What We Will Cover:

• What Is Lemon Balm?
• Lemon Balm at a Glance
• When to Plant Lemon Balm
• Where to Grow
• Soil Preparation
• Planting From Seed or Transplants
• Watering and Fertilizing
• Pruning, Maintenance, and Summer Care
• How to Grow Lemon Balm in Containers
• Lemon Balm Companion Plants
• Pests and Diseases to Watch Out For
• Harvesting Lemon Balm
• Propagation
• Is Lemon Balm Invasive?
• How to Use Lemon Balm
• How to Grow Lemon Balm FAQs

What Is Lemon Balm?

Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is a perennial herb in the mint family with soft, crinkled leaves and a mild lemon scent. It attracts pollinators and has been used for centuries for its calming properties in teas and tinctures.

Lemon Balm at a Glance

• Type: Short‑lived perennial; tender in extreme heat
• Height/Spread: 12–24 inches tall (30–60 cm), 18–24 inches wide (45–60 cm)
• Sun: Full sun to part shade; afternoon shade in hot climates
• Soil: Well‑draining, fertile soil; pH 6.0–7.5
• Water: Even moisture, never soggy
• Spacing: 12–18 inches apart (30–45 cm)
• Container: 12 inches wide (30 cm) or larger with drainage
• Hardiness: Perennial in zones 4–9. In the low desert, treat as a cool‑season annual or give afternoon shade and extra care through summer.

When to Plant Lemon Balm

General climates

• From seed indoors: 6–8 weeks before your last frost.
• Transplant outdoors: After danger of frost, when soil is 60–70°F (16–21°C).
• Fall planting: In mild‑winter areas, plant in early fall for a long cool‑season harvest.

Low desert of Arizona

• Best transplant windows: February–April and October–November.
• The goal is to establish plants before the hottest months. Provide morning sun and afternoon shade once temperatures climb.
• See my Arizona Herb Planting Guide for more timing tips.

Where to Grow

• Light: Lemon balm tolerates full sun in mild climates. In hot, dry regions, give 4–6 hours of morning sun with afternoon shade or filtered light.
• Temperature: Growth slows in high heat. Plants can survive light frosts once established.

Soil Preparation

• Choose a well‑draining, loamy soil enriched with compost or worm castings.
• Target pH 6.0–7.5.
• In raised beds and containers, use a high‑quality planting mix that drains well. If summer heat is intense, mulch with shredded leaves or compost to moderate soil temperature and conserve water.
• For hot climates, see How to Grow Herbs in Hot Summer Climates and 10 Perennial Herbs for Hot Summer Climates.

Planting From Seed or Transplants

From seed

1. Surface sow or cover very lightly, about 1⁄16–1⁄8 inches (1–3 mm). Light aids germination.
2. Keep evenly moist at 65–70°F (18–21°C).
3. Germination takes 7–21 days.
4. Thin or transplant seedlings to 12–18 inches apart.

From transplants

• Plant at the same depth as the nursery pot.
• Water-in well and shade for a few days while roots establish.

Watering and Fertilizing

• Keep soil evenly moist. Water deeply when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) is dry. Containers dry faster than beds.
• Avoid soggy conditions that lead to root issues.
• Fertilize lightly. Too much nitrogen reduces flavor. Monthly compost tea or a small side‑dressing of compost is usually enough.

Deep, infrequent watering encourages resilient roots.

Pruning, Maintenance, and Summer Care

• Pinch growing tips to encourage a bushy plant.
• Do not remove more than one‑third of the plant at a time.
• Before seed set, shear plants back by one‑third to refresh growth and discourage self‑sowing.
• In the low desert, oversummer by moving containers to bright shade, increasing mulch, and watering consistently. Some plants may decline in peak heat and can be replanted in fall.

How to Grow Lemon Balm in Containers

Lemon balm grows well in containers, which helps prevent it from spreading and allows you to move the plant to a shadier spot during hot weather.

• Choose a pot 12–16 inches (30–40 cm) wide with good drainage.
• Use a well-draining potting mix enriched with compost or worm castings.
• Water deeply when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry. In warm climates, this may be every 1–3 days depending on exposure and pot size.
• Feed lightly during active growth using a diluted organic liquid fertilizer or compost tea every few weeks.

Want to make watering easier?

For consistent moisture and reduced watering frequency, consider using an olla like the ones I use from Growoya. It’s especially helpful during hot weather when container soil can dry out quickly.

Lemon Balm Companion Plants

Lemon balm does best in moderate moisture and partial to full sun, making it more compatible with herbs and vegetables that enjoy similar growing conditions. It attracts pollinators and its fragrant foliage may help deter some pests.

• Lettuce – Lemon balm’s scent may help deter aphids, and its light shade can benefit tender lettuce leaves.
• Peas and beans – Nitrogen-fixing legumes pair well in timing and water needs during the cool season.
• Brassicas (like broccoli, cabbage, or kale) – Lemon balm may help deter cabbage moths and other pests.

Lemon balm prefers more moisture than drought-tolerant herbs in the Lamiaceae family like sage, oregano, and thyme. Explore How to Grow Sage and How to Grow Mint for more growing information.

Pests and Diseases to Watch Out For

Generally trouble‑free. Watch for aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites, especially in heat or dry air. Use a firm water spray or insecticidal soap if needed. Prevent powdery mildew with good spacing, airflow, and morning watering at soil level.

Harvesting Lemon Balm

• Begin harvesting once plants are 6–8 inches tall.
• Cut stems just above a leaf node. Harvest in the morning after the dew dries for best flavor.
• To harvest without killing the plant, never remove more than one‑third at once, and rotate harvest areas to allow regrowth.

Preserving

• Drying: Tie small bundles or use a dehydrator at low temperature until brittle.
• Freezing: Chop and freeze in ice cube trays with water or olive oil.
• Fresh use: Best flavor comes from young, tender leaves.

Propagation

• Division: Split clumps in early spring or fall.
• Cuttings: Root softwood cuttings in water or moist potting mix.
• Seed: Fresh seed germinates best. Surface sow and keep evenly moist.

Is Lemon Balm Invasive?

Lemon balm spreads mainly by self‑seeding. It is less aggressive than true mints but can pop up nearby. Prevent spread by shearing before seed set, pulling unwanted seedlings, or growing in containers. Tips in Preventing Mint From Spreading apply here as well.

How to Use Lemon Balm

Use young leaves for a subtle lemon and mint flavor in tea blends, salads, fruit, marinades, and desserts.

Lemon Balm Pesto

First heard about this on a garden tour. Now we make it often.

Ingredients

• ¾ cup lemon balm leaves, firmly packed
• ½ cup pine nuts
• ¾ cup Parmesan cheese
• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
• 3 Tb lemon juice
• 1 tsp fresh chives
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions
Pulse all ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Season to taste. Refrigerate up to 1 week or freeze up to 3 months.

Sage and Lemon Balm Tea

Sage can be overpowering on its own. Lemon balm balances it out.

• 2 Tb finely chopped sage
• 3 Tb finely chopped lemon balm
• 6 oz boiling water
• 1 tsp honey

Steep 10–15 minutes, strain, and enjoy. Try my Roselle Citrus Tea for another favorite.

How to Grow Lemon Balm FAQs

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow and Use Lemon Balm appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What we will cover: 

• What is Stevia?
• When to Plant Stevia
• How to Grow Stevia
• How to Grow Stevia from Seed
• Is Stevia a Perennial or Annual?
• How to Harvest and Dry Stevia
• How to Use Stevia
• Companion Plants and Similar Herbs
• FAQ: How to Grow Stevia
• Final Tips for Growing Stevia Successfully

What Is Stevia?

Stevia is a perennial herb in the sunflower family known for its intensely sweet leaves. Unlike sugar, it doesn’t spike blood sugar levels, making it a popular alternative for those looking to cut back on sugar.

The sweetness comes from natural compounds called steviol glycosides, which are extracted to make stevia powder or liquid sweeteners.

One of my favorite ways to use it is in homemade roselle hibiscus tea. Stevia leaves add the perfect hint of sweetness without any sugar. So good!

When to Plant Stevia

In most climates, plant stevia transplants after the danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C). Stevia doesn’t tolerate frost or extreme heat well, so timing is important.

Tip: Stevia can be grown from seed, but germination is often unreliable. For best results, start with healthy transplants from a nursery or grow your own from cuttings. They establish more quickly and are easier to manage.

When to Plant Stevia in Arizona (Low Desert Zones 9–10):

• Spring Planting: February through April 
• Fall Planting: October through early November
  

In the low desert, avoid planting stevia in midsummer. Intense heat can stress young transplants. If you’re planting in spring, provide afternoon shade during the summer to help the plant get established.

How to Grow Stevia

Spacing & Light

• Spacing: 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) apart to allow good air circulation and bushy growth.
  
• Light: Full sun to part shade. In hot climates, afternoon shade is beneficial.
  

Soil Requirements

• The plant prefers well-draining, loamy soil rich in organic matter.
  
• A slightly acidic pH (6.5–7.0) is ideal.
  
• Avoid clay or waterlogged soils, which can cause root rot.
  

Watering

Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. The plant has shallow roots and benefits from regular watering, especially during dry spells.

Maintenance

Pinch or trim back leggy stems occasionally to encourage a bushier plant, but avoid heavy pruning during the peak of summer in hot climates, this can stress the plant. It often slows its growth or goes semi-dormant during very hot or cold periods.

At the end of summer in hot climates, or after winter in cooler areas, trim the plant back by about one-third and feed with compost to encourage healthy new growth for the next season. Remove spent flowers to keep the plant tidy and productive.

Can You Grow Stevia from Seed?

Yes, stevia can be grown from seed, but it isn’t always the easiest route. Germination rates are often low, and seedlings can be slow to establish.

I recommend planting stevia from a transplant (either from a local nursery or started from cuttings) for the most reliable results. However, if you want to try starting from seed, here are a few tips:

• Use fresh seeds from a reputable source.
• Start seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before your planting date.
• Provide warmth (70–75°F / 21–24°C), consistent moisture, and plenty of light.
• Be patient, germination can take 7–21 days.
• Thin seedlings and transplant outdoors when soil has warmed.

If you’re up for the challenge, it’s a fun way to grow your own stevia from scratch, but don’t be discouraged if germination is spotty.

Is Stevia a Perennial or Annual?

Stevia is a tender perennial in USDA zones 9 and warmer, including the low desert areas of Arizona. In these zones, plants may survive year to year with protection from frost. In colder areas, it is grown as an annual or overwintered indoors in containers.

How to Harvest and Dry Stevia

When and How to Harvest

For the sweetest leaves, harvest the just before it flowers. Here’s how:

1. Use scissors or garden shears to cut entire stems from the plant.
   
2. Strip the leaves from the stems.
   
3. Use fresh, or dry the leaves for long-term storage.
   

Drying and Preserving Stevia

• Air Drying: Bundle stems and hang them upside down in a dry, well-ventilated area.
  
• Dehydrator: Use a low setting to dry leaves quickly without damaging their flavor.
  
• Freeze Drying: If you have a freeze dryer, this is one of the best ways to preserve the color, sweetness, and potency of the leaves. Freeze-dried stevia can be powdered or used whole. Learn more about how to freeze dry herbs in this guide.

Once dried, store the leaves in an airtight container out of direct light. Leaves have the best flavor if used within a year.

Make Your Own Stevia Powder
Dry, dehydrate, or freeze dry clean stevia leaves until crisp. Once dry, grind into a fine powder with a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. It’s super sweet, a pinch goes a long way.

How to Use Stevia

Stevia can be used to sweeten herbal teas, baked goods, smoothies, and more. The leaves can be steeped whole, ground into a powder, or used to infuse water.

In Hibiscus Tea: I love adding a couple of fresh or dried leaves to homemade roselle hibiscus tea. It complements the tangy flavor beautifully without needing sugar. Get the recipe for hibiscus tea here.

Usage Guidelines

• It is about 30 times (or more!) sweeter than sugar, depending on how it’s prepared.
  
• For fresh or dried leaves, start with 1 crushed leaf per cup of tea and adjust to taste.
  
• For baking, it’s best to use recipes formulated for stevia or experiment in small batches. It doesn’t caramelize or provide bulk like sugar.
  

Companion Plants and Similar Herbs

Stevia grows well alongside:

• Lemon balm – another sweet-tasting herb often used in teas
  
• Mint – helps deter pests and shares similar growing needs
  
• Chamomile – complements in herbal blends
  
• Basil – thrives in similar warm-season conditions
  

These herbs support beneficial insect activity and help create a more diverse and resilient garden. Learn more about how to attract beneficial insects to your garden in this guide. 

FAQ: How to Grow Stevia

Final Tips for Growing Stevia Successfully

Stevia is an easy-to-grow herb that adds natural sweetness to your garden and kitchen. In hot climates like Arizona, plant during the cooler seasons and give the plant afternoon shade. Use fresh, dried, or freeze-dried leaves in teas and more. 

Looking for more herbs that thrive in hot climates?
Explore these helpful guides:

• How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
  
• How to Grow Roselle Hibiscus
  
• 10 Warm-Season Companion Plants

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow and Use Stevia appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What We Will Cover

• What is Hyssop?
• When to Plant Hyssop
• How to Grow Hyssop
• Growing Hyssop in Containers
• Hyssop Companion Plants
• Benefits of Hyssop
• Harvesting, Drying, and Using Hyssop
• Is Hyssop a Perennial?
• Can I Propagate Hyssop?
• Hyssop FAQ

What Is Hyssop?

Hyssop is a woody, shrubby herb in the mint family. Traditionally used in herbal medicine and teas, it also brings color and fragrance to the garden. Its upright growth habit, narrow leaves, and bright blooms make it a favorite for both herb and pollinator gardens. While it’s sometimes confused with anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), the two are different species with distinct flavors and growing preferences.

Learn more about pollinator-friendly herbs in this guide to companion planting with herbs.

When to Plant Hyssop

Hyssop is easy to grow from seed, transplants, or divisions. Plant it during the mild seasons of spring or fall to allow roots to get established. 

General Planting Guidelines

• Start seeds indoors: Late winter, about 6–8 weeks before your last frost date
  
• Transplant or direct sow outdoors: After danger of frost has passed
  
• Zones: Hardy in USDA zones 4–9
  

Low Desert Planting Dates (Zones 9–10)

• Start seeds indoors: December to February
  
• Plant transplants or direct sow: February through April
  

Looking for more region-specific advice? Check out my Low Desert Herb Planting Guide.

How to Grow Hyssop

Light Requirements
Hyssop thrives in full sun (at least 6–8 hours a day). In hotter regions like the low desert, it appreciates some afternoon shade during the peak of summer.

Soil Preferences
Hyssop thrives in well-drained soil and doesn’t need rich amendments, poor or rocky soil actually enhances its aromatic oils. Good drainage is essential. I once planted it in a raised bed that sits in a low spot in my garden, and it didn’t survive. The area stayed too soggy after watering, and the plant quickly rotted and died.

Watering Tips
Hyssop is drought-tolerant once established and prefers deep, infrequent watering. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings (especially in the ground). For container-grown plants or during hot weather, check the top couple of inches of soil before watering. If it still feels hydrated, it’s best to wait.

Maintenance
Prune hyssop occasionally to remove spent flower heads and encourage new growth. If you cut back more than a third of the plant, feed lightly with compost to support recovery. Over time, plants can become woody, consider replacing them every 4–5 years for best performance.

Growing Hyssop in Containers

Hyssop grows well in containers and is a good option if your garden soil doesn’t drain well. Choose a pot that’s at least 10–12 inches deep with drainage holes to prevent soggy roots.

Use a light, well-draining soil mix. Container-grown plants dry out more quickly than those in the ground, especially in warm or windy conditions. Water thoroughly, but only when the top couple of inches of soil feel dry.

In colder climates, bring containers indoors or into a protected spot over winter. In hot climates like the low desert, move pots to a spot with afternoon shade during the hottest months to reduce stress.

Hyssop Companion Plants

Hyssop pairs well with other Mediterranean herbs that thrive in dry, sunny conditions. These herbs share similar growing needs and create a beautiful, aromatic herb garden when planted together. (Click on each herb to read the full growing guide):

• Rosemary
  
• Sage
  
• Thyme
  
• Lavender
  
• Oregano

Hyssop is also a great addition to pollinator and vegetable gardens. Its strong scent helps deter some pests, and its nectar-rich blooms attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects.
For more ideas, read this guide on planting for pollinators and creating an insectary border.

Benefits of Hyssop

Beyond its beauty and fragrance, it offers a few practical benefits:

• Pollinator magnet: Loved by bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds
  
• Medicinal uses: Traditionally used for sore throats, coughs, and digestion
  
• Culinary uses: Add to soups, salads or tea
  
• Ornamental value: Striking flower spikes throughout the warm season

Want more pollinator-friendly herbs? Check out these cool-season companion plants.

Harvesting, Drying, and Using Hyssop

Cut stems just as the flowers begin to bloom for the best flavor and potency. The green, leafy growth appears along a woody stem, which makes it easy to strip off the tender leaves and use only the soft portions.

Use fresh, or bundle and hang upside down to dry in a well-ventilated, shaded area. Once dry, store leaves in an airtight container away from light. The leaves have a strong medicinal odor so experiment when adding it to food to make sure you like it. 

• Tea is a classic way to use dried leaves, especially for soothing the throat. 
• A poultice of fresh ground leaves is said to promote the healing of wounds and bruises.
• Use fresh leaves to flavor green salad, chicken soup and poultry stuffing.

Is Hyssop a Perennial?

Yes, it is a hardy perennial in zones 4–9 and often survives mild winters. In colder climates, mulch around the base to protect roots from deep freezes. In the low desert, hyssop often slows growth in summer but bounces back with fall weather.

Trim back over wintered (or over-summered) plants by about one third to reinvigorate and encourage new growth during spring and fall. 

Can I Propagate Hyssop?

Absolutely. Besides growing from seed, it can be propagated by:

• Cuttings: Take softwood cuttings in spring or early summer
  
• Division: Dig and divide mature clumps in early spring or fall
  

Hyssop FAQ

Hyssop is a resilient, useful herb that adds color and life to your garden while offering culinary and medicinal uses. Whether you grow it in the ground or a container, it rewards you with low-maintenance beauty all season long.

Want to grow more herbs like this? Check out my guide to 10 perennial herbs for hot climates.

Source: 

Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs, Rodale Press.

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Hyssop: Planting, Care & Uses appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Papalo is rarely sold as a transplant, so growing it from seed is the best way to add it to your garden. In this post, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to grow papalo from seed, especially if you garden in a hot, dry climate like Arizona.

What Is Papalo?

Papalo (Porophyllum ruderale) is a traditional herb in Mexican and Central American cuisine. While it’s often compared to cilantro, the two are unrelated. Cilantro bolts quickly in the heat, but papalo thrives in it. If you’ve missed the flavor of cilantro during the summer, it is worth a try. You can also check out my guide to how to grow cilantro for tips if you’re planting both.

The leaves are flat, round, and slightly blue-green. Brushing against the plant releases a strong, distinctive scent that tends to linger. I’ll warn you now: once you handle it, you might be smelling it for the rest of the day. I don’t mind it, and my chickens absolutely love it.

What to Know About Papalo Seeds

Papalo seeds are unlike typical herb seeds. Botanically speaking, it produces achenes, a type of dry fruit that doesn’t split open. Each seed is enclosed in a papery casing with a feathery pappus (it looks like a parachute). This structure helps the seed disperse on the wind, much like a dandelion.

Some gardeners (including me) believe germination improves when the seed’s “parachute” is left intact. There’s no published data to confirm this, but anecdotally, it seems to help, so I leave it on. Regardless, papalo often has a low and slow germination rate, so don’t give up too soon.

Use fresh seed each season for the best results. Older seed can lose viability quickly. Sow seeds about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and keep the soil consistently moist until sprouts appear—this may take 10 to 21 days or even longer.

Once the seedlings are up, papalo grows well. But getting to that point takes a little patience. 

When to Plant Papalo

Papalo is a warm-season herb that prefers soil temperatures around 70 to 90°F (21 to 32°C). It grows best when days are long and hot.

In most climates:

• Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost.
  
• Transplant outdoors once the weather warms and all danger of frost has passed, usually late spring.
  

In the low desert (Zones 9 and 10):

• Start seeds indoors in January or February.
  
• Plant seeds or transplants outside in March or April.
  

Because papalo likes heat, you can also direct sow it once the soil warms up. It doesn’t mind summer heat like many other herbs do. If you’re planning a summer herb garden, I also recommend checking out my post on herbs that thrive in hot climates.

How to Plant Papalo

Choose a spot with full sun. Papalo needs at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. It tolerates extreme heat well but may get leggy in partial shade.

• Soil: Use well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. Avoid heavy or waterlogged areas.
  
• Spacing: Plant one per square foot (30 x 30 cm) or space 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) apart in traditional beds.
  
• Planting depth: Sow seeds about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep.
  
• Germination: Be patient. The seeds can take 10 to 14 days or longer to sprout.

If you’re new to gardening in a hot climate, I have a full guide to gardening in the desert that can help you set up your garden for success.

Papalo Plant Care Tips

It is a relatively low-maintenance herb once established. Here are a few key things to keep in mind:

• Watering: Water deeply but infrequently. Once the plant is established, let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings.
  
• Fertilizer: If your soil is rich in compost and organic matter, your herb may not need extra fertilizer. However, a monthly application of diluted liquid fertilizer can boost growth.
  
• Pruning: Pinch or cut back regularly to encourage bushy growth and delay flowering. If it’s left alone, it can grow tall and produce flowers quickly, which slows leaf production.
  
• Support: Tall plants may flop over in wind or rain. Use a stake or small cage if needed.
  

Mulching around the base of the plant helps retain moisture and keeps roots cool during extreme heat. This is especially helpful in containers or raised beds.

Harvesting and Using Papalo

You can begin harvesting once the plant is about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) tall. Use scissors or garden snips to cut leaves as needed.

• Harvest a few leaves at a time, never more than one-third of the plant.
  
• The flavor intensifies as the plant matures, so start slow if you’re new to growing this herb.
  

Papalo has a bold, peppery, and slightly citrusy flavor. A little goes a long way, so try it in small amounts at first.

Use fresh in:

• Tacos and quesadillas
  
• Salsas and guacamole
  
• Fresh salads
  
• Cemita sandwiches
  
• Soups and stews (add at the end)
  

The leaves don’t dry well, so enjoy it fresh during the growing season.

Saving Seeds from Papalo

Once your plant flowers, it will produce seed heads similar to dandelions. Let the flowers dry completely on the plant, then gently collect the fluffy seeds.

• Store in a labeled envelope in a cool, dry place.
  
• Use the seeds the following year for best results.
  

Papalo often reseeds itself if left in the ground. You might find volunteers popping up next season.

FAQs About Growing Papalo

Add Papalo to Your Garden This Season

If you’re looking for a heat-loving herb that brings bold, unique flavor to your cooking, papalo is worth growing. It thrives in hot climates where cilantro struggles, making it a great choice for summer gardens. With a little patience at the seed stage and regular pruning, papalo will reward you with flavorful leaves all season long. If you want to try something new, give it a spot in your herb garden this year.

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Papalo From Seed appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What we will cover:

• French Tarragon vs. Russian Tarragon
• Where to Get French Tarragon
• When to Plant French Tarragon
• How to Care for French Tarragon
• How to Harvest and Use French Tarragon
  • Best Vinegar and Oil for Infusing with Tarragon
  • How to Make Tarragon-Infused Vinegar or Oil
• FAQ About Growing French Tarragon

French Tarragon vs Russian Tarragon: How to Tell the Difference

A common question gardeners have is: can you grow French tarragon from seed? Many gardeners (including me!) are surprised to learn that French tarragon does not grow from seed. Instead, it is propagated by root division because its flowers are sterile.

Can you grow French tarragon from seed? No! Seed packets labeled as “tarragon” typically contain Russian tarragon, a more vigorous but inferior variety with a much milder flavor. If you want the rich, anise-like aroma and taste that defines classic French dishes, seek out true plants or cuttings.

Knowing the difference between French tarragon vs Russian tarragon helps ensure you’re growing the variety with the best flavor and aroma.

Where to Get French Tarragon Transplants

Since French tarragon is only available as plants or cuttings, check with local nurseries or specialty herb growers. 

When to Plant French Tarragon

French tarragon grows best when planted during the mild seasons of the year. Timing depends on your climate, and it’s important to note that tarragon is frost sensitive, especially when newly planted. If planting in the fall, be prepared to protect young plants from early cold snaps.

• Low Desert (Zones 9–10):
  Plant in early spring (March–April) or fall (October–early November) so it can get established before extreme temperatures arrive. Provide frost protection for fall plantings.
• Cool and Temperate Climates (Zones 5–8):
  Plant in spring after the last frost. Tarragon goes dormant in winter and comes back in spring.
• Cold Climates (Zone 4 and below):
  Plant in spring, and mulch well in fall to protect the roots. Consider growing in containers you can bring indoors over winter.
• Mild or Coastal Climates (Zones 9–10 coastal):
  Plant in spring or fall, and give some afternoon shade during hot months.

Want to know the best times to plant herbs like tarragon in the low desert? Check out the Arizona Herb Planting Guide.

How to Care for French Tarragon

French tarragon is a perennial herb that thrives in well-drained soil and moderate water conditions. Here’s how to grow and care for French tarragon successfully:

• Sun Requirements: Full to part sun. In hotter climates like Arizona, it benefits from afternoon shade.
• Soil: Well-drained, fertile soil enriched with compost or organic matter.
• Watering: Moderate, similar to other perennial herbs. Avoid overwatering, as tarragon dislikes soggy soil.
• Growth Habit: Plants can reach 18-24 inches (45–60 cm) tall, with slender, green, aromatic leaves. It is a trailing herb and is best planted at the end or side of a bed so it has room to spread.
• Dormancy: In cold winters, plants may go dormant but will return in spring. In very hot summers, it may slow or stop growing as well, but should revive again as temperatures moderate. 

If you’re in a hot or dry climate, check out how to grow herbs in hot summer climates for more herb growing tips.

French Tarragon Plant Spacing

• Spacing: 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) apart
• Row spacing (if planting in rows): 18–24 inches (45–60 cm)
• Container size: At least 12 inches (30 cm) wide and deep per plant

French tarragon prefers good air circulation, especially in humid conditions, so give each plant plenty of room to grow and spread. This also helps reduce the risk of fungal issues.

By giving French tarragon the right care—well-drained soil, moderate watering, regular pruning, and winter protection—you’ll enjoy a healthy, flavorful herb year after year.

How to Harvest and Use French Tarragon

Harvesting:

• Begin harvesting once the plant is well-established and about 6–8 inches tall.
  
• Use clean scissors or snips to trim stems, cutting just above a leaf node to encourage bushier growth.
  
• Harvest in the morning for the best flavor and oils, before the heat of the day.

How to use it:

Once you’ve tasted true French tarragon, you’ll find yourself adding it to all kinds of dishes. Tarragon is one of the classic fines herbes in French cooking.

What Are Fines Herbes?

Fines herbes is a classic French herb blend made from fresh, delicate herbs—usually tarragon, parsley, chives, and chervil. These herbs are added at the end of cooking to preserve their delicate flavors.

Tarragon is the key flavor in Béarnaise sauce and pairs beautifully with vinegar, butter, and grilled meats. Try blending it into an herb butter (similar to what I do with rosemary), or steeping a few sprigs in vinegar for a simple homemade tarragon vinegar.

• Fresh use: Strip the leaves from the stem by running your fingers backward along the stalk. The leaves are tender and don’t need chopping unless you want them very fine.
  
• Best fresh: Tarragon is most flavorful when fresh. It adds a bright, slightly licorice-like flavor to chicken, fish, eggs, and sauces. Toss chopped tarragon into green salads or potato salad.

Should you dry it?

• You can dry tarragon, but much of its flavor is lost in the process.
  
• If you want to preserve the flavor long-term, try freeze drying or storing it in vinegar or oil instead.
  
• Learn how to preserve herbs with this guide: How to Freeze Dry Herbs.

If you’re building a full herb garden, tarragon fits in beautifully alongside other heat-tolerant culinary herbs like basil and thyme. With the right mix of herbs, your garden can be productive and flavorful year-round.

Best Vinegar and Oil for Infusing with Tarragon

Always use clean, dry herbs, and store infused vinegar or oil in a clean glass container in the refrigerator for safety.

Vinegar:

• White wine vinegar – The classic choice for making tarragon vinegar. It’s mild and doesn’t overpower the herb’s delicate flavor.
  
• Champagne vinegar – Light and slightly fruity, great for a more refined tarragon infusion.

Oil:

• Light olive oil – Use a mild, light-tasting olive oil (not extra virgin) to avoid overpowering the tarragon.
  
• Grapeseed oil – A neutral oil with a clean flavor and good shelf life, ideal for subtle herb infusions.
  

How to Make Tarragon-Infused Vinegar or Oil

Tarragon Vinegar (Cold Infusion Method):

1. Lightly bruise a few sprigs of fresh French tarragon to release the oils.
   
2. Place the sprigs in a clean, sterilized glass jar or bottle.
   
3. Pour in white wine vinegar or champagne vinegar to cover.
   
4. Seal tightly and store in a cool, dark place for 2–3 weeks, shaking gently every few days.
   
5. Taste after 2 weeks. Once infused to your liking, strain out the herbs and store the finished vinegar in a clean bottle in the refrigerator.

Tarragon-Infused Oil (Refrigerated Cold Infusion Method):

1. Use the same method as above, using light olive oil or grapeseed oil instead of vinegar.
   
2. Store the oil in the refrigerator only, and use within 2 weeks.

Because infused oils carry a risk of botulism when stored at room temperature, always refrigerate and discard if it becomes cloudy or smells off.

FAQs about French Tarragon

1. Can you grow French tarragon from seed?
No. Unfortunately, it does not produce viable seeds. It must be propagated from cuttings or root divisions.

2. What is the difference between French and Russian tarragon?
French tarragon has a stronger, more complex flavor with notes of anise, while Russian tarragon is less flavorful and often grown from seed.

3. Will French tarragon survive winter?
Yes, French tarragon is a perennial in zones 5–10 and goes dormant in winter. In colder zones, mulch heavily or grow it in containers you can bring indoors.

4. How do you preserve fresh French tarragon?
Tarragon can be frozen, freeze-dried, or preserved in vinegar or oil. Drying is possible, but much of the flavor is lost.

5. Can I grow French tarragon in pots or containers?
Absolutely. French tarragon does well in containers, especially in areas with harsh winters or poor drainage.

6. What dishes go well with French tarragon?
Tarragon complements chicken, eggs, fish, sauces (like Béarnaise), herb butters, salad dressings, and potato or green salads.

7. How much sun does French tarragon need?
It prefers full sun but appreciates afternoon shade in hot climates, such as Arizona.

8. Why does my French tarragon stop growing in summer?
In very hot climates, tarragon may go semi-dormant during peak summer heat but usually recovers when temperatures cool down.

9. Is it safe to make tarragon-infused oil at home?
Yes, but it must be refrigerated and used within 2 weeks to prevent bacterial growth. Never store tarragon oil at room temperature.

10. What kind of vinegar is best for tarragon vinegar?
White wine vinegar is the classic choice, but champagne vinegar can also work well.

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow and Use French Tarragon appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Many herbs are easy to grow and thrive year-round in the low desert of Arizona. This Arizona Herb Planting Guide provides planting dates and other information for growing over 30 different herbs in the low desert, which includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

Growing seasons in Arizona are short, and timing is critical when planting. Use this Arizona Herb Planting Guide to learn when and how to plant each herb. When you plant at the correct time, seeds will sprout, and transplants will become established in the optimal conditions for each plant. With pictures and planting dates for over 30 herbs that grow well in the low desert of Arizona, you are sure to find one to try. 

Gardening comes with its own language, and it can get confusing. That’s why I created the Practical Gardening Glossary—a handy A–Z guide that explains terms like “bolting,” “annual,” and “perennial” in plain English. It’s a great tool whether you’re just getting started or brushing up on your garden vocabulary.

Be sure to check out the end of this Arizona Herb Planting Guide for links to articles about common questions about growing a garden in Arizona. 

Ready to dig deeper? My gardening classes make it easy to grow with confidence, no matter your experience level.

Click on the herb name to go directly to that herb:

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

Amaranth

How to grow Amaranth:

• Grows best from seed
• When to plant amaranth in Arizona: March – April and July – August
• Harvest leaves as needed and cut the seed-heads with stems for drying to collect seeds. 
• Good to Know: Warm-season annual. Leaves are high in protein. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow amaranth.

Basil

How to grow Basil:

• Grows best from seed or transplant; propagates by cutting
• Start seeds indoors: January – July
• Plant seeds outside: February 15 – August
• Plant transplants outside: March – August
• Harvest leaves often to keep plant from flowering for best flavor. 
• Good to Know: Warm-season annual. Frost tender. Don’t rush planting; basil prefers warm air and soil. Plant near tomatoes to improve flavor and growth.

Read this article for more information about how to grow basil. 

Bay

How to grow Bay:

• Grows best from cutting or transplant
• When to plant bay in Arizona: Late February – April 
• Harvest dark leaves anytime. Use within 3-4 months for best flavor.
• Good to Know: Perennial. New plantings are frost-tender. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow bay. 

Bee Balm

How to grow Bee Balm:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Start seeds indoors: August – January
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – March
• Harvest leaves anytime. 
• Good to know: Needs frequent water and afternoon shade. Attracts beneficial insects and pollinators. Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona. Plant near tomatoes to improve flavor and growth.

Borage

How to grow Borage:

• Grows best from seed
• When to plant borage in Arizona: October – January
• Harvest young stems for best flavor. Pick flowers and use fresh, frozen, or dried.
• Good to Know: Cool-season annual. Self-seeds readily. Attracts pollinators. Plant with squash, strawberries, and tomatoes.

Read this article for more information about how to grow borage.

Calendula (Pot Marigold)

How to grow Calendula:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Start seeds indoors: August – September
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – November
• Harvest flowers regularly when young and fresh. 
• Good to know: Cool-season annual. Edible, and medicinal uses. Reseeds easily. Early bloomer. Often grown as a trap crop for aphids. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow calendula. 

Catnip

How to grow Catnip:

• Grows best from seed or division; reseeds readily
• When to plant catnip in Arizona: October – April 
• Harvest leaves as needed.
• Good to know: Perennial. Deters flea beetles.

Chamomile

How to grow Chamomile:

• Grows best from seed or transplant; reseeds readily
• Start seeds indoors: August – January
• Plant transplants outside: October – March
• Harvest chamomile when the petals are flat or beginning to fall back from bud. Air-dry or dry in a dehydrator.   
• Good to Know: Cool-season annual. Grows best in cooler weather. Improves the flavor of cabbage and onions.

Read this article for more information about how to grow chamomile. 

Chives

How to grow Chives:

• Grows best from seed or division
• Start seeds indoors: August – February
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – April
• Harvest by cutting leaves at the base.
• Good to Know: Low-growing perennial; beautiful when flowering. Divide plants in the fall or early spring. Improves the growth and flavor of carrots.

Cilantro

How to grow Cilantro:

• Grows best from seed or transplant; reseeds readily
• When to plant cilantro in Arizona: October – January 
• Harvest regularly for best flavor and to keep from flowering.
• Good to Know: Cool-season annual. Sets seed as temperatures climb in the spring. Cilantro seeds are called coriander. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow cilantro. 

Arizona Herb Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Herbs (continued)

Dill

How to grow Dill:

• Grows best from seed; handle transplants carefully; reseeds readily
• Start seeds indoors: August – November
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – January
• Use leaves fresh or dried. Let seed ripen on plant before harvesting. Bouquet dill has large seed heads. Fern-leaf dill has large plants for using fresh leaves. 
• Good to Know: Cool-season annual. Attracts swallowtail caterpillars. Trap crop for aphids; can attract ladybugs. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow dill.  

Fennel

How to grow Fennel:

• Grows best from seed; handle transplants carefully; reseeds readily
• Start seeds indoors: August – November
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – January
• Harvest stalks and leaves before they turn woody. Seed heads are ready to harvest when they turn yellow-green.
• Good to Know: Cool-season annual. Attracts swallowtail caterpillars. Trap crop for aphids; can attract ladybugs. Cut bulbs at base and they will regrow.

Read this article for more information about how to grow fennel.

French Tarragon

How to grow French Tarragon:

• Grows from transplant; can’t be grown from seed
• Plant transplants outside: March – April or October – November 15
• Good to Know: Cool-season annual. Attracts swallowtail caterpillars. Acts as a trap crop for aphids and attracts ladybugs. Reseeds readily. Cut stalks before woody; seed heads are ready when yellow-green. Cut bulbs at the base and they will regrow.

Read this article for more information about how to grow French tarragon.

Garlic

How to grow Garlic:

• Grows best from cloves
• When to plant garlic in Arizona: October – November
• Harvest bulbs by digging up in late May.
• Good to Know: Soft-neck varieties perform better than hard-neck types in warmer climates like Arizona. Pre-chill whole cloves in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator for at least 6 weeks before planting. Plant near roses to deter aphids.

Read this article for more information about how to grow garlic. 

Garlic Chives

How to grow Garlic Chives:

• Grows best from transplant or division
• When to plant garlic chives in Arizona: October – April
• Harvest stems by cutting down to base of plant as needed.
• Good to Know: Garlic chives are a reliable perennial herb in Arizona. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow garlic chives. 

Ginger

How to grow Ginger:

• Grows best from rhizomes
• Start seeds indoors: January – February
• Plant outside: March
• Harvest ginger about 10 months after planting by carefully digging out rhizomes. 
• Good to Know: Ginger needs a long warm growing season to grow well. Provide shade to protect leaves from sunburn. Harvest when leaves turn yellow and die back. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow ginger. 

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis)

How to grow Hyssop:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Start seeds indoors: January- February
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: February – April
• Harvest leaves just before flowering for best flavor. 
• Good to Know: Perennial, but often grown as an annual. Attracts pollinators to herb gardens. Good for bordering gardens.

Read this article for more information about how to grow hyssop.

Lavender

How to grow Lavender:

• Grows best from transplant
• When to plant lavender in Arizona: October – April
• Harvest stalks just as blooms begin to open.  
• Good to Know: Perennial. Grows best in sunny locations. Keep leaves dry and let plant dry out a bit between waterings. Needs well-draining soil. Spanish lavender varieties do well in the low desert of Arizona. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow lavender.

Lemon Balm

How to grow Lemon Balm:

• Grows best from transplant
• When to plant lemon balm in Arizona: February – April and October – November
• Harvest young leaves throughout the season and use fresh. 
• Good to Know: Perennial. When leaves look spent, cut back to ground to reinvigorate. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow lemon balm.

Lemon Grass

How to grow Lemon Grass:

• Grows best from division or transplant
• When to plant lemon grass in Arizona: February – April and October – November
• Harvest the fresh leaves and stems of single stalks as needed. 
• Good to Know: Perennial. Grows well year-round in the low desert of Arizona. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow lemon grass. 

Lemon Verbena

How to grow Lemon Verbena:

• Grows best from cutting or transplant
• When to plant lemon verbena in Arizona: February – April and October – November
• Harvest lemon-scented leaves as needed.
• Good to Know: Frost-tender perennial. Needs well-draining soil. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow lemon verbena.

Marjoram

How to grow Marjoram:

• Grows best from cutting, division, or transplant
• When to plant marjoram in Arizona: February – April and October – November  
• Harvest leaves just before flowering for best flavor.  
• Good to Know: Perennial. Seeds are slow to germinate; divide existing plants. Grows best in moist soil with full sun. Flowers in the spring. Similar to oregano, but taste is sweeter with more delicate flavor. 

Mint

How to grow Mint:

• Grows best from cutting, division, layering, or transplant
• When to plant mint in Arizona: February – April and October – November 
• Harvest leaves and stems when young for best flavor.
• Good to Know: Perennial. Can be invasive; grow in containers. Does best with afternoon shade. Cut back to reinvigorate in January. Deters white cabbage moths and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow mint. 

Arizona Herb Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Herbs (continued)

Oregano

How to grow Oregano:

• Grows best from cutting, division, or transplant
• When to plant oregano in Arizona: February – April and October – November  
• Harvest leaves just before flowering for best flavor. 
• Good to Know: Perennial. Seeds are slow to germinate; divide existing plants. Keep trimmed to prevent flowering.

Read this article for more information about how to grow oregano.

Papalo

How to grow Papalo:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Start seeds indoors: January – February
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: March – April
• Begin harvesting leaves once the plant is well established; younger leaves have milder flavor.
• Good to know: Warm-season annual. Thrives in hot, dry conditions. Strong flavor similar to cilantro. Grows tall; consider staking or pruning for bushier growth.

Read this article for more information about how to grow papalo.

Parsley (Italian – Flat)

How to grow Flat Parsley:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Start seeds indoors: July – March
• Plant seeds outside: October – March
• Plant transplants outside: October – April
• Harvest leaves any time as needed.  
• Good to Know: Biennial, but often grown as a cool-season annual. Seeds are slow to germinate. Flat parsley has a stronger taste than curly parsley.

Read this article for more information about how to grow parsley.

Parsley (Curly)

How to grow Curly Parsley:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Start seeds indoors: July – March
• Plant seeds outside: October – March
• Plant transplants outside: October – April
• Harvest leaves any time as needed.
• Good to Know: Biennial, but often grown as a cool-season annual. Seeds are slow to germinate. Flavor is more mild than flat parsley. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow parsley.

Rosemary

How to grow Rosemary:

• Grows best from cutting or transplant
• When to plant rosemary in Arizona: February – April and October – November
• Harvest stems as needed anytime. Best flavor is just before flowers appear. 
• Good to Know: Drought-tolerant perennial. Takes full sun but needs well-drained soil. Cutting back by more than 1/3 can shock plant. Grows up to 6 feet tall. Good companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies.

Read this article for more information about how to grow rosemary. 

Saffron Crocus

How to grow Saffron Crocus:

• Grows from bulbs
• Plant bulbs outside: September 15 – October
• Harvest the red stigmas (saffron threads) by hand when flowers bloom in late fall.
• Good to know: Fall-blooming perennial. Requires full sun and well-drained soil. Goes dormant in summer. Water lightly during active growth and allow to dry during dormancy.

Read this article for more information about how to grow saffron crocus.

Sage

How to grow Sage:

• Grows best from transplant
• When to plant sage in Arizona: February – April and October – November
• Harvest individual leaves as needed. 
• Good to know: Perennial. Needs good drainage. Can rot in the summer during hot weather if too wet. Companion plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths. Do not plant near cucumbers. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow sage.

Savory (Summer)

How to grow Summer Savory:

• Grows best from seed, cutting, or transplant
• When to plant summer savory in Arizona: February – April
• Harvest summer savory just before flowering for best flavor. 
• Good to Know: Warm-season annual. Does best with afternoon shade. Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. 

Savory (Winter)

How to grow Winter Savory:

• Grows best from seed, cutting, or transplant
• When to plant winter savory in Arizona: February – April and October – November
• Harvest leaves anytime. 
• Good to Know: Perennial with stronger flavor than summer savory. 

Stevia

How to grow Stevia:

• Grows best from transplant
• Plant transplants outside: February – April and October – November
• Harvest leaves before flowering for best sweetness; can do multiple cuttings per season.
• Good to know: Tender perennial often grown as an annual in colder areas. Prefers well-drained soil and needs afternoon shade. Leaves can be dried and used as a natural sweetener.

Read this article for more information about how to grow stevia.

Thyme

How to grow Thyme:

• Grows best from transplant
• When to plant thyme in Arizona: February – April and October – November
• Harvest thyme by clipping stems as needed. Harvest just before flowering for best flavor.
• Good to Know: Perennial. Prefers well-drained soil. Drought tolerant; prefers afternoon shade. Plant loses some flavor after 2 years; replant from cuttings. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow thyme.

Turmeric

How to grow Turmeric:

• Grows from rhizomes
• Start seeds indoors: January – February
• Plant outside: March
• Harvest turmeric about 10 months after planting by carefully digging out rhizomes. 
• Good to Know:  Prefers shade when grown in Arizona. Keep an eye on moisture levels. Can rot if too wet, but needs regular water and feeding to grow well. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow turmeric.

Violas

How to grow Violas:

• Grows best from seed or transplant
• Start seeds indoors: August – November
• Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – January
• Months in bloom: March-May
• Harvest violet by picking flowers as they appear. Harvest new leaves. 
• Good to know: Cool-season annual. Reseeds. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

Read this article for more information about how to grow violas.

Looking for more planting date information? The Fruit Planting Guide, Flower Planting Guide, and Vegetable Planting Guide are full of helpful details about when to plant here in the low desert of Arizona.

Want to learn more about herb and vegetable gardening in Arizona?

Click on a question below to be taken to a blog post about the topic. 

• What do you need to know about growing a vegetable garden in Arizona?
• Is it too hot to garden in the summer in Arizona?
• Which type of soil is best for gardening in Arizona?
• What is the best way to water vegetable gardens in Arizona?
• What is the best way to prevent pests when gardening in Arizona?
• Wondering how to get started with Square Foot Gardening?
• What about plant spacing in Square Foot Gardening?
• How do you get your soil ready for planting in Arizona?
• What should you do before starting a fall garden in Arizona?
• Wondering how to prepare for a spring garden in Arizona?

Not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index covers everything from ginger and cabbage to ranunculus—organized A–Z for easy browsing. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

Sources:

Desert Gardening for Beginners

If you enjoyed this post about herbs that grow well in Arizona, please share it.

The post Arizona Herb Planting Guide: A Visual Guide for Low Desert Herbs appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

This post will teach you how to grow thyme, harvest it often, and keep your plants healthy and productive for years. Whether you’re gardening in Arizona or anywhere else, these tips will help you grow thriving thyme plants. And if you’re wondering what to do with all that thyme, don’t miss my Blue Cheese Thyme Scalloped Potatoes recipe—my favorite way to enjoy this flavorful herb.

If you’re just getting started with herbs or want to expand your collection, my Arizona Planting Guide is a great resource for timing, spacing, and tips tailored to the low desert.

Article Outline:

1. Plant Several (and Different) Thyme Plants
2. Time It Right for a Head Start
3. Give Your Thyme Some TLC
4. Harvest Often for the Best Thyme
5. Use Fresh or Preserve for Later

How to Grow Thyme in Arizona

1. Plant Several (and Different) Thyme Plants

The best way to grow thyme successfully is to plant more than one. Having several thyme plants increases your chances of success and ensures you always have one to harvest from, even if another is flowering, going dormant, or recovering from a trim. I like to spread them throughout the garden in the corners of my raised beds.

Beyond quantity, variety also makes a difference. There’s more than one kind of thyme, and each brings something unique to the garden. Planting a mix means you’ll enjoy a variety of aromas, leaf colors, and growth habits.

Here are some of my favorites:

• Common thyme – Classic culinary thyme; about 16 inches (40 cm) tall; white or purple flowers.
• English thyme – Softer, mounded form; slightly milder aroma; purple flowers.
• Lemon thyme – Strong citrus aroma; great for cooking; 12 inches (30 cm) tall.
• Creeping thyme – Bright green leaves; low and spreading (4–6 inches / 10–15 cm); perfect for containers or pathways.
• Golden thyme – Eye-catching gold leaves; about 6 inches (15 cm) tall.
• Provençal thyme – Smaller leaves with a strong aroma; compact 12-inch (30 cm) growth.

By planting multiple thyme plants—both in number and variety—you’ll always have a healthy plant ready for harvest and ensure your herb garden is well-stocked all year.

Want to expand your herb garden even more? Here’s my guide to growing oregano and how to grow rosemary successfully. Want a quick visual reference? My Visual Guide for Low Desert Herbs makes it easy to see which herbs to grow and when at a glance.

2. Time It Right for a Head Start

Thyme can be grown from seed, but I’ve had the best luck with strong transplants. Starting with an established plant gives you a head start and earlier harvests.

If you do want to grow from seed:

• Start indoors 8–10 weeks before your planting date.
• Press seeds lightly into moist seed-starting mix and barely cover.
• Keep the soil around 70°F (21°C) for best germination.

When shopping for thyme transplants, choose:

• Short, bushy plants with growth spilling over the pot.
• Avoid dry, leggy, or discolored plants.

Plant thyme outdoors once the risk of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. Space plants 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) apart.

In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to plant thyme is from October to April, before or after the peak heat. The earlier in the planting window the better. This gives the plant longer to become established before the heat.

3. Give Your Thyme Some TLC

Thyme doesn’t need a lot of fuss, but it does appreciate the right growing conditions.

Sunlight:
Thyme prefers at least 6 hours of full sun, but in hot climates, it benefits from afternoon shade during the hottest months.

Soil:
Well-drained soil is essential. If your soil is heavy or slow to drain, consider planting thyme in raised beds or containers filled with a high-quality potting mix.

Curious which herbs thrive in similar conditions? Best Perennial Herbs for Hot Climates highlights tried-and-true varieties that love the heat, just like thyme does.

Watering:
Once established, thyme is drought-tolerant. Let the top few inches of soil dry out before watering again.

Too much moisture = root rot. If stems start to yellow or plants wilt despite moist soil, drainage is likely the issue.

Fertilizing:
Thyme doesn’t need much. A spring application of compost is usually enough. Avoid heavy fertilization—it reduces the flavorful oils in the leaves.

Mulching:
Use a light mulch like straw or wood chips to regulate soil temperature and suppress weeds. Avoid thick layers that trap moisture.

Pruning:
Regular snipping encourages fresh growth and keeps plants bushy. You can let a few stems flower to attract pollinators, but prune them back afterward to refresh growth.
Don’t cut back heavily during extreme heat or cold—wait until new growth appears.

Propagation Tip:
A simple way to multiply your thyme plants is to bury a low-growing stem in a bit of soil. It will form roots along the buried portion. Once rooted, snip it from the parent plant and replant it elsewhere.

4. Harvest Often for the Best Thyme

Once your thyme is established—usually 6 to 8 weeks after transplanting—you can start harvesting. Snip off the top leafy portions of stems and leave the woody parts behind.

For the most flavor, harvest just before the flowers appear. The tiny flowers are edible too, but milder in taste than the leaves.

Frequent harvesting encourages new growth and keeps the plant compact.

5. Use Fresh or Preserve for Later

Fresh thyme adds incredible flavor to:

• Roasted potatoes and meats
• Vegetable dishes
• Soups, sauces, and more

Thyme grows nearly year-round in the low desert, so I often harvest just what I need. But it’s also easy to preserve:

• Refrigerate: Wrap fresh sprigs in a damp paper towel and store in a container. Lasts up to 2 weeks.
• Freeze: Strip leaves and freeze flat in a single layer, or use ice cube trays with a bit of water or oil.
• Dry: Air-dry or use a dehydrator. Rub the leaves over a screen to separate them from the stem (picture below). Store in a sealed jar in a cool place.

If you enjoy growing drought-tolerant herbs like thyme, hyssop is another fragrant, pollinator-friendly option to try in your herb garden.

Want to preserve herbs for maximum flavor? Check out this post on how to freeze-dry herbs.

How to Grow Thyme in Arizona

Growing thyme in the low desert presents some challenges—but it’s absolutely doable with a few smart strategies:

• Plant thyme from October to April to give it time to settle in before summer. Remember, the earlier in the planting window, the better. This gives the plant longer to become established before the heat.
• Provide afternoon shade once temperatures heat up.
• Use raised beds or containers if your soil doesn’t drain well.
• In early spring and late fall, give thyme a light trim to stimulate new growth.
• Harvest frequently to prevent blooming and encourage leaf growth.
• Allow thyme to rest during the hottest months. Wait until temps cool and new growth appears before pruning again.

For even more advice on keeping herbs happy through Arizona’s extreme temperatures, check out How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates—it’s packed with practical strategies for success.

Final Thoughts

Once you figure out what thyme needs, it’s one of the most rewarding herbs you can grow. It smells amazing, looks beautiful in the garden, and adds flavor to so many dishes.

Have a favorite thyme recipe? Share it in the comments—I’d love to try it. And don’t forget to try my Blue Cheese Thyme Scalloped Potatoes recipe. I think you will love it!

Did you enjoy this post about how to grow thyme? Please share it.

The post Growing Thyme: 5 Secrets to Success appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

10 Proven Tips for Growing Oregano

Quick‑Glance Facts

• USDA Zones: 5-10
• Grows best in full sun
• Soil pH: 6.0-8.0
• Hardy to 5 °F/–15 °C once established
• Blooms attract pollinators

1. Start With Strong Transplants —or Seeds

I prefer buying well-established transplants because they give me a head start, but if you want a special variety or prefer seed‑starting, oregano is happy to begin life indoors, too.

Transplants

• Choose well-established transplants with the strongest aroma—rub a leaf and sniff.
• Plant when soil temperatures stay above 70 °F / 21 °C.
• Set at original depth, spacing 12–18 in / 30–45 cm apart.

Seeds

• Sow indoors 8–10 weeks before your last frost.
• Transplant or direct‑seed ¼ in / 6 mm deep once the danger of frost passes.
• Thin seedlings to 18 in / 45 cm apart at 6 in / 15 cm tall.

2. Give It the Right Site

Well‑draining soil and plenty of sunshine make oregano happiest. In cooler or humid climates, space plants out so air and light can reach every stem. If you plant it in a raised bed, plan to divide it every year or two.

• Full sun is ideal, but in extreme desert heat, aim for afternoon shade.
• Well‑draining soil—sandy or rocky is fine.
• Water deeply when the top few inches of soil feels dry. In Arizona, that’s usually once a week in spring, twice a week in midsummer. Avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot.

Once or twice a year, oregano sends up nectar‑rich flowers that draw bees, butterflies, and hoverflies—another reason to tuck it near veggies.

3. Control Oregano’s Spread in Containers

My trusty whiskey barrel planter has hosted the same oregano plant since 2019. A quick haircut each spring and fall, plus a layer of compost, is all the maintenance it needs.

• Use a 12 in / 30 cm‑deep container with high‑quality potting mix—not garden soil.
• One plant per pot. It will quickly fill the container.
• Water when the top couple of inches are dry; pots dry faster than ground soil.
• Refresh with compost each spring and prune back by ⅓ for lush regrowth.

More container tips? See my full Container Gardening Guide.

4. Feed Lightly, Mulch Wisely

Oregano isn’t fussy—no extra fertilizer or thick mulch needed.

• Add 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm of compost each spring.
• Lightly mulch with shredded bark or straw to conserve moisture—but pull it back 2 in / 5 cm from stems to prevent rot.

5. Pair Oregano With Almost Any Vegetable

Add a pot or two of oregano around your garden to attract beneficial insects. Learn about more plants that attract beneficial insects in this guide.

• Tomatoes, broccoli, and cabbage especially benefit—oregano flowers attract hover flies that devour aphids.

6. Harvest Early and Often

Because oregano is perennial, I snip what I need all year. After a big spring or fall haircut, the surplus goes to my happy chickens. Learn about more of my favorite perennial herbs in this guide.

• Begin cutting when plants reach 6–8 in / 15–20 cm tall.
• The more you snip, the more it grows.
• Strip leaves by pinching the tip and sliding your fingers down the stem.

Prune flower spikes after bloom to keep leaves tender and encourage fresh growth.

7. Preserve Peak Flavor

When I have extra, often after those twice‑a‑year trims, freeze‑drying is my go‑to for the freshest flavor. Curious? Check out my Freeze‑Drying Herbs Guide.

• Air‑dry: Hang small bunches out of direct sun until crisp; store whole leaves in jars, then crumble when needed.
• Freeze: Seal sprigs in freezer bags or purée leaves with a splash of olive oil, pour into ice‑cube trays, and freeze.
• Freeze‑dry: My favorite—maintains color and aroma for up to a year.

8. How to Grow Oregano in Arizona

One of the easiest perennial herbs for hot climates—perfect for beginners. Grab even more desert‑herb tips in my Growing Herbs in Summer Heat Guide.

• Planting Windows: February–April and October–November.
• Provide afternoon shade from June through September.
• Divide overgrown clumps in February or March.
• After summer heat and again in early spring, prune back ⅓, top‑dress with compost, and water deeply for a quick rebound.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

9. Bring Oregano Indoors

Growing inside? You’ll need a decent grow light—bright kitchen windows rarely cut it, but oregano will thrive under LEDs.

• Light: South‑facing window or grow light (12 hrs / day) set 2–4 in / 5–10 cm above foliage.
• Temp: Keep above 80 °F / 27 °C for best growth; avoid drafts.
• Airflow: Thin plants to 6 in / 15 cm apart and rotate pots when watering.
• Harvest: Snip once stems exceed 6 in / 15 cm.

10. Watering & Troubleshooting at a Glance

Ready to Plant?

For a quick reference to spacing, timing, and care, see my Visual Guide to Growing Herbs—it’s packed with photos and information to get you started. Questions? Ask me below, or share your own oregano success stories.

If this post about how to grow oregano was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Oregano appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Why Grow Sage?

Sage is a popular Mediterranean herb known for its wooly, gray-green aromatic leaves. It’s hardy to USDA zones 4-8 and is particularly well-suited to desert areas, thanks to its tolerance for hot weather, poor soil, and minimal water. In addition to its culinary uses, sage produces spikes of purple flowers that attract pollinators and beneficial insects, adding beauty and biodiversity to your garden. Sage made the list of the top plants to attract beneficial insects to your garden.

Getting Started: Planting Sage

Starting Sage Seeds Indoors

Growing sage from seed can be challenging, but if growing sage from seed, here’s how to do it:

1. Start seeds indoors about 2 months before the last frost.
2. Sow 2-3 seeds 1/4″ (.6 cm) deep in individual containers.
3. Once germination occurs, thin to one plant per container.
4. Pot up into three-inch pots when plants are 2-3 inches (5-7 inches) tall and have 2 sets of leaves.
5. After the last frost, transplant the seedlings outside, spacing them 12 inches (30cm) apart.

One benefit of growing sage indoors is you can select the timing and variety. Learn more about how to start seeds indoors in this blog post.

Using Transplants

For those who prefer a quicker start, transplants are a fantastic option:

1. Look for healthy, sturdy plants with green leaves and multiple stems in three inch (7 cm) or larger pots. Avoid leggy or root-bound plants.
2. Transplant these into your garden after all danger of frost has passed in early spring.

Soil and Location

1. Sunlight: Choose a location that gets plenty of sun. Although sage is drought tolerant, afternoon shade can be beneficial in hot summer climates.
2. Soil: Sage tolerates various soils but thrives in well-draining soil. Sage tolerates dry conditions and poor soil but will die in soggy and not well-drained soil. 
3. Spacing: Plants should be spaced about 12 inches (30 cm) apart in the garden. Sage will grow to about 2 feet (60 cm) wide if allowed.

Try Different Varieties of Sage

Experiment with different varieties of sage to add variety to your garden and kitchen. Some popular types of sage include:

Purple Sage

Recognized by its distinctive purple-hued leaves, Purple Sage provides both color and flavor. It has a similar taste to Common Sage, though slightly milder, making it a beautiful and functional addition to herb gardens and ornamental beds.

Dwarf Sage

Dwarf Sage grows more compactly, making it ideal for smaller gardens or container planting. Its leaves and flavor profile are similar to Common Sage, but its petite size allows for easier harvesting and better use of limited garden space.

Common Sage

Common Sage is the go-to variety for culinary sage use. It has the classic, earthy, and slightly peppery flavor most cooks know and love. Its gray-green leaves can be harvested throughout the season, and it’s a resilient choice for beginner gardeners.

Tri-Color Sage

Known for its eye-catching blend of green, white, and pinkish-purple leaves, Tri-Color Sage is primarily grown as an ornamental variety. It’s also edible, though many gardeners prefer to use it sparingly or alongside more robust-tasting sage types for a visual pop in the kitchen.

Gold-Variegated Sage

Gold-variegated sage has green leaves with golden or cream-colored edges, adding a bright accent to the herb bed. Its taste is similar to Common Sage, but its main appeal is the striking leaf coloration, which can liven up both your garden and your dishes.

How to Grow Sage in Containers

If you’re limited on garden bed space or prefer the flexibility of container gardening, sage also does well in pots. Learn how to grow sage in containers with these tips:

1. Choose the Right Pot: Select a pot at least 12 inches (30cm) tall. I like terra cotta pots, as their porous nature allows sage roots to breathe.
2. Ensure Proper Drainage: Make sure your container has drainage holes to prevent soggy roots.
3. Watering: Water deeply but infrequently, especially during the hottest months. Sage can rot in overly wet soil.
4. Location: Place the container in a sunny spot, preferably with afternoon shade in hot climates.

Learn more about how to garden in containers in this blog post.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

Care & Maintenance

Watering: Although sage is drought-tolerant, it benefits from regular watering, especially in the first year. Once established, allowing the soil to dry out between watering is important to prevent root rot.

Fertilizing: Add compost occasionally to improve nutrient levels. Learn how to make compost in this blogpost.

Spring and Fall Pruning: At the end of winter or summer, prune sage back when you see new growth at the base. Prune to remove dead wood and for shape. This rejuvenates the plant and encourages fresh growth. This is a good time to top with compost.

Longevity: Sage plants become woody after about 5 years and may need to be replaced. In very cold areas, mulch sage in winter to protect it from extreme temperatures.

Pest Management

Sage is susceptible to various pests, including slugs, spider mites, spittlebugs, aphids, and whiteflies. Often, damage is minor and best left untreated. For organic and minimally invasive treatments, consider the following options:

1. Handpicking: Handpicking can be an effective method for larger pests like slugs.
   
2. Natural Predators: Encourage beneficial insects and animals, such as ladybugs, lacewings, spiders, and birds, which are natural predators of many pests.
   
3. Organic Insecticidal Soaps: These are usually safe for the plant but deadly for small pests like mites and aphids. They work by covering the pests and dehydrating them. Unfortunately, they can also kill beneficial insects. Use sparingly and only if the plant’s life is threatened.

Harvesting sage

• First-Year Harvest: Individual leaves can be harvested once the plant is established.
• Subsequent Years: Cut stems to within 6 inches of the base just as flowers start to open.

Harvest sage leaves as needed year-round. When harvesting, take a few leaves from each stem. This will help the plants continue to grow and produce more sage for you to use. Always use clean scissors or pruners when harvesting. Enjoy adding fresh leaves to your favorite dishes.

Many varieties of sage bear edible flowers. Harvest flower spikes to encourage a second flush of blooms. Unlike other herbs, sage leaves are still delicious after the plant flowers. 

Storage and Usage

Dry sage to enjoy later. Dry sage leaves on a screen in a well-ventilated area. I like these herb-drying screens from Amazon. You can also tie several branches together and hang them upside down. Allowing leaves to dry slowly prevents them from becoming moldy. Once leaves are completely dry, store them in airtight jars for the best flavor. 

Freeze drying is an excellent way to preserve sage. This preservation method is ideal for longer-term storage, allowing you to enjoy the fresh flavor of sage long after it has been harvested. Learn more about how to freeze dry herbs in this blog post.

For a convenient, shelf-stable way to preserve your produce, be sure to read our guide on how to freeze dry.

Tips for How to Grow Sage in Arizona

Sage is one of the easiest herbs to grow year-round in the low desert of Arizona. Learn about more of my favorite perennial herbs for hot climates in this blog post. Here are a few tips for how to grow sage in Arizona.

• Plant sage in October or November or from February to April.
• Choose an area with excellent drainage. I like to plant sage in the corners of raised beds, allowing the plants to spill over the sides.
• During the hottest months, water sage deeply but infrequently. Sage rots easily in hot, wet soil. 
• I usually cut back my sage once or twice during the year. This is also a good time to trim any dead or diseased stems. Either in the spring, after the danger of frost has passed, or in the fall, after summer’s hottest temperatures are over and nighttime temperatures are beginning to fall.
• After pruning, I top the sage with some fresh compost. The sage recovers quickly and puts on a flush of new growth.

Learn more about how to grow herbs in hot summer climates in this blog post.

Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona, and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

If this post about how to grow sage was helpful, please share it.

The post Growing Sage appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If you haven’t started growing your own lavender yet, I highly recommend taking a look at my posts on How to Grow Lavender and How to Choose the Best Lavender Variety. These guides will set you up for success—especially if you’re gardening in hot summer climates.

When & How to Harvest Lavender

• Harvest when the first few flowers on the buds on a stem have opened. This sweet spot captures peak fragrance and oil content.
• Snip your lavender after the dew evaporates but before the midday sun intensifies.
• Use clean scissors or pruners, cutting just above the leafy part of the stem. (Avoid the woody, brown section.)

Drying & Storing Lavender

• Tie small handfuls of stems with twine or rubber bands and hang them upside down in a dry, shady area.
• Too much light can bleach the blooms and reduce their natural oils.
• In arid climates, lavender may dry in as little as a week. The stems should snap easily when fully dried.
• Once it’s dry, store buds in airtight containers away from bright light to preserve color and scent for up to a year.

Favorite Ways to Use Lavender

Culinary Uses:

• Herbes de Provence: Blend dried lavender with rosemary, thyme, oregano, and marjoram for a classic French seasoning.
• Lavender Sugar or Syrup: Infuse sugar or simple syrup for lemonade, cocktails, baked goods, or ice cream.
• Sweet vs. Savory: Royal Velvet and other English types are ideal for desserts; lavandins like ‘Provence’ are great in savory dishes.

If you love adding a floral touch to recipes, be sure to check out my post on growing and using edible flowers – it’s full of ideas for adding blossoms to your dishes.

Relaxation & Self-Care:

• Create small sachets or eye pillows to enjoy that soothing aroma at bedtime. These are the bags I use from Amazon.
• If you use essential oils, add a drop or two of lavender or a headache salve to your bath.

Craft Projects:

• Lavender Loofah Soap: This is my personal favorite! It’s a fun way to combine homegrown lavender with dried loofah slices. If you want more ideas for working with loofahs, read this post about What to Do with Loofah.
• You can also find more DIY inspiration (like making holiday gifts) in Gifts from the Garden: Homegrown Holiday Ideas.

Share the Love

• Neighbor Gifts: Giving small bags of dried lavender is a sweet gesture if you’re short on time. Or, check out Neighbor Gifts: Wildflower Seed Packets for another quick, garden-inspired idea.

Experiment with different varieties, harvest times, and creative uses—you’ll quickly see why lavender remains a beloved herb for cooks, crafters, and gardeners alike.

The post Harvesting, Drying, and Using Lavender appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If you live in a desert region like Arizona, you’ll need a heat-tolerant lavender that can handle blazing sun. If your climate is more temperate, you’ll have a wider range of options. Either way, success starts with picking the right variety. Yes, you can grow lavender in a place as hot as Arizona—you just have to choose wisely. Let’s get to it!

Article Index:

• Lavender 101: The Main Types
• Matching Lavender to Your Zone
• Best Lavenders for Hot Climates
• What to Expect When Growing Lavender in Hot Climates
• Final Tips for Choosing Lavender

Lavender 101: The Main Types

English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

• Best for: Cooler climates, USDA zones 5–8 (some varieties hardy to zone 4).
• Key Traits: Classic “true” lavender aroma, typically used in perfumes and culinary recipes. English lavender cultivars like ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’ are known for their deep purple flowers and strong fragrance.
• Climate Tips: Prefers moderate summers and tolerates chilly winters. In hot areas, it may need afternoon shade to avoid heat stress.

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

• Best for: Warm, dry climates (zones 7–9).
• Key Traits: Distinctive “rabbit ear” bracts atop the flower heads; blooms heavily in spring.
• Climate Tips: Thrives in Mediterranean-like conditions—mild winters, hot/dry summers. Generally less cold-hardy than English types.

French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)

• Best for: Mild winter regions (zones 8–9), including low desert areas if given some summer shade.
• Key Traits: Serrated (“toothed”) leaves, subtle but pleasant fragrance. Often blooms nearly year-round in frost-free regions.
• Climate Tips: Frost-sensitive below ~15 °F; does well with well-drained soil and moderate watering.

Lavandin Hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia)

• Best for: A wide range of zones (roughly 5–9).
• Key Traits: Hybrids of English and spike lavender; typically larger plants, very fragrant. Common examples include ‘Provence,’ ‘Grosso,’ and ‘Phenomenal.’
• Climate Tips: More heat-tolerant than pure English lavender and moderately cold-hardy. Ideal for regions with hot summers and moderate winters.

Matching Lavender to Your Zone

• Cool Climates (Zones 3–5)
  Look for extra-hardy L. angustifolia varieties (e.g., ‘Munstead’ or ‘SuperBlue’). Provide winter mulch and ensure excellent drainage to prevent root rot in snow and freezing temps.
  
• Moderate Climates (Zones 6–8)
  You have the greatest choice—English, French, Spanish, and Lavandin all can thrive. Focus on your personal preference for flower style (e.g., “bunny ears” on Spanish) and scent (English tends to be sweet, and Lavandin often has a sharper fragrance).
  
• Hot, Dry Climates (Zones 9–10)
  Spanish lavender, French lavender, and Lavandin hybrids are your best bet—particularly if you have mild winters. These types tolerate intense sun, alkaline soils, and lower water conditions well. Provide afternoon shade if summer temps soar above 100 °F.

Best Lavenders for Hot Climates

Here are some of the best lavender varieties for hot climates, including desert regions like Arizona. These varieties can handle intense sun, high temperatures, and dry conditions while still producing beautiful, fragrant blooms.

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

• Why it thrives in heat: Native to the Mediterranean, this variety loves warm, dry conditions.
• What makes it unique: Recognizable by its “rabbit ear” bracts on top of deep purple flowers.
• Best for: Hot, arid regions with mild winters (Zones 7–9).
• Care tip: Tolerates full sun but benefits from occasional deadheading to extend blooming.

French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)

• Why it thrives in heat: Handles long, hot summers and mild winters better than English lavender.
• What makes it unique: Soft, gray-green leaves with a serrated edge and a slightly different scent.
• Best for: Zones 8–9, especially areas with alkaline soil and minimal frost. Excellent landscape plant. My top choice for lavender here in the low desert.
• Care tip: Blooms for extended periods in warm climates; prune lightly to maintain shape.

Lavandin ‘Provence’ (Lavandula x intermedia ‘Provence’)

• Why it thrives in heat: A hybrid of English and spike lavender, making it more tolerant of both heat and humidity.
• What makes it unique: Known for its tall flower spikes and strong, sweet fragrance.
• Best for: Zones 6–9; widely grown in commercial lavender farms.
• Care tip: Requires excellent drainage to prevent root rot in hot weather.

‘Goodwin Creek Gray’ (Lavandula x ginginsii)

• Why it thrives in heat: One of the most heat- and drought-tolerant lavenders.
• What makes it unique: Silvery-gray foliage with deep purple flower spikes.
• Best for: Hot climates, including desert areas, as long as the soil drains well.
• Care tip: Does well in containers but must have fast-draining soil.

Fern Leaf Lavender (Lavandula multifida)

• Why it thrives in heat: Tolerates dry conditions and blooms almost year-round in warm regions.
• What makes it unique: Feathery, fern-like foliage with a milder lavender scent.
• Best for: Hot, dry climates where traditional lavender struggles. Grows well in containers.
• Care tip: Blooms continuously with light trimming; a great choice for attracting pollinators and hummingbirds.

What to Expect When Growing Lavender in Hot Climates

Even heat-tolerant lavender varieties may struggle during peak summer temperatures. It’s normal for plants to look a little stressed, with some leaf curling or minor browning. However, once temperatures cool slightly, they will bounce back and continue blooming. Providing well-draining soil, occasional deep watering, and light afternoon shade in extreme heat can help keep your plants healthy.

Don’t forget to use the blooms! Learn more about edible flowers in this guide.

By choosing the right lavender variety for your hot climate, you’ll enjoy beautiful, fragrant blooms even in tough growing conditions. Lavender makes an excellent companion plant for your garden, learn more in this guide.

Final Tips for Choosing Lavender

• Check Local Nurseries – They often stock varieties proven to thrive in your area.
• Know Your Soil – Lavender needs excellent drainage, so be prepared to amend heavy or clay soils.
• Start Small – Grow a few different varieties to see which performs best before planting en masse.
• Experiment – Different areas of your yard may be better suited to growing lavender.

Don’t give up! The beautiful lavender blooms and the pollinators they attract year after year are worth the effort to find the right plant for the right spot in your yard.

Next step? Learn how to grow and care for lavender in desert conditions—read this article to learn how. Want to make the most of your lavender? Check out my full guide on harvesting, drying, and using lavender for all the details

Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like

Lavender thrives alongside other sun-loving, low-water plants. Check out our grow guides for:

• Texas Mountain Laurel
• Rosemary

Both share similar watering and soil conditions, so they’re great companions. You can also explore our guide to hot-climate perennial herbs.

Source: Mielke, Judy. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. University of Texas Press, Austin, 1993.

If this post about the best lavender varieties for hot climates was helpful, please share it.

The post Best Lavender Varieties For Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

• Why Lavender Thrives in Hot Climates
• Best Lavender Varieties for Hot Climates
• Best Planting Times: Fall or Spring
• Care Tips for Growing Lavender in Hot Climates
• Harvesting Your Lavender
• Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
• Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like
• Final Thoughts

Why Lavender Thrives in Hot Climates

Many lavender species originated in Mediterranean regions with rocky soils, strong sun, and minimal rainfall—conditions similar to what many “hot climate” gardeners experience. While some lavender varieties handle cold better, others are especially suited to heat. If you pick the right type and respect its water and drainage needs, lavender can flourish even in tough, scorching conditions.

Best Lavender Varieties for Hot Climates

• Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)
• French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)
• Fern-Leaf Lavender (Lavandula multifida)

Check out my detailed post on the best lavender varieties for hot climates for full descriptions and tips on each type.

Lavender makes an excellent warm-season companion plant for your garden, learn more in this guide.

Lavender is also a great choice for attracting beneficial pollinators, especially bees and butterflies. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Best Planting Times: Fall or Spring

If you live in a hot climate, fall or early spring are the best times to plant lavender. Here’s why:

• Fall: Planting in the fall gives lavender time to establish roots before the stress of extreme summer heat or cold snaps. The cooler nights also reduce evaporation and stress on new transplants.
• Early Spring: Spring is another good option if fall gets too cold in your area. Planting in the spring allows the lavender to settle in during milder conditions, gearing up for strong growth before summer temperatures soar.

Both seasons offer moderate temperatures that help lavender develop a robust root system.

Care Tips for Growing Lavender in Hot Climates

1. Choose a Sunny Spot

Lavender needs full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours a day. Aim for plenty of morning sun and a bit of afternoon shade in very hot areas if possible.

2. Provide Excellent Drainage

Soil drainage is often the deciding factor in whether lavender thrives or struggles. If you have clay or poorly draining soil, amend your soil with sand, gravel, or a cactus mix to promote drainage. Lavender is prone to root rot in heavy, wet soils.

Tip: Dig the planting hole and fill it with water; it should drain within an hour or two. If the water remains longer, improve the drainage or pick another spot.

3. Irrigation Strategy

• Cool Season (fall/winter/spring): Provide moderate, regular water while your lavender is actively growing or blooming.
• Hot Summer: Reduce watering drastically. Deep soaks once or twice a month are enough for established plants. Overwatering can harm lavender, especially in high heat.

4. Light Mulching

Lavender doesn’t need (or want) thick mulch that retains excess moisture. A thin layer of non-organic mulch (gravel or rocks) helps control weeds and moderate soil temperature. Keep it away from the stems—piling mulch around the base can create moisture problems. A light top-dressing of compost each fall is usually all the fertilization lavender needs.

5. Gentle Pruning

• When to Prune: In the fall as new growth emerges or right after the main bloom flush.
• How Much to Remove: Only trim back the top few inches of green growth. Avoid cutting into the older woody stems—lavender often struggles to regrow from heavy cuts.

6. Expect Summer Dormancy

As temperatures climb in the summer, lavender will go somewhat dormant. The plant will not look its best. Don’t prune, fertilize, or over water. As temperatures moderate in the fall you will see new growth and signs of life. Get more tips for growing perennial herbs in hot summer climates in this guide.

Harvesting Your Lavender

• Harvest just as the flower buds begin to open. Early morning is best, when the essential oils are at their peak.
• Use sharp shears to snip stems a few inches above the foliage. Gather the stems into small bundles to hang and dry.
• Don’t forget to use the blooms! Learn more about edible flowers in this guide. Dried lavender makes aromatic sachets, bouquets, and wreaths or can even be added to certain culinary dishes (e.g., herbes de Provence).

Want to make the most of your lavender? Check out my full guide on harvesting, drying, and using lavender for all the details

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Why is my lavender dying or not growing well?

• Overwatering: Lavender roots hate constant moisture. A soggy bed or daily watering often leads to wilt and root rot.
• Too Much Mulch: Thick, damp mulch traps moisture at the base, inviting fungal issues. Use organic mulch sparingly and keep it off the stems.
• Wrong Variety: Some lavenders just aren’t suited for high heat. See our guide to the best lavender varieties for hot climates to choose one adapted to your region.

When should I prune lavender?

• It’s best to prune lightly in the fall. Avoid heavy pruning in spring or summer when plants are actively flowering or enduring stress from heat.

How often should I water lavender in a hot, dry climate?

• After being established, a deep soak once or twice a month in summer is enough. Younger plants may need more frequent watering while roots are established.

My lavender looks haggard—can I cut it back hard?

• Lavender doesn’t regenerate easily from older woody stems. Stick to light trimming of green growth rather than cutting back severely into wood.

Does lavender need fertilizer?

• Generally, no. A small amount of compost in early fall is sufficient. Overfertilizing can cause rapid growth that’s prone to disease and rot.

Can I prune lavender all the way back to the woody stems?

• This is usually discouraged. Severe pruning into old wood may stunt the plant’s ability to recover, especially during the hot, dormant season.

What about pests or diseases?

• Lavender is fairly pest-resistant. Root rot or fungal diseases usually come from too much water and poor drainage, so keep the soil well-drained and don’t overwater.

Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like

Lavender thrives alongside other sun-loving, low-water plants. Check out our grow guides for:

• Texas Mountain Laurel
• Rosemary
• Hyssop

Both share similar watering and soil conditions, so they’re great companions. You can also explore our guide to other perennial herbs if you want to fill your garden with more Mediterranean favorites that thrive in hot, dry climates.

Final Thoughts

Hot climates don’t have to be a barrier to growing lavender. By choosing a variety suited for heat, planting at the right time, and giving your plants the right balance of water and drainage, you’ll enjoy stunning blooms and calming fragrances for many seasons to come.

Source: Mielke, Judy. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. University of Texas Press, Austin, 1993.

If this post about how to grow lavender in hot climates was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Lavender in Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Dill thrives in cooler weather, making it perfect for fall and winter gardens in hot climates. If you want a continuous supply of fresh dill, follow these tips to plant, grow, and harvest it at the right time for your climate.

Article Index:

• When to Plant Dill
• Best Dill Varieties to Grow
• How to Plant Dill
• Caring for Dill
• Understanding Bolting in Dill
• Harvesting Dill
• How to Use and Preserve Dill
• Grow Dill as a Companion Plant

When to Plant Dill

Dill is a cool-season herb that prefers mild temperatures. It bolts quickly if it gets too hot, meaning it flowers and sets seed sooner than expected. Plant at the right time for your climate to get the longest harvest window.

Best Time to Plant Dill by Climate

Cold Climates (Frosty Winters, Mild Summers)

• Plant outdoors: 2-4 weeks before your last spring frost when soil temperatures reach 50-70°F (10-21°C).
• Succession plant every three weeks for a continuous harvest into early summer.
• Fall planting: Possible in early fall, but hard frost will kill it.

Mild Climates (Temperate, No Harsh Winters)

• Spring planting: A few weeks before your last frost and continue through early summer.
• Fall planting: Plant in late summer or early fall for a winter harvest.
• Dill may overwinter in mild regions with protection from frost.

Hot Climates (Mild Winters, Hot Summers – Like Arizona & the South)

• Plant in fall and winter when temperatures cool down.
• In the low desert (e.g., Phoenix, AZ):
  • Best planting window: October through January.
  • Succession plant every three weeks for a steady supply. Learn more about succession planting in this guide.
  • Bolts quickly in late spring, so plant early to extend the season.

If you’re unsure when to plant, look up your last frost date and plant 2-4 weeks before it in spring or once temperatures drop below 80°F (27°C) in fall.

Best Dill Varieties to Grow

Different dill varieties offer unique benefits, whether you’re growing for leaves, seeds, or an extended harvest season.

• Bouquet dill has large blooms and seed heads. Excellent for pickling. 
• Dukat dill is darker green with large seed heads. Excellent for pickling. 
• Fernleaf dill is slow to bolt and suitable for growing indoors and in containers.
• Tetra dill is a bushy, late-flowering variety and somewhat more heat-tolerant.

How to Plant Dill

Dill has a long taproot, so growing from seeds rather than transplants is best. If you use transplants, choose young seedlings and carefully handle the roots to prevent bolting.

Planting Dill Outdoors

• Choose a location with rich, loose soil and full sun. Dill can tolerate partial shade but may need support in lower light conditions.
• Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost for nutrients.
• Sow seeds 1/8–1/4 inch (2–6 mm) deep directly into the garden.
• Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate (typically in 7-14 days).
• Thin seedlings to 12 inches (30 cm) apart once they reach several inches tall.
• Apply mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Dill also grows well in containers—use a pot at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep to accommodate its long taproot. Learn about other crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

How to Grow Dill Indoors

Dill can be grown indoors with the right conditions:

• Use an unglazed terra-cotta pot at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep for good drainage.
• Water only when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering.
• Provide supplemental lighting for 10-11 hours daily. Position grow lights 6 inches (15 cm) above the plant.
• Keep indoor temperatures between 60-80°F (16-27°C).
• Dill does not require supplemental feeding—it grows well in nutrient-rich soil.

Caring for Dill

Dill is low-maintenance, but keeping up with basic care ensures a healthy, productive plant.

• Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch helps retain moisture.
• Sunlight: Dill grows best in full sun but tolerates partial shade.
• Pest Control: Aphids may appear—wait for beneficial insects like ladybugs or rinse off with water. Learn more about how to prevent garden pests organically in this blog post.
• Disease Prevention: Powdery mildew can occur—ensure good air circulation and space plants properly. Get tips for treating powdery mildew in this guide.

Understanding Bolting in Dill

Bolting is when a plant shifts from leafy growth to flowering and seed production earlier than expected. Once dill bolts, the leaves become less flavorful, and the plant puts all its energy into producing flowers and seeds.

Why Does Dill Bolt?

Dill naturally bolts as part of its life cycle, but certain conditions can cause it to bolt faster than usual:

• High Temperatures – Dill is a cool-season herb and bolts quickly when temperatures rise above 80°F (27°C).
• Day Length – Longer daylight hours signal the plant to flower and set seed.
• Transplant Shock – Dill has a long taproot and does best when direct-seeded. Transplanting can stress the plant and trigger bolting.
• Lack of Harvesting – Regularly harvesting the top leaves can delay bolting and encourage bushier growth.

Like carrots, dill can bolt early in response to weather—learn more in Why Carrots Bolt in Their First Year (And What You Can Do About It).

How to Prevent Premature Bolting

While all dill plants will eventually bolt, you can slow the process by:

• Planting at the Right Time – Grow dill in the cooler months of spring or fall, depending on your climate.
• Providing Light Shade – In warm regions, growing dill in partial shade can help extend the season.
• Succession Planting – Sowing seeds every three weeks ensures a steady supply of fresh leaves.
• Harvesting Frequently – Regularly snipping off the top leaves delays bolting and encourages leafy growth.

Once your dill bolts, don’t remove it immediately! The flowers attract pollinators and beneficial insects, and the seeds can be harvested for cooking or replanting next season.

Gardening has a language of its own, but it doesn’t have to be confusing. Use the Gardening Glossary to quickly look up unfamiliar words—like bolting—and build confidence as you learn.

Harvesting Dill

Dill is grown for two main reasons: its feathery leaves (dill weed) and its seeds.

Harvesting Leaves:

• Begin harvesting once the plant has 4-5 sets of leaves.
• Snip from the top instead of the outer leaves to encourage bushy growth and delay bolting.
• Use fresh for the best flavor—dill doesn’t dry well but can be frozen or freeze-dried.

Harvesting Seeds:

Dill seeds are ready to harvest after 85-115 days. Seeds have the best flavor if harvested just as they turn from green to brown. Harvest seeds by cutting the stalks at the base and storing them upside down in a paper sack. Seeds will fall into the bottom of the sack.

To avoid dill reseeding in your garden, harvest the seed heads before the seeds dry and begin falling off. You can save seeds for culinary use from just one plant, but if you want to save seeds, it’s best to have at least five plants to ensure a wide gene pool. Learn more about how to save seeds in this blog post.

• Cut the seed heads before they fully dry.
• Place seed heads in a paper bag to catch falling seeds.

How to Use and Preserve Dill

Dill is incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Here’s how to use it:

Cooking with Dill

• Fresh dill pairs well with fish, potatoes, eggs, and vegetables.
• Add it to salad dressings, dips, and yogurt sauces.
• A key ingredient in pickles and fermented vegetables.
• Chop fresh dill over roasted vegetables or grain bowls for a burst of flavor.

How to Preserve Dill

Because we can’t grow dill year-round, I appreciate it more and harvest often during the growing season. It’s best fresh from the garden! You can preserve it by freezing or freeze drying. Drying or dehydrating doesn’t have the flavor of fresh.

• Saving Seeds: Store dried dill seeds in an airtight container for pickling, seasoning, or replanting next season.
• Freezing: Chop fresh dill and freeze it in ice cube trays with a little water or oil.
• Freeze Drying: Retains the most flavor for long-term storage.
• Drying: Dill can be dehydrated, but it loses much of its flavor.

Learn more about the best way to preserve herbs – freeze drying!

Grow Dill as a Companion Plant

Dill isn’t just for the kitchen—it’s also a pollinator powerhouse!

Dill flowers attract:

• Ladybugs, parasitic wasps, hoverflies, lacewings, and tachinid flies — all of which help control garden pests. Learn more about attracting ladybugs to your garden in this guide.
• Butterflies! Dill is a host plant for swallowtail butterfly larvae, including Arizona’s state butterfly, the two-tailed swallowtail.
• Birds love dill seeds! Goldfinches frequently feast on dried dill seed heads.

Dill attracts beneficial insects that protect cucumbers from aphids and other pests. Find out how to use herbs like dill effectively in this post on cucumber companion planting.

For a pollinator-friendly garden, let some dill plants flower and go to seed. The nectar-rich blooms provide food for beneficial insects, and the seeds support local bird populations. Learn more about my favorite cool-season and warm-season companion plants in these guides.

Read this post for more information about growing herbs in the low desert of Arizona.

Dill is one of my favorite cool-season herbs for a reason—it’s easy to grow, delicious in the kitchen, and a magnet for pollinators. By planting at the right time for your climate and succession planting every few weeks, you’ll enjoy a steady harvest of fresh dill all season long.

If you enjoyed this post about growing dill, please share it.

The post How to Grow Dill: Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Tips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

1. When is the best time to plant basil?
2. How to care for basil plants
3. How to prune basil for larger yields
4. Plant extra basil for the pollinators and allow it to flower
5. Best companion plants for basil
6. How to harvest basil
7. How to use and preserve basil
8. How to grow basil in Arizona
9. How to grow basil in containers
10. How to grow basil indoors

10 Tips For How to Grow Basil

When is the best time to plant basil?

One of the most popular herbs to grow, basil (Ocimum basilicum) is a warm-weather fragrant herb in the mint family whose flowers attract native bees. Learn how to grow mint in this guide. It is also a favorite culinary herb, treasured for its color and flavor. In all but the warmest regions (zone 10 and higher), basil is grown as an annual and will grow until the first frost.

Emerald Towers Basil — My Go-To Variety

If you want nonstop, high-quality leaves all summer, Emerald Towers is the basil to beat. This columnar variety grows straight up (about 24-36 in/60-90 cm tall) and stays narrow, so it tucks neatly into containers or the corners of raised beds without shading neighbors. Even better, it’s slow to flower, which means you get weeks of sweet-flavored leaves before needing to pinch buds. Want to add it to your garden? You can find Emerald Towers basil seeds here.

Basil grows best in warm (even hot) conditions. The best time to plant basil is when nighttime temperatures are above 70℉. Don’t rush putting transplants outside; basil prefers warm air and soil.

• Start seeds indoors 2-4 weeks before planting basil outside.
• Plant seeds outside about ¼ inch deep and 10-12 inches apart when nighttime temperatures are above 70℉.
• Plant transplants at the depth of the container about 12-18 inches apart, depending on the variety of basil.
• Plant basil in an area that gets full sun.

How to care for basil plants

Basil likes well-draining soil. It’s important to water basil regularly so it doesn’t dry out and become bitter. Mulching plants also helps to preserve moisture. During hot weather and dry periods, water basil deeply and regularly.

Basil likes high levels of nitrogen. Plant basil in soil rich in organic matter that has been amended with compost. Amend as needed with additional compost or organic fertilizer.

How to prune basil for larger yields

The secret to large basil harvests begins when the plants are young. Early pruning encourages a large bushy plant with abundant basil harvests. Here’s how to do it:

• When basil is about 6” tall, cut the middle stem down to just above the second set of leaves. 2 new stems will grow back in the middle stem’s place. Cutting back at this early stage of development encourages the plant to branch and produce additional leaves.  
• As the plant grows, continue cutting each branch back to the second set of leaves and removing the center shoot of basil to discourage blooming.
• To encourage continued growth, cut back flowers as they appear.

Plant extra basil for the pollinators and allow it to flower

Planting extra basil for pollinators is a great way to attract and support beneficial insects, add beauty, and help support your garden’s ecosystem. Some pollinators attracted to basil include bees, hoverflies, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Follow the directions for pruning basil for larger yields (see above tip) so the plant is large and full. Once the basil plant has reached a good size, allow the plant to continue growing without harvesting any leaves or pruning the plant. Eventually, the plant will produce small, white, or pink flowers on long, thin stems. These flowers attract pollinators to your garden, which can help improve the yield of other plants that require pollination.

Try planting different types of basil, such as lemon basil or cinnamon basil, to attract a wider variety of pollinators. Learn about other plants that attract beneficial insects in this guide.

If you’re looking to diversify your herb garden, be sure to check out my comprehensive guide on how to grow sage.

Best companion plants for basil

Tomatoes are excellent companion plants for basil; introduce them to each other while growing and in the kitchen.

Basil and tomatoes are commonly grown together as companion plants because they have a mutually-beneficial relationship. Basil repels insects that are harmful to tomato plants, such as tomato hornworms and whiteflies. The strong scent of basil may mask the scent of the tomato plant, making it harder for pests to find them. In addition, basil attracts beneficial insects like bees and butterflies that help pollinate tomato flowers.

On the other hand, tomatoes release chemicals into the soil that can help improve the growth and flavor of basil. This is because tomatoes are heavy feeders, meaning they take up a lot of nutrients from the soil, and, in turn, they can leave behind nutrients that other plants can use. Basil is also thought to enhance the flavor of tomatoes when they are grown together. Learn more about companion planting in this guide. For more companion plants for warm-season gardens read this guide.

Overall, growing basil and tomatoes together is a great way to protect your tomato plants from pests and promote healthy growth and flavor. Get the recipe for Garden Fresh Tomato and Basil Pasta here.

How to harvest basil

Harvest basil plants regularly, removing only one-third of the basil plant at a time (even if you are not using it) to encourage branching and production. Harvesting basil so it keeps on growing is simple, here’s how:

How to harvest basil so it keeps on growing

• Wait for the right time: Begin harvesting basil when plants are 6-8″ tall.
• Choose the right time of day: Harvest basil in the morning, after the dew has dried, and before the sun gets too hot. This is when the essential oils in the leaves are most concentrated, making the basil more flavorful.
• Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears: This will help prevent damage to the plant and reduce the risk of disease.
• Cut the stems just above a set of leaves: This will encourage the plant to grow new branches and leaves, leading to a fuller, bushier plant. Leave at least 2 sets of leaves on each stem so the plant can continue to photosynthesize and produce energy.

If you harvest basil correctly, you can continue to enjoy fresh basil from the same plant all season.

How to use and preserve basil

• If you won’t be using basil immediately after harvesting, put the stems in a jar of cool water to keep them hydrated.
• To freeze basil, I wash freshly harvested basil in a large bowl, rinse it, and let it air dry on a dish towel. I then freeze individual leaves together in a freezer bag, pulling out individual leaves as needed. You can learn more about freezing basil here.
• These herb scissors are my favorite way to cut up fresh basil. So easy!  
• Use a large harvest of basil to make pesto.
• Add basil at the end of cooking time to help retain fresh color and flavor.
• Purée washed basil in the blender and add just enough olive oil or water to make it pourable. Then pour into ice cube trays and freeze. It’s convenient to pop one or two cubes into soups and pasta.
• Dehydrate basil to preserve the harvest.
• Freeze-drying basil preserves much of the flavor and texture of fresh basil. It’s my favorite way to preserve basil.

For a convenient, shelf-stable way to preserve your produce, be sure to read our guide on how to freeze dry.

How to grow basil in Arizona

• Start seeds indoors: January – July
• Plant seeds outside: February 15 – August
• Plant transplants outside: March – August

Basil is one of a handful of plants that grow well and thrive in the hot summers of Arizona. Learn about more crops that love hot summers in this guide. It can take full sun but does best with some afternoon shade. Mulching plants helps retain moisture and keeps weeds down.

Smaller-leaved varieties grow best in the low desert of Arizona. Be sure to provide afternoon shade for larger-leaved varieties such as Genovese. Mrs. Burns lemon basil, Siam Queen, and African Blue thrive in Arizona’s heat.

How to overwinter basil in mild winter climates

When growing basil in Arizona, the warm and dry climate can actually help the plant survive the winter. Cover plants during frost events. Learn the best way to cover plants during a freeze in this guide.

Once the danger of frost has passed in the spring, you can cut the basil plants back to encourage new growth. Wait to cut back the basil plants until new growth starts appearing. This will help stimulate the plant to produce new leaves and branches.

To cut back your basil plants, trim them down to about 6-8 inches above the soil line. Make sure to use sharp and clean pruning shears to prevent any damage to the plant. After cutting back your basil plants, you can also fertilize them with an organic fertilizer to help promote healthy growth.

However, after a season or two, basil plants can become woody and less productive. At this point, it is best to replant and start with a new plant. You can either start new plants from seed or purchase young basil plants from a nursery.

How to grow basil in containers

Basil is an excellent choice for growing in containers. Here are a few things to keep in mind when growing basil in containers:

• Basil needs well-draining soil. Always use good potting soil in the containers, not garden soil.
• Don’t overcrowd plants. Adequate airflow around basil plants is important to prevent fungus. Allow 6-8” between plants; 12” is even better.
• Don’t let containers dry out. Regular watering is key for the best-tasting basil. To see if the container needs water, use a moisture meter or stick a finger in the soil. If the top inch or two of the soil is dry, water the container. I add ollas to my containers to help with watering.
• Feed basil in containers regularly. Nutrients are leeched out of the drain hole in containers, and basil grown in containers will benefit from monthly or bi-weekly feedings from compost or organic fertilizer.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

How to grow basil indoors

To grow basil indoors, provide the light and warmth it would receive if growing outside. A sunny south-facing window may be all you need, but in most cases, additional light and warmth will be required to grow basil indoors successfully.

• Avoid drafty locations – 80℉ is the minimum temperature basil needs to thrive.
• If you are growing basil near a window, rotate the plant each time you water it to keep the growth even on all sides.

• When using a grow light, set a timer to run the light for 12 hours with the lights about 2-4″ away from the plant.
• If seedlings are leggy, they need more light (change location or put grow lights closer to leaves). Bleached-out spots on the leaves indicate the lights are too close to the seedlings.
• Thin basil to at least 6” apart to provide adequate airflow and discourage fungus.
• Begin harvesting leaves as soon as the plant is over 4” tall.

If this post about how to grow basil was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Basil: A Complete Guide to Growing and Harvesting appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index

1. Plant Calendula Throughout Your Garden as a Companion Plant
2. Plant at the Right Time for Your Climate
3. Keep Calendula Looking Good
4. Don’t Forget to Harvest
5. Use It! You’ve Grown It Organically and Know Exactly Where It Came From

1. Plant Calendula Throughout Your Garden as a Companion Plant

Calendula is one of the most popular companion plants for nearly every crop in the garden. I plant one in just about every garden bed. Calendula prefers full sun but can grow well in partial shade so that you can plant one anywhere. I try to add a flower and herb to each garden bed, and calendula is easy to add. It’s one of my favorite cool-season companion plants.

It attracts beneficial insects that help keep pest populations in check and aid in pollination, including bees, hoverflies (Syrphid flies), ladybugs, lacewings, butterflies, and other pollinators. This guide explains how to attract beneficial insects. In this guide, discover the benefits of insect hotels and learn how to effectively use them in your garden to attract beneficial bees and lacewings.

2. Plant at the Right Time for Your Climate

Calendula (also called pot marigold) prefers cool weather. Plant calendula just before the last spring frost in cold-weather climates. It tolerates temperatures down to 25°F (−4°C).

In hot summer/mild winter areas like Arizona, calendula grows best throughout the cooler months of late fall and spring. The ideal temperature range for flowering is between 60–80°F (16–27°C).

In the low desert of Arizona:

• Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – November.
• Calendula blooms in Arizona from December through May.

Get calendula seeds here.

Plant calendula seeds ¼ inches deep (6 mm) in fertile, well-draining soil. Thin seedlings to 6 to 12 inches apart (15 to 30 cm). Keep soil moist until the seeds sprout. When choosing transplants, smaller is usually better, as smaller plants adapt more easily to planting. In square-foot gardening, plant 1–4 calendula per square foot (10–40 per square meter).

3. Keep Calendula Looking Good

Calendula needs regular water; do not let the plant dry out. Keep flowers deadheaded to encourage more blooms. Calendula does not require supplemental feeding.

If it looks a bit haggard, cut plants back to about 3 inches (7.5 cm) to promote new growth. It is susceptible to powdery mildew. Learn effective powdery mildew treatments here. If a plant becomes severely infected, remove the plant and throw it in the trash (not compost).

4. Don’t Forget to Harvest

The more you harvest, the more calendula will grow. Harvest calendula blooms when the petals begin to open—fresh, young, and just fully opened. Avoid collecting heads that are already starting to dry and form seeds. You can leave those on the plant to fully dry and mature for seed-saving instead.

Calendula reseeds easily due to the many seeds produced on each bloom. Blooms left on the plant quickly develop into seeds. Calendula seeds are ready to harvest when they turn brown. Save seeds to share and plant next season. Learn more in this seed-saving guide.

5. Use It! You’ve Grown It Organically and Know Exactly Where It Came From

Calendula petals are edible. The entire calendula flower is used in salves, oils, and teas. Learn more about edible flowers.

Dry the flowers completely by dehydrating for at least 72 hours at 100°F (38°C). Store dried calendula blooms in an airtight container out of direct sunlight, and use within one year.

Here’s how I use it:

• Tea: Steep 1–2 tablespoons (15–30 ml) in 8 ounces (240 ml) of water.
• I add it to my chicken nesting boxes as a natural insect repellent and feed my chickens fresh petals. They love them, and it makes their yolks even more vibrant!

You can also make calendula oil and salve.

Calendula is easy to add to your planting list—let it reseed, and it will come back on its own each year!

If this blog post about how to grow calendula was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow and Use Calendula appeared first on Growing In The Garden.