What This Post Covers

• What to Put Under a Raised Bed
• How Tall Should Raised Beds Be?
• How to Fill Tall Raised Beds (Over 18 Inches)
• Don’t Forget In-Bed Vermicomposting Bins
• How to Fill Raised Garden Beds With the Right Soil Mix
• First-Year Fertility Tips
• Why Soil Level Drops Over Time
• Frequently Asked Questions: How to Fill Raised Garden Beds

What to Put Under a Raised Bed

Before adding any soil, take a close look at what’s underneath your bed.

• If your yard has decorative rock, pull it back so the bed sits directly on the soil beneath.
• Plain soil? Set the bed directly on top without any issues.
• If you have Bermuda grass, line the bottom of the bed with several layers of overlapping cardboard. This helps smother the grass and prevent it from growing up into your raised bed. For even more protection, add a layer of water-permeable fabric weed barrier underneath the cardboard. The fabric allows water to drain while keeping stubborn Bermuda roots from invading your bed.

To see step-by-step methods for dealing with Bermuda grass before installing raised beds, read this guide on how to remove Bermuda grass.

Tip: I like to dig down a few inches and bury my raised beds slightly. This gives you the benefits of a raised bed—defined space, improved soil, and easier access–along with the cooler soil temperatures of in-ground gardening. This is especially helpful in hot climates.

How Tall Should Raised Beds Be?

Most of my raised beds are 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) tall, and I recommend filling them all the way to the top with high-quality raised bed mix.

If your beds are taller than that, you have the option to use filler material in the bottom. This helps reduce costs and still creates excellent growing conditions for your plants.

How to Fill Tall Raised Beds (Over 18 Inches / 45 cm)

If your raised bed is taller than 18 inches (45 cm), you don’t need to fill the entire thing with raised bed mix. You can use logs, branches, or mulch in the lower section to save on soil costs and improve long-term soil health.

This method is based on the idea of hugelkultur, which uses organic material like wood to fill the bottom portion of a raised bed. As the wood breaks down, it enriches the soil and helps retain moisture.

If you’re wondering how to fill raised garden beds without wasting soil or spending too much money, here’s what I recommend.

How Much Filler to Use

The amount of filler you use depends on the total height of your bed. You can use up to several feet of logs or branches if the bed is tall enough. The most important part is to ensure that the top 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) is filled with quality raised bed mix. That top layer is where plant roots will grow and where good soil matters most.

Quick Tip
For extra-tall beds, fill the bottom portion with natural wood like logs or branches, then top off the final 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) with high-quality raised bed soil.

What to Use

• Logs or branches from untreated, natural wood. Firewood works well.
• Coarse mulch or compost if logs are not available.

Avoid using treated lumber, plywood, or any wood that has been painted or stained. These materials can leach chemicals into the soil and harm your plants.

Mulch vs. Logs – Which Is Better?

• Logs and branches decompose slowly and hold their shape longer. They help build healthy soil over time and improve structure and moisture retention.
• Mulch or compost breaks down more quickly and works well too, but the soil will settle significantly during the first season. If you use mulch as the main filler, be prepared to add more soil sooner to keep the bed filled.

How to Fill Raised Garden Beds With the Right Soil Mix

If your raised bed is 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) tall, fill it all the way up with quality raised bed mix.

For years, I mixed my own using a combination of compost, coconut coir, perlite, worm castings, and other ingredients. You can learn how to make your own in this guide to raised bed soil.

Now I work with Arizona Worm Farm, they created a custom mix that includes:

• Organic compost
• Coconut coir
• Perlite
• Basalt rock dust
• High-quality worm castings

If you live in the Phoenix valley, it is worth the drive to pick some up, and they also offer delivery.

For gardeners outside of Arizona, look for a local supplier that offers a raised bed mix made with fresh compost, a moisture-retaining material like coir or peat, a drainage aid like perlite or vermiculite, and worm castings. These are the key ingredients to look for in a raised bed mix.

Wondering what terms like “compost” or “vermiculite” really mean? My Gardening Glossary explains practical gardening vocabulary in plain language, so you always know what to do in your garden.

Don’t Forget In-Bed Vermicomposting Bins

As you fill your beds, it’s a great time to add an in-bed worm composting bin. It’s simple to set up and gives your garden a steady supply of worm castings right where your plants need them.

Learn how to make one in this guide to in-bed worm composting. From soil amendments to watering essentials, these are my go-to garden supplies.

First-Year Fertility Tips

The first season in a new raised bed is often the hardest. Even with great compost and soil, the microbiology in your soil hasn’t had time to develop yet.

To help your plants grow well their first season, I recommend adding a balanced organic fertilizer when you plant. This gives your garden a good start while soil biology gets established.

Over time, your soil improves with each season—especially if you consistently amend with compost and worm castings. I usually do this twice a year, in spring and fall. Here’s a guide that walks through how to amend garden soil.

Why Soil Level Drops Over Time

It’s normal for the soil level in your raised bed to settle over time. That’s a good sign. It means the organic matter is being used and broken down by your plants and soil life.

Just add more compost and worm castings as needed to keep the bed full and thriving.

Frequently Asked Questions: How to Fill Raised Garden Beds

Understanding how to fill raised garden beds properly makes all the difference. With the right layers and soil care, your garden improves over time.

The post How to Fill Raised Garden Beds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Bermuda grass can feel impossible to get rid of, especially in hot climates like Arizona. It spreads fast, grows deep, and quickly takes over garden spaces. If you’re wondering how to remove Bermuda grass organically and start a raised bed garden, you’re in the right place.

In the spring of 2020, we decided to expand our backyard garden, but unlike other parts of the yard, this area was full of Bermuda grass. Before we could plant anything, we had to address the issue. In this post, I’ll show you exactly how we removed Bermuda grass without chemicals and created a productive, low-maintenance raised bed garden.

This 10-step process is chemical-free and beginner-friendly. I’m also sharing answers to the most common questions I get about removing Bermuda grass and keeping it from coming back.

What We Will Cover

• Why We Removed Bermuda Grass
• Our 10-Step Process to Remove Bermuda Grass Organically and Install Raised Beds
  • Step 1: Make a Plan
  • Step 2: Remove the Top Layer of Bermuda Grass
  • Step 3: Rough-In the Irrigation System
  • Step 4: Lay Landscape Fabric
  • Step 5: Assemble and Place the Raised Beds
  • Step 6: Layer Cardboard Inside the Beds
  • Step 7: Fill Beds with Soil
  • Step 8: Finish the Irrigation System
  • Step 9: Add Mulch Between the Beds
  • Step 10: Plant Your Garden
• FAQ: Removing Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals

Why We Removed Bermuda Grass

We wanted to expand our backyard garden, but Bermuda grass covered the entire area. Since our kids still use the lawn, we left a grassy section and created a clear, durable border between the grass and new garden beds using concrete curbing.

We knew that simply removing the grass wouldn’t be enough. Bermuda grass spreads underground and will find any opportunity to grow back. Our approach included multiple layers of physical barriers and intentional garden design.

Our 10-Step Process to Remove Bermuda Grass Organically and Install Raised Beds

Step 1: Make a Plan

Decide how much lawn to remove and where your garden will go. Use durable edging like concrete or metal to separate garden areas from lawn. Map out your raised bed layout, keeping sun exposure, irrigation access, and pathways in mind.

Need help? Read 10 Tips for Designing Raised Bed Gardens.

Step 2: Remove the Top Layer of Bermuda Grass

Time: Half-day to full day

We tackled this project in the early spring while Bermuda grass was dormant. Using a sod cutter rented from Home Depot, we removed the top 4 to 6 inches of winter grass and roots. This cuts down regrowth dramatically.

We rolled up the removed sod and gave it to someone who was redoing their yard.

Tip: Most Bermuda roots are in the top 6 inches, but many rhizomes can grow deeper. Remove as much as possible.

Step 3: Rough-In the Irrigation System

Time: Depends on amount of beds.

We placed pieces of weed cloth to represent our raised beds and tried out a few different layouts before deciding. Then, we converted one sprinkler head into a drip line and capped the rest.

We ran a main drip line between bed locations and stubbed out short lines for each bed.

Want to know more? See my post on the best way to water raised beds.

Step 4: Lay Landscape Fabric

Time: 1 to 2 hours

Next, we laid permeable landscape fabric across the entire cleared area. This allows water and nutrients through but blocks light to prevent Bermuda regrowth. Secure the edges with landscape staples and overlap pieces to avoid gaps.

Pro Tip: Choose heavy-duty fabric—not plastic sheeting.

Step 5: Assemble and Place the Raised Beds

Time: 20 min to 1 hour per bed

We used raised beds and placed them directly on top of the landscape fabric. If you’re building your own beds, now is the time to install them and level them. Here’s a link to the beds I like to use from Garden in in Minutes. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

For layout tips, see Raised Bed Garden Design.

Step 6: Layer Cardboard Inside the Beds

Time: 30 minutes

We added a layer of cardboard inside each bed as another way to smother Bermuda grass. The large shipping boxes from the garden beds and watering grids worked perfectly.

Tip: Overlap pieces and remove any plastic tape or labels. Wet the cardboard to help it stay in place and begin breaking down.

Step 7: Fill Beds with Soil

Time: 15-30 minutes per bed

We used a blend of compost, peat moss, and vermiculite, the mix I’ve used for years in all my raised beds. Arizona Worm Farm now makes this mix for me, and if you’re in the Phoenix Valley, it’s definitely worth the trip. They use their own high-quality compost and worm castings to create a rich, balanced soil that’s ready for planting. It’s fantastic stuff and has made a big difference in how well my garden grows. My guide on how to fill a raised bed explains what to add initially and how to keep improving soil season after season.

Learn more in my post on The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening.

Stuck on gardening vocabulary like compost, vermiculite, and worm castings? The Gardening Glossary has your back.

Step 9: Add Mulch Between the Beds

Time: Half-day

We covered the exposed landscape fabric between beds with a thick layer of wood chips. This helps block light, reduce weeds, and give the garden a tidy look.

You can buy mulch or use free chips from ChipDrop.com. I’m currently using wood chip mulch from Arizona Worm Farm and love it.

Step 10: Plant Your Garden

Time: Ongoing

With everything in place, we planted seeds and transplants suited to the season. Using my Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide.

FAQ: Removing Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals

Final Thoughts

Bermuda grass is tough, but it doesn’t have to stop you from starting a garden. With a thoughtful plan and consistent effort, you can transform a lawn into a beautiful and productive space without using chemicals. This method has worked well in my Arizona garden, and the Bermuda grass hasn’t returned.

Looking for alternatives to traditional grass? Learn more about low-water-use ground covers like Kurapia that thrive in desert conditions.

Want help planning your raised bed garden?
Check out my Raised Bed Garden Design Guide and Arizona Vegetable Planting Calendar.

Want more water-saving tips?

If this post was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Remove Bermuda Grass Organically and Install Raised Beds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Although traditionally planted in mounds, I wanted to adapt the Three Sisters method to square-foot gardening in raised beds, which is how most of my garden is planted. I’m sharing the spacing, planting times, and tips, along with what I learned by trying the Three Sisters method in raised beds.

What we’ll cover:

• How to Plant a Three Sisters Garden in a Raised Bed (Layout)
• Best Varieties for Your Three Sisters Garden
• When to Plant Your Three Sisters Garden
• Growing Tips for Your Three Sisters Raised Bed Garden
• Harvesting Tips & Observations from My Garden
• Quick Summary

How to Plant a Three Sisters Garden in a Raised Bed (Layout)

I planted my Three Sisters garden in three of my 4×8 raised beds. Here’s the layout I used successfully:

• Corn: Two rows down the center of each bed, spacing roughly 8-12 inches apart (about 12–16 stalks per bed). Initially, I planted corn seeds directly, but found the soil was still too cool, so the seeds didn’t sprout. Using transplants for the spring planting was much more successful.
  
• Beans: Once the corn was 6 inches to a foot tall, I planted one pole bean seed at the base of each corn stalk (16 bean plants per bed). Use bean transplants if the soil is still cool.
  
• Squash: I planted two squash plants on each of the long sides of the bed (four squash plants total). The end of my beds already had flowers and roses, so the squash plants occupied the side spaces. Using squash transplants was helpful if the soil was still cool.
  

If you are gardening in containers, consider trying a Three Sisters grow bag garden instead.

Best Varieties for Your Three Sisters Garden

These varieties grew well for me and are reliable performers:

• Corn: Silver Queen
  
• Beans: Rattlesnake and Kentucky Wonder Pole Beans
  
• Squash: Black Beauty Summer Squash, Waltham Butternut, or Block Party F1 Butternut (a newer hybrid variety)
  

When to Plant Your Three Sisters Garden

General Planting Guidelines (most climates):

• Corn: Plant seeds or transplants once the danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures reach at least 55°F (13°C)—typically May in cooler climates. Learn how to check the soil temperature in this guide.
  
• Pole Beans: Plant seeds or transplants around corn stalks when the corn is about 6–12 inches tall.
  
• Squash: Plant seeds or transplants roughly two weeks after beans sprout, or when beans are several inches tall. This gives corn and beans a head start and prevents squash from overwhelming them.
  

Low Desert (Arizona) Specific Planting Windows:

• Spring Planting: Begin planting February 15 – March (you may need to use transplants if the soil is still cool).
  
• Monsoon Planting: July – August (the soil will be warm enough for direct seeding).
  

Experiment to determine the timing that works best in your garden.

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

See it in my shop

Growing Tips for Your Three Sisters Raised Bed Garden

Here are some tips that helped me get the most from my raised-bed setup:

• Soil preparation: Corn is a heavy feeder. Before planting, I amended my raised beds with compost and plenty of worm castings. Learn more about the best soil for raised beds.
• Fertilizing: I fertilized corn plants twice during the growing season with AgroThrive fertilizer. It’s organic, easy to use, and effective.
• Watering consistently: Raised beds dry out quickly. Regular, deep watering is crucial. Read my tips on how to water raised bed gardens.
• Sunlight: Choose a location with full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily). I used shade cloth over part of my garden once daytime temperatures topped 90°F.
• Managing beans: Beans climb rapidly. Keep an eye on the vines. Unwrap any that tangle around the corn ears or the tassles. You can top the vine to keep it from growing taller than the corn.
• Supporting vines: Winter squash vines need room to grow. I planted winter squash in the raised bed next to my arch trellises, allowing the vines to climb and spread.

If you’re new to square-foot planting, check out my tips for growing a square-foot garden.

Harvesting Tips & Observations from My Garden

• Harvesting: Beans and summer squash were ready to harvest first, followed by corn. The bean harvest started off slow but picked up quickly as the corn matured.
• Pollination: Pollination was about 80% successful (yay!) with minimal hand-pollination effort.
• Beneficial insects and pests: I was happy to see ladybugs and lacewings, but surprisingly few pests. Normally, I see worms when growing corn, but not this year. The beans showed whitefly damage (especially lower next to the soil), but it didn’t seem to hinder production or get out of hand.
• Supporting corn stalks: Most corn stalks remained upright, supported by bean vines, but a few fell due to the wind. To keep them upright until harvest, I used wooden stakes and coated wire.

What’s next? After removing the corn, I left several pole bean plants in place and planted okra in its place. I’m curious to see if the beans will climb the okra and continue producing—a fun experiment in companion planting and crop succession. The winter squash should continue to grow well; it has several fruits on the vine and is happily climbing the trellis.

Quick Summary

Growing a Three Sisters garden in raised beds was productive and surprisingly easy. I harvested an impressive amount of corn, beans, and squash from a relatively small space.

Using transplants early in the season gave the garden a helpful head start while waiting for the soil to warm. Direct seeding may be more successful during the monsoon planting when the soil is warmer. I wouldn’t adjust the spacing—it worked well—but I may adjust the timing of planting beans next time to prevent them from tangling with the corn tassels before pollen is released.

If you’ve been considering planting a Three Sisters garden, it’s definitely worth trying. Feel free to comment below with your experiences or questions.

The post How to Grow a Three Sisters Garden in Raised Beds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

With thoughtful backyard garden design, you can grow more than you might think. Whether you’re starting from scratch or reworking what you already have, I hope these backyard layout ideas and raised bed garden design tips help you plan a space that’s productive, flexible, and uniquely your own.

In this post, I’m sharing the layout and design strategies behind my backyard garden. I’ll walk you through how I’ve organized the space over time, how I adjust for the seasons, and how I take advantage of the microclimates in my yard.

Want to see how it all comes together? Watch the full video tour:

Backyard Layout Overview

My backyard layout includes:

• A central garden area (~2,000 sq ft)
• A shaded side yard (~324 sq ft)
• Functional corners for composting, containers, and fruit trees
• Family zones like a pergola, pool, sport court, trampoline, and gathering spaces

This garden didn’t happen all at once—it evolved over time as our family and needs changed. When I first started gardening, we had young kids who needed open lawn space to play. As they grew, we gradually converted more of the yard into a productive garden.

My Backyard Garden Design Goals

From the beginning, I had a few key goals in mind:

• Build a productive raised bed garden design that makes the most of the space we have.
• Maximize sun and shade throughout the seasons to support year-round growing.
• Maximize usable garden areas, whether for planting, composting, or storage.
• Keep areas for family recreation, entertaining, and being together outdoors.

Planning a Flexible Backyard Garden Design

Create a space that grows and adapts with your needs by keeping these backyard layout ideas in mind:

• Start with sunlight. Observe how sun and shade shift throughout the year before deciding where to place your garden. A spot that gets 6–8 hours of sunlight, especially with morning sun and afternoon shade, is ideal for your raised beds.
• Design raised beds to fit your space. For long-term productivity, build beds that are both functional and accessible. Four feet wide is ideal for most people to reach across, and three feet between beds allows room to move, plant, and harvest. Bed length depends on your available space. Learn more in this guide.
• Place trellises on the north side of beds to prevent them from shading other crops.
• Convert turf as your needs change. As kids grow or recreation priorities shift, consider replacing unused grass with garden beds, fruit trees, or gathering areas.
• Incorporate dual-purpose zones. A basketball court can double as a pickleball court. Poles can hold café lights most of the year and shade cloth during the hottest months.
• Make space for function. Areas with less-than-ideal sunlight are perfect for compost bins, rain barrels, or a potting-up station.
• Observe water flow during rainstorms. Use that information to design with swales, berms, or rainwater harvesting features that support your garden year-round. Learn more about rain harvesting and water conservation here.
• Think seasonally. Move containers to maximize sunlight in winter and tuck them away or shade them in summer.
• Include animal spaces if desired. Shade is usually helpful in these areas.

Main Raised Bed Area Garden Design

The heart of my backyard garden is a large open area with:

• Twelve 4×8 raised beds
• Two 2×8 beds
• One 2×6 bed
• One 4×4 bed
• Sixteen whiskey barrel planters

This open part of the yard gets morning sun and some natural afternoon shade from a nearby pergola, which helps protect heat-sensitive crops. The western half of the garden benefits from the pergola’s shade, while the eastern half gets more direct afternoon sun.

To protect those beds on the eastern side, we installed tall poles that stay in place year-round, supporting café lights most of the time, and shade cloth during the hottest months. I also plant branching sunflowers in late spring down the center and along the eastern side. By mid-summer, they help filter the intense afternoon sun and provide living shade where it’s needed most.

“In summer, I use shade cloth and branching sunflowers to protect crops from the afternoon sun—one of my favorite ways to adapt backyard garden design for hot climates.”

It’s a simple and flexible solution, and one of my most effective backyard layout ideas for gardening in extreme heat. You can learn more in these posts on how we added shade to our garden and how to grow sunflowers.

My Raised Bed Garden Design Tips

I’ve refined the layout over the years to make the most of the space, sun, and seasonal changes.

Here’s what works well for me:

• Beds run north–south to capture consistent sunlight throughout the day and across the seasons.
• Containers like whiskey barrels are tucked in around the beds. They’re perfect for growing herbs year-round and rotating in seasonal flowers or greens.
• I rotate crops to support soil health and interplant herbs and flowers to attract pollinators and reduce pest pressure.
• Three-foot pathways make it easy to access and maintain the beds.
• Most beds are four feet wide, with varying lengths depending on the space.

Keeping these tips in mind will give you a functional and flexible raised bed garden design that’s easy to work with year-round. Learn raised bed mistakes to avoid in this guide.

I use Garden in Minutes raised beds in my garden—they’re durable, easy to assemble, and designed to fit their Garden Grid™ watering system perfectly. These beds are built to last 20+ years and are by far my top recommendation for raised bed gardening, especially in hot, dry climates.

Shop my favorite raised beds here and use code ANGELA10 to save $10 off $100, or ANGELA to save 7% on any order.

Once your beds are in place, the next step is deciding how to fill a raised bed so your plants have the healthiest possible start.

Container Gardening Design Tips

In addition to raised beds and in-ground planting, containers play a big role in my backyard garden design. They give me the flexibility to move plants as the seasons change and make the most of available sunlight.

Here are some of the containers I use throughout the year:

• Grow bags: A portable way to expand your garden—learn how to use grow bags here.
• Small containers: Ideal for sunny pockets and small harvests—see container gardening tips and setup ideas.
• GreenStalk vertical planters: Perfect for high-density planting in tight spaces—get my best GreenStalk growing advice.
• An elevated garden bed: Easy to access and move as your garden evolves—read how I set my elevated bed up.

Seasonal Container Strategies:

• Winter: I place containers in areas with maximum sunlight, especially where raised beds may be less productive. During cooler months, even small containers thrive.
• Summer: I move containers to areas with morning sun and afternoon shade to protect plants from intense heat. I also put small containers away to conserve water and focus on larger, more resilient setups.

Using Microclimates in Backyard Garden Design

The Back Corner:

This north-facing area is the coldest spot in the yard—perfect for a peach tree that needs winter chill, but too cold for tomatoes to survive frosts. It gets more sun in the summer and becomes usable again with the help of added shade and strategic planting.

In-Ground Planting in Sunny Zones

Along the western edge of the yard, full sun makes it perfect for in-ground planting. This area includes:

• Grapevines
• Ultra-dwarf fruit trees: Anna apples, guavas, Barbados cherry, fig, plum, and goji berries
• Seasonal plantings of annual flowers like salvia and foxglove
• Full sun vines like Mexican Orchid Vine and Pink Trumpet Vine

In-Ground Planting in Shady Zones

The northern border is less sunny, so I grow vines like skyflower, star jasmine, and honeysuckle there. Containers in this area grow slowly during winter but last longer in spring.

Side Yard: A Shady Garden That Still Produces

This east-facing side yard is more shaded, but still productive. It’s where I first started gardening, and over the years, I’ve adapted the space as my garden evolved. There are:

• Four raised beds
• In-ground planting along the fence line: skyflower, pink trumpet vine, lemon grass, sugar cane
• A shaded functional area with rain barrels, compost bins, and a potting-up table
• Two bay laurel trees

This is one of my favorite backyard layout ideas: use lower-light areas for functional garden tasks like composting. The shade keeps the compost from drying out too quickly and makes the area more comfortable to work in. Learn how to compost in this guide.

Design Takeaways from My Backyard Garden

Here are a few simple, effective backyard garden design tips I’ve learned over the years:

• Understand your sun and shade patterns—they should guide your layout.
• Group crops by light and season, so each area supports the plants best suited to it.
• Use shade cloth, sunflowers, or pergolas to control heat and sun exposure.
• Place containers in prime seasonal locations, and move them as needed.
• Make every area useful—even tucked-away corners can host compost bins or work areas.

Thanks for exploring my backyard garden layout. Whether you’re starting fresh or reworking your space, good design and a clear understanding of your yard can help you grow more, no matter the size.

More Backyard Garden Design Resources

– Garden Layout Planning Guide
– Small-Space Gardening Ideas
– Desert Gardening for Beginners

The post Raised Garden Bed Design: Backyard Layout Ideas That Work appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

1. Examine Existing Beds
2. Evaluate the Soil
   • Why Not Till?
3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost
4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings
5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

1. Examine Existing Beds

Begin by doing a quick visual assessment of your garden beds:

• Raised Bed Condition
  • Do the sides need any repairs?
  • Are there gaps or signs of rotting wood or weakened materials?
• Irrigation Check
  • Is your watering system functioning correctly?
  • Are there any leaks, clogged emitters, or areas not receiving adequate moisture?
  • Is the coverage sufficient for all plants?

If you need to update or replace your beds, I highly recommend the metal raised beds and watering grids from Garden in Min

utes. I’ve used them in my own garden for years, and they’ve been incredibly durable and easy to maintain. Plus, the watering grids ensure even moisture for your plants. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100, or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

2. Evaluate the Soil

Once your beds are structurally sound, shift focus to the soil itself:

• Soil Level & Texture
  • Has the soil level dropped significantly? Consider whether you need to top off with fresh raised bed mix or if a layer of compost would suffice.
  • Is the soil still loose and friable? If it feels compacted or you notice a drastic change in texture, supplementing with components like coconut coir, vermiculite, or a raised bed mix that includes those may be necessary. I use the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm. Learn more about this soil mixture here.

• Weeds, Diseases & Pest History
  • Were there major weed issues, diseases, or pest infestations last season? If so, remove any remaining plant debris or weeds to prevent carry-over problems. If Bermuda grass is an issue, read this guide.

Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

• Soil Testing
  • If your garden is growing well, this step may not be necessary. But if plants have struggled or not grown well a soil test is a good way to see what is going on.
  • Soil pH & Nutrient Levels: A soil test is the best way to know precisely what amendments your garden needs. You’ll learn about nutrient deficiencies (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients) and whether pH adjustments are necessary.
  • Use a reliable, easy-to-read soil test kit or send samples to a local extension office for professional analysis. This is the soil test kit I use.
  • Follow test recommendations to address any imbalances before you plant. Learn more about how to test your soil in this guide.

Tip: Don’t till your soil. Tilling disturbs the good things that are happening in your soil!

Why Not Till?

• Preserves Soil Structure
  Tilling can break apart soil aggregates and damage fragile networks of fungi and microorganisms. Undisturbed soil holds water and nutrients more effectively.
• Protects Beneficial Organisms
  Earthworms, microbes, and other helpful creatures thrive when left undisturbed. These organisms improve soil fertility by breaking down organic matter and making nutrients available to plants.
• Reduces Weed Pressure
  Tilling can expose dormant weed seeds to sunlight, causing them to germinate. Leaving the soil undisturbed helps keep those seeds buried and less likely to sprout.
• Prevents Erosion
  Soil with a stable, undisturbed structure is less prone to wind and water erosion, helping maintain soil depth and quality over time.

By minimizing disturbance and simply layering organic matter (like compost) on top, you enhance your soil’s natural processes—resulting in healthier, more resilient garden beds.

3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost

One of the most essential steps in amending soil is adding compost. Compost is a cornerstone amendment for any garden.

• Benefits of Compost
  • Improves Soil Structure: Loosens heavy clay and helps sandy soils hold moisture.
  • Adds Nutrients: Contains essential plant nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, plus beneficial micronutrients.
  • Boosts Beneficial Organisms: Feeds microbes and earthworms that help make nutrients more available to plants.
  • Reduces Diseases & Pests: Compost can help suppress some plant diseases and pests.
  • Enhances Moisture Retention: Helps the soil hold water, reducing the need for frequent watering.
• How to Add Compost
  • Layer, Don’t Till: Spread at least one inch (2.54 cm) of compost on top of your soil. Earthworms and microbes will integrate it naturally.
  • Dealing with Mulch: If you have a thick mulch layer, pull it back, add compost, and then replace or refresh the mulch as needed.
• Which Compost to Use
  • Homemade: Homemade compost is best if you can make it. Learn how to make compost in this guide.
  • Locally Sourced: A local, trusted compost supplier is your next-best option.
  • Store-Bought: If using bagged compost, buy multiple brands for a varied nutrient profile.

4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings

Worm castings are a powerful, natural soil amendment:

• Why Use Worm Castings?
  • Naturally high in beneficial microbes and nutrients.
  • Gentle, slow release of fertility that won’t burn plants if applied correctly.
• How Much to Add
  • For established beds, apply 4 cups per 4×8 bed.
  • In new beds, aim for around 5% worm castings (11 gallons per 4×8 bed).
  • Layer them on top of the soil and lightly water them in.
• In-Bed Vermicomposting
  • Add an in-bed vermicomposting bin for an ongoing supply of worm castings directly in your raised bed. It’s a low-maintenance way of amending soil throughout the growing season. Learn how to add vermicomposting bins to your garden here.

To learn more about the benefits of worm castings, read this guide by Zach Brooks of Arizona Worm Farm.

Tip: Apply 4 cups fresh worm castings to each 4×8 raised bed each season.

5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

Although I add compost and worm castings each season, I don’t always add other amendments. You can finalize your plan for amending soil based on your soil test results. Consider these common soil amendments:

1. Biochar (link to purchase)
   • Improves soil texture and water retention.
   • It acts like a sponge, holding nutrients until plants need them.
   • It can raise pH, so be mindful if your soil is already alkaline.
2. Azomite (Rock Dust) (link to purchase)
   • Rich in minerals and trace elements that garden soil may lack.
   • Useful for amending soil that has been heavily used or depleted.
3. Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (link to purchase)
   • Beneficial for clay or compacted soils.
   • Helps loosen particles and improve drainage.
4. Blood Meal (link to purchase)
   • Quick source of nitrogen.
   • Follow label instructions to avoid over-fertilization.
5. Bone Meal (link to purchase)
   • Adds phosphorus for strong root growth and flower/fruit production.
   • Also provides calcium and some nitrogen.
6. Kelp Meal/Seaweed Extract (link to purchase)
   • Offers micronutrients, natural growth hormones, and stress resistance.
   • Great for amending soil to support seed germination and root development.
7. Green Sand or Langbeinite (link to purchase)
   • Green sand supplies potassium and micronutrients.
   • Langbeinite delivers potassium, magnesium, and sulfur—excellent if your test indicates shortages.

Even the best mix will need refreshing over time. My guide on how to fill a raised bed explains what to add initially and how to keep improving soil season after season.

If you’re looking for tools, soil amendments, seed-starting gear, or even supplies for keeping chickens, check out my carefully curated gardening supplies and tools page. It includes everything I rely on in the garden.

Tip: Always adhere to recommended application rates when amending soil, as over-amending can cause nutrient imbalances.

Final Thoughts

Taking the time at the beginning of each season to prepare garden soil before planting pays off by reducing problems later on and boosting plant performance. By layering amendments like compost and worm castings, adding specific nutrients based on a soil test, and avoiding deep tilling, you’ll keep your soil structure healthy and full of beneficial organisms.

Healthy soil is a living ecosystem. With consistent care and careful amending of soil, your garden will become more productive and resilient each season—setting the stage for vigorous plants, fewer pest problems, and delicious, abundant harvests.

If you are gardening in the low desert or another hot, dry climate, the Desert Gardening page is the best place to start. It brings together all my seasonal planting guides, tips for creating shade and managing heatwaves, and advice for protecting plants from frost. Having everything in one place makes it easy to find exactly what you need for each season.

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Article Index:

1. Spend Time in Your Garden Each Day While Watering
2. Pay Attention to the Weather
3. Understand Your Plants’ Water Needs
4. Water Less Frequently but More Deeply
5. Water in the Morning
6. Provide Consistent Water
7. The Importance of Mulching
8. Know Your Soil Type and Its Watering Needs
9. Watering New Seeds and Seedlings vs. Established Plants
10. Key Takeaways

1. Spend Time in Your Garden Each Day While Watering

Being present in your garden during watering is essential. Regardless of your watering method, paying attention to your system while it’s operating helps you spot potential problems early.

• Check for Issues: Look out for dead batteries, broken timers, leaks in lines, over-watering, or under-watering.
• Prevent Waste: Identifying problems early prevents water wastage from flooding and ensures your plants’ health isn’t compromised.

If you use an automatic watering system, program it to run when you’re usually in the garden. This way, you can monitor its performance and make adjustments as needed.

2. Pay Attention to the Weather

Weather conditions significantly affect your garden’s watering needs.

• Dry, Windy, or Hot Conditions: Plants require more water during these times.
• Seasonal Adjustments: In hot areas like Arizona, raised-bed gardens often need watering every day during summer. In cooler seasons, watering 1-2 times per week may suffice.

The transition times can be tricky. You may want to manually control how often your garden gets watered as temperatures heat up in late spring and as they cool down in the fall. Check your soil before watering and gradually increase or decrease the frequency depending on the temperature and soil.

3. Understand Your Plants’ Water Needs

Adequate moisture is essential for healthy crops. “A healthy plant is composed of 75%-90% water, which is used for the plants’ vital functions, including photosynthesis, support, and transportation of nutrients and sugars to various parts of the plant.” (Arizona Master Gardener Manual, p.180)

Signs of Under-Watering

• Brown, dry leaf edges
• Slow growth
• Leaf curl
• Wilted or dropped leaves
• Branch dieback

Note: Plants that wilt in the afternoon but recover when the sun goes down suffer from heat stress, not water stress. They may not need additional water. Check the soil before adding more water.

Signs of Over-Watering

• Soft, rotten roots, or a rotten smell
• Constantly wet soil
• Light green or yellow new growth
• Leaf curl and drop

Avoid over-watering to help plants develop heat tolerance and prevent issues like root rot and leaf drop.

4. Water Less Frequently but More Deeply

It’s better to water your garden deeply and less often than to give it frequent shallow waterings. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, making your plants stronger and more drought-resistant.

• Aim to moisten the soil to at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep.
• Figure out how long it takes to reach this depth—you might need to dig down and check.
• Use the “cycle and soak” method: water for a bit, let it soak in, then water again. This helps prevent runoff and ensures the water penetrates deeply.

Let the Soil Dry Between Waterings

Allow the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering again. Use a moisture meter or do the finger test: stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry and doesn’t stick to your finger, it’s time to water.

Occasionally, water longer to flush out salts that can build up in the soil, especially in arid regions like Arizona.

5. Water in the Morning

Watering early in the day is beneficial because plants absorb moisture more effectively in the morning. Watering in the morning also prepares them for the heat of the day and reduces the risk of fungal diseases that can develop if plants stay wet overnight.

6. Provide Consistent Water

Consistency is key when watering raised beds. Inconsistent watering can stress plants, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases like blossom end rot. An automatic watering system can help ensure your garden is watered evenly and regularly.

• Timers can be easily adjusted for seasonal changes.
• Options include soaker hoses, sprinklers, and drip lines.
• Even a simple setup with a soaker hose connected to a timer can be effective.

I’ve found that Garden Grids from Garden in Minutes offer excellent coverage for raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order. They distribute water evenly and can be easily connected to a timer. You can learn more about them in this blog post.

Ollas for Containers

Ollas (pronounced “oy-yahs”) are a great option for container plants. These are unglazed clay pots buried in the soil that slowly release water directly to the roots. While not automatic, they provide consistent moisture and are easy to use. Learn more about using ollas in containers in this blog post. I use ollas from Growoya.

Having the right tools makes gardening easier and more enjoyable. On my favorite garden supplies page, you’ll find the products I trust for soil prep, watering, seed starting, and more. These are the same tools I use in my own garden.

7. The Importance of Mulching

Mulching is a simple way to conserve soil moisture and reduce how often you need to water.

• It reduces evaporation from the soil surface.
• It helps suppress weeds that compete for water.
• As organic mulch breaks down, it improves soil structure.

Materials like straw, wood chips, or shredded leaves work well in vegetable gardens. See my guide to using mulch here.

8. Know Your Soil Type and Its Watering Needs

Understanding your soil is crucial for effective watering.

• Sandy Soils: These drain quickly and may need more frequent watering.
• Clay Soils: They hold water longer but can become waterlogged if over-watered.
• Loamy Soils: This is the ideal mix, balancing drainage and moisture retention.

How to Identify Your Soil Type

Try the squeeze test by squeezing a handful of moist soil in your hand. Once you know your soil type, you can adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

• If it falls apart when you open your hand, it’s sandy soil.
• If it holds its shape and feels sticky, it’s clay soil.
• If it holds its shape but crumbles with slight pressure, it’s loamy soil.

9. Watering New Seeds and Seedlings vs. Established Plants

Different stages of plant growth require different watering approaches.

New Seeds and Seedlings

• Shallow Roots: Need the soil to remain consistently moist.
• Frequent, Light Watering: Prevents drying out, which can be fatal at this stage. Use a hose with a sprinkler attachment to water young seeds and seedlings more often if you have established plants and seedlings in the same bed.
• Close Monitoring: Check soil moisture regularly to ensure optimal conditions.

Established Plants

• Deeper Roots: Benefit from less frequent but deeper watering.
• Encourages Strong Root Growth: Deep watering promotes a robust and healthy root system.

10. Conclusion

Learning how to water your garden correctly may take time and trial and error. But getting it right is worth the time and effort.

Key Takeaways:

• Spend time in your garden to monitor and adjust your watering practices.
• Adjust the watering frequency based on weather and seasonal changes.
• Understand the specific water needs of your plants.
• Water deeply but less frequently to promote strong root systems.
• Water in the morning to maximize absorption and minimize disease.
• Use mulch and consider soil types to improve water retention.
• Provide consistent water, especially during critical growth stages.

Additional Watering Resources:

• Learn more about the best way to water raised beds in this blog post.
• For more on garden grids, visit Garden in Minutes.
• To learn more about using ollas, visit Growoya.

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Article Index:

• Why Consistent Watering is the Best Way to Water Raised Beds
• The Importance of Automatic Watering Systems in Dry Climates
• Choosing the Best Type of Automatic Watering System
• My Journey to Finding the Best Watering Method
• Discovering the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes
• Why the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes is the Best Choice
• Implementing Best Watering Practices
• The Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens

Why Consistent Watering is the Best Way to Water Raised Beds

Consistency is key in gardening. Inconsistent watering causes seeds and seedlings to dry out and die, stresses established plants, and invites pests and diseases. Especially in arid regions like the low desert of Arizona, where rainfall is scarce, consistent watering becomes even more critical. Regular moisture ensures optimal soil conditions, promoting deep roots and overall plant health.

The Importance of Automatic Watering Systems in Dry Climates

An automatic watering system is the best way to water raised bed gardens in areas with limited rainfall. It ensures that plants receive the right amount of water at the right time without waiting for a busy gardener. Missing even one watering session in a dry climate can kill many plants in your garden. Automatic systems help maintain consistent soil moisture levels, promote growth, and reduce stress (mine and the plants!).

Save Water and Money

Watering can be a significant expense, especially in dry regions. Automatic watering systems, particularly drip irrigation, deliver water directly to the plant roots, minimizing evaporation and runoff. This targeted approach conserves water, reduces utility bills, and supports sustainable gardening practices. Get more water-saving tips in this guide.

Choosing the Best Type of Automatic Watering System

Several options are available, but not all are equally effective for raised bed gardens.

• Soaker Hoses: These often get clogged, crack over time, and don’t distribute water evenly across the bed.
• Sprinklers: While easy to use, sprinklers wet the foliage, which can encourage and spread diseases. They also lead to excess evaporation and inefficient watering.
• Drip Lines: Standard drip irrigation systems can be messy and prone to damage. They may not stay in place and often require complex installation.

My Journey to Finding the Best Watering Method

I experimented with various drip irrigation systems but struggled to achieve even watering in the entire raised bed. Even after watering for a long time, there would be dry spots, while other areas had too much water. The components were expensive, and I often accidentally cut the drip lines while digging. Spaghetti-type drip lines were messy and didn’t always stay in place. Frustrated with these ineffective solutions, I wished there was a better way.

Discovering the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes

When I first saw the Garden Grid on Instagram in 2017, I realized it solved two significant problems: my messy, ineffective drip lines and the need for grids for square-foot gardening. Previously, I used wood slats to divide my beds, which made amending the soil difficult. The Garden Grid was revolutionary. It provided:

• Even Water Distribution: Pre-drilled holes ensure consistent watering in every part of the bed.
• Simplified Square-Foot Gardening: The grid layout makes planting and organization simple.
• Easy Installation and Maintenance: The system is durable, and it’s easy to lift off the bed when adding compost or other soil amendments.

I added the first grid to my garden in 2017 and slowly incorporated them into my older beds. Any new beds I add now always include the Garden Grid. They’ve even started making garden beds that come with the grids, which is now all I use when I add new beds. Read this post to see if metal beds heat up more than wooden beds.

Exclusive Discount: Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

Get Your Garden Grid™ Here

I also use the metal raised beds from Garden In Minutes®, which include the Garden Grid™.

Check Out the Metal Raised Beds Here

Why the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes is the Best Choice

After experimenting with various drip line systems and trying to make my own watering grids (they wouldn’t lay flat and were crooked), the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes stands out as the best way to water raised bed gardens. Here’s why:

1. Even and Efficient Water Distribution

Each grid has pre-drilled holes along the tubing, ensuring that every part of your raised bed receives water evenly. This eliminates dry spots and over-saturated areas. This is especially helpful for seed germination.

2. Easy Integration with Automatic Timers

Connecting the Garden Grids to an automatic timer is simple, allowing you to customize watering schedules based on your garden’s needs and weather conditions. You can see the video I did about adding the grids to my yard’s sprinkler system and Racchio timer here:

3. Quick and Tool-Free Installation

The grids come preassembled and can be installed in minutes without any tools. This simplicity makes it accessible for gardeners of all experience levels.

4. Ideal for Square-Foot Gardening

The Garden Grid divides your garden into evenly spaced square sections, perfect for practicing square-foot gardening. This method helps with plant organization and maximizes the use of space without the need for wood slats or other dividers. Learn more about square-foot gardening techniques in this guide.

5. Durable and Low Maintenance

Unlike traditional drip lines that can be easily damaged while digging or planting, the Garden Grid is sturdy and remains in place. It’s also easy to remove when you need to amend the soil.

6. Adjustable Water Flow

Adding a flow valve to each bed allows you to adjust the water flow into individual beds easily. This allows for customization based on water pressure and the specific water needs of different plants.

Implementing Best Watering Practices

To maximize the benefits of your automatic watering system:

• Monitor Soil Moisture: Even with an automatic system, regularly check soil moisture to ensure your plants get the right amount of water.
• Adjust for Weather Conditions: Modify your watering schedule based on rainfall and temperature changes to prevent overwatering or underwatering.
• Maintain Your System: Periodically inspect your drip lines or grids for clogs or damage to keep the system running efficiently. If a hole gets clogged, unclogging it with a push pin is easy.

The Best Way to Water Raised Bed Gardens

Investing in an automatic drip irrigation system like the Garden Grid is the best way to water raised bed gardens. It ensures consistent, efficient watering, leading to healthier plants and more bountiful harvests. Especially in arid regions like Arizona’s low desert, this approach saves water, reduces costs, and supports sustainable gardening.

Shop the Garden Grid™ at Garden In Minutes®

Save Now: Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

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Article Outline:

• Why Soil Quality is Essential for Raised Beds
• The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix
• What is in Mel’s Mix?
• Arizona Worm Farm Raised Bed Mix
• Advantages of Using Mel’s Mix for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening
• How to Combine the Ingredients for Mel’s Mix
• Maintaining Your Raised Bed Soil

Why Soil Quality is Essential for Raised Beds

Raised beds offer numerous advantages, but success depends mainly on the soil quality you use. Here’s why soil quality is so important:

• Better Drainage: Good raised bed soil improves drainage while ensuring that plants still get the needed moisture.
• Root Growth: Loamy, well-aerated soil encourages roots to spread and access nutrients.
• Nutrient Availability: Nutrient-rich soil is vital for healthy plant growth and productive harvests.
• Soil Structure: The right blend of organic matter and aeration helps create a loose, crumbly texture that plants thrive in.

Good soil is the foundation—but layout matters too. See how my garden beds, containers, and fruit trees fit together in a cohesive design.

If you’re wondering what the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is, the answer is simple—Mel’s Mix.

The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix

I didn’t come up with this mix; we can thank Mel Bartholomew, the author of Square Foot Gardening, for developing a simple, effective soil blend for raised bed gardening. After reading his book in 2008, I followed his advice for making Mel’s Mix, which he calls “the most important, productive, essential, necessary, critical” ingredient for square-foot gardening success—and it worked!

Mel’s Mix is a tried-and-true solution for raised beds, providing an ideal balance of moisture retention, aeration, and nutrient availability.

What is in Mel’s Mix?

Regular garden soil is too dense for raised bed gardening. Mel’s Mix solves that problem by combining compost, coco coir, and vermiculite to keep the soil light and airy. This blend provides excellent drainage and a healthy environment for plant roots. Here’s the breakdown:

• One part compost: You can make your compost, or if you live in Arizona, the compost from Arizona Worm Farm is a great option. If you use bagged compost, it’s best to mix several different types.
• One part coco coir: A sustainable alternative to peat moss that retains moisture and improves soil structure.
• One part vermiculite or perlite: These materials help with soil aeration and moisture retention.
• 3-5% worm castings: About 1/3 gallon per cubic foot adds beneficial microbes and nutrients. Make your own with in-bed vermicomposting bins or purchase them locally if possible.
• 1/2 cup basalt dust per cubic foot adds trace minerals that benefit plant health.

Depending on your needs, you can also adjust the mix by using up to 50% compost and 25% each of vermiculite and coco coir.

Arizona Worm Farm Raised Bed Mix

In the Fall of 2020, Arizona Worm Farm began offering a ready-made soil mix called “Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix.” This mix contains the perfect blend of compost, coco coir, vermiculite, worm castings, and basalt dust. It’s available by the bag or yard. This premixed soil is an easy, convenient option for anyone looking for the best soil for raised beds in the Phoenix area.

Advantages of Using Mel’s Mix for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

Mel’s Mix offers several distinct advantages that make it the best choice for raised bed vegetable gardening:

• Simplified Drainage: The combination of vermiculite and coco coir ensures excellent water retention while preventing waterlogging. The soil absorbs moisture, and excess moisture easily drains away when saturated. You can’t overwater with this mix!
• Easy Seed Germination: Seeds germinate quickly in this light, airy mixture, making it ideal for direct sowing in raised beds.
• Minimal Weeds: One of Mel’s Mix’s biggest benefits is its weed-free nature. Since the soil stays light and loose, weeds have difficulty establishing themselves.
• Oxygen for Roots: Healthy roots need both oxygen and water. Mel’s Mix’s light texture allows plant roots to access both, leading to vigorous growth.

How to Combine the Ingredients for Mel’s Mix

There are a couple of ways to mix the ingredients for the best soil for raised bed gardening:

1. Batch Mixing on a Tarp: Spread a tarp on the ground and combine the compost, coco coir, and vermiculite in batches. Once everything is mixed, dump the contents into your raised bed and water thoroughly.
2. Layering in the Raised Bed: You can layer the ingredients directly in the raised bed, mixing well after each addition. This “lasagna style” approach is convenient and works just as well.

It’s a good idea to mix up a little extra of Mel’s Mix to fill containers or top off your raised beds throughout the season. Store it in a large, lidded garbage can for easy access.

Maintaining Your Raised Bed Soil

Over time, the soil level in your raised beds will decrease as the organic matter breaks down. Adding more compost each time you plant is important to keep the soil level topped up and maintain its nutrient content.

• Compost: As the compost decomposes, it enriches the soil with essential nutrients. Keep adding compost to your raised beds with each planting cycle to maintain healthy, nutrient-rich soil. For more information on how to make your compost, check out my composting guide.
• No Need to Replace Coco Coir and Vermiculite: Unlike compost, coco coir and vermiculite don’t break down as quickly, so you won’t need to replenish these components each season. Just focus on adding fresh compost.
• Add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your beds. Worms break down food scraps and create nutrient-rich worm castings right in your garden bed. Read this in-bed vermicomposting guide to learn how to add these bins to your beds.

Using the right mix and maintaining your soil over time ensures that your raised beds remain productive for years. Whether you mix your own or opt for a premade option like Arizona Worm Farm’s Raised Bed Mix, getting the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening will give you healthier plants, fewer weeds, and bigger harvests.

When you are ready to build new beds, learn step-by-step how to fill a raised bed with the right soil and amendments.

For more soil resources on my blog, read these articles:

• How to Prepare Your Soil For Planting
• How to Refresh Old Potting Soil
• Soil Testing: When and How to Test Your Soil

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However, given my location in a region with hot summers, I was uncertain about the practicality of replacing wooden beds with metal ones. Questions like “Are metal beds too hot for Arizona?” and “Do metal garden beds heat up more than wooden beds?” loomed large. I wanted to answer these questions before adding more metal beds to the garden. 

Testing to see if metal garden beds heat up more than wooden beds

For the test, I took soil temperature readings from my metal Garden In Minutes bed and cedar garden beds for about four weeks. 

Note: The Garden In Minutes metal bed is made of Aluzinc Magnesium coated steel. This type of steel is less reflective than standard galvanized or Aluzinc garden beds. (Other metal garden beds may perform differently.)

Soil Temperature Readings

Results of testing to see if metal garden beds heat up more than wooden beds

Surprisingly, the temperature difference was not as significant as I thought it might be. The outer inch of the metal beds was usually (but not always) hotter by a degree or two. However, the bed’s interior was similar for both beds. 

Incidentally, when taking additional measurements, I discovered that sun exposure, mulch, shade, and watering made a bigger difference than the bed type.

For instance, beds in direct sunlight on the western side of the garden heated up more than those on the eastern side. I also found that the soil temperature in beds with more mulch was lower than in those with less. Recently watered beds were cooler than if it had been a couple of days since watering. I didn’t record these measurements, but I plan to take additional readings next summer to document more soil temperature findings. 

Do metal beds get too hot? My conclusion:

After the test, I concluded that the benefits of the metal beds outweigh the modest heat gain on the outer edge of the bed.

1. Durability: Metal garden beds are typically more durable than their wooden counterparts. They resist rot and insect damage.
2. Ease of Maintenance: Metal garden beds are easy to clean and maintain. Metal does not absorb moisture or bacteria, which reduces the risk of disease in your plants.
3. Longevity: Galvanized metal is much more weather-resistant than wood.

After conducting this test to see if metal beds were too hot for Arizona, I decided to use metal beds. I replaced three wooden garden beds with metal ones from Garden In Minutes.

Choosing the right raised bed can be tricky, but consider Garden in Minutes’ metal beds. Their durability, longevity, and ease of maintenance make them an outstanding choice. Even in hot climates, these beds stay cool enough for your plants.

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Raised bed garden mistake #1: Not having an overall plan for your space

I’m a big fan of starting small when you start a garden. However, it’s essential to consider the entire space before you install the first raised bed. You don’t need to install all the raised beds at once, but do have a plan for where they will be placed. Raised beds are difficult, if not impossible, to move. 

Use the guidelines for designing a raised bed garden and map out where each bed will be before you put the first one in place. Beginning with the end in mind will help ensure your space is as productive and efficient as possible.

Want to see how I’ve designed my raised bed layout to avoid common mistakes? Take a look at my backyard garden design in action.

Thinking about adding a raised bed? I love my metal garden bed (it comes with watering grids!) from Garden in Minutes. Read this post to see if metal beds heat up more than wooden beds.

If you aren’t sure where you want to put your garden beds, consider gardening in grow bags for the first season. Grow bags are an inexpensive way to begin gardening as you determine the best location for your raised bed garden. This blog post shares how to get started with grow bag gardening.

Raised bed garden mistake #2: Not making a plan for how you will water your garden

Many problems in the garden can be traced back to incorrect watering: too much, too little, or inconsistent watering. Irregular watering causes seeds and seedlings to dry out, and it stresses established plants inviting pests and diseases.  

Consider how you will water the garden beds as part of your raised bed garden plan.

Some type of automatic watering system is the best way to water raised beds. Timers can be adjusted to water daily during the warmest months or less often, depending on rain and other weather conditions.

My favorite drip-line irrigation system is the Garden Grid from Garden In Minutes. I’ve used them since 2017 and added them to all my garden’s raised beds. Learn more about watering principles for raised bed gardens in this post.

Raised bed garden mistake #3: Not making beds deep enough or not using all of the space in the beds

Raised beds should be at least 12 inches deep; 18 inches is even better. The amount of soil in the raised beds limits plant roots. Fill the beds all the way up with the best soil possible (see mistake #4).

For beds deeper than 18 inches, filling up the bottom part of the bed with dried leaves, compost, or other organic matter (Hügelkultur style) is okay, but ensure at least the top 12″-18” is soil. 

Filling beds up only halfway causes more temperature fluctuations, which is also stressful for plants. 

Raised bed garden mistake #4: Not focusing on your soil

Soil is the most crucial factor in your garden’s success. Healthy soil is rich with oxygen, light, fluffy, friable, and porous.

Soil that is full of life (fungi, bacteria, protozoa, nematodes, and earthworms) provides the nutrients that feed the roots of the plants in your garden. As you care for it, good soil will improve over time. This post shows you more about the best soil for raised beds. I use the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm to fill up all my beds. 

Regularly adding compost to your garden beds makes any soil better. Compost is loaded with vital nutrients that are released slowly into the soil. Other benefits of compost include stimulating growth, moderating soil pH, disease protection, improved soil structure, and water retention. 

Using in-bed vermicomposting buckets is another way to improve your soil dramatically. The worms break down scraps and make castings right in the beds. Worm castings are a powerhouse of nutrients with minerals and good microorganisms that improve plant growth as well as pest and disease resistance. In this post, learn more about adding in-bed worm composting to your raised bed garden.

Raised bed garden mistake #5: Planting at the wrong time

Part of learning to garden is learning the characteristics of the plants you want to grow. Vegetables, herbs, fruit, and flowers have preferred growing temperatures.

• Cool-season crops include lettuce, onions, broccoli, beets, radishes, spinach, and cauliflower.
• Warm-season crops include tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, melons, squash, eggplant, and sweet potato.

Plants are happiest and grow best when planted at the ideal soil temperature and growing conditions.

The best time to plant varies significantly by region. Therefore, a big part of gardening success is learning the unique growing conditions of your area.

Understand your current climate’s challenges and maximize your climate’s benefits.

To learn the best time to plant, ask experienced gardeners in your area, or contact your local extension office. In addition, local nurseries can be an excellent resource for planting dates and information. Learn more about finding a planting guide for your area in this post.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, my blog (you’re reading it right now) is full of resources to help you determine the best time to plant.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Starting a raised bed garden doesn’t have to be an overwhelming process. If you take the time to plan, you can avoid costly mistakes. Ensure that your beds are deep enough and use the space available. Focus on soil health and learn the best planting times. Now is the perfect time to begin. You’ve got this! 

If this post about the raised garden bed mistakes to avoid was helpful, please share it.

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Does this sound familiar? Looking around my yard, I see weeds, overgrown plants, and a few dried-out pots I tried to grow tomatoes in last year. I think to myself…. “How am I going to grow anything here?” “What do I do first?” “How will I know what to plant?” “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?”

Read through these steps, and don’t be afraid to start a garden. You can do this! 

If you are starting your garden in the low desert or another hot, dry climate, the Desert Gardening page is the best place to begin. It brings together all my seasonal planting guides, tips for creating shade and managing heatwaves, and advice for protecting plants from frost. Having everything in one place makes it easy to find exactly what you need for each season.

Step 1: Choose the best location to start your garden

The best spot is where it is convenient for you – someplace you will see and walk by often. The back of the yard behind the shed may get the most sun, but if you don’t see your garden regularly, you might forget about it.

• Ideally, this spot gets morning sun – look for a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun (more is ok). You might need to provide shade in the summer in hot areas like Arizona. 
• Check sun exposure using the Sun Seeker app (or similar). It allows you to see the amount of sunlight each area receives. 
• There should also be a water source nearby or within a hose distance.

Starting a garden can feel overwhelming. Read this guide to help you avoid new gardeners’ most common mistakes.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

Gardening for Beginners Step 2: Add a raised bed

Start small – you can always add more. A “4 foot by 8 foot” raised bed is a good starting point. Aim for a depth between 12 and 18 inches. It is easy to construct, and you can grow a lot of food in this size space. It is important that you can reach into the center of the bed without stepping on the soil. Add more raised beds later as your ability and experience grow. This article shares tips for designing raised bed gardens, and my post on how to fill a raised bed explains exactly what to put inside for long-term success.

I recently added this metal garden bed from Garden in Minutes to my garden. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order. It comes complete with watering grids. This bed is an excellent choice for a first garden or to add to an existing garden. Read this post to see if metal beds heat up more than wooden beds.

Alternatively, use several large pots or half wine barrels for container gardening.

If you’re using containers in a hot climate, Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates shares strategies to help your garden thrive when temperatures soar.

Step 3: Set up a watering system

An automatic watering system and a hose for watering seedlings is best. Automatic watering can be simple, such as a battery-operated timer connected to your hose bib, with either a soaker hose or drip line going to the garden. Using a two-way splitter for a second hose is helpful for hand-watering new plantings and seeds.

This article shares more information about how to water your garden correctly. I use watering grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. 

Gardening for Beginners Step 4: Add soil to your raised bed

One advantage of raised beds is you do not use existing soil. Once you add the perfect mix of ingredients to your raised bed, you are ready to plant. This one-time cost will probably be the most expensive part of beginning a garden. 

To fill the bed, mix equal parts of: 

• Compost – use several different brands or make your own.
• Peat Moss or Coconut Coir – makes soil lighter; helps with water retention.
• Vermiculite – helps retain water and allows the soil to breathe.

How much soil will you need? The volume of your raised bed or containers determines this.  A 4×4 bed that is 1 foot deep will require a total of 16 cubic feet of soil. Each time you plant, add fresh compost to your soil.

This article shares more information about the best soil for raised bed gardens. 

After adding the soil, amend the beds with organic fertilizer.

In the future, it’s important to have your soil tested each year. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s very simple to use. 

Step 5: Find a planting guide written for your area and follow it

Timing is crucial in gardening. Using a planting guide takes the guesswork out of what to plant and when to plant it. Local extension offices and locally-owned nurseries are a great place to begin your search for a planting guide. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I recommend these planting guides.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

Gardening for Beginners Step 6: Plant what you like to eat

Read about the vegetables you would like to grow on Growinginthegarden.com, so you understand growing requirements, when to plant, and when to harvest.  

• Best from seed: root crops (carrots, turnips, radishes, etc.), peas, beans, corn, squash, melons, cucumbers, Swiss chard.
• Best from seedlings: peppers, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts.
• Successful either way: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, kale, spinach.

Check new seeds and seedlings often – water as necessary to keep the soil moist. If newly planted seeds and seedlings dry out, they will die. 

Wondering how to start seeds indoors? This post explains how to start seeds inside.

Step 7: Spend time in your garden each day

Take a walk around your garden each morning – preferably while the watering system is running. Take note of what is growing well (yay!), and observe problems while they are young and easily corrected. When you catch problems (pest, disease, watering issues) while they are small, they are easily managed. Find joy in the successes and learn from the failures.

This post shares exactly what to do in your garden each day.

Step 8: Harvest and eat what you grow

Pick young and pick often – this encourages more production. Use the food you grow in the garden. Try new recipes and incorporate your garden harvest into your family’s food. Soups and smoothies are a great way to use vegetables from the garden.

Questions about how to start a garden? Ask me in the comments.

If you are just getting started with gardening, this beginner’s guide is a great place to begin. It pulls together my most helpful resources for new gardeners and walks you through the first steps toward a thriving garden.

Gardening comes with its own language, and it can get confusing. That’s why I created the Practical Gardening Glossary—a handy A–Z guide that explains terms like “germinate,” “compost,” and “seedling” in plain English. It’s a great tool whether you’re just getting started or brushing up on your garden vocabulary.

Not sure if you should start a garden? Here are ten reasons why you should!

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Self-sufficient gardening is developing skills and implementing systems to help your garden thrive with less dependence upon other sources and less influence from outside forces.

A self-sufficient garden means you don’t have to run to the store whenever you need seeds, compost, or fertilizer. Learn more about how to make your garden (and you!) self-sufficient with these 10 tips. 

10 Tips for Having a More Self-Sufficient Garden

These ten tips aren’t in any particular order, but the more of these suggestions you implement, the more self-sufficient your garden will become. 

1. Learn how to save seeds

Saving seeds is not complicated; it is often straightforward. Learn about the crops you are growing and see if it is possible to save seeds from them. Learn the best time to harvest seeds, and store them properly. (This blog post tells you how.) Properly-saved seeds will last for years.

An added advantage to saving seeds is that seeds you save from crops that grow well in your garden are adapted to your garden’s unique growing conditions. 

I go into detail in this blog post and in this video about the specifics of saving seeds, but the bottom line is that YOU CAN LEARN TO DO IT! 

2. Plan and grow your own “seed” crops

When you think of seed saving – think outside the box a little. There are many crops that, if you save bulbs or learn how they propagate, you can grow enough to consume and set aside some to replant the following season. 

For example, save your best cloves of garlic to plant the following season. Because I have two planting windows for potatoes, I can save some of my spring potatoes to plant out in the fall. Save a couple of sweet potatoes and grow slips to plant next spring. This blog post tells you how.

3. Learn how to start from seeds (indoors and out) 

Learning how to grow crops from seeds successfully is a valuable skill. It can require practice and the right equipment if growing indoors. However, the initial outlay in time and money will be well-paid over and over in the number of transplants you don’t have to purchase from the garden center. 

Although prices have gone up, the price of a packet of seeds is usually a few dollars (free if you save your own), and within that seed packet, there are usually dozens of seeds. If stored properly, seeds will last many years and give you more transplants than you probably need.

On the other hand, a six-pack of vegetable transplants (the price for these has also gone up!) is usually considerably more than the price of a package of seeds. 

The added benefit of learning how to start from seed is the wide variety of fruits and vegetables, flowers, and herbs that are now accessible for you to add to your garden. 

4. Learn which perennial crops grow well in your zone and area

Perennials are a sure way to become more self-sufficient in the garden.

Perennial crops come back season after season, with just a little seasonal upkeep or maintenance needed from you. Good examples of perennial crops to consider adding to your garden are asparagus, strawberries, artichokes, rhubarb, perennial kale, Jerusalem artichoke, I’itoi onions, longevity spinach, and peppers. 

5. Plant fruit trees suited to your climate zone

Learn which types of fruit trees grow well in your zone and add them to your garden. Learn how many chill hours your area receives and pick fruit trees that require that number (or less). For example, where I live, citrus grows well and thrives in our native soil, as do varieties of peaches, figs, and pomegranates.  

Fruit trees not only provide an abundance of fruit, but many are deciduous, and their leaves are valuable additions to the soil and compost pile.

Don’t forget other fruits like blackberries, raspberries, grapes, goji berries, etc. Learn what grows well in your area and plant it! 

6. Learn how to propagate plants

Adding perennials can be a substantial investment, but there is another way to add perennials. Learn how to propagate and multiply your existing plants (or others’ plants). There are many methods: 

• Cuttings 
• Division
• Air or ground layering
• Grafting

7. Learn how to compost 

Compost is a mixture of ingredients that would otherwise be in the landfill used to fertilize and improve the soil. Adding compost to your garden at the beginning of each season is the best way to prepare your soil for spring, summer, and fall planting.

Compost:

• Adds organic matter to the soil to improve the texture.
• Fresh compost contains billions of living microorganisms.
• Improves plant health and production.
• Protects plants from certain diseases.
• Helps moderate soil pH. 
• Supports the beneficial microbes already in the soil.  

With so many reasons to add compost, learning how to compost should be high on your list of ways to become more self-sufficient in the garden. 

I compost my garden waste using traditional composting methods and my kitchen scraps using in-bed vermicomposting. I have articles and videos on YouTube about both processes. 

8. Create your own fertilizer for self-sufficient gardening

Feeding your soil with compost is essential, but you may sometimes want added fertilizer boosts. There are a couple of ways you can produce some of your own: 

Chickens or other livestock produce waste that is high in nitrogen that can be added to compost and then fed to your plants.

Grow comfrey. Comfrey leaves are high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and many trace elements. Comfrey leaves decompose into a liquid rather quickly and make an excellent liquid fertilizer.

Gow cover crops. Some cover crops can help increase the nitrogen in the soil or be used as green manure.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

9. Learn how to collect and use rainwater

Collecting and saving rainwater for use in the garden makes sense and was a common practice by our ancestors. 

Benefits of saving rainwater include:

• Water conservation.
• Saves money on utility bills.
• Access to water during a drought.
• Rainwater contains fewer concentrations of dissolved minerals like magnesium and calcium.
• Unlike tap water, rainwater isn’t treated with chlorine, minerals, and salts.

Before collecting rainwater, check your local laws and regulations to make sure it is legal in your area. 

10. Maximize your garden space for self-sufficient gardening

There never seems to be enough room in our gardens (no matter how large they are) to grow everything we want. Using your area efficiently will help you become more self-sufficient in the garden. Methods that maximize garden space include: 

Vertical gardening is better for plants and gives you more room to plant! Read this blog post to learn more.

Extend the seasons with shade, hoop houses, crop covers, etc. Read this blog post to learn more.

Succession planting. Don’t leave empty areas in the garden. When a spot opens up, plant something! Learn more about succession planting in this guide.

Find creative ways to use your garden harvests around the house. Try growing loofah, a plant that not only thrives in the heat but also helps create a more sustainable kitchen with natural scrubbers.

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When we moved into this home in 2008, one of the first things I did was start a garden. We finally had room, and I’d always wanted a garden. I read “Square Foot Gardening” by Mel Bartholomew and went to Home Depot to have them cut the wood for 4’x4′ (1.2m x 1.2m) beds. I used the least expensive untreated pine. My son and I assembled the beds, and my gardening journey began. 

Fast forward 12 years. The garden beds produced pounds and pounds of food and have served me well, but are falling apart. It is time for a garden makeover in this area of my garden.

Garden Makeover: Before, During & After

1. Garden Makeover (Before): Reevaluate space

I’ve learned a few things since I first added these beds. Now that I have the chance to start over, I will do a few things differently. It’s like remodeling a house you already lived in. I knew what I liked about the space and what needed to change. 

Things I considered before making a plan for this garden makeover:

This area doesn’t get a lot of sunlight and the gardens aren’t as productive as the other areas of the yard. However, the partial shade is an advantage for some plants in the warmer months.

We need a wider walkway on one of the sides. Having the beds right in the middle didn’t give us quite enough room.

I’d like to maximize the open area at the end of the garden to add a garden shed. 

My early beds were only 6 inches (15 cm) tall; this wasn’t deep enough.

2. Garden Makeover (Before): Make a plan and obtain supplies

I’ve loved the Deep Root Raised Beds from Gardener’s Supply that I have in other areas of my garden and knew I wanted to add those. I already had Garden Grids from Garden in Minutes for this area, so I wanted to keep the bed sizes the same and use the existing grids.

The plan for the garden makeover included doing the following:

Move the beds closer to the house to maximize the sunlight and create a wider path in the garden.

• The plan is for the new beds to be 2 feet (61 cm) away from the house and 2 feet (61 cm) apart. 
• This allows for just over 3 feet (91 cm) on the opposite side for a wider pathway.

Line up the first bed with my kitchen window – I love planting sunflowers in this bed and watching the birds through the window.

Decrease the beds by one, and move them closer to the front of the garden to maximize the space at the back of the garden to eventually add a shed.

Hopefully salvage some plants, especially the asparagus. Move the asparagus to an area with more sunlight in another part of the yard.

Supplies needed:

• 3 4×4 Deep Root Raised Beds.
• 1 4×6 Deep Root Raised Bed.
• 1/2″ poly tubing fittings to attach the Garden Grids.
• Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix to fill the beds.

3. Garden Makeover (During): Carry out plan

Demo day was a lot less dramatic than I had imagined. The beds literally fell apart with just a little help from me. 

Once the old beds were removed and I took out the Garden Grids, it was time for the makeover to begin. 

My son helped me put together the new Deep Root Raised Beds from Gardener’s Supply. It’s important to put the beds together on a level surface to ensure the beds are level. 

We transferred plants to a holding area until they could be replanted.

The asparagus roots were dug up and moved to a different part of the yard that will receive more sunlight.

We pushed back the bark and put the first bed in place, transferring the soil from the old location into the new bed once it was in place and leveled. 

We put the beds in place one by one, leveling and measuring each time. 

One bed had a surprising amount of roots from the neighbor’s lemon tree. (No guilt about using those lemons that hang over the fence now!) 

We added 1/2″ tubing into each bed (they will connect to the Garden Grids) and buried the tubing between each bed.

We filled up the beds with Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix from Arizona Worm Farm.

I reinstalled the Garden Grids, but the pressure was off (too much pressure at the beginning, but not enough at the end of the line). 

Because of the water pressure issue, we had to run a direct line to each bed. We ended up adding an additional valve to the sprinkler box, and now I can turn on the Garden Grids and program them from my phone.

Now for the fun part! I replanted the herbs that were in the old beds and added new plants and seeds and mulch to the beds. 

4. Garden Makeover (After): Evaluate

This garden makeover was a much anticipated and enjoyed project. I’m really happy with how everything turned out. Throughout this process I learned the following things:

One of the garden beds had a surprising amount of roots. I will be more careful planting trees near beds in the future.

I wish that I had tested and redone the Garden Grids before filling the beds. Then the irrigation tubing (which connects to the Garden Grids) would not be on the outside of the bed.

The premixed soil from Arizona Worm Farm was a game changer; it made filling the beds so simple. In the past, my soil was always mixed together by hand. 

If this post about my garden makeover was helpful, please share it.

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Gardening with raised beds has several advantages: 

• The soil mix you fill the beds with ensures the best growing conditions for gardening from the beginning, rather than dealing with existing soil issues such as rocky or compacted soil. 
• Drainage issues improve because the growing surface is above the ground level, and water drains out easily. 
• Raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, allowing you to get a jump on planting. Read this post to see if metal beds heat up more than wooden beds.

10 Tips for a Successful Raised-Bed Garden Design

Once you’ve decided to add raised beds to your space, follow these ten tips for designing a raised-bed garden to have the best layout for your garden.

1. Pick the best spot in your yard for your raised-bed garden

Look for an area of your yard that gets morning sun; it’s less intense than late afternoon sun. Ideally, the location for your raised-bed garden receives at least 8 hours of sun (you can provide shade if it needs it, but you can’t add sun). 

Other considerations are level ground, good drainage, and access to water. 

Choose your location carefully. Once you have an idea of the dimensions of the garden area, you’re ready to move to the next step. 

Tired of your lawn’s high maintenance and water demands? Consider these low-water-use ground covers as lawn alternatives.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

2. Maximize available space when designing a raised-bed garden layout

Decide how many and what size beds you have room for within the available space. As you choose the size of beds to install, here are a few principles to consider:

• The beds should be no wider than 4 feet across so you can reach into the center. Beds against walls or fences should be 2 feet across or less. Keeping beds to this size eliminates the need to step in the beds, which causes soil compaction. 
• The length of a bed doesn’t matter – keep in mind you will need to walk around the bed to get to the other side.
• Ideally, the depth of the bed is from 12-24 inches deep. Almost all crops can be grown in this depth of raised bed. Most of my beds are 15 inches deep. 

3. Allow enough space between beds in your raised-bed garden design

 It’s tempting to fill the entire space with raised beds, but paths around the outside of your beds will make planting, maintaining, and harvesting your beds easier. The distance between raised beds should be at least 3 feet wide (4 feet is even better). 

Allowing as much room as possible gives plants room to grow, and also gives you room to get by. Think about if you will need access for a wheelbarrow and plan accordingly. Plants grow quickly, and many plants will overflow and fill in the open space between the beds.

4. Add vertical elements to your garden design

Training plants up a trellis gives you more space to garden, and being off the ground is better for vining plants.

To maximize sunlight, position trellises on the north edge of your garden bed or next to a fence or wall. Alternatively, shade sun-sensitive plants in hotter regions by having a trellis on the south side, filtering the sunlight for plants that need relief from the sun.

5. Take time planning your raised-bed garden design layout

When I was planning my new garden area, the first plan I sketched out seemed all right. However, when I spent time in the space and tried to visualize my plan, I realized it was too crowded and didn’t allow enough space between beds. 

• Make a scaled version of your beds and move them around graph paper.
• Use an online planning tool to get ideas of the design.
• Use weed cloth (pictured above) cut to the size of the raised beds to help visualize your design. 
• It is much easier to move the raised-bed garden layout design around using any of these methods, rather than moving the beds once they are in place. The axiom of “measure twice, cut once” certainly applies here. 

Curious how a raised bed layout fits into an overall backyard plan? See how I’ve arranged mine for sunlight, function, and flexibility.

6. Choose the best type of material for your beds

Research different types of beds and building materials to understand your options. Always use untreated wood. Beds made with redwood or cedar will last much longer than those made with pine. Rebuilding or replacing your beds every few years is not ideal.

Several factors go into choosing which type of material to use for your raised bed, and the cost is certainly a factor. My advice is to buy the best type of beds you can afford. If you have a garden plan in place, start small and add beds as finances permit. For step-by-step instructions on how to fill raised beds the right way, check out my complete guide.

Thinking about adding a metal raised bed? I love my metal garden bed (it comes with watering grids!) from Garden in Minutes. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

7. Add the beds to your space, but wait to fill them

Once the raised beds are in place, walk around the area (what worked on paper may not work in real life). Make adjustments while the beds are empty if necessary. Take time to ensure the beds’ distances are even and the beds are level. 

8. Fill the bed with the best type of soil for raised-bed gardens

Regular garden soil is too dense for raised beds. A mix of compost, peat moss or coconut coir, and vermiculite (Mel’s mix from Square-Foot Gardening) is ideal for raised-bed gardens. This post about the best soil for raised-bed gardens explains how to make my favorite soil blend and how to determine the amount of soil each bed will need. 

9. Set up your watering system before you plant

Adding a watering system after the fact may disrupt seeds or transplants, and it’s crucial your seeds and transplants don’t dry out. The best way to water a raised-bed garden will provide consistent and even watering, be easy to use and maintain, and ideally be simple to install.

I use garden grids from Garden in Minutes in all my raised beds. Read this post to learn more about the best way to water raised-bed gardens. 

10. Decide what to plant in your new raised-bed garden

Consider the size of plants when they have fully grown, along with the growth habit of different plants. Vegetables that like to grow vertically should be grown near a trellis, and plants that sprawl should be grown on the edge of the beds so they have room to grow.  Find a reliable planting guide for your area to help you decide what to plant. 

Taking time to carefully go through each of these steps will help your garden not only be productive but look great too. A well-designed vegetable garden adds beauty and bounty to your yard.

If you came across a gardening term you were unfamiliar with, check the Gardening Glossary for simple definitions.

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Gardener’s Supply Cedar Raised Beds are simple to install

Putting the Gardener’s raised beds together is pretty straightforward. The cedar wood is pre-cut, and all the pieces fit together nicely. I installed two 2′ x 6′ deep root cedar raised beds. They are 15 inches deep.

I wanted to add a protective coat to the beds, but didn’t want to use harmful chemicals found in normal wood-stain products that could leech into the soil that is growing my family’s food. Gardener’s has a non-toxic stain made from whey (a by-product of making cheese) that protects the beds from moisture, mildew, mold, and UV degradation. Before assembling the beds, I added the stain to the boards and let them dry overnight.

The next morning, we quickly put 2 beds together using the provided screws. Putting both beds together took less than an hour. Be sure and level your ground before installing the beds.

Gardener’s Supply Cedar Raised Beds are well-made

The cedar planks and aluminum posts fit together well. The boards were nice and straight and not warped. The aluminum corners are a functional way to ensure the beds last a long time. If I need to replace the cedar planks in the future, I can reuse the aluminum corners. With previous raised beds I had made, the corners were definitely the weakest part of the beds.

Once I put the beds together, they were sturdy and not wobbly. Ensure the ground is level before you put the beds in place.

Installing Gardener’s Supply Cedar Raised Beds is a great project to do as a family

My favorite part of this project was that my 7-year-old son could be a real help and a part of the project.

The wood stain is made from whey and completely non-toxic. He loved staining the beds with me, and I loved that I didn’t have to worry about the product being harmful to him.

Because all the pieces fit together well, my son loved helping me put it together. We talked about it being like a puzzle. This was a great project to teach him how to use a drill. The screws went in easily, and he could be successful.

e also helped me prepare the soil for planting, and was excited to add plants at the end. That’s always the highlight!

My overall review? This is a well-made product that is simple to install. I’m excited to grow vegetables in the raised beds this fall season and in the future. Thanks, Gardener’s Supply, for a great product. We used these beds when it was time for a garden makeover. Learn about our journey starting a garden in 2009 and the need for new raised beds in this post.

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