What We’ll Cover:

• What Armenian cucumbers are (and why they are not actually cucumbers)
• When and how to plant Armenian cucumber seeds
• Best location and trellis tips for growing Armenian cucumbers
• Watering, pollination, and pruning advice
• How and when to harvest Armenian cucumbers
• How to enjoy the harvest

Are Armenian Cucumbers Really Cucumbers?

Armenian cucumbers, also called yard-long cucumbers or snake melons, are not true cucumbers. They are a variety of musk melon (Cucumis melo var. flexuosus) that looks and tastes like a cucumber but is more tolerant of heat and less prone to bitterness.

They were first cultivated in Armenia in the 15th century and are a great choice if you have struggled with bitter or heat-sensitive cucumber varieties in the past. Learn more about why some cucumbers turn bitter here.

When to Plant Armenian Cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers are ideal for hot climates and are one of the few crops you can plant well into the summer.

For the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b and similar):

• Start seeds indoors from February through June
• Plant seeds or transplants in the garden from March through July

In general (for other climates):

• Wait to plant until after the last frost, when soil temperatures are consistently above 65°F (18°C)
• For best germination and growth, soil temperatures between 80 to 90°F (26 to 32°C) are ideal
• In cooler climates, Armenian cucumbers can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last expected frost and transplanted after danger of frost has passed

Direct sowing works best for these vigorous growers. Before planting, amend the soil with compost and make sure it drains well.

Planting tips:

• Plant 2 to 3 seeds ½ to 1 inch (1 to 2 cm) deep, spaced 1 foot (30 cm) apart
• Once seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin to 1 plant per foot
• Try different varieties. Painted Serpent is my personal favorite

If your garden is thriving with heat-tolerant Armenian cucumbers, explore how to grow peanuts for another rewarding crop that loves the heat.

Where to Grow Armenian Cucumbers

Choose a sunny location with at least 6 to 8 hours of sun. Afternoon shade can be helpful in very hot climates but is not essential.

These vines love to climb and benefit from vertical growing. A trellis helps keep fruit straighter and makes harvesting easier.

• Use a sturdy trellis or fence
• Leave at least 1 foot (30 cm) between trellised plants or 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) if allowing them to sprawl
• Rotate planting locations. Avoid areas where melons, squash, or cucumbers grew the previous year

Corn makes a good companion plant and can even serve as a living trellis.

Looking for vertical gardening ideas? Read this post.

Caring for Armenian Cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers need consistent moisture but are more drought-tolerant than common cucumbers.

• Mulch around the base to help retain moisture and keep roots cool
• Water deeply and regularly once vines begin growing

Not sure if you’re watering deeply enough? This article can help.

Pollination

These plants produce both male and female flowers. Male flowers appear first and fall off after blooming. Female flowers appear later and, if pollinated, develop into fruit.

Hand-pollination is rarely necessary. Attract pollinators by planting nearby flowers like basil, oregano, and zinnias.

Pruning Armenian Cucumbers

You do not need to prune, but removing a few side shoots can help improve airflow and manage the size of the plant.

• Cut off any yellowing or diseased leaves
• Remove some side shoots if vines are getting too large, but avoid pruning the main vine

To prune a side shoot:

• Identify the main vine, which grows from the base of the plant
• Find a side shoot growing from the base of a leaf stem
• Cut the side shoot about a quarter inch above its connection to the main vine

Leave some side shoots in place to maintain structure and ensure plenty of male blossoms. Pruning is not exact, so do not worry if you aren’t sure what to prune. The plant will keep growing.

When and How to Harvest Armenian Cucumbers

Frequent harvesting helps keep the plant producing through the season.

• Harvest when fruit is 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) long and about 2½ inches wide
• Larger fruit has tougher skin and bigger seeds and tastes more like watermelon rind
• Pick early in the day and soak in ice water to improve storage time
• Use scissors or pruners to cut the fruit instead of pulling it

Leaving fruit on the vine too long signals the plant to slow or stop production.

How to Use Armenian Cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers are mild, sweet, and never bitter. Generally, the thin skin is tender and does not need peeling.

My favorite ways to use them:

• Raw in salads, sandwiches, or with dip
• Pickled for a crisp and refreshing snack
• Sliced and grilled or added to stir-fries
• Blended into smoothies

They pair well with pork, fish, dill, mint, oregano, feta, and yogurt.

Looking for more tips? Here’s how to grow cucumbers in Arizona.

Final Thoughts

If you have struggled to grow cucumbers in the heat, Armenian cucumbers are worth a try. They handle high temperatures, rarely turn bitter, and produce abundantly through the hottest part of the year.

Learn how to garden through the summer heat with this post.

If you found this guide helpful, please share it with a fellow gardener.

The post How to Grow Armenian Cucumbers appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What Is Malabar Spinach?

Malabar spinach (also known as Basella spinach) isn’t a true spinach. It belongs to the plant family Basellaceae (the Madeira-vine family). There are two primary varieties you can grow:

• Basella rubra: Features green leaves, light pink flowers, and striking purple-red vines. The purple flesh of the ‘Basella rubra’ berry has a vibrant color and can be used to make a rich-colored dye. Get seeds here.
• Basella alba: Boasts green leaves, white flowers, and green vines. Get seeds here.

Both varieties are beautiful, fast-growing vines with succulent-like leaves that flourish in warm weather. They can quickly fill up a trellis or arch, adding beauty and nutrition to your garden.

Also Known As: Ceylon spinach, Vine spinach, or Alugbati (in some cultures)

Learn how to grow traditional varieties of spinach in this guide. Get growing tips for Swiss chard here.

Nutritional Benefits

Malabar spinach isn’t just pretty. It’s also packed with nutrients:

• Vitamins: High in Vitamins A and C
• Minerals: Rich in iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium
• Protein: A good source of plant-based protein
• Antioxidants: Loaded with antioxidants that help fight free radicals

How to Plant Malabar Spinach

When To Plant

Waiting to plant Malabar spinach until once the weather warms in spring is essential. Wait until after your last frost date and the soil has warmed. If you’re in a hot climate like the low desert of Arizona, you can plant from March through May (start seeds indoors from January to March).

Growing From Seeds

• When: In USDA Zones 7 or warmer
• How: Sow seeds about ¼ inch (0.6 cm) deep and spaced 30 cm (12 inches) apart.
• Soil Temperature: Between 65℉ (18°C) and 85℉ (29°C) for best germination. Learn more about how to test soil temperature in this guide.

Growing From Transplants

• Start Indoors: About six weeks before your last frost date.
• Transplant: Once the soil has warmed, and there’s no risk of frost.
• Spacing: Plant seedlings about 12 inches (30 cm) apart.

From Cuttings (can be tricky)

• Prepare Cutting: Take a 6-inch (15 cm) cutting, cutting just below a node.
• Rooting:
  • Option 1: Pot the vine in potting soil or a soilless mix, keeping it well-watered.
  • Option 2: Root cuttings in water before transplanting.
• Direct Planting: Alternatively, plant cuttings directly in the desired area, ensuring the area stays well-watered to allow roots to form.

Tip: Malabar spinach prefers moist, fertile soil high in organic matter. I like to mix compost into the planting area beforehand to give these vines the best start. Learn more about how to compost in this guide.

Where To Plant

Although Basella spinach thrives in the heat, the tastiest leaves are grown in abundant shade. Plant in an area with afternoon shade if possible.

Companion Planting

Good companions include basil, Armenian cucumbers, and other heat-loving vegetables that benefit from similar moisture and sunlight conditions. Learn more about the benefits of companion planting in this guide.

Low-growing crops like lettuce or spinach benefit from the shade provided by cucumber vines. For more great pairings, check out this post on what to plant with cucumbers.

Caring for Malabar Spinach

Proper care ensures your Basella spinach plant stays healthy and productive throughout the growing season. Here’s what you need to know:

Consistent Moisture

Malabar spinach thrives in tropical-like conditions, so consistent moisture is crucial. Here’s how to ensure your plant stays hydrated:

• Watering Needs:
  • In extremely hot regions (like Arizona summers that can exceed 43°C (110℉)), you might need to water daily during heatwaves, monitor your soil.
  • Add a layer of organic mulch around the base to help retain soil moisture and keep roots cool.
• Avoid Drying Out: If the plant dries out, it may bolt (flower and set seed), causing the leaves to turn bitter.

Related Post: How I Set Up My Simple DIY Irrigation System

Fertilizing

To keep your Malabar spinach lush and productive:

• Soil Enrichment: Use compost or balanced organic fertilizers to keep the soil nutrient-rich.
• Frequency: Apply fertilizer once or twice during the growing season for optimal growth.

Pest Management

While Malabar spinach is relatively problem-free, keep an eye out for common garden pests:

• Snails and Slugs: They love these succulent leaves. Use barriers like copper tape or traps, or manually remove them in the early morning.
• Aphids: These tiny pests can be managed with a strong water spray, or allow beneficial insects to act as pest control.

Pruning and Support

• Pruning: Regularly prune to encourage bushier growth and prevent the vine from becoming too tangled.
• Support: Ensure the trellis or support structure is sturdy enough to handle the heavy vines, especially as they grow longer.

Related Post: DIY Garden Trellis Ideas

Harvesting Malabar Spinach

You can start harvesting Basella spinach leaves once the vines have at least 8–10 leaves. Here’s how to do it effectively:

• Harvesting Technique:
  • Smaller Leaves: Pick leaves from the tips of the vines regularly.
  • Larger Vines: Allow them to grow longer, then cut them back to encourage branching.
• Maintenance: Always leave at least six leaves on the vine to ensure continued growth.
• Storage: Malabar spinach doesn’t store well, so use it fresh.

At the end of the season, Malabar spinach sets flowers, which turn into deep purple berries (drupes) with seeds inside.

Save the seeds by drying the berries whole. Plant the seeds the following year. Malabar spinach often reseeds itself from dropped berries as well. Allow volunteer seedlings to sprout, then transplant them where you want them to grow in your garden. Learn more about saving seeds in this guide.

Enjoying Malabar Spinach in the Kitchen

Its leaves have a mildly peppery, citrus flavor—similar to regular spinach. Eat young leaves for the best flavor and texture.

Culinary Uses:

• Raw: Toss young leaves in salads or blend them into green smoothies.
• Cooked: Add to stir-fries, soups, or sauté like kale or Swiss chard. A little vinegar or lemon juice can help reduce its natural sliminess (mucilaginous texture).
• Favorite Recipe: My favorite way to enjoy it? A quick stir-fry with garlic, onions, and a splash of vinegar.

Read this post for my favorite Swiss chard recipes. Substitute Basella spinach for chard in the recipes.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Personal Experiences and Tips

From my garden, I’m amazed at how Malabar spinach survives (and thrives) in intense summer heat. Temperatures in my area regularly hover around 43°C (110℉) for weeks. Despite that, the Basella spinach vines stay lush—provided they get enough water.

My Top Tips:

• Container Growing: If you’re short on space, try growing it in a large container with a trellis. This also makes moving the plant easier if you need to provide extra shade during a heatwave. Learn more about container gardening in this guide.
• Pest Control: Watch out for snails or slugs if you’re in a humid area; they love these succulent leaves. Using organic barriers or traps can help keep them at bay.
• Shade: It can grow in full sun but will flower more quickly. I’ve found the leaves inside the trellis that get shaded by the rest of the plant are better tasting.
• Pruning: Regular pruning keeps the plant manageable and encourages bushier growth, increasing yield.
• Clean up Seeds: Basella spinach produces a large number of seeds. Keep mature seeds harvested to prevent rampant reseeding.

I remember the first time I grew Malabar spinach—I planted it late in the season, but it still took off in the scorching summer heat. It became a stunning centerpiece on my garden arch and provided a continuous supply of fresh greens.

Sources for further reading and final thoughts

• Comprehensive Nutritional Information on Basella
• 5 Health Benefits of Malabar Spinach

The Malabar spinach plant is a beautiful, heat-loving alternative to traditional spinach. From its rapid growth to its ornamental vines and nutritious leaves, it’s a must-try for anyone gardening in warm climates. Provide it with consistent moisture, room to climb, and a bit of shade during the hottest parts of the day. In return, you’ll be rewarded with a delicious, versatile green for your summer meals.

If you try it this season, I’d love to hear your experiences in the comments. If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post Plant Malabar Spinach: Growing Basella Spinach appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

• Why Grow Grapes in Arizona?
• Choosing the Right Grape Variety
• Preparing Your Soil
• Planting Your Grapevines
• Supporting Grapevines
• Training and Pruning Grapes
• Watering and Fertilizing
• Fruit Thinning
• Protecting Your Grapes from Pests and Diseases
• Harvesting Your Grapes

Why Grow Grapes in Arizona and other hot climates?

Although the desert presents challenges for growing many things, fortunately, grapes are well suited to growing in hot climates. Abundant sunshine helps grapevines thrive. Grapes also are adaptable to many soil types. A well-cared-for grapevine can produce fruit for decades, even in the deserts of Arizona. 

Learn about other perennials and perennial herbs that grow well in Arizona in these guides.

Choosing the Right Grape Variety

Selecting a grape variety suited to your specific elevation is key. In Arizona’s lower elevations (70 to 4,500 feet), European grapes (Vitis vinifera) are your best bet. They prefer warm summers and moderate winters, making them perfect for the low desert. These grapes are versatile—great for fresh eating, making raisins, jelly, juice, and even wine. Some popular European varieties include:

• Thompson Seedless: Light green, seedless, and perfect for fresh eating or raisins.
• Flame Seedless: Red, sweet, sweet, seedless berries for snacking.
• Perlette: Pale green, seedless berries with a unique Muscat flavor.

If you live at a higher elevation (above 4,500 feet), American grapes (Vitis labrusca) and French hybrids are more cold-hardy and better suited to cooler climates.

Preparing Your Soil

Choose a site that gets full sun—grapes need plenty of light to thrive. Most of my vines grow against a west‑facing wall, and they tolerate the intense sun better than I thought they would. I once planted one with a northern exposure; they never received enough light and struggled. After moving it to a sunnier spot, the vines finally took off.

Grapes prefer loamy soils with good drainage. While they can adapt to different soil types, avoiding heavy clay soils or areas with shallow caliche layers that hinder water drainage is best. Not sure if it drains well? After digging your hole, fill it with water. The water should drain out within an hour or two. If you’re unsure about your soil’s quality, consider getting it tested. Adding compost can improve moisture retention and increase organic matter, giving your vines a healthy start.

Planting Your Grapevines

Plant your grapevines in early spring, after the last frost. You can also plant grapes in the fall if you live in the low desert of Arizona. If you’re using bare-root vines, keep the roots moist before planting. Plant potted vines with their existing soil.

Here’s how to plant your vines:

1. Dig a Hole: Make it about 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) wide and 1-2 feet (30-60 cm)deep.
2. Spacing: Allow 6-7 feet (1.8-2.1 m) between plants. For French hybrids, allow 8-9 feet (2.4-2.7m).
3. Prepare the Vine: Trim any broken roots and cut back the roots on bare root plants to about 4-5 inches (10-12 cm). If there are multiple shoots, keep one and trim it to two buds.
4. Planting: Place the vine in the hole, backfill it with native soil, and top it with a thick layer of compost. Firm the soil around the plant.
5. Watering: Water thoroughly after planting, then wait until you see new leaves before watering again.

Keep the area around your vine free of weeds and grass–they can choke out the young vines. Mulching can help control weeds and retain soil moisture. Learn more about mulching in this guide.

Supporting Grapevines

Grapevines need support to grow properly. You can use fences, trellises, arbors, or even single stakes. If using a stake, place a seven-foot (2.1 m) stake about two feet into the ground next to your vine. This helps train the vine to grow straight and strong.

See this vine growing guide if you’re looking for more vines that thrive in the desert.

Training and Pruning Grapes

Training your grapevine involves guiding it to develop a strong trunk and root system. In the first year, select the straightest shoot and tie it to your stake, removing any other shoots. Allow it to grow to about 42 inches (106 cm) tall.

Pruning is essential for healthy grape production. Grapes produce fruit on one-year-old wood, so annual pruning balances fruit and new growth. In the first couple of years, focus on establishing a strong framework rather than fruit production. By the third year, your vine will be ready to produce grapes.

Here’s a simple pruning guide:

• First Dormant Season: After the first growing season, prune back to establish your main trunk and a few select canes.
• Second Dormant Season: Select four healthy canes to keep (two near the top and two lower down) and prune the rest. Cut these canes back to 8-12 buds, depending on the vine’s vigor.
• Subsequent Seasons: Each year, remove the old fruiting canes and select new ones from the previous season’s growth.

Pruning may seem overwhelming, and you will probably make mistakes. It doesn’t need to be perfect. Aim to learn a little more each season, and you will improve over time.

Watering and Fertilizing

Grapes have deep roots and prefer infrequent, deep watering. In the summer, water every 7-10 days, ensuring the top few inches of the soil dries out a bit between waterings. The most important time for water is when leaves and grape clusters are developing.

Grapes are deciduous and will need minimal water in the winter. Learn more about how to water your garden in this guide.

For newly planted grapevines, giving them a light feeding in April can provide a helpful boost. Starting in the spring of the third year, begin a regular fertilization routine using a balanced organic fertilizer. Apply it each February and May to support healthy growth and fruit production. Alternatively, you can enrich your soil several times a year with compost and worm castings—this is one of my favorite natural methods to nourish your vines. Learn more about this fertilization method here.

Fruit Thinning

To improve the size and quality of your grapes, you can thin the berries and reduce the number of clusters per vine. Before the vines bloom, gently remove about 75% of the berries in each cluster. This allows the remaining grapes to grow larger and sweeter. Also, consider limiting the number of clusters to about 20-25 per vine for optimal results.

Protecting Your Grapes from Pests and Diseases

Keeping your grapevines healthy involves staying vigilant against pests and diseases that can affect them in Arizona’s warm climate.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are tiny, winged insects that can be a nuisance to your grapevines. They feed on the sap of the leaves, causing them to yellow, wilt, and potentially stunt the growth of your vines. Additionally, whiteflies excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which can lead to the growth of sooty mold on the leaves.

Managing Whiteflies:

• Regular Monitoring: Keep a close eye on your grapevines, especially the undersides of the leaves where whiteflies like to hide. Early detection makes it much easier to manage them.
• Natural Predators: Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps, which naturally prey on whiteflies. Planting flowers such as marigolds or alyssum nearby can attract these helpful allies.
• Insecticidal Soaps: If you notice a significant infestation, using insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils can help reduce whitefly populations. Be sure to follow the product instructions carefully.
• Cultural Practices: Remove heavily infested leaves and dispose of them properly to prevent the whiteflies from spreading. Keeping your vines healthy through proper watering and fertilization can also make them less susceptible to pests.

Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer

As the warm days of May arrive, it’s important to watch out for the Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer (Harrisina metallica). This moth’s larvae have a voracious appetite for grape leaves and can cause serious damage if not promptly addressed.

The adult moths lay eggs on the underside of grape leaves. When the larvae hatch, they feed in large groups, munching away at the leaf tissue and leaving only the veins—a process known as skeletonizing. Severe infestations can defoliate entire vines, reducing photosynthesis and leading to a significant drop in grape production.

Managing the Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer:

• Stay Alert: Regularly inspect your grapevines for eggs, larvae, or signs of feeding damage. Early detection can make management much easier.
• Welcome Beneficial Insects: Introducing natural predators like the parasitic wasp (Apanteles harrisinae) and the tachinid fly (Ametadoria misella) can help control the larvae population.
• Consider Organic Insecticides: If you notice a severe infestation, organic options like Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Bt) or Spinosad can be effective against the larvae while being environmentally friendly. See Bt on Amazon.
• Practice Good Garden Hygiene: Remove fallen leaves and debris from around your grapevines to reduce places where larvae can pupate, helping to break the pest’s life cycle.

Other Pests and Diseases

Don’t forget about other common pests like grape leafhoppers, which can cause leaves to appear speckled or bronze. Insecticidal soaps can help manage these tiny sap-sucking insects.

Regular monitoring can keep your vines healthy from diseases like powdery mildew. If spotted, use the recommendations in this guide to treat powdery mildew. 

Harvesting Your Grapes

By the third or fourth year, your patience will pay off! Grapes are typically ready to harvest when they have full color and sweet flavor. Enjoy them fresh, or try your hand at making raisins or jelly.

Grapes left on the vine too long in the heat will become raisins all on thier own! Don’t forget to harvest and enjoy your grapes.

Conclusion

I love having grapes growing in my garden. They are one of several perennials that, with a bit of seasonal care, provide abundant harvests for years. Questions about how to grow grapes? Ask them in the comments. 

Sources

• Growing Grapes in the Home Garden by Tom DeGomez. The University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. 2015
• Understanding the Western Grapeleaf Skeletonizer:Management in Commercial Vineyards. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Arizona Pest Management Center. 09/23

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Article Index

1. Select the Best Variety for Your Climate
2. Prepare the Perfect Planting Spot
3. Plant Watermelon Seeds Directly in Warm Soil
4. Ensure Blossoms are Pollinated
5. Provide Optimal Conditions for Large, Sweet Fruit
6. Protect Watermelon from Pests
7. Harvest Watermelon at the Perfect Time

7 Tips for How to Grow Watermelon

Watermelon needs plenty of space and at least 80 days of warm temperatures to grow well. If you can provide these conditions, learn how to grow watermelon with these tips.

1. Select the Best Variety for Your Climate

Most varieties do well in warm climates. Some favorites include Crimson Sweet and Moon and Stars. Try this storage watermelon, Diné Origin Sweet Storage Watermelon, which will keep for months.

In hot summer climates like the low desert of Arizona, choose short-season varieties or types adapted to the heat of the summer, such as Pueblo Watermelon, Sugar Baby, and Hopi Yellow.

In cooler climates, choose short-season varieties such as Sweet Siberian Watermelon, Sugar Baby, or Jeremiah the Bullfrog Watermelon.

Smaller growing space? Choose shorter-vining varieties such as Bush Sugar Baby or Cal Sweet Bush. 

2. Prepare the Perfect Planting Spot

Choose a site for planting that receives plentiful sunlight (at least 6-8 hours). They prefer well-draining soil that’s slightly acidic to neutral. Think sandy loam or loamy soil. Mix in some compost or aged manure. Boost the soil further with a balanced organic fertilizer. Check your soil’s pH and nutrient levels if you’re not sure.

Watermelons need plenty of room to spread. Vines can grow up to 20 feet (6 m) long, so ensure your garden has enough space.

Grow two watermelon plants in one 4 x 8 foot (1.2 x 2.4 m) bed or one plant in a 4 x 4 (1.2 x 1.2 m) foot bed. If you’re tight on space, you might want to try shorter-vining varieties or even grow them in containers or vertically. Growing vertically? Use melon cradles to support the fruit.

If using square foot gardening, plant shorter bush varieties, plant at the end or corner of a bed, and plan on one plant per 3-4 squares. 

3. Plant Watermelon Seeds Directly in Warm Soil

Watermelons do best when sown directly into warm soil (70°F/21°C) or higher. (Use a soil thermometer to check the temperature.) Plant 2-3 weeks after the last frost date. In the low desert of Arizona, March is the best time to plant.

Sow seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep and 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5 m) apart. Thin to the strongest seedling once they emerge. If you’re in a cooler climate, start seeds indoors about 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Handle the young plants gently, keep the soil moist, and avoid disturbing the roots when you transplant.

4. Ensure Blossoms are Pollinated

Watermelon plants need pollination from male to female flowers. If you don’t have enough natural pollinators, you might need to hand-pollinate. Planting flowers at the ends of your beds can help attract bees and other pollinators.

5. Provide Optimal Conditions for Large, Sweet Fruit

Watermelons really live up to their name—they need a lot of water! Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when the plants are setting fruit. Water deeply and let the top couple of inches dry out between waterings. If possilbe, avoid watering the last week before harvest to prevent bland fruit and split melons.

Start with rich soil, and once the plants begin flowering, switch to a flowering fertilzer. Too much nitrogen will lead to lots of leaves but fewer fruits. Mulch around your plants to keep the soil moist and weed-free.

Let the vines grow naturally and avoid pruning, as the leaves help sweeten the fruit. For bigger and more flavorful melons, limit the fruit to 1-2 per plant. As the season winds down and frost approaches, remove smaller fruits to let the larger ones fully mature.

6. Protect Watermelon from Pests

Keep fruit off the ground with cardboard or melon cradles to protect them from pests like beetles and pill bugs. Check leaves for squash bugs and their eggs. Mesh bags and traps can help with rats. For powdery mildew, remove affected leaves and spray with a mix of potassium bicarbonate powder and liquid castile soap. Learn more in this blog post.

7. Harvest Watermelon at the Perfect Time

Watermelons won’t ripen further once picked, so wait until they’re fully ripe. Cut the stem just above the melon to harvest. Knowing when to harvest is key. Look for these signs:

• The underside of the watermelon turns creamy yellow.
• The tendril at the stem end turns brown.
• The rind changes from a slick sheen to a dull appearance.
• A deep, low-pitched thump when tapped.

For the best flavor, store whole watermelons at room temperature and eat them within a week or two. They’ll last a bit longer in the fridge, but the taste and texture might not be as great. Juice any extra watermelon and freeze it.

Remember to give watermelons space, warmth, and time; you’ll be rewarded with a sweet, juicy harvest. Do you have questions or tips of your own? Drop a comment below.

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The post How to Grow Watermelon: 7 Tips for a Sweet Harvest appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

• Choose a cantaloupe variety suited to your climate and growing conditions
• When to plant cantaloupe
• How and where to plant cantaloupe
• How to care for cantaloupe throughout the season
• Should you prune cantaloupe plants?
• Tips for growing sweet cantaloupe that is full of flavor
• When to harvest cantaloupe for the sweetest flavor

Choose a cantaloupe variety suited to your climate and growing conditions

Each climate and garden is different; luckily, there is probably a type of cantaloupe that will grow well where you live. Check with local growers or seed companies for their suggestions. You can also use these ideas to help you find the best cantaloupe for your area. If you have a short growing season, look for shorter days to harvest varieties.

• Ambrosia – sweet variety; resistant to powdery mildew.
• Mini Sugar Cube – disease resistant; small fruits; only 75 days to harvest.
• Hale’s Best Jumbo * – sweet and large; only 80 days to harvest.
• Planter’s Jumbo – does best in hot climates; resistant to powdery mildew.
• Chimayo Melon – Spanish heirloom from New Mexico.
• Hearts of Gold * – old fashioned variety with sweet flavor; only 80 days to harvest.
• Minnesota Midget – short-season variety; compact vines. 

* = My favorite varieties to grow in the low desert of Arizona.

When to plant cantaloupe

Cantaloupe prefers warm weather, so don’t plant it before temperatures have warmed in the spring. Cantaloupe does best when direct sown. Sow seeds outside about 2 weeks after the last frost date when soil temperatures are about 65℉ (18°C). In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to plant cantaloupe is from February 15 through July. 

In cooler zones, transplants are probably a good idea. Start seeds indoors about 3 weeks before planting outside. Transplant cantaloupe seedlings 1-2 weeks after your last frost date or when the soil is at least 65℉ (18°C) and nighttime temperatures are above 50℉ (10°C). Be careful not to disturb roots when planting to avoid transplant shock.

How and where to plant cantaloupe

Cantaloupe prefers a sunny location with well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Prior to planting, amend the soil with compost and a balanced organic fertilizer. Rich soil produces sweeter cantaloupes.

• Plant 2-3 seeds 1/4″ (.6 cm) deep.
• Thin seedlings and keep only the strongest seedling in each group. 

Spacing:

• Space plants 24-36″ (60-90 cm) apart if left to sprawl on the ground. 
• Space plants 12-18″ (30-45 cm) apart if growing up a trellis. 
• If using square-foot gardening methods, allow 1-3 square feet for each plant if grown at the end of a bed or on a trellis. Allow more room for other areas. 

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas. Find even more ways to add vertical space to your garden in this blog post.

How to care for cantaloupe throughout the season

Cantaloupe thrives in warm weather and grows best when it gets regular water and plenty of sunshine.

• Water plants deeply to encourage strong root development. Allow the top couple of inches of soil to dry out before watering again.
• Mulch cantaloupe plants to help retain moisture, regulate temperature, control weeds, and keep fruit clean.
• Male flowers will appear first, followed by female flowers. If female fruit withers and dies, consider hand-pollinating future blooms. 

For troubleshooting tips for common cantaloupe growing problems, read this article.

Should you prune cantaloupe plants?

Generally, allowing more leaves to remain on the vine sweetens the fruit, so pruning cantaloupe isn’t necessary. However, there are situations where it’s helpful.

• Pruning about one-third of the suckers (side shoots that form along the vine where a leaf, tendril, and flower meet) can help with airflow and disease prevention and make plants easier to the trellis.
• Pruning damaged, diseased, or infested leaves can help prevent the disease from spreading to the rest of the plant.
• Pruning off excess fruit helps you grow larger, sweeter melons. For the most flavor, allow only 1-2 melons per plant.
• If you live in a cold climate, remove blossoms that will not have time to develop before your first fall frost. This will allow the fruit already growing to ripen.

Tips for growing sweet cantaloupe that is full of flavor

• Don’t overwater while the fruit is growing. Too much water (or rain) produces bland-tasting fruit.
• Remove additional fruit once several fruits have formed. Ripening only one or two fruit at a time maximizes sweetness. The more fruit ripening on a vine at the same time, the less sweet it will be.
• Do not prune off leaves or shoots. The leaves produce the sugars that sweeten the fruits. 
• About a week before melons are ripe, cut back watering as much as possible to concentrate the fruit’s sugars. 
• Harvest cantaloupe at the right time (see chart below). 

When to harvest cantaloupe for the sweetest flavor

Once picked, cantaloupe will continue to soften, but it won’t get any sweeter. Leaving it on the vine as long as possible gives it the sweetest flavor. When you grow your own cantaloupe, you can pick it at the peak of sweetness. It is so good! 

Melons last 3-5 days if left at room temperature. Uncut cantaloupe stored in the fridge lasts up to 2 weeks. Once the fruit is cut, it will keep for about 3 days in the refrigerator.

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Try different varieties of butternut squash

Butternut squash plants are vigorous and can grow up to several feet long, producing fruits weighing up to several pounds. Butternut squash is known for its high vitamin A and potassium content, making it a nutritious addition to your diet.

There are many varieties of butternut squash to choose from, each with unique characteristics. Here are some of the most popular:

• Waltham Butternut: This classic variety has a sweet taste and smooth texture.
• Butterbush: This smaller variety is ideal for container gardens or small spaces.
• Early Butternut: This variety matures earlier than other butternut squash, making it a good choice for regions with shorter growing seasons.
• Honeynut Winter Squash: Crossed variety with small fruits and resistance to powdery mildew and squash vine borers.
• Block Party Butternut Squash: A new variety that is a consistent producer, even in high heat. My new favorite type.

Learn more about how to grow summer squash, winter squash, and more varieties of summer squash in these posts. (click on the image to read the blog posts)

When to plant butternut squash:

If you live in the low desert region of Arizona, plant butternut squash seeds outdoors in mid-February or early March. This squash has a second planting window during the monsoon season in July or August. 

In other areas, planting dates can vary depending on your location and frost dates. As a general rule, you should plant seeds in the spring once the soil has warmed up and any risk of frost has passed. Butternut squash plants prefer warm weather and can grow in temperatures between 60°F to 105°F (15.5°C to 40.5°C).

How and where to plant:

To start seeds indoors, sow them in individual pots filled with good-quality potting mix. Keep the soil moist and warm (around 70°F or 21°C) until the seeds germinate. Once the seedlings have developed their true leaves, you can transplant them into your garden.

To plant seeds directly in the soil, plant them ½ to 1 inch (1-3 cm) deep. Space them 2-4 feet (.6-1.2 meters) apart if you’re planting in raised beds or containers. You can also use square-foot gardening techniques and plant one butternut squash plant per square foot if growing it vertically.

Butternut squash can be trained to climb a trellis in a Three Sisters raised bed garden, making it a great option for vertical growing in small spaces.

Soil should be well-drained and rich in organic matter. To improve soil fertility, add compost or aged manure.

Butternut squash plants require full sun to grow properly, so choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily – morning sun preferred. If you’re growing butternut squash in hot summer climates like Arizona, providing afternoon shade during the summer months prolongs the growing season.

Caring for butternut squash: 

Water plants deeply when the top couple of inches of soil feels dry. Adding a thick layer of mulch helps the soil retain moisture.

I love growing butternut squash vertically. Give them something to climb. The fruits do not require additional support as they develop. 

The vines produce male and female blossoms. If female blossoms are withering and not developing into fruit, consider hand-pollinating them. Transfer pollen from the male flower to the female blossom when the blooms are open (usually first thing in the morning). 

Tips for growing butternut squash in containers:

Butternut squash can be grown in containers, but choose a large container at least 24 inches (60 cm) deep and wide. Use good-quality potting or raised bed mix and water frequently. Use trellises or stakes to support the plants as they grow. Learn more about how to grow in containers in this blog post.

This crop also plays an important role in the Three Sisters Grow Bag Garden, a traditional companion planting method adapted for containers—learn how to incorporate it alongside beans and corn (or their alternatives) for best results.

Common pest or disease issues:

Butternut squash plants are susceptible to pests and diseases, such as squash bugs, cucumber beetles, and powdery mildew. Growing vertically increases airflow and reduces powdery mildew. It also makes pests easier to spot.

If you see the leaves wilt, it’s a good sign that pests may be present. Check the undersides of all leaves several times a day and remove all stages (adult, nymph, and eggs) of squash bugs or cucumber beetles. Early detection and hand-picking are often the best methods to treat these pests successfully.  Learn more about preventing pests organically in this blog post.

Harvesting and using butternut squash:

Butternut squash takes about 80-100 days to mature, depending on the variety and growing conditions. The fruit is ready to harvest when the skin turns a deep tan color and is hard to penetrate with a fingernail. Cut the fruit from the vine using a sharp knife, leaving a few inches of stem attached. You can also harvest butternut squash when it’s still small and use it like summer squash. 

Once the skin hardens, do not leave on the plant–fruits may split.

To store butternut squash after harvest, keep them in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Butternut squash can last for several months if stored properly. Check fruits frequently for soft spots or mold, and use or discard them right away if present.

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a beginner, learn how to grow butternut squash and see why it’s a popular vegetable for many dishes. 

If this post about how to grow butternut squash was helpful, please share it.

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Passiflora caerulea, commonly known as the Blue Passion Flower, is a beautiful and exotic vine that can add a unique touch to any garden. While native to South America, it has quickly become a favorite among gardeners everywhere (including me).

Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea)

This is what Passion Flower Vine seeds look like. Click here for seeds.

Passion Flower Vine growing on a trellis.

This is what Passion Flower Vine flowers look like.

Passion Flower Vine fruit.

How to grow Passion Flower Vine

Passion Flower Vine planting information:

Direct sow seeds or start indoors 6-8 weeks prior to planting in the spring or fall. Plant seeds ¼” deep.

• Seeds may take some time to germinate; be patient and keep soil hydrated.
• Prefers full sun and deep, well-drained, rich soil.
• Moderate moisture requirements can be somewhat drought-tolerant.

Size and spacing details for Passion Flower Vine:

Plant seeds and/or transplants 5 feet (1.5 m) apart.

Grows to 15-30 feet (4.5-9m) tall; provide a trellis for the long vines.

Passion Flower Vine growing tips:

Grows best in full sun. Water deeply. Allow the top several inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Mulch soil well. In my low desert Arizona garden, I provide shade during the hottest months of the year.

What about Gulf Fritillary Caterpillars?

Gulf Fritillary Butterflies love Passion Flower Vines. I love having a garden full of butterflies, and this is one of the reasons I grow this vine. The caterpillars may overtake the vine and cause severe damage. I allow this to happen and don’t intervene.

The Gulf Fritillary Butterfly and the Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea) share a fascinating yet intricate symbiotic relationship, demonstrating nature’s delicate balance.

The Passion Flower Vine is a host plant to the Gulf Fritillary Butterfly, providing a site for these butterflies to lay their eggs. Though this process may cause damage to the vine, it plays an essential role in the life cycle of the butterfly.

Once the eggs hatch, the emerging larvae feed on the vine. This process, while seemingly destructive, is a crucial part of their growth and development. Despite the harm, the vine often continues to flourish, demonstrating its resilience.

Although the vine is damaged, as the adult butterflies move from flower to flower, seeking nectar, they inadvertently facilitate pollination, helping the plant reproduce. This mutualistic relationship underscores the interconnectedness of ecosystems and the importance of each species’ role in promoting biodiversity.

Passion Flower Vine harvesting tips:

Flowers form first and then develop into fruit. Harvest the fruit when it is yellow or orange in color. The fruit should be soft to the touch. Allow harvested fruit to ripen for a few days at room temperature.

The fruit of the Blue Passion Flower is edible but not especially tasty. We like other varieties of passionfruit much better. My chickens, however, love to eat the fruit. Once harvested, the fruit should be kept in a cool, dry place.

How to save Passion Flower Vine seeds:

I like saving the seeds from Passion Flower to plant again and share with others. Here’s how to do it:

1. Extract the Seeds: Start by extracting the seeds from a ripe passion fruit. Cut the fruit open and scoop out the pulp, which contains the seeds.
2. Begin Fermentation: Place the pulp and seeds into a small, transparent container. Add just enough water to cover the seeds and loosely cover the container. Leave this in a warm place.
3. Wait for Mold: Over the next 3-7 days, a layer of mold will form on the surface. This is a positive sign as it indicates the fermentation process is underway. The fermentation process helps to break down the hard seed coat and remove any germination inhibitors.
4. Rinse and Dry: Once the seeds have fermented, rinse them thoroughly under running water using a fine strainer. After rinsing, spread the seeds out to dry in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight.
5. Store Properly: Store the dried seeds in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to plant them next season. A paper envelope or a glass jar with a good seal works well for storage.

Fermenting Passion Flower seeds has several benefits. It mimics the natural process if the fruit fell to the ground and decomposed naturally. The fermentation process can also help to protect the seeds from diseases and improve their overall health. As a result, you will be more likely to have strong, healthy plants in the coming growing season.

Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?

This is just one of 10 vines that grow well from seed. Learn more about my other favorites in this blog post.

This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one. 

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas.

In this blog post, find more ways to add vertical space to your garden.

If this post about how to grow Passion Flower Vine was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Grow Passion Flower Vine appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

This blog post will cover valuable tips and information to help you grow delicious, crisp, and juicy cucumbers in a hot summer climate. It covers everything you need to know, from planting to harvesting. So, let’s get started!

Choose the Right Variety of Cucumbers When Growing in a Hot Climate

To overcome the challenges of growing cucumbers in hot climates, the key is to plant cucumbers early in the season and plant short-season varieties that will ripen before the hottest days of summer.

Choosing the right variety of cucumbers is crucial in a hot summer climate. There are many varieties of cucumbers, but some are more tolerant of heat and drought than others.

Some recommended varieties include Triumph, Poinsett, Marketmore 76, and Lemon. I’ve also had success with Diva, Japanese, and Armenian, which produce good yields even in high temperatures and dry conditions.

Armenian types are actually a melon that tastes like a cucumber. They are especially suited to hot desert areas and will produce throughout the summer.

For more information on growing Armenian Cucumbers, read this article.

How and When to Plant Cucumbers

Start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before your last frost date, or sow them directly outdoors once the soil has warmed. Plant cucumbers outside when soil temperatures have warmed up to at least 60°F (15°C), typically late spring or early summer.

Planting dates for the low desert of Arizona:

• Start seeds indoors: January – March and July – August 
• Plant outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

Keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid over-watering to prevent diseases. Cucumber seeds generally germinate within 7-10 days. Plant a group of 3 seeds every 12 inches (30cm); when seedlings have 3 leaves, thin to 1 plant every 12 inches (30cm). Good companion plants for cucumbers are bush beans, corn, and cabbage.

Cucumbers thrive in well-draining, fertile soil enriched with organic matter like compost. Choose a location with plenty of sunlight, as they require at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.

Provide Support for Growing Cucumbers

It’s best to provide a trellis or some form of support for cucumbers as they grow. This helps keep them off the ground and keeps the fruit clean and free from rot. Trellising the plants also gives other crops room to grow, as cucumber vines can quickly take over a raised bed.

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas.

In this blog post, find more ways to add vertical space to your garden.

Provide Ample Water and Shade for Cucumbers Grown in Hot Climates

Cucumbers are thirsty plants and require ample water to grow well. In hot summer conditions, they require more water than usual. So make sure to water them regularly and deeply. You can also provide them with shade by using shade cloth or by planting them near taller plants. This will prevent them from getting scorched by the sun and keep them cool.

How to Grow Cucumbers in Hot Climates? MULCH Them!

Mulching your cucumber plants is an excellent way to keep the soil moist and cool during the hot summer months. Use organic materials like straw, leaves, or compost to cover the soil around your cucumber plants. This will help retain moisture, reduce water loss due to evaporation, and keep the soil temperature cool. Learn more about mulching in this blog post.

Understand Cucumber Pollination

Cucumber plants have two primary pollination types: self-pollinating and cross-pollinating.

Self-pollinating cucumbers, also known as parthenocarpic varieties, do not require pollen transfer to produce fruit. Examples of parthenocarpic cucumbers include ‘Diva’, ‘Socrates’, and ‘Tyria’, which are ideal for indoor or greenhouse growing conditions since they can produce fruit without the presence of pollinators like bees.

Cross-pollinating cucumbers rely on the transfer of pollen from male to female flowers within the same plant or between different plants. Examples of cross-pollinating cucumbers are ‘Marketmore 76’, ‘Straight Eight’, and ‘National Pickling’. This process typically requires the assistance of pollinators, such as bees, to ensure successful fruit production. If you find that female fruits are withering and not being pollinated, consider hand-pollinating them.

Watch Out for Pests and Diseases

Healthy plants are more resistant to pest infestations, so do what you can to keep your plant healthy. Keep a close eye on your plants and look for signs of damage, such as wilting, yellowing, or holes in the leaves. Check for pests like aphids, spider mites, and cucumber beetles.

• Practice organic gardening principles to encourage beneficial insects.
• Check plants and undersides of leaves daily. Handpick beetles and remove their eggs. Early detection and intervention can prevent severe damage and make controlling pests easier.
• Use a strong stream of water to dislodge spider mites from the leaves. Make sure to target both the top and underside of the leaves. Repeat this process every few days until the infestation is under control.
• Sprinkle food-grade diatomaceous earth on the affected plants. This natural powder can help kill spider mites by damaging their exoskeletons. Be careful not to over-apply, as it can also impact beneficial insects.
• Avoid over-fertilizing, as excessive nitrogen can encourage spider mite outbreaks.

To prevent diseases, avoid watering the leaves and provide good air circulation around the plants.

Harvest Your Cucumbers at the Right Time

Harvesting cucumbers at the right time is important for the best flavor and texture. Cucumbers should be picked when they are firm but still slightly tender. Cucumbers are best harvested when small, and the flower is still attached.

Overripe cucumbers can get bitter and lose their crispness. So keep a close eye on your plants and harvest regularly to keep the fruits coming.

Harvest cucumbers in the morning when temperatures are cool. Cut the stem or twist rather than pulling at the fruit to break off. Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the quality and life of the picked fruit.

Use Homegrown Cucumbers in a Variety of Ways

Enjoy cucumbers in simple ways, such as raw slices for a crunchy snack or added to salads. Cucumbers also work well in cold soups like gazpacho or blended into smoothies for extra hydration and nutrients.

Pickling is another popular method to preserve and add flavor to cucumbers. For a creative twist, use cucumber slices as a base for appetizers by topping them with spreads, cheeses, or smoked salmon.

Store whole cucumbers in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator, wrapped in foil or a plastic bag. Typically, they stay fresh for up to a week. Once cut, store cucumber slices in an airtight container to maintain their crispness and consume them within a few days.

Growing cucumbers in a hot summer climate can be a challenge, but with the right techniques, you can still enjoy a bountiful harvest. Choose the right variety, provide ample water and shade, mulch your plants, watch out for pests and diseases, and harvest your cucumbers at the right time.

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A little bit about winter squash

Have you ever what the differences are between winter squash and summer squash? 

• Unlike summer squash, winter squash has a thick rind that allows it to be stored for longer periods of time. Many types of winter squash can last well into the winter months. 
• Another distinguishing feature of winter squash is its separate seed cavity, similar to a pumpkin, one of the most well-known types of winter squash. In contrast, summer squash has seeds distributed throughout the fruit. 
• Additionally, the flavor of winter squash improves as it grows and cures, while summer squash is best eaten when harvested young. 
• Although growing winter squash is similar to growing summer squash, more attention is needed. Winter squash requires more space, time, water, and food to grow well.

9 Tips for How to Grow Winter Squash

1. Give winter squash plenty of time to grow

Winter squash needs three months or more of frost-free temperatures. Both the fruit and the vines are frost-sensitive. Plant seeds directly in the garden one to two weeks after the last frost.

Ensure the soil is warm before planting the seeds – about 65°F (18.3°C) or higher, generally, at least two weeks after your last spring frost date.

• Plant the seeds ½ in (1.27cm) deep and at least 8 in (20cm) apart, then water them daily until they sprout. 
• Winter squash may require a long growing season (90+ days) depending on the variety. If you have a short growing season or would rather start seeds indoors. Plant seeds in 4 in(10cm) pots 2-4 weeks before your outside planting date. Do not let seedlings get pot-bound; transplant very carefully once the soil warms up. 
• Read this post for more information about starting seeds indoors. 

In the low desert of Arizona, there are two planting widows for winter squash. Plant winter squash early in the spring, from mid-February to March, and again when the monsoon moisture comes in July and August. 

Established fruit on winter squash will ripen in temperatures up to 100℉, but pollen often won’t be viable to produce new fruit.  Choose smaller types and short-season varieties for the best chance of success when growing winter squash in Arizona.

A note about how to grow pumpkins in Arizona: 

Regular-sized pumpkins may be planted in either February or March or again when the monsoon moisture comes in July and early August.  

Pumpkins planted in February or March should be ready to harvest in May or June. Pumpkins planted in July and early August should be ready by October or November. 

If you are trying to grow super-sized pumpkins in Arizona, plant the seeds in early January.  Provide protection from frost, mulch well,  fertilize regularly, and provide shade throughout the summer. 

Learn more about how to grow pumpkins in this guide.

Looking for pumpkin seeds?

Pumpkins are a type of winter squash. Follow the winter squash planting tips below to grow pumpkins. 

2. Plant different varieties depending on your situation

There are dozens of varieties of winter squash; choose the best one for your location, taste, and garden size.

Not a lot of room? Try bush or more compact varieties. My favorite bush type is Gold Nugget.

Shorter growing season? Grow smaller types and look for varieties with shorter days to harvest. My favorite short-season winter squash is Delicata.

Not a fan of the taste or texture of certain types? Become familiar with the tastes, and grow one you like to eat! My favorite type to eat is Butternut.

Have diseases been a problem in the past? Choose resistant varieties such as Acorn Squash. 

“Baby” Spaghetti Squash – a smaller variety with a short “days to harvest”

What about gourds?

Gourds and winter squash have distinct differences in their usage, appearance, edibility, growing season, and shelf life.

• Gourds are generally used for decorative purposes, have a bitter taste, and come in various shapes.
• On the other hand, winter squash is edible, has a delicious flavor, and is more consistent in appearance.
• Generally, gourds take longer to grow and have a longer shelf life than winter squash.

Birdhouse gourd – an ornamental gourd.

Cucuzza gourd – an edible gourd. Learn more about how to grow cucuzza gourd in this article.

3. Give winter squash room to grow

Plants grow large and can quickly take over a garden. Grow winter squash along the edge of the garden so they can spill outward. Direct growing vines away from other plants as they grow. 

Additionally, train vines up tall ladders and arbors; get creative and find ways to give the growing vines plenty of room and airflow. When grown vertically, larger fruit will benefit from some sort of melon cradle.

• Choose a location to grow winter squash that gets 6-8 hours of sun. 
• The soil should be loose to a depth of 1 foot.
• Rotate each year where you plant to help prevent pests and diseases. Do not plant in the same place that other squash, cucumbers or melons were the previous season. 
• Sow 2-3 seeds about an inch deep. 
• Sow seeds in hills at least 2 feet apart, preferably up to 4-5 feet apart. 
• Thin to the strongest seedling when plants are 2-3 inches tall by snipping other plants. Never pull on the roots as it may disrupt the other seedlings.
• If using square foot gardening, plant winter squash on the outside edge of a bed allowing 2-4 square feet per plant. 

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas.

In this blog post, find more ways to add vertical space to your garden.

4. Supply winter squash with plenty of water

Winter squash plants are happiest with heavy and even watering. Winter squash are typically big plants with big fruit that need a lot of water. 

• Once plants are 3-4 inches tall, mulch plants well to hold in moisture.
• Water slowly and deeply once the top 2 inches of soil has dried out. 
• Water the soil (not the leaves and vines) to help prevent powdery mildew. 
• Leaves may wilt in the afternoon sun but recover once temperatures cool. This is heat stress, not water stress. 
• If squash leaves are wilted in the morning, they need water as soon as possible.

5. Feed winter squash regularly

Plant winter squash in rich, well-draining soil amended with plenty of compost. Work plenty of compost into the soil. When plants begin to blossom and set fruit, feed them with a liquid organic fertilizer or organic granular fertilizer. Feed plants about once a month during the growing season.

6. Be patient when waiting for female blossoms, and hand-pollinate if necessary

Each winter squash plant develops male and female flowers. The way to differentiate between male and female blossoms is by looking at the base of the flower. Male blossoms have a single long stem, while female blossoms have small swollen fruit.

Typically, male blossoms appear first and in large numbers, followed by female blossoms in a few days or weeks.

If you find female fruits are withering and not developing into fruit, consider hand pollinating the female blossoms. This can be done by carefully removing a male blossom, peeling back the petals, and transferring the pollen to the stigma of the female blossom.

7. Stay ahead of common pests and diseases

Healthy soil, planting at the right time, correct watering, and keeping your plants healthy are the best defenses against pests and diseases. Here are more tips to keep your winter squash pest and disease free: 

• Check the underside of leaves daily for signs of squash bugs, borers, and cucumber beetles. Handpick bugs and dispose of eggs. 

• Grow plants vertically, or use plant supports to keep them up off the ground to prevent pest damage.
• Allow enough room for plants to grow freely; good air circulation helps prevent powdery mildew. At the first sign of mildew, remove affected leaves and spray with a sulfur or baking soda solution. 
• Use row covers when plants are young to protect against insects. 
• Plant radishes around the plant to deter pests; allow the radishes to flower and remain in place throughout the season. 
• Other companion planting ideas that can be mutually beneficial and help with insects include borage, oregano, marigolds, nasturtium, lemon balm, corn, and beans. 
• Keep the garden picked up and free from debris that may harbor pests and diseases.

8. Harvest winter squash correctly

Winter squash should be allowed to stay on the vine until fully mature. Winter squash is ready to harvest when the skin of the squash cannot be dented with a fingernail and when the stems shrivel and begin to die.

Do not leave the fruit on the plant too long, or it may split.

If you live in an area with frost, harvest before the first hard frost. If there is a light frost, harvest all fruit right away.

Cut the fruit from the vines leaving 2-3 inches of stem. Do not carry fruit by the stem, as it may break off. Squash without stems does not store as well.

9. Cure and store winter squash properly

Leave winter squash on the ground to cure for about ten days after harvesting. Sunshine toughens the skin and makes fruit sweeter. If high heat or frost makes curing outside impossible, let winter squash cure by a sunny window in your home for two weeks. 

Wipe dirt off fruit, but do not spray off. If desired, use a Clorox wipe to lightly wipe off to help prevent rot during storage. Store in a cool, well-ventilated area for up to 6 months.

Check squash frequently during storage. Use or dispose of any soft squash right away.

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What is cucuzza gourd?

The cucuzza gourd is a long green vegetable that can grow up to 2-3 feet in length (60-90cm). It has light green skin and white flesh, a mild and slightly sweet taste, and a firm texture. Cucuzza gourds are a popular ingredient in Italian cuisine. Thanks to their high fiber and low-calorie content, they are also a healthy addition to your diet. The cucuzza vine is known for being a prolific producer, and its night-blooming white flowers are edible and often pollinated by moths.

It is often called cucuzza squash but belongs to the gourd family (Lagenaria siceraria). The many names of cucuzza gourd include cucuzzi, calabash, Italian squash, the serpent of Sicily, bottle gourd, longissima, Italian edible gourd, suzza melon, Tasmania bean, and zucca.

When to plant cucuzza gourd

Ensure the soil is warm before planting the seeds – about 65°F (18.3°C) or higher, generally, at least two weeks after your last spring frost date.

Starting cucuzza seeds can be tricky – even experienced gardeners sometimes struggle.

• Plant the seeds ½” (1.27cm) deep and at least 8″ (20cm) apart, then water them daily until they sprout. 
• Cucuzza requires a long growing season (90+ days). If you have a short growing season or would rather start seeds indoors, plant seeds in 4″ (10cm) pots four weeks before your outside planting date.
• Read this post for more information about starting seeds indoors. 

In the low desert of Arizona, there are two planting widows for cucuzza gourd. Plant it in March or when the monsoon moisture comes in July and August. 

What conditions does cucuzza gourd grow best in?

Cucuzza gourd will thrive in areas with full-sun exposure (at least 6-8 hours) and well-drained soil rich in organic matter. One plant will quickly fill a trellis.

If using square-foot gardening, allow at least two squares for each plant. Plant them on the edge of a bed next to a trellis. 

Amend your soil with compost or a balanced fertilizer according to package instructions before planting.

How to care for cucuzza gourd as it grows

Cucuzza squash needs regular maintenance throughout its growing season if you want a successful harvest.  

• Once planted, give each plant some support, such as a cattle panel or large trellis, so its vines have something to climb on as they grow.
• Mulch around the base of the plant to prevent weeds and preserve moisture. 
• Prune the vine as needed for airflow and cut off any yellowed leaves.
• Water deeply whenever necessary (at least once weekly). During hot weather periods, water more frequently (at least twice per week). 
• Cucuzza vines produce male and female flowers. If you find female fruits are withering and not being pollinated, consider hand-pollination. To do this: remove a male flower, peel back the petals, and transfer the pollen from the male to the female flower.

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas.

In this blog post, find more ways to add vertical space to your garden.

When is the best time to harvest cucuzza gourd? 

To use as an edible gourd, harvest when young or anytime before it develops a hard shell. The seeds are edible and increase in size as the gourd grows. Once the gourd reaches 3 feet (1m) in length, it will begin to harden and mature. 

I like to harvest mine at about 18 inches (45cm). This length allows plenty of usable flesh, and the taste and texture are still good. The gourd should be firm and glossy, without any soft spots.

Harvest the gourd by cutting the stem 3-4 inches (7-10 cm) from the fruit. 

For use as an ornamental gourd, leave on the plant until the skin matures and hardens. The cucuzza skin may form small bumps. The seeds will rattle inside when the gourd is completely mature. 

Unfortunately, cucuzza seeds are not always readily available online. Consider leaving one plant to mature on the vine. Then, save seeds from the indelible gourd to plant again and share with others. 

How do you prepare and use cucuzza gourd? 

The flesh of cucuzza squash has a mild, slightly-sweet flavor. Cucuzza squash is firmer than most types of squash and holds its shape well. 

Here is how to use it: 

• Wash the outside.
• Remove the ends and cut into manageable size pieces. 
• Peel and de-seed the squash if needed. 
• The top half is more tender. The bottom half is usually more mature and firm. 

Use similar to zucchini in recipes. For example, cucuzza squash is delicious stir-fried or sauteed in butter. Other uses include quiche, stew, or any number of dishes.

Cut them into strips (like french fries) and then toss them with olive oil. Coat with a mixture of breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese, and roast in the oven.  

My favorite way to prepare cucuzza is to peel, dice, and saute with onions and tomatoes from the garden and toss over pasta. Serve with lots of fresh garden basil. Other flavors that complement cucuzza squash are oregano, parsley, garlic, and chili powder. 

If this article about how to grow cucuzza gourd was helpful, please share it.

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Quick-growing annual vines are a beautiful way to cover a trellis, add vertical interest, and provide seasonal shade. The best part about these vines? For the price of a packet of seeds, you can have vines and flowers that make an impact. 

1. Love in a Puff (Cardiospermum halicacabum)

Love in a puff is a simple-to-care-for annual vine with tiny white blossoms and green pods that resemble paper lanterns, also called Balloon Vine or Heartseed Vine.

It’s easy to see how love in a puff gets its name; the puffy lantern encloses dark seeds with a perfect white heart on each one. This delicate vine quickly climbs a trellis as its tendrils reach out.

Blooms last a long time in this easy-growing plant. Each lantern contains seeds that will drop and reseed – deadhead if desired to prevent rampant reseeding. It can be invasive in some climates.

Read this post for more information about how to grow Love in a Puff.

Love in a Puff Seeds

2. Canary Creeper (Tropaeolum peregrinum)

This cousin of nasturtiums loves to climb. Canary creeper vine will quickly and beautifully cover your favorite trellis.

Native to South America, canary creeper flowers resemble the feather wings of a canary. Although it is generally grown as an annual, canary creeper can be a perennial in zones 9 and above. It can grow up to 12 feet in length each year.

The Canary Bird flowers, young leaves, and fruit are edible and, like its cousin the nasturtium, has the same peppery taste.

Read this post for more information about growing Canary Creeper Vine.

Canary Creeper Seeds

3. Purple Hyacinth Bean Vine (Lablab purpureus)

Originally from tropical India and China, these vigorous vines easily cover a fence or trellis, and the blooms are gorgeous in the fall.  Grown as a perennial in zones 10-11, the purple hyacinth bean vine loves the heat. In cooler zones, it is grown as an annual from seeds planted in the spring.

While generally low maintenance, purple hyacinth bean vine requires moist, well-draining soil in a sunny location. 

For more information about how to grow purple hyacinth bean vine, read this post.

Hyacinth Vine Seeds

4. Black-eyed Susan Vine (Thunbergia alata)

Black-eyed Susan vine can quickly cover a trellis with its wide, five-petaled blooms from mid-summer through frost. Use black-eyed Susan vine for bright pops of color on a fence, trellis, groundcover or even in a hanging basket. This vine grows well in containers. Provide support if you want the vines to climb.

Fast-growing tender perennial (zone 10-11) grown as a warm-season annual in zones 2-9. Black-eyed Susan vine thrives in bright sunny locations in all but the hottest climates. 

Read this post for more information about growing Black-Eyed Susan vine.

Black-Eyed Susan Vine Seeds

Looking for ways to add vertical space to your garden? This post shares 10 of my favorite ideas.

In this blog post, find more ways to add vertical space to your garden.

5. Passion Flower (Passiflora caerulea)

The prolific vines of passion flowers produce elaborate flowers. The vines and flowers of this warm region perennial vine attract pollinators and are a host plant for Gulf Fritillary Butterflies.

Soak seeds for 24 hours and direct sow or start indoors prior to planting in the spring or fall. It must be in the ground for the winter before it blooms. Plant seeds ¼” deep.

Grows best in full sun. Provide trellis and water regularly until established. Blooms from summer to fall. Overly rich soil results in fewer blooms. Pruning promotes flowers.

Read this post for more information about growing passion flower vine.

Passiflora Seeds

10 Beautiful Vines To Grow From Seed (continued)

6. Morning Glory Vine

Morning Glory vines are frost-tender, perennial climbing vines and beautiful flowers that quickly overtake a trellis. Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators are drawn to these striking flowers.

Morning glories begin to flower after the summer solstice when daylight gets shorter and continues through frost. Each flower only lasts a day; it opens in the morning and closes in the evening.

NOTE: Check local planting regulations before planting, as many varieties of morning glory are considered invasive in some areas (including Arizona).

Read this post for more information about growing morning glory vine.

Morning Glory Seeds

7. Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus)

Old-fashioned flowering vine with varieties reaching 7 feet (2 meters) or more. Bloom on stems in various colors is often grown for the fragrance. Excellent cut flower. Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.

Read this post for more information about how to grow sweet peas.

Sweet Pea Seeds

8. Malabar Spinach (Basella alba)

Malabar spinach is not a true spinach, but instead from the plant family Basellaceae, the Madeira-vine family of flowering plants. In warm areas, vines often reach 10 to 20 feet (3-6 meters) or longer.

Although they can be left to sprawl on the ground, the vines are best grown on a sturdy trellis. The vine is highly ornamental and is a beautiful and tasty addition to a garden arch, trellis or even a ladder.

Read this post for more information about how to grow Malabar spinach.

Malabar Spinach Seeds

9. Cardinal Climber Vine (Ipomoea sloteri)

Cardinal climber brings the butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular red flowers that bloom from spring through frost. The fern-like leaves resemble mini palm leaves as it twists and climbs nearly anything in their path. Learn how to grow Cardinal climber vine and add some to your garden today.

The Cardinal climber vine is a member of the morning glory family, which accounts for its vigorous climbing habits. Provide support for the twining stems and then stand back and watch it grow.

No fertilizer or deadheading is needed. The vine is useful for decorating fences, arbors, or mailboxes.

Read this post for more information about how to grow Cardinal Climber vine.

Cardinal Climber Seeds

10. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

The nasturtiums planted in the cement blocks of my garden border are a familiar and much loved part of my winter garden. There are also trailing varieties that grow well up a trellis.

Nasturtiums prefer cooler weather, so in warm climates grow plants in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun) to prolong their growing season. In cool climates, plant nasturtiums in full sun.If you want an abundance of flowers, do not fertilize nasturtiums.

Read this post for more information about how to grow nasturtiums.

Nasturtium Seeds

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on vines, herbs, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

If this post about 10 beautiful vines that grow from seed was helpful, please share it:

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Black-eyed Susan Vine (Thunbergia alata)

Fast-growing tender perennial (zone 10-11) grown as a warm-season annual in zones 2-9. Black-eyed Susan vine thrives in bright sunny locations in all but the hottest climates. It can be used as a ground cover or grown up a trellis. 

This is what Black-eyed Susan Vine seeds look like. Click here for seeds.

Black-eyed Susan Vine growing on a trellis.

This is what Black-eyed Susan Vine flowers look like.

How to grow Black-Eyed Susan Vine

Black-Eyed Susan Vine planting information:

Start seeds indoors (70-75°F / 21-24°C) six to eight weeks before the last spring frost. In mild winter areas, start seeds directly in the soil in early spring.

Choose an area to plant black-eyed Susan vine with fertile, well-drained soil. Grows best with regular water. I use an oya from Growoya in the container with the vine to give it regular access to moisture.

Size and spacing details for Black-Eyed Susan Vine:

Plant seeds or transplants 12-18 inches apart (30-45 cm).

Grows 6-10 feet (1.8-3m) tall and 1-2 feet (60-90cm) wide.

Black-Eyed Susan Vine growing tips:

Use black-eyed Susan vine for bright pops of color on a fence, trellis, groundcover or even in a hanging basket. This vine grows well in containers. Provide support if you want the vines to climb.

Good to know: Frost kills the top of the plant but not the roots. Avoid reflected heat in hot summer areas. Pests and problems may include red spider mites and aphids.

Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?

This is just one of 10 vines that grow well from seed. Learn more about my other favorites in this blog post.

This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one. 

If this post about how to grow Black-Eyed Susan Vine was helpful, please share it:

The post How to Grow Black-Eyed Susan Vine appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Cardinal Climber (Ipomoea x multifida)

The Cardinal climber vine is a morning glory family member, accounting for its vigorous climbing habits. Support the twining stems, then stand back and watch it grow.

This is what Cardinal climber vine seeds look like.

Cardinal climber vine growing on a trellis.

This is what Cardinal climber vine flowers look like.

How to grow Cardinal climber

Cardinal climber vine planting information:

Choose a location with full sun to partial sun. Cardinal climber vine tolerates poor or average soil. Overly rich soil results in lush foliage but fewer blooms. Often grown as a cool-season annual vine in zones 2-11.

Nick the seedcoat and direct sow after danger of frost have passed. Keep seeds moist until they germinate.

Blooms: Spring through frost in most areas

Size and spacing details for Cardinal climber vine:

Plant 1-2 seeds every 6-12 inches (15-30 cm).

Grows 8-10 feet (2.5-3m) tall and 1-2 feet (60-90cm) wide.

Cardinal climber vine growing tips:

No fertilizer or deadheading is needed. Flowers develop into seeds (poisonous), but seeds from seedlings are often inferior, don’t replant. The vine is useful for decorating fences, arbors, or mailboxes.

Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?

This is just one of 10 vines that grow well from seed. Learn more about my other favorites in this blog post.

This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one. 

If this post about how to grow Cardinal climber vine was helpful, please share it:

The post How to Grow Cardinal Climber Vine appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Canary Creeper (Tropaeolum peregrinum)

Native to South America, canary creeper flowers resemble the feather wings of a canary. Although it is generally grown as an annual, canary creeper can be a perennial in zones 9 and above. It can grow up to 12 feet in length each year, and its flowers and leaves are edible.

This is what Canary Creeper seeds look like.

Canary Creeper Vine growing on a trellis.

This is what Canary Creeper Vine flowers look like.

How to grow Canary Creeper Vine

Canary creeper vine planting information:

When to plant: Plant when soil temperatures are 70°F

Blooms: Summer – Fall in mild summer climates

Size and spacing details for canary creeper vine:

Plant 1-2 seeds every 36-48 inches (91-121 cm). Keep seeds moist until they germinate.

Grows 8-10 feet (2.5-3m) tall and 1-2 feet (60-90cm) wide. Canary Creeper Vine easily climbs, twines and spreads well; it quickly covered my 8 foot trellis. 

Canary creeper vine growing tips:

No fertilizer or deadheading needed. Just like with regular nasturtiums flowers develop into seeds. Collect the seeds if you don’t want to reseed.

The Canary Bird flowers, young leaves, and fruit are edible and, like its cousin the nasturtium, has the same peppery taste.

How to grow canary creeper vine in Arizona:

I started canary creeper from seeds directly in the garden in December, and the fern-like vines quickly climbed up my favorite arch trellis. When temperatures began to climb in early summer, the vine began to die back.

Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?

This is just one of 10 vines that grow well from seed. Learn more about my other favorites in this blog post.

This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one. 

If this post about how to grow canary creeper vine was helpful, please share it:

The post How to Grow Canary Creeper Vine appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Learn how to grow love in a puff, a simple-to-care-for annual vine with tiny white blossoms and green pods that resemble paper lanterns. Love in the puff is also called Balloon Vine or Heartseed Vine.

It’s easy to see how love in a puff gets its name; the puffy lantern encloses dark seeds with a perfect white heart on each one. This delicate vine quickly climbs a trellis as its tendrils reach out.

This is what love in a puff seeds look like.

Love in a puff growing on a trellis.

This is what love in a puff flowers look like.

How to Grow Love in a Puff Vine

Love in a puff is very sensitive to cold. Direct sow after the weather has warmed or start seed indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost; transplant out after all danger of frost has passed. Don’t cover seeds; press them into the soil. Seeds need light to germinate. 

Size and spacing: Space plants about a foot (30 cm) apart. Love in a puff grows up to 10 feet (3.5 meters) tall.

Growing tips: Plant in full sun for the most blooms. Does best with regular water and well-drained soil. Blooms last a long time in this easy-growing plant. Each lantern contains seeds that will drop and reseed – deadhead if desired to prevent rampant reseeding. It can be invasive in some climates.

How to grow in Love in a Puff in Arizona: Start indoors in late summer and plant outside in the fall, and it will bloom through the cooler months. 

To save seeds from love in a puff: Leave lanterns on the plant until they darken. The seeds inside should be dark. If the seeds are green, they were harvested too early and will not be viable.

Cut flower tips: Harvest stems in the morning and let them rest in water for a few hours before arranging them. Select firm stems with green lanterns. Stems last up to a week with preservative.

Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?

This is just one of 10 vines that grow well from seed. Learn more about my other favorites in this blog post.

This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one. 

If this post about how to grow love in a puff was helpful, please share it:

The post How to Grow Love in a Puff Vine appeared first on Growing In The Garden.