to see how vinca is growing in your garden.

The post How to Grow Vinca in Arizona and Other Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Keeping bulbs in containers lets you enjoy the blooms without sacrificing space in your raised beds. It’s a simple solution when garden space is limited or already spoken for. And after blooming, when the leaves start to die back, containers make it easy to move the whole pot out of sight so the bulbs can recharge for next year, without the pressure to clean up “ugly” foliage in your main beds.

You also get more control over watering, since bulbs in containers aren’t tied to in-ground drip systems that might water too often or too little. Just a little planning, and you’ll have beautiful blooms, right where and when you want them.

Why Grow Bulbs in Containers?

Container gardening is a smart choice for low-desert gardeners. It solves a few common challenges:

• No need to give up valuable raised bed space.
• Easy to move pots into shade, out of view, or closer to enjoy.
• Bulbs can die back naturally after blooming without cluttering the main garden.
• Watering is completely in your control.
• Container soil warms up and drains faster.

What Do I Mean by “Bulbs”?

In gardening, the term “bulb” is often used as a general term for plants that grow from underground storage structures. These structures hold the energy the plant needs to grow and bloom, and while they function similarly, they aren’t all true bulbs.

Here are the main types included in this guide:

• True Bulbs – like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. These have layered scales (like an onion) and a flower bud inside.
• Corms – like ranunculus, freesia, and gladiolus.
• Rhizomes – like calla lilies and cannas. These grow horizontally just below the soil surface.
• Tubers – like dahlias. These are thickened underground stems with buds that sprout.

Even though they’re technically different, they’re all planted and cared for in similar ways, especially when grown in containers. So for simplicity, we refer to them all as “bulbs” throughout this post.

Good Bulbs to Grow in Containers

Some bulbs are better suited to container growing than others. Here are a few options to consider:

Best for one season (replant each year):

• Tulips
• Daffodils
• Ranunculus

These typically don’t return well in hot climates and are best treated as annuals.

Good for reusing in containers:

• Amaryllis
• Dutch Iris

With the right care, these bulbs can be reused year after year.

Not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index covers everything from tulips and ranunculus to garlic and onions—organized A–Z for easy browsing. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

Choosing the Right Container

Use a pot with good drainage. Avoid sealed-bottom containers unless you add holes.

Clay pots dry out faster, but breathe well. Plastic holds moisture longer. Either can work; just monitor the soil’s moisture levels.

Choose a container that is deep enough to allow for planting at two to three times the height of the bulb.

For planting details, spacing, and care tips, grab my Flower Planting Guide. A helpful reference for growing flowers and bulbs in the low desert.

If you’re planting bulbs seasonally, my Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar is a great tool to stay on track.

Potting Mix and Planting Tips

Use a light, well-draining potting mix. A blend of potting soil, compost, and perlite or coarse peat is ideal. Avoid heavy garden soil or fresh manure, which can cause rot.

Plant bulbs in clusters for a fuller look. Group by bloom time or height, or try layering different varieties in the same container to extend the display. After planting, water deeply to help roots get established.

Watering and Fertilizing

Bulbs don’t need frequent watering at first. Water thoroughly after planting, then adjust based on conditions:

• In full sun: water every 7–10 days.
• In shade: stretch to every 14–20 days.
• Let the top layer dry slightly between waterings.

Fertilize two or three times during the growing season using an organic fertilizer that’s low in nitrogen. Excessive nitrogen leads to excessive leafy growth and fewer blooms. This is the one I like to use.

After Blooming: What Comes Next?

Once your bulbs finish blooming:

• Deadhead spent blooms, but leave the foliage in place to die back naturally.
• Treat as annuals: Remove and compost bulbs after the leaves dry.
• Saving bulbs: Let leaves die back completely, then lift, clean, and store bulbs in a cool, dry spot until fall.
• Or leave in place: Some bulbs can stay in the pot if kept in a protected, shaded area with minimal summer water.
• If replanting the pot: Remove bulbs before switching to summer flowers to avoid rot.

Final Tips

Bulbs in containers are easy to love. They bring seasonal color without taking over your garden, and they’re easy to manage, even in the low desert. You don’t need much space, and you don’t have to compromise your garden beds to enjoy spring and summer blooms.

Try a few different types this season. Take notes on what works well in your space, and experiment with different combinations until you find your favorites.

Related Resources

• Arizona Bulb Planting Guide: Low Desert Flowering Bulbs
• Arizona Bulb Growing Guide
• Order Bulbs for Fall Planting
• Arizona Flower Planting Guide
• How to Grow Tulips in the Low Desert

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For in-depth planting details and bulb-specific timing, be sure to check out the full Arizona Bulb Planting Guide: Low Desert Flowering Bulbs

What we will cover in this bulb growing guide:

• What Do I Mean by “Bulbs”?
• Timing Is Everything: Don’t Plant Fall Bulbs Too Soon
• Quick Tips for Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert
• Flowering Bulbs That Grow Well in the Low Desert
• Bed Preparation and Location for Bulbs
• Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert
• Water and Fertilizer
• What to Do After Flowering: End-of-Season Bulb Care
• Can You Grow Tulips in Arizona?
• Final Thoughts and Resources to Learn More

What Do I Mean by “Bulbs”?

In gardening, the term “bulb” is often used as a catch-all for several types of underground storage structures that develop into flowering plants. While they all store energy and are planted similarly, they aren’t all true bulbs. Here’s a breakdown:

• True Bulbs (e.g., tulips, daffodils, hyacinths)
  Made up of layered scales (like an onion) with a central flower bud.
• Corms (e.g., gladiolus, freesia, ranunculus)
  Solid, swollen stem bases that store nutrients. Often replaced annually.
• Rhizomes (e.g., iris, canna lilies)
  Horizontal underground stems that produce roots and shoots at nodes.
• Tubers (e.g., dahlias)
  Thick, underground stems with growth points or “eyes” that sprout new plants.

In this guide, “bulbs” refers to all of these types, since they’re planted and cared for in similar ways in the low desert.

For help deciding what to plant, check out the Ultimate Plant Index. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

Timing Is Everything: Don’t Plant Fall Bulbs Too Soon

One of the most important things to understand about growing bulbs in the low desert is when to plant them. Most flowering bulbs require a period of cooler soil to develop strong roots before blooming. If planted when it’s too hot, bulbs may rot, dry out, or fail to sprout.

In the low desert, wait to plant fall bulbs until daytime temperatures are consistently below 90°F (32.2°C). For most areas, that means late October or even November, later than you might expect if you’re used to planting bulbs earlier in other climates.

Before planting, read this post on Ordering Bulbs for Fall Planting for recommended varieties and pre-chilling timelines tailored to desert gardeners.

Quick Tips for Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert

• Choose the right varieties. Look for bulbs that can handle our short winters and mild chill hours. Some bulbs, such as tulips and hyacinths, require pre-chilling before planting.
• Pre-chill when needed. Many spring-blooming bulbs benefit from being refrigerated for 6 to 10 weeks before planting. Store in a breathable paper bag, away from fruit (which releases ethylene gas that can damage the bulb).
• Prepare well-draining soil. Bulbs do not like soggy roots. Raised beds or amended garden soil with compost and perlite can help improve drainage. Learn how to improve desert soil in this Soil Guide for Raised Beds and Garden Beds.
• Plant at the correct depth. A general rule is that the depth should be 2–3 times the height of the bulb, but check specific requirements for accuracy.
• Water after planting, then sparingly. Too much water in warm soil can lead to rot. Once cooler weather arrives, regular winter rain and occasional watering are usually sufficient. For more guidance, read my Desert Watering Guide.

Flowering Bulbs That Grow Well in the Low Desert

Here are a few reliable options to try:

• Daffodils – One of the easiest bulbs to grow in the desert.
• Freesia – Fragrant and colorful, perfect for containers.
• Ranunculus – Stunning blooms, easy to grow.
• Iris – Many types do well here, especially bearded varieties.
• Calla Lilies & Cannas – Summer-blooming bulbs that thrive with enough water.
• Rain Lilies – Tolerant of hot, dry summers and rewarding after summer rains.

For planting details, spacing, and care tips, grab my Flower Planting Guide. A helpful reference for growing flowers and bulbs in the low desert.

If you’re planting bulbs seasonally, my Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar is a great tool to stay on track.

Bed Preparation and Location for Bulbs

Proper site selection and bed preparation are crucial to successful bulb growing in the low desert. Taking time to prep well will improve drainage, boost bloom quality, and help bulbs last longer in the soil.

Choosing the Right Location

• Full sun is best for most flowering bulbs during winter months, especially for strong blooming and compact growth. Some varieties tolerate partial shade, but flowering may be delayed.
• Avoid areas with tree or shrub roots, which will compete for water and nutrients.
• Stay away from caliche or hardpan. Bulbs need loose, well-draining soil to thrive.
• Watch for Bermuda grass. If it’s growing in your chosen area, try to eliminate it completely before planting.

Prepping the Bulb Bed

• Add organic matter. Southern Arizona soils benefit from generous amounts of organic amendments. Coarse peat moss or shredded bark improve water retention and provide a slightly acidifying effect that bulbs appreciate.
• Skip fresh manure. It can burn tender bulbs and encourage rot. Use only well-composted manure and apply it at least six weeks before planting.
• Improve drainage. In heavy clay or silt soils, mix in 1–2 inches of sand throughout the bed.
• Add phosphorus. Bulbs respond well to phosphorus for root and flower development. Apply bone meal according to package directions, and work it into the soil below the bulb planting depth.
• Mix amendments deeply. Incorporate all materials several inches below the planting zone so bulbs can access nutrients and benefit from improved soil texture where they’ll actually be growing.
• Flush salts before planting. After preparing the bed, water thoroughly with 3–4 inches of water to leach salts from the soil. Let the bed dry enough to be workable before planting.

Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert

Planting bulbs correctly sets them up for strong roots and beautiful blooms. Here are the key things to keep in mind when planting bulbs in desert gardens:

• Choose the right location. Bulbs need well-draining soil and perform best in full sun to partial shade. In shady areas, flowers may bloom a bit later, helping to extend the bloom season.
• Group by height. Since bulb plants vary in height, group taller varieties toward the back and shorter ones in front for the best display.
• Plant in clusters. Bulbs look more natural and full when planted in clumps, drifts, or groups, rather than in single rows.
• Depth matters. As a general rule, plant bulbs two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall. Check the Bulb Planting Guide for specific depths by variety.
• Pre-chill when necessary. Tulips, hyacinths, and other bulbs that require a cold period will perform better if chilled in the refrigerator (vegetable drawer) for 3–4 weeks before planting in late fall. Keep them away from fruit while chilling.
• Water thoroughly after planting. Soak the soil deeply right after planting to settle the bulbs and ensure moisture reaches the root zone. After that, water sparingly until green growth appears.
• Mulch to protect. Apply a layer of wood chips or other organic mulch to help conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.

Tip: Wait to plant fall bulbs until daytime highs stay below 90°F for the best results.

Water and Fertilizer

Once growth is underway, bulbs don’t need daily watering. In full sun, a deep watering every 7–10 days is usually enough. In shaded areas, you can often extend the interval to every 14–20 days. Be sure to water deeply each time so moisture reaches the entire root zone.

Fertilize bulbs two or three times during the growing season to support healthy growth and strong blooms. Choose an organic fertilizer that’s low in nitrogen—too much nitrogen encourages excess leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Look for a fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium to support blooming and bulb development. This is the one I like to use.

What to Do After Flowering: End-of-Season Bulb Care

Once your bulbs have finished blooming, how you care for them depends on your goals and your garden plans.

• Growing as annuals (like tulips)?
  After flowering, you can remove and compost the bulbs once the blooms fade. These are often treated as one-season plants in the low desert.
• Hoping for naturalization or regrowth?
  Deadhead spent flowers but leave the foliage in place. Let the leaves die back naturally to return energy to the bulb or corm. If they’re in a dry, well-drained area, many types can stay in the soil over summer with minimal water.
• Want to lift and replant next fall?
  Deadhead the blooms and allow the foliage to dry down fully. Once leaves are dry and before triple-digit temperatures arrive, carefully dig up the bulbs or corms. Mature bulbs will have tan to brown outer skins. Trim off dried roots and foliage, and store them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space—never in a sealed bag or airtight container.
• Need to reuse the space for summer flowers?
  Consider lifting the bulbs each spring. Prolonged summer moisture can lead to rot in many varieties. Lifting and storing help protect the bulbs and make room for warm-season planting.

Tip: Some bulbs may need chilling before replanting, especially those that require a cold period to bloom. Experiment in your own garden to see which varieties return reliably and which need extra care.

Can You Grow Tulips in Arizona?

Yes—but only with pre-chilling, and usually as an annual. Refrigerate tulip bulbs for 8–10 weeks, then plant when temperatures are under 90°F (32.2°C). Unfortunately, you can’t expect them to rebloom in our climate.

Learn how to grow tulips in hot climates in this guide.

Arizona bulb growing guide: final thoughts and a source to learn more

Bulbs are a rewarding way to add structure and color to your garden, but timing and temperature make all the difference. Wait until it cools off, choose the right varieties, and plant with care, and your garden will reward you with beautiful blooms in the months ahead.

Source:
Cooperative Extension (Publication No. 0382). Bulbs for Southern Arizona. The University of Arizona, College of Agriculture, Tucson, Arizona 85721.

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Use this Arizona Bulb Planting Guide to learn when to plant, whether to chill bulbs beforehand, and how to give each type the best chance of thriving. While some bulbs can naturalize and return each year, others are best grown as annuals in this climate.

Flowering bulbs bring seasonal beauty, structure, and color to gardens and containers. Whether you’re planting spring-blooming daffodils and freesia or summer standouts like calla lilies and cannas, bulbs can offer dependable blooms year after year—or a stunning one-season show in the low desert’s unique climate.

For detailed tips on timing, soil preparation, and caring for bulbs in our climate, visit the Arizona Bulb Growing Guide: How to Grow Bulbs in the Low Desert. And if you want to enjoy flowering bulbs on your patio or in small spaces, check out this guide to growing bulbs in containers in hot climates.

The low desert includes elevations below 3,500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

Click on a bulb name to go directly to that bulb in the Arizona Bulb Planting Guide

A Note About “Bulbs”

Although this is called a bulb planting guide, it includes a variety of underground plant structures, not just true bulbs. These include:

• True bulbs (like tulips and daffodils)
• Corms (like ranunculus and freesia)
• Rhizomes (like iris and canna lilies)
• Tubers (like dahlias)

While technically different, they’re all planted and cared for in similar ways in the low desert, so they’re grouped together here for simplicity.

Ready to grow your skills? Sign up for one of my gardening classes taught online and in person.

Allium

When to plant Allium in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: October – November

How to grow Allium:

• Grows best from bulb
• Days from seed to bloom: 120 -150 days
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Allow foliage to die back naturally to feed the bulb. Great for pollinators and striking in garden borders.

Amaryllis

When to plant Amaryllis in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: March and October – November

How to grow Amaryllis:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 40 – 70
• Months in bloom: November – March
• Good to know: Tender perennial. Often grown indoors in pots. Needs bright, indirect light. After blooming, allow leaves to grow and feed the bulb for next season. Can be stored dormant and rebloomed yearly.

Anemone

When to plant Anemone in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: October – November

How to grow Anemone:

• Grows best from corms – soak corms for 2-3 hours before planting
• Days from seed to bloom: 80 – 100
• Months in bloom: February – April
• Good to know: Cool-season bloomer. Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Great for cut flowers. Plant successively every few weeks for extended blooms. Dies back in summer heat but corms can be dug up and stored or left to attempt to naturalize.

Read this article for more information about how to grow anemones. 

Calla Lily

When to plant Calla Lily in Arizona:

Plant rhizomes outside: October – November

How to grow Calla Lily:

• Grows best from rhizomes
• Days from seed to bloom: 60 – 90
• Months in bloom: May – July
• Good to know: Tender perennial. Prefers partial shade in hot climates and moist, well-drained soil. Can be grown in containers.

Canna

When to plant Canna:

Plant rhizomes outside: March

How to grow Canna:

• Grows best from rhizomes
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 100
• Months in bloom: May – October
• Good to know: Warm-season perennial. Thrives in full sun and rich, moist soil. Great for tropical-looking gardens. Can be grown in containers. Cut back after frost; rhizomes may overwinter in mild areas.

Dahlia

When to plant Dahlia:

Plant tubers outside: February – April

How to grow Dahlia:

• Grows best from tubers
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 100
• Months in bloom: July – October
• Good to know: Warm-season perennial grown as an annual in many areas. Thrives in full sun and rich, well-drained soil. Excellent for cut flowers and garden borders. Lift and store tubers after frost in colder climates.

Daffodil

When to plant Daffodil in Arizona:

Plant bulbs: October – November

How to grow Daffodil:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 120
• Months in bloom: February – April
• Good to know: Cool-season perennial. Prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Allow foliage to die back naturally to feed bulbs for next year. Deer and rodent-resistant. May naturalize.

Freesia

When to plant Freesia in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: October – November

How to grow Freesia:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 100 – 120
• Good to know: Fragrant. Prefers full morning sun and afternoon shade. Needs cool nights to thrive. Can be grown indoors. Toxic to pets if ingested. Excellent for cut flowers.

Gladiolus

When to plant Gladiolus in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: November – January

How to grow Gladiolus:

• Grows best from corms
• Days from seed to bloom: 70 – 100
• Good to know: Water deeply but infrequently. Can struggle in extreme summer heat—plant early to avoid peak temps.

Grape Hyacinth

When to plant Grape Hyacinth in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: October

How to grow Grape Hyacinth:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 120
• Months in bloom: February – March
• Good to know: Requires winter chill—chill bulbs in fridge for 6–8 weeks before planting if needed.

Hyacinth

When to plant Hyacinth in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: January – February

How to grow Hyacinth:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 110
• Months in bloom: February – March
• Good to know: Treat as annual in warm climates like the low desert. Prefers full sun to part shade. Very fragrant. Great in containers. May irritate skin—wear gloves when handling bulbs.

Iris

When to plant Iris in Arizona:

Plant rhizomes outside: October – November

How to grow Iris:

• Grows best from rhizomes
• Days from seed to bloom: 150 – 200
• Months in bloom: March – April
• Good to know: Water deeply but infrequently once established. Allow rhizomes to be partially exposed—don’t bury deeply. Divide clumps every 3–4 years for best flowering. Drought-tolerant.

Rain Lily

When to plant Rain Lilies in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: March – June

How to grow Rain Lilies:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 60 – 90
• Months in bloom: July – September
• Good to know: Blooms after rain. Prefers full sun to light shade. Tolerates heat and drought. Great in borders or containers. Dormant in dry spells. Toxic if ingested. Low-maintenance.

Ranunculus

When to plant Ranunculus in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: October – November and February – March

How to grow Ranunculus:

• Grows best from corms – (Presprout corms if planting in February – March)
• Days from planting to bloom: 90-120
• Months in bloom: February – May
• Good to know: Plant the corms 6” apart and 2” deep with the claw side down. Excellent cut flower.  Typically flowers for 4 to 6 weeks. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow ranunculus. 

Saffron Crocus

When to plant Saffron Crocus in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: September 15 – October

How to grow Saffron Crocus:

• Grows best from corms
• Days from seed to bloom: 40 – 60
• Months in bloom: October – November
• Good to know: Harvest saffron threads from flowers within 1–2 days of opening. Requires full sun and well-drained soil. Very drought-tolerant. Goes dormant in summer. Plant 3–4 inches deep.

Read this article for more information on how to grow saffron crocus.

Tulip

When to plant Tulips in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: November – December

How to grow Tulips:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 110
• Months in bloom: February – March
• Good to know: Plant in full sun. Treat as annuals in warm climates. Great in containers or beds. Allow foliage to die back naturally. Toxic if ingested.

Read this article for more information on how to grow tulips.

Helpful resources for growing flowering bulbs in the low desert:

Want to give your bulbs the best chance to bloom in the desert? These resources offer helpful guidance for successful planting, care, and planning:

• Flower Gardening Basics
  Ideal for beginners. This article includes information on soil preparation, light requirements, and watering, all essential for bulb success.
• Low Desert Flower Planting Guide
  Use the Arizona Bulb Planting Guide in conjunction to time companion plantings and understand what other plants grow well seasonally.
• 10 Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters
  Many spring-blooming bulbs are planted in fall. This guide offers complementary cool-season ideas.
• Order Bulbs for Fall Planting
  A must-read before ordering! Includes recommended bulb types and instructions on when and how to order in the desert.
• Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar
  This resource can help with timing, especially for bulbs planted annually.
• Flower Planting Guide
  A great complement to the Arizona Bulb Planting Guide, especially for spacing and growing tips for mixed beds.

Need help selecting what to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

Explore More Planting Guides for the Low Desert

Looking for more help planning your Arizona garden? These visual guides are designed specifically for low desert gardeners:

• Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide – Learn when and how to plant colorful blooms that thrive in our unique climate.
• Arizona Fruit Planting Guide – A visual guide to help you grow everything from citrus to berries.
• Arizona Herb Planting Guide – Discover how to grow flavor-packed herbs year-round.
• Arizona Vine Planting Guide – Add vertical interest and shade with flowering and edible vines.
• Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide – Find the best planting times and tips for nearly 75 vegetables.

Each guide includes detailed planting tips, spacing information, and seasonal advice tailored for growing in Arizona’s low desert.

Gardening in the desert comes with unique challenges, but you do not have to figure it out alone. My Desert Gardening page is a landing page that links to all my desert gardening resources. From monthly planting schedules to strategies for summer survival and winter frost protection, it is designed to help your garden thrive year-round.

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With over 100 flowers in the “Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide,” I’m sure you’ll find one to try. Arizona’s seasons are short, and timing is critical when planting. Use this Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide to learn when to plant and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Helpful Resources for Growing Flowers in the Low Desert

Whether you’re just getting started or looking to expand your flower garden, these resources will help you grow flowers successfully in Arizona’s unique climate:

• Flower Gardening Basics
  A great starting point for beginners—covers soil prep, light needs, watering, and more.
• Low Desert Flower Planting Guide
  Month-by-month planting guidance specifically for the low desert.
• 10 Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters
  Tried-and-true flowers that thrive during Arizona’s cooler months.
• Cool-Season Flowers to Plant from Seed
  Easy, direct-sow flowers for fall and winter planting.
• Cool-Season Hardy Annual Flowers
  Learn which hardy annuals to plant early for beautiful spring blooms.
• 10 Easiest Fall Flowers in Arizona
  Perfect for beginning gardeners—low-maintenance blooms that perform well in fall.
• 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers and How to Grow Them
  Heat-tolerant blooms that thrive through Arizona summers.
• How to Grow Wildflowers in the Desert
  Planting wildflowers? This guide covers timing, prep, and tips for success.
• Growing and Using Edible Flowers
  Learn which blooms are edible and how to grow them organically.
• How to Pinch Flowers for More Blooms
  A simple technique that leads to bushier plants and more flowers.
• Plant Support Netting for Cut Flowers
  How and when to use support netting to keep your cut flowers tall and straight.
• Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar
  A perpetual calendar to help you know what flowers to plant and when.
• Flower Planting Guide
  Detailed spacing, sowing tips, and plant notes for nearly 100 types of flowers.
• How to Grow Bulbs in Containers in Hot Climates
  Tips for choosing, planting, and caring for bulbs in containers when gardening in warm regions.

Need help selecting which flower to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

Take your gardening skills to the next level with my gardening classes. Whether online or in person, these lessons dive into seasonal planting, raised bed design, soil health, and the unique challenges of gardening in the low desert—giving you the knowledge to grow with success.

Click on a flower name to go directly to that flower:

Would you like the low-desert planting dates for flowers in a convenient calendar?

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

African Daisy (Dimorphotheca sinuata)

When to plant African Daisies in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – November
*does best directly sown in garden

How to grow African Daisies: 

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: January – April
• Good to know: Reseeds readily; some consider it invasive. When plants die back, shake seeds onto the ground after pulling plants to encourage reseeding the following year. 

Ageratum (Floss Flower)

When to plant Ageratum in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – November
Plant transplants outside: October- January

How to grow Ageratum:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: February – May
• Good to know: Prefers rich soil. Needs regular water. Easy to grow. Comes in many colors. Attracts pollinators. 

Allium

When to plant Allium in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: October – November

How to grow Allium:

• Grows best from bulb
• Days from seed to bloom: 120 -150 days
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Allow foliage to die back naturally to feed the bulb. Great for pollinators and striking in garden borders.

(Sweet) Alyssum

When to plant Alyssum in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – March

How to grow Alyssum:

• Grows best from seed or transplant 
• When to plant alyssum in Arizona: October – March 
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: Late October – May
• Good to know: If planted from seed, thin seedlings. Easy to grow. Grows well in sun or part shade. Reseeds easily. 

This article shares more information about how to grow alyssum.

Amaryllis

When to plant Amaryllis in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: March and October – November

How to grow Amaryllis:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 40 – 70
• Months in bloom: November – March
• Good to know: Tender perennial. Often grown indoors in pots. Needs bright, indirect light. After blooming, allow leaves to grow and feed the bulb for next season. Can be stored dormant and rebloomed yearly.

Ammi (Queen Anne’s Lace)

When to plant Ammi in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: September – October
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Ammi:

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 65 – 90
• Months in bloom: March – early May
• Good to know: Can be invasive. Will reseed readily. Deadhead before seeds form on flower. Good cut flower and vase filler. 

Anemone

When to plant Anemone in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: October – November

How to grow Anemone:

• Grows best from corms – soak corms for 2-3 hours before planting
• Days from seed to bloom: 80 – 100
• Months in bloom: February – April
• Good to know: Cool-season bloomer. Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Great for cut flowers. Plant successively every few weeks for extended blooms. Dies back in summer heat but corms can be dug up and stored or left to attempt to naturalize.

Angelonia

When to plant Angelonia in Arizona:

Plant transplants outside: March – July

How to grow Angelonia:

• Months in bloom: Nearly all year if frost free 
• Good to know: Angelonia is a tough plant that provides excellent color in the heat of low desert Arizona summers. Needs regular water; let established plants dry out a little between watering. Cover if there is a freeze. If plants do not freeze, they will provide year-round color. Divide established plants, and plant in other areas of the yard.

Read this article for more information about how to grow angelonia.

Arroyo Lupine

When to plant Arroyo Lupine in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – November

How to grow Arroyo Lupine:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 90-120
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Southwest native. Attracts pollinators. Fall sowing recommended. May self-seed. Drought-tolerant once established.

Read this article for more information about how to grow arroyo lupine.

Aster

When to plant Aster in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – September
Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Aster:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: March – April
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Attracts butterflies. Can be difficult to grow from seed. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Baby’s Breath

When to plant Baby’s Breath in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – October
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September – December

How to grow Baby’s Breath:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 160
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Dries well.

Bee Balm

When to plant Bee Balm in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – March

How to grow Bee Balm:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 75
• Months in bloom: Late April – early July
• Good to know: Can be difficult to grow. Attracts beneficial insects and pollinators. Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona.

Begonia

When to plant Begonias in Arizona:

Plant transplants outside: September – November

How to grow Begonia: 

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: January – December
• Good to know: Needs shade and regular water to grow well. 

Bells of Ireland

When to plant Bells of Ireland in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September – November
*does best directly sown in garden

How to grow Bells of Ireland:

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Good cut flower. 18″-24″ high.

Bigelow’s Purple Aster

When to plant Bigelow’s Purple Aster in Arizona:

October – November

How to grow Bigelow’s Purple Aster: 

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: October – November and March – May
• Good to know: Attracts butterflies. Wildflower. Reseeds. Easy to grow. 

Calendula

When to plant Calendula in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – September
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Calendula:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 100
• Months in bloom: December – May
• Good to know: Edible, medicinal uses. Reseeds easily. Early bloomer. Often grown as a trap crop for aphids. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow calendula.

Calla Lily

When to plant Calla Lily in Arizona:

Plant rhizomes outside: October – November

How to grow Calla Lily:

• Grows best from rhizomes
• Days from seed to bloom: 60 – 90
• Months in bloom: May – July
• Good to know: Tender perennial. Prefers partial shade in hot climates and moist, well-drained soil. Can be grown in containers.

Campanula (Bellflower)

When to plant Campanula in Arizona:

Plant seeds indoors: August – September
Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Campanula:

• Days from seed to bloom: 70 – 90
• Months in bloom: March – June
• Good to know: Cool season hardy annual. Dies back when it gets hot. Grown as an annual. Prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Attracts pollinators.

Read this article for more information about how to grow campanula.

Canna

When to plant Canna:

Plant rhizomes outside: March

How to grow Canna:

• Grows best from rhizomes
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 100
• Months in bloom: May – October
• Good to know: Warm-season perennial. Thrives in full sun and rich, moist soil. Great for tropical-looking gardens. Can be grown in containers. Cut back after frost; rhizomes may overwinter in mild areas.

Carnation

When to plant Carnations in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – November
Plant transplants outside: October – January

How to grow Carnations:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: October – April
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Good cut flower. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Considered a perennial flower but is often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona. 

Celosia

When to plant Celosia in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: February – April
Plant transplants outside: April – June 15

How to grow Celosia:

• Grows best from seed (started indoors if possible) or transplant (do not let transplants become root-bound) 
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: July – November
• Good to know: Attracts pollinators and birds. Comes in several colors. It can be tricky to grow.

Chamomile

When to plant Chamomile in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant transplants outside: October – March

How to grow Chamomile:

• Grows best from transplant
• Keep flowers cut back to encourage more production.
• Chamomile grows well with most other herbs and vegetables. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow chamomile.

Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide: A visual guide for low desert annual flowers (continued)

Chrysanthemum

When to plant Chrysanthemums in Arizona:

Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Chrysanthemums:

• Grows best from transplant
• Purchase transplants that have not bloomed yet.
• After blooming, remove spent blooms to encourage a second flush of color.
• Make sure container or garden bed has good drainage; mums can rot easily.

Clarkia

When to plant Clarkia in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – October
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Clarkia:

• Grows best from transplants 
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Easy to grow. Needs regular water. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Coleus

When to plant Coleus in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – April
Plant transplants outside: March – June 15

How to grow Coleus:

• Grows best from transplant
• Months in bloom: July – November
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Needs regular water and part sun or shady conditions to thrive.

Coreopsis

When to plant Coreopsis in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – March and August – September
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – May and October – November

How to grow Coreopsis:

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 30-60
• Months in bloom:  April – September
• Good to know: Wildflower; reseeds easily. Thin seedlings. Good cut flower. 

Cornflower (Bachelor’s Button)

When to plant Cornflowers in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Cornflowers:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: February – June
• Good to know: Reseeds easily. Good cut flower. Many colors are available. Easy to grow. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow cornflowers.

Cosmos

When to plant Cosmos in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March – June

How to grow Cosmos:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: July – November
• Good to know: Wildflower, reseeds easily. Good cut flower. Cutting central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Cosmos (Sulfur)

When to plant Sulfur Cosmos in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: May – July

How to grow Sulfur Cosmos:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: September – November
• Good to know: Reseeds easily. Taller plants may need support. Needs regular water. 

Creeping Zinnia

When to plant Creeping Zinnia in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – February
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – April

How to grow Creeping Zinnia:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: February – early May
• Good to know: Attracts butterflies. Reseeds.

Daffodil

When to plant Daffodil in Arizona:

Plant bulbs: October – November

How to grow Daffodil:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 120
• Months in bloom: February – April
• Good to know: Cool-season perennial. Prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. Allow foliage to die back naturally to feed bulbs for next year. Deer- and rodent-resistant. May naturalize.

Dahlia

When to plant Dahlias in Arizona:

Plant tubers: February – April

How to grow Dahlias:

• Days from planting tuber to bloom: 45 – 60
• Months in bloom: April – June 
• Good to know: Needs regular water and part sun to do well. Excellent cut flower. Often treated as an annual in the low desert.

Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide: A visual guide for low desert annual flowers (continued)

Delphinium

When to plant Delphinium in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – September
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Delphinium:

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – May

Desert Milkweed

When to plant Desert Milkweed in Arizona:

Plant transplants outside: February – March and October – November

How to grow Desert Milkweed:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 120
• Months in bloom: May – October
• Good to know: Native perennial. Extremely drought-tolerant and thrives in full sun and poor soil. Attracts monarchs and other pollinators. Minimal maintenance once established. Milky sap can irritate skin—handle with care.

Dianthus (Sweet William)

When to plant Dianthus in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – November
Plant transplants outside: September – January

How to grow Dianthus:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: October – April
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Edible. Comes in many colors. 

Dusty Miller

When to plant Dusty Miller in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – March and August – September
Plant transplants outside: March – May and October – November

How to grow Dusty Miller:

• Grows best from transplant
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Tender perennial in Zones 8-10. Excellent filler foliage in flower arrangements.

Echinacea (Purple Coneflower)

When to plant Echinacea in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – September
Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Echinacea:

• Grows best from transplant (Echinacea often blooms in the second year, and seeds need cold weather to germinate) 
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: April – June
• Good to know: Attracts wildlife. Needs regular water. Good cut flower. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

English Daisy

When to plant English Daisies in Arizona:

Plant transplants outside: October – March

How to grow English Daisies:

• Grows best from transplant
• Months in bloom: January – May
• Good to know: The flower petals fold up at night and open again with the sun. Prefers shade. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Evening Primrose

When to plant Evening Primrose in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – September
Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Evening Primrose:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: March – June
• Good to know: Attracts wildlife. Can be invasive.

Feverfew

When to plant Feverfew in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: October – February
Plant transplants outside: December – April

How to grow Feverfew:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 100
• Good to know: Excellent cut flower. Prefers light, well-drained, moist, and fertile soil. 6.0-7.2 pH preferred.

Flax

When to plant Flax in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: Sept. 15 – November 15

How to grow Flax:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: January – early May
• Good to know: Considered perennial flower. Scarlet and blue varieties. Wildflower; reseeds easily. 

Forget-me-not

When to plant Forget-me-nots in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September – December

How to grow Forget-me-nots:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Wildflower; reseeds easily. Does best in part sun. 

Four O’Clock

When to plant Four O’Clocks in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: March – June

How to grow Four O’Clock:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 90
• Months in bloom: July – November
• Good to know: Poisonous. Flowers open mid-afternoon. Reseeds. Needs afternoon shade. Attracts squash bugs.

Read this article for more information about how to grow four o’clocks.

Foxglove (Digitalis)

When to plant Foxgloves in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – August
Plant transplants outside: September – October

How to grow Foxglove:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know:  Difficult to grow. Poisonous. Needs regular water and part sun. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow foxglove.

Freesia

When to plant Freesia in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: October – November

How to grow Freesia:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 100 – 120
• Good to know: Fragrant. Prefers full morning sun and afternoon shade. Needs cool nights to thrive. Can be grown indoors. Toxic to pets if ingested. Excellent for cut flowers.

Gaillardia (Blanket Flower)

When to plant Gaillardia in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – February
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – November and January – April

How to grow Gaillardia:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – early November
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Wildflower. Reseeds easily. Good cut flower. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Gazania

When to plant Gazanias in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – February
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – November and February – April

How to grow Gazanias:

• Days from seed to bloom: 30-60
• Months in bloom: Late October – June
• Good to know: Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona. 

Geranium

When to plant Geraniums in Arizona:

Plant transplants outside: September – April

How to grow Geraniums:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: February – June
• Good to know: Remove flowers for the first few weeks to allow the plant to get established. Keep dead-headed for better blooms. Does best with regular water and 4-6 hours of sun. 
• Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona. 

Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide: A visual guide for low desert annual flowers (continued)

Gladiolus

When to plant Gladiolus in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: November – January

How to grow Gladiolus:

• Grows best from corms
• Days from seed to bloom: 70 – 100
• Good to know: Water deeply but infrequently. Can struggle in extreme summer heat—plant early to avoid peak temps.

Globe Mallow

When to plant Globe Mallow in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – November

How to grow Globe Mallow:

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: February – early July
• Good to know: Wildflower, reseeds easily. Attracts birds and pollinators. Easy to grow.

Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth)

When to plant Gomphrena in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – May
Plant transplants outside: March – July 15

How to grow Gomphrena:

• Grows best from transplant 
• Days from seed to bloom: 100
• Months in bloom: April – September
• Good to know: Different varieties: trailing and more compact types. Good cut flower. Excellent for drying. Cutting central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Heat tolerant. Easy to grow. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow gomphrena.

Grape Hyacinth

When to plant Grape Hyacinth in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: October

How to grow Grape Hyacinth:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 120
• Months in bloom: February – March
• Good to know: Requires winter chill—chill bulbs in fridge for 6–8 weeks before planting if needed.

Hollyhock

When to plant Hollyhocks in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – March

How to grow Hollyhocks:

• Grows best from seed, can also be grown from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: Depends on variety
• Months in bloom: April – June
• Good to know: Many hollyhocks are biennials that grow strong root systems and foliage the first year. In the second year, they send up flowering shoots that produce seeds and then die.

This article shares more information about how to grow hollyhocks. 

Hyacinth

When to plant Hyacinth in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: January – February

How to grow Hyacinth:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 110
• Months in bloom: February – March
• Good to know: Treat as annual in warm climates like the low desert. Prefers full sun to part shade. Very fragrant. Great in containers. May irritate skin—wear gloves when handling bulbs.

Impatiens

When to plant Impatiens in Arizona:

Plant seeds or transplants outside: April – May

How to grow Impatiens:

• Grows best from transplants
• Days from seed to bloom: 90
• Months in bloom: late July – November
• One of few blooming plants that grow in the shade.

Iris

When to plant Iris in Arizona:

Plant rhizomes outside: October – November

How to grow Iris:

• Grows best from rhizomes
• Days from seed to bloom: 150 – 200
• Months in bloom: March – April
• Good to know: Water deeply but infrequently once established. Allow rhizomes to be partially exposed—don’t bury deeply. Divide clumps every 3–4 years for best flowering. Drought-tolerant.

Larkspur

When to plant Larkspur in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – January

How to grow Larkspur:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Wildflower; reseeds heavily. Several colors. Easy to grow. Attracts hummingbirds.

Linaria (Toadflax)

When to plant Linaria in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – November 15

How to grow Linaria:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: March – April
• Good to know: Wildflower, reseeds. Easy to grow. Many colors. 

Lisianthus

When to plant Lisianthus in Arizona:

Plant transplants outside: February – May

How to grow Lisianthus:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from transplant to bloom: 60-90
• Months in bloom: April – November
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Heat tolerant. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow lisianthus. 

Lobelia

When to plant Lobelia in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – October
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – December

How to grow Lobelia:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – early June
• Good to know: Prefers part sun. Needs regular water. Wait until hot temperatures subside to plant transplants.

Read this article for more information about how to grow lobelia.

Lupine

When to plant Lupine in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – November

How to grow Lupine:

• Grows best from seed
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: Late February – April
• Good to know: Can be tricky to grow. Once they find a spot they like, will often reseed each year.

Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus

When to plant Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus in Arizona:

Plant seeds indoors: January – March
Plant transplants outside: March – May

How to grow Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 75 – 90
• Months in bloom: August – October
• Good to know: Grown for striking burgundy foliage. Loves full sun and heat. Not frost-tolerant. Water regularly. Can be pinched for bushier growth.

Read this article for more information on how to grow mahogany splendor hibiscus.

Marigold

When to plant Marigolds in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – April and August – September
Plant seeds outside: February – May and September – October
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – May and September – October

How to grow Marigolds:

• Grows best from seed or transplants
• Days from seed to bloom: 30-60
• Months in bloom: Late September – December and March – June
• Good to know: Good companion plant in the garden. Reseeds easily. Easy to grow. Needs regular water. Cutting central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

This article shares more information about how to grow marigolds.

Nasturtium

When to plant Nasturtium in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – January

How to grow Nasturtiums:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: February – May
• Good to know: Edible. Good companion and trap crop. Overly-rich soil results in fewer blooms. Reseeds readily. 

This article shares more information about how to grow nasturtiums.

Nigella (Love-in-a-mist)

When to plant Nigella in Arizona:

Plant seeds indoors: August – February
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – March

How to grow Nigella:

• Days from seed to bloom: 65 – 75
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Cool-season annual. Prefers full sun. Reseeds easily. Drought-tolerant once established. Unique seed pods great for dried arrangements. Non-toxic. Best performance in fall or very early spring plantings.

Ornamental Cabbage

When to plant Ornamental Cabbage in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – October
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – December

How to grow Ornamental Cabbage:

• Grows best from transplant
• Months “in bloom“: Late September – March
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Needs regular water. Tolerates part shade.

Ornamental Kale

When to plant Ornamental Kale in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – October
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – December

How to grow Ornamental Kale:

• Grows best from transplant
• Months “in bloom“: Late September – March
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Needs regular water. Tolerates part shade.

Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide: A visual guide for low desert annual flowers (continued)

Painted Daisy

When to plant Painted Daisies in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – November 15

How to grow Painted Daisies:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: Late March – May
• Good to know: Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Medium difficulty to grow. Needs regular water. Good cut flower. 

Penstemon

When to plant Penstemon in Arizona:

Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Penstemon:

• Grows best from
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 120
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Native-friendly perennial. Loves full sun and well-drained soil. Drought-tolerant once established. Attracts hummingbirds. Avoid overwatering. Cut back after bloom to encourage rebloom or maintain shape.

Petunia

When to plant Petunias in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – January
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – March

How to grow Petunias:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: October – early May
• Good to know: Pinch off flowers when first planted to encourage root development. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Easy to grow. Needs regular watering. 

Phlox

When to plant Phlox in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: September 15 – November 15

How to grow Phlox:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Needs regular water. Easy to grow. Cut back stems after flowering. Different varieties have varying heights and colors. 

Poppy

When to plant Poppies in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: October – December

How to grow Poppies:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 120-150 
• Months in bloom: March – early May
• Good to know: Many different varieties (California, Shirley, Iceland). Reseeds easily. Seed pods are beautiful. Needs regular water. Easy to grow. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow poppies. 

Portulaca (Moss Rose)

When to plant Portulaca in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – April
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – June

How to grow Portulaca:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: Late February – October
• Good to know: Edible. Water the plant only when the top of the soil is dry. Needs well-drained soil. Good for containers or rock gardens. Pinch back to encourage new growth.

Purslane

When to plant Purslane in Arizona:

Plant seeds or transplants outside: February – August

How to grow Purslane:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden, can also be grown from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Good to know: Although purslane is often considered a weed, it is edible and highly nutritious.

Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide: A visual guide for low desert annual flowers (continued)

Rain Lily

When to plant Rain Lilies in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: March – June

How to grow Rain Lilies:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 60 – 90
• Months in bloom: July – September
• Good to know: Blooms after rain. Prefers full sun to light shade. Tolerates heat and drought. Great in borders or containers. Dormant in dry spells. Toxic if ingested. Low-maintenance.

Ranunculus

When to plant Ranunculus in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: October – November and February – March

How to grow Ranunculus:

• Grows best from corms – (Presprout corms if planting in February – March)
• Days from planting to bloom: 90-120
• Months in bloom: February – May
• Good to know: Plant the corms 6” apart and 2” deep with the claw side down. Excellent cut flower.  Typically flowers for 4 to 6 weeks. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow ranunculus. 

Ratibida (Mexican Hat)

When to plant Ratibida (Mexican Hat in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – September
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Mexican Hat:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: April – Early September
• Good to know: Wildflower; often reseeds. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Rudbeckia (Black-Eyed Susan)

When to plant Rudbeckia (Black-Eyed Susan) in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – March

How to grow Rudbeckia (Black-Eyed Susan):

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: July – September
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Easy to grow. Wildflower; often reseeds. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow rudbeckia. 

Safflower

When to plant Safflower in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: February – March

How to grow Safflower:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 90
• Months in bloom: Late April – June
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Easy to grow. Attracts wildlife.

Saffron Crocus

When to plant Saffron Crocus in Arizona:

Plant corms outside: September 15 – October

How to grow Saffron Crocus:

• Grows best from corms
• Days from seed to bloom: 40 – 60
• Months in bloom: October – November
• Good to know: Harvest saffron threads from flowers within 1–2 days of opening. Requires full sun and well-drained soil. Very drought-tolerant. Goes dormant in summer. Plant 3–4 inches deep.

Read this article for more information on how to grow saffron crocus.

Salpiglossis

When to plant Salpiglossis (Painted Tongue) in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – September
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Salpiglossis (Painted Tongue):

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – early June
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Difficult to grow.

Salvia

When to plant Salvia in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – March and July – August
Plant transplants outside: March – May and September 15 – October

How to grow Salvia:

• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: April – early December
• Good to know: Reseeds. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. Several colors and varieties. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms.

Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower)

When to plant Scabiosa in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – September
Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Scabiosa:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: April – August
• Good to know: Can be tricky to grow from seed, start transplants if available. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information on how to grow scabiosa.

Shasta Daisy

When to plant Shasta Daisies in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – September
Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Shasta Daisies:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 180
• Months in bloom: April – July
• Good to know: Needs regular water. Good cut flower. Attracts butterflies. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms.

Read this article for more information about how to grow shasta daisies.

Snapdragon

When to plant Snapdragons in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: July – December
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – February 15

How to grow Snapdragon:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 30-60
• Months in bloom: November – early June
• Good to know: Attracts bees and butterflies. One of the easiest cool-season flowers to grow. Cutting central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information on how to grow snapdragons.

Statice

When to plant Statice in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – September
Plant transplants outside: October – November

How to grow Statice:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – August
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Dries well. Several colors are available.

Read this article for more information about how to grow statice. 

Stock

When to plant Stock in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – November
Plant transplants outside: October – January

How to grow Stock:

• Grows best from transplants or seeds 
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Cutting central stem early (on most varieties) produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Needs regular water. Easy to grow. Fragrant. 

Strawflower

When to plant Strawflowers in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – December
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February

How to grow Strawflowers:

• Grows best from transplants or seeds 
• Days from seed to bloom: 150
• Months in bloom: March – September
• Good to know: Cutting central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms.  Good cut flower. Excellent for drying.

This article shares more information about how to grow strawflowers. 

Sunflower

When to plant Sunflowers in Arizona:

Plant seeds outside: February – August

How to grow Sunflowers:

• Grows best from seed directly sown in garden
• Days from seed to bloom: 90
• Months in bloom: May – November
• Good to know: Start seeds in trays if birds are a problem. Easy to grow. Try single-stem and branching varieties. Good cut flower. Attracts birds and pollinators. 

This article shares more information about how to grow sunflowers. 

Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide: A visual guide for low desert annual flowers (continued)

Sweet Peas

When to plant Sweet Peas in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: September – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February

How to grow Sweet Peas:

• Days from seed to bloom: 120 
• Months in bloom: February to early May
• Good to know: Doesn’t like being pot bound; if starting indoors, transplant as soon as possible. Prefers rich soil. Needs regular water. Provide support or trellis for growing plants. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow sweet peas.

Tithonia (Mexican Sunflower)

When to plant Tithonia in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – March
Plant seeds or transplants outside: February – May

How to grow Tithonia:

• Grows best from seed 
• Days from seed to bloom: 120 
• Months in bloom: July to early December
• Good to know: Easy to grow heat-loving and drought tolerant flower. Does well in full sun. Plants grow large – provide plenty of room. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow tithonia (Mexican sunflower)

Toothache Plant (Acmelia Oleracea)

When to plant Toothache Plant in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – February
Plant seeds or transplants outside: February – April

How to grow Toothache Plant:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 60-90
• Good to know: Spilanthes is a heat-loving flower commonly called “toothache plant” due to the numbing sensation experienced after eating the leaves or more especially, the flowers.

Read this article for more information about how to grow toothache plant.

Tulip

When to plant Tulips in Arizona:

Plant bulbs outside: November – December

How to grow Tulips:

• Grows best from bulbs
• Days from seed to bloom: 90 – 110
• Months in bloom: February – March
• Good to know: Plant in full sun. Treat as annuals in warm climates. Great in containers or beds. Allow foliage to die back naturally. Toxic if ingested.

Read this article for more information on how to grow tulips.

Verbena

When to plant Verbena in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: June – August
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – November

How to grow Verbena:

• Grows best from transplants
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: March – September 
• Good to know: Easy to grow. Needs regular water. Wildflower types will often reseed. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow verbena.

Vinca

When to plant Vinca in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: January – May
Plant transplants outside: March – July

How to grow Vinca:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: April – October
• Good to know: Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Tolerates hot conditions. Needs regular watering. Often reseeds. Look for trailing varieties for containers. Cutting central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Easy to grow. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow vinca.

Violet (Viola, Pansy)

When to plant Violets in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – November
Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – January

How to grow Violets:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 120
• Months in bloom: March – May
• Good to know: Edible. Reseeds. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow violets.

Wild Hyssop

When to plant Wild Hyssop in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: December – January
Plant seeds or transplants outside: February – March

How to grow Wild Hyssop:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 90-210
• Months in bloom: June – September
• Good to know: Needs regular water. Attracts wildlife. Afternoon shade preferred.

Yarrow

When to plant Yarrow in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January
Plant transplants outside: October – March

How to grow Yarrow:

• Grows best from transplant
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: May – August
• Good to know: Good cut flower. Attracts butterflies. Wildflower.

Zinnia

When to plant Zinnias in Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: February – May
Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – July

How to grow Zinnias in Arizona:

• Grows best from seed or transplant 
• Days from seed to bloom: 30
• Months in bloom: April – November
• Good to know: Attracts butterflies. Good cut flower. Do not get leaves wet. Easy to grow. Cutting central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Grows well in full sun. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms.

Read this article for more information about how to grow zinnias. 

Looking for more planting date information? The Fruit Planting Guide, Bulb Growing Guide, Vegetable Planting Guide, Vine Planting Guide, and Herb Planting Guide are full of helpful details about when to plant here in the low desert of Arizona.

Want to learn more about how to grow annual flowers?

Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert – This guide, published by the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office, was a valuable resource as I’ve learned to grow flowers in the low desert. I also used it as a reference in the Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Guide. 

If you found this Arizona annual flower planting guide helpful, please share it.

The post Arizona Annual Flowers: A Visual Guide for Low-Desert Flowers appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The key is choosing the right varieties and planting them at the right time. Many traditional summer flowers struggle in extreme heat, especially in hot-climate regions like the low desert of Arizona.

These are my go-to flowers for hot summers. They’re tough, reliable, and bloom beautifully even as the temperatures climb. Every photo in this post is from my own summer garden here in Arizona. I’ve included planting tips and timing tailored specifically for low-desert gardeners.

Want help growing flowers all year long? My Flower Planting Guide includes timing, spacing, and growing tips for each season so you’ll always know what to plant and when—no matter the weather.

Flowers that Love The Heat #1 Zinnias: (Zinnia elegans)

How to plant zinnias

• Plant in full to part sun in soil amended with compost
• Zinnias do best when started from seed or transplanted into the garden when very young. 
• Does not require additional feeding 

When to plant zinnias

• Start seeds indoors from February through May for an early start
• Plant from seed or transplant outside from March through July
• Blooms from April to November

Tips for growing zinnias

• Needs regular watering
• Leaves do not like getting wet; they will burn
• Remove spent flowers to encourage production 

Good to know

• Easy to grow
• Attracts bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and beneficial insects
• Makes an excellent cut flower 
• Try several different varieties 

This article provides additional information on how to grow zinnias.

Flowers that Love Hot Summers #2: Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globose)

How to plant globe amaranth

• Plant in full sun to part sun
• Plant globe amaranth from seed or starts
• Space rows 6″-12″ apart

When to plant globe amaranth

• Start indoors from seed from January through May
• Plant transplants outside from March through the middle of July
• Blooms from April to October

Tips for growing globe amaranth

• Grows well in containers
• Very heat tolerant
• Tolerates full sun, drought, and neglect 

Good to know

• Attracts bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and beneficial insects
• Good for dried arrangements
• Once dried, it remains the same color

This article provides additional information on how to grow gomphrena.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Flowers that Love Hot Summers #3: Vinca (Periwinkle)

How to plant vinca

• Plant in areas with full sun to shade
• Space plants 12″-15″  apart
• Vinca is typically planted from transplant

When to plant vinca

• Start seeds indoors from January through May
• Plant transplants outside from March through July
• Blooms from April through October

Tips for growing vinca

• Pinch blooms for fuller plants
• Needs regular water
• If plant dries out, water it well and it may recover

Good to know

• Reseeds easily
• Plant trailing varieties in containers
• Abundant blooms
• Tolerates neglect 

This article provides additional information on how to grow vinca.

Flowers that Love Hot Summers #4: Sunflowers

How to plant sunflowers

• Space small blooms 6″ apart, the largest blooms need 3′
• Likes full sun
• Sow sunflower seeds directly into the soil

When to plant sunflowers

• Plant seeds outside from February through August
• Blooms from April through October

Tips for growing sunflowers

• Tolerates poor soil, but better soil = better blooms
• Smaller-sized blooms can be grown in containers
• Look for branching varieties and single-stem varieties

Good to know

• Makes a great trellis for other plants
• Attracts birds and other wildlife
• Edible seeds
• Excellent cut flower

This article provides additional information on growing sunflowers.

Hot Summer Flower #5: Lisianthus

How to plant Lisianthus

• Buy transplants or plugs; seeds can be very challenging to grow from.
• Likes full sun; afternoon shade is ok in hot climates

When to plant Lisianthus

• Plant transplants outside from February through May
• Flowers from May through November 

Tips for growing lisianthus

• Tall plants may need support
• After the first flush of blooms, cut the stems back all the way to the rosette. 
• Planting it early in the season gives lisianthus plenty of time to become established before the summer heat in hot climate areas.

Good to know

• Lisianthus prefers moist but not soggy soil.
• Lisianthus benefits from rich soil and regular feeding from a flower fertilizer.
• Shorter varieties can be grown in containers

This article provides additional information on growing lisianthus.

Heat-Loving Flower #6: Blue Salvia

How to plant blue salvia

• Plant in flower beds and containers, and along borders
• Plant from transplants

When to plant blue salvia

• Start seeds indoors from July through August and January through March
• Plant transplants outside from September 15 through October and again from March through May
• Blooms from April through December

Tips for growing blue salvia

• Let blue salvia dry out between waterings
• Cut back spent blooms to encourage more blooms

Good to know

• Drought tolerant
• Blooms all summer long
• Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds
• Reseeds easily
• Dies back in frost but often returns – cut back in spring 

Hot Summer Flower #7: Red Salvia

How to plant red salvia

• Red Salvia prefers afternoon shade in the heat of the summer
• Plant in flower beds and containers, and along borders
• Plant from transplants

When to plant red salvia

• Start seeds indoors from August through September and January through March
• Plant transplants outside from September 15 through October and March through May
• Blooms from April through December

Tips for growing red salvia

• Let red salvia dry out a little between waterings
• Cut back spent blooms to encourage branching and more blooms

Good to know

• Drought tolerant
• Blooms all summer long
• Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds
• Reseeds easily
• Dies back in frost but often returns – cut back in spring

Hot Summer Flower #8: Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)

How to plant rudbeckia

• Prefers afternoon shade
• Blooms all summer long
• Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds
• Reseeds easily
• Dies back in the frost but often returns – cut back in spring

When to plant rudbeckia

• Start seeds indoors from August through January
• Plant seeds or transplants outside from October through March
• Blooms June through October

Tips for growing rudbeckia

• Deadhead often during the season to encourage blooms
• Leave blooms on the plant and the end of the season to reseed, or remove spent blooms if you don’t want the plant to spread
• Shorter varieties grow well in containers

Good to know

• Avoid overhead watering to prevent mildew
• Thin seedlings to about a foot apart

This article provides additional information on how to grow rudbeckia.

Heat-Loving Flower #9: Angelonia (Summer Snapdragon)

How to plant angelonia

• Typically planted from transplant
• Prefers hot, sunny summer locations
• Likes moist, well-drained soil 
• Plant in flowerbeds, borders, and containers
• Allow 1′-2′ between plants

When to plant angelonia

• Plant transplants outside after the danger of frost has passed (March – July)
• Blooms all summer long
• Possible to grow year-round

Tips for growing angelonia

• Grows well in containers
• Likes occasional feedings with an all-purpose fertilizer
• Cut back dead or dying stems to encourage blooms
• Cover if there is a danger of frost 

Good to know

• Tolerates brief dry spells
• Flowers all summer long
• Attracts butterflies and bees
• Low-maintenance
• It comes in several colors 
• It can be grown from seeds or cuttings

This article provides additional information on how to grow angelonia.

Heat-Loving Flower #10: Four O’Clocks

How to plant four o’clocks

• Does best started from seed 
• Tolerates full sun, also grows in partial shade
• Excellent border flower, and in containers

When to plant four o’clocks

• Plant seeds outside from March through June
• Blooms from July through November

Tips for growing four o’clocks

• Feeding throughout the growing season will encourage more blooms, but isn’t necessary
• Reseeds easily and comes back year after year 
• Collect and save seeds

Good to know

• May attract squash bugs
• All parts of the plant (including seeds) are toxic

This article shares more information about how to grow four o’clocks.

Looking for more ideas? Other hot weather-tolerant bloomers include:

Summer Balsam, Basil, Begonia, Celosia, Coleus, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Dahlias, Desert Marigold, Desert Milkweed, Gaillardia, Impatiens, Mexican Hat, Portulaca, Purslane, Sage, Statice, Strawflower, Tithonia (Mexican Sunflower), Verbena, Wild Hyssop

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on flowers, herbs, vegetables, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

Are you ready to plant summer flowers? Check out what to plant in June in Arizona, including heat-tolerant flowers for more ideas.

Want more ideas for summer gardening in hot climates?

If you’re looking to add even more beauty and resilience to your garden, these resources will help you choose the right flowers and vegetables—and give you the tools to help them thrive in the heat:

• Arizona Annual Flowers: Visual Guide
• Vegetables That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• 10 Ways to Prepare Your Hot-Climate Garden for Summer
• 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive the Summer Heat
• Summer Gardening in Arizona: What You Need to Know
• Surviving a Heatwave: Gardening in High Heat

Whether you’re planting heat-tolerant flowers, choosing vegetables that thrive in hot summers, or getting your garden ready for triple-digit days, these posts are full of tips to help you grow confidently—even in extreme heat.

If you enjoyed this post about flowers that grow well during hot summers, please share it.

The post Flowers That Love Hot Summers: Top Ten Picks appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Why I Love Growing Mahogany Splendor

I’ve grown Mahogany Splendor for several years, and it continues to impress me. This year, when my roselle hibiscus didn’t survive the frost, Mahogany Splendor did—and came back strong and beautiful in the spring. It thrives in the intense sun and heat of my low-desert Arizona garden, never missing a beat even during the hottest months. The flowers are a lovely bonus, but the real star is the deep burgundy foliage that holds up beautifully all summer long.

Whether you’re using it in arrangements or enjoying it in the landscape, this hibiscus is stunning.

When to Plant Mahogany Splendor

Mahogany Splendor is a tender perennial, grown as an annual in most areas. It thrives in full sun and warm soil.

In the low desert of Arizona:
Start seeds indoors from January through March, and transplant outdoors from March through May, once the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed.

In other zones:
Sow indoors 6–8 weeks before your last frost date. Transplant after frost danger has passed. This plant needs heat to thrive, so wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C).

Growing Conditions and Care

• Height: 3 to 6 feet (90 to 180 cm)
• Spacing: 24 to 36 inches (60 to 90 cm). I plant 1 per 3 squares in my square foot garden.
• Sunlight: Full sun for richest color (partial sun results in green to rust-colored foliage).
• Days to maturity: 115 to 130 days
• Soil: Moist, well-draining soil with high organic matter; pH 5.8 to 6.5.
• Water: Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy. Allow the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Can it grow near ponds if it doesn’t tolerate wet soil?
Yes, but with caution. Mahogany Splendor does well near pond edges or in areas with brief, shallow moisture as long as the soil drains well. It does not tolerate standing water or consistently saturated conditions, which can lead to root rot.

Harvesting Tips for Cut Foliage & Companion Plants

This plant shines as a cut flower filler, especially in late summer and fall bouquets.

• Harvest when stems are mature, straight, and slightly woody.
• Cut at the base of the stem to encourage regrowth.
• Combines beautifully with zinnias and gomphrena for heat-tolerant, long-lasting arrangements.

Read more here: How to Grow Zinnias
Read more here: How to Grow Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth)
Read more here: Quick and Easy Cut Flower Arrangements

Want more flower ideas that don’t mind the heat? Read more here: Top Heat-Loving Flowers for Your Summer Garden

Extra Tips for Success

• Pinching: Optional, but encourages bushier growth and longer stems.
• Staking: May be needed in windy areas or as plants mature.
• Pests and diseases: Generally pest-free. Avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot.

Similar Plants and Growing Conditions

Mahogany Splendor is in the same plant family as okra and roselle hibiscus and shares similar growing preferences. If you’ve grown either of those, this hibiscus will feel familiar.

Read more here: How to Grow Okra in Arizona
Read more here: How to Grow Roselle Hibiscus

Need Help Planning Your Flower Garden?

This plant is included in my comprehensive flower planting guide. If you’re gardening in a hot climate and want to grow flowers that thrive, this guide is for you.

Read more here: Arizona Flower Planting Guide

Let me know if you add Mahogany Splendor to your garden—I’d love to hear how it does for you.

The post How to Grow Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Lisianthus is now a summer staple in my low desert Arizona garden. Learn how to grow lisianthus with these ten tips.

Article Index:

1. Plant lisianthus from plugs or transplants
2. Grow different varieties of lisianthus
3. Plant lisianthus at the right time
4. Give lisianthus the type of soil it needs to grow well
5. Choose a location with plenty of sunlight
6. Water and feed lisianthus correctly
7. Provide support for tall lisianthus stems
8. Encourage more blooms
9. Maximize vase life for lisianthus blooms
10. Grow lisianthus as a perennial if you live in a warm climate

1. Plant lisianthus from plugs or transplants

• Lisianthus is tricky for seasoned nursery professionals to grow well from seed. Leave the sowing to the experts and purchase transplants or plugs. Local growers, nurseries, and online retailers may all sell lisianthus starts. Look for plugs or transplants with buds beginning to grow to ensure flowers are on their way.
• Space lisianthus transplants about 4 inches apart. Most lisianthus plants grow tall, and spacing plants closely help them support one another as they grow. Transplant plugs and transplants a little higher than soil level to avoid stem rot.
• Keep lisianthus transplants well-watered for at least two weeks. Do not allow it to dry out.
• For square foot gardening, plant up to 8 lisianthus per square. Wider spacing yields larger plants.

2. Grow different varieties of lisianthus

• Lisianthus varieties vary in height and color.
• If you are growing lisianthus in containers, choose shorter varieties.
• Longer-stemmed types of lisianthus will require staking or netting to stay upright.
• Typical colors for lisianthus are cool tones of purple and pink.
• Blooms are typically single or double types.
• Choose a variety you enjoy and that suits your needs.

3. Plant lisianthus at the right time

Transplants need 2-3 weeks of cool soil during transplant to prevent “rosetting.” Plant after your area’s last frost date.

In the low desert of Arizona, plant lisianthus from February to May. Planting as early as possible in the season may yield a better result.

Planting it early in the season gives lisianthus plenty of time to establish before summer heat in hot climate areas. If you plant later in the season, provide shade for new transplants until they are established.

4. Give lisianthus the type of soil it needs to grow well

Lisianthus prefers neutral or even slightly acidic soil. Soil that is too alkaline will cause yellow leaves and overall poor health. Aim for a pH between 6.5 and 7.0.

Plant lisianthus in well-draining, rich soil with plenty of compost and organic matter. Raised beds are a good choice for growing lisianthus.

5. Choose a location with plenty of sunlight

Lisianthus is native to prairies and fields in the southern United States and Mexico and prefers warm, dry air. Cool humid locations may have difficulty growing lisianthus.

Choose an area in your garden to plant lisianthus that gets full sun. Lisianthus benefits from some afternoon shade if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona.

6. Water and feed lisianthus correctly

• Lisianthus prefers moist but not soggy soil.
• Avoid getting water on the leaves. Using a drip system is an effective way to water lisianthus.
• If fungus gnats are an issue, let the top inch of soil dry out a bit between waterings.
• Mulching soil will help retain moisture and keep weeds down.
• Lisianthus benefits from rich soil and regular feeding from a flower fertilizer that is higher in phosphorus than nitrogen (the middle number in the N-P-K formula is higher than the first number).

7. Provide support for tall lisianthus stems

Lisianthus plants grow quite tall, and staking them individually can be tedious. Enter trellis netting – a flower farmer’s idea for vertical gardening you can add to your garden. Get more details about how to use and install trellis netting for cut flowers in this guide.

• Use pole supports in each corner and stretch the net between the poles. I used this trellis netting from Amazon.
• The netting is held taught between the four stakes.
• Cut off the excess netting.
• The flowers grow up and are supported by the netting.
• For taller flowers, use two layers of netting several inches apart.

8. Encourage more blooms

Pinching back lisianthus transplants results in smaller stems but more blooms. Unpinched stems will be longer.

Remove the first bud/flower. This saves resources for the later flowers.

After the first flush of blooms, cut the stems back. Water and fertilize well to encourage an additional flush of blooms. This results in a more uniform set of second blooms. 

For a less drastic approach and continual blooms, deadhead spent blooms by cutting each bloom back to where it emerges from two sets of leaves. Plants should continue to send up flower stalks while temperatures are warm.

9. Maximize vase life for lisianthus blooms

• Harvest blooms in the morning when temperatures are coolest.  
• Remove the first flower and harvest the stem once the second set of flowers is open. The remaining blooms will open in the vase.
• Use sharp scissors or pruners to cut the stem just above the base of the plant. 
• Strip all leaves below the water level in the vase. 
• Recut stems before adding them to the vase. 
• Replace water in the vase every few days as needed.

10. Grow lisianthus as a perennial if you live in a warm climate

This heat-loving flower grows well as an annual in most zones. However, lisianthus is a short-lived perennial and can be overwintered in warmer zones (zones 8-10). 

To grow lisianthus as a perennial, cut back plants after the last blooms fade in the fall and mulch well with straw. Cooler zones may use row cover to prevent lisianthus from dying. New growth will emerge in the spring.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Looking for more information about how to grow flowers?

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If you haven’t started growing your own lavender yet, I highly recommend taking a look at my posts on How to Grow Lavender and How to Choose the Best Lavender Variety. These guides will set you up for success—especially if you’re gardening in hot summer climates.

When & How to Harvest Lavender

• Harvest when the first few flowers on the buds on a stem have opened. This sweet spot captures peak fragrance and oil content.
• Snip your lavender after the dew evaporates but before the midday sun intensifies.
• Use clean scissors or pruners, cutting just above the leafy part of the stem. (Avoid the woody, brown section.)

Drying & Storing Lavender

• Tie small handfuls of stems with twine or rubber bands and hang them upside down in a dry, shady area.
• Too much light can bleach the blooms and reduce their natural oils.
• In arid climates, lavender may dry in as little as a week. The stems should snap easily when fully dried.
• Once it’s dry, store buds in airtight containers away from bright light to preserve color and scent for up to a year.

Favorite Ways to Use Lavender

Culinary Uses:

• Herbes de Provence: Blend dried lavender with rosemary, thyme, oregano, and marjoram for a classic French seasoning.
• Lavender Sugar or Syrup: Infuse sugar or simple syrup for lemonade, cocktails, baked goods, or ice cream.
• Sweet vs. Savory: Royal Velvet and other English types are ideal for desserts; lavandins like ‘Provence’ are great in savory dishes.

If you love adding a floral touch to recipes, be sure to check out my post on growing and using edible flowers – it’s full of ideas for adding blossoms to your dishes.

Relaxation & Self-Care:

• Create small sachets or eye pillows to enjoy that soothing aroma at bedtime. These are the bags I use from Amazon.
• If you use essential oils, add a drop or two of lavender or a headache salve to your bath.

Craft Projects:

• Lavender Loofah Soap: This is my personal favorite! It’s a fun way to combine homegrown lavender with dried loofah slices. If you want more ideas for working with loofahs, read this post about What to Do with Loofah.
• You can also find more DIY inspiration (like making holiday gifts) in Gifts from the Garden: Homegrown Holiday Ideas.

Share the Love

• Neighbor Gifts: Giving small bags of dried lavender is a sweet gesture if you’re short on time. Or, check out Neighbor Gifts: Wildflower Seed Packets for another quick, garden-inspired idea.

Experiment with different varieties, harvest times, and creative uses—you’ll quickly see why lavender remains a beloved herb for cooks, crafters, and gardeners alike.

The post Harvesting, Drying, and Using Lavender appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If you live in a desert region like Arizona, you’ll need a heat-tolerant lavender that can handle blazing sun. If your climate is more temperate, you’ll have a wider range of options. Either way, success starts with picking the right variety. Yes, you can grow lavender in a place as hot as Arizona—you just have to choose wisely. Let’s get to it!

Article Index:

• Lavender 101: The Main Types
• Matching Lavender to Your Zone
• Best Lavenders for Hot Climates
• What to Expect When Growing Lavender in Hot Climates
• Final Tips for Choosing Lavender

Lavender 101: The Main Types

English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

• Best for: Cooler climates, USDA zones 5–8 (some varieties hardy to zone 4).
• Key Traits: Classic “true” lavender aroma, typically used in perfumes and culinary recipes. English lavender cultivars like ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’ are known for their deep purple flowers and strong fragrance.
• Climate Tips: Prefers moderate summers and tolerates chilly winters. In hot areas, it may need afternoon shade to avoid heat stress.

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

• Best for: Warm, dry climates (zones 7–9).
• Key Traits: Distinctive “rabbit ear” bracts atop the flower heads; blooms heavily in spring.
• Climate Tips: Thrives in Mediterranean-like conditions—mild winters, hot/dry summers. Generally less cold-hardy than English types.

French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)

• Best for: Mild winter regions (zones 8–9), including low desert areas if given some summer shade.
• Key Traits: Serrated (“toothed”) leaves, subtle but pleasant fragrance. Often blooms nearly year-round in frost-free regions.
• Climate Tips: Frost-sensitive below ~15 °F; does well with well-drained soil and moderate watering.

Lavandin Hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia)

• Best for: A wide range of zones (roughly 5–9).
• Key Traits: Hybrids of English and spike lavender; typically larger plants, very fragrant. Common examples include ‘Provence,’ ‘Grosso,’ and ‘Phenomenal.’
• Climate Tips: More heat-tolerant than pure English lavender and moderately cold-hardy. Ideal for regions with hot summers and moderate winters.

Matching Lavender to Your Zone

• Cool Climates (Zones 3–5)
  Look for extra-hardy L. angustifolia varieties (e.g., ‘Munstead’ or ‘SuperBlue’). Provide winter mulch and ensure excellent drainage to prevent root rot in snow and freezing temps.
  
• Moderate Climates (Zones 6–8)
  You have the greatest choice—English, French, Spanish, and Lavandin all can thrive. Focus on your personal preference for flower style (e.g., “bunny ears” on Spanish) and scent (English tends to be sweet, and Lavandin often has a sharper fragrance).
  
• Hot, Dry Climates (Zones 9–10)
  Spanish lavender, French lavender, and Lavandin hybrids are your best bet—particularly if you have mild winters. These types tolerate intense sun, alkaline soils, and lower water conditions well. Provide afternoon shade if summer temps soar above 100 °F.

Best Lavenders for Hot Climates

Here are some of the best lavender varieties for hot climates, including desert regions like Arizona. These varieties can handle intense sun, high temperatures, and dry conditions while still producing beautiful, fragrant blooms.

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

• Why it thrives in heat: Native to the Mediterranean, this variety loves warm, dry conditions.
• What makes it unique: Recognizable by its “rabbit ear” bracts on top of deep purple flowers.
• Best for: Hot, arid regions with mild winters (Zones 7–9).
• Care tip: Tolerates full sun but benefits from occasional deadheading to extend blooming.

French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)

• Why it thrives in heat: Handles long, hot summers and mild winters better than English lavender.
• What makes it unique: Soft, gray-green leaves with a serrated edge and a slightly different scent.
• Best for: Zones 8–9, especially areas with alkaline soil and minimal frost. Excellent landscape plant. My top choice for lavender here in the low desert.
• Care tip: Blooms for extended periods in warm climates; prune lightly to maintain shape.

Lavandin ‘Provence’ (Lavandula x intermedia ‘Provence’)

• Why it thrives in heat: A hybrid of English and spike lavender, making it more tolerant of both heat and humidity.
• What makes it unique: Known for its tall flower spikes and strong, sweet fragrance.
• Best for: Zones 6–9; widely grown in commercial lavender farms.
• Care tip: Requires excellent drainage to prevent root rot in hot weather.

‘Goodwin Creek Gray’ (Lavandula x ginginsii)

• Why it thrives in heat: One of the most heat- and drought-tolerant lavenders.
• What makes it unique: Silvery-gray foliage with deep purple flower spikes.
• Best for: Hot climates, including desert areas, as long as the soil drains well.
• Care tip: Does well in containers but must have fast-draining soil.

Fern Leaf Lavender (Lavandula multifida)

• Why it thrives in heat: Tolerates dry conditions and blooms almost year-round in warm regions.
• What makes it unique: Feathery, fern-like foliage with a milder lavender scent.
• Best for: Hot, dry climates where traditional lavender struggles. Grows well in containers.
• Care tip: Blooms continuously with light trimming; a great choice for attracting pollinators and hummingbirds.

What to Expect When Growing Lavender in Hot Climates

Even heat-tolerant lavender varieties may struggle during peak summer temperatures. It’s normal for plants to look a little stressed, with some leaf curling or minor browning. However, once temperatures cool slightly, they will bounce back and continue blooming. Providing well-draining soil, occasional deep watering, and light afternoon shade in extreme heat can help keep your plants healthy.

Don’t forget to use the blooms! Learn more about edible flowers in this guide.

By choosing the right lavender variety for your hot climate, you’ll enjoy beautiful, fragrant blooms even in tough growing conditions. Lavender makes an excellent companion plant for your garden, learn more in this guide.

Final Tips for Choosing Lavender

• Check Local Nurseries – They often stock varieties proven to thrive in your area.
• Know Your Soil – Lavender needs excellent drainage, so be prepared to amend heavy or clay soils.
• Start Small – Grow a few different varieties to see which performs best before planting en masse.
• Experiment – Different areas of your yard may be better suited to growing lavender.

Don’t give up! The beautiful lavender blooms and the pollinators they attract year after year are worth the effort to find the right plant for the right spot in your yard.

Next step? Learn how to grow and care for lavender in desert conditions—read this article to learn how. Want to make the most of your lavender? Check out my full guide on harvesting, drying, and using lavender for all the details

Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like

Lavender thrives alongside other sun-loving, low-water plants. Check out our grow guides for:

• Texas Mountain Laurel
• Rosemary

Both share similar watering and soil conditions, so they’re great companions. You can also explore our guide to hot-climate perennial herbs.

Source: Mielke, Judy. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. University of Texas Press, Austin, 1993.

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Article Outline:

• Why Lavender Thrives in Hot Climates
• Best Lavender Varieties for Hot Climates
• Best Planting Times: Fall or Spring
• Care Tips for Growing Lavender in Hot Climates
• Harvesting Your Lavender
• Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
• Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like
• Final Thoughts

Why Lavender Thrives in Hot Climates

Many lavender species originated in Mediterranean regions with rocky soils, strong sun, and minimal rainfall—conditions similar to what many “hot climate” gardeners experience. While some lavender varieties handle cold better, others are especially suited to heat. If you pick the right type and respect its water and drainage needs, lavender can flourish even in tough, scorching conditions.

Best Lavender Varieties for Hot Climates

• Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)
• French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)
• Fern-Leaf Lavender (Lavandula multifida)

Check out my detailed post on the best lavender varieties for hot climates for full descriptions and tips on each type.

Lavender makes an excellent warm-season companion plant for your garden, learn more in this guide.

Lavender is also a great choice for attracting beneficial pollinators, especially bees and butterflies. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Best Planting Times: Fall or Spring

If you live in a hot climate, fall or early spring are the best times to plant lavender. Here’s why:

• Fall: Planting in the fall gives lavender time to establish roots before the stress of extreme summer heat or cold snaps. The cooler nights also reduce evaporation and stress on new transplants.
• Early Spring: Spring is another good option if fall gets too cold in your area. Planting in the spring allows the lavender to settle in during milder conditions, gearing up for strong growth before summer temperatures soar.

Both seasons offer moderate temperatures that help lavender develop a robust root system.

Care Tips for Growing Lavender in Hot Climates

1. Choose a Sunny Spot

Lavender needs full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours a day. Aim for plenty of morning sun and a bit of afternoon shade in very hot areas if possible.

2. Provide Excellent Drainage

Soil drainage is often the deciding factor in whether lavender thrives or struggles. If you have clay or poorly draining soil, amend your soil with sand, gravel, or a cactus mix to promote drainage. Lavender is prone to root rot in heavy, wet soils.

Tip: Dig the planting hole and fill it with water; it should drain within an hour or two. If the water remains longer, improve the drainage or pick another spot.

3. Irrigation Strategy

• Cool Season (fall/winter/spring): Provide moderate, regular water while your lavender is actively growing or blooming.
• Hot Summer: Reduce watering drastically. Deep soaks once or twice a month are enough for established plants. Overwatering can harm lavender, especially in high heat.

4. Light Mulching

Lavender doesn’t need (or want) thick mulch that retains excess moisture. A thin layer of non-organic mulch (gravel or rocks) helps control weeds and moderate soil temperature. Keep it away from the stems—piling mulch around the base can create moisture problems. A light top-dressing of compost each fall is usually all the fertilization lavender needs.

5. Gentle Pruning

• When to Prune: In the fall as new growth emerges or right after the main bloom flush.
• How Much to Remove: Only trim back the top few inches of green growth. Avoid cutting into the older woody stems—lavender often struggles to regrow from heavy cuts.

6. Expect Summer Dormancy

As temperatures climb in the summer, lavender will go somewhat dormant. The plant will not look its best. Don’t prune, fertilize, or over water. As temperatures moderate in the fall you will see new growth and signs of life. Get more tips for growing perennial herbs in hot summer climates in this guide.

Harvesting Your Lavender

• Harvest just as the flower buds begin to open. Early morning is best, when the essential oils are at their peak.
• Use sharp shears to snip stems a few inches above the foliage. Gather the stems into small bundles to hang and dry.
• Don’t forget to use the blooms! Learn more about edible flowers in this guide. Dried lavender makes aromatic sachets, bouquets, and wreaths or can even be added to certain culinary dishes (e.g., herbes de Provence).

Want to make the most of your lavender? Check out my full guide on harvesting, drying, and using lavender for all the details

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Why is my lavender dying or not growing well?

• Overwatering: Lavender roots hate constant moisture. A soggy bed or daily watering often leads to wilt and root rot.
• Too Much Mulch: Thick, damp mulch traps moisture at the base, inviting fungal issues. Use organic mulch sparingly and keep it off the stems.
• Wrong Variety: Some lavenders just aren’t suited for high heat. See our guide to the best lavender varieties for hot climates to choose one adapted to your region.

When should I prune lavender?

• It’s best to prune lightly in the fall. Avoid heavy pruning in spring or summer when plants are actively flowering or enduring stress from heat.

How often should I water lavender in a hot, dry climate?

• After being established, a deep soak once or twice a month in summer is enough. Younger plants may need more frequent watering while roots are established.

My lavender looks haggard—can I cut it back hard?

• Lavender doesn’t regenerate easily from older woody stems. Stick to light trimming of green growth rather than cutting back severely into wood.

Does lavender need fertilizer?

• Generally, no. A small amount of compost in early fall is sufficient. Overfertilizing can cause rapid growth that’s prone to disease and rot.

Can I prune lavender all the way back to the woody stems?

• This is usually discouraged. Severe pruning into old wood may stunt the plant’s ability to recover, especially during the hot, dormant season.

What about pests or diseases?

• Lavender is fairly pest-resistant. Root rot or fungal diseases usually come from too much water and poor drainage, so keep the soil well-drained and don’t overwater.

Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like

Lavender thrives alongside other sun-loving, low-water plants. Check out our grow guides for:

• Texas Mountain Laurel
• Rosemary
• Hyssop

Both share similar watering and soil conditions, so they’re great companions. You can also explore our guide to other perennial herbs if you want to fill your garden with more Mediterranean favorites that thrive in hot, dry climates.

Final Thoughts

Hot climates don’t have to be a barrier to growing lavender. By choosing a variety suited for heat, planting at the right time, and giving your plants the right balance of water and drainage, you’ll enjoy stunning blooms and calming fragrances for many seasons to come.

Source: Mielke, Judy. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. University of Texas Press, Austin, 1993.

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