Article Outline:

• What is Hardening Off?
• Using Grow Lights for Indoor Seed Starting
• How to Harden Off Seedlings
• How Long Does the Hardening Off Process Take?
• What Should I Do If the Weather Is Unpredictable?
• Signs That You Need to Harden Off Seedlings More Slowly
• When to Leave the Seedlings Outside All Night
• Protecting Seedlings from Pests
• Do I Need to Harden Off Nursery-Grown Purchased Transplants?
• Hardening Off Seedlings in Hot Summer Climates (Monsoon Planting)
• Final Thoughts
• References & Additional Resources

What is Hardening Off?

Hardening off is the process of gradually exposing seedlings to outdoor conditions. As the seedlings experience more sun, wind, and fluctuating temperatures, their cell walls harden and the plant’s cuticle thickens. This thicker cuticle helps protect the plant from moisture loss and damaging UV rays. Once hardened off, seedlings are much more likely to thrive outside.

Did you know?
The cuticle is the plant’s outermost layer, similar to human skin. It primarily acts as a water permeability barrier, helping reduce evaporation and protect the plant from external stressors.

Using Grow Lights for Indoor Seed Starting

Starting seeds under grow lights is a good idea when outdoor conditions are not yet suitable for tender seedlings. Grow lights allow you to control the intensity and duration of light, ensuring seedlings develop strong stems instead of becoming leggy. Get more tips for starting seeds indoors in this guide.

• Height of the Lights: Keep lights 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) above the seedlings. This encourages sturdy growth rather than spindly stems. (This may vary depending on the type of lights you use.)
• Light Duration: Most seedlings need about 12–16 hours of light per day. Using a simple timer can help maintain a consistent schedule.
• Transition to Natural Light: About a week before you begin the hardening off plant process, try gradually shortening the time under grow lights. This subtle shift mimics the reduced light time they’ll get outdoors.

See the tools and supplies I use every day in the garden on my favorite garden supplies page.

How to Harden Off Seedlings

Start 7–10 Days Before Planting

Watering and Fertilizing:

• Before the hardening-off process, gradually reduce how often you water the plants. You don’t want them to dry out, but allowing the top of the soil to dry slightly helps strengthen the roots. Avoid letting them wilt.
• It’s also not recommended to fertilize seedlings before or during hardening off—this prevents tender growth that’s more susceptible to outdoor stressors.

Weaning Off Heat Mats:

If you’ve been using heat mats, begin turning them off or lowering the temperature a few days before you start taking the seedlings outdoors. By the time you’re in the middle of the hardening-off period, the plants should be completely off bottom heat.

Day 1: Place your seedlings outside in a shaded, protected location for 1–2 hours. Seedlings and transplants should avoid direct sun and wind initially. Then, bring them back inside.

Day 2–3: Gradually increase the time outside to 2–3 hours. Keep them in filtered sunlight or morning sun, avoiding intense afternoon rays.

Day 4–6: Extend outdoor time further. Introduce them to a bit more direct sunlight, but watch for signs of stress, such as wilting or leaf burn.

Day 7–10: By the end of 7–10 days, your seedlings should be ready for full sun exposure throughout the day. If they look healthy and strong, they can be transplanted into your garden.

Tip:
Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the hardening off process. Seedlings dry out faster outdoors due to wind and sun, so consistent watering is crucial.

How Long Does the Hardening Off Process Take?

Typically, the process takes between 7–10 days, though it can vary by plant type and environmental conditions. Cold hardy plants (like kale or broccoli) may adapt more quickly than very tender seedlings (like tomatoes or peppers). If you have a cold frame available, you can expedite the transition by placing seedlings in it for a few hours each day before fully exposing them to the elements.

What Should I Do If the Weather Is Unpredictable?

Unpredictable weather is common, especially in spring. Here are some tips:

• Check the Forecast
  • If nighttime temperatures are expected to dip below 45°F (7°C) or if it is very windy, bring the seedlings back inside or cover them.
• Use a Cold Frame or Protective Cover
  • A cold frame or row cover can help buffer temperature swings.
• Hold Off on Transplanting
  • If there’s a risk of late frost or a drastic temperature drop, wait until after the final frost date to set seedlings outdoors. It’s better to delay planting than to risk losing all your hard work to a cold snap.

Signs That You Need to Harden Off Seedlings More Slowly

• Wilting
  • A plant that wilts (not from lack of water) could be under heat or wind stress. Reduce exposure time to intense sunlight or strong winds.
• Burnt or Bleached Leaves
  • Leaf burn or bleaching is a common sign of too much direct sunlight too soon. Return the seedlings to a shadier spot for a day or two, then reintroduce sunlight gradually.

When to Leave the Seedlings Outside All Night

• Warm-Season Crops (e.g., Tomatoes, Peppers)
  • You can leave them out once nighttime temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C). If a sudden cold front hits, bring them back indoors.
• Cool-Season Crops (e.g., Lettuce, Broccoli)
  • If nighttime temperatures stay above 45°F (7°C) and the seedlings have been outdoors all day without stress, they’re typically safe to remain outside overnight.

Protecting Seedlings from Pests

Young seedlings can be vulnerable to birds, slugs, and other pests.

• Physical Barriers
  • Cover seedlings with tulle or netting to keep birds away.
  • Use DIY cloches made from plastic bottles to protect individual seedlings from insects.
• Natural Predators
  • Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs to help control pests. Eliminating pesticides can help keep these beneficials around. Learn more about how to attract beneficial insects in this guide.
• Healthy Transplants
  • Strong, well-hardened seedlings are more resistant to pests. Ensuring they’re healthy before planting reduces the likelihood of major pest damage later.

Do I Need to Harden Off Nursery-Grown Purchased Transplants?

Often, nursery plants are partially hardened off. However, giving them an abbreviated hardening-off period is still a good idea.

• Day 1: Place them in a part-shade area.
• Day 2: Move them to full sun.
• Day 3: Leave them outside overnight (if temperatures are suitable) and plant them the next day.

Hardening Off Seedlings in Hot Summer Climates (Monsoon Planting)

When summer temperatures soar and it’s time for monsoon planting, hardening off seedlings can be especially challenging. Learn more about monsoon planting in this guide. Here are a few tips to help your young plants transition successfully:

1. Provide Extra Shade
   • During this period, protect seedlings from the harsh afternoon sun with shade cloth, a temporary canopy, or by placing them under taller plants or structures. This prevents leaf scorch and reduces water loss. Get more tips for providing shade in this guide.
2. Use Larger Transplants
   • Larger seedlings have more established root systems. A bigger root ball holds moisture longer and reduces the risk of roots drying out quickly in hot, windy conditions.
3. Water Generously but Strategically
   • Increase watering frequency so transplants stay consistently moist (but not waterlogged). Monitor them closely—hot weather can dry the soil faster.
   • Water at the base of the plant early in the morning and again in the evening if needed.
4. Avoid Heatwaves
   • When hardening off plant transplants, try to wait for a break in extreme heat. A severe heatwave can lead to wilting, leaf scorch, or even plant death. Get more tips for heatwave gardening in this guide.
5. Transplant in the Evening
   • Planting in cooler evening temperatures allows seedlings to settle in overnight. This helps them recover from transplant shock before facing the next day’s sun.
6. Monitor and Adjust
   • Keep a close eye on leaves for signs of stress—wilting, scorching, or curling may indicate too much sun or insufficient water.
   • Gradually move the seedlings into areas with more sun as they acclimate, but continue providing afternoon shade until you’re sure they can handle full exposure.

By following these guidelines, you’ll ensure your transplants are well-prepared for hot summer climates and variable monsoon conditions. If you’re ready to transition from seed starting to a fruitful harvest, check out our comprehensive guide on how to grow peppers for even more tips.

Final Thoughts

Learning how to harden off seedlings correctly will give your garden a strong start. Healthy transplants become robust plants that are less susceptible to pests and diseases—and will reward you with bountiful harvests for months to come.

Once your seedlings are hardened off and ready to plant, check out “How to Plant Transplants” for additional tips on planting in your garden.

Feel free to ask if you have any questions about hardening off plant seedlings, timing, or best practices.

Please share this post if you found it helpful!

References & Additional Resources

University of Illinois Extension. (2020, April 6). Starting a Garden: Hardening Indoor Seedlings (Good Growing Blog). https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2020-04-06-starting-garden-hardening-indoor-seedlings

University of Maryland Extension. (n.d.). Hardening Off Vegetable Seedlings in the Home Garden. https://extension.umd.edu/resource/hardening-vegetable-seedlings-home-garden

The post How to Harden Off Seedlings: Complete Guide & Tips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Some plants, like peppers and tomatoes, handle being moved and separated quite well, while others, such as dill and cilantro, dislike having their roots disturbed and may fail to thrive or bolt if not handled delicately. This guide will help you navigate whether to use seeds or transplants.

Seedlings with Sensitive Roots: Treat them Carefully!

Certain plants develop tap roots or sensitive roots that can be easily damaged when transplanted. These seedlings prefer to be directly sown into the garden whenever possible. When their roots remain undisturbed, these plants grow faster and are stronger. Deciding between seeds or transplants is vital for these plants.

Herbs and Vegetables with Sensitive Roots (click on the link for growing guides):

1. Carrots
2. Radishes
3. Parsnips 
4. Turnips
5. Dill 
6. Cilantro 
7. Parsley
8. Summer Squash
9. Cucumbers 
10. Melons
11. Winter Squash
12. Corn
13. Peas
14. Beans 

These plants generally do best when directly sown (planted from seeds), not transplanted, because they develop long taproots or have sensitive or delicate feeder roots.

If transplanting is necessary, start these seedlings in soil blocks that can be planted directly into the garden without disturbing the roots. Handle the root ball as little as possible. Gently transplant the entire root ball without shaking off the soil.

Be an informed consumer. If you see a six-pack of carrot transplants at the local garden center, don’t buy them! Instead, buy a package of carrot seeds. The carrots will grow better, and they’ll be less expensive, too! Evaluate whether to use seeds or transplants for each crop you grow.

Seedlings That Tolerate Transplanting

On the other hand, certain seedlings handle root disturbance more easily. Their roots are not as sensitive. These plants can often be divided or separated if multiple seeds are planted in the same cell. They tend to bounce back quickly after transplanting, making them excellent candidates for starting indoors.

Choosing between seeds or transplants is less critical for these plants. Harden off seedlings before transplanting outside. Learn more about how to harden off seedlings in this guide.

Herbs and Vegetables Tolerant of Transplanting:

1. Peppers
2. Tomatoes
3. Eggplants 
4. Cabbage
5. Broccoli 
6. Cauliflower
7. Kale 
8. Brussels Sprouts
9. Onions
10. Chard
11. Artichokes

These plants have a more fibrous root system or are generally more robust, so using a transplant instead of seeds can give you a head start. You can safely plant them in cells or flats and then pot them up or move them into the garden when it’s time to plant outside. Whether you use seeds or transplants, they tend to handle both methods well.

Understanding the root sensitivity of different seedlings can make a big difference in the success of your garden. Knowing which plants are more delicate and which are more forgiving helps you decide whether to start from seed or transplant. Your plant’s roots will thank you!

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The post Seeds or Transplants? Which Crops Have Sensitive Roots appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

1. Choose the Right Location
2. Gather Your Supplies
3. Set Up Your Indoor Seed Starting Space
4. Prepare the Soil
5. Plant Your Seeds
6. Care for Growing Seedlings
7. Water Wisely
8. Thin and Fertilize Indoor Grown Seedlings
9. Transplant to Larger Containers
10. Harden Off Before Planting Outdoors

How to Start Seeds Indoors: 10 Steps for Success

1. Choose the Right Location

The ideal temperature for starting seeds is between 70-80°F. If outside or in your garage isn’t the right temperature, you can get creative and find a spot in your home that is. I use a wire shelving unit that I move into my office or laundry room when it’s time to start seeds indoors. It holds my seed-starting supplies in the garage for the rest of the year.

Use this seed germination temperature guide to double-check the correct temperature for the seeds you’re starting.

Starting a garden can feel overwhelming. Read this guide to help you avoid new gardeners’ most common mistakes.

Gardening comes with its own language, and it can get confusing. That’s why I created the Practical Gardening Glossary—a handy A–Z guide that explains terms like “hardening off,” “vermiculite,” and “germination” in plain English. It’s a great tool whether you’re just getting started or brushing up on your garden vocabulary.

2. Gather Your Supplies

It might seem like a lot, but you don’t need everything. Even a single seedling tray with a grow light on your counter is a great start.

Essential Supplies for Starting Seeds Indoors:

• Seeds: For trusted varieties that grow well season after season, visit my favorite seeds.
• Seedling Pots and Tray: Use what you have on hand. I love these trays from Burpee and these from Bootstrap Farmer. 
• Seed Starting Mix: Use a sterile, bagged mix — avoid regular potting soil. I like this one.
• Light Source: LED or T5 fluorescent lights work well. Choose one that fits your space and budget. The light from a window is insufficient to grow vigorous, healthy seedlings indoors.

Nice-To-Have Indoor Seed Starting Supplies:

• Humidity Domes: Good-quality domes will last for many seasons. You can also cover seedlings with plastic wrap or burlap to retain moisture.
• Vermiculite: It allows light to penetrate the surface of sown seeds while keeping the soil hydrated. It also helps prevent algae from forming and can help prevent fungus gnats.
• Heat Mat: Keeps the soil at the optimal temperature of 70-80°F for germination.
• Labels: These should be small enough to fit inside the humidity dome. Get creative and use what you have on hand. Wood labels may bleed. 
• Fan: This is the one I use. It ensures air circulation, which helps seedlings grow strong and prevents disease.
• Power Strip and Timer: Use one with a timer for your lights and another for the heat mats and fans.
• Watering Can: A long spout makes indoor watering easier.
• Wire Shelving: Ensure the dimensions fit your trays and lights.

Good tools and reliable products save time and reduce frustration in the garden. Visit my favorite garden supplies page to see the ones I recommend for every stage of gardening.

3. Set Up Your Indoor Seed Starting Space

Before planting, make sure your indoor growing area is ready to go. Set up your lights, plug in the heat mat, and ensure everything fits and works properly. Clean and sanitize your seed pots and trays. Organize your seeds, plan how many to plant, and make your labels before getting your hands dirty.

4. Prepare the Soil

Moisten your seed-starting mix until it’s damp but not soaking wet. Fill your containers, making sure there are no large air pockets. This step ensures that the seeds will have the right environment for germination.

5. Plant Your Seeds

Follow the directions on the seed packets for planting depth and spacing. Plant 2-3 seeds per pot to increase the chances of successful germination. Press the seeds gently into the soil to ensure good contact. Sprinkle with vermiculite (if using). Add labels as you go, cover the trays, and place them under lights on the heat mats. Use a timer to keep the lights on for 12-16 hours a day.

Aim to plant seeds with similar germination times in each tray. This will make it easier to remove the humidity dome or seed cover when it’s time.

6. Care for Growing Seedlings

Remove the cover or humidity dome once a few more than half of the seedlings have sprouted.

Keep the lights on for 12-16 hours a day. Keep the light within an inch or two of the seedlings to prevent them from becoming leggy. Some LED lights may be kept further away; follow the instructions that came with your lights. If the seedlings looked scorched, move them further away. If the seedlings are leggy or elongated, put the lights closer.

Use a fan to provide airflow, which helps strengthen the plants and prevent disease.

7. Water Wisely

Keep an eye on your seedlings’ moisture levels. Water from below using a watering can, ensuring not to let the seedlings dry out or become waterlogged. This also helps prevent fungus gnats.

If water remains in the tray a few hours after watering, remove it with a syringe or carefully dump it. (I like to pour it into my houseplant pots.)

8. Thin and Fertilize Indoor Grown Seedlings

When seedlings develop true leaves, thin them to leave the strongest plant in each pot. The earlier. you thin to one plant per cell, the quicker they will grow. You can gently tease up the extra seedlings with a pencil and replant them in other pots if desired.

Once true leaves appear, it is also time to start fertilizing. Begin by adding a half-dose of seaweed fertilizer to your water. One week later, feed with 1/2 dose of fish fertilizer every other time you water. 

9. Transplant to Larger Containers

Knowing exactly when to start seeds indoors can be tricky sometimes. If your timing is off and your seedlings outgrow their containers or roots start coming through the drainage holes, you need to pot them up into larger containers. This step may not always be necessary, depending on the size of your seedlings and their original containers. Learn more about potting up in this blog post.

10. Harden Off Indoor Grown Seedlings Before Planting Outdoors

Once the seedlings have several sets of true leaves and the outdoor soil is at the correct temperature, you can plant them outdoors. Hardening your seedlings off before moving them outside is crucial to avoid transplant shock. About a week before transplanting, start by turning off the heat mats during the day and keep them on only at night. Gradually expose your seedlings to outdoor conditions by placing them in a shady, protected spot for an hour or two each day, increasing the time and sun exposure daily. Learn more about the process of hardening off in this blog post.

For spring planting, transplant in the morning so plants can adjust before nightfall. For fall or monsoon planting, transplant in the early evening so plants can adapt to cooler night temperatures.

With these steps, you’ll be well on your way to successfully starting seeds indoors and growing healthy, vigorous plants ready for the garden.

If this post about how to start seeds indoors was helpful, please share it.

The post Beginner’s Guide: How to Start Seeds Indoors appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.

Article Outline:

• Decide which method you would like to use
• Before You Begin
• Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips
• Faster “indoor soil method” of making sweet potato slips
• “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips
• Next Steps for All Methods

How to grow sweet potato slips: Decide which method you would like to use

There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing three successful methods I’ve used.

1. The Traditional Water Method

The traditional method of making sweet potato slips is suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips. Gardening with kids? This is a fun project to do with them. Get more tips for gardening with kids in this article.

Choose this method if you have plenty of time before you plant and don’t have indoor lighting. A bright window works well for this method.

• Pros: Simple
• Cons: Takes longer; requires frequent changing of water.

Jump to instructions for the traditional water method

2. The Indoor Soil Method

In my experience, the indoor soil method of making sweet potato slips is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks. 

Choose this method if you would like slips faster and you have bright indoor lighting available.

• Pros: Quickest method
• Cons: Requires indoor lighting & heat mat for best results. Must keep the soil moist. Chance for potato rotting.

Jump to the instructions for the indoor soil method

3. The Outdoor Soil Method

The outdoor soil method of making sweet potato slips works best in warm climates. This method takes 4-6 weeks once the soil is warm enough.

Choose this method if you have a long growing season and don’t want to bother with starting slips indoors.

• Pros: Easiest method; does not require any upkeep if your garden is already being watered.
• Cons: Soil must be warm before you begin. Areas with short-growing seasons may not have enough time to produce slips.

Jump to the instructions for the outdoor soil method

Before you begin:

The first step for all three methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor. 

Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.

1. Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips

Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.

Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:

• Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
• One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
• The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.

You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato. 

Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably. 

Keep the water level up in the jar and keep the water fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first, and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato. 

Once several 5-6 inch sprouts have formed, see the rest of the directions below.

2. Faster “indoor soil method” of making sweet potato slips

• Poke holes in the bottom of a foil pan. 
• Fill foil pan with potting soil or seed starting mix.
• Moisten soil. 
• Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
• Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
• Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.

Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably. 

If the sweet potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.

In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slip.

You may be able to remove the slip with roots attached. If so, you can go ahead and plant. If there are no roots, go ahead to the next step.

3. “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips

• Check soil temperature. Once the soil is at least 65°F (18°C), you can begin.
• Moisten soil. This is the soil thermometer I use.
• Bury the bottom (rooting half) of sweet potatoes in the soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
• Use a milk jug or cloche to warm the soil and encourage rooting and sprouting.
• Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.

If at any time the potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.

Within a week or two, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week, small sprouts should begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slips from the sweet potato and begin the next step.

Next Steps (all methods):

• When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
• Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days. 
• Placing the jar on a seed germination mat for warmth and under a grow light will speed up the process of developing roots. 
• Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips. 
• Once roots are fully formed and several inches long, it’s time to plant. 
• Plant the rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep. 
• Water newly planted slips well.

One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.

Once you’ve grown sweet potato slips, learn how to grow sweet potatoes in this blog post. 

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

If this post about how to make sweet potato slips was helpful, please share it.

The post A Fast and Easy Way to Make Sweet Potato Slips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

1. Why Chit Potatoes?
2. How to Chit (Greensprout) Potatoes
3. Can you cut sprouted potatoes before planting?
4. When to plant chitted potatoes
5. What about sweet potatoes?

Why Chit Potatoes?

Potatoes are typically grown from seed potatoes rather than actual seeds. Seed potatoes are small potatoes specifically grown to be planted as a crop. Green sprouting, also known as chitting, is an optional seed potato conditioning procedure. Chitting the potatoes before planting allows you to encourage them to produce more shoots, resulting in a more abundant harvest.

Although the benefits of chitting potatoes have been heavily debated, studies have demonstrated that chitting can reduce the days to harvest time and may increase yield. This is important for areas with shorter growing seasons, like the low desert of Arizona.

How to Chit (Greensprout) Potatoes

Timing:

• Begin chitting about four weeks before the expected planting date.

Initial Warming:

• Store uncut seed potatoes at 70°F (21°C) in the dark for about a week.

Exposure to Light:

• Once sprouts appear, expose the tubers to bright, indirect light.
• Lower the temperature to 50°F (10°C) if possible.
• Light will turn the sprouts green and keep them short and stocky.

Note: Sprouts that form in the dark will be long and spindly. These fragile sprouts break easily and may not grow as well.

Can you cut sprouted potatoes before planting?

Ideal Size:

Seed pieces should weigh about 1½ ounces (42 grams). Ensure each piece has at least two eyes/sprouts.

Cutting Guidelines:

A seed potato 3 ounces (85 grams) or larger should be cut in half. Smaller seed potatoes can be planted whole. Medium and large seed potatoes should be cut into blocky pieces, usually 2-4 pieces per tuber. After cutting the potatoes, let the skin dry and form a protective layer.

When to plant chitted potatoes

After the sprouts are approximately 1 inch (3-4 cm) long, it is time to plant your potatoes. To speed up emergence, plant seed eyes facing up at a depth of 1 to 4 inches (2.5 -10 cm). Plant shallower in cooler northern climates and deeper in warmer southern climates. Generally, plants will break through the soil in approximately 3 weeks.

What about sweet potatoes? The differences between growing sweet potatoes and regular potatoes

Sweet and regular potatoes might appear similar, but their growth habits and planting requirements differ. While potatoes grow from the sprouts on the potato, sweet potatoes are grown from slips that are removed and then planted. Slips are small plants that grow off of a mature sweet potato. Learn how to make sweet potato slips in this blog post.

Chitting potatoes is a simple yet essential step in potato planting. It allows you to encourage your seed potatoes to produce more shoots, ultimately resulting in a more abundant crop.

More potato growing resources:

• Learn how to grow potatoes in straw in this blog post.
• Growing potatoes in containers? Get growing tips in this blog post.

Research sources:

• The duration of chitting significantly decreased the days to emergence and tuberization, suggesting an earlier harvest time (Springer).
• Chitting could give higher yields earlier in the season before late blight ended crop growth (Springer).
• Chitting seed potatoes at Craibstone increased yields (Cambridge Core).
• Cchitting/pre-sprouting, especially using more blight-resistant main crop potato varieties, can further reduce foliar blight severity and increase yields (ScienceDirect).
• Efforts to increase tuber yield should focus on reducing the time to emergence, suggesting that chitting could play a role (Luke.fi).

In summary, while the results may vary based on various factors, chitting can reduce harvest time and increase yield in certain circumstances. However, more research might be needed to fully understand the impacts and how they may vary under different conditions.

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The post How to Chit Potatoes: A Guide to Greensprouting Seed Potatoes appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Would a greenhouse get too hot in Arizona?

How many months of the year could I use the greenhouse?

This article discusses the benefits of having a greenhouse (even in a hot summer climate), the challenges to consider, and the best ways to make the greenhouse a productive space during the year’s hottest months. 

Benefits of having a greenhouse

• Extends the growing season, whether in cold or warmer weather.
• The ability to control the environment, including sunlight, temperature, humidity, and ventilation.
• Protection from the elements.
• Little or no damage from insects, birds, and other animals.
• Increased water efficiency.
• Central location for seed starting and gardening supplies.
• Place to implement hydroponics or other methods.

Challenges with having a greenhouse in Arizona and other hot summer climates 

Historically, greenhouses have been used to trap heat. However, during the summer heat, greenhouse temperatures can surpass 150°F (65.6°C), which is too hot for plants. High winds during the monsoon and windy seasons also present a challenge. 

Choosing the best location for your greenhouse

Typically, a greenhouse is placed in an area with the most sunlight. However, in a hot summer climate, taking advantage of locations that offer natural shade is crucial.

Here are a few considerations about where to position your greenhouse:

• Look for locations in your yard that receive shade during the summer naturally. Consider how the sun exposure or shadows will change throughout the year.
• Level ground for the greenhouse foundation. Consider installing a cement pad.
• Protection from the elements. Placement near a house or fence can help. It is also essential to secure or bolt the greenhouse to the foundation. 
• Proper drainage. Ideally, the land surrounding the greenhouse is sloped so that water will drain away from your foundation. 
• Access to electricity and water. Plumb or put these in place before you add a foundation or cement pad. 
• Convenience. Someplace you can access easily.

What to consider before purchasing a greenhouse

Greenhouses come in various shapes, sizes, and use of materials. Available types include traditional, hoop houses, lean-to’s, cold frames, polytunnels, and attached solariums.

Considerations for greenhouses in hot summer climates: 

• Available space. Most people with greenhouses wish they had made them larger. Choose the largest size your space and budget will allow. 
• Design. Do you like the look of it? 
• Cost. What’s your budget?
• Durability. Arizona has severe winds during the monsoon season.
• Material type. A galvanized steel or aluminum frame (for durability) with thick polycarbonate panels (for good light diffusion and insulation) could be an effective solution for a hot summer climate. 
• Height. Adding vertical space can increase the available space for storage and ventilation.  
• Ventilation. Roof vents with (automatic) openers. 
• Misting systems and accessory availability.
• Quality of construction. Insulation of greenhouse with rubber seals, types of windows, etc.

How to keep a greenhouse cool in hot summer climates

Each method will only partially bring down the heat, but combining techniques will bring the temperature down and make the greenhouse usable throughout the year.

• Ceiling fan and circulating fans for air movement.
• Louver (manual and automatic) windows that can be opened or closed depending on temperatures.
• Interior and exterior shade cloth. 
• Tint the windows, just like you would a car. While these other strategies reduce the temperatures by 5-10°F, this method can reduce it by more than 30°F.
• Use a swamp cooler.  

Greenhouse management tips for a hot summer climate

Once you have a greenhouse, a few essential practices will help ensure your greenhouse is a place where plants thrive. 

• Like a garden, plan on spending time in your greenhouse daily to monitor the temperature and plant health. Problems will be easier to manage if you catch them when they are small. 
• Measure the indoor temperature and humidity. Learn which methods for cooling (or heating) the space are most effective. The goal is to maintain the inside temperature between 65-85°F (18-29°C). Try to avoid wide temperature fluctuations. 
• Keep a greenhouse journal: record germination times and temperatures to help you learn from your experiences. 
• Keep it clean. Sweep up or vacuum messes and debris. 
• Don’t overload your greenhouse. Good airflow is crucial for plants.
• Don’t bring pest-damaged or diseased plants into the greenhouse; they may spread those issues to other plants. 
• During the hottest months, you may need to provide additional lighting for plants if the light is blocked by shade cloth.  
• Avoid standing water. Use layers of gym-style pads and rubber mats to drain the moisture out of the building. Water seedlings from the bottom and drain off extra water. 
• Keep the door closed. This helps maintain the temperature and humidity levels and keeps insects out. 

Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post. 

Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively. 

He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds. Here’s a link to Larry’s Jansen Greenhouse, featured in this article.

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How do ginger and turmeric grow?

Ginger and turmeric aren’t grown from seeds but from rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground stems that grow horizontally beneath the ground surface. They put out roots and shoots from their nodes, allowing them to spread and reproduce.

Reasons to pre-sprout ginger and turmeric

1. It speeds up the growing process and gives you a head start on the season.
2. It eliminates rhizomes that don’t sprout – so you don’t waste space on them in the garden.

Purchase organic turmeric and ginger for pre-sprouting

• Choose firm roots that look healthy. 
• Avoid any ginger or turmeric with bruises or soft spots. 
• Ideally, each piece has several nodes (the node is where the sprout forms).
• Organic ginger and turmeric are often available at farmer’s markets or grocery stores.

Prepare the rhizomes for sprouting

Cut or break apart large rhizomes into pieces (ensure each piece has several nodes). Let the cut ends heal and dry over (1-2 days).

Prevent mold by soaking in hydrogen peroxide: Use a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution diluted with water. (About 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 3 parts water.) Soak your ginger or turmeric pieces for about 10–15 minutes. This exposure helps to disinfect the surface and reduce the number of mold-causing spores. After soaking, thoroughly rinse the pieces with clean water to remove any residual peroxide before proceeding to sprout.

Two methods for pre-sprouting your ginger and turmeric

Method One for pre-sprouting ginger and turmeric:

• Place sterilized ginger in a plastic bag with several damp pieces of paper towel, and seal the bag. 
• Keep the bag someplace warm. 
• Monitor for mold, and rinse off ginger each week until sprouts appear. 

Method Two for pre-sprouting ginger and turmeric:

Fill a seed starting tray with moist, sterile potting mix. Nestle the sterilized ginger or turmeric in the potting mix so it is mostly covered. 

Place humidity dome on top. Provide heat and light with a heat mat and seed starting lights.

Monitor moisture level and moisten potting soil as needed. 

For ginger, sprouts (and roots!) should appear within 1-3 weeks. Turmeric usually takes longer to sprout and may take up to a month.

What to do AFTER you pre-sprout your ginger and turmeric

Dispose of any rotted ginger or turmeric. 

If it is warm enough to plant outside, plant the sprouted turmeric and ginger.

See these blog posts for planting and growing information. 

Still waiting for your last frost? Pot up the sprouted rhizomes in 6-inch pots. (These are the pots I use from Bootstrap Farmer.) 

Continue to provide heat and light, and begin feeding when shoots appear. (This is the fertilizer I use.)

Plant the turmeric and ginger seedlings outside when the soil has warmed and after your last frost.

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Follow these simple steps for cleaning and sanitizing your seed-starting supplies: 

1. Gather needed supplies

You may already have everything you need to sanitize your seed starting supplies. It’s easiest to work outside.

You’ll need an area (size depends on the number of seed-starting supplies) to spread out and spray off the supplies. 

A large tub (or two) for washing, rinsing, and submerging seed trays and containers.

• Mild detergent
• Brush or sponge (I like using these bottle brushes to clean the seed starting containers)
• Vinegar
• Spray bottle(s)
• Hydrogen peroxide (3% or 12%, depending on the method used)

If you are not sure which tools and products are worth it, I put together a list of my favorite garden supplies. These are tried-and-true items that help me keep my garden thriving.

2. Remove debris and wash seed trays and supplies

Seed trays, domes, and containers are dirty and need some elbow grease to get cleaned up and ready for the next season.

Fill the large tub with water and add a mild detergent. 

Submerge the containers and use the sponge or brush to scrub and dislodge all the dirt and debris. (Rinsing alone usually isn’t enough to remove the dirt and soil.)

Lay out trays and containers, and rinse off with a spray of water. 

Repeat with remaining seed trays and supplies. 

3. Spray trays off with a diluted vinegar solution

Once the trays are clean, spraying them with a vinegar solution can help remove water spots.

Mix equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle. 

Spray off all surfaces with the vinegar solution.

Allow the solution to stay on for ten minutes, then rinse.

4. Use hydrogen peroxide to finish sanitizing your seed starting supplies

There are two methods for completing this step; choose the one that best suits your situation.

To quickly sanitize seed starting supplies:

• Put hydrogen peroxide (3%) in a spray bottle.
• Spray all surfaces of the trays and containers with hydrogen peroxide.
• Let it sit for 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
• Air dry.

If damping off and fungal diseases have been an issue in the past, you may want to use this method, which provides the highest level of sanitation: 

• Fill the tub with 4 parts water and 1 part food grade (12%) hydrogen peroxide.
• Submerge and soak trays for 10 minutes.
• Remove and rinse.
• Air dry.

Note: 12% hydrogen peroxide can cause skin irritation. Wear chemical-resistant rubber gloves when using. 

Read this blog post for more information about starting seeds indoors.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this post shares when to start seeds indoors for transplanting outside.

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Ideally, seedlings are planted directly into the garden rather than moving into larger containers. However, moving seedlings to larger containers is helpful for crops that have outgrown the containers they were started in, but the timing isn’t right for planting outside.

Roots restricted in too-small containers become “root bound” and are less likely to flourish after being planted in the garden. 

A larger container allows seedlings to live happily longer in the ideal conditions of your seed-starting area. More room in the container provides additional space for the roots to absorb moisture and nutrients from fresh soil.  

When to pot up seedlings: 

• When you notice that their growth seems to have slowed or stopped. Gently remove the seedling from the container and check on the roots; they may circulate in the pot or take up all available space inside the container. 
• It’s time to move seedlings to a larger container when the roots extend outside the container.
• Seedlings that are becoming crowded or too close to one another. Each plant will grow better with additional room.

How to deal with root-bound plants:

• Loosen coiled roots. Using your hands, gently tease the roots apart. Trim back any extra-long roots.
• If the roots won’t loosen, spray the soil away with water first and then uncoil the roots.
• If the roots still won’t untangle. Make several vertical slits in the root ball with a knife to stimulate the growth of new roots before planting.

How to pot up seedlings:

1. Gather supplies

Container – Choose a container at least twice as large as the current pot. For potting up, I use these 5.5-inch nursery pots. Ensure containers are clean before using them.

Soil – Use slightly-moistened potting soil. I use the Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix to pot up my seedlings. If desired, you can use a mixture of raised bed mix or potting soil and seed starting mix. 

Labels – You may need more if moving from rows or six-packs into individual containers. When plants are in larger containers, give each plant its own label.

Having the right tools makes gardening easier and more enjoyable. On my favorite garden supplies page, you’ll find the products I trust for soil prep, watering, seed starting, and more. These are the same tools I use in my own garden.

2. Know whether or not to bury the stem when repotting

Some seedlings can be buried deeper to encourage a strong stem and root development. Other plants need to be transplanted at the same level as the original container to avoid rotting the stem. 

3. Pot seedlings into a new container

• Fill the bottom of the container with soil.
• Tip over the seedling and gently dump it into your hand. Hold the stem carefully between your fingers. A plant can grow new leaves or roots, but won’t recover from a damaged stem.
• Place the seedling on top of the layer of soil.
• Gently fill in and firm soil around the seedling. 

4. Water and feed newly-potted seedlings

• Water seedlings and fill in any gaps in the soil.
• Feed with a half-dose of seaweed fertilizer. 

5. Care for seedlings until it’s time to transplant them into the garden

• Continue providing light and air circulation.
• Water seedlings from the bottom as needed.
• Feed weekly with a half-dose seaweed fertilizer. (To feed seedlings, add 1/2 dose of fertilizer to the water once a week before watering the seedlings.)
• Harden off seedlings before transplanting outside. Learn more about how to harden off seedlings in this guide.

This post will be helpful if you’re looking for more information about how to start seeds indoors.

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8 Tips for How to Plant Seeds Outside

1. Select the best seeds to grow in your garden

When selecting seeds: 

• Choose high-quality seeds from reputable seed companies. A few of my favorite seed companies are Botanical Interests, Renee’s Garden Seeds, Seeds Now, Baker Creek Seeds, and Native Seeds Search.
• Look for seed varieties that are adapted to your location. 
• Choose disease-resistant varieties if you have had issues with a disease in the past.

To plant with confidence, explore my favorite seeds, a collection of varieties I trust in my own garden.

2.  Plant seeds at the right time

Seeds require correct temperature, moisture, air, and light requirements in order to germinate.

Plant seeds at the right time and soil temperature for the best germination rate and healthy seedlings. I use this soil thermometer to measure the soil temperature before planting.

Use your local planting guide (this post will help you find one) and soil temperature (check it with a soil thermometer) to determine the best time to plant.

Seeds germinate best at optimal temperatures. Use this chart from Penn State Extension for basic soil temperature guidelines of when to plant.

• = Does best when started indoors and planted as a transplant in the garden.

3. Prepare the soil before planting seeds

A plant will reflect the quality of the soil. I use this soil mixture in all of my beds. Add compost to your garden beds each season. Have your soil tested regularly, and amend the soil as needed to adjust the pH or nutrient levels.

For seeds to germinate, the soil should be moist and fluffy. Compacted soil does not have the air necessary for germination. Use a sprinkler attachment to moisten the soil before planting seeds. 

Learn other ways to become a self-sufficient gardener in this article.

4. Plant seeds at the correct depth

As a general rule, plant seeds two times as deep as they are wide (not tall). Seeds may require light to germinate and should not be planted deeply but only lightly covered with soil. Follow seed packet directions for exact depth requirements. 

Planting all of the seeds (of the same type) at equal depths will ensure more even germination. Use a dibber to measure how deep to plant each seed. 

How to plant a seed:

• Pull back mulch (if using).
• Make an indentation with a dibber in the soil.
• Place seed in soil indentation.
• Lightly cover with soil.
• After planting, firm the soil a bit with your hand to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. 
• Replace mulch during hot weather to keep the soil moist.

5. Follow plant spacing guidelines to give seeds enough room

Although seeds look small when you plant them, most will grow into large plants. It is important to give seeds enough room to grow. Overcrowded plants are more prone to pests and disease and must compete with each other for adequate light, air, moisture, and nutrients.

The back of the seed packet provides information about how far apart to plant the seeds. Follow the guidelines when you plant your seeds. 

An overview of different methods for the spacing of seeds in vegetable gardens:  

Square foot gardening – A certain number of seeds (depending on the plant) are planted in each square. To learn more about square foot gardening, read this post.

Row planting – Typical planting method. Plants are spaced within the row and then rows are spaced a certain distance apart. See seed packet for distances. Use string between two stakes to mark your row and plant seeds at the correct depth and spacing. 

Bed planting – Intensive planting method for some leafy greens and root crops. Seeds are spread evenly or broadcast over the planting area.  

Hill planting – Method that helps warm the soil in early spring. Mound soil for each foot to about 1 foot wide. Used for larger vegetables like melons, squash, and corn. Follow hill spacing and planting guidelines on seed packets.

6. Do not let newly-planted seeds dry out

• Plant seeds in moist soil and lightly water them after planting to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.
• Once planted, seeds begin taking up moisture from the surrounding soil. The newly-planted seed expands with the added moisture and opens. 
• The root emerges first and begins absorbing moisture and growing, anchoring the plant into the soil. The shoot emerges next and begins its journey up through the soil. This newly-emerged plant is called a seedling. 
• As the seed opens and begins to grow, adequate moisture is critical. Once the seed opens up, if a seed dries out, it will stop growing and die.
• Frequent, light applications of water are best at this stage of development. Strong streams of water may disturb seedlings and disrupt the soil. 
• Keep newly-emerged seedlings moist, gradually lengthening the time between waterings as the roots deepen and grow. 

7. Protect newly-planted seeds and seedlings from birds and frost

Use barrier methods such as tulle or cloches to prevent birds from eating planted seeds or damaging seedlings. Young seedlings are also tempting to in-ground pests like rollie-pollies. Use the tips in this blog post to help prevent pest damage. 

Pay attention to the weather and be prepared to cover newly-planted seedlings with frost cloth, cloches, or row covers if temperatures fall below freezing. 

8. Thin seeds when true leaves appear

Thinning is a term that describes removing the extra sprouted seeds that were planted too closely together. Thin seedlings by removing the extra seedlings until the plants are at the desired spacing. 

The best time to thin seedlings is usually after the first set of “true leaves appears”.

The first leaves to emerge are the cotyledons or “seed leaves”. True leaves emerge next, and they unfurl above the seed leaves and look like smaller versions of the adult leaves.

How to thin seedlings: 

• Select the strongest seedling. Strong seedlings are compact with short (not leggy stems).
• Use small clean snips and cut the weaker seedlings off at dirt level. Do not pull out seedlings. Pulling may disrupt the roots of the seedlings you are leaving in place. 
• With some crops like carrots, you may want to do an initial thinning and then come back in and do a second thinning once the plants get a little bit larger. 

Once you understand these guidelines for how to plant seeds outside, don’t be afraid to begin planting seeds in your garden. Do you still have questions about how to plant seeds outside? Ask me in the comments. 

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I’ve included a seed-starting guide for low-desert Arizona gardeners to help you know when to start the seeds inside. This chart (at the end of the article) includes dates for beginning sowing seeds indoors so they will be ready for transplanting at the right time. Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

If you are unsure how to start seeds indoors, this article shares 10 steps for successfully starting seeds indoors. 

When you learn how to start seeds indoors and start them at the correct time, you can have the advantages of growing from seed combined with the advantages of adding transplants directly into your garden.

Article Index:

Tips for growing vegetables from seed in Arizona

1. When to use seeds
2. When to use transplants
3. Crops that are best to direct-sow in the garden
4. Which seeds to sow indoors and transplant outside in the low desert of Arizona
5. When to start seeds indoors
6. Harden off seedlings before transplanting them in your Arizona garden

6 Tips for Growing Vegetables from Seed in Arizona

1. When to use seeds

Starting garden vegetables from seed has several advantages. Seeds are often much less expensive than purchased transplants. There is also a greater variety of options when starting from seeds. When you grow from seed, you aren’t limited to planting what your local nursery or big box store has in stock. 

Arguably, the biggest benefit is that plants grown from seeds can be planted at the optimal planting time for your location. Planting at the correct time is crucial for success. 

Are you wondering which seeds to use? For trusted varieties that grow well season after season, visit my favorite seeds.

Wondering which seeds to start in June? This month’s planting guide has all the details.

2. When to use transplants

Planting transplants in the garden has advantages as well. 

• Long-season crops like tomatoes and peppers need the head start that planting a transplant provides.
• Transplants are convenient, easy to use, and yield more predictable results than starting from seed.
• Planting transplants give you a harvest sooner.
• Transplants are also more resistant to damage from pests and insects than tiny seedlings. 

3. Crops that are best to direct-sow in the garden

Some crops do best when directly seeded into the garden rather than starting seeds indoors and planting transplants. The roots of these crops do best when left to grow undisturbed. Just click on the name of the vegetables to go to the seeds. 

Best direct sown:

• Beans
• Beets
• Carrots
• Corn
• Cucumbers
• Melons
• Parsnips
• Peas
• Pumpkin
• Radishes
• Rutabaga
• Squash
• Turnips

Crops like garlic and potatoes aren’t planted from seeds but from actual garlic cloves and sprouted potatoes, so they also do best when directly sown into the garden. 

4. Which seeds to sow indoors and transplant outside in the low desert of Arizona

Vegetables with a long growing season are often started indoors and then transplanted outside for the best chance of success. 

Here is a link to my favorite seed-starting supplies.

Although some crops have definite preferences about being sown in the garden or indoors, others will grow fine when planted either way. 

Vegetables that can be started from seed or transplant include:

• Bok choy
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Chives
• Collard greens
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Leeks  
• Lettuce
• Malabar spinach
• Mustard greens
• Okra
• Onions
• Roselle hibiscus
• Spinach
• Swiss chard

5. When to start seeds indoors

When you learn how to start seeds indoors in Arizona and start them at the correct time, you can have the advantages of growing from seed combined with the advantages of adding transplants directly into your garden at the best time. 

Use the following chart to determine when to start seeds indoors for your low-desert Arizona garden so they will be ready to plant at the correct time for your growing season.​

6. Harden off seedlings before transplanting them in your Arizona garden

You’ve worked so hard to get your seedlings ready to plant in the garden. Don’t forget this last step. It is very important to “harden off” seedlings before planting them in the garden. This allows them to adjust to the different conditions outside gradually rather than all at once. 

To “harden off” seedlings, begin by taking them outside to a shady location during the day and bringing them inside at night. For a few days, expose them to a little bit more sunlight each day. Plants that are “hardened off” correctly adjust better when planted out in the garden.

If you’re looking for tools, soil amendments, or seed-starting gear check out my carefully curated gardening supplies and tools page. It includes everything I rely on in the garden.

Would you like the low-desert planting dates for vegetables, herbs, and flowers in a convenient calendar? 

*PLANTING GUIDE: Each month has a planting guide (letter boards) for the vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in the low desert of Arizona. 

*HARVEST GUIDE: Harvest guides are the harvest photos of what it is possible to harvest each month. 

Learn More

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Garden Hack #1: The best way to use eggshells in the garden

Eggshells provide calcium and organic matter to your garden. Unfortunately, egg shells take a long time to break down. If you put them whole into the compost, the eggshells will be intact after everything else has decomposed.

The best way to use eggshells in your garden is to speed up the decomposition process in a blender. 

• Add eggshells and some water to your blender, give it a spin, and the eggshells are ready to pour into your soil.
• Consistently adding eggshells to the garden is a great way to improve the health of your soil over time.

Garden Hack #2: Celery grown from scraps

Celery from the garden is so convenient! There are many health benefits to eating and juicing celery regularly. The easiest way to grow celery is from a cut off-base of celery.

• Chop off stalks.
• Bury the base 2-3 inches deep and cover it in compost-rich soil.
• Sprouts from the stalk will appear in a few days.
• Give celery regular watering and fertilizer.
• Harvest stalks from the outside of the plant as needed.

Garden Hack #3: The best way to prune basil

Regular pruning of basil encourages a fuller plant and a larger harvest.

This article shares how to grow basil. 

• Once a basil plant is about 6 inches tall, prune just above a node (a grouping of 2 leaves growing out of the stem).
• The plant will branch out and grow from that point.
• Trim basil plants about every 2 weeks and pinch off flower buds as soon they appear.
• Consistently pruning basil ensures a steady harvest.

Garden Hack #4: Two things to do before planting flowers

The 4 and 6 packs of annual flowers are convenient and add a quick shot of color for the garden.

Doing these 2 things before you pop them in the ground will ensure a healthier plant and more blooms throughout the growing season.

1. Remove the flowers on the plant. Removing the flowers directs the plant’s energy to the roots rather than to producing seeds. The plant will settle in quicker and be a stronger plant overall. Pinching off blooms also encourages new shoots for a fuller and bushier plant.
2. Loosen and remove the corners of the roots of the plant. The roots have been very happy in their little ball of soil; disturbing the roots a little will encourage them to seek out your garden soil and grow deeper and wider. Plants with wider and stronger roots are healthier and easier to maintain, and you don’t have to water them as often.

Garden Hack #5: How to use coffee grounds in the garden

Free coffee grounds are readily available from your local Starbucks, so put them to use in your garden! Here are 2 simple ways to use coffee grounds in the garden:

1. Mix in with compost. Coffee grounds are considered green matter. This boost of nitrogen will heat up your compost fast!
2. Work coffee grounds into garden beds 1-2 weeks before planting.

Garden Hack #6: How to keep carrot seeds from drying out

Homegrown carrots are a great addition to your garden, but the seeds can be difficult to germinate. The problem? Carrot seeds are tiny and need to be planted close to the surface of the soil. They also dry out quickly and don’t sprout.

The solution? Put burlap or even a board on top of the soil after planting until the seeds germinate. Adding a barrier on top of the soil keeps the moisture in the soil longer. Moist seeds will sprout and grow.

Garden Hack #7: Best way to get rid of pill bugs organically

Pill bugs, potato bugs, rollie-pollies… whichever name you call them, they can eat through young seedlings and destroy your garden. 

Read this article for more ideas to prevent pill bug damage.

If you notice damage from these bugs (they are most active at night):

• Place oranges cut side-down in the garden overnight, check underneath them in the morning, and the soil will likely be teeming with pill bugs.
• Scoop out and dispose of the bugs.

Do this consistently and there should be a decrease in the amount of pill bugs in your garden. All this is done without harmful chemicals! To learn more about preventing pests organically, read this post.

Garden Hack #8: How to use Epsom salt in the garden

Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) strengthens plant cell walls, and helps plants use the nitrogen in the soil. Wondering how to use Epsom salt in the garden? It’s easier than you think.

Add 1 teaspoon Epsom salt to 32 ounces water in a spray bottle. Shake bottle well to dissolve. Spray solution on plant leaves and blossoms. This is a great treatment for pepper plants, tomato plants, and roses. Use an Epsom salt solution up to once a week during the growing season. 

Garden Hack #9: How to save seeds from your flower garden

Do some of your flowers look amazing this year? Don’t leave next year’s blooms to chance – save seeds from your favorite blooms on zinnias, cosmos, calendula, bachelor buttons, and many other types of flowers.

Saving seeds is simple for many flowers.

• At the end of the growing season, let the flowers mature on the plant without pinching off the bloom. The flower will mature into seeds.
• Remove seeds from flower, store in a paper bag or paper envelope, and label with type and date.

Saving seeds saves money and gives you a head start with seeds that did well in your garden’s specific growing conditions.

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