Learn from my vegetable gardening mistakes and avoid making your own. What lessons have you learned in the garden? Share in the comments below, and let’s learn together.

“You must learn from the mistakes of others. You can’t possibly live long enough to make them all yourself.”

Samuel Levenson

What We Will Cover

• Starting Too Big
• Choosing a bad location for your garden
• Thinking soil doesn’t matter
• Planting at the wrong time
• Planting too many seeds and transplants
• Improper watering techniques
• Not mulching your garden​
• Not spending time in the garden each day​
• Using pesticides in your garden ​(even organic ones)
• Not harvesting often enough
• Frequently Asked Questions About Common Gardening Mistakes

1. Starting too big

Many people think they need to fill every inch of their yard with garden beds before they can start gardening. It feels overwhelming, and too often that feeling stops them from starting at all. This is one of the most common mistakes I see when helping others begin their vegetable gardens.

You’ve probably heard the saying, “The only way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time.” The same is true for gardening. You don’t have to do everything at once. Start with one garden bed. Focus on learning and growing in that space, then add more as you gain confidence and experience.

Having a plan for your overall garden area is helpful, but starting small is even more important. If you’re looking for inspiration or layout ideas, this guide can help you design a garden space that grows with you.

2. Choosing a bad location for your garden

No amount of gardening skill can overcome a lack of sunlight and water in the garden.

• Vegetables grown in the shade are often less productive and also more prone to insect damage and disease.
• Without easy access to water, watering your garden is inconvenient and you are less likely to do it on a regular schedule. 

Choose a garden area that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight (preferably morning sun) and has easy access to water to give your garden the best chance to be successful.

3. Thinking soil doesn’t matter

Garden soil is more than just dirt. Dirt lacks microbes and beneficial nutrients, and it’s sandy, rocky, and without substance. On the other hand, soil is full of life. Plants access the water, air, and nutrients needed to survive through the soil. 

We ask a lot of garden soil. We expect plants to sprout, grow, flower, and produce fruit in a relatively short amount of time. Good soil is the foundation for a healthy and productive garden. These articles may be helpful, “Best Soil for Raised Beds” and “Get Your Soil Ready for Planting”. 

4. Planting at the wrong time

When you begin gardening, there are new terms to learn: cool-season crops, warm-season crops, annual, perennial, frost date, days to harvest, direct sowing, and more. Rather than trying to interpret all the information and hope for the best, learn from the wisdom of experienced gardeners.

Find a planting calendar meant for your area. Following a trusted planting guide takes the guesswork out of when to plant. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, these are the planting guides I use. 

5. Planting too many seeds and transplants

Overcrowding plants prohibits airflow, blocks sunlight, and promotes pests and disease. This is the vegetable-gardening mistake I am guilty of most often. I want to plant “all the things!”

It is important to understand the mature size and spacing needs of each plant (this information is usually on the seed packet) and allow enough room for mature plants. This article may be helpful, “Plant Spacing in Square-Foot Gardens”. 

6. Improper watering techniques ​

Incorrect watering causes many common problems in plants. 

• Watering plants too much or too little.
• Watering at the wrong time of day.
• Giving your plants shallow frequent water instead of root-stretching deep drinks.

This article, “Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens”, may help you understand correct watering principles. I water with these Garden Grids.

7. Not mulching your garden​

For years, I didn’t fully understand the importance of mulching. I even wrote about it before I was consistently doing it in my own garden.

Once I started mulching regularly, I couldn’t believe the difference. It became a turning point in my gardening success, especially in Arizona’s hot, dry climate.

Unmulched soil dries out faster, needs more frequent watering, and struggles with weeds and temperature swings. Adding mulch helps regulate soil temperature, conserve moisture, and suppress weeds. Over time, it builds healthier soil by feeding microbes, attracting earthworms, and preventing compaction and erosion.

Now, I consider mulch a non-negotiable. It’s one of the easiest ways to support your garden, no matter the season. Learn more about mulching in this blogpost.

8. Not spending time in the garden each day​

If you are an infrequent visitor to your garden, small problems (such as watering, pests, and disease) may get out of control and become difficult to manage. When you make a habit of spending time in your garden each day, you are more likely to notice issues while they are small and easily contained.

Wondering what to do when you visit your garden each day? I have a blogpost all about it.

9. Using pesticides in your garden ​(even organic ones)

Pesticides don’t discriminate. When you spray for pests, you often end up harming the good guys too, like pollinators and beneficial insects that help maintain a natural balance in your garden.

A healthy garden relies on biodiversity. Bees, ladybugs, lacewings, parasitic wasps, and others play important roles in pest control and pollination. Removing them with broad treatments can lead to more problems, not fewer.

Even organic sprays should be used with a light hand, and only when truly necessary.

Organic gardening practices aren’t just better for you and the environment, they’re better for your plants, too. A thriving garden starts with healthy soil, plant diversity, and observation, not quick fixes.

Learn more about organic gardening principles in this blog post.

10. Not harvesting often enough

Leaving ripe vegetables on the plant tells it that its job is done. When a plant thinks it has successfully produced seeds, it slows down or stops making more.

Frequent harvesting, on the other hand, encourages continued production. The more you pick, the more your plants will grow.

Getting to the point where your vegetables are ready to harvest is a big deal. Celebrate by picking them regularly and enjoying the fruits of your labor. It’s one of the best parts of gardening.

Frequently Asked Questions About Common Gardening Mistakes

If you learned something from this article about common vegetable gardening mistakes, please share it.

The post 10 Biggest Vegetable Gardening Mistakes appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The information in this blog post about citrus growing mistakes is for citrus planted in the ground in warm climates that can grow citrus outdoors year round. If you live in a cooler climate, read this article about how to grow citrus in containers.

Article Index:

1. Planting a Tree Without Sampling the Fruit
2. Planting Citrus at the Wrong Time
3. Choosing a Tree That’s Too Large for the Space
4. Planting the Citrus Tree Too Deeply
5. Amending the Planting Hole with Compost or Rich Soil
6. Watering Incorrectly
7. Skirting and Over-Pruning Citrus Trees
8. Not Fertilizing Citrus Trees
9. Exposing Citrus Bark to Direct Sunlight
10. Neglecting to Harvest Fruit

Mistake #1: Planting a Tree Without Sampling the Fruit

With so many citrus varieties available, choosing one you’ll truly enjoy is important. Whenever possible, sample the fruit—this is a major advantage of buying from local growers, who often have mature trees you can taste from. Ask yourself questions like: Does the fruit have seeds? Do I like the flavor and sweetness level? Because citrus trees are long-lived and can produce hundreds of pounds of fruit, pick a variety you’ll love for years to come.

Need help to choose? This article talks about 30 different varieties of citrus. Some oranges are best for juicing, and others are best eaten fresh. Still can’t decide? This article may help you decide which type of citrus tree to plant.  

Mistake #2: Planting Citrus at the Wrong Time

Citrus trees are sensitive to frost, so wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting. In hot climates—such as the low desert of Arizona—avoid waiting too long in the spring; planting earlier gives roots time to establish before extreme summer heat arrives. Citrus roots grow and develop quickly in spring, making this an ideal planting season.

In the low desert, do not plant citrus from June through mid-September, as the intense heat hinders a young tree’s ability to establish. A second planting window in the fall is possible, but newly planted citrus will be more vulnerable to frost. If cold weather threatens, protect young trees with frost coverings. Learn more about protecting citrus from frost in this guide.

Finally, be an informed buyer. Even if local retailers carry citrus year-round, planting outside the recommended window can stunt growth and reduce the tree’s long-term health.

Mistake #3: Choosing a Tree That’s Too Large for the Space

When choosing a citrus tree, picking one that will fit your available space at maturity is crucial. Over-planting can lead to crowded trees with restricted sunlight and poor airflow, which invite pests and diseases.

• Account for Mature Size
  Ensure there’s enough distance from buildings, fences, and property lines. While young citrus trees may seem small, they can grow much larger than you might expect.
• Consider Dwarf Varieties
  Dwarf citrus trees produce fruit that’s just as large and flavorful as standard trees but yield about half as much. They’re often the best choice for home growers with limited space.
  • Dwarf varieties typically reach 10–12 ft (3–3.7 m) tall and 9–11 ft (2.7–3.4 m) wide.
• Semi-Dwarf Trees
  A good option if you want more fruit than a dwarf tree provides yet have less space than a standard tree requires.
  • Semi-dwarfs usually grow 12–15 ft (3.7–4.6 m) tall and 12–15 ft (3.7–4.6 m) wide.
• Standard-Size Trees
  Standard varieties can become quite large and need ample room to thrive.
  • Expect heights of 20–25 ft (6–7.6 m) and widths of 16–18 ft (4.9–5.5 m), depending on the variety.

Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeply

One of the most common pitfalls when growing citrus is planting the tree too deeply. Citrus trees are typically grafted onto a specific rootstock, and the graft union (where the rootstock meets the scion) must remain above the soil line. Burying the graft union can lead to rot, disease, and the proliferation of rootstock suckers—issues that ultimately compromise the health and productivity of your tree. To avoid these problems:

Prevent Lifetime Issues: Planting too deeply can result in a lifetime of problems such as disease, pest infestations, reduced fruit production, and eventually, tree death.

Identify the Graft: Examine the trunk to locate the graft, which should remain visible above the soil line.

Check Before Purchasing: Dig gently around the soil in a nursery pot to ensure the root ball is near the surface and hasn’t been “buried” in extra soil.

Plant at the Right Depth: Position the root ball so it’s level with or slightly above the surrounding ground, rather than matching the pot’s soil level.

Dig a Proper Hole: Make the hole as deep as the root ball (no deeper) but 3–5 times wider.

Mistake #5: Amending the Planting Hole with Compost or Rich Soil

When planting a citrus tree, it’s best to backfill the hole with the same native soil you removed. Adding compost or other nutrient-rich material directly into the hole can create a “comfort zone” where roots have everything they need in one small area, resulting in a smaller root system and a weaker tree overall.

By using native soil, you encourage the roots to spread outward in search of nutrients, which helps build a stronger, more extensive root system. If you want to improve soil health, apply compost or worm castings on top of the soil around the planting area. This way, nutrients are distributed more evenly, promoting root growth beyond the immediate planting hole. Learn more about the benefits of worm castings in this guide.

Mistake #6: Watering Incorrectly

Proper watering is crucial for maintaining healthy citrus trees, yet many common citrus problems stem from insufficient or improper watering. Here’s how to ensure your trees receive the moisture they need:

1. Recognize Water Stress
   • Signs of Underwatering: Drooping or inward-curling leaves.
   • Signs of Sufficient Water: Leaves lie flat or curl slightly downward.
2. Adjust for Tree Age
   • Young Trees: Require more frequent watering due to shallower root systems.
   • Established Trees: Benefit from slow, deep, and infrequent watering, encouraging roots to grow deeper in search of moisture.
3. Water to the Right Depth
   • Depth Target: Aim to water to a depth of at least 18–24 inches for younger trees and up to 3 feet for mature trees.
   • Soil Probe: Use a probe to check how far water penetrates; it will pass through moist soil and stop when hitting dry soil. Get a soil probe here.
4. Don’t Overwater
   • Root Health: Citrus roots need air as well as water. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry before watering again.
   • Root Rot Risk: Consistently saturated soil leads to root rot.

For detailed guidelines on watering intervals, consult my monthly blog posts or the University of Arizona Extension Office’s publication, Irrigating Citrus Trees. Looking for more citrus-growing tips? Check out this article for additional insights on how to grow citrus.

Mistake #7: Skirting and over-pruning citrus trees

Unlike many other fruit trees, citrus typically doesn’t require extensive pruning beyond removing suckers and water sprouts. However, if you choose to prune, here are a few key guidelines to help you do it correctly.

• Manage suckers and water sprouts
  Remove any shoots emerging below the graft union (suckers) as well as tall, fast-growing vertical shoots (water sprouts), which divert energy away from the main canopy. Learn more about how to identify citrus suckers in this guide.
• Remove dead or crossing branches
  Eliminate branches that rub against each other or show no signs of life; this promotes better airflow and prevents further damage.
• Avoid pruning in summer
  Summer pruning exposes the tree’s bark to intense sunlight, increasing the risk of sunburn and trunk damage.
• Limit cuts to preserve fruit
  Pruning healthy new growth reduces the tree’s fruit-bearing potential. Only prune when necessary.
• Beware of “skirting”
  Unlike deciduous fruit trees, citrus generally doesn’t need heavy pruning. Cutting off all lower limbs—known as “skirting”—is a common mistake. Those lower limbs help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature.

For more information on pruning fruit trees, check out this guide.

Mistake #8: Not fertilizing citrus trees

Citrus are heavy feeders and need sufficient soil nutrients year-round. Leaf discoloration and pale citrus leaves are often caused by nutrient deficiencies – usually iron, magnesium, and nitrogen. 

Once your citrus tree is planted, knowing how to fertilize citrus trees is key to helping it grow strong and start producing fruit.

Use an organic fertilizer developed for citrus trees and apply it according to package directions throughout the year. Water well before and after applying fertilizer. In the low desert of Arizona, our fertilizer application dates are typically Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day. 

You can also use the fruit tree feeding method of compost and worm castings described in this guide.

Mistake #9: Exposing Citrus Bark to Direct Sunlight

Citrus bark is highly susceptible to sunburn, which can crack and damage the trunk, inviting pests and disease. To avoid this, maintain a proper canopy—don’t “skirt” trees too high (see Mistake #7)—and protect any exposed bark from harsh sunlight. You can use a breathable, stretchable tree wrap or apply a water-based paint formulated for citrus to create a protective barrier and prevent sunscald. Learn how to protect citrus bark and prevent sunburned citrus bark in this guide.

Mistake #10: Neglecting to Harvest Fruit

Leaving overripe citrus on the tree attracts insects, birds, and rodents. Citrus harvests typically begin in late fall and can extend into spring, so be sure to sample the fruit at the start of the harvest window to check for ripeness. Citrus often stays ripe on the tree for several weeks and sometimes months—take advantage of this by enjoying fresh fruit or juicing any surplus. If you have an abundance, try these tips for juicing citrus.

Once the fruit starts to soften and drop, harvest everything left on the tree and clean up any fallen fruit to discourage pests and rodents. Correcting this common oversight is easy, and your citrus trees will be healthier and more productive.

If this post about citrus growing mistakes was helpful, please share it.

The post Citrus Growing Mistakes: How to Avoid Them appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

1. Grow mint in a container to prevent spreading
2. Choose an isolated area to plant mint
3. Plant a bottomless container in the ground to control mint

Grow mint in a container to prevent spreading

The easiest way to prevent mint from spreading uncontrollably is to grow it in a container. The size of the container limits the size of the mint. Adding an oya, or porous clay irrigation vessel, will keep the soil consistently moist without allowing it to become waterlogged. Learn more about how to grow mint in this article.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

Choose an isolated area to plant invasive mint

If you prefer to grow mint in the ground, consider planting it in an isolated area away from other plants. Ideally, there is a barrier between where the mint is growing that is not watered.

This method will help contain its spread and prevent it from overtaking your garden if you live in a dry climate. Unfortunately, if the soil is generally moist where you live, then mint will spread. You will need to try a different method.

Look for a spot that doesn’t receive a lot of direct sunlight, as mint prefers partial shade. I have had remarkable success growing mint in an isolated shaded area of my low desert garden for several years. 

Plant a bottomless container in the ground to control mint

Another method to prevent mint from spreading is to use a 10-inch nursery pot with the bottom cut off. Plant the mint inside the pot and bury it in the ground. The roots can grow freely while restricting the horizontal spread of its rhizomes. This allows you to enjoy fresh mint without worrying about it taking over other areas of your garden.

By following these tips for containing invasive spreaders like mint, you can enjoy their beauty and benefits without worrying about them taking over your garden. Remember, you are in control.

Additional Herb Resources:

• Read this post for more information about growing herbs in the low desert of Arizona.
• Learn about other perennial herbs in this blog post.
• Learn about how to grow herbs in hot climates.

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The post Invasive Mint: How to Prevent Mint from Spreading appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Why are Cucumbers Bitter? 

Unfortunately, there’s no way to identify a bitter cucumber visually. However, one bite of a bitter cucumber leaves no doubt!

Cucumbers become bitter due to the presence of compounds called cucurbitacins. These naturally occurring chemical compounds can be found in various parts of the cucumber plant, including the leaves, stems, and fruit. While cucurbitacins serve a protective function for the plant by deterring pests and herbivores, they impart a bitter taste in high concentrations. 

Several factors can influence the levels of cucurbitacins in cucumbers, including environmental conditions such as temperature fluctuations, inconsistent watering, and nutrient deficiencies. For example, the cucumbers may become stressed and bitter if the temperature swings between hot and cold or the soil is too dry or too wet. Genetic factors also play a role, as some cucumber varieties are predisposed to produce higher levels of cucurbitacins. 

5 Tips to Prevent Bitter Cucumbers

1. Choose less bitter cucumber types

Choosing the right variety is one of the most critical factors in preventing bitter cucumbers. 

Commonly grown slicing cucumbers like ‘Straight Eight’ or ‘Marketmore’ can sometimes be more prone to bitterness, especially under stressful growing conditions. Pickling varieties such as ‘Boston Pickling’ can also exhibit bitter tendencies without optimal care. 

Conversely, varieties labeled as “burpless” or “bitter-free,” like ‘Tasty Green‘ or ‘Suyo Long,’ have lower levels of cucurbitacins, making them a safer bet for a consistently sweet flavor. Another safe bet, especially for hot climate growers, is Armenian cucumbers. They are known for their mild flavor and lack of bitterness. (Click on the cucumber name for links to seeds.)

Learn more about how to grow Armenian cucumbers in this blog post.

2. Don’t grow cucumbers when it’s too hot

Cucumbers thrive in warm temperatures and need plenty of sunlight, but excessive heat can cause them to become bitter. If you live in a hot summer climate, plant early in the season so cucumbers can finish up before it gets too hot. The low desert also has a second planting window for cucumbers during our fall warm season. 

Providing shade during the hottest parts of the day can extend the growing season in hot summer cliamtes. If your warm season is short, plant hot season, heat-loving Armenian types like Painted Serpent Cucumbers instead. These cucumbers are adapted to thrive in high temperatures and can tolerate heat stress better than other varieties. This blog post shares more ideas for heat-loving crops.

3. Water cucumber plants correctly 

Proper watering is crucial for preventing bitterness in cucumbers. Inconsistent watering can stress the plants and lead to bitter-tasting fruit. Keep the soil consistently moist by watering deeply and regularly, especially during hot weather or when the fruits develop. A thick layer of mulch can help keep moisture levels more even. Avoid overwatering, as soggy soil can also cause bitterness in cucumbers.

Having some sort of watering system in place can help with consistent watering. It doesn’t have to be fancy; a battery-operated timer with a soaker hose can be effective. I use garden grids from Garden in Minutes in my raised beds. They provide consistent even watering that helps prevent water stress in plants. (Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order).

4. Don’t skimp on compost 

Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require adequate nutrients to grow healthy and flavorful fruit. Before planting your cucumber seeds or seedlings, ensure your soil is rich in organic matter and amend it with compost or balanced fertilizer. You may consider regular light applications of worm castings, compost, or a fruiting fertilizer. 

In-bed vermicomposting bins are an excellent way to provide your garden beds with microbe-rich worm castings that feed your soil throughout the season. Learn more about how to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your beds in this blog post.

5. Harvest cucumbers young 

Timing is vital when it comes to harvesting cucumbers to prevent bitterness. Pick your cucumbers when they reach their ideal size according to the variety you’re growing – usually around 6-8 inches long for slicing and smaller for pickling types. The cucumbers should be firm and have a glossy skin. Overripe cucumbers tend to be more bitter, so don’t let them sit on the vine too long before harvesting. 

Learn more about how to grow cucumbers in this blog post.

Can You “Fix” a Bitter Cucumber? 

If one cucumber is bitter, should I pull the whole plant?

If you notice a plant producing bitter cucumbers, address the plant’s needs (watering, sunlight, fertilizer) to ensure they are being met so the remaining cucumbers won’t also be bitter. However, if the reason for the bitterness is high heat, you may be better off removing the plant and starting over with Armenian types.

What about the bitter cucumbers I already picked?

If you harvested bitter cucumbers, all hope is not lost. Before using them in your recipes, try several tricks to help reduce their bitterness. One method is to peel off the skin and remove the ends of the cucumber before slicing or chopping it. The skin and ends often contain higher concentrations of cucurbitacin, so removing them can help mitigate some bitterness.

If peeling doesn’t eliminate the bitterness, you can also try soaking sliced cucumbers in salt water or vinegar for about 30 minutes before using them in your dishes. Mix one or two tablespoons of salt or vinegar for every four cups of water and submerge the cucumber slices in the solution. This process helps draw out some bitter compounds from the cucumber flesh, resulting in a milder flavor. 

Understanding why your cucumbers turn out bitter and taking steps to prevent it can ensure you enjoy delicious and crisp cucumbers all season. By choosing the right varieties, providing optimal growing conditions, and harvesting at the right time, you can significantly reduce the chances of encountering bitter cucumbers in your garden or kitchen. 

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Garlic Witch Brooming:  What is it and Why Does This Happen?

Witches brooming describes the condition where secondary sprouting occurs during bulb development. Tiny stalks form as they sprout from the inside out. It’s challenging to find research-based information about why witch brooming happens. The two culprits often blamed are fluctuating weather conditions and high nitrogen levels, or a combination of the two. 

I asked a local supplier, John, at Forever Yong Farm about witch brooming in garlic. He noted that he had seen it, but only at the end of the maturing of Creole garlic, which takes longer to mature. Some years, he notices few, if any. Other years, he stated there can be up to 20-25%.

About 10% of my garlic witch-broomed this season. This winter, my garden experienced extended lower-than-normal temperatures. We had many days of below-freezing nighttime temperatures and lows of 25°F (-3.8°C). I planted my garlic in new garden beds and did not test the soil, but it is unlikely that the nitrogen levels were high.

Signs of Witch Brooming

Garlic leaves provide energy for the developing bulb, and after harvesting, they dry and form the papery skin that wraps around the bulb. When garlic witch brooms, there are extra leaves because each clove sends up a thin sprout. The garlic sprouts underground, and you won’t know anything is amiss until you see the excessive leaves growing through the soil. Learn more about how to grow garlic in this blog post.

Can you stop it once it happens? 

Unfortunately, the garlic sprouting is already triggered and usually continues. But here’s the good news: these irregularities don’t render your harvest inedible. The bulbs may be smaller, but flavor-wise, your garlic will probably still have that delicious taste you love. 

Harvesting & Using Affected Garlic

When you decide to pick your garlic, be gentle. These garlic bulbs might be more fragile and come apart. Use a trowel to dig them up rather than pulling them up by the leaves. 

Most sources say it’s best to use witch-broomed garlic quickly after harvesting. Choose methods that can extend the storage life, like pickling, fermenting, or drying. This year, I made roasted garlic with some of the broomed garlic from my garden. 

You can also allow the garlic to cure, which will tighten the skin around the cloves and may prolong storage life. The difference between regular and broomed garlic is that each clove is encased, but there is no protective layer around the entire garlic bulb. Monitor the garlic closely and use or discard any that show signs of softening or decay.

I’m curing and storing both my regular and broomed garlic this season. I will monitor the storage time to see if there is a difference. I will also plant the affected garlic this fall in a separate location to see if witch brooming happens again. I’ll update this post when I have more information. 

Ideas for Preventing Witches Brooming in Garlic

Excessive nitrogen, while beneficial for leafy growth, can exacerbate garlic’s witch-broom effect, leading to overgrowth and splitting. Consider getting your soil tested and adjusting fertilizer application accordingly. For instance, if your soil test reveals high nitrogen levels, you may need to switch to a fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content or reduce the frequency of application. 

Diversifying your garlic varieties can also be a proactive step. Some types may be more resilient to environmental stresses, including those contributing to witches broom. Research and plant a mix of varieties to see which grows best in your garden’s unique conditions. 

A thick layer of mulch may also help regulate soil temperature, decrease water fluctuations, and protect garlic from extreme weather. 

Learn and Share

Have you encountered strange garlic growth? Your experience could help us all understand more about this issue. I’d love to hear about it. Share your story and location in the comments to contribute to our collective knowledge. 

Here is a video from another gardener who shares her experience:

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The post Witches Broom Garlic: What’s Wrong with My Garlic?  appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

As a new gardener, you’re bound to make mistakes; we all do. After helping people learn how to garden for several years, I’ve noticed some common mistakes. I compiled this list of 10 common new gardener mistakes, hoping you can avoid them as you begin your gardening journey.

1. Thinking you need everything before you begin

There isn’t only one right way to garden. Premade beds and watering grids are nice but not a necessity to get started. Use the resources you have available. You don’t have to have everything to get started. A container or two is a great beginning. Learn more about how to start a container garden in this blog post.

If resources are limited, consider growing in-ground rather than in beds. Although more labor-intensive, in-ground beds are a less expensive way to start a garden. Start by getting a soil test to see if that is a good choice for your garden. Learn more about how to start an in-ground garden here.

2. New Gardener Mistake: Being overwhelmed by all there is to learn

As gardeners, we are always learning. It’s impossible to know it all before you begin. Don’t worry yet about more complicated skills like starting seeds indoors. Focus on learning about a few plants and build from there. Experience will be one of your best teachers.

3. Following advice for other climates

Local resources are crucial, especially for new gardeners. What and when to plant vary depending on where you live. What works in other areas may not work in your climate. Each climate has benefits and challenges. The key is maximizing your area’s advantages and understanding and adapting to the challenges.

Ask local gardeners for help and find local resources. (Extension Office, local nurseries, even Instagram). If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I have planting resources available. If you live in other areas, this blog post can help you find resources for your climate. 

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

4. Not taking the time to understand the light patterns on your property

The decision of where to put your garden is an important one. Sunlight is one of the most critical factors in determining the location of your garden. Because the sun’s angle changes throughout the year, take time to observe the sun’s patterns all year long. 

Using an app like Sun Seeker will help you understand the light patterns on your property. Use containers or grow bags for the first year to get an idea of which locations in your yard receive morning sunlight throughout the year and how much each area gets. 

5. Not learning about the crops before you grow them

Begin with a vegetable, herb, and flower. Learn the key facts about each one – how they grow, whether to plant from seed or transplant, how much space they need, and when to harvest them. You’ll feel much more prepared, and chances are, you will have more success. 

My website has over 100 “how to grow” articles for different crops. If you’re looking for easier crops, this blog post about ten easy-to-grow vegetables and herbs may be helpful. 

New Gardener Mistakes (cont.)

6. Watering mistakes

Many new gardeners overwater their gardens. It’s easy to do. However, overwatering wastes a valuable (and expensive) resource and harms plants. Learning how much to water can be tricky, but the best way to learn is by observation. Water deeply, then monitor your plants and soil, and don’t water again until the top inch or so of soil is dry. Read this post to learn more about watering principles. 

7. Not supporting crops that need it 

Many crops grow best with a trellis. Growing plants vertically helps many plants be healthier and produce more. Trellis can be free or inexpensive, but adding them when you plant is essential. 

8. New Gardener Mistake: Over-fertilizing 

Like overwatering, adding fertilizer to the soil helps us feel we are doing something good for our plants. But that may not be true. Too much fertilizer can produce excess green leaves instead of fruit and cause an unhealthy buildup of nutrients in the soil. Instead, focus on feeding the soil by adding regular compost and vermicomposting bins to your beds. The soil will then feed your plants. 

9. Not harvesting and eating what you grow

Grow things you like to eat! Learn the best time to harvest and enjoy the farm-to-table, locally sourced, homegrown food!

10. Not spending time in your garden every day

If you spend a little time each day, garden tasks won’t overwhelm you. You will catch problems when they are small and easily managed. Learn more about what to do each day in your garden in this blog post.

As you begin this gardening journey, take heart. We have all killed plants or had them killed for us by bugs and diseases. You will too, and it’s okay! That’s part of the process and how we learn. Enjoy your successes and learn from your mistakes. Don’t be afraid to start a garden today! 

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Raised bed garden mistake #1: Not having an overall plan for your space

I’m a big fan of starting small when you start a garden. However, it’s essential to consider the entire space before you install the first raised bed. You don’t need to install all the raised beds at once, but do have a plan for where they will be placed. Raised beds are difficult, if not impossible, to move. 

Use the guidelines for designing a raised bed garden and map out where each bed will be before you put the first one in place. Beginning with the end in mind will help ensure your space is as productive and efficient as possible.

Want to see how I’ve designed my raised bed layout to avoid common mistakes? Take a look at my backyard garden design in action.

Thinking about adding a raised bed? I love my metal garden bed (it comes with watering grids!) from Garden in Minutes. Read this post to see if metal beds heat up more than wooden beds.

If you aren’t sure where you want to put your garden beds, consider gardening in grow bags for the first season. Grow bags are an inexpensive way to begin gardening as you determine the best location for your raised bed garden. This blog post shares how to get started with grow bag gardening.

Raised bed garden mistake #2: Not making a plan for how you will water your garden

Many problems in the garden can be traced back to incorrect watering: too much, too little, or inconsistent watering. Irregular watering causes seeds and seedlings to dry out, and it stresses established plants inviting pests and diseases.  

Consider how you will water the garden beds as part of your raised bed garden plan.

Some type of automatic watering system is the best way to water raised beds. Timers can be adjusted to water daily during the warmest months or less often, depending on rain and other weather conditions.

My favorite drip-line irrigation system is the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes. I’ve used them since 2017 and added them to all my garden’s raised beds. Learn more about watering principles for raised bed gardens in this post.

Raised bed garden mistake #3: Not making beds deep enough or not using all of the space in the beds

Raised beds should be at least 12 inches deep; 18 inches is even better. The amount of soil in the raised beds limits plant roots. Fill the beds all the way up with the best soil possible (see mistake #4).

For beds deeper than 18 inches, filling up the bottom part of the bed with dried leaves, compost, or other organic matter (Hügelkultur style) is okay, but ensure at least the top 12″-18” is soil. 

Filling beds up only halfway causes more temperature fluctuations, which is also stressful for plants. 

Raised bed garden mistake #4: Not focusing on your soil

Soil is the most crucial factor in your garden’s success. Healthy soil is rich with oxygen, light, fluffy, friable, and porous.

Soil that is full of life (fungi, bacteria, protozoa, nematodes, and earthworms) provides the nutrients that feed the roots of the plants in your garden. As you care for it, good soil will improve over time. This post shows you more about the best soil for raised beds. I use the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm to fill up all my beds. 

Regularly adding compost to your garden beds makes any soil better. Compost is loaded with vital nutrients that are released slowly into the soil. Other benefits of compost include stimulating growth, moderating soil pH, disease protection, improved soil structure, and water retention. 

Using in-bed vermicomposting buckets is another way to improve your soil dramatically. The worms break down scraps and make castings right in the beds. Worm castings are a powerhouse of nutrients with minerals and good microorganisms that improve plant growth as well as pest and disease resistance. In this post, learn more about adding in-bed worm composting to your raised bed garden.

Raised bed garden mistake #5: Planting at the wrong time

Part of learning to garden is learning the characteristics of the plants you want to grow. Vegetables, herbs, fruit, and flowers have preferred growing temperatures.

• Cool-season crops include lettuce, onions, broccoli, beets, radishes, spinach, and cauliflower.
• Warm-season crops include tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, melons, squash, eggplant, and sweet potato.

Plants are happiest and grow best when planted at the ideal soil temperature and growing conditions.

The best time to plant varies significantly by region. Therefore, a big part of gardening success is learning the unique growing conditions of your area.

Understand your current climate’s challenges and maximize your climate’s benefits.

To learn the best time to plant, ask experienced gardeners in your area, or contact your local extension office. In addition, local nurseries can be an excellent resource for planting dates and information. Learn more about finding a planting guide for your area in this post.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, my blog (you’re reading it right now) is full of resources to help you determine the best time to plant.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Starting a raised bed garden doesn’t have to be an overwhelming process. If you take the time to plan, you can avoid costly mistakes. Ensure that your beds are deep enough and use the space available. Focus on soil health and learn the best planting times. Now is the perfect time to begin. You’ve got this! 

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Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems

Learn more about Growing in the Garden Academy here. When you join you get access to all of the past hour-long classes.

Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems (cont.)

Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems (cont.)

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