What This Post Covers

• What to Put Under a Raised Bed
• How Tall Should Raised Beds Be?
• How to Fill Tall Raised Beds (Over 18 Inches)
• Don’t Forget In-Bed Vermicomposting Bins
• How to Fill Raised Garden Beds With the Right Soil Mix
• First-Year Fertility Tips
• Why Soil Level Drops Over Time
• Frequently Asked Questions: How to Fill Raised Garden Beds

What to Put Under a Raised Bed

Before adding any soil, take a close look at what’s underneath your bed.

• If your yard has decorative rock, pull it back so the bed sits directly on the soil beneath.
• Plain soil? Set the bed directly on top without any issues.
• If you have Bermuda grass, line the bottom of the bed with several layers of overlapping cardboard. This helps smother the grass and prevent it from growing up into your raised bed. For even more protection, add a layer of water-permeable fabric weed barrier underneath the cardboard. The fabric allows water to drain while keeping stubborn Bermuda roots from invading your bed.

To see step-by-step methods for dealing with Bermuda grass before installing raised beds, read this guide on how to remove Bermuda grass.

Tip: I like to dig down a few inches and bury my raised beds slightly. This gives you the benefits of a raised bed—defined space, improved soil, and easier access–along with the cooler soil temperatures of in-ground gardening. This is especially helpful in hot climates.

How Tall Should Raised Beds Be?

Most of my raised beds are 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) tall, and I recommend filling them all the way to the top with high-quality raised bed mix.

If your beds are taller than that, you have the option to use filler material in the bottom. This helps reduce costs and still creates excellent growing conditions for your plants.

How to Fill Tall Raised Beds (Over 18 Inches / 45 cm)

If your raised bed is taller than 18 inches (45 cm), you don’t need to fill the entire thing with raised bed mix. You can use logs, branches, or mulch in the lower section to save on soil costs and improve long-term soil health.

This method is based on the idea of hugelkultur, which uses organic material like wood to fill the bottom portion of a raised bed. As the wood breaks down, it enriches the soil and helps retain moisture.

If you’re wondering how to fill raised garden beds without wasting soil or spending too much money, here’s what I recommend.

How Much Filler to Use

The amount of filler you use depends on the total height of your bed. You can use up to several feet of logs or branches if the bed is tall enough. The most important part is to ensure that the top 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) is filled with quality raised bed mix. That top layer is where plant roots will grow and where good soil matters most.

Quick Tip
For extra-tall beds, fill the bottom portion with natural wood like logs or branches, then top off the final 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) with high-quality raised bed soil.

What to Use

• Logs or branches from untreated, natural wood. Firewood works well.
• Coarse mulch or compost if logs are not available.

Avoid using treated lumber, plywood, or any wood that has been painted or stained. These materials can leach chemicals into the soil and harm your plants.

Mulch vs. Logs – Which Is Better?

• Logs and branches decompose slowly and hold their shape longer. They help build healthy soil over time and improve structure and moisture retention.
• Mulch or compost breaks down more quickly and works well too, but the soil will settle significantly during the first season. If you use mulch as the main filler, be prepared to add more soil sooner to keep the bed filled.

How to Fill Raised Garden Beds With the Right Soil Mix

If your raised bed is 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) tall, fill it all the way up with quality raised bed mix.

For years, I mixed my own using a combination of compost, coconut coir, perlite, worm castings, and other ingredients. You can learn how to make your own in this guide to raised bed soil.

Now I work with Arizona Worm Farm, they created a custom mix that includes:

• Organic compost
• Coconut coir
• Perlite
• Basalt rock dust
• High-quality worm castings

If you live in the Phoenix valley, it is worth the drive to pick some up, and they also offer delivery.

For gardeners outside of Arizona, look for a local supplier that offers a raised bed mix made with fresh compost, a moisture-retaining material like coir or peat, a drainage aid like perlite or vermiculite, and worm castings. These are the key ingredients to look for in a raised bed mix.

Wondering what terms like “compost” or “vermiculite” really mean? My Gardening Glossary explains practical gardening vocabulary in plain language, so you always know what to do in your garden.

Don’t Forget In-Bed Vermicomposting Bins

As you fill your beds, it’s a great time to add an in-bed worm composting bin. It’s simple to set up and gives your garden a steady supply of worm castings right where your plants need them.

Learn how to make one in this guide to in-bed worm composting. From soil amendments to watering essentials, these are my go-to garden supplies.

First-Year Fertility Tips

The first season in a new raised bed is often the hardest. Even with great compost and soil, the microbiology in your soil hasn’t had time to develop yet.

To help your plants grow well their first season, I recommend adding a balanced organic fertilizer when you plant. This gives your garden a good start while soil biology gets established.

Over time, your soil improves with each season—especially if you consistently amend with compost and worm castings. I usually do this twice a year, in spring and fall. Here’s a guide that walks through how to amend garden soil.

Why Soil Level Drops Over Time

It’s normal for the soil level in your raised bed to settle over time. That’s a good sign. It means the organic matter is being used and broken down by your plants and soil life.

Just add more compost and worm castings as needed to keep the bed full and thriving.

Frequently Asked Questions: How to Fill Raised Garden Beds

Understanding how to fill raised garden beds properly makes all the difference. With the right layers and soil care, your garden improves over time.

The post How to Fill Raised Garden Beds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

1. Examine Existing Beds
2. Evaluate the Soil
   • Why Not Till?
3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost
4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings
5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

1. Examine Existing Beds

Begin by doing a quick visual assessment of your garden beds:

• Raised Bed Condition
  • Do the sides need any repairs?
  • Are there gaps or signs of rotting wood or weakened materials?
• Irrigation Check
  • Is your watering system functioning correctly?
  • Are there any leaks, clogged emitters, or areas not receiving adequate moisture?
  • Is the coverage sufficient for all plants?

If you need to update or replace your beds, I highly recommend the metal raised beds and watering grids from Garden in Min

utes. I’ve used them in my own garden for years, and they’ve been incredibly durable and easy to maintain. Plus, the watering grids ensure even moisture for your plants. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100, or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

2. Evaluate the Soil

Once your beds are structurally sound, shift focus to the soil itself:

• Soil Level & Texture
  • Has the soil level dropped significantly? Consider whether you need to top off with fresh raised bed mix or if a layer of compost would suffice.
  • Is the soil still loose and friable? If it feels compacted or you notice a drastic change in texture, supplementing with components like coconut coir, vermiculite, or a raised bed mix that includes those may be necessary. I use the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm. Learn more about this soil mixture here.

• Weeds, Diseases & Pest History
  • Were there major weed issues, diseases, or pest infestations last season? If so, remove any remaining plant debris or weeds to prevent carry-over problems. If Bermuda grass is an issue, read this guide.

Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

• Soil Testing
  • If your garden is growing well, this step may not be necessary. But if plants have struggled or not grown well a soil test is a good way to see what is going on.
  • Soil pH & Nutrient Levels: A soil test is the best way to know precisely what amendments your garden needs. You’ll learn about nutrient deficiencies (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients) and whether pH adjustments are necessary.
  • Use a reliable, easy-to-read soil test kit or send samples to a local extension office for professional analysis. This is the soil test kit I use.
  • Follow test recommendations to address any imbalances before you plant. Learn more about how to test your soil in this guide.

Tip: Don’t till your soil. Tilling disturbs the good things that are happening in your soil!

Why Not Till?

• Preserves Soil Structure
  Tilling can break apart soil aggregates and damage fragile networks of fungi and microorganisms. Undisturbed soil holds water and nutrients more effectively.
• Protects Beneficial Organisms
  Earthworms, microbes, and other helpful creatures thrive when left undisturbed. These organisms improve soil fertility by breaking down organic matter and making nutrients available to plants.
• Reduces Weed Pressure
  Tilling can expose dormant weed seeds to sunlight, causing them to germinate. Leaving the soil undisturbed helps keep those seeds buried and less likely to sprout.
• Prevents Erosion
  Soil with a stable, undisturbed structure is less prone to wind and water erosion, helping maintain soil depth and quality over time.

By minimizing disturbance and simply layering organic matter (like compost) on top, you enhance your soil’s natural processes—resulting in healthier, more resilient garden beds.

3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost

One of the most essential steps in amending soil is adding compost. Compost is a cornerstone amendment for any garden.

• Benefits of Compost
  • Improves Soil Structure: Loosens heavy clay and helps sandy soils hold moisture.
  • Adds Nutrients: Contains essential plant nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, plus beneficial micronutrients.
  • Boosts Beneficial Organisms: Feeds microbes and earthworms that help make nutrients more available to plants.
  • Reduces Diseases & Pests: Compost can help suppress some plant diseases and pests.
  • Enhances Moisture Retention: Helps the soil hold water, reducing the need for frequent watering.
• How to Add Compost
  • Layer, Don’t Till: Spread at least one inch (2.54 cm) of compost on top of your soil. Earthworms and microbes will integrate it naturally.
  • Dealing with Mulch: If you have a thick mulch layer, pull it back, add compost, and then replace or refresh the mulch as needed.
• Which Compost to Use
  • Homemade: Homemade compost is best if you can make it. Learn how to make compost in this guide.
  • Locally Sourced: A local, trusted compost supplier is your next-best option.
  • Store-Bought: If using bagged compost, buy multiple brands for a varied nutrient profile.

4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings

Worm castings are a powerful, natural soil amendment:

• Why Use Worm Castings?
  • Naturally high in beneficial microbes and nutrients.
  • Gentle, slow release of fertility that won’t burn plants if applied correctly.
• How Much to Add
  • For established beds, apply 4 cups per 4×8 bed.
  • In new beds, aim for around 5% worm castings (11 gallons per 4×8 bed).
  • Layer them on top of the soil and lightly water them in.
• In-Bed Vermicomposting
  • Add an in-bed vermicomposting bin for an ongoing supply of worm castings directly in your raised bed. It’s a low-maintenance way of amending soil throughout the growing season. Learn how to add vermicomposting bins to your garden here.

To learn more about the benefits of worm castings, read this guide by Zach Brooks of Arizona Worm Farm.

Tip: Apply 4 cups fresh worm castings to each 4×8 raised bed each season.

5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

Although I add compost and worm castings each season, I don’t always add other amendments. You can finalize your plan for amending soil based on your soil test results. Consider these common soil amendments:

1. Biochar (link to purchase)
   • Improves soil texture and water retention.
   • It acts like a sponge, holding nutrients until plants need them.
   • It can raise pH, so be mindful if your soil is already alkaline.
2. Azomite (Rock Dust) (link to purchase)
   • Rich in minerals and trace elements that garden soil may lack.
   • Useful for amending soil that has been heavily used or depleted.
3. Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (link to purchase)
   • Beneficial for clay or compacted soils.
   • Helps loosen particles and improve drainage.
4. Blood Meal (link to purchase)
   • Quick source of nitrogen.
   • Follow label instructions to avoid over-fertilization.
5. Bone Meal (link to purchase)
   • Adds phosphorus for strong root growth and flower/fruit production.
   • Also provides calcium and some nitrogen.
6. Kelp Meal/Seaweed Extract (link to purchase)
   • Offers micronutrients, natural growth hormones, and stress resistance.
   • Great for amending soil to support seed germination and root development.
7. Green Sand or Langbeinite (link to purchase)
   • Green sand supplies potassium and micronutrients.
   • Langbeinite delivers potassium, magnesium, and sulfur—excellent if your test indicates shortages.

Even the best mix will need refreshing over time. My guide on how to fill a raised bed explains what to add initially and how to keep improving soil season after season.

If you’re looking for tools, soil amendments, seed-starting gear, or even supplies for keeping chickens, check out my carefully curated gardening supplies and tools page. It includes everything I rely on in the garden.

Tip: Always adhere to recommended application rates when amending soil, as over-amending can cause nutrient imbalances.

Final Thoughts

Taking the time at the beginning of each season to prepare garden soil before planting pays off by reducing problems later on and boosting plant performance. By layering amendments like compost and worm castings, adding specific nutrients based on a soil test, and avoiding deep tilling, you’ll keep your soil structure healthy and full of beneficial organisms.

Healthy soil is a living ecosystem. With consistent care and careful amending of soil, your garden will become more productive and resilient each season—setting the stage for vigorous plants, fewer pest problems, and delicious, abundant harvests.

If you are gardening in the low desert or another hot, dry climate, the Desert Gardening page is the best place to start. It brings together all my seasonal planting guides, tips for creating shade and managing heatwaves, and advice for protecting plants from frost. Having everything in one place makes it easy to find exactly what you need for each season.

If this post about amending your soil and preparing your garden before planting was helpful, please share it.

The post Amending Soil: Preparing Your Garden Before Planting appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

1. Spend Time in Your Garden Each Day While Watering
2. Pay Attention to the Weather
3. Understand Your Plants’ Water Needs
4. Water Less Frequently but More Deeply
5. Water in the Morning
6. Provide Consistent Water
7. The Importance of Mulching
8. Know Your Soil Type and Its Watering Needs
9. Watering New Seeds and Seedlings vs. Established Plants
10. Key Takeaways

1. Spend Time in Your Garden Each Day While Watering

Being present in your garden during watering is essential. Regardless of your watering method, paying attention to your system while it’s operating helps you spot potential problems early.

• Check for Issues: Look out for dead batteries, broken timers, leaks in lines, over-watering, or under-watering.
• Prevent Waste: Identifying problems early prevents water wastage from flooding and ensures your plants’ health isn’t compromised.

If you use an automatic watering system, program it to run when you’re usually in the garden. This way, you can monitor its performance and make adjustments as needed.

2. Pay Attention to the Weather

Weather conditions significantly affect your garden’s watering needs.

• Dry, Windy, or Hot Conditions: Plants require more water during these times.
• Seasonal Adjustments: In hot areas like Arizona, raised-bed gardens often need watering every day during summer. In cooler seasons, watering 1-2 times per week may suffice.

The transition times can be tricky. You may want to manually control how often your garden gets watered as temperatures heat up in late spring and as they cool down in the fall. Check your soil before watering and gradually increase or decrease the frequency depending on the temperature and soil.

3. Understand Your Plants’ Water Needs

Adequate moisture is essential for healthy crops. “A healthy plant is composed of 75%-90% water, which is used for the plants’ vital functions, including photosynthesis, support, and transportation of nutrients and sugars to various parts of the plant.” (Arizona Master Gardener Manual, p.180)

Signs of Under-Watering

• Brown, dry leaf edges
• Slow growth
• Leaf curl
• Wilted or dropped leaves
• Branch dieback

Note: Plants that wilt in the afternoon but recover when the sun goes down suffer from heat stress, not water stress. They may not need additional water. Check the soil before adding more water.

Signs of Over-Watering

• Soft, rotten roots, or a rotten smell
• Constantly wet soil
• Light green or yellow new growth
• Leaf curl and drop

Avoid over-watering to help plants develop heat tolerance and prevent issues like root rot and leaf drop.

4. Water Less Frequently but More Deeply

It’s better to water your garden deeply and less often than to give it frequent shallow waterings. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, making your plants stronger and more drought-resistant.

• Aim to moisten the soil to at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep.
• Figure out how long it takes to reach this depth—you might need to dig down and check.
• Use the “cycle and soak” method: water for a bit, let it soak in, then water again. This helps prevent runoff and ensures the water penetrates deeply.

Let the Soil Dry Between Waterings

Allow the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering again. Use a moisture meter or do the finger test: stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry and doesn’t stick to your finger, it’s time to water.

Occasionally, water longer to flush out salts that can build up in the soil, especially in arid regions like Arizona.

5. Water in the Morning

Watering early in the day is beneficial because plants absorb moisture more effectively in the morning. Watering in the morning also prepares them for the heat of the day and reduces the risk of fungal diseases that can develop if plants stay wet overnight.

6. Provide Consistent Water

Consistency is key when watering raised beds. Inconsistent watering can stress plants, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases like blossom end rot. An automatic watering system can help ensure your garden is watered evenly and regularly.

• Timers can be easily adjusted for seasonal changes.
• Options include soaker hoses, sprinklers, and drip lines.
• Even a simple setup with a soaker hose connected to a timer can be effective.

I’ve found that Garden Grids from Garden in Minutes offer excellent coverage for raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order. They distribute water evenly and can be easily connected to a timer. You can learn more about them in this blog post.

Ollas for Containers

Ollas (pronounced “oy-yahs”) are a great option for container plants. These are unglazed clay pots buried in the soil that slowly release water directly to the roots. While not automatic, they provide consistent moisture and are easy to use. Learn more about using ollas in containers in this blog post. I use ollas from Growoya.

Having the right tools makes gardening easier and more enjoyable. On my favorite garden supplies page, you’ll find the products I trust for soil prep, watering, seed starting, and more. These are the same tools I use in my own garden.

7. The Importance of Mulching

Mulching is a simple way to conserve soil moisture and reduce how often you need to water.

• It reduces evaporation from the soil surface.
• It helps suppress weeds that compete for water.
• As organic mulch breaks down, it improves soil structure.

Materials like straw, wood chips, or shredded leaves work well in vegetable gardens. See my guide to using mulch here.

8. Know Your Soil Type and Its Watering Needs

Understanding your soil is crucial for effective watering.

• Sandy Soils: These drain quickly and may need more frequent watering.
• Clay Soils: They hold water longer but can become waterlogged if over-watered.
• Loamy Soils: This is the ideal mix, balancing drainage and moisture retention.

How to Identify Your Soil Type

Try the squeeze test by squeezing a handful of moist soil in your hand. Once you know your soil type, you can adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

• If it falls apart when you open your hand, it’s sandy soil.
• If it holds its shape and feels sticky, it’s clay soil.
• If it holds its shape but crumbles with slight pressure, it’s loamy soil.

9. Watering New Seeds and Seedlings vs. Established Plants

Different stages of plant growth require different watering approaches.

New Seeds and Seedlings

• Shallow Roots: Need the soil to remain consistently moist.
• Frequent, Light Watering: Prevents drying out, which can be fatal at this stage. Use a hose with a sprinkler attachment to water young seeds and seedlings more often if you have established plants and seedlings in the same bed.
• Close Monitoring: Check soil moisture regularly to ensure optimal conditions.

Established Plants

• Deeper Roots: Benefit from less frequent but deeper watering.
• Encourages Strong Root Growth: Deep watering promotes a robust and healthy root system.

10. Conclusion

Learning how to water your garden correctly may take time and trial and error. But getting it right is worth the time and effort.

Key Takeaways:

• Spend time in your garden to monitor and adjust your watering practices.
• Adjust the watering frequency based on weather and seasonal changes.
• Understand the specific water needs of your plants.
• Water deeply but less frequently to promote strong root systems.
• Water in the morning to maximize absorption and minimize disease.
• Use mulch and consider soil types to improve water retention.
• Provide consistent water, especially during critical growth stages.

Additional Watering Resources:

• Learn more about the best way to water raised beds in this blog post.
• For more on garden grids, visit Garden in Minutes.
• To learn more about using ollas, visit Growoya.

If this post about how to water your vegetable garden was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Water Your Garden appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

• Why Consistent Watering is the Best Way to Water Raised Beds
• The Importance of Automatic Watering Systems in Dry Climates
• Choosing the Best Type of Automatic Watering System
• My Journey to Finding the Best Watering Method
• Discovering the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes
• Why the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes is the Best Choice
• Implementing Best Watering Practices
• The Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens

Why Consistent Watering is the Best Way to Water Raised Beds

Consistency is key in gardening. Inconsistent watering causes seeds and seedlings to dry out and die, stresses established plants, and invites pests and diseases. Especially in arid regions like the low desert of Arizona, where rainfall is scarce, consistent watering becomes even more critical. Regular moisture ensures optimal soil conditions, promoting deep roots and overall plant health.

The Importance of Automatic Watering Systems in Dry Climates

An automatic watering system is the best way to water raised bed gardens in areas with limited rainfall. It ensures that plants receive the right amount of water at the right time without waiting for a busy gardener. Missing even one watering session in a dry climate can kill many plants in your garden. Automatic systems help maintain consistent soil moisture levels, promote growth, and reduce stress (mine and the plants!).

Save Water and Money

Watering can be a significant expense, especially in dry regions. Automatic watering systems, particularly drip irrigation, deliver water directly to the plant roots, minimizing evaporation and runoff. This targeted approach conserves water, reduces utility bills, and supports sustainable gardening practices. Get more water-saving tips in this guide.

Choosing the Best Type of Automatic Watering System

Several options are available, but not all are equally effective for raised bed gardens.

• Soaker Hoses: These often get clogged, crack over time, and don’t distribute water evenly across the bed.
• Sprinklers: While easy to use, sprinklers wet the foliage, which can encourage and spread diseases. They also lead to excess evaporation and inefficient watering.
• Drip Lines: Standard drip irrigation systems can be messy and prone to damage. They may not stay in place and often require complex installation.

My Journey to Finding the Best Watering Method

I experimented with various drip irrigation systems but struggled to achieve even watering in the entire raised bed. Even after watering for a long time, there would be dry spots, while other areas had too much water. The components were expensive, and I often accidentally cut the drip lines while digging. Spaghetti-type drip lines were messy and didn’t always stay in place. Frustrated with these ineffective solutions, I wished there was a better way.

Discovering the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes

When I first saw the Garden Grid on Instagram in 2017, I realized it solved two significant problems: my messy, ineffective drip lines and the need for grids for square-foot gardening. Previously, I used wood slats to divide my beds, which made amending the soil difficult. The Garden Grid was revolutionary. It provided:

• Even Water Distribution: Pre-drilled holes ensure consistent watering in every part of the bed.
• Simplified Square-Foot Gardening: The grid layout makes planting and organization simple.
• Easy Installation and Maintenance: The system is durable, and it’s easy to lift off the bed when adding compost or other soil amendments.

I added the first grid to my garden in 2017 and slowly incorporated them into my older beds. Any new beds I add now always include the Garden Grid. They’ve even started making garden beds that come with the grids, which is now all I use when I add new beds. Read this post to see if metal beds heat up more than wooden beds.

Exclusive Discount: Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

Get Your Garden Grid™ Here

I also use the metal raised beds from Garden In Minutes®, which include the Garden Grid™.

Check Out the Metal Raised Beds Here

Why the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes is the Best Choice

After experimenting with various drip line systems and trying to make my own watering grids (they wouldn’t lay flat and were crooked), the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes stands out as the best way to water raised bed gardens. Here’s why:

1. Even and Efficient Water Distribution

Each grid has pre-drilled holes along the tubing, ensuring that every part of your raised bed receives water evenly. This eliminates dry spots and over-saturated areas. This is especially helpful for seed germination.

2. Easy Integration with Automatic Timers

Connecting the Garden Grids to an automatic timer is simple, allowing you to customize watering schedules based on your garden’s needs and weather conditions. You can see the video I did about adding the grids to my yard’s sprinkler system and Racchio timer here:

3. Quick and Tool-Free Installation

The grids come preassembled and can be installed in minutes without any tools. This simplicity makes it accessible for gardeners of all experience levels.

4. Ideal for Square-Foot Gardening

The Garden Grid divides your garden into evenly spaced square sections, perfect for practicing square-foot gardening. This method helps with plant organization and maximizes the use of space without the need for wood slats or other dividers. Learn more about square-foot gardening techniques in this guide.

5. Durable and Low Maintenance

Unlike traditional drip lines that can be easily damaged while digging or planting, the Garden Grid is sturdy and remains in place. It’s also easy to remove when you need to amend the soil.

6. Adjustable Water Flow

Adding a flow valve to each bed allows you to adjust the water flow into individual beds easily. This allows for customization based on water pressure and the specific water needs of different plants.

Implementing Best Watering Practices

To maximize the benefits of your automatic watering system:

• Monitor Soil Moisture: Even with an automatic system, regularly check soil moisture to ensure your plants get the right amount of water.
• Adjust for Weather Conditions: Modify your watering schedule based on rainfall and temperature changes to prevent overwatering or underwatering.
• Maintain Your System: Periodically inspect your drip lines or grids for clogs or damage to keep the system running efficiently. If a hole gets clogged, unclogging it with a push pin is easy.

The Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens

Investing in an automatic drip irrigation system like the Garden Grid is the best way to water raised bed gardens. It ensures consistent, efficient watering, leading to healthier plants and more bountiful harvests. Especially in arid regions like Arizona’s low desert, this approach saves water, reduces costs, and supports sustainable gardening.

Shop the Garden Grid™ at Garden In Minutes®

Save Now: Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

If this post about the best way to water raised beds was helpful, please share it.

The post The Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What to Feed Worms Outline:

• What do the worms in your in-bed vermicomposting bins eat?
• Perfect Worm Food
• Feed Worms These in Moderation
• What to Avoid Feeding Worms
• Tips for Feeding Worms
• Composting and Fertilizing Resources on This Website

Check out this helpful video for a visual overview of how to feed worms.

What do the Red Wiggler worms in your in-bed vermicomposting bins eat?

Worms in your vermicomposting bin break down various organic materials, transforming them into nutrient-dense worm castings that benefit your soil. Here’s a breakdown of the best foods for worms, items that should be fed in moderation, and those to avoid.

Perfect In-Bed Vermicomposting Worm Food:

• Fruits and Vegetables: Watermelon, bananas, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, beans, pears, carrots, cherries, grapes, peaches, spinach, cucumbers, cabbage, celery, mangoes, tomatoes, and corn.
• Paper Products: Cardboard, shredded paper, and egg cartons.

These items break down easily and provide a balanced diet that worms love. Fruits, vegetables, and cardboard offer essential nutrients, moisture, and bulk that worms need for digestion and healthy composting.

Some of my favorite things to feed my worms include:

• Bird pecked peaches
• Spent roselle tea after steeping
• Spent okra after making okra water
• Sweet potato peelings
• Leftover pulp from making celery juice
• Amazon boxes. This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).

What to Feed Worms in Moderation:

• Starchy Foods: Bread, potatoes, pasta, rice, and other starchy foods.

These items can be added occasionally but should be limited. Too much starch can create an unbalanced environment in the bin, leading to odors or slowing down the composting process.

What to Avoid Feeding Worms:

• Citrus fruits: Lemons, oranges, limes, and other citrus can create an overly acidic environment.
• Meat, bones, dairy, and eggs (crushed shells are okay): These items can attract pests and take too long to break down.
• Processed, salty, or greasy foods: They are difficult for worms to digest and can harm the bin’s ecosystem.
• Pet waste: Contains harmful bacteria and pathogens.

Tips for Feeding Red Wiggler Worms in In-Bed Vermicomposting Bins:

To keep your worms happy, follow these best practices:

1. Balance Greens and Browns Each Time You Feed
   For every batch of food you add, aim to add equal amounts of “greens” (moist food scraps) and “browns” (dry carbon-rich materials). This helps maintain the right conditions.
   • Greens: Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, and crushed eggshells.
   • Browns: Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, and shredded paper.
2. Feed Worms Once a Week
   Plan to feed your worms about once per week. Ensure the previous scraps are mostly consumed before adding new food. If you use wood chips to cover your bins, the level will drop, and you’ll know it’s time for more food.
3. Chop or Blend Food Scraps
   Smaller pieces of food break down faster, making it easier for worms to consume.
4. Cover Food Scraps with Browns
   After adding food scraps, cover them with a layer of browns, such as dry leaves, wood chips, or cardboard. This helps prevent odors and keeps fruit flies away.
5. Monitor and Remove Uneaten Food
   Remove any large pieces of uneaten food. Note what your worms are and aren’t eating to adjust future feedings.
6. Maintain Moisture Levels
   The interior of the bin should feel damp but not too wet. If the bin feels dry, lightly spray it with water or a hose to maintain moisture.
7. Cover the Bin Properly After Feeding Worms
   After feeding, cover the bin with a thick layer of wood chips or replace the lid. This helps retain moisture and keeps pests out.

By following these simple guidelines for feeding your worms in your in-bed vermicomposting bins, they will stay healthy and continue producing rich worm castings for your garden.

Composting and Fertilizing Resources on This Website:

• Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
• Frequently Asked Questions About In-Bed Vermicomposting
• How to Compost: 10 Steps to Make it Simple
• Why Add Worms to Your Garden: The Benefits of Worm Castings
• Worm Casting Tea: How and Why to Make It

Source:

The Squirm Farm: What Can Red Wiggler Worms Eat Infographic

If this post about What to Feed Worms in Your In-Bed Vermicomposting Bins was helpful, please share it.

The post What to Feed Worms in Worm Bins appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

• Why Soil Quality is Essential for Raised Beds
• The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix
• What is in Mel’s Mix?
• Arizona Worm Farm Raised Bed Mix
• Advantages of Using Mel’s Mix for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening
• How to Combine the Ingredients for Mel’s Mix
• Maintaining Your Raised Bed Soil

Why Soil Quality is Essential for Raised Beds

Raised beds offer numerous advantages, but success depends mainly on the soil quality you use. Here’s why soil quality is so important:

• Better Drainage: Good raised bed soil improves drainage while ensuring that plants still get the needed moisture.
• Root Growth: Loamy, well-aerated soil encourages roots to spread and access nutrients.
• Nutrient Availability: Nutrient-rich soil is vital for healthy plant growth and productive harvests.
• Soil Structure: The right blend of organic matter and aeration helps create a loose, crumbly texture that plants thrive in.

Good soil is the foundation—but layout matters too. See how my garden beds, containers, and fruit trees fit together in a cohesive design.

If you’re wondering what the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is, the answer is simple—Mel’s Mix.

The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix

I didn’t come up with this mix; we can thank Mel Bartholomew, the author of Square Foot Gardening, for developing a simple, effective soil blend for raised bed gardening. After reading his book in 2008, I followed his advice for making Mel’s Mix, which he calls “the most important, productive, essential, necessary, critical” ingredient for square-foot gardening success—and it worked!

Mel’s Mix is a tried-and-true solution for raised beds, providing an ideal balance of moisture retention, aeration, and nutrient availability.

What is in Mel’s Mix?

Regular garden soil is too dense for raised bed gardening. Mel’s Mix solves that problem by combining compost, coco coir, and vermiculite to keep the soil light and airy. This blend provides excellent drainage and a healthy environment for plant roots. Here’s the breakdown:

• One part compost: You can make your compost, or if you live in Arizona, the compost from Arizona Worm Farm is a great option. If you use bagged compost, it’s best to mix several different types.
• One part coco coir: A sustainable alternative to peat moss that retains moisture and improves soil structure.
• One part vermiculite or perlite: These materials help with soil aeration and moisture retention.
• 3-5% worm castings: About 1/3 gallon per cubic foot adds beneficial microbes and nutrients. Make your own with in-bed vermicomposting bins or purchase them locally if possible.
• 1/2 cup basalt dust per cubic foot adds trace minerals that benefit plant health.

Depending on your needs, you can also adjust the mix by using up to 50% compost and 25% each of vermiculite and coco coir.

Arizona Worm Farm Raised Bed Mix

In the Fall of 2020, Arizona Worm Farm began offering a ready-made soil mix called “Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix.” This mix contains the perfect blend of compost, coco coir, vermiculite, worm castings, and basalt dust. It’s available by the bag or yard. This premixed soil is an easy, convenient option for anyone looking for the best soil for raised beds in the Phoenix area.

Advantages of Using Mel’s Mix for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

Mel’s Mix offers several distinct advantages that make it the best choice for raised bed vegetable gardening:

• Simplified Drainage: The combination of vermiculite and coco coir ensures excellent water retention while preventing waterlogging. The soil absorbs moisture, and excess moisture easily drains away when saturated. You can’t overwater with this mix!
• Easy Seed Germination: Seeds germinate quickly in this light, airy mixture, making it ideal for direct sowing in raised beds.
• Minimal Weeds: One of Mel’s Mix’s biggest benefits is its weed-free nature. Since the soil stays light and loose, weeds have difficulty establishing themselves.
• Oxygen for Roots: Healthy roots need both oxygen and water. Mel’s Mix’s light texture allows plant roots to access both, leading to vigorous growth.

How to Combine the Ingredients for Mel’s Mix

There are a couple of ways to mix the ingredients for the best soil for raised bed gardening:

1. Batch Mixing on a Tarp: Spread a tarp on the ground and combine the compost, coco coir, and vermiculite in batches. Once everything is mixed, dump the contents into your raised bed and water thoroughly.
2. Layering in the Raised Bed: You can layer the ingredients directly in the raised bed, mixing well after each addition. This “lasagna style” approach is convenient and works just as well.

It’s a good idea to mix up a little extra of Mel’s Mix to fill containers or top off your raised beds throughout the season. Store it in a large, lidded garbage can for easy access.

Maintaining Your Raised Bed Soil

Over time, the soil level in your raised beds will decrease as the organic matter breaks down. Adding more compost each time you plant is important to keep the soil level topped up and maintain its nutrient content.

• Compost: As the compost decomposes, it enriches the soil with essential nutrients. Keep adding compost to your raised beds with each planting cycle to maintain healthy, nutrient-rich soil. For more information on how to make your compost, check out my composting guide.
• No Need to Replace Coco Coir and Vermiculite: Unlike compost, coco coir and vermiculite don’t break down as quickly, so you won’t need to replenish these components each season. Just focus on adding fresh compost.
• Add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your beds. Worms break down food scraps and create nutrient-rich worm castings right in your garden bed. Read this in-bed vermicomposting guide to learn how to add these bins to your beds.

Using the right mix and maintaining your soil over time ensures that your raised beds remain productive for years. Whether you mix your own or opt for a premade option like Arizona Worm Farm’s Raised Bed Mix, getting the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening will give you healthier plants, fewer weeds, and bigger harvests.

When you are ready to build new beds, learn step-by-step how to fill a raised bed with the right soil and amendments.

For more soil resources on my blog, read these articles:

• How to Prepare Your Soil For Planting
• How to Refresh Old Potting Soil
• Soil Testing: When and How to Test Your Soil

If this article about the best soil for raised beds was helpful, please share it.

The post Choosing the Best Soil for Raised Bed Gardening appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If the plant in the container struggled with pests or disease, it’s best to dispose of the soil, clean out the container, and begin with fresh potting soil.

Article Outline:

1. Empty Soil Onto a Tarp or Wheelbarrow
2. Remove Old Plant Material
3. Loosen and Water the Soil
4. Mix in Fresh Worm Castings
5. Incorporate Organic Fertilizers
6. Add New Potting Mix
7. Fill Containers Back Up

1. Empty Old Potting Soil Onto a Tarp or Wheelbarrow

The first step in refreshing old potting soil is to dump out the existing contents of the container onto the tarp or into a wheelbarrow.

Once the soil is out, it’s a good time to clean the inside of the container with a stiff brush and ensure the drainage holes are not blocked. Rinse it well and let it dry in the sun. Also, scrub off any ollas. Clean ollas will wick water more efficiently.

2. Remove Old Plant Material

Removing old plant material is the next step in reinvigorating old container soil. This includes pulling out spent plants, roots, and any debris left in the soil.

NOTE: If there isn’t much soil left after the plant material is gone, it may be best to start over with high-quality potting soil.

3. Loosen and Water the Soil

Over time, container soil can become compacted, making it harder for roots to grow and for the soil to hold water and nutrients. Compacted soil can also turn hydrophobic, repelling moisture instead of absorbing it. To fix this, gently break up the soil with a hand trowel or garden fork. Aerating the soil improves its structure, making it easier for roots to spread and water to absorb and drain properly. Finally, water the soil thoroughly, giving it time to hydrate fully.

4. Mix in Fresh Worm Castings to Refresh Old Potting Soil

After cleaning out and loosening the soil, it’s time to mix in fresh worm castings. I use in-bed vermicomposting bins, and the harvested castings are free! Worm castings, in particular, are an excellent way to refresh old potting soil. They are rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes that help improve soil health and support plant growth. Learn more about the benefits of worm castings in this blog post. The ideal amount is about 5% worm castings in the soil. You can also add some fresh compost to the spent potting soil.

5. Incorporate Organic Fertilizers to Refresh Old Potting Soil

Add some balanced organic fertilizer to refresh your old potting soil. Used container soil is often devoid of nutrients because they are rinsed out of the soil each time you water. This is the one I like to use, but any balanced organic fertilizer will work. Use the least expensive one you can find. The back of the package should tell you the correct amount to add to your soil.

6. Add New Potting Mix

The final step to refresh old potting soil is to mix in some fresh potting mix. I like to add an equal amount of fresh soil to the old soil. This helps ensure plenty of perlite, coconut coir, or other moisture-holding ingredients essential for container gardening soil. I use the Raised Bed Mix from Arizona Worm Farm in all my raised beds and containers. Learn more in this blog post.

If you are not sure which tools and products are worth it, I put together a list of my favorite garden supplies. From soil amendments to everyday essentials, these are tried-and-true items that help me keep my garden thriving.

7. Fill Containers Back Up

Add the refreshed potting soil to the clean container. Fill the container all the way up with soil. Don’t add fillers like rocks. Containers naturally limit the size of roots, so giving plants access to as much soil as possible is essential.

Additional Container Gardening Resources on My Blog:

• How to Plant Pots, Tips for Container Gardening
• The Pros and Cons of Container Gardening
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Tips for Success
• 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

If this post about how to refresh old potting soil was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Refresh Old Potting Soil and Save Money appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

Why Save Water?

1. Collect and Use Rainwater
2. Incorporate Swales and Berms in Your Yard
3. Mulch and Amend the Soil to Save Water in the Desert
4. Water Deeply, Less Often
5. Use Drip Irrigation to Save Water in Your Desert Garden
6. Create Microclimates and Group Plants According to Water Needs
7. Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants for Your Desert Garden
8. Eliminate Unused Grass to Conserve Water
9. Be Thoughtful About Summer Watering to Save Water
10. Water at the Right Time

Why Save Water?

• Environmental Sustainability – Water is scarce in desert regions and often comes from limited groundwater supplies. Reducing water usage contributes to the preservation of natural ecosystems.
• Financial Savings – Conserving water means lower water bills. 
• Resilience to Droughts – Desert climates are prone to droughts. Adopting water-saving techniques ensures that your garden can withstand dry spells.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

10 Water-Saving Tips for Desert Gardening:

1. Collect and Use Rainwater

Strategically place buckets, wagons, and garbage cans where they can collect water during a storm. Open up your compost bins during rainstorms. Be creative and find ways to use rainwater.

“A half an inch of rain will deliver more than a half a gallon per square foot of surface.” (Gardening With Less Water). Take advantage of that water by installing gutters and rain barrels. This water can be used to irrigate your plants. Harvesting rainwater helps your garden become more self-sufficient. Learn more in this blog post.

Consider installing more sophisticated rainwater harvesting systems equipped with pumps and filters to store larger volumes of rainwater for irrigation purposes.

This 1100-gallon rain barrel has an internal pump and filter connected to my drip system. When water is available, I use it to water my garden and yard. Additionally, If you can access flood irrigation, learn more about using irrigation water to water your garden in this blog post.

2. Incorporate Swales and Berms in Your Yard

Direct rainwater with gutters and then create swales (shallow ditches) and berms (mounds of soil) in your landscape to capture rainwater and direct it towards your plants, allowing it to soak into the soil rather than runoff.

Gutters on my house feed into PVC lines that direct rain runoff to various swales within berms in my yard near fruit trees. Rather than running down my driveway, the water seeps deep into the ground near the trees’ roots and encourages deep root growth.

3. Mulch and Amend the Soil to Save Water in the Desert

Apply organic mulch around plants and trees to reduce evaporation, suppress weeds, and retain soil moisture. Adding compost and organic matter enhances soil structure and water retention, improving plant health and reducing water requirements. Learn more about mulching in this blog post and how to compost in this blog post.

4. Water Deeply, Less Often

Watering plants deeply but less frequently encourages deeper root growth as the water penetrates further into the soil. This deep root growth enables plants to access moisture more effectively, reducing their dependence on frequent watering.

5. Use Drip Irrigation to Save Water in Your Desert Garden

Utilize drip irrigation systems with adjustable emitters to deliver water directly to the root zones of plants, minimizing water loss through evaporation and runoff. Plants can absorb more water, reducing overall water usage compared to less efficient methods like sprinklers or hand watering.

I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. (Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.) For more tips on watering raised beds check out this guide.

More Water-Saving Tips for Desert Gardening

6. Create Microclimates and Group Plants According to Water Needs

Plants in microclimates or grouped areas can create a more humid and sheltered environment, which reduces evaporation. This means water stays in the soil longer, benefiting the plants and minimizing the need for frequent watering.

Group plants with similar water requirements together to optimize irrigation efficiency and avoid overwatering. By grouping plants with similar water needs, you can water them appropriately without overwatering or underwatering. This targeted approach ensures that each plant receives the right amount of water, reducing overall water consumption.

7. Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants for Your Desert Garden

Opt for native or drought-resistant plant species that are well-suited to the local climate and require less water once established. For ideas for desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert.

8. Eliminate Unused Grass to Conserve Water

Grass lawns typically require frequent watering to stay green and healthy. Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

By removing unused grass areas and replacing them with drought-tolerant landscaping options such as native plants or low-water-use ground covers, you significantly reduce the water needed for irrigation. Learn more in this blog post.

9. Be Thoughtful About Summer Watering to Save Water

Consider putting small containers away during the summer; they require frequent watering and dry out quickly. Add low-water-use cover crops to beds to cover the soil, reduce evaporation, and keep the soil alive rather than high-water-use plants that may struggle. Use tools like a moisture meter or a soil probe to assess when plants need water, preventing both underwatering and unnecessary watering.

Learn more tips for effective watering strategies during the summer in this blog post.

10. Water at the Right Time

Water your garden in the morning or the evening when temperatures are cooler to reduce evaporation losses. Avoid watering during windy conditions, leading to uneven water distribution and further evaporation. The best time to water is when the plants are most likely to absorb the water, usually in the early morning or late evening.

In conclusion, practicing water conservation in desert gardening isn’t just about saving water—it’s about creating a sustainable and resilient garden that thrives in harmony with its environment. Implementing these water-saving tips for desert gardening reduces your ecological footprint and enhances your garden’s beauty and productivity. Let’s work together to ensure that our gardens flourish while respecting the limited water resources of our desert landscapes.

Remember, every drop counts!

If this post about water-saving tips for desert gardening was helpful, please share it.

The post 10 Water-Saving Tips for Desert Gardening appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The more I gardened, however, I wanted to know (not guess!) what was going on in my soil. I first saw the MySoil Test Kits on Instagram and thought they looked simple and inexpensive enough to try soil testing.

I sent my first test kit to MySoil in 2020, and I’ve used it to test my soil ever since. The soil testing process is simple and quick. I get my results back within a few days with recommendations about what my soil needs. 

Now, I test my soil at the beginning of our growing seasons (early spring and fall) and give my soil what it actually needs rather than what I think it needs. 

When to Test Your Soil

We ask a lot of our garden soil. Plants need to sprout, grow, and produce a harvest within a few weeks or months. “A healthy garden starts with healthy soil.” Testing your soil takes the guesswork out of what your soil needs.

Plants may give you signs that nutrient levels are not ideal, including:

• Purple leaves are likely due to a phosphorus deficiency.
• Yellow leaves with green veining may mean a lack of iron.
• Green leaves with yellow centers can mean many things, including a lack of nitrogen.

Good times to test your soil include:

• At the beginning of each season.
• Mid-season to check on nutrient levels before fertilizing.
• If your garden is not performing well.

A soil test will confirm your suspicions and/or give you a clearer picture of what exactly is happening with your soil. Armed with this information, you can successfully treat the “root of the problem,” not just the symptoms.

How to Test Your Soil in 5 Simple Steps

1. Decide how many kits you need and order them

If the same soils are used across your garden with similar management, then you may just need one kit.

If you have different soils (in-ground vs. raised beds, fruit trees, etc.) or different ages of soils (older vs. newer areas), you may need to split each area into its own testing zone. 

For example, my garden has three different sections of raised beds that were added at three different times and a large in-ground area. As such, I use four kits for my garden.

You can order kits through the MySoil website or on Amazon. For more tried-and-true tools and products, explore my favorite garden supplies.

2. Collect and mail the soil sample(s)

Complete the process of collecting samples separately for each testing area. If you are testing more than one area, label the registration form, so you know which test goes with which area. 

• Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box, then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.

• Fill the included scoop (level) with the thoroughly-mixed sample.
• Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule.

• Tighten the lid and put the filled jar in the provided prepaid mailing envelope.
• Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office. 

3. Register your kit(s) and create account

Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test.

Check your email for a notification that your test is ready (mine went to spam, so check spam if you don’t see it within a few days). Sign in to your customer portal and view your report(s) in your dashboard.

4. Review the test results

Each report includes a bar graph with a quick view of your results.

The report shows if any of the nutrients in your soil are either within, below, or above the optimal range. There are results for the soil nutrient availability, pH, and the macro and micronutrients.

The next time you test your soil, you can compare the results to the previous test to see how your soil is improving/changing over time. 

5. Follow the fertilizer, pH, and micronutrient recommendations

In addition to your results, the report will show the recommended actions to take to improve your soil’s nutrient level or pH level. You can see the products they recommend along with application rates.

Plants need several nutrients to grow well​. These nutrients are normally divided into two groups: macronutrients and micronutrients. 

The macronutrients needed by plants are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. 

Some common micronutrients needed by plants are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Micronutrients are just as important as macronutrients, just needed in smaller amounts. 

With your report in hand, you can make informed decisions about which amendments to add and how much to use. It’s best to work recommended products into the soil before planting. 

If you enjoyed this post about when and how to test your soil, please share it:

The post Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil appeared first on Growing In The Garden.