Companion planting is a proven way to boost garden success. If you’re new to the concept or looking for general tips, check out my 5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting to get started.

Best Companion Plants for Cucumbers

Cucumbers are warm-season crops that grow best in warm temperatures. When companion planting, choose crops from this list that also thrive in similar conditions to ensure all plants grow well together. For more information on companion plants for warm-season gardens read this guide.

Click on the name of each plant below for a detailed growing guide.

• Beans (especially bush beans): Beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which cucumbers love.
• Corn: Tall corn stalks double as a climbing structure for cucumber vines.
• Marigolds: Their scent repels common garden pests that also bother cucumbers.
• Sunflowers: Offer shade and support for climbing cucumbers. Plant outside of beds.
• Dill: Attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs that feed on cucumber pests.
• Radishes: Help break up soil and can deter pests with their pungent aroma.
• Onions (and other alliums): The smell helps keep pests at bay.
• Lettuce or Spinach: Low-growing greens that enjoy partial shade from climbing cucumbers.
• Nasturtiums: Add color, deter pests, and attract pollinators.
• Amaranth: Acts as a natural trellis for cucumbers, while its vibrant leaves add beauty to the garden and attract pollinators.
• Roselle Hibiscus: Provides shade for cucumbers in hot climates and serves as a heat-tolerant climbing support.
• Tithonia (Mexican sunflower): Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects while acting as a climbing support.
• Zinnia: Adds beauty to the garden and attracts bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
• Gomphrena: A heat-loving flower that supports pollinator populations and adds vibrant color.

For more details about how to grow cucumbers successfully, even in hot climates, see this guide.

Why These Cucumber Companion Plants Work

1. Shade & Support: Tall plants like sunflowers, amaranth, and roselle hibiscus create a cooler microclimate and give cucumbers a place to climb.
2. Pollinator Attraction: Flowers like zinnia, gomphrena, and tithonia bring bees and butterflies, improving cucumber pollination. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden.
3. Pest Control: Marigolds, onions, and nasturtiums deter common pests, keeping cucumber plants healthy.
4. Soil Enrichment: Nitrogen-fixing beans improve the soil, benefiting cucumbers.

By including heat-loving plants like basil, marigolds, tithonia, and gomphrena, your garden will thrive even in high temperatures while creating a habitat for pollinators and beneficial insects. For more plants that attract beneficial insects, see this guide.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective and can reduce pests naturally. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Tips for Using Cucumbers as a Companion Plant

• Train Them Vertically: Take advantage of sturdy plants—like sunflowers or tall amaranth—to let cucumber vines climb. This saves space and keeps fruits cleaner.
• Mix in Flowers & Herbs: This will create a habitat for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Herbs like basil, chives, and garlic protect cucumbers from pests while adding fresh flavors to your kitchen.
• Make Room for Root Crops: Cucumbers have shallow roots, so planting beets or carrots nearby won’t cause competition underground.
• Cool the Soil: Underplant cucumbers with lettuce or spinach. Cucumber vines provide the shade those greens need to stay crisp and happy in hot weather.

Hot Climate Cucumber Tip: Grow Armenian Cucumbers

If you’re gardening in a hot climate (like the low desert), regular cucumber varieties may become bitter as temperatures rise. Learn how to fix and prevent bitter cucumbers here. For heat-loving options, try Armenian cucumbers—the Painted Serpent variety is a favorite. Learn how to grow Armenian cucumbers in this guide. They thrive in intense heat and can climb up sunflowers, amaranth, or roselle hibiscus. Pair them with heat-loving companion plants like basil, marigolds, tithonia, zinnia, and gomphrena.

Final Thoughts

Diversity is key: mixing cucumbers with beans, corn, herbs, and flowers keeps your garden healthy and full of life. Companion planting makes a huge difference, no matter the season. Explore my guide to cool-season companion plants for more companion planting ideas.

Additional Resources

For more information about companion planting and how to make the most of your garden, check out these trusted resources:

• West Virginia University Extension: Companion Planting Guide
• University of Minnesota Extension: Companion Planting in Home Gardens

These guides provide in-depth insights into pairing plants for a healthier, more productive garden.

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The post Cucumber Companion Plants: Enhance Growth and Repel Pests appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this post, I’ll walk you through the essentials: how to store seeds so they last, how to organize seeds for easy access, and tips for keeping your seed collection manageable season after season. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced gardener, this guide will help you make the most of your seeds and save time, money, and effort.

Article Outline

1. Provide Optimal Conditions for Seed Storage
2. Understand Seed Life Expectancy
   • Seed Life Expectancy Table
3. Find a seed storage & organization method that works for you
4. Label Seeds for Easy Identification and Planting
5. Create a System for Using and Rotating Your Seeds Each Season

5 Tips for Seed Storage and Seed Organization

1. Provide Optimal Conditions for Seed Storage

To maximize seed longevity, you must protect seeds from moisture, warmth, air, light, and pests.

• Moisture: Seeds must be completely dry before storage. Moisture encourages mold and reduces viability. Avoid humid areas, and ensure seeds feel dry to the touch before storing.
• Temperature: Keep seeds cool and at a constant temperature, ideally between 32°F–50°F (0°C–10°C). Avoid temperature fluctuations—indoors is better than frequent trips in and out of a fridge. Avoid warm areas like attics or garages in summer.
• Air: Minimize air exposure. Store seeds in tightly sealed containers to slow deterioration.
• Light: Store seeds in a dark location, such as a closet, drawer, or under a bed, to extend their lifespan.
• Pests: Protect seeds from rodents and insects. Use secure containers, as cardboard, wooden boxes, and plastic bags are insufficient.

How to Store Seeds For Long-Term Seed Storage: If you want to store seeds for several years, take additional steps to ensure their longevity. Use airtight containers with desiccant packs to absorb moisture or vacuum-seal seeds to reduce air exposure further.

Store seeds in the freezer for maximum preservation—but only if they are completely dry. Allow frozen seeds to reach room temperature before opening the container to prevent condensation, which can damage the seeds.

By controlling these factors, you will create the ideal environment for long-term seed storage and keep your seeds viable for future planting.

2. Understand Seed Life Expectancy

How long can you expect stored seeds to last?

• Seed viability depends on their maturity and storage conditions. Fully ripened seeds last longer in storage and germinate better than underdeveloped seeds.
• Over time, stored seeds lose viability, and their germination rates decline. While older seeds may still sprout, they often produce weaker plants that are more susceptible to pests and disease.
• Different seeds have varying life expectancies—some deteriorate faster than others, even under optimal storage conditions.

Testing Seed Viability: Unsure if older seeds will still sprout? Use the damp paper towel method to check. Place a few seeds on a damp paper towel, fold it over, and seal it in a plastic bag or container. Keep it in a warm spot (65-75°F or 18-24°C) and check after a few days. If most seeds sprout, they’re still viable; if not, it’s time to replace them.

This table gives general guidelines for the life expectancy of seeds:

For more information about saving seeds, read this blog post or watch this video.

3. Find a seed storage & seed organization method that works for you

An effective seed storage and organization system should be simple, functional, and easy to maintain. If you garden year-round, you’ll need a system that allows quick and frequent access. If you only plant once a year, your needs will be different.

Choose a seed storage method that suits your habits and budget—overly complicated or expensive systems are harder to stick with. Be patient as you develop your seed organization routine. It doesn’t need to be perfect; consistency is what matters most.

My Seed Storage and Organization System

I use small, airtight containers for each type of seed to minimize air exposure. These are the containers I use on Amazon. These containers are stored in a large drawer, which keeps the seeds cool, dark, and easy to access when needed.

For added seed organization, the small containers can also be stored inside a larger storage box and placed in a cool, dark location.

To stay organized, I have a separate holding area for seeds I plan to plant soon and for packets that need to be returned to their containers. (This helps keep me organized if I can’t put seeds back right away.)

Starting out can feel overwhelming when it comes to supplies. That’s why I created my favorite garden tools and supplies page, where you’ll find the tools, seed storage, and watering products I rely on year after year.

4. Label Seeds for Easy Identification and Planting

Clear labeling in your seed storage system saves time and makes knowing when to plant your seeds easier. Use labels to include any information that’s helpful for you. I use these white labels to mark the seed type on the top of each container for quick identification.

For added convenience, include planting dates and other key details. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I offer pre-made labels in my shop with planting information for vegetables and flowers. You can see the vegetable labels here and the flower labels here.

Here’s the information I recommend when labeling your stored seeds:

• Seed name
• Planting dates
• Indoor seed-starting dates

Optional details for extra seed organization:

• Botanical name
• Germination time
• Preferred soil temperature
• Days to harvest
• Preferred sun exposure

Taking time to label your seeds now will make planting and garden planning much easier later.

Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers

Purchase the Vegetable Labels here, and the Flower Labels here.

5. Create a System for Using and Rotating Your Stored Seeds Each Season

It’s easy to buy more seeds than you need, especially if you aren’t aware of what you already have. An effective seed organization system helps reduce unnecessary purchases and ensures you use your seeds efficiently. Get more budget gardening ideas in this guide.

Here are a few tips to incorporate into your system:

• Rotate your seeds: Place the oldest seeds in front and the newest in the back. This encourages you to use older seeds first to avoid waste.
• Designate a planting area: Keep a separate space for seeds you plan to use soon, making garden planning and planting quicker and easier. Learn more about how to plan your garden in this guide.
• Organize for convenience: Have a designated spot for seeds that need to be returned to their containers if you can’t put them back immediately. I will often keep my seeds out in this area until I plant them in case there is information on the seed packet I need to refer to.
• Categorize your seeds: Sort your seeds into groups that make sense for you—by type (e.g., vegetables, flowers, herbs) or planting season (e.g., cool-season and warm-season crops).
• Track inventory: Keep a notebook or digital list nearby to jot down seeds you’re running low on or those you’d like to order.

Ready to start planting? These are my favorite seeds and the companies I order from year after year.

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Article Index:

1. Key Succession Planting Terms and Concepts
2. Succession Planting Plan for the Low Desert
3. Start with Cool-Season Crops in Late Fall and Winter
4. Transition to Warm-Season Crops in Early Spring
5. Plant Heat-Tolerant Varieties for Summer
6. Take Advantage of Extra Humidity During Monsoon Season
7. Return to Cool-Season Crops in Fall
8. General Tips for Succession Planting in the Low Desert

Succession Planting Terms and Concepts:

• Succession planting: Utilizing various planting methods to maximize available space and growing season.
• Interplanting: Growing two or more crops in the same area or near each other.
• Intercropping: Interplanting to increase yields.
• Companion Planting: Interplanting to benefit one another in some way.
• Varietal Succession Planting: Planting different varieties of the same crop with varying maturity dates to stagger harvest times.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Succession Planting Plan for the Low Desert

(Click on highlighted crop names for how-to-grow guides for each crop.)

1. Start with Cool-Season Crops in Late Fall and Winter

The cool months from late fall through winter provide ideal growing conditions for cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, and broccoli. These crops thrive in the milder temperatures and shorter days of the low desert’s winter.

How to Implement: Plant root vegetables and brassicas in late fall, followed by greens. As the season progresses and temperatures rise in spring, these crops will be ready for harvest, freeing up space for the next round of plantings. If you are growing kale, my favorite way to use it is in this salad–the best kale salad you’ll ever make.

Example Succession:

• Late Fall: Plant carrots, broccoli, cabbage, and beets as soon as nighttime temperatures begin to cool.
• Mid-Winter: Fill empty spots left from warm-season crops with lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and radishes.
• Intercropping Ideas: Plant peas next to a trellis filled with warm-season cucumbers. When the cucumbers finish, the peas will be ready to take their place and climb the trellis.
• Companion Planting Ideas: Add bachelor buttons, dill, cilantro, and calendula to empty spots in your beds.

Bonus tip: Experiment with different varieties of broccoli that have varied harvest times, such as broccoli raab, Chinese broccoli, and traditional head-type broccoli. (Click the links for seeds.)

2. Transition to Warm-Season Crops in Early Spring

As winter turns to spring, the increasing temperatures signal the perfect time to plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cucumbers. These crops can be planted in the spaces vacated by the cool-season crops, ensuring no garden bed stays empty for long.

How to Implement: Once your winter crops have been harvested, prepare the soil by adding compost and worm castings to replenish nutrients. Then, plant warm-season tomato and pepper transplants or cucumber seeds in early spring.

Example Succession:

• Early Spring: Replace harvested spinach and lettuce with tomato and pepper transplants.
• Mid-Spring: Plant cucumber and bean seeds as broccoli and carrots are harvested.
• Intercropping Ideas: Plant cucumber seeds at the base of broccoli plants. They will sprout and grow and be ready to take over when the broccoli finishes.
• Companion Planting Ideas: Plant marigolds and basil around your tomatoes.

Bonus tip: Experiment with pole and bush beans for staggered harvest times. The bush beans give you a larger initial harvest, and although the pole beans take longer to get going, they continue producing for weeks.

3. Plant Heat-Tolerant Varieties for Summer

The intense summer heat of the low desert can be challenging, but certain heat-tolerant crops like okra, eggplant, roselle, Armenian cucumbers, sweet potatoes, and melons survive these tough conditions. Choosing the right crops can keep your garden productive even during the hottest months.

How to Implement: After harvesting spring crops like beans and cucumbers, plant heat-tolerant crops that can withstand the summer sun.

Example Succession:

• Late Spring: As beans and early cucumbers are harvested, plant okra and eggplant.
• Summer: Plant Armenian cucumbers, melons, and sweet potatoes in open spaces, allowing them to spread and benefit from the summer heat.
• Intercropping Ideas: Plant okra and roselle seeds at the base of warm-season crops. When the warm season crops finish, the okra and roselle will take over the space.
• Companion Planting Ideas: Add different varieties of basil and zinnias throughout your garden.

Bonus tip: Plant sweet potatoes, cowpeas, and tepary beans at the base of okra and roselle plants. They will spread out below the tall plants and cover the soil during the hot summer months.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

4. Take Advantage of Extra Humidity During Monsoon Season

Why It Works: Although it is still hot, the goal is to get warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, Armenian cucumbers, and winter squash established so they can produce during the slightly cooler days of early fall. Monsoon humidity and moisture make conditions slightly more bearable and help crops adjust to summer’s long, hot days.

How to Implement: Choose sunny locations and then provide shade and mulch for a second round of tomatoes and peppers.

Example Succession:

• Late July and August: Clear out a couple of cover crops and plant tomatoes and peppers.
• Interplanting Ideas: Plant Armenian cucumber and winter squash seeds around other crops and see where they end up growing. Once they take off put ladder mesh trellises in the beds to give them something to climb.
• Companion Planting Ideas: Tuck a few fresh basil and zinnia seeds around the garden.

Bonus tip: Try different varieties of Armenian cucumbers – there are so many types! Check out the cucumbershop for seeds.

5. Return to Cool-Season Crops in Fall

Why It Works: As summer transitions into fall, the cooler temperatures once again become suitable for cool-season crops. By planning ahead, you can have seedlings or transplants ready to go into the garden as soon as space opens up.

How to Implement: Start seeds for fall crops like broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage indoors during late summer and transplant them into the garden as summer crops finish.

Example Succession:

• Early Fall: Harvest summer crops like melons and okra. Replace them with broccoli and cabbage seedlings.
• Late Fall: Continue planting cool-season crops as space becomes available, ensuring a continuous supply of fresh vegetables through the winter.
• Interplanting Ideas: Plant crops like spinach and kale under the large roselle branches to benefit from the shade while it’s still hot.
• Companion Planting Ideas: Begin planting cool-season herbs like dill, parsley, and cilantro in each garden bed.

Bonus tip: Cut back cover crop tepary beans and use them as mulch instead of straw for growing potatoes.

General Tips for Succession Planting in the Low Desert:

• Soil Preparation: After each crop, replenish soil nutrients with compost and worm castings to ensure the next planting has a healthy start.
• Mulching: Use mulch to help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, especially during summer. Learn what to use for mulch here.
• Irrigation: Adjust your watering schedule based on each season’s needs, watering deeply and only as often as needed. Learn more about how to water your garden in this guide.
• Crop Rotation: Rotate your crops each season to prevent soil-borne diseases and pests from becoming established.

Conclusion:

Succession planting is a powerful tool for maximizing the productivity of your low desert garden. You can enjoy a continuous harvest year-round by strategically planning your planting schedule and choosing the right crops for each season. Incorporate these succession planting ideas into your garden plan, and watch your garden thrive, even in the challenging conditions of the low desert.

Sources:

1. Cornell Cooperative Extension. (n.d.). Succession Planting: Healthy Plants and a Healthy Planet
2. High-Yield Vegetable Gardening, Colin McCrate, and Brad Halm

More Garden Planning Resources:

• Winter Garden Planning in Mild Climates
• Garden Planning in 5 Simple Steps
• Cool-Season Companion Plant Combinations
• Tips for Spring Planting – Spring Garden Checklist
• Square-Foot Gardening Plans

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The post Mastering Succession Planting in the Low Desert appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

• Understand Your Garden’s Microclimates
• Choose the Right Crops
• Use Raised Beds or Containers for Winter Gardening
• Timing is Everything
• Watering Wisely
• Frost Protection Strategies
• Maximizing Sunlight
• Conclusion

Understand Your Garden’s Microclimates

Microclimates are small areas within your garden with slightly different conditions than the surrounding area. These differences can be due to sunlight, wind exposure, and proximity to structures like walls or fences.

Understanding your garden’s microclimates allows you to choose the best spots for different crops. For example, a south-facing wall may provide extra warmth, making it ideal for plants that are more sensitive to cold. Use a minimum/maximum thermometer or thermometer gun to help you identify your yard’s warm and cool spots.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Choose the Right Crops

In warm regions, winter is the perfect time to grow cool-season crops that would struggle in the summer heat. Leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and kale thrive in cooler temperatures, as do root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets. Brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage also do well in winter gardens. (Click on the crop name to see the growing guides for each vegetable.)

Use the free garden planning worksheet to list what you will plant and where.

Use Raised Beds or Containers for Winter Gardening

Raised beds and containers are an excellent choice for winter gardening in warm regions. They offer better drainage, which is essential during winter when the soil can become waterlogged. Raised beds and containers also warm up more quickly than ground-level beds, giving your plants a head start on growth. Additionally, raised beds can be easier to cover with frost cloth or row covers, providing extra protection during unexpected cold snaps. Learn more about container gardening.

Timing is Everything

Timing is crucial when planning your winter garden. Although many crops grow well during mild winters, they get established best when temperatures are slightly warmer. This ensures that your plants are mature enough to withstand any brief dips in temperature. Use your local planting guide to determine the best time to plant. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, my planting guides will help you know the best time to plant.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

Watering Wisely

The watering needs of plants decrease in winter. If you’re used to watering often during hot temperatures, you may find yourself overwatering when temperatures cool down. Check your soil with your fingers or use a moisture meter before watering so you don’t overwater. Too much water can cause slow growth in plants. Learn more about how to water your garden.

Frost Protection Strategies

Prepare before frost by learning which crops must be covered if it freezes. Be prepared to protect your plants with frost cloth or burlap. Mulching around the base of your plants can also help insulate the soil and protect roots from freezing temperatures. Monitor the weather forecast regularly and be ready to take action if frost is predicted.

Maximizing Sunlight

During the winter months, the sun’s angle is lower, which can result in less direct sunlight for your garden. Be mindful of structures or trees that cast shadows over your garden beds. Position your winter garden in a spot that receives the most sunlight. Spacing plants further apart can help maximize the sunlight they receive. Learn which plants tolerate less sun in this guide.

Conclusion

You can make the most of your winter growing season by understanding your microclimates, choosing the right crops, utilizing raised beds and containers, and taking steps to protect your plants from frost. With careful planning and attention to detail, your winter garden will thrive, providing fresh, homegrown produce during the cooler months.

Winter gardening in mild climates means fresh harvests all season long. My Desert Gardening page highlights the best cool-season crops, planting tips, and simple frost protection to keep your garden thriving.

Additional Winter Gardening Resources:

• Best Winter Crops for Hot Summer Climates
• Cool-Season Companion Plant Combinations
• 10 Easy-to-Grow Cool-Season Companion Plants
• 10 Easy Cool-Season Vegetables to Plant from Seed

If this post about winter garden planning in mild climates was helpful, please share it.

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Companion planting is a proven way to boost garden success. If you’re new to the concept or looking for general tips, check out my 5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting to get started.

If you’re planning your garden layout, don’t miss this guide on cucumber companion plants—you’ll find tips on pairing cucumbers with flowers, herbs, and vegetables to improve growth and reduce pests.

1. Calendula

Tips for Growing: Calendula is a hardy annual that thrives in cooler weather. Sow seeds directly into the garden about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. It prefers full sun but can tolerate some shade.

Seed Source: Calendula Seeds
Learn More: Growing Calendula

2. Nasturtium

Tips for Growing: Nasturtiums are easy to grow and are great for the edges of garden beds or corners. Sow seeds directly into the soil, about ½ inch (1.2 cm) deep. Nasturtiums prefer full sun and well-drained soil. They attract beneficial insects like bees and can repel pests such as aphids.

Gardening with kids? Nasturtiums are a good choice. The seeds are easy to plant, and the leaves and flowers are edible. Get more tips for gardening with kids in this article.

Seed Source: Nasturtium Seeds
Learn More: Growing Nasturtium

3. Alyssum

Tips for Growing: Alyssum is a low-growing plant that produces a carpet of tiny, fragrant flowers. Sow seeds directly on the soil surface and press them in lightly. Alyssum is excellent for attracting pollinators and beneficial insects that help keep pests at bay.

Seed Source: Alyssum Seeds
Learn More: Growing Alyssum

4. Dill

Tips for Growing: Dill is a versatile herb that attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Dill prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It’s also great for companion planting with cabbage family crops. Dill is also an excellent companion plant for cucumbers.

Seed Source: Dill Seeds
Learn More: Growing Dill

5. Cilantro

Tips for Growing: Cilantro is a cool-season herb that does well when sown directly into the garden—plant seeds about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Bolted cilantro attracts beneficial insects and can help deter aphids.

Seed Source: Cilantro Seeds
Learn More: Growing Cilantro

Easy-to-Grow Cool-Season Companion Plants

6. Bachelor Buttons (Cornflower)

Tips for Growing: Bachelor buttons are easy to grow and produce beautiful, colorful flowers. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. They prefer full sun and well-drained soil. For more cool-season flowers to plant from seed, see this guide.

Seed Source: Bachelor Button Seeds
Learn More: Growing Bachelor Buttons

7. Borage

Tips for Growing: Borage can grow large, so it’s best planted at the end of a bed. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ½ inches (1.2 cm) deep. Borage attracts bees and other pollinators, and its leaves can be used as mulch or in compost.

Seed Source: Borage Seeds
Learn More: Growing Borage

8. Chamomile

Tips for Growing: Chamomile is a gentle herb that’s easy to grow from seed. Sow seeds on the soil surface and press them in lightly. Chamomile prefers full sun to partial shade.

Seed Source: Chamomile Seeds
Learn More: Growing Chamomile

9. Parsley

Tips for Growing: Parsley is a biennial herb that grows well in cool weather. Sow seeds about ¼ inch (6mm) deep in rich, well-drained soil. Bolted parsley attracts beneficial insects. In this guide, discover the benefits of insect hotels and learn how to effectively use them in your garden to attract beneficial bees and lacewings.

Seed Source: Parsley Seeds
Learn More: Growing Parsley

10. Violet

Tips for Growing: Violets are charming little flowers that thrive in cool weather. Sow seeds directly into the garden about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Violets prefer partial shade and are great for attracting pollinators while adding color to your garden. For more cool-season flowers that love mild winters, see this guide.

Seed Source: Violet Seeds
Learn More: Growing Violets

Incorporating cool-season companion plants into your garden beds is an easy way to boost biodiversity, attract beneficial insects, and add beauty to your space. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden. These ten cool-season companions are easy to grow from seed and will help your garden thrive. Plant a few seeds in the empty spots of your beds and enjoy the benefits they bring all season long.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

If you want more resources on warm-season companion planting read this guide.

Looking for a creative way to combine companion planting with small-space gardening? Learn how to grow a 3 Sisters Garden in grow bags using corn (or alternatives), beans, and squash for a thriving mini-ecosystem.

If this article about cool-season companion plants was helpful, please share it.

The post Best Companion Plants for Cool-Season Gardens appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If you’re new to gardening—or just curious about what gardening blogs like this one mean when they mention bolting, germinate, or annual—check out my Gardening Glossary. It’s a simple reference that helps make all the terminology clear so you can follow posts with confidence.

1. Carrots

Tips for Growing: Carrots thrive in loose, well-drained soil. Sow seeds thinly and keep the soil consistently moist until they germinate—thin seedlings early and often for the largest carrots. Learn how to grow carrots in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Nantes’
• ‘Danvers’
• ‘Bolero‘

Carrots are a favorite for fall planting, but watch for disease as spring approaches. Learn how to deal with Powdery Mildew on Carrots.

2. Turnips

Tips for Growing: Turnips are quick-growing and prefer cooler weather. Plant seeds directly into the garden; thin seedlings about 4 inches (10 cm) apart. They do well in most soils but prefer a slightly acidic pH. Learn how to grow turnips in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Pastel Duo Baby Turnips’
• ‘Purple Top White Globe’
• ‘White Lady’

3. Swiss Chard

Tips for Growing: Swiss chard is a hardy green that can tolerate light frosts. Plant seeds about ½ inch (1 cm) deep and thin to about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) apart. Swiss chard will continue to produce throughout the fall and can even overwinter in mild climates. Learn how to grow Swiss chard in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Bright Lights’
• ‘Fordhook Giant’
• ‘Ruby Red’

4. Spinach

Tips for Growing: Spinach loves cool weather; it will grow best once the cooler nights of fall arrive. Sow seeds directly and thin to about 3 inches (7 cm) apart. Keep the soil moist to prevent bolting, which can happen if temperatures fluctuate too much. Learn how to grow spinach in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Bloomsdale’
• ‘Catalina’

5. Lettuce

Tips for Growing: Lettuce is a cool-season crop that grows quickly. Scatter seeds thinly and cover lightly with soil. Thin seedlings to about 4 inches (10 cm) apart for leaf lettuce and 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) for head lettuce. Regular watering will keep the leaves tender. Learn how to grow lettuce in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Jericho’
• ‘Sweety Baby Romaine’
• ‘Flashy Trout Back’

10 Easy Cool-Season Vegetables to Plant from Seed

For low desert planting dates and spacing information for these vegetables see my Vegetable, Herb & Fruit Planting Guide.

6. Radishes

Tips for Growing: Radishes are among the fastest-growing fall vegetables, often ready to harvest in just a few weeks. Sow seeds directly into the soil and thin to about 2 inches (5 cm)apart. Keep the soil moist for the best flavor and texture. Learn how to grow radishes in this article.

Gardening with kids? Radishes are a good choice. The seeds are easy to plant, and the seeds germinate quickly. Get more tips for gardening with kids in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Petit Dejeuner’
• ‘Easter Egg II’
• ‘Watermelon Radish’

7. Peas

Tips for Growing: Peas thrive in the cool fall weather and tolerate a light frost. Plant seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep and provide a trellis. Water regularly, especially when the plants are flowering and setting pods. Learn how to grow peas in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Super Sugar Snap‘
• ‘Oregon Giant Snow’
• ‘Little Crunch’

8. Beets

Tips for Growing: Beets are a dual-purpose crop providing greens and roots. Sow seeds directly and thin seedlings to about 3-4 inches (7-10 cm) apart. Beets prefer well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Learn how to grow beets in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘5 Color Rainbow’
• ‘Golden’
• ‘Chioggia’

9. Arugula

Tips for Growing: Arugula is a fast-growing green with a peppery flavor, perfect for fall salads and topping pizza. Sow seeds directly and thin to about 3-4 inches (7-10 cm) apart. Arugula can be harvested as baby greens or allowed to mature for a stronger flavor. Learn how to grow arugula in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Rocket’
• ‘Rustic’
• ‘Italian’

10. Kale

Tips for Growing: Kale is a cold-hardy green that improves in flavor after a frost. Sow seeds directly and thin to about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) apart. Kale can be harvested as baby greens or left to mature into full-sized leaves. Learn how to grow kale in this article.

Favorite Varieties:

• ‘Lacinato’
• ‘Purple Moon’
• ‘Triple Curled Dutch’

Need help selecting what to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

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Article Outline:

1. Order garlic before it sells out
2. Grow the world’s most expensive spice
3. Plant ranunculus and anemone for a beautiful spring
4. You can grow tulips in hot climates!

Order garlic before it sells out

Let’s start with garlic, a staple in many kitchens. Many suppliers are sold out if you wait until planting time to order. Choose softneck varieties if you live in hot summer climates. The best time to plant garlic in the low desert of Arizona is during October. This blog post has more information on garlic growing. Look for local suppliers if possible. I order my bulbs from Forever Yong Farms. 

Grow the world’s most expensive spice

Saffron is another bulb to consider planting this fall. Saffron is known for its vibrant red stigmas used in cooking and has a hefty price tag due to its labor-intensive harvesting process. Plant the sizeable saffron crocus corms covered in silky fibers in most areas in early fall (August – September). I order saffron from Renee’s Garden Seeds. Learn more about how to grow saffron in this blog post. 

Plant ranunculus and anemone for a beautiful spring

Ranunculus and anemone are some of my favorite choices for spring blooms. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ranunculus corms from October to November for early spring blooms. I have the best luck with “Easy to Grow” ranunculus corms and anemones; they are good-sized and true to color. Get information on ranunculus growing in this blog post.

You can grow tulips in hot climates!

Tulips are a classic choice for spring gardens. These bulbs come in various colors and sizes, making them versatile for any garden style. Buying pre-chilled bulbs or pre-chilling them yourself is essential if you live in a hot summer climate. Ordering them now ensures the bulbs arrive ready to plant. The best time to plant in the low desert is at Thanksgiving. Choose from the Darwin Hybrid or Triumph tulip families for the low desert. I get my tulips from Roozengaarde. Learn how to grow tulips in this blog post.

By ordering and planting these bulbs this fall, you’ll set yourself up for a colorful and successful garden come springtime. Ordering early ensures you get the best selection of bulbs and allows you to plan your garden layout. Don’t wait—order your bulbs now and get ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor next spring.

For a complete overview of planting and growing bulbs in the low desert, visit the Arizona Bulb Planting Guide. Once your bulbs arrive, the next step is planting and care. Learn how to give them the best start in the Arizona Bulb Growing Guide.

Want to enjoy flowering bulbs on your patio or in small spaces? Learn how to grow bulbs successfully in pots in this guide to growing bulbs in containers in hot climates.

Additional Fall Gardening Resources:

• Starting a Fall Garden
• 10 Easy-to-Grow Fall Flowers

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When beneficial insects, predators, and parasitoids choose to live and reproduce in your garden, they are ready to spring into action when pest populations climb. The best part? A diverse landscape is also beautiful. You’ll love it, too!  

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Supporting pollinators in the desert takes the right plants and placement. Find out what works in Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden.

Using Annual Plants to Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for Natural Pest Control

Incorporating annual plants that attract beneficial insects into your garden is a simple way to help create a balanced ecosystem. Annual plants are relatively easy to grow; many start easily from seed and are relatively inexpensive compared to perennial plants.

Annual Plants for Attracting Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for Natural Pest Control

This annual plant list is a great starting point for selecting plants to create a haven for beneficial insects and pollinators.

• Alyssum – Check out my Growing Guide for Alyssum.
• Coreopsis
• Aster
• Anise
• Bee Balm
• Buckwheat
• Chamomile– Discover how to grow chamomile in my Growing Guide for Chamomile.
• Clover
• Coneflower
• Coreopsis
• Cosmos
• Daisy (Regular and Shasta) – Check out my Growing Guide for Shasta Daisies.
• Dill– Discover how to grow dill in my Growing Guide for Dill.
• Feverfew
• Goldenrod
• Lovage
• Mint – Find growing tips in my Mint Growing Guide.
• Oregano – Learn how to grow oregano in my Oregano Growing Guide.
• Ratibida
• Rudbeckia– Discover how to grow rudbeckia in my Growing Guide for Rudbeckia.
• Sunflowers – Check out my Growing Guide for Sunflowers.
• Verbena – Find growing tips in my Vebena Growing Guide.
• Yarrow – Discover how to grow Yarrow in my Growing Guide for Yarrow.

Download the printable “Annuals for Natural Pest Control” at the top of this post.

Incorporating plants from this annual plant list that attract beneficial insects and pollinators will help promote a beautiful, healthy, diverse ecosystem in your garden.

Are you growing any of these plants, or did I miss one of your favorites? Leave a comment and let me know.

References and Further Reading

1. “Native Plants for Pollinators & Beneficial Insects: Southwest – Sonoran Desert“
2. Desert Museum Plant List
3. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

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The first gardening class I attended was about square foot gardening. I soaked it all in and then bought Mel Bartholomew’s “Square Foot Gardening” book. One of the concepts I loved was the simplicity of plant spacing in square foot gardens. 

How do you space plants in square foot gardening

A key factor in being successful with plant spacing in square foot gardening is adding a grid to your garden. Mel Bartholomew said, “If your garden box doesn’t have a grid, it’s not a Square Foot Garden.”  His book also emphasized that the grids be “prominent and permanent”. I have come to see the wisdom in this tip.

Why use grids for plant spacing in square foot gardens?

In the past, I had some garden beds with grids and some without grids. After using both, I can say the ones with grids have several advantages: 

• Garden beds with planting grids utilize space more efficiently by eliminating the need for rows.
• Using a garden grid helps you see exactly where there is space to plant. When I see an empty square, I’m quick to fill it with seeds or plants. In the past, empty spots in beds without grids were often left empty.
• Garden grids help an unorganized gardener (like me) be more organized – I don’t have to worry about straight rows. 

• Following plant-spacing guidelines with garden grids allows for proper spacing between plants. This prevents overcrowding, which causes plants to compete for limited resources of sun, water, and nutrients. 
• Using garden grids in your garden beds allows for a system of polyculture (several compatible plants growing together) as opposed to monoculture (row after row of the same crop) which is better for pest and disease prevention.

Free Square Foot Gardening Downloads

Which type of garden grids should I use for square foot gardening?

Once I realized the benefits of using grids with square foot gardening, I added grids to all of my raised beds. My favorite way to add grids for square foot gardening is with the Garden Grid™ from Garden In Minutes.

The benefits of using the Garden Grid™ from Garden In Minutes include:

• The grids are prominent and easy to see. 
• Assembly is simple; the garden grids come in preassembled sections that press together by hand in seconds.
• At the end of each season, it’s easy to lift the grid off of the bed to add compost to fill the beds. With my previous grids made of wood, it was difficult to add compost because the grids were screwed into the beds. 
• Each square is watered evenly with 16 water streams, which helps seed germination.

How do I know how many seeds or plants to put in each square?

Now for the fun part – adding plants to your square foot garden. To calculate how many plants or seeds to plant per square, look at the back of your seed packet. Ignore the space between rows, but pay attention to how much space is needed between plants.

For example:

3″ plant spacing = plant 16 in each square.

4″ plant spacing = plant 9 in each square.

6″ plant spacing = plant 4 in each square.

12″ plant spacing = plant 1 in each square.

Some plants (such as melons, large squash, and tomatoes) require more than one square.

Wondering how to space corn, beans, and squash in a small garden? I share the exact layout I used in this Three Sisters garden in raised beds using square-foot gardening principles.

Use this tool to space seeds perfectly in your square foot garden. 

Why is plant spacing important in square foot gardens?

Follow the plant-spacing guidelines. Planting the recommended amounts allows you to utilize all the space in the beds without overcrowding. Proper spacing ensures adequate airflow for plants.  

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It took time to realize that although the soil was good and I was watering, my timing was wrong. Knowing where to look for accurate planting information was difficult. However, I began having successful harvests once I found and started using a planting guide meant for my area.

Why do I need a planting calendar to tell me when to plant?

Every vegetable, herb, fruit, and flower has a preferred growing temperature. Some crops prefer cooler weather and tolerate a little frost; others need warmer weather to grow well and would die in frosty conditions. Plants are happiest and grow best when they are planted at the ideal soil temperature and growing conditions.

Planting crops at the right time is a crucial part of gardening. However, the best time to plant varies greatly by region. A big part of gardening success is learning the unique growing conditions of your area.

For example, in many parts of the United States, Mother’s Day (mid-May) is the best time to plant tomatoes. However, if you plant tomatoes on Mother’s Day in the low desert of Arizona, your plants will not have time to get established before the extreme heat of summer.

In the low desert, tomatoes are planted in late February or March with another planting window when the monsoon rains begin in late July and August.

How can I find a planting calendar that tells me when to plant for my area?

Using a reliable planting guide developed for your area gives you the greatest chance of success.

To find a planting guide or calendar for your area:

• Ask experienced gardeners in your area. 
• Contact your local extension office (linked below) to help determine the best time to plant. Many extension offices have planting calendars linked on their website. Temperatures and climate can vary widely within a state; look for the county extension office closest to you if possible. 
• Local nurseries can be an excellent resource for when to plant your garden and other information. 
• If you can’t find a planting guide for your area, there are still ways to determine the best time to plant. Use your first and last frost dates to make your planting calendar. This knowledge is a good starting point. Many crops give you an average planting date, such as “2 weeks before/after your last frost date”.

How can I find my average frost dates?

It is important to know your average first and last frost dates. To find your dates, go to www.almanac.com/frostdates/.

What is my “growing season”?

The number of days between your last and first frost date is your “growing season”. Colder areas have a shorter growing season than warmer areas. Understanding the length of your growing season allows you to select vegetable varieties well-suited to your area.

How can I find my hardiness zone?

For fruit trees and perennial plants, it is also essential to know your USDA growing zone. To learn your zone, go to https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/ and enter your zip code. 

Hardiness zones show the average annual minimum temperature ranges for a specific area. Awareness of your growing zone helps you know when to plant your garden, which fruit trees will survive outdoors, or if containers must be brought inside during cold months.

Hardiness zones are not a good indicator of summer temperatures.

List of Extension Offices by State:

Click on a state name to go to the extension website for that state. Most extension offices have planting guides and other growing information linked within their website.

Credit to https://www.almanac.com/ for compiling this list.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I have several planting guide resources:

When I first started gardening, I didn’t know where to go for correct information about when to plant my garden here in the low desert of Arizona. Now that I am learning when to plant from resources like the University of Arizona Extension Office and my own experience, I’m passionate about sharing what I’ve learned. I created a planting calendar for the low desert of Arizona.

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

A blog post with seed starting dates and information.

Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers

Purchase the Vegetable Labels here, and the Flower Labels here.

Learn other ways to become a self-sufficient gardener in this article.

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Knowing which size container to use is crucial to gardening successfully in containers.

Different plants require different sizes for their roots, so it isn’t always easy to tell which size container you will need. Many young transplants and seeds are the same size initially but vary greatly once they mature.

A NOTE ABOUT CONTAINER SIZES: 

• Container sizes are not standardized and often use different types of measurements.
• Sizes listed here are measured by the amount of soil they hold (dry-soil measurements). 
• Choose the largest possible container for vegetables to give them access to more soil, food, and water. 
• Generally, aim for the container to be as deep as it is wide. This provides the most room for the roots.
• Containers that hold less than 2 gallons of soil are not recommended for growing most vegetables to maturity.

Extra Small Container

Holds up to two gallons (.3 cubic feet) of soil. 

Examples include: 8″ terra cotta or nursery pot, 2 gallon grow bag, and a 10″ hanging basket

Plants that grow well in extra small containers include: sage, rosemary, thyme, nasturtium, kale, green onions, basil, radishes, lettuce, chard, arugula, calendula

Small Container

Holds up to three gallons (.46 cubic feet) of soil. 

Examples include: 10″ terra cotta or nursery pots, 3 gallon grow bag, and a 14″ hanging basket

Plants that grow well in small containers include: kohlrabi, carrots, beets, strawberries, dill, cilantro, celery

Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use? (cont.)

Medium Container​

Holds up to five gallons (.69 cubic feet) of soil.

Examples of medium containers include: five-gallon plastic bucket, 12″ terra cotta or nursery pot, and five gallon grow bag

Plants that grow well in medium containers include: beans, broccoli, cabbage, lemongrass, okra, potatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, ginger, turmeric.

Large Container

Holds up to ten gallons (1.5 cubic feet) of soil.

Examples of large containers include: 16″ terra cotta or nursery pots, and a 10 gallon fabric grow bag

Plants that grow well in large containers include: sweet potatoes, tomatoes, cantaloupe, watermelon

Extra Large Container

Holds up to twenty gallons (2.73 cubic feet) or more of soil. 

Examples of extra large containers include: 18″ terra cotta pots (2.3 cubic feet of soil), 24″ terra cotta pots (3.8 cubic feet of soil), 20-gallon grow bags, and half wine barrels (4.3 cubic feet of soil)

Plants that grow well in extra large containers include: dwarf citrus trees, fig trees

My container gardening resources:

For more resources, I have several videos and blog posts that provide step-by-step guides, tips, and tricks for successful container gardening. I even wrote a book about container gardening, which covers everything from choosing the correct containers to harvesting your first crop. You’ve got this! 

• Pros & Cons of Container Gardening
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening
• Gardening in Grow Bags: 5 Tips for Success
• The Best Way to Water Containers
• Grow Anywhere: Smart and Creative Gardening Container Ideas
• Container Gardening Playlist on YouTube

If you enjoy container gardening, you’ll love the benefits of elevated beds—check out my guide, How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds, to learn how to get started

Looking for more small space gardening ideas? Don’t miss my post on GreenStalk Gardening Tips, where I share what’s worked (and what hasn’t) in my Arizona garden.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

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Start small—a container or two is a great way to start. This container gardening for beginners blog post will give you all the information you need to get started.

1. Choose the location for your container garden

You can’t grow anything without sunlight. The amount of sun the area receives is the most important consideration. Observe your yard at different times of the day. Ideally, the location for your containers receives 6-8 hours of sun throughout the day. Look for an area that receives morning sun if you can. You’ll need easy access to water as well.

2. Decide what you are going to plant in your container garden

Make a list of what you would like to grow. Grow what you like to eat and maybe try something new as well. Use your planting guide to find out which crops do well in your area and find out the best time to plant them. 

Look at your available space and make sure you have enough room to grow everything you would like. Learn about each plant (my blog has over 75 “How to Grow” articles about different vegetables, herbs, flowers, and fruit). Decide if you need seeds or transplants. Head to your local nursery or favorite online retailer for seeds and/or transplants.

3. Choose the right container

Here are two important considerations when choosing your containers: 

Size: The size of a plant is usually limited by the container in which it is grown. Larger plants have larger root zones and need adequate-sized containers in order to grow a large enough root structure.

Drainage holes: Make sure the containers you are using have drainage holes.The hole allows excess water to drain out of the container. Too much water can be as damaging to plants as too little. Plant’s roots need air as well as water. Without air, the roots suffocate and die. 

If the container is on a hard surface, lifting the container up off the ground with pot feet allows the water to drain freely out of the hole.

Learn how to choose the right size container in this guide.

4. Fill container all the way up with soil (no filler)

Regular garden soil is too compact and heavy for container gardening, and does not provide the air and water necessary for the roots to grow. 

Look for a raised-bed mix or potting soil that contains compost, coconut coir, and vermiculite or perlite. It should be light, fluffy, and drain well. This provides the nutrients, air, and water for the roots.

I use the same soil mixture in my raised beds and in my containers.

Put the pots in your desired location and fill the containers all the way up with soil. Don’t add any filler to the bottom of the container. The more soil, nutrients, and water available for your plants, the better.

If you want to add an olla to your containers, now would be the time. Consider adding an olla if you can. You’ll see an olla in just about all my containers. 

What is an olla? 

A clay pot with a narrow neck and bulging body used as a watering technique that reduces evaporation and makes water available where it is needed by the roots. The wider part of the olla is buried in the soil with the narrow opening remaining above soil level. 

The olla is regularly filled with water, which seeps out through the porous wall of the pot into the surrounding soil and root zone of the plant. I use ollas from Growoya in most of my containers.

5. Plant the seeds and transplants in the container

When planting seeds and transplants, here are three things to keep in mind: 

Spacing: Adequate space and airflow around plants is necessary for healthy, happy plants. Crowding plants too close together causes problems with disease. Use the spacing guidelines on seed packets or plant labels as a guide when planting.

Transplants: Dig a hole for your plant, and place the transplant in your container at the same level it was in the nursery pot. (Tomato plants are an exception to this rule.)

New transplants dry out more quickly; water them more often until they get established.

Seeds: Typically plant 2 times the depth of the seed. Keep seeds moist until they sprout.

6. Water your container garden correctly

Plants’ roots in containers can’t search out water sources. We have to meet the plants’ watering needs. Many problems in the garden can be traced back to incorrect watering—either not enough or too much water.

Check your containers frequently. Dip your finger into the soil an inch or so (under the mulch) and if it feels dry, it’s time to water. You can also use a moisture meter to give you a more exact idea of how wet the roots are.

Pay attention to your plants. Your plants will tell you if their water needs aren’t being met. Droopy, wilted leaves are a sign you waited too long to water.  Be careful to water the soil, not the plant. Plants absorb water through their roots in the soil, not through their leaves. 

Add a 1″–2″ layer of mulch (such as wood chips) to help conserve moisture in the soil.

7. Feed plants in your container garden regularly

Because frequent watering means nutrients are washed away and roots can’t go looking in the ground for additional nutrients, it’s also a good idea to feed some plants regularly. Compost-rich potting soil will feed your garden for the first few weeks. Use a water-soluble organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion or liquid seaweed (or a combination of both). Follow dilution instructions on the bottle.

8. Pay attention to your plants each day ​

Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease and less attractive to pests. Make it a habit to spend some time in your garden each day. 

• Notice the new growth and blossoms forming.
• Check under leaves for pests. Pests and disease are much easier to spot when they are small.
• Clean up fallen leaves and debris.

9. Harvest at the right time​

Learn about the plants you are growing so you know the best  time to harvest, usually when the crops are young and tender. Fruit and vegetables left too long on the plant can become tough or woody. Picking often encourages the plant to produce more crops.

10. Learn from your experiences

Take time to make a note about your experiences. Documenting your journey helps you learn, such as which types of seeds or transplants you used, the date(s) you planted, what the harvests were like, and any challenges you faced. Learn from your mistakes and enjoy your successes. 

Do you have more tips to share for container gardening for beginners? Let me know in the comments.

Growing in the Garden container gardening resources:

If you’re looking for more resources, I have several videos and blog posts that provide step-by-step guides, tips, and tricks for successful container gardening. I even wrote a book about container gardening, which covers everything from choosing the right containers to harvesting your first crop. You’ve got this! 

If you are just getting started with gardening, this beginner’s guide is a great place to begin. It pulls together my most helpful resources for new gardeners and walks you through the first steps toward a thriving garden.

• Best Vegetables to Grow in Pots
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• The Pros & Cons of Container Gardening
• Gardening in Grow Bags: 5 Tips for Success
• The Best Way to Water Containers
• Grow Anywhere: Smart and Creative Gardening Container Ideas
• Container Gardening Playlist on YouTube

If you enjoy container gardening, you’ll love the benefits of elevated beds—check out my guide, How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds, to learn how to get started

Looking for more small space gardening ideas? Don’t miss my post on GreenStalk gardening tips, where I share what’s worked (and what hasn’t) in my Arizona garden.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

If you enjoyed this post about how to start a container garden, please share it.

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What We Will Cover:

• Evaluate your garden to determine how much sunlight it receives
• Know how much sun different types of plants need
• Maximize the available sunlight your garden receives to grow vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade
• Anticipate the challenges of growing vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade
• Plant the right type of vegetables, herbs, and flowers for the amount of sunlight your garden receives

1. Evaluate your garden to determine how much sunlight it receives

One of the most important principles for gardening success is sunlight. Understanding the different terms related to the amount of sunlight an area receives is important. 

The sun’s angle changes throughout the year. Evaluate your garden at different times of day throughout the year (spring, summer, fall, winter) to understand how much light your garden receives.  Consider the height of surrounding trees, buildings, and other obstructions as they can limit the amount of light that reaches your garden. Use an app or program to map out the sun’s route and learn exactly when your garden gets direct sunlight, partial shade, and full shade. This will help you determine what plants are best suited for your garden.

• Full Sun: 6–8 hours (or more) of direct sunlight daily.
• Partial Sun: 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Partial Shade: 3-4 hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Full Shade: Less than 3 hours of direct sun.
• Deep Shade: No sun at all.

Vegetables, herbs, and flowers may not grow if your garden receives less than 3 hours of sun.

2. Know how much sun different types of plants need

Although some plants need very little sun, plants grown for food usually need plenty of sunlight. Some types of vegetables, herbs, and flowers will tolerate some shade more than others, but all need sun. Most plants do best with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. For example:

• Flowering plants need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight.
• Plants grown for edible roots need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight.
• Plants grown for edible leaves need at least 3 hours of direct sunlight.
  

3. Maximize the available sunlight your garden receives to grow vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade

Leave more space between plants. Plants too close to each other will shade one another. 

• Use containers or grow bags to move the garden where the sunlight is.
• Anticipate areas that will receive more sun as trees lose their leaves.
• Grow plants vertically. Typically place vertical supports on the north side of your garden to prevent shading of other plants. 

Be aware of micro-climates in your garden and areas that receive more/less sun, and plant accordingly.

4. Anticipate the challenges of growing vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade

• Take care not to overwater. Plants grown in areas that receive less sun will need less water. 
• Be patient if your vegetables, herbs, or flowers take longer than the “days to harvest” number on the seed packet. Plants grown in less than ideal sunlight conditions will take longer to develop. 
• Understand that vegetables, herbs, and flowers grown with less sun may be smaller than their full-sun counterparts.  
• Some herbs and veggies may get “leggy” as they reach for the sun; harvest more often to keep plants compact.
• Do not over-fertilize. Plants require less fertilization when grown in the shade. 
• Be on the lookout for pests. Pests are drawn to plants that are grown in less-than-ideal conditions. Daily vigilance and early detection are the best defenses against pests. Read this post for organic pest control options.

5. Plant the right type of vegetables, herbs, and flowers for the amount of sunlight your garden receives

Vegetables that tolerate partial sun (4-6 hours of direct sunlight) include broccoli, peas, celery, beans, onions, cauliflower, cabbage, leeks, asparagus, and scallions.

Vegetables that tolerate partial shade (3-4 hours of direct sunlight) include arugula, bok choy, Brussels sprouts, kale, beets, kohlrabi, parsnip, carrots, turnip, radish, lettuce, spinach, mustard greens, and chard.

Many herbs tolerate partial shade, including chervil, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, chives, thyme, ginger,  lemon verbena, parsley, mint, bay, oregano, sage, and turmeric.

Many flowers tolerate partial shade including nasturtium, sweet peas, lobelia, larkspur, foxglove, impatiens, begonia, calendula, fuchsia, forget-me-not, violet, and alyssum.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Do you have other ideas for herbs or vegetables that grow in shade? Let me know in the comments.

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It’s easy to see why grow bag gardening is becoming popular for new gardeners and gardeners looking to add more space to their gardens.

Advantages of gardening in a grow bag

Some of the advantages of grow bag gardening include: 

• Grow bags are an inexpensive, easy way to add growing space. Look for good quality grow bags that will last many seasons.
• Gardening in grow bags prevents overwatering. Excess water drains through the fabric and prevents soggy soil and roots. Look for good quality grow bags; they should have excellent drainage. (These are the ones I recommend on Amazon.)
• Grow bags are easy to store when not in use. Clean them out by spraying off well, and then fold them up and let them dry. 

• Unlike most containers, grow bags allow plants’ roots to breathe. Happy roots mean a happy plant. This is one of the biggest advantages of grow bag gardening.
• The ability to move grow bags easily to the best location. Look for a sunny spot in cool climates or give them shade in hot climates. 
• When gardening in grow bags you can make a big difference for bees and butterflies. See how in my posts, Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden and Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden.

Disadvantages of gardening in grow bags (and what to do about it)

Grow bags require more watering than traditional pots and the soil can dry out quickly. 

• For thirsty plants like tomatoes and squash, use a grow bag with a watering reservoir or add an olla to the grow bag. 

Larger grow bags can be hard to move when full of soil.

• To make grow bags easier to move, choose good quality bags with heavy-duty handles and get help. Be sure of the location before filling it. 

Grow bags require more frequent fertilization than raised beds or in-ground beds. Similar to other containers, plants grown in grow bags require more frequent fertilization. 

•  Use a half dose of a liquid fertilizer every few weeks during the growing season for most crops. 

5 Tips for Successful Grow Bag Gardening

1. Choose the right plants to grow in grow bags

Because grow bags limit the size of the roots and available water, some plants are better suited to grow in grow bags than others.

When choosing which plants to grow in grow bags, look for “dwarf” varieties. These are smaller versions of full-size plants that do better in grow bags. Also, select “bush” or “compact” varieties rather than vining types.

If you’re exploring what to plant in grow bags, don’t miss this guide to the Three Sisters Grow Bag Garden—a space-saving way to grow corn, beans, and squash (or their alternatives) together in a single container.

Crops that grow well in grow bags include: 

• arugula
• radishes
• lettuce
• peppers
• carrots
• strawberries
• potatoes
• kale
• green onions
• cucumbers
• eggplant
• beets

Herbs that grow well in grow bags include: 

• basil
• dill
• cilantro
• sage
• rosemary
• thyme
• garlic
• parsley
• oregano
• ginger
• turmeric
• calendula

2. Use oyas or self-watering grow bags for thirsty plants

Because grow bags dry out more quickly, certain crops will do better if grown with an oya or in a self-watering type grow bag. I use oyas from Growoya.

3. Choose the correct size grow bag

Wondering which size of grow bag to choose? Look at plant spacing guidelines for the plants you would like to grow. The chart below gives general guidelines about the size of grow bag for common vegetables, fruits, and herbs. 

Extra small grow bag (holds up to 2 gallons/7.5 liters of soil) is a good choice for many herbs like sage, rosemary, thyme, and basil. 

This size grow bag is also good for many vegetables such as kale, green onions, radishes, lettuce, chard, and arugula. 

A small grow bag (holds up to 3 gallons/11 liters of soil) is a good choice for many herbs like dill, cilantro, and parsley. (These are the ones I recommend on Amazon.)

This size grow bag is also good for many fruits and vegetables such as kohlrabi, carrots, beets, strawberries, and celery. 

Medium grow bag (holds up to 5 gallons/19 liters of soil) is a good choice for many herbs like lemongrass, ginger, and turmeric. (These are the ones I recommend on Amazon.)

This size grow bag is also good for many vegetables such as beans, broccoli, cabbage, okra, potatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, and peppers. 

Large grow bag (holds up to 10 gallons/38 liters of soil) is a good choice for tomatoes and sweet potatoes. (These are the ones I recommend on Amazon.)

Using a grow bag larger than 10 gallons? Great! They are well-suited to most types of vegetables and can often have several different types in the same bag. Read this article on companion planting for some ideas. 

4. Fill your grow bag with the best type of soil

Regular garden soil is too heavy for grow bags; it will become compacted. The best soil for grow bags is a combination of: 

• compost
• vermiculite
• coconut coir or peat moss

Look for bagged potting soil that has a combination of these ingredients, or make your own. I use the Growing in the Garden Raised Bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm in my grow bags and raised beds. This blog post details the best soil for raised beds, which I use in grow bag gardening. 

When using this mix, the soil remains light and airy; it does not get crusted or compacted. Plants’ roots need oxygen and water, and roots love this mixture.

It is important to fill bags all the way up with soil to take advantage of the room inside the grow bag.

5. Put your grow bag in the best location

A major advantage of gardening in grow bags is the ability to put the bag in the best location based on the sunlight it receives. 

Most plants grow best with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. Morning sun is preferred, and a little afternoon shade is ideal, especially if you live in a hot climate. 

Looking for ideas on how to incorporate grow bags into your overall garden layout? See how I use containers like grow bags in my backyard garden design.

Growing in the Garden container gardening resources:

If you’re looking for more resources, I have several videos and blog posts that provide step-by-step guides, tips, and tricks for successful container gardening. I even wrote a book about container gardening, which covers everything from choosing the right containers to harvesting your first crop. You’ve got this! 

• Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Steps for Success
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening
• The Pros & Cons of Container Gardening
• The Best Way to Water Containers
• Grow Anywhere: Smart and Creative Gardening Container Ideas
• Container Gardening Playlist on YouTube
• Three Sisters Grow Bag Garden

If you enjoy container gardening, you’ll love the benefits of elevated beds—check out my guide, How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds, to learn how to get started

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

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Garden labels should be easy to see

When I’m ready to transplant my seedlings or plant my seeds in the garden, I love using these metal plant labels. See the plant labels on Amazon. I use these Sharpie markers to write on the labels.

When it’s time to plant, I label the seeds or seedlings and plant them along with the transplants.

These plant markers are easy to spot in the garden even when the plant gets large. I often have visitors in my garden, and an easy-to-see plant marker is as helpful for them as it is for me. 

The best way to label garden plants should last all season

Keeping accurate records each season is an essential part of gardening. Gardeners often learn as much (or more) from failures as successes. If labels are lost or indecipherable, it isn’t easy to document what went well (or not so well) at the end of the season. 

Wooden labels:

• absorb moisture, and writing bleeds
• often rot quickly

Plastic labels:

• easily lost or buried
• get brittle and break
• the writing often fades by the end of the season

When I use the black metal plant labels and write on them with Sharpie paint pens, they last all season (or all year).

The best way to label garden plants should be reusable

For long-lived trees and plants, I love using these aluminum labels that are easy to emboss with a ballpoint pen. Learn more about labeling trees in this guide.

However, many of my garden plants are annuals. The plants change each season. After removing the current plant, a different plant will be in that spot. Chances are you will plant a different variety of tomatoes or peppers next time and need a different label for the new type of plant.

Ideally, you should use your plant markers again next season. I love that I can paint over the labels with black paint and use them again at the end of each season. Many of these tags have been used for several years. 

If you’re looking for an easy, reusable way to label your garden plants, you can’t go wrong with these labels.

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