Bermuda grass can feel impossible to get rid of, especially in hot climates like Arizona. It spreads fast, grows deep, and quickly takes over garden spaces. If you’re wondering how to remove Bermuda grass organically and start a raised bed garden, you’re in the right place.

In the spring of 2020, we decided to expand our backyard garden, but unlike other parts of the yard, this area was full of Bermuda grass. Before we could plant anything, we had to address the issue. In this post, I’ll show you exactly how we removed Bermuda grass without chemicals and created a productive, low-maintenance raised bed garden.

This 10-step process is chemical-free and beginner-friendly. I’m also sharing answers to the most common questions I get about removing Bermuda grass and keeping it from coming back.

What We Will Cover

• Why We Removed Bermuda Grass
• Our 10-Step Process to Remove Bermuda Grass Organically and Install Raised Beds
  • Step 1: Make a Plan
  • Step 2: Remove the Top Layer of Bermuda Grass
  • Step 3: Rough-In the Irrigation System
  • Step 4: Lay Landscape Fabric
  • Step 5: Assemble and Place the Raised Beds
  • Step 6: Layer Cardboard Inside the Beds
  • Step 7: Fill Beds with Soil
  • Step 8: Finish the Irrigation System
  • Step 9: Add Mulch Between the Beds
  • Step 10: Plant Your Garden
• FAQ: Removing Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals

Why We Removed Bermuda Grass

We wanted to expand our backyard garden, but Bermuda grass covered the entire area. Since our kids still use the lawn, we left a grassy section and created a clear, durable border between the grass and new garden beds using concrete curbing.

We knew that simply removing the grass wouldn’t be enough. Bermuda grass spreads underground and will find any opportunity to grow back. Our approach included multiple layers of physical barriers and intentional garden design.

Our 10-Step Process to Remove Bermuda Grass Organically and Install Raised Beds

Step 1: Make a Plan

Decide how much lawn to remove and where your garden will go. Use durable edging like concrete or metal to separate garden areas from lawn. Map out your raised bed layout, keeping sun exposure, irrigation access, and pathways in mind.

Need help? Read 10 Tips for Designing Raised Bed Gardens.

Step 2: Remove the Top Layer of Bermuda Grass

Time: Half-day to full day

We tackled this project in the early spring while Bermuda grass was dormant. Using a sod cutter rented from Home Depot, we removed the top 4 to 6 inches of winter grass and roots. This cuts down regrowth dramatically.

We rolled up the removed sod and gave it to someone who was redoing their yard.

Tip: Most Bermuda roots are in the top 6 inches, but many rhizomes can grow deeper. Remove as much as possible.

Step 3: Rough-In the Irrigation System

Time: Depends on amount of beds.

We placed pieces of weed cloth to represent our raised beds and tried out a few different layouts before deciding. Then, we converted one sprinkler head into a drip line and capped the rest.

We ran a main drip line between bed locations and stubbed out short lines for each bed.

Want to know more? See my post on the best way to water raised beds.

Step 4: Lay Landscape Fabric

Time: 1 to 2 hours

Next, we laid permeable landscape fabric across the entire cleared area. This allows water and nutrients through but blocks light to prevent Bermuda regrowth. Secure the edges with landscape staples and overlap pieces to avoid gaps.

Pro Tip: Choose heavy-duty fabric—not plastic sheeting.

Step 5: Assemble and Place the Raised Beds

Time: 20 min to 1 hour per bed

We used raised beds and placed them directly on top of the landscape fabric. If you’re building your own beds, now is the time to install them and level them. Here’s a link to the beds I like to use from Garden in in Minutes. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

For layout tips, see Raised Bed Garden Design.

Step 6: Layer Cardboard Inside the Beds

Time: 30 minutes

We added a layer of cardboard inside each bed as another way to smother Bermuda grass. The large shipping boxes from the garden beds and watering grids worked perfectly.

Tip: Overlap pieces and remove any plastic tape or labels. Wet the cardboard to help it stay in place and begin breaking down.

Step 7: Fill Beds with Soil

Time: 15-30 minutes per bed

We used a blend of compost, peat moss, and vermiculite, the mix I’ve used for years in all my raised beds. Arizona Worm Farm now makes this mix for me, and if you’re in the Phoenix Valley, it’s definitely worth the trip. They use their own high-quality compost and worm castings to create a rich, balanced soil that’s ready for planting. It’s fantastic stuff and has made a big difference in how well my garden grows. My guide on how to fill a raised bed explains what to add initially and how to keep improving soil season after season.

Learn more in my post on The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening.

Stuck on gardening vocabulary like compost, vermiculite, and worm castings? The Gardening Glossary has your back.

Step 9: Add Mulch Between the Beds

Time: Half-day

We covered the exposed landscape fabric between beds with a thick layer of wood chips. This helps block light, reduce weeds, and give the garden a tidy look.

You can buy mulch or use free chips from ChipDrop.com. I’m currently using wood chip mulch from Arizona Worm Farm and love it.

Step 10: Plant Your Garden

Time: Ongoing

With everything in place, we planted seeds and transplants suited to the season. Using my Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide.

FAQ: Removing Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals

Final Thoughts

Bermuda grass is tough, but it doesn’t have to stop you from starting a garden. With a thoughtful plan and consistent effort, you can transform a lawn into a beautiful and productive space without using chemicals. This method has worked well in my Arizona garden, and the Bermuda grass hasn’t returned.

Looking for alternatives to traditional grass? Learn more about low-water-use ground covers like Kurapia that thrive in desert conditions.

Want help planning your raised bed garden?
Check out my Raised Bed Garden Design Guide and Arizona Vegetable Planting Calendar.

Want more water-saving tips?

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Remove Bermuda Grass Organically and Install Raised Beds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this post, I’m sharing 10 proven ways to help your garden survive summer’s intense heat. These tips are especially helpful if you garden in a hot, dry climate, such as Arizona, but most apply regardless of your gardening location. So pour yourself a cool drink, find a shady spot, and let’s walk through how to set your garden up for success, even when the forecast is sizzling.

What we’ll cover:

1. Planting at the right time – Why timing matters more than you think
2. Choosing heat-tolerant plants – What grows well in hot summer weather
3. Understanding microclimates – Make the most of shady, sheltered areas
4. Watering wisely – How and when to water for the best results
5. Using mulch effectively – Reduce evaporation and keep soil cool
6. Providing summer shade – Options for shade cloth, structures, and more
7. Protecting from summer wind – Why hot wind is more damaging than you think
8. Dealing with dust storms – How to help plants recover
9. Helping container plants cope – Tips for watering and placement
10. Adjusting your expectations – Why “survival” is a win in summer

More Summer Gardening Resources

1. Plant your garden at the right time

If you only follow one tip from this list, make it this one. Use a planting guide made for your specific area and stick to it. When you plant at the right time, your garden gets a head start. Plants have time to establish strong roots before the extreme heat sets in. Well-established plants are more resilient and better able to handle heat and stress.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, click here to see the planting guides I use. For other areas, this post can help you find a reliable guide: How to Find a Planting Guide for Your Area.

These planting resources for the low desert of Arizona are available in my shop.

2. Choose the right plants for your garden

Not all plants can handle high summer temperatures, especially during stretches of extreme heat. Look for varieties that are bred for your region or known to do well in hot climates. If disease is a concern, choose varieties labeled as resistant. If your growing season is short, opt for plants with lower “days to harvest.”

Some heat-loving plants to consider: sweet potatoes, okra, Malabar spinach, asparagus beans, roselle hibiscus, and basil. These thrive in hot temperatures and are excellent additions to a summer garden in a warm climate.

3. Be aware of microclimates in your yard

Every yard has areas that get more or less sun, wind, and heat. Observing your space and understanding how the light moves through it can make a big difference in summer. Look for spots that are protected from late-afternoon sun, and take note of areas that are consistently cooler or warmer.

Microclimates matter even more in summer. A few degrees of difference can determine whether a plant survives or struggles. Use these areas to your advantage, especially for more sensitive crops or containers.

4. Water your garden correctly to help it survive the summer

Watering is one of the most crucial things you can do to support your garden during the summer. Inconsistent watering leads to stressed plants, making them more susceptible to pests, diseases, and heat damage.

The best solution is to automate your watering. A simple system with a battery-powered timer and drip tubing can make a big difference. Water deeply and consistently to encourage the development of strong root systems.

Water early in the morning to give the soil time to absorb the moisture and reduce evaporation. Avoid watering during the heat of the day, when a significant portion of the water can be lost to evaporation before it reaches the plant roots.

I use the watering grids from Garden in Minutes in all of my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off orders of $100 or more, or use ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

For more detailed help, refer to How to Water Your Garden in a Hot Climate.

5. Mulch, mulch, mulch to help your garden survive summer

Mulch is one of the simplest and most effective ways to protect your garden from the summer heat. Add a layer of 3 to 5 inches of organic mulch such as compost, straw, pine needles, shredded leaves, newspaper, or cardboard. This keeps soil moisture in, reduces temperature swings, and protects plant roots.

Mulch also improves soil over time as it breaks down. It helps suppress weeds, which compete with your plants for water and nutrients. Learn more about how to mulch your garden here.

Note: Straw is usually a better choice than hay. Hay often contains seeds that sprout in the garden, while straw has fewer seeds and is less likely to become a problem.

6. Provide shade for your summer garden

When temperatures stay high for days or weeks, even heat-loving plants can suffer. Shade can make the difference between survival and sun-scorched plants. Providing shade is like giving your garden a protective layer to help it survive the hottest part of the day.

Temporary shade structures like shade cloth, umbrellas, or even old sheets can be very effective. Use hoops, T-posts, or PVC frames to support them. For longer-term solutions, consider planting vines, sunflowers, or even permanent trees for natural shade. Here is a link to the shade cloth I use.

For more help, read Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer and Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun).

7. Keep an eye on the wind

Wind can be just as damaging as heat. Summer winds are often hot and dry, which can quickly dehydrate plants. Make sure young trees are staked securely and that trellises or shade structures are anchored well.

Wind increases moisture loss in plants, even if the temperature isn’t extreme. After a particularly windy day, water deeply to replenish the moisture lost through evaporation from the leaves.

8. Don’t let the dust settle

Dust storms are a common occurrence in many hot, dry climates. When a storm rolls through, plants can be left coated in fine dust that blocks sunlight and clogs the pores on their leaves.

If a dust storm isn’t followed by rain, gently rinse your plants with the hose to help them recover. This also gives you a chance to check for any damage caused by wind or flying debris.

9. Baby your containers to help them survive the summer

Container plants are especially vulnerable during summer. The soil in pots heats up faster than garden soil and dries out quickly. Because roots can’t reach down into cooler layers of soil, they rely on you completely for water and care.

• Check the container soil moisture daily, especially during heatwaves. A moisture meter can help prevent overwatering. I use this moisture meter from Amazon in my own garden.
• If you can, move containers to shadier parts of your yard. Grouping them together can help retain moisture and reduce stress on plants.
• One of my favorite tools for container gardening in the heat is an olla. I use ollas from Growoya in all my pots. They slowly release water right where the roots need it.

If you’re using containers in a hot climate, Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates shares strategies to help your garden thrive when temperatures soar.

10. Adjust expectations

It’s normal for a summer garden in a hot climate to look a little tired. Even with all the right care, things slow down. Many plants stop producing fruit when temperatures are over 100°F. Tomato and pepper pollen, for example, isn’t viable at high temps.

This doesn’t mean you’re doing anything wrong. The goal in summer is often just to keep your plants alive until cooler temperatures return. Focus on maintenance, harvest what you can, and plan ahead for your fall garden.

When the weather finally starts to shift, your garden (and you) will breathe a sigh of relief.

More Summer Gardening Resources

Looking for more ways to help your garden thrive during the summer? These posts and videos are packed with ideas, plant suggestions, and practical tips for gardening in the heat:

• Vegetables That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• 10 Flowers That Love Hot Summers (and How to Grow Them)
• Summer Gardening in Arizona
• Hot Summer Rose Care: How to Help Roses Survive Extreme Heat
• Take the Summer Off: Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead
• How to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Summers
• 10 Ways to Prepare Your Hot-Climate Garden for Summer
• Watch: Summer Gardening Playlist on YouTube

Find all my desert gardening resources in one place on the Desert Gardening page.

If this post about helping your garden survive summer was helpful, please share it with a fellow gardener.
Have more tips for summer gardening success? Leave a comment—I’d love to hear what works for you.

The post 10 Ways to Help Your Garden Survive Summer appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Although traditionally planted in mounds, I wanted to adapt the Three Sisters method to square-foot gardening in raised beds, which is how most of my garden is planted. I’m sharing the spacing, planting times, and tips, along with what I learned by trying the Three Sisters method in raised beds.

What we’ll cover:

• How to Plant a Three Sisters Garden in a Raised Bed (Layout)
• Best Varieties for Your Three Sisters Garden
• When to Plant Your Three Sisters Garden
• Growing Tips for Your Three Sisters Raised Bed Garden
• Harvesting Tips & Observations from My Garden
• Quick Summary

How to Plant a Three Sisters Garden in a Raised Bed (Layout)

I planted my Three Sisters garden in three of my 4×8 raised beds. Here’s the layout I used successfully:

• Corn: Two rows down the center of each bed, spacing roughly 8-12 inches apart (about 12–16 stalks per bed). Initially, I planted corn seeds directly, but found the soil was still too cool, so the seeds didn’t sprout. Using transplants for the spring planting was much more successful.
  
• Beans: Once the corn was 6 inches to a foot tall, I planted one pole bean seed at the base of each corn stalk (16 bean plants per bed). Use bean transplants if the soil is still cool.
  
• Squash: I planted two squash plants on each of the long sides of the bed (four squash plants total). The end of my beds already had flowers and roses, so the squash plants occupied the side spaces. Using squash transplants was helpful if the soil was still cool.
  

If you are gardening in containers, consider trying a Three Sisters grow bag garden instead.

Best Varieties for Your Three Sisters Garden

These varieties grew well for me and are reliable performers:

• Corn: Silver Queen
  
• Beans: Rattlesnake and Kentucky Wonder Pole Beans
  
• Squash: Black Beauty Summer Squash, Waltham Butternut, or Block Party F1 Butternut (a newer hybrid variety)
  

When to Plant Your Three Sisters Garden

General Planting Guidelines (most climates):

• Corn: Plant seeds or transplants once the danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures reach at least 55°F (13°C)—typically May in cooler climates. Learn how to check the soil temperature in this guide.
  
• Pole Beans: Plant seeds or transplants around corn stalks when the corn is about 6–12 inches tall.
  
• Squash: Plant seeds or transplants roughly two weeks after beans sprout, or when beans are several inches tall. This gives corn and beans a head start and prevents squash from overwhelming them.
  

Low Desert (Arizona) Specific Planting Windows:

• Spring Planting: Begin planting February 15 – March (you may need to use transplants if the soil is still cool).
  
• Monsoon Planting: July – August (the soil will be warm enough for direct seeding).
  

Experiment to determine the timing that works best in your garden.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

Growing Tips for Your Three Sisters Raised Bed Garden

Here are some tips that helped me get the most from my raised-bed setup:

• Soil preparation: Corn is a heavy feeder. Before planting, I amended my raised beds with compost and plenty of worm castings. Learn more about the best soil for raised beds.
• Fertilizing: I fertilized corn plants twice during the growing season with AgroThrive fertilizer. It’s organic, easy to use, and effective.
• Watering consistently: Raised beds dry out quickly. Regular, deep watering is crucial. Read my tips on how to water raised bed gardens.
• Sunlight: Choose a location with full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily). I used shade cloth over part of my garden once daytime temperatures topped 90°F.
• Managing beans: Beans climb rapidly. Keep an eye on the vines. Unwrap any that tangle around the corn ears or the tassles. You can top the vine to keep it from growing taller than the corn.
• Supporting vines: Winter squash vines need room to grow. I planted winter squash in the raised bed next to my arch trellises, allowing the vines to climb and spread.

If you’re new to square-foot planting, check out my tips for growing a square-foot garden.

Harvesting Tips & Observations from My Garden

• Harvesting: Beans and summer squash were ready to harvest first, followed by corn. The bean harvest started off slow but picked up quickly as the corn matured.
• Pollination: Pollination was about 80% successful (yay!) with minimal hand-pollination effort.
• Beneficial insects and pests: I was happy to see ladybugs and lacewings, but surprisingly few pests. Normally, I see worms when growing corn, but not this year. The beans showed whitefly damage (especially lower next to the soil), but it didn’t seem to hinder production or get out of hand.
• Supporting corn stalks: Most corn stalks remained upright, supported by bean vines, but a few fell due to the wind. To keep them upright until harvest, I used wooden stakes and coated wire.

What’s next? After removing the corn, I left several pole bean plants in place and planted okra in its place. I’m curious to see if the beans will climb the okra and continue producing—a fun experiment in companion planting and crop succession. The winter squash should continue to grow well; it has several fruits on the vine and is happily climbing the trellis.

Quick Summary

Growing a Three Sisters garden in raised beds was productive and surprisingly easy. I harvested an impressive amount of corn, beans, and squash from a relatively small space.

Using transplants early in the season gave the garden a helpful head start while waiting for the soil to warm. Direct seeding may be more successful during the monsoon planting when the soil is warmer. I wouldn’t adjust the spacing—it worked well—but I may adjust the timing of planting beans next time to prevent them from tangling with the corn tassels before pollen is released.

If you’ve been considering planting a Three Sisters garden, it’s definitely worth trying. Feel free to comment below with your experiences or questions.

The post How to Grow a Three Sisters Garden in Raised Beds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

With thoughtful backyard garden design, you can grow more than you might think. Whether you’re starting from scratch or reworking what you already have, I hope these backyard layout ideas and raised bed garden design tips help you plan a space that’s productive, flexible, and uniquely your own.

In this post, I’m sharing the layout and design strategies behind my backyard garden. I’ll walk you through how I’ve organized the space over time, how I adjust for the seasons, and how I take advantage of the microclimates in my yard.

Want to see how it all comes together? Watch the full video tour:

Backyard Layout Overview

My backyard layout includes:

• A central garden area (~2,000 sq ft)
• A shaded side yard (~324 sq ft)
• Functional corners for composting, containers, and fruit trees
• Family zones like a pergola, pool, sport court, trampoline, and gathering spaces

This garden didn’t happen all at once—it evolved over time as our family and needs changed. When I first started gardening, we had young kids who needed open lawn space to play. As they grew, we gradually converted more of the yard into a productive garden.

My Backyard Garden Design Goals

From the beginning, I had a few key goals in mind:

• Build a productive raised bed garden design that makes the most of the space we have.
• Maximize sun and shade throughout the seasons to support year-round growing.
• Maximize usable garden areas, whether for planting, composting, or storage.
• Keep areas for family recreation, entertaining, and being together outdoors.

Planning a Flexible Backyard Garden Design

Create a space that grows and adapts with your needs by keeping these backyard layout ideas in mind:

• Start with sunlight. Observe how sun and shade shift throughout the year before deciding where to place your garden. A spot that gets 6–8 hours of sunlight, especially with morning sun and afternoon shade, is ideal for your raised beds.
• Design raised beds to fit your space. For long-term productivity, build beds that are both functional and accessible. Four feet wide is ideal for most people to reach across, and three feet between beds allows room to move, plant, and harvest. Bed length depends on your available space. Learn more in this guide.
• Place trellises on the north side of beds to prevent them from shading other crops.
• Convert turf as your needs change. As kids grow or recreation priorities shift, consider replacing unused grass with garden beds, fruit trees, or gathering areas.
• Incorporate dual-purpose zones. A basketball court can double as a pickleball court. Poles can hold café lights most of the year and shade cloth during the hottest months.
• Make space for function. Areas with less-than-ideal sunlight are perfect for compost bins, rain barrels, or a potting-up station.
• Observe water flow during rainstorms. Use that information to design with swales, berms, or rainwater harvesting features that support your garden year-round. Learn more about rain harvesting and water conservation here.
• Think seasonally. Move containers to maximize sunlight in winter and tuck them away or shade them in summer.
• Include animal spaces if desired. Shade is usually helpful in these areas.

Main Raised Bed Area Garden Design

The heart of my backyard garden is a large open area with:

• Twelve 4×8 raised beds
• Two 2×8 beds
• One 2×6 bed
• One 4×4 bed
• Sixteen whiskey barrel planters

This open part of the yard gets morning sun and some natural afternoon shade from a nearby pergola, which helps protect heat-sensitive crops. The western half of the garden benefits from the pergola’s shade, while the eastern half gets more direct afternoon sun.

To protect those beds on the eastern side, we installed tall poles that stay in place year-round, supporting café lights most of the time, and shade cloth during the hottest months. I also plant branching sunflowers in late spring down the center and along the eastern side. By mid-summer, they help filter the intense afternoon sun and provide living shade where it’s needed most.

“In summer, I use shade cloth and branching sunflowers to protect crops from the afternoon sun—one of my favorite ways to adapt backyard garden design for hot climates.”

It’s a simple and flexible solution, and one of my most effective backyard layout ideas for gardening in extreme heat. You can learn more in these posts on how we added shade to our garden and how to grow sunflowers.

My Raised Bed Garden Design Tips

I’ve refined the layout over the years to make the most of the space, sun, and seasonal changes.

Here’s what works well for me:

• Beds run north–south to capture consistent sunlight throughout the day and across the seasons.
• Containers like whiskey barrels are tucked in around the beds. They’re perfect for growing herbs year-round and rotating in seasonal flowers or greens.
• I rotate crops to support soil health and interplant herbs and flowers to attract pollinators and reduce pest pressure.
• Three-foot pathways make it easy to access and maintain the beds.
• Most beds are four feet wide, with varying lengths depending on the space.

Keeping these tips in mind will give you a functional and flexible raised bed garden design that’s easy to work with year-round. Learn raised bed mistakes to avoid in this guide.

I use Garden in Minutes raised beds in my garden—they’re durable, easy to assemble, and designed to fit their Garden Grid™ watering system perfectly. These beds are built to last 20+ years and are by far my top recommendation for raised bed gardening, especially in hot, dry climates.

Shop my favorite raised beds here and use code ANGELA10 to save $10 off $100, or ANGELA to save 7% on any order.

Once your beds are in place, the next step is deciding how to fill a raised bed so your plants have the healthiest possible start.

Container Gardening Design Tips

In addition to raised beds and in-ground planting, containers play a big role in my backyard garden design. They give me the flexibility to move plants as the seasons change and make the most of available sunlight.

Here are some of the containers I use throughout the year:

• Grow bags: A portable way to expand your garden—learn how to use grow bags here.
• Small containers: Ideal for sunny pockets and small harvests—see container gardening tips and setup ideas.
• GreenStalk vertical planters: Perfect for high-density planting in tight spaces—get my best GreenStalk growing advice.
• An elevated garden bed: Easy to access and move as your garden evolves—read how I set my elevated bed up.

Seasonal Container Strategies:

• Winter: I place containers in areas with maximum sunlight, especially where raised beds may be less productive. During cooler months, even small containers thrive.
• Summer: I move containers to areas with morning sun and afternoon shade to protect plants from intense heat. I also put small containers away to conserve water and focus on larger, more resilient setups.

Using Microclimates in Backyard Garden Design

The Back Corner:

This north-facing area is the coldest spot in the yard—perfect for a peach tree that needs winter chill, but too cold for tomatoes to survive frosts. It gets more sun in the summer and becomes usable again with the help of added shade and strategic planting.

In-Ground Planting in Sunny Zones

Along the western edge of the yard, full sun makes it perfect for in-ground planting. This area includes:

• Grapevines
• Ultra-dwarf fruit trees: Anna apples, guavas, Barbados cherry, fig, plum, and goji berries
• Seasonal plantings of annual flowers like salvia and foxglove
• Full sun vines like Mexican Orchid Vine and Pink Trumpet Vine

In-Ground Planting in Shady Zones

The northern border is less sunny, so I grow vines like skyflower, star jasmine, and honeysuckle there. Containers in this area grow slowly during winter but last longer in spring.

Side Yard: A Shady Garden That Still Produces

This east-facing side yard is more shaded, but still productive. It’s where I first started gardening, and over the years, I’ve adapted the space as my garden evolved. There are:

• Four raised beds
• In-ground planting along the fence line: skyflower, pink trumpet vine, lemon grass, sugar cane
• A shaded functional area with rain barrels, compost bins, and a potting-up table
• Two bay laurel trees

This is one of my favorite backyard layout ideas: use lower-light areas for functional garden tasks like composting. The shade keeps the compost from drying out too quickly and makes the area more comfortable to work in. Learn how to compost in this guide.

Design Takeaways from My Backyard Garden

Here are a few simple, effective backyard garden design tips I’ve learned over the years:

• Understand your sun and shade patterns—they should guide your layout.
• Group crops by light and season, so each area supports the plants best suited to it.
• Use shade cloth, sunflowers, or pergolas to control heat and sun exposure.
• Place containers in prime seasonal locations, and move them as needed.
• Make every area useful—even tucked-away corners can host compost bins or work areas.

Thanks for exploring my backyard garden layout. Whether you’re starting fresh or reworking your space, good design and a clear understanding of your yard can help you grow more, no matter the size.

More Backyard Garden Design Resources

– Garden Layout Planning Guide
– Small-Space Gardening Ideas
– Desert Gardening for Beginners

The post Raised Garden Bed Design: Backyard Layout Ideas That Work appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Companion planting is a proven way to boost garden success. If you’re new to the concept or looking for general tips, check out my 5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting to get started.

Best Companion Plants for Cucumbers

Cucumbers are warm-season crops that grow best in warm temperatures. When companion planting, choose crops from this list that also thrive in similar conditions to ensure all plants grow well together. For more information on companion plants for warm-season gardens read this guide.

Click on the name of each plant below for a detailed growing guide.

• Beans (especially bush beans): Beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which cucumbers love.
• Corn: Tall corn stalks double as a climbing structure for cucumber vines.
• Marigolds: Their scent repels common garden pests that also bother cucumbers.
• Sunflowers: Offer shade and support for climbing cucumbers. Plant outside of beds.
• Dill: Attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs that feed on cucumber pests.
• Radishes: Help break up soil and can deter pests with their pungent aroma.
• Onions (and other alliums): The smell helps keep pests at bay.
• Lettuce or Spinach: Low-growing greens that enjoy partial shade from climbing cucumbers.
• Nasturtiums: Add color, deter pests, and attract pollinators.
• Amaranth: Acts as a natural trellis for cucumbers, while its vibrant leaves add beauty to the garden and attract pollinators.
• Roselle Hibiscus: Provides shade for cucumbers in hot climates and serves as a heat-tolerant climbing support.
• Tithonia (Mexican sunflower): Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects while acting as a climbing support.
• Zinnia: Adds beauty to the garden and attracts bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
• Gomphrena: A heat-loving flower that supports pollinator populations and adds vibrant color.

For more details about how to grow cucumbers successfully, even in hot climates, see this guide.

Why These Cucumber Companion Plants Work

1. Shade & Support: Tall plants like sunflowers, amaranth, and roselle hibiscus create a cooler microclimate and give cucumbers a place to climb.
2. Pollinator Attraction: Flowers like zinnia, gomphrena, and tithonia bring bees and butterflies, improving cucumber pollination. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden.
3. Pest Control: Marigolds, onions, and nasturtiums deter common pests, keeping cucumber plants healthy.
4. Soil Enrichment: Nitrogen-fixing beans improve the soil, benefiting cucumbers.

By including heat-loving plants like basil, marigolds, tithonia, and gomphrena, your garden will thrive even in high temperatures while creating a habitat for pollinators and beneficial insects. For more plants that attract beneficial insects, see this guide.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective and can reduce pests naturally. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Tips for Using Cucumbers as a Companion Plant

• Train Them Vertically: Take advantage of sturdy plants—like sunflowers or tall amaranth—to let cucumber vines climb. This saves space and keeps fruits cleaner.
• Mix in Flowers & Herbs: This will create a habitat for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Herbs like basil, chives, and garlic protect cucumbers from pests while adding fresh flavors to your kitchen.
• Make Room for Root Crops: Cucumbers have shallow roots, so planting beets or carrots nearby won’t cause competition underground.
• Cool the Soil: Underplant cucumbers with lettuce or spinach. Cucumber vines provide the shade those greens need to stay crisp and happy in hot weather.

Hot Climate Cucumber Tip: Grow Armenian Cucumbers

If you’re gardening in a hot climate (like the low desert), regular cucumber varieties may become bitter as temperatures rise. Learn how to fix and prevent bitter cucumbers here. For heat-loving options, try Armenian cucumbers—the Painted Serpent variety is a favorite. Learn how to grow Armenian cucumbers in this guide. They thrive in intense heat and can climb up sunflowers, amaranth, or roselle hibiscus. Pair them with heat-loving companion plants like basil, marigolds, tithonia, zinnia, and gomphrena.

Final Thoughts

Diversity is key: mixing cucumbers with beans, corn, herbs, and flowers keeps your garden healthy and full of life. Companion planting makes a huge difference, no matter the season. Explore my guide to cool-season companion plants for more companion planting ideas.

Additional Resources

For more information about companion planting and how to make the most of your garden, check out these trusted resources:

• West Virginia University Extension: Companion Planting Guide
• University of Minnesota Extension: Companion Planting in Home Gardens

These guides provide in-depth insights into pairing plants for a healthier, more productive garden.

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Article Outline:

• Understand Your Garden’s Microclimates
• Choose the Right Crops
• Use Raised Beds or Containers for Winter Gardening
• Timing is Everything
• Watering Wisely
• Frost Protection Strategies
• Maximizing Sunlight
• Conclusion

Understand Your Garden’s Microclimates

Microclimates are small areas within your garden with slightly different conditions than the surrounding area. These differences can be due to sunlight, wind exposure, and proximity to structures like walls or fences.

Understanding your garden’s microclimates allows you to choose the best spots for different crops. For example, a south-facing wall may provide extra warmth, making it ideal for plants that are more sensitive to cold. Use a minimum/maximum thermometer or thermometer gun to help you identify your yard’s warm and cool spots.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Choose the Right Crops

In warm regions, winter is the perfect time to grow cool-season crops that would struggle in the summer heat. Leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and kale thrive in cooler temperatures, as do root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets. Brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage also do well in winter gardens. (Click on the crop name to see the growing guides for each vegetable.)

Use the free garden planning worksheet to list what you will plant and where.

Use Raised Beds or Containers for Winter Gardening

Raised beds and containers are an excellent choice for winter gardening in warm regions. They offer better drainage, which is essential during winter when the soil can become waterlogged. Raised beds and containers also warm up more quickly than ground-level beds, giving your plants a head start on growth. Additionally, raised beds can be easier to cover with frost cloth or row covers, providing extra protection during unexpected cold snaps. Learn more about container gardening.

Timing is Everything

Timing is crucial when planning your winter garden. Although many crops grow well during mild winters, they get established best when temperatures are slightly warmer. This ensures that your plants are mature enough to withstand any brief dips in temperature. Use your local planting guide to determine the best time to plant. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, my planting guides will help you know the best time to plant.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

Watering Wisely

The watering needs of plants decrease in winter. If you’re used to watering often during hot temperatures, you may find yourself overwatering when temperatures cool down. Check your soil with your fingers or use a moisture meter before watering so you don’t overwater. Too much water can cause slow growth in plants. Learn more about how to water your garden.

Frost Protection Strategies

Prepare before frost by learning which crops must be covered if it freezes. Be prepared to protect your plants with frost cloth or burlap. Mulching around the base of your plants can also help insulate the soil and protect roots from freezing temperatures. Monitor the weather forecast regularly and be ready to take action if frost is predicted.

Maximizing Sunlight

During the winter months, the sun’s angle is lower, which can result in less direct sunlight for your garden. Be mindful of structures or trees that cast shadows over your garden beds. Position your winter garden in a spot that receives the most sunlight. Spacing plants further apart can help maximize the sunlight they receive. Learn which plants tolerate less sun in this guide.

Conclusion

You can make the most of your winter growing season by understanding your microclimates, choosing the right crops, utilizing raised beds and containers, and taking steps to protect your plants from frost. With careful planning and attention to detail, your winter garden will thrive, providing fresh, homegrown produce during the cooler months.

Winter gardening in mild climates means fresh harvests all season long. My Desert Gardening page highlights the best cool-season crops, planting tips, and simple frost protection to keep your garden thriving.

Additional Winter Gardening Resources:

• Best Winter Crops for Hot Summer Climates
• Cool-Season Companion Plant Combinations
• 10 Easy-to-Grow Cool-Season Companion Plants
• 10 Easy Cool-Season Vegetables to Plant from Seed

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Article Index:

• Why Consistent Watering is the Best Way to Water Raised Beds
• The Importance of Automatic Watering Systems in Dry Climates
• Choosing the Best Type of Automatic Watering System
• My Journey to Finding the Best Watering Method
• Discovering the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes
• Why the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes is the Best Choice
• Implementing Best Watering Practices
• The Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens

Why Consistent Watering is the Best Way to Water Raised Beds

Consistency is key in gardening. Inconsistent watering causes seeds and seedlings to dry out and die, stresses established plants, and invites pests and diseases. Especially in arid regions like the low desert of Arizona, where rainfall is scarce, consistent watering becomes even more critical. Regular moisture ensures optimal soil conditions, promoting deep roots and overall plant health.

The Importance of Automatic Watering Systems in Dry Climates

An automatic watering system is the best way to water raised bed gardens in areas with limited rainfall. It ensures that plants receive the right amount of water at the right time without waiting for a busy gardener. Missing even one watering session in a dry climate can kill many plants in your garden. Automatic systems help maintain consistent soil moisture levels, promote growth, and reduce stress (mine and the plants!).

Save Water and Money

Watering can be a significant expense, especially in dry regions. Automatic watering systems, particularly drip irrigation, deliver water directly to the plant roots, minimizing evaporation and runoff. This targeted approach conserves water, reduces utility bills, and supports sustainable gardening practices. Get more water-saving tips in this guide.

Choosing the Best Type of Automatic Watering System

Several options are available, but not all are equally effective for raised bed gardens.

• Soaker Hoses: These often get clogged, crack over time, and don’t distribute water evenly across the bed.
• Sprinklers: While easy to use, sprinklers wet the foliage, which can encourage and spread diseases. They also lead to excess evaporation and inefficient watering.
• Drip Lines: Standard drip irrigation systems can be messy and prone to damage. They may not stay in place and often require complex installation.

My Journey to Finding the Best Watering Method

I experimented with various drip irrigation systems but struggled to achieve even watering in the entire raised bed. Even after watering for a long time, there would be dry spots, while other areas had too much water. The components were expensive, and I often accidentally cut the drip lines while digging. Spaghetti-type drip lines were messy and didn’t always stay in place. Frustrated with these ineffective solutions, I wished there was a better way.

Discovering the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes

When I first saw the Garden Grid on Instagram in 2017, I realized it solved two significant problems: my messy, ineffective drip lines and the need for grids for square-foot gardening. Previously, I used wood slats to divide my beds, which made amending the soil difficult. The Garden Grid was revolutionary. It provided:

• Even Water Distribution: Pre-drilled holes ensure consistent watering in every part of the bed.
• Simplified Square-Foot Gardening: The grid layout makes planting and organization simple.
• Easy Installation and Maintenance: The system is durable, and it’s easy to lift off the bed when adding compost or other soil amendments.

I added the first grid to my garden in 2017 and slowly incorporated them into my older beds. Any new beds I add now always include the Garden Grid. They’ve even started making garden beds that come with the grids, which is now all I use when I add new beds. Read this post to see if metal beds heat up more than wooden beds.

Exclusive Discount: Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

Get Your Garden Grid™ Here

I also use the metal raised beds from Garden In Minutes®, which include the Garden Grid™.

Check Out the Metal Raised Beds Here

Why the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes is the Best Choice

After experimenting with various drip line systems and trying to make my own watering grids (they wouldn’t lay flat and were crooked), the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes stands out as the best way to water raised bed gardens. Here’s why:

1. Even and Efficient Water Distribution

Each grid has pre-drilled holes along the tubing, ensuring that every part of your raised bed receives water evenly. This eliminates dry spots and over-saturated areas. This is especially helpful for seed germination.

2. Easy Integration with Automatic Timers

Connecting the Garden Grids to an automatic timer is simple, allowing you to customize watering schedules based on your garden’s needs and weather conditions. You can see the video I did about adding the grids to my yard’s sprinkler system and Racchio timer here:

3. Quick and Tool-Free Installation

The grids come preassembled and can be installed in minutes without any tools. This simplicity makes it accessible for gardeners of all experience levels.

4. Ideal for Square-Foot Gardening

The Garden Grid divides your garden into evenly spaced square sections, perfect for practicing square-foot gardening. This method helps with plant organization and maximizes the use of space without the need for wood slats or other dividers. Learn more about square-foot gardening techniques in this guide.

5. Durable and Low Maintenance

Unlike traditional drip lines that can be easily damaged while digging or planting, the Garden Grid is sturdy and remains in place. It’s also easy to remove when you need to amend the soil.

6. Adjustable Water Flow

Adding a flow valve to each bed allows you to adjust the water flow into individual beds easily. This allows for customization based on water pressure and the specific water needs of different plants.

Implementing Best Watering Practices

To maximize the benefits of your automatic watering system:

• Monitor Soil Moisture: Even with an automatic system, regularly check soil moisture to ensure your plants get the right amount of water.
• Adjust for Weather Conditions: Modify your watering schedule based on rainfall and temperature changes to prevent overwatering or underwatering.
• Maintain Your System: Periodically inspect your drip lines or grids for clogs or damage to keep the system running efficiently. If a hole gets clogged, unclogging it with a push pin is easy.

The Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens

Investing in an automatic drip irrigation system like the Garden Grid is the best way to water raised bed gardens. It ensures consistent, efficient watering, leading to healthier plants and more bountiful harvests. Especially in arid regions like Arizona’s low desert, this approach saves water, reduces costs, and supports sustainable gardening.

Shop the Garden Grid™ at Garden In Minutes®

Save Now: Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

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Article Outline:

1. What are cool-season hardy annuals?
2. Why start seeds for cool-season hardy annuals?  
3. How to grow cool-season hardy annual flowers
4. Choose the correct varieties for your climate
5. Plan ahead and start seeds indoors
6. Plant cool-season annual flowers at the right time
7. Plant in a good location
8. Additional cool-season hardy annual growing resources

What are cool-season hardy annuals? 

Cool-season hardy annuals are a group of flowers that produce beautiful blooms and include some of my favorite cut flowers. You need to plan ahead and start seeds in the summer. The seedlings are planted outside in the fall and grow strong roots through winter. They begin blooming the following spring, and often, the blooms last into summer.

Looking for clarity on gardening terms like “annual,” “germinate,” or “seedling”? Check out my complete Gardening Glossary: Practical Terms and Definitions.

Why start seeds for cool-season hardy annuals?  

Planting hardy annuals during cooler weather fosters strong root systems before they bloom, resulting in more blossoms and longer stems. These robust plants can better withstand heat, pests, and challenging conditions.

Starting from seeds also provides a wider variety of blooms that are often unavailable in nurseries, which typically sell them in spring, allowing insufficient time for establishment.

Early spring blooming offers earlier nectar and pollen sources, supporting beneficial insects and enhancing your garden throughout the season.

How to grow cool-season hardy annual flowers

1. Choose the correct varieties for your climate

Variety selection is crucial if you want them to bloom the first year. Some of these plants are annuals, but others are biennials or perennials that grow easily in cooler climates. Choose first-year blooming types when possible.

Need help selecting what to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

2. Plan ahead and start seeds indoors

Many of these plants do best started indoors, so you’ll need to start them inside. Pay attention to the germination temperatures listed on the seed packet.

When starting seeds indoors, you’ll need supplies like a grow light (a bright window isn’t enough). For specifics about how to start seeds indoors, check this blog post. Here’s a list of my favorite seed-starting supplies.

Many of these crops need light to germinate. Check the seed packet to be sure. If that’s the case, gently press the seed onto the top of the soil and cover lightly with vermiculite. Then spray the vermiculite with water, use a humidity dome, and put it under grow lights. Once the seedlings sprout, remove the humidity dome. When seedlings are 3-5 inches (7-12cm) tall, they are ready to plant outside.   

3. Plant cool-season annual flowers at the right time

Use the temperature guidelines for each flower to ensure they survive your winter’s average coldest temperature. If they survive your lowest winter temperature, then go ahead and plant them in the fall. If not, plant them in the spring.

The fall planting date to plant the seedlings outside is 6-8 weeks before your first fall frost. Look up your first fall frost date here. For example, my first fall frost date is December 2nd, so my planting window for most of these flowers is from mid-September through October. 

If it gets too cold where you live and you need to plant in the spring, plant 6-8 weeks before your last spring frost. In any climate, If you miss the fall planting date or want to add more plants, you can also plant during this spring window.

Start seeds indoors about 8 weeks before you plant outside. Count back another 8 weeks from your first frost date for your indoor seed starting date. I start seeds for most of these crops in July or August. Check my planting resources or find a planting calendar for your area for exact dates. 

Some crops have a larger planting window and can be planted through early spring. But remember, you’ll have more robust roots, stronger plants, and longer stems if you plant them earlier in the planting window. 

4. Plant in a good location

Choose an area with good soil that is well-draining. Once you plant, keep the seedlings watered until they get established. As temperatures cool, their water needs will be reduced, and growth will slow. Mulch the area to keep it weed-free and protect the soil. As temperatures begin to warm in the spring, they will take off. Get ready to enjoy all of the beautiful blooms.

Many of these flowers benefit from support as they grow. Get details about how to use and install trellis netting for cut flowers in this guide.

Even if it’s too hot to garden outside this summer, you can still enjoy starting these seeds and dream of all the beautiful flowers! 

Additional cool-season hardy annual growing resources:

• The Cut Flower Handbook: Select, Plant, Grow, and Harvest Gorgeous Blooms by Lisa Mason Ziegler
• Cool Flowers: How to Grow and Enjoy Long-Blooming Hardy Annual Flowers Using Cool Weather Techniques by Lisa Mason Ziegler
• 10 Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters
• 10 Easist Cool Season Flowers to Grow

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Article Outline:

Why Save Water?

1. Collect and Use Rainwater
2. Incorporate Swales and Berms in Your Yard
3. Mulch and Amend the Soil to Save Water in the Desert
4. Water Deeply, Less Often
5. Use Drip Irrigation to Save Water in Your Desert Garden
6. Create Microclimates and Group Plants According to Water Needs
7. Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants for Your Desert Garden
8. Eliminate Unused Grass to Conserve Water
9. Be Thoughtful About Summer Watering to Save Water
10. Water at the Right Time

Why Save Water?

• Environmental Sustainability – Water is scarce in desert regions and often comes from limited groundwater supplies. Reducing water usage contributes to the preservation of natural ecosystems.
• Financial Savings – Conserving water means lower water bills. 
• Resilience to Droughts – Desert climates are prone to droughts. Adopting water-saving techniques ensures that your garden can withstand dry spells.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

10 Water-Saving Tips for Desert Gardening:

1. Collect and Use Rainwater

Strategically place buckets, wagons, and garbage cans where they can collect water during a storm. Open up your compost bins during rainstorms. Be creative and find ways to use rainwater.

“A half an inch of rain will deliver more than a half a gallon per square foot of surface.” (Gardening With Less Water). Take advantage of that water by installing gutters and rain barrels. This water can be used to irrigate your plants. Harvesting rainwater helps your garden become more self-sufficient. Learn more in this blog post.

Consider installing more sophisticated rainwater harvesting systems equipped with pumps and filters to store larger volumes of rainwater for irrigation purposes.

This 1100-gallon rain barrel has an internal pump and filter connected to my drip system. When water is available, I use it to water my garden and yard. Additionally, If you can access flood irrigation, learn more about using irrigation water to water your garden in this blog post.

2. Incorporate Swales and Berms in Your Yard

Direct rainwater with gutters and then create swales (shallow ditches) and berms (mounds of soil) in your landscape to capture rainwater and direct it towards your plants, allowing it to soak into the soil rather than runoff.

Gutters on my house feed into PVC lines that direct rain runoff to various swales within berms in my yard near fruit trees. Rather than running down my driveway, the water seeps deep into the ground near the trees’ roots and encourages deep root growth.

3. Mulch and Amend the Soil to Save Water in the Desert

Apply organic mulch around plants and trees to reduce evaporation, suppress weeds, and retain soil moisture. Adding compost and organic matter enhances soil structure and water retention, improving plant health and reducing water requirements. Learn more about mulching in this blog post and how to compost in this blog post.

4. Water Deeply, Less Often

Watering plants deeply but less frequently encourages deeper root growth as the water penetrates further into the soil. This deep root growth enables plants to access moisture more effectively, reducing their dependence on frequent watering.

5. Use Drip Irrigation to Save Water in Your Desert Garden

Utilize drip irrigation systems with adjustable emitters to deliver water directly to the root zones of plants, minimizing water loss through evaporation and runoff. Plants can absorb more water, reducing overall water usage compared to less efficient methods like sprinklers or hand watering.

I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. (Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.) For more tips on watering raised beds check out this guide.

More Water-Saving Tips for Desert Gardening

6. Create Microclimates and Group Plants According to Water Needs

Plants in microclimates or grouped areas can create a more humid and sheltered environment, which reduces evaporation. This means water stays in the soil longer, benefiting the plants and minimizing the need for frequent watering.

Group plants with similar water requirements together to optimize irrigation efficiency and avoid overwatering. By grouping plants with similar water needs, you can water them appropriately without overwatering or underwatering. This targeted approach ensures that each plant receives the right amount of water, reducing overall water consumption.

7. Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants for Your Desert Garden

Opt for native or drought-resistant plant species that are well-suited to the local climate and require less water once established. For ideas for desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert.

8. Eliminate Unused Grass to Conserve Water

Grass lawns typically require frequent watering to stay green and healthy. Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

By removing unused grass areas and replacing them with drought-tolerant landscaping options such as native plants or low-water-use ground covers, you significantly reduce the water needed for irrigation. Learn more in this blog post.

9. Be Thoughtful About Summer Watering to Save Water

Consider putting small containers away during the summer; they require frequent watering and dry out quickly. Add low-water-use cover crops to beds to cover the soil, reduce evaporation, and keep the soil alive rather than high-water-use plants that may struggle. Use tools like a moisture meter or a soil probe to assess when plants need water, preventing both underwatering and unnecessary watering.

Learn more tips for effective watering strategies during the summer in this blog post.

10. Water at the Right Time

Water your garden in the morning or the evening when temperatures are cooler to reduce evaporation losses. Avoid watering during windy conditions, leading to uneven water distribution and further evaporation. The best time to water is when the plants are most likely to absorb the water, usually in the early morning or late evening.

In conclusion, practicing water conservation in desert gardening isn’t just about saving water—it’s about creating a sustainable and resilient garden that thrives in harmony with its environment. Implementing these water-saving tips for desert gardening reduces your ecological footprint and enhances your garden’s beauty and productivity. Let’s work together to ensure that our gardens flourish while respecting the limited water resources of our desert landscapes.

Remember, every drop counts!

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My earliest gardening memories are with my grandparents in Indiana and Idaho. We did simple things together, like planting flowers and picking beans, but those memories have stayed with me. I wanted to have those same types of memories with my children. Here are ten tips that made involving my five kids in gardening tasks a positive experience. Use these ideas to plant the seeds of a shared love for gardening and nurture a deeper connection with your children.

Article Outline:

1. Give ownership
2. Choose easy-to-grow crops
3. Grow things they like to eat
4. Encourage and trust them
5. When you’re gardening with kids, be positive and make it enjoyable
6. Make gardening with kids a sensory experience
7. Incorporate their interests
8. Enjoy the harvests
9. Find teaching moments while you’re working together
10. Marvel at the miracles
11. Craft with Garden Harvests

1. Give ownership

Let each child take charge of a small area or container so they can have ownership and see results from their actions. This blog post teaches the basic steps for container gardening.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

2. Choose easy-to-grow crops

Plant vegetables with big seeds, such as beans and sunflowers, that are easy for small hands to handle. Choose crops with the shortest time to harvest, like radishes and peas, for quick results. Check a local planting guide (I have one in my shop) to ensure that you’re planting at the right time so that the seeds will sprout and grow well. This blog post lists ten easy-to-grow crops.

3. Grow things they like to eat

Research the crops your family enjoys eating and determine the best time and method to plant them. Do you love strawberries? Are carrots and broccoli favorites? They are excellent choices for kids’ gardens when planted at the right time. Growing their favorite foods can make gardening more exciting and rewarding for children. 

4. Encourage and trust them  

The tasks will vary depending on age and ability, but it’s essential to encourage kids to do whatever they can in the garden. We often learn more from our mistakes than our successes. It might be messier or take longer, but they will feel a sense of accomplishment. Simple jobs for young children include dumping, watering, and planting.

As children get older, look for ways to show trust in their abilities and give them more complicated jobs. They will surprise you! And most importantly, they will feel proud of their contributions. 

5. When you’re gardening with kids, be positive and make it enjoyable

Focus on the positive in their actions instead of just pointing out mistakes. Try to make it a game. If there are weeds, challenge everyone to pull 20 and “see how quickly we can finish!” Keep gardening sessions short. It’s better to do a little bit each day than to have long sessions where they get tired and worn out.

6. Make gardening with kids a sensory experience

Let children experience the sensation of dirt in their hands and the strong-smelling scents of herbs like basil and mint and flowers like sweet peas. Found a worm? Watch it wriggle on your hand for a moment before gently returning it to the soil and observing it burrow into the earth. Encourage children to listen to the sounds of nature, such as birds chirping or leaves rustling, and to observe the colors and textures of various plants.

7. Incorporate their interests

If your child is interested in science, consider getting a compost thermometer. They can use it to monitor the temperature of the compost as it heats up and learn about the science behind it. In-bed vermicomposting bins are a simple way to teach your children about the amazing world of worms. Through the years, the majority of my kids’ science projects were garden-related.

Budding artists can create plant markers using rocks or draw pictures of the plants as they grow. If they enjoy photography, encourage them to document the gardening process through photos. Incorporating each child’s interests into gardening can make gardening with children more enjoyable and meaningful.

8. Enjoy the harvests

I disliked carrots until I tried one fresh from my grandpa’s garden. Encourage your children to taste everything and “practice” liking it. Find simple recipes you can make with your children that use the garden’s produce, such as a fresh salad with lettuce and tomatoes, fresh-squeezed orange juice, or a stir-fry with freshly harvested peas and carrots. 

9. Find teaching moments while you’re working together

Beyond just learning about the origin of their food and a love for nature, life lessons are everywhere in the principles of gardening – delayed gratification, the law of the harvest, the importance of daily actions, changing seasons, and so much more! Teaching about the birds and the bees becomes natural when you are actually teaching about birds and bees. 

10. Marvel at the miracles

Kneel and point out the miracle of green sprouts emerging from the soil when gardening with your kids. Let them experience the wonder of pulling carrots from the ground that began as tiny seeds. Pause and marvel together at blossoms, insect eggs, cocoons, butterflies, and rainbows. If you spot something interesting, point it out. Before long, they will start making their own discoveries and sharing them with you.

11. Craft with Garden Harvests

There are so many fun ways to create garden crafts with your kids—some might even be useful around the house! One of my favorites is making loofah scrubbers. Check out my guide on how to make loofah scrubbers for step-by-step instructions.

If you try any of these ideas, tag me @growing.in.the.garden —I’d love to see your garden and creations!

Learn how to start a garden in this guide.

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Learn which cover crops grow well in hot climates when to plant them, and what to do at the end of the season with the tips in this blog post. 

Article Index:

1. Is it better to not plant anything during the summer? No! 
2. Why plant cover crops in hot climate areas? 
3. Which cover crops grow well in hot, dry summers? 
4. Cowpeas (black-eyed peas) as a cover crop in hot climate areas
5. Buckwheat as a heat-tolerant cover crop
6. Sweet potatoes as a heat-tolerant cover crop
7. Tithonia as a cover crop in hot climates
8. When is the best time to plant heat-tolerant cover crops in hot summer areas? 
9. What to do after cutting back cover crops

Is it better not to plant anything during the summer? No! 

Garden soil is full of life we can’t see – fungi, bacteria, protozoa, nematodes, earthworms, and more! Fungi and bacteria feed on the nutrients in the soil emitted by the plant’s roots.

The “soil food web” is missing a key component if nothing is growing. 

After spring crops are harvested and temperatures rise, it may be tempting to leave the ground bare and return when temperatures decline in the fall. However, doing this can have a detrimental effect on your soil. Bare soil will dry out, heat up, and become compacted, and the soil’s life will suffer. 

At the very least, cover your soil with a thick 3-5 inch (7-12 cm) layer of mulch and water just enough to keep the soil from drying out over the summer. 

If you don’t want to garden and want a mostly “hands-off garden” during the hottest months of the year, plant a cover crop instead. Learn more about summer gardening in Arizona in this blog post. Get more tips for surviving a heatwave in this guide.

Why plant cover crops in hot climate areas? 

Cover crops are great for capturing and recycling nutrients in your soil. Leguminous cover crops like cowpeas can even fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, enriching your soil.

Some of the benefits of growing cover crops include: 

• Cover crops can lower soil temperatures by keeping the soil surface shaded. 
• There is less water lost through evaporation from the soil’s surface. 
• Cover crops add organic matter to the soil and feed the microorganisms. 
• Over time, cover crops can improve soil fertility, structure, and moisture capacity. 
• Cover crops attract and support native and beneficial insects and pollinators.
• Summer rainfall will soak into the soil with plants and established root systems rather than running off or eroding the soil. 
• Cover crops often suppress weeds.

Looking for a cool-season cover crop? Try fava beans! For a deep dive into using fava beans as both a delicious harvest and a high-nitrogen green mulch, read my post Growing Fava Beans (Broad Beans).

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Which cover crops grow well in hot, dry summers? 

Luckily, a variety of heat-tolerant cover crops can provide these benefits. Let’s explore a few of the different types. 

1. Cowpeas (black-eyed peas) as a cover crop in hot climate areas

Black-eyed peas are legumes that can withstand high temperatures and enrich the soil through nitrogen fixation. Their deep roots absorb and retain water for growth and are a nutritious food source. Taller vining varieties produce vigorously and are well-suited for cover crops.

How to plant: Direct seed into the garden. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 4-6 inches (2.54 cm deep and 10-15 cm) apart. I plant 8-10 per square foot gardening. Get seeds here.

Time required: About 75 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 2-3 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: When they begin to bloom, cut off at soil level or pull from soil to prevent regrowth. (Remove bean pods if necessary.) Leave plants on top of the soil or cover with compost. Learn more about how to grow cowpeas in this blog post. 

2. Buckwheat as a heat-tolerant cover crop

Buckwheat is a fast grower that goes from seed to bloom in about 30 days. It is often grown as a smother crop to suppress weeds. You can get seeds here. It is less heat-tolerant than some of the other cover crops. Plant buckwheat up until May for best results.

Good to know: Follow buckwheat plantings with transplants rather than seeds because buckwheat is allelopathic and may deter seed germination the following season.¹

How to plant: Scatter seeds about 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Seeds sprout quickly. 

Time required: 30-40 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 1-2 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: Cut back buckwheat during blooming to prevent seed formation and dropping. Cut off at soil level. Leave plants on top of the soil or cover with compost. 

3. Sweet potatoes as a heat-tolerant cover crop

With a long growing season, deep roots, and sprawling vines, sweet potatoes are an easy-to-grow cover crop option that produces edible leaves and tubers (depending on when you harvest them). 

How to plant: Plant sweet potatoes from slips (learn how to make sweet potato slips in this post), spaced 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) apart.

Time required: 90-120 days before cutting back (you can cut back sooner if you don’t want edible tubers). Plant in bed 3-4 weeks after cutting back.

When to cut back: Cut back leaves 2-3 weeks before your desired planting date. After cutting off leaves, dig at the base of the plant and remove any developed tubers (sweet potatoes!), then pile leaves on the soil. Leave plants on top of the soil to break down. You may want to compost the leaves rather than leaving or burying them to prevent unwanted sweet potatoes from growing in your bed. Learn more about how to grow sweet potatoes in this blog post.

4. Tithonia as a cover crop in hot climates

Tithonia is a large plant that produces a significant amount of plant matter. This vegetation decomposes quickly and may improve soil fertility as a chop-and-drop mulch. 

How to plant: Allow 2 feet (0.61 m) between plants. Seeds can take 10-15 days to germinate. Consider starting seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your desired planting date. Tithonia seeds need light to germinate; cover lightly (¼ inch / .6 cm) with soil. Click here for seeds.

Time required: 60-90 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 2-3 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: Cut back before stems become woody and the flowers produce seeds. (Remove seed heads if necessary.) Chop up plant matter and leave it on top of the soil. Learn more about how to grow tithonia in this blog post.

Please note: Tithonia is allelopathic and can inhibit the growth of some plants and seeds. Follow tithonia with transplants. However, studies demonstrate that due to increased soil fertility, using tithonia as a soil amendment may increase the growth rate of some plants.¹

Mahogany Splendor hibiscus is another standout heat-tolerant option with bold burgundy foliage that thrives in full sun. Read more here: How to Grow Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus

When is the best time to plant heat-tolerant cover crops in hot summer areas? 

Begin planting cover crops after spring, and early-summer vegetables finish from about May through June or early July. You may also be able to plant later. Count back from your desired fall planting date to see if there is enough time for the crop to germinate, grow, and die back.

Monitor seed-grown crops and keep the soil moist until the crop germinates. Once crops germinate, give cover crops water as needed throughout the growing season.

These heat-tolerant cover crops are somewhat drought-tolerant, so overwatering is unnecessary. Monitor the crops as they grow, and cut back at the appropriate time. 

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

What to do after cutting back cover crops

See the individual cover crops for the specifics about how and when to cut them back. In most cases, you will cut the cover crop off at the soil level and leave the crop on the surface as mulch. Leave the roots in the ground, as they’ll continue to add organic matter and nutrients to your soil.

The plant matter from your cover crops is an excellent source of organic matter and nutrients for your soil. Instead of removing the cuttings, leave them on the surface of your raised beds. Over time, they will decompose and improve soil structure, water retention, and fertility.

You can also top with a layer of compost or incorporate the crop into the top few inches of soil. Topping with compost can speed up the decomposition process.

Generally, wait at least two weeks before planting the next crop. To plant, move the residue aside and plant your seeds or seedlings. Then, move the residue back around the plant to serve as mulch.

Sources used in this article and further reading:

• Cover Crops: Types, Benefits, And Tips On How To Use
• Cover Cropping to Improve Climate Resilience
• SARE. 2007. Managing Cover Crops Profitably, 3^rd edition. Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education, College Park, MD.
• Buckwheat. August 2002. Hector Valenzuela and Jody Smith, Departments of Tropical Plant and Soil Sciences and Natural Resources and Environmental Management, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Hawaii at Manoa.
• Allelopathic effect of Tithonia diversifolia on the germination, growth, and chlorophyll contents of maize. January 2009. Rebecca Oyerinde, University of the Witwatersrand. O. O. Otusanya, Oghenerobor Akpor, Afe Babalola University.

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Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.

Food Forest Benefits

A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.

The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.

Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests

Understanding Chill Hours:

To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.

In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range.  If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.

Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.

Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones

When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.

Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests

Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.

Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona

Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (January – March Harvests)

• Navel Orange
• Cara Cara Red Navel
• Minneola Tangelo
• Blood Oranges
• Variegated Pink Eureka Lemon
• Most varieties of Grapefruits
• Valencia Oranges (through May)

Arizona Food Forest Spring Fruits (April – June Harvests)

• Katy Apricot
• Gold Kist Apricot
• Bonanza Miniature Peach
• Earligrande Peach
• Desert Gold Peach
• Tropical Beauty Peach
• Eva’s Pride Peach
• Methley Plum
• Dwarf Mulberry
• White Pakistan Mulberry
• Everbearing Mulberry
• Guava Kilo
• Thai White Guava
• Dwarf Black Mulberry (also fruits in fall)
• Wolfberry (also fruits in fall)
• Anna Apple

Summer Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (July – September Harvests)

• Early Amber Peach
• Mid-Pride Peach
• Donut Peach
• Janice Seedless Kadota Fig – see fig growing guide
• Desert King Fig
• Red Flame Seedless Grape
• Mexican Lime (can fruit all year)
• Biew Kiew Longan
• Banana (also fruits in fall)
• Dorsett Golden Apple
• Flordahome Pear
• Jojoba

Arizona Food Forest Fall Fruits (October – December Harvests)

• Kieffer Pear
• Contorted Jujube
• Li Jujube
• Parfianka Pomegranate
• Wonderful Pomegranate
• Koroneiki Olive
• Manzanillo Olive
• Sugar Cane (also harvested in early winter)
• Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Kumquats (through March)
• Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
• Eureka Lemon
• Lisbon Lemon
• Bearss Lime
• Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)

These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.

Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees

Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.

• Prune and thin trees for health and productivity. Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.
• Maintain soil fertility using organic compost and mulches. Learn how to organically feed fruit trees in this post.
• Use organic approaches to pest and disease management to keep your ecosystem balanced.

Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest

When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.

Note:

This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on fruit trees, vegetables, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey

When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:

• Local Agricultural Extension Office: These folks are a goldmine of knowledge on regional-specific planting.
• Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
• Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
• “Gaia’s Garden“ by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
• “Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth” – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein. A comprehensive guide to creating your own home ecosystem.

Remember, don’t just rely on one source; tap into several to get a well-rounded view.

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If you’re curious about how to create a permaculture food forest, you’ve come to the right place.

What is it? In simple terms, a permaculture food forest is a garden that imitates the structure and function of a natural forest. It contains various plants, including fruits, nuts, herbs, and vegetables. The garden is arranged in layers (like a natural forest), with trees, shrubs, ground cover plants, and vines. These plants coexist, support each other’s growth, and establish a harmonious ecosystem.

A food forest yields a rich variety of food and resources for you and creates a beneficial environment for local wildlife.

10 Practical Tips for Creating a Permaculture Food Forest

1. Gather information about your property

Before you start planting, get to know your property. Observe your surroundings. Notice the natural paths of water, wind, and sunlight throughout the year and their effect on your property. Take notes and try to discover the patterns. Research and try to discover the implications of your observations.

• What are the measurements of the property?
• What are the microclimates?
• Where are the utilities located?
• Which hardscaping elements will stay or be changed?
• What are the known challenges?
• What structures are on the property?
• Where would any planned structures need to be located?
• What is the condition of the soil? Test the soil so that you understand any underlying issues.

Large or complicated properties can be challenging to navigate. Consider hiring an expert. A trained professional may help you avoid costly mistakes. They can evaluate space limitations, drainage, sun exposure, and other factors to ensure your food forest will thrive.

If you do this step on your own, spend time reading permaculture books to familiarize yourself with the key principles. Some of my favorite permaculture books include:

• Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture – Toby Hemenway
• Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein

Permaculture principles applied to small spaces and containers:

• Container Gardening—The Permaculture Way: Sustainably Grow Vegetables and More in Your Small Space – Valéry Tsimba

2. Understand the vision for the property and implement goals to make it happen

Now that you are beginning to understand your property, it’s time to decide what you want to achieve with your food forest. Create a vision statement of what you would like the property to become. This is also a good time to consider the time and resources you wish to devote to the project and ongoing maintenance.

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

• Do you want a wide variety of fruit to eat every day of the year?
• How much of your food would you like to grow?
• Would you like to grow rare or unusual fruit?
• Are animals or other livestock included in your vision?
• What plans for water or energy conservation do you have?

Now, set goals to implement that vision. Consider how to meet the needs of everyone who lives on your property. Include as much detail as possible in your plans. Your goals will determine what, where, and how much you plant.

Write your vision and goals down and keep them in mind as you build your food forest.

3. Evaluate and improve the soil 

You may not be able to implement all the goals and food forest plans at once but begin by improving the soil.

No matter what or when you plant, it needs good soil to grow well. Adding a thick layer of compost and wood chips is a simple way to improve your soil. If you live in a dry climate, begin watering. Adding compost, wood chips, and water makes your soil come alive in preparation for planting.

4. Learn which plants grow best in your climate for each permaculture layer

In a food forest, you’ll have different layers: canopy, low tree level, shrub level, and herbaceous level. Each layer supports various types of plants. Take the time to learn which plants grow best in your climate for each layer and plan your food forest accordingly.

If you live in a mild winter climate, these posts about perennial herbs and other perennial crops may help. For other climates, find local growers or check with your extension office for planting resources.

5. Plan fruit tree guilds in your food forest

Fruit tree guilds are groups of plants that work together to support the fruit tree. Look to existing local plant groupings for guidelines of what is already working well in your climate. Choose resilient plants that offer different benefits to one another.

For example, planting nitrogen-fixing plants can help fertilize the soil and benefit the fruit tree. Other plants may help keep pests away and provide nutrients to the soil or provide leaf litter for mulch.

10 Practical Tips for Creating a Permaculture Food Forest (cont.)

6. Plant suitable varieties for your climate

It is essential to understand chill hours, climate zones, and their impact on what you can grow. If you live in an area with low chill hours, you’ll need to choose trees that don’t require a lot of chill hours. Research the varieties that will do well in your particular climate before planting. If you don’t have enough chill hours for a particular fruit, the tree may grow, but it will not produce fruit.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

7. Start with trees that are easy to grow

When creating a food forest, knowing which trees will do well with minimal effort in your area is essential. For example, citrus, mulberry, fig, and pomegranate are good choices for beginners if you live in the low desert of Arizona. These trees are easy to grow, hardy, and provide abundant fruit. Growing easy-to-grow trees is a good preparation before tackling tough or finicky plants that are more difficult to grow well. Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.

Need help selecting what to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

8. Purchase small trees for planting

While larger trees may seem appealing, smaller trees (1-gallon or 5-gallon) are less expensive, easier to transport and plant, and establish roots quickly. They’re often healthier and will catch up to larger, more costly trees in just a few years. Learn more about how to plant bare-root and container fruit trees in this blog post.

9. Plant canopy trees first in your food forest

The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, and the next best time is today. Canopy trees are the largest in your food forest and form the top layer. They provide shade, shelter, and a habitat for wildlife. Planting canopy trees first helps create the microclimate that allows other plants to survive and thrive. The size of a canopy tree will vary depending on the size of your property.

10. Take pictures and videos of the process

I’ve never regretted taking ‘before’ pictures. I usually regret not taking enough and not taking video footage as well! Documenting the process of creating your food forest will allow you to see how far you’ve come.

Recording the process is also an excellent way to look back and learn from successes and mistakes. As an added bonus, before and after pictures and videos can inspire others when you share your journey.

By following these practical tips, you’ll be on your way to building a thriving permaculture food forest. With a bit of patience and hard work, you’ll enjoy a bountiful harvest. Good luck!

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However, given my location in a region with hot summers, I was uncertain about the practicality of replacing wooden beds with metal ones. Questions like “Are metal beds too hot for Arizona?” and “Do metal garden beds heat up more than wooden beds?” loomed large. I wanted to answer these questions before adding more metal beds to the garden. 

Testing to see if metal garden beds heat up more than wooden beds

For the test, I took soil temperature readings from my metal Garden In Minutes bed and cedar garden beds for about four weeks. 

Note: The Garden In Minutes metal bed is made of Aluzinc Magnesium coated steel. This type of steel is less reflective than standard galvanized or Aluzinc garden beds. (Other metal garden beds may perform differently.)

Soil Temperature Readings

Results of testing to see if metal garden beds heat up more than wooden beds

Surprisingly, the temperature difference was not as significant as I thought it might be. The outer inch of the metal beds was usually (but not always) hotter by a degree or two. However, the bed’s interior was similar for both beds. 

Incidentally, when taking additional measurements, I discovered that sun exposure, mulch, shade, and watering made a bigger difference than the bed type.

For instance, beds in direct sunlight on the western side of the garden heated up more than those on the eastern side. I also found that the soil temperature in beds with more mulch was lower than in those with less. Recently watered beds were cooler than if it had been a couple of days since watering. I didn’t record these measurements, but I plan to take additional readings next summer to document more soil temperature findings. 

Do metal beds get too hot? My conclusion:

After the test, I concluded that the benefits of the metal beds outweigh the modest heat gain on the outer edge of the bed.

1. Durability: Metal garden beds are typically more durable than their wooden counterparts. They resist rot and insect damage.
2. Ease of Maintenance: Metal garden beds are easy to clean and maintain. Metal does not absorb moisture or bacteria, which reduces the risk of disease in your plants.
3. Longevity: Galvanized metal is much more weather-resistant than wood.

After conducting this test to see if metal beds were too hot for Arizona, I decided to use metal beds. I replaced three wooden garden beds with metal ones from Garden In Minutes.

Choosing the right raised bed can be tricky, but consider Garden in Minutes’ metal beds. Their durability, longevity, and ease of maintenance make them an outstanding choice. Even in hot climates, these beds stay cool enough for your plants.

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I’ve spent the last year building new sunken garden beds in Southern Arizona. I live in the Sonoran Desert, about 25 miles from the Mexico border. This region is very hot from May through October. We do get monsoon rains from July through September, but it is very dry otherwise.

The heat, intense sun, and dry conditions create challenging conditions for gardening. However, it is possible to create a productive garden in the desert. I want to share how I’ve been able to do just that.

To begin, I had a few requirements:

• Water Efficiency: I needed to find a way to use as little water as possible. I didn’t want to spend several hours and hundreds of dollars every month watering this new space.
• Time Efficiency: I needed to find a time-efficient way to maintain my new garden. I work, so a high-maintenance garden was not for me.
• Productivity – I wanted to maximize the space to grow as much as possible. This would allow me to eat fresh, organic produce in season.

That’s a tall order for a little desert garden. I began experimenting to find a way to meet all 3 of those requirements.

History of Basin Beds in the Sonoran Desert

I am fascinated by the relationship between people, plants, and places in the Southwest region.  The Sonoran Desert is the most biodiverse desert on earth, and I love living here. Isn’t it amazing that 3500 species of plants, 500 species of birds, and 1,000 species of bees call this beautiful region home? I’m learning all I can about the history of this place and the people who thrived in such a beautiful yet challenging environment.

I read a book, “Growing Food in a Hotter, Drier Land” (2013), by one of my favorite authors – Gary Nabhan – an ethnobotanist in the Southwest. 

The U.S. Forest Service defines ethnobotany as “the study of how people of a particular culture and region use indigenous (native) plants.” 

Through Gary Nabhan’s book, I began learning about many different gardening methods in arid climates. One of them stood out as a possibility for my garden: basin beds, also known as sunken beds.

What is a sunken garden bed or basin bed?

Basin or sunken garden beds were used by the indigenous peoples in this part of the Southwest. Basin beds function just as any traditional garden bed or raised bed, but are recessed or sunken. 

Sunken beds are dug down several inches, allowing irrigation water to slowly sink in rather than run off and keep soil and roots cooler during hot seasons. 

Since I didn’t have to construct a raised bed, the start-up costs were low. Using a basin-style sunken bed would help me with the water and heat challenges, but what about the time efficiency and productivity piece?

Combining Basin Beds with Square Foot Gardening

I’m sure many of you have heard of the square foot gardening method, introduced in 1981 on a wide scale when Mel Bartholomew published his book, “Square Foot Gardening.” In this book, Bartholomew introduced a straightforward method to save time, effort, and space in gardening. 

Instead of long rows and wide paths between, he focused on using a 4ft by 4 ft square to grow intensively in a small space. Along with the 4×4 design, Bartholomew increased productivity through intercropping, succession planting, and amending the soil. If you haven’t read this book and want to garden in a small space, on a small budget, or with a busy life, I highly recommend it. Learn more about succession planting in this guide.

I combined the two methods, sunken basin beds and square foot gardening, into one hybrid method. Maybe then I could get all the benefits of each.

Sunken Garden Beds Step One: Test Your Soil

An in-ground garden bed will only be as good as its soil, so the first thing I did was take some soil samples. A local lab tested the soil to give me an idea of the soil makeup and which amendments I needed to add. I chose the “Complete Soil Test with Soil Amendment Recommendations” for $85, which included a nutrient analysis of my soil profile and amendment suggestions. 

I started with a very bleak space; not much of anything was growing here, except for wild amaranth and Bermuda grass, so I was surprised when the test results came in a few days later, showing I didn’t need to amend much. 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Two: Remove Unwanted Vegetation and Weeds

My chosen garden area had Bermuda grass that needed removal before installing the new beds. The simplest way to remove vegetation is to use solar energy to do the hard work, something we have plenty of in the Southwest.

Two methods create a greenhouse effect and work well for this task: solarization and occultation. 

Solarization controls unwanted vegetation by covering the area with clear plastic. The 2 – 6 mil thickness plastic allows solar energy to penetrate, heating up the soil and creating a greenhouse effect that smothers the vegetation in as little as 3 weeks. 

Occultation is similar to solarization but uses a black plastic tarp instead of a clear one. This process takes longer as the black material absorbs solar energy and reduces the heat passed to the vegetation. A heavy opaque plastic, called a silage tarp, is used and the process takes 4-6 weeks.

An additional benefit of both solarization and occultation is the reduction of pathogen and nematode populations in the soil below.

I used occultation and laid a thick silage tarp to cook the weeds and seeds underneath for 6 weeks. When I removed the tarp, just like magic, there was nothing but bare earth and some decomposing plant material.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Three: Make a Plan for the Space

I planned just four beds in the beginning. Every gardener knows that plans tend to grow exponentially, and I ended up with twelve beds. For now, let’s focus on those first four beds! 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Four: Dig Out Beds and Add Compost

I measured out and marked an exact 4ft x 4ft square. After digging down 6 inches, I removed that soil. I mixed the native soil with compost in a 50/50 mix and then filled the beds with a little of that mixture. I ended up with a bed recessed by about 4 inches. 

Now, you may be thinking…“wouldn’t doing that remove all the good soil you had tested?” The answer is…not at all! When doing a soil test, you dig down about 6 inches to the root zone, where the plant will be accessing all that goodness. That is still there once I dig out the top, so what I’m doing is adding some amendment in the form of compost to the top while leaving the soil in the root zone intact. 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Five: Create Pathways Between Beds

My backyard is covered in Bermuda grass, and if you’ve ever dealt with it, you know it’s tough to eliminate. I decided to cover the ground with landscape fabric around the garden beds and then layer wood chips to smother and suppress the Bermuda grass. This was after using a silage tarp for occultation before beginning the garden project. That’s how tough it is to get rid of the stuff!

Generally, I don’t like to use landscape fabric. I think it’s best for soil health to cover the ground with a thick layer of untreated wood chips. This keeps weeds in check and adds organic matter to the soil as the wood breaks down. When planning this garden area, I made an exception. 

Sunken Square Garden Beds Step Six: Add a Square Foot Garden Grid and Border

Once the beds were dug and amended, I needed to make a square-foot garden grid. To save time in measuring, I made a template grid that I could use each time I plant a new bed. I used 4ft. green plastic garden stakes, measured and marked 1 ft sections, and fastened them with outdoor-rated zip ties that will withstand the high UV here better. Using a grid template allowed me to plant each square quickly.

I used the tons of rock around my property as a border for all of my garden beds. It’s rustic, but I’m happy with the results. Best of all, it was free! 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Seven: Plant Desert-Adapted Varieties 

The next step was to select varieties of plants that are well-suited to this region of southern Arizona. I start nearly all my plants from seed, but if you don’t want to sow seeds, many great organizations in the area sell arid-adapted seedlings at seasonal plant sales. 

After moving from the Midwest nearly 20 years ago, one of the first gardening lessons I learned was that what grew there probably won’t grow here. Varieties matter, so choose wisely! There are so many varieties that perform well here. Don’t be afraid to explore!

I planted herbs and flowers amongst my vegetables (polyculture style), hoping this would give a habitat to many different pollinators and beneficial insects.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Eight: Add Mulch and Shade 

Next, I added mulch to the top to prevent moisture loss and shade cloth in certain areas.

I use shade cloth when planting new seedlings. The sun here is very intense, and it takes those little seedlings a while to toughen up. Shade cloth is also important to use in certain seasons for established plants. 

Adding Long Basin Beds

Late this summer, I dug a new bed – the garden is never done, remember? This time I wanted to experiment with a long basin bed, rather than a 4×4 square. The new garden bed was 3 feet wide and 28 feet long. 

I am a little (okay, a lot) obsessed with the beauty and variety of dried beans and wanted to grow them. So, I added a new long bed with a cattle panel down the middle. This would allow me to grow pole beans down the center and other crops along the bottom.

I made the most of that space, growing beans, okra, squash, roselle, and zinnias. This bed became a superhighway of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. It was a great success; I’m putting in a second long bed this fall. Because, you guessed it, the garden is never done!

The Result: A Thriving Garden in the Desert 

Overall, I’m so pleased with the results of this gardening season. I’ve happily watched this dusty, bare backyard transform into a space alive with color and the hum of pollinators. I’ve learned a few lessons, of course, that I’ll change next season, but that’s true of any garden. I don’t think a garden is ever truly finished – there is always something new to learn and just one more plant to add. 

Most importantly, I’ve done almost no weeding and only had to water the beds twice a week during the hottest part of the year. As the temperatures cool, I will change the watering schedule to once a week. This winter, I’ll install rainwater harvesting tanks to water the garden, reducing the water I must pay for.

Sunken garden beds are an effective, water-wise, efficient, and affordable option for any space

• Even if you have a small space, one of these sunken square-foot garden beds will allow you to grow a surprising amount of food.
• If you have little money to start a garden, this method can fit any budget.
• If you’re short on time, gardening this way can be done in just a few minutes a day. 

I hope this encourages you that any space, no matter the size, the climate, or the time constraints, can be a place for you to sow your dreams.

Kara Adams is a gardener and writer from the Southwest who is passionate about the interconnection between plants, people, and places. Her love for all things growing has blossomed into a lifelong commitment to the art and science of gardening.

Kara is an advocate for sustainable gardening practices and environmental stewardship. She creates written content and educational videos on Sonoran Desert plants, gardening practices, and soil health. Her topics include organic gardening, pollinator-friendly landscapes, and water-efficient gardening practices.
Follow Kara on her journey through the garden, where her love for it continues to bloom, one word and video at a time. You can follow along with her journey on YouTube and Instagram.

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