In this post, I share some of my favorite perennial plants that thrive in the Sonoran Desert and are perfect for supporting pollinators. These long-lasting plants not only add beauty and texture to your garden, but they also play a vital role in creating a balanced and sustainable ecosystem. Whether you’re looking to add color, fragrance, or biodiversity, these perennials will help you build a thriving, pollinator-friendly space that will flourish year after year.

Using Perennials to Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for a Balanced Ecosystem

Perennials are an excellent way to create a sustainable, balanced ecosystem in your garden. They return year after year, providing consistent food and habitat for pollinators like bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. Unlike annual plants that need to be replanted every season, perennials save you time and effort as they establish themselves and continue to grow stronger over the years.

While perennials may have a higher initial cost compared to annuals, their long lifespan makes them a cost-effective option in the long run. These plants require less maintenance, as many are naturally adapted to local climates and soil conditions. Once established, they also need fewer resources like water and fertilizer, making them an eco-friendly choice for gardeners who want to minimize their environmental impact.

By selecting perennials that attract pollinators, you can create a garden that not only flourishes but also supports local wildlife. These plants provide essential nectar, pollen, and shelter, helping to pollinate your crops, control pests, and promote a healthier garden ecosystem overall. Whether you’re growing flowers, herbs, or shrubs, incorporating perennials into your garden is an excellent way to contribute to biodiversity while enjoying a low-maintenance, long-lasting landscape.

Supporting pollinators in the desert takes the right plants and placement. Find out what works in Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden.

Why plant native plants?

When selecting perennial plants for your garden, it’s often best to choose native species. Native plants are naturally adapted to your area’s climate, soil, and rainfall, meaning they thrive with less water, fewer chemicals, and minimal maintenance. These plants are also more resistant to local pests and diseases, making them easier to care for in the long run.

In addition to being resilient, native plants play a crucial role in supporting local wildlife, including pollinators like bees and butterflies, as well as birds and beneficial insects. By planting native species, you’re helping to protect and preserve your local ecosystem, while promoting biodiversity in your garden.

If you’re interested in learning more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide “Desert Gardening: How to Garden in a Hot, Dry Climate“ may be a helpful resource.

Perennial Plants That Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators in the Sonoran Desert

Here are a few of my favorite perennial plants that are well-suited for the Sonoran Desert and will help attract pollinators to your garden:

• Angelita Daisy
• Baja Fairyduster
• Blackfoot Daisy
• Blanketflower
• Chocolate Flower
• Coral Vine – Learn how to grow this drought-tolerant beauty in my Growing Guide for Coral VIne.
• Creosote
• Damianita Bush
• Desert Lavender
• Desert Marigold
• Desert Milkweed
• Fairy Duster
• Firecracker Penstemon
• Mt. Lemmon Marigold
• Globe Mallow
• Lantana
• Mealy Cup Sage
• Mexican Bush Sage
• Morning Glory
• Parry’s Penstemon
• Passion Vine
• Rock Penstemon
• Rock Verbena
• Rosemary – Get growing tips for this desert perennial in my Rosemary Growing Guide.
• Salvia
• Sandpaper Verbena
• Shrubby Germander
• Spanish Lavender – Get tips on growing this desert perennial in my Lavender Growing Guide.
• Skyflower
• Tangerine Crossvine
• Turpentine Bush
• Woolly Butterfly Bush
• Yellow Bells

These perennials are great choices for gardeners in the low desert of Arizona or other Sonoran desert areas. They provide year-round color and texture while supporting pollinators and enhancing your garden’s biodiversity.

Download printable “Sonoran Desert Perennials for Pollinators” at the top of the post.

Not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index covers everything from rosemary and lavender to ranunculus—organized A–Z for easy browsing. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

References and Further Reading

1. “Native Plants for Pollinators & Beneficial Insects: Southwest – Sonoran Desert“
2. Desert Museum Plant List
3. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

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10 Proven Tips for Growing Oregano

Quick‑Glance Facts

• USDA Zones: 5-10
• Grows best in full sun
• Soil pH: 6.0-8.0
• Hardy to 5 °F/–15 °C once established
• Blooms attract pollinators

1. Start With Strong Transplants —or Seeds

I prefer buying well-established transplants because they give me a head start, but if you want a special variety or prefer seed‑starting, oregano is happy to begin life indoors, too.

Transplants

• Choose well-established transplants with the strongest aroma—rub a leaf and sniff.
• Plant when soil temperatures stay above 70 °F / 21 °C.
• Set at original depth, spacing 12–18 in / 30–45 cm apart.

Seeds

• Sow indoors 8–10 weeks before your last frost.
• Transplant or direct‑seed ¼ in / 6 mm deep once the danger of frost passes.
• Thin seedlings to 18 in / 45 cm apart at 6 in / 15 cm tall.

2. Give It the Right Site

Well‑draining soil and plenty of sunshine make oregano happiest. In cooler or humid climates, space plants out so air and light can reach every stem. If you plant it in a raised bed, plan to divide it every year or two.

• Full sun is ideal, but in extreme desert heat, aim for afternoon shade.
• Well‑draining soil—sandy or rocky is fine.
• Water deeply when the top few inches of soil feels dry. In Arizona, that’s usually once a week in spring, twice a week in midsummer. Avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot.

Once or twice a year, oregano sends up nectar‑rich flowers that draw bees, butterflies, and hoverflies—another reason to tuck it near veggies.

3. Control Oregano’s Spread in Containers

My trusty whiskey barrel planter has hosted the same oregano plant since 2019. A quick haircut each spring and fall, plus a layer of compost, is all the maintenance it needs.

• Use a 12 in / 30 cm‑deep container with high‑quality potting mix—not garden soil.
• One plant per pot. It will quickly fill the container.
• Water when the top couple of inches are dry; pots dry faster than ground soil.
• Refresh with compost each spring and prune back by ⅓ for lush regrowth.

More container tips? See my full Container Gardening Guide.

4. Feed Lightly, Mulch Wisely

Oregano isn’t fussy—no extra fertilizer or thick mulch needed.

• Add 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm of compost each spring.
• Lightly mulch with shredded bark or straw to conserve moisture—but pull it back 2 in / 5 cm from stems to prevent rot.

5. Pair Oregano With Almost Any Vegetable

Add a pot or two of oregano around your garden to attract beneficial insects. Learn about more plants that attract beneficial insects in this guide.

• Tomatoes, broccoli, and cabbage especially benefit—oregano flowers attract hover flies that devour aphids.

6. Harvest Early and Often

Because oregano is perennial, I snip what I need all year. After a big spring or fall haircut, the surplus goes to my happy chickens. Learn about more of my favorite perennial herbs in this guide.

• Begin cutting when plants reach 6–8 in / 15–20 cm tall.
• The more you snip, the more it grows.
• Strip leaves by pinching the tip and sliding your fingers down the stem.

Prune flower spikes after bloom to keep leaves tender and encourage fresh growth.

7. Preserve Peak Flavor

When I have extra, often after those twice‑a‑year trims, freeze‑drying is my go‑to for the freshest flavor. Curious? Check out my Freeze‑Drying Herbs Guide.

• Air‑dry: Hang small bunches out of direct sun until crisp; store whole leaves in jars, then crumble when needed.
• Freeze: Seal sprigs in freezer bags or purée leaves with a splash of olive oil, pour into ice‑cube trays, and freeze.
• Freeze‑dry: My favorite—maintains color and aroma for up to a year.

8. How to Grow Oregano in Arizona

One of the easiest perennial herbs for hot climates—perfect for beginners. Grab even more desert‑herb tips in my Growing Herbs in Summer Heat Guide.

• Planting Windows: February–April and October–November.
• Provide afternoon shade from June through September.
• Divide overgrown clumps in February or March.
• After summer heat and again in early spring, prune back ⅓, top‑dress with compost, and water deeply for a quick rebound.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

9. Bring Oregano Indoors

Growing inside? You’ll need a decent grow light—bright kitchen windows rarely cut it, but oregano will thrive under LEDs.

• Light: South‑facing window or grow light (12 hrs / day) set 2–4 in / 5–10 cm above foliage.
• Temp: Keep above 80 °F / 27 °C for best growth; avoid drafts.
• Airflow: Thin plants to 6 in / 15 cm apart and rotate pots when watering.
• Harvest: Snip once stems exceed 6 in / 15 cm.

10. Watering & Troubleshooting at a Glance

Ready to Plant?

For a quick reference to spacing, timing, and care, see my Visual Guide to Growing Herbs—it’s packed with photos and information to get you started. Questions? Ask me below, or share your own oregano success stories.

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Why Grow Sage?

Sage is a popular Mediterranean herb known for its wooly, gray-green aromatic leaves. It’s hardy to USDA zones 4-8 and is particularly well-suited to desert areas, thanks to its tolerance for hot weather, poor soil, and minimal water. In addition to its culinary uses, sage produces spikes of purple flowers that attract pollinators and beneficial insects, adding beauty and biodiversity to your garden. Sage made the list of the top plants to attract beneficial insects to your garden.

Getting Started: Planting Sage

Starting Sage Seeds Indoors

Growing sage from seed can be challenging, but if growing sage from seed, here’s how to do it:

1. Start seeds indoors about 2 months before the last frost.
2. Sow 2-3 seeds 1/4″ (.6 cm) deep in individual containers.
3. Once germination occurs, thin to one plant per container.
4. Pot up into three-inch pots when plants are 2-3 inches (5-7 inches) tall and have 2 sets of leaves.
5. After the last frost, transplant the seedlings outside, spacing them 12 inches (30cm) apart.

One benefit of growing sage indoors is you can select the timing and variety. Learn more about how to start seeds indoors in this blog post.

Using Transplants

For those who prefer a quicker start, transplants are a fantastic option:

1. Look for healthy, sturdy plants with green leaves and multiple stems in three inch (7 cm) or larger pots. Avoid leggy or root-bound plants.
2. Transplant these into your garden after all danger of frost has passed in early spring.

Soil and Location

1. Sunlight: Choose a location that gets plenty of sun. Although sage is drought tolerant, afternoon shade can be beneficial in hot summer climates.
2. Soil: Sage tolerates various soils but thrives in well-draining soil. Sage tolerates dry conditions and poor soil but will die in soggy and not well-drained soil. 
3. Spacing: Plants should be spaced about 12 inches (30 cm) apart in the garden. Sage will grow to about 2 feet (60 cm) wide if allowed.

Try Different Varieties of Sage

Experiment with different varieties of sage to add variety to your garden and kitchen. Some popular types of sage include:

Purple Sage

Recognized by its distinctive purple-hued leaves, Purple Sage provides both color and flavor. It has a similar taste to Common Sage, though slightly milder, making it a beautiful and functional addition to herb gardens and ornamental beds.

Dwarf Sage

Dwarf Sage grows more compactly, making it ideal for smaller gardens or container planting. Its leaves and flavor profile are similar to Common Sage, but its petite size allows for easier harvesting and better use of limited garden space.

Common Sage

Common Sage is the go-to variety for culinary sage use. It has the classic, earthy, and slightly peppery flavor most cooks know and love. Its gray-green leaves can be harvested throughout the season, and it’s a resilient choice for beginner gardeners.

Tri-Color Sage

Known for its eye-catching blend of green, white, and pinkish-purple leaves, Tri-Color Sage is primarily grown as an ornamental variety. It’s also edible, though many gardeners prefer to use it sparingly or alongside more robust-tasting sage types for a visual pop in the kitchen.

Gold-Variegated Sage

Gold-variegated sage has green leaves with golden or cream-colored edges, adding a bright accent to the herb bed. Its taste is similar to Common Sage, but its main appeal is the striking leaf coloration, which can liven up both your garden and your dishes.

How to Grow Sage in Containers

If you’re limited on garden bed space or prefer the flexibility of container gardening, sage also does well in pots. Learn how to grow sage in containers with these tips:

1. Choose the Right Pot: Select a pot at least 12 inches (30cm) tall. I like terra cotta pots, as their porous nature allows sage roots to breathe.
2. Ensure Proper Drainage: Make sure your container has drainage holes to prevent soggy roots.
3. Watering: Water deeply but infrequently, especially during the hottest months. Sage can rot in overly wet soil.
4. Location: Place the container in a sunny spot, preferably with afternoon shade in hot climates.

Learn more about how to garden in containers in this blog post.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

Care & Maintenance

Watering: Although sage is drought-tolerant, it benefits from regular watering, especially in the first year. Once established, allowing the soil to dry out between watering is important to prevent root rot.

Fertilizing: Add compost occasionally to improve nutrient levels. Learn how to make compost in this blogpost.

Spring and Fall Pruning: At the end of winter or summer, prune sage back when you see new growth at the base. Prune to remove dead wood and for shape. This rejuvenates the plant and encourages fresh growth. This is a good time to top with compost.

Longevity: Sage plants become woody after about 5 years and may need to be replaced. In very cold areas, mulch sage in winter to protect it from extreme temperatures.

Pest Management

Sage is susceptible to various pests, including slugs, spider mites, spittlebugs, aphids, and whiteflies. Often, damage is minor and best left untreated. For organic and minimally invasive treatments, consider the following options:

1. Handpicking: Handpicking can be an effective method for larger pests like slugs.
   
2. Natural Predators: Encourage beneficial insects and animals, such as ladybugs, lacewings, spiders, and birds, which are natural predators of many pests.
   
3. Organic Insecticidal Soaps: These are usually safe for the plant but deadly for small pests like mites and aphids. They work by covering the pests and dehydrating them. Unfortunately, they can also kill beneficial insects. Use sparingly and only if the plant’s life is threatened.

Harvesting sage

• First-Year Harvest: Individual leaves can be harvested once the plant is established.
• Subsequent Years: Cut stems to within 6 inches of the base just as flowers start to open.

Harvest sage leaves as needed year-round. When harvesting, take a few leaves from each stem. This will help the plants continue to grow and produce more sage for you to use. Always use clean scissors or pruners when harvesting. Enjoy adding fresh leaves to your favorite dishes.

Many varieties of sage bear edible flowers. Harvest flower spikes to encourage a second flush of blooms. Unlike other herbs, sage leaves are still delicious after the plant flowers. 

Storage and Usage

Dry sage to enjoy later. Dry sage leaves on a screen in a well-ventilated area. I like these herb-drying screens from Amazon. You can also tie several branches together and hang them upside down. Allowing leaves to dry slowly prevents them from becoming moldy. Once leaves are completely dry, store them in airtight jars for the best flavor. 

Freeze drying is an excellent way to preserve sage. This preservation method is ideal for longer-term storage, allowing you to enjoy the fresh flavor of sage long after it has been harvested. Learn more about how to freeze dry herbs in this blog post.

For a convenient, shelf-stable way to preserve your produce, be sure to read our guide on how to freeze dry.

Tips for How to Grow Sage in Arizona

Sage is one of the easiest herbs to grow year-round in the low desert of Arizona. Learn about more of my favorite perennial herbs for hot climates in this blog post. Here are a few tips for how to grow sage in Arizona.

• Plant sage in October or November or from February to April.
• Choose an area with excellent drainage. I like to plant sage in the corners of raised beds, allowing the plants to spill over the sides.
• During the hottest months, water sage deeply but infrequently. Sage rots easily in hot, wet soil. 
• I usually cut back my sage once or twice during the year. This is also a good time to trim any dead or diseased stems. Either in the spring, after the danger of frost has passed, or in the fall, after summer’s hottest temperatures are over and nighttime temperatures are beginning to fall.
• After pruning, I top the sage with some fresh compost. The sage recovers quickly and puts on a flush of new growth.

Learn more about how to grow herbs in hot summer climates in this blog post.

Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona, and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

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If you live in a desert region like Arizona, you’ll need a heat-tolerant lavender that can handle blazing sun. If your climate is more temperate, you’ll have a wider range of options. Either way, success starts with picking the right variety. Yes, you can grow lavender in a place as hot as Arizona—you just have to choose wisely. Let’s get to it!

Article Index:

• Lavender 101: The Main Types
• Matching Lavender to Your Zone
• Best Lavenders for Hot Climates
• What to Expect When Growing Lavender in Hot Climates
• Final Tips for Choosing Lavender

Lavender 101: The Main Types

English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

• Best for: Cooler climates, USDA zones 5–8 (some varieties hardy to zone 4).
• Key Traits: Classic “true” lavender aroma, typically used in perfumes and culinary recipes. English lavender cultivars like ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’ are known for their deep purple flowers and strong fragrance.
• Climate Tips: Prefers moderate summers and tolerates chilly winters. In hot areas, it may need afternoon shade to avoid heat stress.

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

• Best for: Warm, dry climates (zones 7–9).
• Key Traits: Distinctive “rabbit ear” bracts atop the flower heads; blooms heavily in spring.
• Climate Tips: Thrives in Mediterranean-like conditions—mild winters, hot/dry summers. Generally less cold-hardy than English types.

French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)

• Best for: Mild winter regions (zones 8–9), including low desert areas if given some summer shade.
• Key Traits: Serrated (“toothed”) leaves, subtle but pleasant fragrance. Often blooms nearly year-round in frost-free regions.
• Climate Tips: Frost-sensitive below ~15 °F; does well with well-drained soil and moderate watering.

Lavandin Hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia)

• Best for: A wide range of zones (roughly 5–9).
• Key Traits: Hybrids of English and spike lavender; typically larger plants, very fragrant. Common examples include ‘Provence,’ ‘Grosso,’ and ‘Phenomenal.’
• Climate Tips: More heat-tolerant than pure English lavender and moderately cold-hardy. Ideal for regions with hot summers and moderate winters.

Matching Lavender to Your Zone

• Cool Climates (Zones 3–5)
  Look for extra-hardy L. angustifolia varieties (e.g., ‘Munstead’ or ‘SuperBlue’). Provide winter mulch and ensure excellent drainage to prevent root rot in snow and freezing temps.
  
• Moderate Climates (Zones 6–8)
  You have the greatest choice—English, French, Spanish, and Lavandin all can thrive. Focus on your personal preference for flower style (e.g., “bunny ears” on Spanish) and scent (English tends to be sweet, and Lavandin often has a sharper fragrance).
  
• Hot, Dry Climates (Zones 9–10)
  Spanish lavender, French lavender, and Lavandin hybrids are your best bet—particularly if you have mild winters. These types tolerate intense sun, alkaline soils, and lower water conditions well. Provide afternoon shade if summer temps soar above 100 °F.

Best Lavenders for Hot Climates

Here are some of the best lavender varieties for hot climates, including desert regions like Arizona. These varieties can handle intense sun, high temperatures, and dry conditions while still producing beautiful, fragrant blooms.

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

• Why it thrives in heat: Native to the Mediterranean, this variety loves warm, dry conditions.
• What makes it unique: Recognizable by its “rabbit ear” bracts on top of deep purple flowers.
• Best for: Hot, arid regions with mild winters (Zones 7–9).
• Care tip: Tolerates full sun but benefits from occasional deadheading to extend blooming.

French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)

• Why it thrives in heat: Handles long, hot summers and mild winters better than English lavender.
• What makes it unique: Soft, gray-green leaves with a serrated edge and a slightly different scent.
• Best for: Zones 8–9, especially areas with alkaline soil and minimal frost. Excellent landscape plant. My top choice for lavender here in the low desert.
• Care tip: Blooms for extended periods in warm climates; prune lightly to maintain shape.

Lavandin ‘Provence’ (Lavandula x intermedia ‘Provence’)

• Why it thrives in heat: A hybrid of English and spike lavender, making it more tolerant of both heat and humidity.
• What makes it unique: Known for its tall flower spikes and strong, sweet fragrance.
• Best for: Zones 6–9; widely grown in commercial lavender farms.
• Care tip: Requires excellent drainage to prevent root rot in hot weather.

‘Goodwin Creek Gray’ (Lavandula x ginginsii)

• Why it thrives in heat: One of the most heat- and drought-tolerant lavenders.
• What makes it unique: Silvery-gray foliage with deep purple flower spikes.
• Best for: Hot climates, including desert areas, as long as the soil drains well.
• Care tip: Does well in containers but must have fast-draining soil.

Fern Leaf Lavender (Lavandula multifida)

• Why it thrives in heat: Tolerates dry conditions and blooms almost year-round in warm regions.
• What makes it unique: Feathery, fern-like foliage with a milder lavender scent.
• Best for: Hot, dry climates where traditional lavender struggles. Grows well in containers.
• Care tip: Blooms continuously with light trimming; a great choice for attracting pollinators and hummingbirds.

What to Expect When Growing Lavender in Hot Climates

Even heat-tolerant lavender varieties may struggle during peak summer temperatures. It’s normal for plants to look a little stressed, with some leaf curling or minor browning. However, once temperatures cool slightly, they will bounce back and continue blooming. Providing well-draining soil, occasional deep watering, and light afternoon shade in extreme heat can help keep your plants healthy.

Don’t forget to use the blooms! Learn more about edible flowers in this guide.

By choosing the right lavender variety for your hot climate, you’ll enjoy beautiful, fragrant blooms even in tough growing conditions. Lavender makes an excellent companion plant for your garden, learn more in this guide.

Final Tips for Choosing Lavender

• Check Local Nurseries – They often stock varieties proven to thrive in your area.
• Know Your Soil – Lavender needs excellent drainage, so be prepared to amend heavy or clay soils.
• Start Small – Grow a few different varieties to see which performs best before planting en masse.
• Experiment – Different areas of your yard may be better suited to growing lavender.

Don’t give up! The beautiful lavender blooms and the pollinators they attract year after year are worth the effort to find the right plant for the right spot in your yard.

Next step? Learn how to grow and care for lavender in desert conditions—read this article to learn how. Want to make the most of your lavender? Check out my full guide on harvesting, drying, and using lavender for all the details

Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like

Lavender thrives alongside other sun-loving, low-water plants. Check out our grow guides for:

• Texas Mountain Laurel
• Rosemary

Both share similar watering and soil conditions, so they’re great companions. You can also explore our guide to hot-climate perennial herbs.

Source: Mielke, Judy. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. University of Texas Press, Austin, 1993.

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Article Outline:

• Why Lavender Thrives in Hot Climates
• Best Lavender Varieties for Hot Climates
• Best Planting Times: Fall or Spring
• Care Tips for Growing Lavender in Hot Climates
• Harvesting Your Lavender
• Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
• Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like
• Final Thoughts

Why Lavender Thrives in Hot Climates

Many lavender species originated in Mediterranean regions with rocky soils, strong sun, and minimal rainfall—conditions similar to what many “hot climate” gardeners experience. While some lavender varieties handle cold better, others are especially suited to heat. If you pick the right type and respect its water and drainage needs, lavender can flourish even in tough, scorching conditions.

Best Lavender Varieties for Hot Climates

• Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)
• French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)
• Fern-Leaf Lavender (Lavandula multifida)

Check out my detailed post on the best lavender varieties for hot climates for full descriptions and tips on each type.

Lavender makes an excellent warm-season companion plant for your garden, learn more in this guide.

Lavender is also a great choice for attracting beneficial pollinators, especially bees and butterflies. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Best Planting Times: Fall or Spring

If you live in a hot climate, fall or early spring are the best times to plant lavender. Here’s why:

• Fall: Planting in the fall gives lavender time to establish roots before the stress of extreme summer heat or cold snaps. The cooler nights also reduce evaporation and stress on new transplants.
• Early Spring: Spring is another good option if fall gets too cold in your area. Planting in the spring allows the lavender to settle in during milder conditions, gearing up for strong growth before summer temperatures soar.

Both seasons offer moderate temperatures that help lavender develop a robust root system.

Care Tips for Growing Lavender in Hot Climates

1. Choose a Sunny Spot

Lavender needs full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours a day. Aim for plenty of morning sun and a bit of afternoon shade in very hot areas if possible.

2. Provide Excellent Drainage

Soil drainage is often the deciding factor in whether lavender thrives or struggles. If you have clay or poorly draining soil, amend your soil with sand, gravel, or a cactus mix to promote drainage. Lavender is prone to root rot in heavy, wet soils.

Tip: Dig the planting hole and fill it with water; it should drain within an hour or two. If the water remains longer, improve the drainage or pick another spot.

3. Irrigation Strategy

• Cool Season (fall/winter/spring): Provide moderate, regular water while your lavender is actively growing or blooming.
• Hot Summer: Reduce watering drastically. Deep soaks once or twice a month are enough for established plants. Overwatering can harm lavender, especially in high heat.

4. Light Mulching

Lavender doesn’t need (or want) thick mulch that retains excess moisture. A thin layer of non-organic mulch (gravel or rocks) helps control weeds and moderate soil temperature. Keep it away from the stems—piling mulch around the base can create moisture problems. A light top-dressing of compost each fall is usually all the fertilization lavender needs.

5. Gentle Pruning

• When to Prune: In the fall as new growth emerges or right after the main bloom flush.
• How Much to Remove: Only trim back the top few inches of green growth. Avoid cutting into the older woody stems—lavender often struggles to regrow from heavy cuts.

6. Expect Summer Dormancy

As temperatures climb in the summer, lavender will go somewhat dormant. The plant will not look its best. Don’t prune, fertilize, or over water. As temperatures moderate in the fall you will see new growth and signs of life. Get more tips for growing perennial herbs in hot summer climates in this guide.

Harvesting Your Lavender

• Harvest just as the flower buds begin to open. Early morning is best, when the essential oils are at their peak.
• Use sharp shears to snip stems a few inches above the foliage. Gather the stems into small bundles to hang and dry.
• Don’t forget to use the blooms! Learn more about edible flowers in this guide. Dried lavender makes aromatic sachets, bouquets, and wreaths or can even be added to certain culinary dishes (e.g., herbes de Provence).

Want to make the most of your lavender? Check out my full guide on harvesting, drying, and using lavender for all the details

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Why is my lavender dying or not growing well?

• Overwatering: Lavender roots hate constant moisture. A soggy bed or daily watering often leads to wilt and root rot.
• Too Much Mulch: Thick, damp mulch traps moisture at the base, inviting fungal issues. Use organic mulch sparingly and keep it off the stems.
• Wrong Variety: Some lavenders just aren’t suited for high heat. See our guide to the best lavender varieties for hot climates to choose one adapted to your region.

When should I prune lavender?

• It’s best to prune lightly in the fall. Avoid heavy pruning in spring or summer when plants are actively flowering or enduring stress from heat.

How often should I water lavender in a hot, dry climate?

• After being established, a deep soak once or twice a month in summer is enough. Younger plants may need more frequent watering while roots are established.

My lavender looks haggard—can I cut it back hard?

• Lavender doesn’t regenerate easily from older woody stems. Stick to light trimming of green growth rather than cutting back severely into wood.

Does lavender need fertilizer?

• Generally, no. A small amount of compost in early fall is sufficient. Overfertilizing can cause rapid growth that’s prone to disease and rot.

Can I prune lavender all the way back to the woody stems?

• This is usually discouraged. Severe pruning into old wood may stunt the plant’s ability to recover, especially during the hot, dormant season.

What about pests or diseases?

• Lavender is fairly pest-resistant. Root rot or fungal diseases usually come from too much water and poor drainage, so keep the soil well-drained and don’t overwater.

Other Drought-Tolerant Plants You Might Like

Lavender thrives alongside other sun-loving, low-water plants. Check out our grow guides for:

• Texas Mountain Laurel
• Rosemary
• Hyssop

Both share similar watering and soil conditions, so they’re great companions. You can also explore our guide to other perennial herbs if you want to fill your garden with more Mediterranean favorites that thrive in hot, dry climates.

Final Thoughts

Hot climates don’t have to be a barrier to growing lavender. By choosing a variety suited for heat, planting at the right time, and giving your plants the right balance of water and drainage, you’ll enjoy stunning blooms and calming fragrances for many seasons to come.

Source: Mielke, Judy. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. University of Texas Press, Austin, 1993.

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The blooms are beautiful, and bees love them. Plant your Texas Mountain Laurel somewhere you can see and enjoy it. It grows slowly, requires minimal care, and naturally forms multiple trunks, making it a smart addition to your garden.

How to Grow Texas Mountain Laurel

Choosing the Right Spot: Find a sunny area. It tolerates full sun, and more sun = more blooms. Texas Mountain Laurel does best in alkaline, rocky, or limestone-rich soil with good drainage. 

Spacing: Allow about 10 feet between plants. However, you can space more closely if you want to form a hedge with these tough plants. 

When to Plant: The best time to plant is in the fall. Fall planting gives the tree time to establish roots before the summer. Spring planting also works, but be prepared to water a bit more frequently as temperatures rise.

Planting Tips: Dig a hole slightly larger than the container. Carefully remove the plant, taking care not to overly disturb its roots, and position it so the soil level matches that of the original container. Fill in with native soil, gently pressing to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the roots.

Consider planting perennial herbs like rosemary or lavender nearby. They share similar growing requirements — plenty of sun, well-draining soil, and minimal watering once established.

Be sure to check out my growing guides for rosemary, lavender, and perennial herbs in hot climates, as well as a guide to another slow-growing tree: bay laurel. These companion plants help highlight the natural beauty of Texas Mountain Laurel.

Caring for Your Texas Mountain Laurel

Watering: Water more frequently during the first year or two. After that, it requires only occasional watering during extended dry periods. I have mine on my shrub drips, and they get water about once a month in the winter and as often as once a week in the summer. If you want the tree to grow more quickly, give it more water. 

Pruning: This slow-growing plant eventually reaches about 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide, often forming multiple trunks naturally. Prune lower branches if you prefer a more traditional tree form, but overall, pruning needs are minimal beyond basic shaping and removing damaged branches.

Managing Pests (the Organic Way)

Genista Broom Moth larvae show up like clockwork every spring on Texas Mountain Laurel. These caterpillars feed on leaves, twigs, and seed pods and can look pretty shocking! On larger, established trees, they typically come and go without causing much harm but check young trees frequently.

Remove the caterpillars by hand or blast them off with a hose. If an infestation becomes severe, treat with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), an organic solution that specifically targets caterpillars and doesn’t harm beneficial insects.

A Quick Safety Note

The tree produces seed pods with toxic orange seeds. The pods are hard and difficult to open but to be safe, remove and discard them if you have young children or pets. 

Landscape Beauty and Versatility

Texas Mountain Laurel works perfectly as a focal point, informal hedge, or privacy screen, thanks to its dense evergreen foliage and stunning springtime blooms. It’s the type of plant you’ll love having around — low-maintenance, visually striking, and attractive to pollinators. Once you’ve learned how to grow Texas Mountain Laurel in your yard, you’ll see why it’s become a go-to choice for many gardeners. Enjoy its fragrant purple blooms and the low-maintenance beauty it brings.

Source: Mielke, Judy. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. University of Texas Press, Austin, 1993.

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I’ve grown Kurapia in my yard and can attest to how quickly and vigorously it grows. Even during the hottest parts of the summer, Kurapia doesn’t seem to mind the intense Arizona heat, making it a reliable choice for desert gardeners.

What is Kurapia?

Kurapia (Lippia nodiflora), a creeping, low-water-use groundcover, has gained popularity as an effective alternative to traditional lawns in Arizona’s hot desert climate. Native to the southern United States and related to plants like lantana, it thrives in heat, requires minimal water, and is non-toxic.

Benefits of Choosing Kurapia

• Low Water Use: Kurapia needs significantly less water than Bermuda grass, making it a sustainable choice for conserving resources.
• Heat Tolerance: Well-adapted to the high temperatures of regions like Phoenix and Tucson, Kurapia can handle intense Arizona summers.
• Minimal Maintenance: Growing just about 3 inches tall, it doesn’t require regular mowing. Occasional mowing is optional if you prefer a manicured look or to minimize flowering.

Read this guide for more reasons to replace grass with water-saving groundcovers.

Kurapia vs. Bermuda Grass

While Bermuda grass is tough and drought-tolerant, Kurapia offers unique advantages:

• Water Efficiency: Kurapia generally uses less water than Bermuda grass and is especially beneficial during prolonged drought.
• Winter Appearance: Bermuda grass goes dormant and turns brown in winter unless overseeded with rye grass, while Kurapia maintains a green appearance year-round in Arizona climates.
• Shade Tolerance: Kurapia tolerates shade better than Bermuda grass, making it suitable for areas that receive less direct sun.

However, it is less tolerant of heavy foot traffic, so it’s not suitable for sports fields or highly trafficked paths. For more ideas for lawn alternatives, read this guide.

How to Switch from Bermuda Grass to Kurapia

Switching to Kurapia requires removing existing grass completely:

1. Remove Bermuda grass: Use solarization to eliminate Bermuda grass. Solarization involves covering the grass with clear plastic to kill it through heat, but it can damage nearby trees or shrubs, so use caution. Learn more about how to remove Bermuda grass in this guide.
2. Prepare the Ground: After removing the grass, ensure the area is bare and free of weeds.
3. Plant Kurapia Plugs: Plant plugs spaced approximately 18 inches apart. Full coverage typically occurs within 3 months.

Varieties of Kurapia

Kurapia is sterile, propagated only from cuttings, and several cultivated varieties are available:

• Pink Kurapia® (‘Ecolopia2’) – distinguished by pink flowers
• ‘New White’
• ‘Campagna Verde’

Each type varies slightly, primarily in flower appearance and growth characteristics. Look for transplants at local nurseries. I purchased my Kurapia starts at Arizona Worm Farm in Phoenix.

Maintenance and Watering Tips

• Minimal Maintenance: It doesn’t require regular mowing. Occasional mowing is optional if you prefer a manicured look or to minimize flowering.
• Watering: During warmer months (above 90°F), water it twice weekly for about 20 minutes per session if using overhead sprinklers. Adjust based on soil type and conditions. I have mine on a drip irrigation, and that works well.
• Cold Sensitivity: Kurapia performs best in Arizona regions with mild winters. It’s hardy down to approximately 13°F but may not survive colder areas like Flagstaff or Payson.

Is Kurapia Right for You?

Kurapia is an excellent option if:

• You’re seeking a visually appealing, low-maintenance, drought-tolerant groundcover.
• You have areas of partial shade unsuitable for Bermuda grass.
• Your lawn does not experience significant foot traffic.

Traditional turfgrass might still be your best choice if an immaculate, flower-free lawn or heavy activity area is important.

See Kurapia in Action

Curious about what it looks like in person? Visit:

• The Japanese Friendship Garden in Phoenix
• Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office

These locations showcase the practical uses and visual appeal in real desert settings.

Reference:
Chamberland, Michael. Kurapia – A Low-Water Use Groundcover and Turfgrass Alternative. College of Agriculture, Life & Environmental Sciences, University of Arizona, December 2024. Link, licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.

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Although rosemary is easy to grow, it’s also easy to kill. Learn what to do (and what not to do) when growing rosemary with the tips in this article. Here are five tips to help beginner and experienced gardeners get started growing rosemary.

5 Tips for How to Grow Rosemary

1. Don’t plant it in your garden beds full of rich soil

Rosemary struggles when grown in rich soil. Instead, plant it on the outskirts of your garden in native, slightly alkaline soil with a pH level of around 7. The beautiful purple flowers will attract bees and wildlife to your garden. 

Well-draining soil is essential for rosemary. This means the soil should be able to drain water quickly, preventing the roots from sitting in water for too long. This plant is susceptible to root rot and other moisture-related conditions, which can turn it yellow, wilt, and eventually lead to its demise. Understanding and providing the right soil conditions is key to maintaining a healthy rosemary plant. 

Rosemary thrives in full sun and prefers temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C). It tolerates full sun even in Arizona’s low desert. 

If you’re looking to diversify your herb garden, be sure to check out my comprehensive guide on how to grow sage.

2. Plant from transplant; rosemary is not easily grown from seeds

Growing rosemary from seeds is notoriously tricky. It’s best to plant transplants. When choosing transplants, choose vigorous plants with healthy leaves. Before purchasing, remove the transplant from the container to ensure it is not overgrown or rootbound. 

The best time to plant rosemary will vary depending on your location. It is generally recommended to wait until the last frost has passed before planting. Older plants tolerate frost, but young plants like warm soil to help them get established. 

Plant rosemary from fall to early spring if you live in a mild winter climate. In the low desert of Arizona, plant rosemary from October to November and from February through April for the best results. Give plants ample time to establish their roots before the summer heat sets in. This low desert planting guide is available in my shop.

In zones 8 and higher, rosemary is grown as a perennial and can grow large (several feet (1 m) wide and tall ). Give rosemary room to grow. 

Live in a humid area? Provide plenty of airflow; don’t crowd (allow 2-4 feet (.6-1.2 m) in every direction), and ensure it has good drainage. In zones 7 and lower, grow in a container and bring it indoors during the winter.

Terra cotta pots are a good choice for growing rosemary in containers. The porous nature of terra cotta allows the plant to dry out between waterings, which helps prevent root rot.  Use a cactus or succulent soil mix when growing rosemary in containers.

3. Don’t stress over caring for rosemary

Rosemary thrives on neglect, making it a low-maintenance addition to your garden. Water it often until it establishes, then let it do its thing. Just remember to let the soil dry out between waterings and avoid over-soaking. It’s as simple as that! Read this post, “How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates,” for more tips about caring for herbs.

An annual light top dressing of compost or mulch in early spring nourishes the microbial life in the soil. Additional fertilizer is not recommended.

Rosemary is a good companion to Texas Mountain Laurel in the landscape. They both benefit from similar growing conditions. Learn how to grow Texas Mountain Laurel in this guide. For more companion plants for warm-season gardens read this guide.

Rosemary also attracts beneficial pollinators—especially bees and butterflies. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

4. Harvest rosemary – but not too much!

It’s best not to prune more than ⅓ of the plant at one time. If desired, prune lightly each spring or fall for shape. This means removing the top few inches of the plant to encourage bushier growth. Cutting back more than that or extensive pruning during the year’s hottest months will stress the plant. 

Harvest individual sprigs as needed. Young stems have the freshest flavor. Rosemary flowers have a more subtle flavor than the leaves but are edible and make a beautiful garnish.

If you can grow rosemary year-round, use it fresh; there is no need to preserve it. Young stems have the most flavor. I rarely preserve it. However, you can preserve it by drying, freeze-drying, or freezing.

Strip rosemary leaves before drying and storing. To strip leaves from the stem, hold the tip and pull it upward through pinched fingers or a grater.

5. Propagate unlimited rosemary from cuttings

Unlock the potential of unlimited rosemary with propagation. It’s a breeze to propagate in late winter or early spring.

Choose young shoots that aren’t flowering and are 6-8 inches long. Remove the bottom half of the leaves and root in water. Change the water every few days to keep the environment oxygenated and prevent rotting.

After a few weeks, you should notice root hairs forming in the water. Pot up the rooted cuttings when several roots are an inch or more long. It’s an exciting process and fun to grow new plants.

To learn about other herbs that thrive in hot climates, read this post, “10 Perennial Herbs for Hot Summer Climates“.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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If you’re curious about how to create a permaculture food forest, you’ve come to the right place.

What is it? In simple terms, a permaculture food forest is a garden that imitates the structure and function of a natural forest. It contains various plants, including fruits, nuts, herbs, and vegetables. The garden is arranged in layers (like a natural forest), with trees, shrubs, ground cover plants, and vines. These plants coexist, support each other’s growth, and establish a harmonious ecosystem.

A food forest yields a rich variety of food and resources for you and creates a beneficial environment for local wildlife.

10 Practical Tips for Creating a Permaculture Food Forest

1. Gather information about your property

Before you start planting, get to know your property. Observe your surroundings. Notice the natural paths of water, wind, and sunlight throughout the year and their effect on your property. Take notes and try to discover the patterns. Research and try to discover the implications of your observations.

• What are the measurements of the property?
• What are the microclimates?
• Where are the utilities located?
• Which hardscaping elements will stay or be changed?
• What are the known challenges?
• What structures are on the property?
• Where would any planned structures need to be located?
• What is the condition of the soil? Test the soil so that you understand any underlying issues.

Large or complicated properties can be challenging to navigate. Consider hiring an expert. A trained professional may help you avoid costly mistakes. They can evaluate space limitations, drainage, sun exposure, and other factors to ensure your food forest will thrive.

If you do this step on your own, spend time reading permaculture books to familiarize yourself with the key principles. Some of my favorite permaculture books include:

• Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture – Toby Hemenway
• Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein

Permaculture principles applied to small spaces and containers:

• Container Gardening—The Permaculture Way: Sustainably Grow Vegetables and More in Your Small Space – Valéry Tsimba

2. Understand the vision for the property and implement goals to make it happen

Now that you are beginning to understand your property, it’s time to decide what you want to achieve with your food forest. Create a vision statement of what you would like the property to become. This is also a good time to consider the time and resources you wish to devote to the project and ongoing maintenance.

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

• Do you want a wide variety of fruit to eat every day of the year?
• How much of your food would you like to grow?
• Would you like to grow rare or unusual fruit?
• Are animals or other livestock included in your vision?
• What plans for water or energy conservation do you have?

Now, set goals to implement that vision. Consider how to meet the needs of everyone who lives on your property. Include as much detail as possible in your plans. Your goals will determine what, where, and how much you plant.

Write your vision and goals down and keep them in mind as you build your food forest.

3. Evaluate and improve the soil 

You may not be able to implement all the goals and food forest plans at once but begin by improving the soil.

No matter what or when you plant, it needs good soil to grow well. Adding a thick layer of compost and wood chips is a simple way to improve your soil. If you live in a dry climate, begin watering. Adding compost, wood chips, and water makes your soil come alive in preparation for planting.

4. Learn which plants grow best in your climate for each permaculture layer

In a food forest, you’ll have different layers: canopy, low tree level, shrub level, and herbaceous level. Each layer supports various types of plants. Take the time to learn which plants grow best in your climate for each layer and plan your food forest accordingly.

If you live in a mild winter climate, these posts about perennial herbs and other perennial crops may help. For other climates, find local growers or check with your extension office for planting resources.

5. Plan fruit tree guilds in your food forest

Fruit tree guilds are groups of plants that work together to support the fruit tree. Look to existing local plant groupings for guidelines of what is already working well in your climate. Choose resilient plants that offer different benefits to one another.

For example, planting nitrogen-fixing plants can help fertilize the soil and benefit the fruit tree. Other plants may help keep pests away and provide nutrients to the soil or provide leaf litter for mulch.

10 Practical Tips for Creating a Permaculture Food Forest (cont.)

6. Plant suitable varieties for your climate

It is essential to understand chill hours, climate zones, and their impact on what you can grow. If you live in an area with low chill hours, you’ll need to choose trees that don’t require a lot of chill hours. Research the varieties that will do well in your particular climate before planting. If you don’t have enough chill hours for a particular fruit, the tree may grow, but it will not produce fruit.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

7. Start with trees that are easy to grow

When creating a food forest, knowing which trees will do well with minimal effort in your area is essential. For example, citrus, mulberry, fig, and pomegranate are good choices for beginners if you live in the low desert of Arizona. These trees are easy to grow, hardy, and provide abundant fruit. Growing easy-to-grow trees is a good preparation before tackling tough or finicky plants that are more difficult to grow well. Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.

Need help selecting what to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

8. Purchase small trees for planting

While larger trees may seem appealing, smaller trees (1-gallon or 5-gallon) are less expensive, easier to transport and plant, and establish roots quickly. They’re often healthier and will catch up to larger, more costly trees in just a few years. Learn more about how to plant bare-root and container fruit trees in this blog post.

9. Plant canopy trees first in your food forest

The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, and the next best time is today. Canopy trees are the largest in your food forest and form the top layer. They provide shade, shelter, and a habitat for wildlife. Planting canopy trees first helps create the microclimate that allows other plants to survive and thrive. The size of a canopy tree will vary depending on the size of your property.

10. Take pictures and videos of the process

I’ve never regretted taking ‘before’ pictures. I usually regret not taking enough and not taking video footage as well! Documenting the process of creating your food forest will allow you to see how far you’ve come.

Recording the process is also an excellent way to look back and learn from successes and mistakes. As an added bonus, before and after pictures and videos can inspire others when you share your journey.

By following these practical tips, you’ll be on your way to building a thriving permaculture food forest. With a bit of patience and hard work, you’ll enjoy a bountiful harvest. Good luck!

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As we increasingly feel the impact of a warming climate, the need for sustainable landscaping practices becomes more critical. There may be times and areas where grass is a good option for a landscape. However, if the grass is not being utilized, it might be time to consider replacing unused grass lawns with low-water-use groundcovers.

Defining Low-Water-Use Groundcovers

Low-water-use groundcovers are plants that require minimal irrigation once established. These could include a variety of species, such as clover, succulents, creeping thyme, wildflowers, native perennials, or drought-resistant shrubs. They are especially beneficial in regions such as the desert southwest, where water is scarce or where conservation is a priority. The type of groundcovers to plant will vary, depending on your region.

Now, let’s delve into a few reasons why low-water-use groundcovers make an excellent alternative to traditional grass lawns.

Why Choose Low-Water-Use Groundcovers? The Advantages of Low-Water-Use Groundcovers Over Traditional Grass

1. Water Conservation

Traditional lawns require substantial amounts of water to maintain, especially during the summer in hot climate areas. In contrast, low-water-use groundcovers need less water. By choosing these plants, you can reduce outdoor water use, contributing to overall water conservation efforts.

According to the Arizona Department of Water Resources, “The largest use of potable water in Arizona is for landscaping, and as much as 70 percent of residential water use is outdoors.” Reducing our outdoor water use is a crucial goal to work towards.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

2. Reduced Maintenance

Unlike traditional lawns that require regular mowing, fertilizing, and pest control, groundcovers are generally low-maintenance. If you put the right plant in the right location (sunlight exposure, size, soil type), it will require little maintenance or trimming.

3. Beauty and Enhanced Biodiversity

Groundcovers offer a wide range of textures, colors, and flowering times, providing visual interest throughout the year. Unlike grass, which tends to have a uniform appearance, groundcovers can be selected for their contrasting foliage, vibrant flowers, and unique growth habits.

Groundcovers provide shelter, food, and nesting sites for various wildlife, including birds, butterflies, beneficial insects, and pollinators. By creating a habitat for these creatures, groundcovers contribute to a healthier ecosystem.

4. Stronger and Healthier Trees

The water needs of turf lawns and trees are different. If trees are in grass areas, their roots often stay close to the surface and can compete with the grass for water.

Trees need deep, infrequent watering so that their roots reach down and establish a strong anchor in the soil. This helps them withstand adverse weather and windy conditions better than shallow-rooted trees planted too close to turf areas.

In addition, removing turf from around trees can help protect trees from being damaged by lawnmowers, string trimmers, and herbicides that may be used in grass areas.

5. Soil Improvement and Cooling

Groundcovers can improve soil quality by adding organic matter and preventing soil erosion¹. Additionally, they can help cool the area, reducing the heat island effect common in urban landscapes. Use groundcovers to create attractive living mulches that reduce weed growth by providing a thick mat of vegetation over the ground.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

Conclusion

In our fight to conserve natural resources, each effort matters. Replacing unused grass with low-water-use groundcovers is one such step we can take in our own yards. Not only does this switch save water and reduce maintenance, but it also enhances biodiversity and improves soil health. As you plan your next landscaping project, consider incorporating low-water-use groundcovers.

Remember, the key to successful groundcover landscaping lies in choosing the right plants for your specific region and soil type, grouping plants according to similar water needs, and practicing efficient watering methods. With these tips in mind, you’re on your way to creating a beautiful, sustainable landscape.

Tired of your lawn’s high maintenance and water demands? Consider these low-water-use ground covers as lawn alternatives.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

Footnotes

1. Utah State University Extension ↩

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These lawn alternatives aren’t exactly like grass and aren’t meant for high traffic areas. However, they offer many benefits, including cooling the soil, promoting biodiversity, and providing food and shelter for insects and pollinators. Unlike the high-water-use monoculture of grass, these low-water-use groundcovers add color and texture to your landscape while helping you save water.

Let’s dive into these fantastic grass-replacement options:

10 Lawn Alternatives for Hot Climate Areas Like Arizona

1. Gray Ice Plant (Malephora crocea)

The Gray Ice Plant, native to South Africa, is a versatile groundcover that thrives in full sun and can withstand temperatures as low as 20°F (-6.7°C). With very low water needs and a moderate growth rate, it matures at a height of 1 foot (30cm) and spans an impressive width of 6 feet (1.8m) in a trailing form. It’s evergreen with coarse, gray-green foliage.

The plant produces striking orange to red flowers with a yellow center in the spring season. Non-allergenic and thornless, it creates little litter, making it low-maintenance. As a bonus, it also grows well in containers.

2. Tufted Evening Primrose (Oenothera caespitosa)

The Tufted Evening Primrose is a stunning groundcover plant native to the Western U.S. and Mexico. Known for its large, showy-white flowers that fade to pink in spring and fall, this plant adds a touch of elegance to any landscape. Its flowers are not only beautiful but also fragrant, opening from dusk to early morning.

Tufted Evening Primrose grows well in full sun to partial sun conditions and withstands temperatures as low as 10°F (-12.2°C). It requires low to moderate watering, making it a water-efficient choice for your garden. This plant can grow up to 1 foot tall and 2 feet wide (30cm tall and 60 cm wide). It forms a clumping shape, providing good ground coverage.

3. Blue Euphorbia (Euphorbia rigida)

Blue Euphorbia is a Mediterranean groundcover plant that loves full sun and can handle temperatures down to 15°F (about -9°C). A slow to moderate grower, it reaches about 2 feet (60 cm) high and 3 feet (90 cm) wide. Its evergreen, blue-green leaves have a coarse texture.

This grass alternative features green flowers in winter and spring. The sap can irritate the skin. It’s low-litter, thorn-free, rabbit-resistant, and pool-friendly.

4. Damianita (Chrysactinia mexicana)

Damianita is a small shrub that loves the sun and requires little water once established.

This evergreen plant loves full or reflected sun and is hardy to 0°F (-18°C). A slow grower, it tops out at about a foot tall (30cm) and 2 feet wide (60cm).

Expect yellow daisy-like flowers in spring and fall, but the dark green leaves are vibrant throughout the year. Low litter and thorn free, it’s definitely a pool-friendly plant and a good choice for a low-water-use groundcover.

5. Creeping Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys ‘Prostratum’)

A favorite of many people, Creeping Germander is a lawn alternative that loves full sun (8-12 hours/day) and needs moderate water. It’s hardy, handling temperatures down to 0°F (-18°C). Creeping Germander grows to about 1 foot (30cm) high and 3 feet (90cm) wide.

Its evergreen, medium-green leaves stay vibrant all year round, and it’s thorn-free and non-allergenic. You’ll love its pale pink flowers that bloom in winter and spring. Plus, it’s a great poolside pick, thanks to its low litter.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

6. Trailing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis)

Often considered one of the easiest plants to grow, Lantana is perfect for hot, sunny areas. This lawn alternative is drought-tolerant and produces clusters of lavender or white flowers from spring through winter.

Hardy to only 25°F (-3.9°C), you may need to cover it if we have a frost event. Trailing Lantana stands about 1 foot (30cm) tall with a spread of approximately 4 feet (120cm). The sap may irritate the skin; wear gloves when pruning. My favorite part about Lantana is all of the wildlife it attracts. As a bonus, it is also rabbit-resistant.

7. Bush Morning Glory (Convolvulus cneorum)

Bush Morning Glory is a fast-growing groundcover native to Southern Europe. Thriving in full sun or reflected light, it can withstand temperatures as low as 15°F (-9.4°C) and requires very little water. The silvery-gray, medium-textured, evergreen foliage provides a nice contrast to its funnel-shaped white flowers. It forms a mounding shape that can reach 2 feet (60 cm) in height and spread up to 3 feet (90cm) wide.

You’ll notice that pollinators love the showy white flowers. It’s a low-litter plant with no thorns, making it pool-friendly. Plus, it doesn’t cause allergies or skin irritation, making it a great lawn alternative for any landscape.

8. Myoporum (Myoporum parvifolium)

Myoporum is one of my top choices for a low-growing and fast-spreading lawn alternative. It’s evergreen, drought-tolerant, and thrives in full sun to partial shade. Myoporum can handle temperatures as low as 20°F (-6.7°C). It requires low to moderate watering and even grows well in sloping areas.

Reaching a mature height of 1 foot (30cm) and spreading up to 6 feet (180cm), this lawn alternative provides good cover and is an excellent choice for pool areas and containers. Its bright green, medium-textured foliage is evergreen with small white flowers in the spring.

Myoporum is a low-litter plant with no thorns. However, be cautious not to overwater this plant as it may lead to its death (I learned this the hard way!).

9. Trailing Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’)

Trailing Rosemary is a fragrant groundcover that thrives in full sun. It withstands temperatures as low as 15°F (-9.4°C) and requires low amounts of water.

With a moderate growth rate, it grows about 2 feet (60cm) high and 4 feet (120cm) wide. The leaves are evergreen, and you can expect beautiful blue flowers (that the bees love!) in the spring and winter months.

Rosemary is an excellent choice for gardeners looking for an edible, low-water-use groundcover. Learn more about how to grow rosemary in this blog post.

10. Yellow Dot (Sphagneticola trilobata)

Yellow Dot, or Wedelia, is a sun-loving lawn alternative with evergreen leaves and yellow daisy-like flowers in spring and summer. Its moderate water usage makes it a fast spreader, perfect for quickly covering large areas or containers.

Yellow Dot thrives in various lighting conditions, from full sun to shade, and can withstand temperatures as low as 30°F (-1°C). This lawn alternative has a mature height of about 2 feet (60cm) and can spread up to 6 feet (1.8 m), forming a trailing shape.

This low-litter grass alternative has no thorns but is allergenic, and the sap can irritate the skin. It’s pool-friendly and a versatile choice for various landscaping designs. However, keep an eye on its growth as it can become invasive if not managed.

Choosing any of these low-water-use groundcovers creates a more sustainable, water-efficient, and visually-appealing alternative to traditional grass or artificial turf. Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on vegetables, herbs, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

Want to save water and create a gorgeous, eco-friendly landscape? Learn why replacing grass lawns with low-water-use groundcovers is a good idea.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

Sources for this article about lawn alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert, A Guide to Growing More Than 200 Low-Water Use Plants, published by Arizona Municipal Water Users Association (check local nurseries for free copies).

Perennials for the Southwest: Plants That Flourish in Arid Gardens by Mary Irish.

If this post about low-water-use groundcovers was helpful, please share it.

The post Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Quick-growing annual vines are a beautiful way to cover a trellis, add vertical interest, and provide seasonal shade. The best part about these vines? For the price of a packet of seeds, you can have vines and flowers that make an impact. 

1. Love in a Puff (Cardiospermum halicacabum)

Love in a puff is a simple-to-care-for annual vine with tiny white blossoms and green pods that resemble paper lanterns, also called Balloon Vine or Heartseed Vine.

It’s easy to see how love in a puff gets its name; the puffy lantern encloses dark seeds with a perfect white heart on each one. This delicate vine quickly climbs a trellis as its tendrils reach out.

Blooms last a long time in this easy-growing plant. Each lantern contains seeds that will drop and reseed – deadhead if desired to prevent rampant reseeding. It can be invasive in some climates.

Read this post for more information about how to grow Love in a Puff.

Love in a Puff Seeds

2. Canary Creeper (Tropaeolum peregrinum)

This cousin of nasturtiums loves to climb. Canary creeper vine will quickly and beautifully cover your favorite trellis.

Native to South America, canary creeper flowers resemble the feather wings of a canary. Although it is generally grown as an annual, canary creeper can be a perennial in zones 9 and above. It can grow up to 12 feet in length each year.

The Canary Bird flowers, young leaves, and fruit are edible and, like its cousin the nasturtium, has the same peppery taste.

Read this post for more information about growing Canary Creeper Vine.

Canary Creeper Seeds

3. Purple Hyacinth Bean Vine (Lablab purpureus)

Originally from tropical India and China, these vigorous vines easily cover a fence or trellis, and the blooms are gorgeous in the fall.  Grown as a perennial in zones 10-11, the purple hyacinth bean vine loves the heat. In cooler zones, it is grown as an annual from seeds planted in the spring.

While generally low maintenance, purple hyacinth bean vine requires moist, well-draining soil in a sunny location. 

For more information about how to grow purple hyacinth bean vine, read this post.

Hyacinth Vine Seeds

4. Black-eyed Susan Vine (Thunbergia alata)

Black-eyed Susan vine can quickly cover a trellis with its wide, five-petaled blooms from mid-summer through frost. Use black-eyed Susan vine for bright pops of color on a fence, trellis, groundcover or even in a hanging basket. This vine grows well in containers. Provide support if you want the vines to climb.

Fast-growing tender perennial (zone 10-11) grown as a warm-season annual in zones 2-9. Black-eyed Susan vine thrives in bright sunny locations in all but the hottest climates. 

Read this post for more information about growing Black-Eyed Susan vine.

Black-Eyed Susan Vine Seeds

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas.

In this blog post, find more ways to add vertical space to your garden.

5. Passion Flower (Passiflora caerulea)

The prolific vines of passion flowers produce elaborate flowers. The vines and flowers of this warm region perennial vine attract pollinators and are a host plant for Gulf Fritillary Butterflies.

Soak seeds for 24 hours and direct sow or start indoors prior to planting in the spring or fall. It must be in the ground for the winter before it blooms. Plant seeds ¼” deep.

Grows best in full sun. Provide trellis and water regularly until established. Blooms from summer to fall. Overly rich soil results in fewer blooms. Pruning promotes flowers.

Read this post for more information about growing passion flower vine.

Passiflora Seeds

10 Beautiful Vines To Grow From Seed (continued)

6. Morning Glory Vine

Morning Glory vines are frost-tender, perennial climbing vines and beautiful flowers that quickly overtake a trellis. Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators are drawn to these striking flowers.

Morning glories begin to flower after the summer solstice when daylight gets shorter and continues through frost. Each flower only lasts a day; it opens in the morning and closes in the evening.

NOTE: Check local planting regulations before planting, as many varieties of morning glory are considered invasive in some areas (including Arizona).

Read this post for more information about growing morning glory vine.

Morning Glory Seeds

7. Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus)

Old-fashioned flowering vine with varieties reaching 7 feet (2 meters) or more. Bloom on stems in various colors is often grown for the fragrance. Excellent cut flower. Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.

Read this post for more information about how to grow sweet peas.

Sweet Pea Seeds

8. Malabar Spinach (Basella alba)

Malabar spinach is not a true spinach, but instead from the plant family Basellaceae, the Madeira-vine family of flowering plants. In warm areas, vines often reach 10 to 20 feet (3-6 meters) or longer.

Although they can be left to sprawl on the ground, the vines are best grown on a sturdy trellis. The vine is highly ornamental and is a beautiful and tasty addition to a garden arch, trellis or even a ladder.

Read this post for more information about how to grow Malabar spinach.

Malabar Spinach Seeds

9. Cardinal Climber Vine (Ipomoea sloteri)

Cardinal climber brings the butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular red flowers that bloom from spring through frost. The fern-like leaves resemble mini palm leaves as it twists and climbs nearly anything in their path. Learn how to grow Cardinal climber vine and add some to your garden today.

The Cardinal climber vine is a member of the morning glory family, which accounts for its vigorous climbing habits. Provide support for the twining stems and then stand back and watch it grow.

No fertilizer or deadheading is needed. The vine is useful for decorating fences, arbors, or mailboxes.

Read this post for more information about how to grow Cardinal Climber vine.

Cardinal Climber Seeds

10. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

The nasturtiums planted in the cement blocks of my garden border are a familiar and much loved part of my winter garden. There are also trailing varieties that grow well up a trellis.

Nasturtiums prefer cooler weather, so in warm climates grow plants in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun) to prolong their growing season. In cool climates, plant nasturtiums in full sun.If you want an abundance of flowers, do not fertilize nasturtiums.

Read this post for more information about how to grow nasturtiums.

Nasturtium Seeds

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on vines, herbs, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

If this post about 10 beautiful vines that grow from seed was helpful, please share it:

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Article Outline:

1. Choose the right location for sweet potato vine
2. Plant sweet potato vine at the right time
3. Experiment with different varieties of sweet potato vine
4. Care for sweet potato vine correctly
5. How to propagate sweet potato vine

5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Potato Vine

1. Choose the right location for sweet potato vine

Sweet potato vine thrives with plenty of sunshine; look for an area that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Although it loves the sun, it will grow (albeit more slowly) in partial shade as well. In the low desert of Arizona, sweet potato vine will grow in full sun, but is happiest with a little afternoon shade.

Choose a location with rich, well-draining soil. Amend the planting area with compost prior to planting. Space plants 1-2 feet apart, depending on the variety.

2. Plant sweet potato vine at the right time

Sweet potato vines are warm-loving plants and should be planted in the spring once temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). Once temperatures warm up, plant sweet potato vine anytime – even during the heat of the summer. In the hottest times of the year, the leaves may die back a bit, but as long as you keep it evenly moist, the roots will settle in and begin producing new leaves. 

Sweet potato vine is very frost sensitive and the leaves will die back and may turn black in freezing temperatures. In mild winter areas (zones 9-11) like the low desert of Arizona, it is possible to overwinter sweet potato vine. Cover it if there is a frost event. 

3. Experiment with different varieties of sweet potato vine

The different forms of sweet potato vine can add beauty and interest throughout your landscape. Sweet potato vine makes a beautiful bedding plant and quickly fills large areas. Use more compact types as a border along a flower bed.

Sweet potato vine also grows well in containers, window boxes, and hanging baskets. Choose a container that is at least 6 inches deep and plant compact varieties. 

Angelonia makes a great upright “thriller” in containers planted with trailing sweet potato vine. If you’re designing summer containers, read how to grow angelonia for tips on getting started.

Look for a wide range of colors of sweet potato vine, including deep purple, lime green, bronze, dark green, and pale purple.

4. Care for sweet potato vine correctly

• Sweet potato vine thrives in hot, humid conditions, but tolerates some drought. Even watering encourages more vigorous plants. 
• Lightly prune or shape as needed throughout the growing season to keep sweet potato vine in check. 
• Fertile soil is often enough for vigorous plants, but a water-soluble fertilizer can be applied monthly to encourage growth. 
• Potential problems may include:
  • Leaves turning yellow or brown indicate root rot or fungal infections. This is often caused by overwatering or water-logged soil. 
  • Holes in leaves indicate pest problems; this is usually minor and best left untreated. 
  • Wilted leaves are often caused by lack of water.

5. How to propagate sweet potato vine

Whether you want to add sweet potato vine to other areas of your garden, share it with friends, or overwinter it for planting the following spring, sweet potato vine is easy to propagate. 

 The most common way to propagate sweet potato vine is from cuttings. 

• Use clean, sharp garden snippers (these are my favorite) and cut off a branch with several leaf nodes (places where the leaves attach to the branch). 
• Remove the leaves off the bottom several inches.
• Place the cut stem in water in a jar in a sunny location.
• Roots will form after just a few days (plant anytime after roots develop).
• Replenish water daily and refresh water every couple of weeks to discourage bacteria until you are ready to plant. 

You can also propagate sweet potato vine from tubers. 

• Before the first frost, dig up the tubers and let them dry. 
• Bury tubers in a box of vermiculite (not touching) and place in a cool, dry location.
• Inspect tubers prior to planting. Remove discolored areas. 
• Divide tubers if desired, ensuring each tuber has at least one eye and some roots. 
• Plant tubers 2 inches deep in the spring.  

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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The pink flower clusters with curling tendrils of coral vine are also impressive in floral arrangements. Coral vine is definitely a crowd- and bee-pleaser. 

3 Tips For How To Grow Coral Vine

1. Before planting, learn if coral vine is considered an invasive species where you live.

Coral vine (Antigonon leptopus) is also aptly called Queen’s Wreath, Mexican Creeper, and Chain of Love. It is a fast-growing tropical vine with showy pink and white flowers that grows in USDA zones 9-11. 

This Mexican native plant is considered invasive in certain parts of the world, including some south-eastern areas of the United States such as Florida. However, in dry, desert regions of the U.S., like Arizona, it is a rapid grower but not considered invasive.  

This website has information to help you determine if coral vine is considered invasive in your area. If it is invasive where you live, do not plant it.  

What is an invasive species? 

An invasive species is “an alien species whose introduction does or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health” as per Executive Order 13112: Section1. Definitions.

2. Understand how coral vine grows.

Coral vine is grown from seed or transplant. Transplants are usually the best option.

• In some areas, underground tubers develop as the plant grows and spreads the vine to other areas.
• Coral vine also readily self-seeds as small seeds drop from within the dried flower petals. 
• The thornless vines with deep green heart-shaped leaves and tendrils will readily climb a trellis or any available area. 
• Coral vine begins to bloom in August, with peak blooms in October until frost. 
• The showy pink flowers attract bees, and hundreds of bees are often along the vine in full bloom. 
• Frost kills the vines, but underground tubers send out new shoots the following spring. Cut back the vines to nearly ground level once the danger of frost is passed in the spring.

3. Care for coral vine correctly.

• Plant coral vine transplants (preferred) or seeds after the danger of frost has passed. 
• Choose a location to plant coral vine that you want to shade in the summer but have sun in the winter, as the vine will die back and be dormant in the coldest months of the year. (see photos below)
• Give coral vine plenty of room to spread; the vine is vigorous and does well on an arbor or large trellis.
• Coral vine tolerates most soils and does not need fertilizer or overly-rich soil. 
• Water coral vine frequently when first planted. Once established, coral vine is drought tolerant and only needs water weekly during summer or dry spells. 
• Coral vine thrives in full sun (even Arizona’s full sun) and heat; it will tolerate partial shade. 
• Trim vines back as needed throughout the growing season. 
• Prune back and remove all browned vines after frost. Vines can also be left to overwinter and pruned back in the spring. Mulch to protect tubers from freezing temperatures. 
• Vines will rapidly regrow in the spring. 

Coral vine season by season

Pollinators love coral vine

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?

This is just one of 10 vines that grow well from seed. Learn more about my other favorites in this blog post.

This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one. 

Want to add more color to your garden with flowers?

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Want more information about gardening in Arizona? This blog post shares 7 tips for  how to grow a vegetable garden in Arizona. 

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This final step in planting a tree is crucial if you want to remember ‘what’ and ‘when’ you planted the tree. Future generations and property owners will thank you for your foresight in labeling your tree.

Why should I label my fruit trees?

• Organization. Know what is growing on your property.
• Source of valuable information such as where tree was purchased and date planted.
• Visitors can enjoy knowing what is growing in your yard. 
• When you move or pass on property, new owner knows what is growing. 

What should be included on the label for the fruit tree? 

• Type and variety of tree.
• When tree was planted.
• Where tree was purchased.
• Rootstock (if known).
• Any other pertinent information you would like.

How should I label fruit trees?

There are several different methods for labeling fruit trees (3 options are discussed below). Each method requires upkeep. Decide which method or combination of methods will work for you. Look for the label to be weatherproof if you want it to last.

How to label fruit trees (option #1): Hang an embossable plant marker on a branch in the tree

Aluminum markers are easily embossed with a ball-point pen. I like this kind from Amazon. Use wire to hang a large loop around a scaffolding branch. Do not attach to main branch, as it could girdle (suffocate) main tree if left unattended for years. 

• Advantages: Easy to use. Stays put in tree. Writing lasts indefinitely.
• Disadvantages: Could girdle branch; must loosen fastener and move to smaller branch as tree grows. 

How to label fruit trees (option #2): Put a plant marker in the ground

Use a metal plant label and write on it with a Sharpie Paint Marker. Learn more in this guide to labeling plants.

• Advantages: Will not girdle plant branch. Writing lasts for several seasons.
• Disadvantages: Can be lost or moved. Writing will fade; need to rewrite after 1-2 years.  

How to label fruit trees (option #3): Make a diagram of yard with trees and fruit trees labeled 

Use Google Earth, an online garden planning tool, or graph paper to map the yard and existing trees. Draw in newly-added trees. Keep an updated copy with your home deed or other documents. Use a binder/folder to keep nursery tags, receipts, etc. for the trees.

• Advantages: Easily see your yard at a glance. 
• Disadvantages: Can get lost. Must keep maintained with new plantings.

Once I’ve labeled my fruit trees, what should I do?

Spend some time keeping the method(s) you choose updated. This is an excellent project for the off-season in your garden. “The palest ink is stronger than memory” holds true here.

• Take a few minutes to document your plantings each time you plant.  
• Walk your yard each season to check on plant labels. Replace worn or broken tags, rewrite faded labels, and move tags to smaller branches.

Questions about growing citrus? This article answers 10 questions about how to grow citrus and includes guidelines for selecting, planting, watering, and fertilizing citrus.

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