Keeping bulbs in containers lets you enjoy the blooms without sacrificing space in your raised beds. It’s a simple solution when garden space is limited or already spoken for. And after blooming, when the leaves start to die back, containers make it easy to move the whole pot out of sight so the bulbs can recharge for next year, without the pressure to clean up “ugly” foliage in your main beds.

You also get more control over watering, since bulbs in containers aren’t tied to in-ground drip systems that might water too often or too little. Just a little planning, and you’ll have beautiful blooms, right where and when you want them.

Why Grow Bulbs in Containers?

Container gardening is a smart choice for low-desert gardeners. It solves a few common challenges:

• No need to give up valuable raised bed space.
• Easy to move pots into shade, out of view, or closer to enjoy.
• Bulbs can die back naturally after blooming without cluttering the main garden.
• Watering is completely in your control.
• Container soil warms up and drains faster.

What Do I Mean by “Bulbs”?

In gardening, the term “bulb” is often used as a general term for plants that grow from underground storage structures. These structures hold the energy the plant needs to grow and bloom, and while they function similarly, they aren’t all true bulbs.

Here are the main types included in this guide:

• True Bulbs – like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. These have layered scales (like an onion) and a flower bud inside.
• Corms – like ranunculus, freesia, and gladiolus.
• Rhizomes – like calla lilies and cannas. These grow horizontally just below the soil surface.
• Tubers – like dahlias. These are thickened underground stems with buds that sprout.

Even though they’re technically different, they’re all planted and cared for in similar ways, especially when grown in containers. So for simplicity, we refer to them all as “bulbs” throughout this post.

Good Bulbs to Grow in Containers

Some bulbs are better suited to container growing than others. Here are a few options to consider:

Best for one season (replant each year):

• Tulips
• Daffodils
• Ranunculus

These typically don’t return well in hot climates and are best treated as annuals.

Good for reusing in containers:

• Amaryllis
• Dutch Iris

With the right care, these bulbs can be reused year after year.

Not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index covers everything from tulips and ranunculus to garlic and onions—organized A–Z for easy browsing. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

Choosing the Right Container

Use a pot with good drainage. Avoid sealed-bottom containers unless you add holes.

Clay pots dry out faster, but breathe well. Plastic holds moisture longer. Either can work; just monitor the soil’s moisture levels.

Choose a container that is deep enough to allow for planting at two to three times the height of the bulb.

For planting details, spacing, and care tips, grab my Flower Planting Guide. A helpful reference for growing flowers and bulbs in the low desert.

If you’re planting bulbs seasonally, my Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar is a great tool to stay on track.

Potting Mix and Planting Tips

Use a light, well-draining potting mix. A blend of potting soil, compost, and perlite or coarse peat is ideal. Avoid heavy garden soil or fresh manure, which can cause rot.

Plant bulbs in clusters for a fuller look. Group by bloom time or height, or try layering different varieties in the same container to extend the display. After planting, water deeply to help roots get established.

Watering and Fertilizing

Bulbs don’t need frequent watering at first. Water thoroughly after planting, then adjust based on conditions:

• In full sun: water every 7–10 days.
• In shade: stretch to every 14–20 days.
• Let the top layer dry slightly between waterings.

Fertilize two or three times during the growing season using an organic fertilizer that’s low in nitrogen. Excessive nitrogen leads to excessive leafy growth and fewer blooms. This is the one I like to use.

After Blooming: What Comes Next?

Once your bulbs finish blooming:

• Deadhead spent blooms, but leave the foliage in place to die back naturally.
• Treat as annuals: Remove and compost bulbs after the leaves dry.
• Saving bulbs: Let leaves die back completely, then lift, clean, and store bulbs in a cool, dry spot until fall.
• Or leave in place: Some bulbs can stay in the pot if kept in a protected, shaded area with minimal summer water.
• If replanting the pot: Remove bulbs before switching to summer flowers to avoid rot.

Final Tips

Bulbs in containers are easy to love. They bring seasonal color without taking over your garden, and they’re easy to manage, even in the low desert. You don’t need much space, and you don’t have to compromise your garden beds to enjoy spring and summer blooms.

Try a few different types this season. Take notes on what works well in your space, and experiment with different combinations until you find your favorites.

Related Resources

• Arizona Bulb Planting Guide: Low Desert Flowering Bulbs
• Arizona Bulb Growing Guide
• Order Bulbs for Fall Planting
• Arizona Flower Planting Guide
• How to Grow Tulips in the Low Desert

Share This Guide

This guide is a great starting point if you’re new to bulbs or looking for ways to enjoy them in a small space. Use the buttons below to share it on Pinterest or Facebook and help other gardeners grow bulbs in containers, even in hot climates.

The post How to Grow Bulbs in Containers in Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Drawing from years of hands-on gardening experience, I created this guide to help you enjoy the rewards of growing your own food—right outside your door. Whether you’re new to gardening or looking for a practical way to grow more, this book is a great place to start.

How to Grow Your Own Food: An Illustrated Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening

In How to Grow Your Own Food: An Illustrated Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening, I share 50 easy-to-grow vegetables, herbs, fruits, and flowers, each with detailed care instructions and beautiful, hand-drawn illustrations to inspire and guide you.

Growing your own food doesn’t have to be complicated. This book breaks it down step by step, helping even the most hesitant beginner feel confident. Whether you’re brand new to gardening or looking for fresh ideas, this guide is a practical, approachable resource.

Inside, you’ll find:

• Tips for getting started with container gardening
• How to choose the right container for each plant
• Ten simple steps to growing food in containers
• Helpful gardening terms and troubleshooting advice
• A quick reference guide for organic pest control

Plus, the illustrated plant profiles make it easy to choose what to grow and understand how to care for each one. You’ll also find guidance on selecting the right soil, containers, and methods to help your container garden thrive, no matter your space or experience level.

Order How to Grow Your Own Food: An Illustrated Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening

Ready to start growing your own food? How to Grow Your Own Food: An Illustrated Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening is available now!

If you’d like a signed copy, I have a limited number available and ready to ship — order yours here.

You can also order from your favorite bookseller:   

• Amazon
• Barnes & Noble
• Indie-Bound
• Books-A-Million

Sample listings:

Curious about what’s inside the book? These sample entries provide a glimpse into the approachable style and helpful guidance you’ll find throughout “How to Grow Your Own Food.” Each listing includes practical tips, growing instructions, and a hand-drawn illustration to help you get started growing your own vegetables, herbs, fruits, and flowers—right in containers.

Media inquiries :

For interviews, features, or review copy requests, please contact:

Sarah Armour
Email: sarah.armour@simonandschuster.com

More Resources to Help You Grow

Looking for the best soil to use in your containers?
You’ll find helpful recommendations in this post on the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening—many of the same principles apply to containers.

Want creative ideas for what to plant in?
From upcycled pots to vertical towers, explore these creative container gardening ideas to make the most of your space.

Gardening in a hot climate?
This guide to elevated garden beds in hot climates shares practical tips that pair perfectly with the container techniques from the book.

For Beginners Just Getting Started

If you’re new to growing your own food…
Start here with this beginner-friendly guide to container gardening for beginners, full of tips tailored to someone just getting started.

Thinking about starting a garden from scratch?
Read this step-by-step post on how to start a vegetable garden.

Live in Arizona or a similar climate?
Check out the Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide for region-specific planting tips that complement the book’s advice.

Learn More from Growing in the Garden

Want to learn more about me or the inspiration behind the book?
Visit the About Angela page to learn how my gardening journey began.

Looking for ongoing support and classes?
The Growing in the Garden Academy is where I share in-depth lessons and community resources for gardeners of all levels.

Prefer to watch and learn?
Subscribe to the Growing in the Garden YouTube channel for video tutorials, garden tours, and how-to guides.

Enjoyed the book?
Consider leaving a review on Amazon or Goodreads—it makes a big difference!

The post Container Gardening Book for Beginners: Grow Your Own Food appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Thinking about gardening in a GreenStalk during the summer, especially in a hot climate like Arizona? Vertical planters like the GreenStalk can be a great way to grow in a small space, but they come with extra challenges when temperatures rise. Containers dry out faster, heat builds up quicker, and limited soil volume can stress plants during the hottest months of the year.

In climates with mild winters, GreenStalk vertical planter really shine. The soil warms up quickly, you can move the planter to follow the sun, and crops grow well in the cooler months.

What We’ll Cover:

• Why I Started Using a GreenStalk
• What Is a GreenStalk?
• Best Soil to Use in a GreenStalk
• How to Set It Up
• What to Plant in a GreenStalk
• GreenStalk Gardening in Mild Winter Climates
• GreenStalk Gardening During Hot Summers
• Fertilizing Your GreenStalk
• Watering Tips
• What I’ve Learned So Far
• More Small Space Gardening Articles

Why I Started Using a GreenStalk

I first got a GreenStalk vertical planter because I was running out of room in my raised beds. It was fall, and I needed a place to plant garlic and onions. A few members of my GITG Academy classes had shared their success stories, so I figured, why not give it a try?

What started as a space-saving solution quickly became an experiment in small-space gardening. I was curious: how much could I grow in a small footprint? And how would it hold up to an Arizona summer?

Since then, I’ve been testing different crops and setups and learning a lot along the way. In this post, I’ll share tips for setting up, growing, and maintaining a GreenStalk—especially in a hot climate.

What Is a GreenStalk?

The GreenStalk is a tiered vertical planter with several pockets per level, stacked to form a tall, compact garden. It’s perfect for patios, balconies, and other small spaces. One of my favorite features is that it rotates, making it easy to adjust for sun exposure throughout the day.

Each tier holds about 0.75 cubic feet of soil, and a seven-tier GreenStalk holds just under 4 cubic feet total—plenty of room to grow a variety of crops.

You can purchase a GreenStalk here and use my discount code: GITG10 to save.

Best Soil to Use in a GreenStalk

Good soil is essential. I use a high-quality raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm and mix in a balanced organic fertilizer. Each pocket needs to drain well but hold moisture.

If you’re using the GreenStalk Leaf Planter like I am, each tier holds 0.75 cubic feet of potting mix (about 6 gallons). With 7 tiers, that’s a total of 5.25 cubic feet of soil (or about 42 gallons).

That’s actually a decent amount of soil for a vertical garden. Be sure to fill each tier all the way to the top—more soil means better moisture retention, deeper root space, and less temperature fluctuation.

Before planting, I also top off each pocket with worm castings harvested from my in-ground beds. It helps bring biology into the soil, especially important in a container system like this.

Read more: Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

How to Set It Up

Setting it up is simple, but one step is critical: make sure it’s level. The watering system is gravity-fed, so if the tower tilts even a little, some pockets may stay dry while others are overwatered. I learned that lesson the hard way. My ground slopes, so I placed a brick underneath the base to level it.

I placed mine in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade—a must for Arizona summers. The base rotates, so I spin it each time I water to give each side even light.

What to Plant in a GreenStalk

Incorporate companion planting principles, even in a small space like a GreenStalk. I try to include a combination of vegetables, herbs, and flowers throughout the planter to create a balanced and productive mini-ecosystem.

This mix helps attract pollinators, deter pests, and maximize space. For more ideas on how to pair plants together, check out my blog post on Companion Planting.

When choosing what to grow in a GreenStalk, look for compact, dwarf, or container-friendly varieties. These are naturally better suited to the shallow pockets and limited root space.

GreenStalk Gardening in Mild Winter Climates

If you live in a climate with warm winters and hot summers, the GreenStalk is ideal from fall through early spring.

• The soil heats up quickly, helping crops grow faster.
• You can move the planter to maximize sunlight as the sun angle shifts.
• It’s easy to cover during a cold snap.

In the low desert, fall can still be hot, especially in September and early October. Wait to plant cool-season crops like garlic until daytime highs consistently drop below 90°F (32°C). Planting too early in hot soil can cause sprouting issues (garlic may rot) or stress for young plants.

As the days get shorter in the fall, set your GreenStalk in full sun and rotate it every few days to encourage even growth.

Crops that grow well in winter: (click on crop name for growing guides)

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Kale
• Onions
• Broccoli
• Anemones

GreenStalk Gardening During Hot Summers

Summers in the low desert are intense, and container gardens need more care. These tips help keep a GreenStalk growing during the hottest months.

• Move it to a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade.
• Rotate the planter each time you water to give all plants equal light.
• Add a two to three-inch layer of mulch in each pocket to reduce evaporation and protect the soil from the sun.
• Water frequently and check individual pockets by hand to monitor moisture levels. As temperatures climb, expect to water more often—sometimes daily in extreme heat.
• Choose heat-tolerant crops and follow proper planting timing using my Zone 9/10 Planting Guide.

Crops I’m growing in my GreenStalk this summer: (click the name for growing guides)

• Bush beans
• Peppers
• Basil
• Zahara zinnias
• Trailing vinca
• Cantaloupe (experimenting with ladder mesh block trellis support)

I include GreenStalk vertical planters as part of my seasonal garden layout. See where and how I place them in my backyard design.

Fertilizing Your GreenStalk

Each pocket is like a small container—nutrients can wash out quickly. I fertilize once a month using a liquid organic fertilizer, diluted according to the label. Then I pour it directly into the top reservoir, where it filters down through all 7 tiers.

Since the full planter holds about 5.25 cubic feet of soil, check your fertilizer label and calculate the amount based on that volume. For example, if the instructions recommend 1 ounce per 1 cubic foot of soil, you’d use just over 5 ounces for the entire GreenStalk.

I’ve used AgroThrive’s organic balanced fertilizer for years, and even with all the other options out there, I keep coming back to it. It’s not available on Amazon—you order it directly from their website through this link.

Watering Tips

Watering is simple—just pour water into the top reservoir and let gravity do the work. But again, the key is making sure it’s level.

I also check pockets by hand occasionally to make sure everything is evenly moist. In hot weather, I water more often and use mulch in each pocket to retain moisture.

What I’ve Learned So Far

GreenStalks can be a valuable addition to a patio or small-space garden, especially in regions with mild winters. While summer gardening in a GreenStalk requires more attention, it’s possible to grow a surprising amount with the right setup.

You can purchase a GreenStalk here and use my discount code: GITG10 to save.

If it’s your only way to garden, don’t be too hard on yourself if your harvests are smaller than what others grow in big garden beds. You can still grow a lot in a little space—and that’s what matters.

• Plants don’t grow as large as they do in raised beds.
  
• Watering and fertilizing are simple if you stay consistent.
  
• I remove root balls when crops finish to make space for new soil.
  
• GreenStalks are easy to move and adapt to changing light.
  

More Small Space Gardening Articles

• How to Garden in Elevated Beds
  
• Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates
  
• Container Gardening for Beginners
  

The post GreenStalk Tips for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

It’s definitely possible—with a few key adjustments. Elevated beds are more exposed than in-ground options, but with the right setup, you can grow productive, healthy crops even in the heat.

In this post, I’ll share the methods I use to keep my elevated beds growing through the hottest months. If you garden in a hot, dry climate, these tips will help.

For more on choosing, setting up, and planting in elevated beds, read my post on How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds.

Looking for the bed I use? Click here to see it on Vego Garden and use one of my discount codes.

Here’s what we will cover:

• How starting early helps crops survive
• Watering strategies that work
• Smart summer placement
• What to plant in the heat
• What to do during a heatwave
• FAQ: Elevated Beds in Hot Climates
• Final thoughts about elevated garden beds in high temperatures

Start Early

Timing is everything when gardening in hot climates, especially in elevated beds. I plant early in the season to give crops time to establish strong root systems before the intense heat sets in.

If you wait too long, young plants may not be well-established enough to survive the stress of summer. Once they’re struggling in the heat, it’s much harder for them to recover. Starting early gives your garden the best chance to thrive. Use my monthly planting guides or Low Desert Planting Guides to help you decide what and when to plant.

Watering Strategies That Work

Elevated beds dry out more quickly than in-ground beds, so consistent, deep watering is key. Here’s what works well in my garden:

Ollas (buried clay pots):

These deliver slow, steady moisture right at the root zone. They also act as a natural moisture gauge—if they’re still full, the surrounding soil is holding water. If they’re low, it’s time to water.
I use the ollas from Growoya. I have 3 medium ollas in my 6 foot bed.

Learn more: Using Ollas to Water Your Garden

Wool pellets:

I mix these wool pellets into the top few inches of soil when filling the bed. They absorb and slowly release moisture over time, which helps maintain more even moisture levels in dry conditions.

Mulch:

Once seedlings are up, I apply 2–3 inches of organic mulch. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature, reduce evaporation, and keep the soil from drying out too quickly.

Check before you water:

Elevated beds need regular monitoring, but if you’re using high-quality soil, it will retain moisture better than typical container mixes. Always check the soil before watering and wait to water until the top inch or two dries out.

The goal is to keep soil consistently moist without waterlogging. A well-mulched bed with good soil and deep watering methods will outperform smaller containers and require less daily attention.

Smart Summer Placement of Elevated Garden Beds

In hot climates, where you place your elevated bed makes a big difference. Plants need sun to grow well, but too much afternoon sun can quickly stress them and dry out the soil.

The ideal spot receives morning sun and afternoon shade. This provides enough light for growth without exposing plants to the most intense heat of the day.

During hot months, I avoid:

• Western exposures, which receive harsh afternoon sun.
• Block walls or concrete, which reflect and radiate heat.

If your bed is on wheels, move it as needed throughout the season to find the right balance of sun and shade.

A thoughtful layout makes all the difference when it comes to raised bed gardens. Read this article for practical ideas and layouts to help you plan a garden that works with your space.

What to Plant in the Heat

In elevated beds during summer, compact, heat-tolerant crops are your best bet. Many warm-season favorites—like watermelon and sweet potatoes—can quickly overwhelm a small space, so variety selection and spacing are key.

Always start with healthy transplants and plant early so roots can get established before the heat sets in. Here are some ideas for summer gardening in elevated beds:

• Compact peppers and tomatoes (plant early and monitor—some may go dormant in the middle of summer)
• Armenian cucumbers and cantaloupe, trained vertically on a ladder mesh block trellis
• Basil, which thrives in the heat, can be harvested frequently
• Dwarf zinnias or other compact, heat-loving flowers for color and pollinators

Avoid overcrowding. Give crops enough room to grow. For more ideas, see my full guides on heat-loving vegetables and heat-tolerant flowers.

If you are gardening in the low desert or another hot, dry climate, the Desert Gardening page is the best place to start. It brings together all my seasonal planting guides, tips for creating shade and managing heatwaves, and advice for protecting plants from frost. Having everything in one place makes it easy to find exactly what you need for each season.

What to Do During a Heatwave

Regular summer heat is one thing, but when temperatures spike or linger for days, elevated beds need extra protection. Because they’re exposed on all sides, the soil heats up faster than in-ground beds, which can stress or even damage plant roots.

Here’s how I protect my elevated beds during extreme heat:

• Move the bed into shade if possible. Even shifting a few feet can make a big difference.
• Use shade cloth or a lightweight cover to block direct sun during the hottest part of the day.
• Check soil moisture more frequently. Even beds with ollas and mulch can dry out quickly during a heatwave.
• Water early in the day so plants are hydrated before peak heat.
• Mulch well to insulate the soil and reduce evaporation from the surface.

You can also monitor how hot the soil is getting using a soil thermometer. I use this soil thermometer from Amazon to track soil temps during the hottest months. For a full how-to, see my guide: How to Check Soil Temperature.

For more heatwave protection tips, read: Gardening in a Heatwave.

FAQ: Elevated Beds in Hot Climates

How deep should an elevated bed be?
At least 12 inches (30 cm). That depth supports strong roots and holds more moisture.

What’s the best watering method?
Oyas and deep watering with organic mulch. Avoid shallow, frequent watering.

Can I garden through the summer in an elevated bed?
Yes, with careful planning. Start early, mulch deeply, and avoid afternoon sun.

Should I add worms to my elevated bed?
No. Instead, mix in worm castings.

Final Thoughts on Elevated Beds in Hot Climates

Elevated garden beds can produce through the summer—even in hot, dry climates—if you set them up for success.

Good soil, early planting, deep watering, and smart placement make all the difference.

Don’t forget—you can shop the bed I use at Vego Garden and use my discount codes to save.

• GROWINGINTHEGARDEN5% for 5% off any elevated garden bed
• GROWINGINTHEGARDEN10OFF for $10 off your entire order

Looking for more small-space gardening inspiration? Check out:

• Cinderblock Garden setup video (blog post coming soon!)
• GreenStalk Gardening Guide Blog Post and GreenStalk YouTube Video
• Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening

Have questions about elevated bed gardening in the heat? Leave a comment.

The post Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

They’re also convenient. With no bending required, these beds are perfect for patios, balconies, and narrow side yards—especially if you need to chase the sun or escape the heat.

In this post, I’ll how to set up and use elevated garden beds to make the most of a small growing space.

Looking for the bed I use? Click here to see it on Vego Garden and use one of my discount codes.

Here’s what we will cover:

• Why Use an Elevated Garden Bed?
• Challenges of Elevated Beds (and How to Manage Them)
• Best Soil Mix for Elevated Beds
• Watering Elevated Beds with Ollas
• What to Plant in Elevated Beds (and Why It Matters)
• Placement and Microclimate Tips
• Final Thoughts on Elevated Garden Beds

Why Use an Elevated Garden Bed?

There are a lot of good reasons to garden in an elevated bed, especially if you’re short on space or looking for a more convenient way to grow:

• They’re easier on your back, with no bending required.
• The compact size fits patios, balconies, and narrow side yards.
• Beds with locking casters can be moved to catch winter sun or escape summer heat.
• Soil warms up faster in cooler months, helping cool-season crops grow more quickly.
• They’re tidy, low-maintenance, and perfect for beginning gardeners.

Unlike a collection of separate containers, elevated beds let your crops share space and soil, much like a traditional raised bed.

That shared environment encourages healthier plant growth, easier watering, and better use of space. And because they’re portable, you get the flexibility of containers without losing the benefits of a cohesive garden bed.

Challenges of Elevated Beds (and How to Manage Them)

Elevated beds do have a few challenges, especially in hot, dry climates. Because they’re exposed on all sides, the soil heats up and cools down faster than in-ground beds. This leads to more frequent drying and greater temperature swings, which can stress plants.

Here’s how to manage those challenges:

• Fill the bed all the way to the top. Shallow soil dries out faster and offers less insulation for roots.
• Use mulch to moderate soil temperature. In both hot and cold weather, a 2–3 inch layer of mulch helps insulate the soil surface.
• Use ollas or other deep watering methods to help maintain steady moisture levels, especially in summer.
• Skip adding in-bed vermicomposting bins. These beds can get too hot in summer for worms to thrive. Instead, mix in worm castings for long-lasting nutrition.
• Be mindful of placement. In winter, place beds in a sunny spot to warm the soil. In summer, move them into filtered light or add shade with a pergola or cloth.
• Protect from temperature extremes. During heat waves or cold snaps, move the bed to a sheltered location if possible, or use shade cloth or frost protection.
• Watch the surface underneath. Elevated beds drain well, but that runoff can stain concrete or tile. Place a mat, tray, or other barrier if needed.

For more detailed strategies, see my post on growing in elevated beds in hot climates.

Best Soil Mix for Elevated Beds

Soil quality matters even more in small beds. I always fill beds to the rim, which allows for deeper roots and better moisture retention.

Here’s what I use:

• High-quality raised bed mix (I recommend the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm)
• Worm castings – Learn about the benefits of worm castings in this guide.

More tips here: Best Soil for Raised Beds

Watering Elevated Beds with Ollas

Using ollas is my favorite way to water elevated beds. These buried clay pots slowly release water right at the root zone, helping keep moisture levels consistent, especially important in hot, dry climates where soil can dry out quickly.

• In a 4-foot bed, I use two medium-sized ollas
• In a 6-foot bed, I use three medium-sized ollas

You can find the ones I use here: GrowOya

Once buried, only the neck of the olla is visible. I keep an eye on the water level, when it drops, the surrounding soil may be dry and need more water. If the olla stays full, the surrounding soil is probably still moist.

This method not only conserves water but also encourages deeper root growth and healthier plants.

What to Plant in Elevated Beds (and Why It Matters)

Maximize the space in elevated beds by choosing dwarf or compact varieties of your favorite crops. These varieties are easier to manage in smaller spaces and still provide abundant harvests. Follow the Square Foot Spacing Guidelines to make the most of every inch.

Plant a mix of vegetables, herbs, and flowers to support pollination and build a small ecosystem that welcomes beneficial insects. This diversity helps with pest control, increases biodiversity, and creates a more productive, resilient garden.

Try pairing:

• Compact vegetables (like bush beans or patio tomatoes)
• Upright or columnar herbs (such as ‘Emerald Towers’ basil or parsley)
• Flowers (like dwarf zinnias or calendula)

For more ideas, check out my lists of favorite warm-season companion plants and cool-season companion plants.

Placement and Microclimate Tips

Elevated beds perform best when they’re matched to the season and microclimate of your space. In cooler months, place the bed in full sun to take advantage of every bit of warmth and light. This helps soil stay warmer and supports faster growth of cool-season crops.

In the summer, it’s a different story. Elevated beds heat up quickly, so it’s best to position them where they’ll receive morning sun and afternoon shade—enough light for healthy growth without the stress of peak heat.

If you’re gardening in a hot climate, avoid placing beds next to block walls or concrete surfaces that reflect and radiate heat. Beds with casters are ideal—move them throughout the year to chase the sun in winter and escape the heat in summer.

Elevated garden beds can be a game changer in hot climates, but a thoughtful layout makes all the difference. Read these articles for practical design ideas and functional layouts to help you plan a garden that works with your space.

Final Thoughts on Elevated Garden Beds

Elevated garden beds are a great option for new gardeners, small yards, and anyone who wants to grow food without the strain of bending over.

With good soil, smart crop choices, and the right placement, you can grow a lot—even in a small footprint.

Looking for more small-space gardening inspiration? Check out:

• Cinderblock Garden setup video (blog post coming soon!)
• GreenStalk Gardening Guide Blog Post and GreenStalk YouTube Video
• Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening

Don’t forget—you can shop the bed I use at Vego Garden and use my discount codes to save.

• GROWINGINTHEGARDEN10OFF for $10 off your entire order
• GROWINGINTHEGARDEN5% for 5% off any elevated garden bed

Have questions about elevated bed gardening, or want to share how yours is doing? Leave a comment—I’d love to hear from you.

The post How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If you’ve ever wanted to try the famous “Three Sisters” planting method but were short on space, a Three Sisters Grow Bag Garden may be just the solution. Traditionally grown in a shared plot, the Three Sisters— corn, beans, and squash — can also thrive together in 20-gallon (about 75 liters) grow bags. By adding an olla for efficient watering, you can keep your container garden healthy even in hot, dry climates. Below, I’ll cover the basics of the Three Sisters: how to adapt them to a grow bag, when to plant each crop, and alternatives to corn if you prefer a different “sister.”

Article Index:

• What Is the Three Sisters Planting Method?
• Grouping at Least Three Grow Bags for Corn
• Alternatives to Corn in a Three Sisters Container Garden
• Advantages of Each Option
• Three Sisters Planting Times by Climate
• Three Sisters Step-by-Step Guide: Planting in Each 20-Gallon Grow Bag
• Care & Maintenance for Three Sisters Container Gardens
• FAQ: Your Common Questions Answered
• Final Thoughts: Enjoying Your Homegrown “Sisters” Container Garden
• References

What Is the Three Sisters Planting Method?

Indigenous peoples across North America have used the Three Sisters planting method for centuries.¹ Here’s how it works:

• Corn grows tall, providing a natural trellis for climbing beans.
• Beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which benefits the other plants.
• Squash sprawls around the base, shading the soil to retain moisture and discourage weeds.

Get seeds for the Three Sisters here.

The synergy among these plants means each “sister” contributes something valuable to the others. This is the original companion planting method. Learn more about the benefits of companion planting in this guide.

Grouping at Least Three Grow Bags for Corn

If you plan to grow corn, it is best to use​​ at least three grow bags clustered together. Corn relies on wind pollination; a single bag or even two bags often won’t provide enough pollen transfer for full ears. If you only have space for one or two bags, consider a corn alternative like amaranth, okra, or sunflowers.

An additional benefit of growing multiple bags is the insulating effect grouping them close together can have. By placing them side by side, the bags help shield one another from extreme temperature fluctuations and reduce moisture loss, which is particularly beneficial in hot, dry regions. This cooperative microclimate helps keep roots cooler and soil more consistently hydrated, promoting healthier plant growth overall. Learn more about how to garden in grow bags in this guide.

If you’re short on space, a grow bag version works well. See how I scaled up this method in a larger Three Sisters raised bed garden using square-foot gardening.

Alternatives to Corn in a Three Sisters Container Garden

While corn is a traditional “sister,” growing a small amount can make it challenging to achieve proper pollination. Amaranth, okra, and sunflowers make excellent tall “sister” stand-ins. Corn growing guide.

Amaranth is a showstopper with its bright flower heads, and you can harvest both the leaves and seeds. It also handles the heat like a pro, so it’s a great pick if you’re gardening in a warm region like the low desert of Arizona. Amaranth growing guide.

Get amaranth seeds here.

Okra is another heat-loving plant that grows tall and sturdy, giving beans plenty to climb on. It’s known for producing pods all season, provided you harvest them regularly. If you’re sensitive to the tiny spines on the pods, wearing gloves during picking can make your life much easier. Okra growing guide.

Get okra seeds here.

Sunflowers, meanwhile, bring a gorgeous pop of color and produce seed heads you can snack on or share with birds. The catch is their tendency toward allelopathy, meaning they release substances that can inhibit the growth of nearby plants. A study in the journal Plants confirms this effect can impact neighboring crops if they share soil or grow too close.² To minimize issues, look for branching sunflower varieties bred for cut flowers and refresh or amend your soil each season. Sunflower growing guide.

Get branching sunflower seeds here.

Advantages of Each Option

• Corn: Traditional approach, strong trellis, tasty harvest of fresh ears.
• Amaranth: Heat-hardy, attractive, and yields nutritious greens and seeds.
• Okra: Ideal for hot climates, it produces a steady harvest of pods.
• Sunflowers: Beautiful blooms, seeds for snacks or wildlife, but keep an eye on allelopathic effects.

Three Sisters Planting Times by Climate

• Cool Climates (Zones 3–5): Sow corn (or alternative) in late spring (May) after the last frost. Plant beans two weeks later and squash around the same time as beans.
• Moderate Climates (Zones 6–8): Start corn (or an alternative) from late April to early May. Once the soil warms, add beans and squash by mid-to-late May.
• Warm Climates (Zones 9–10, including Low Desert of Arizona): 
  • First round: Plant corn in late February to early March. Beans and squash by mid-March.
  • Second planting: Late summer (August) if conditions allow.

Three Sisters Step-by-Step Guide: Planting in Each 20-Gallon Grow Bag

1. Preparing the Container

A 20-gallon grow bag provides enough depth and width for corn, beans, and squash roots to coexist. One 20-gallon bag can hold one “set” of Three Sisters. These are the grow bags I use.

• Soil Mix: Fill each 20-gallon bag with high-quality potting mix combined with compost or well-aged manure. Leave about 2 inches (5 cm) of space from the top. I use the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm in my raised beds and containers.
• Olla (Optional): If you live in a hot, dry region, place an olla (a porous clay pot) in the center before adding soil. Keep the neck exposed so you can fill it with water. Purchase ollas here. (You can use any size. I usually use the medium or large olla in the 20-gallon grow bags).

Why Use an Olla?

• Saves water by delivering it directly to the root zone.
• Reduces evaporation, which is a real plus in hot, dry climates such as the low desert of Arizona.

2. Plant Corn (or Alternative)

• Number of Seeds per Bag: 4–5 seeds.
• Depth: 1 inch (2.5 cm).
• Spacing: Evenly around the center, 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart.
• Timing: Sow after your last frost date, when nighttime temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C).

Alternatives to Corn:

• Amaranth: Plant 1-3 per bag.
• Okra: Plant 1-2 per bag.
• Sunflowers: Plant 2-3 single-stemmed varieties or one branching variety per bag. Branching varieties reduce allelopathic issues (2).

3. Add Pole Beans

Learn more about how to grow beans in this guide.

• Number of Seeds per Bag: 4–6 seeds total.
• Depth: 1 inch (2.5 cm).
• Spacing: Plant each bean seed a few inches from the base of each tall plant so it can climb.
• When to Plant: About two weeks after corn (or alternative) germinates, when corn stalks are ~6 inches (15 cm) tall.

4. Plant Squash

Learn more about how to grow squash in this guide.

• Number of Seeds per Bag: 2–3 seeds. Thin to strongest seedling. 
• Depth: 1 inch (2.5 cm).
• Spacing: Near the perimeter of the grow bag, leaving room for vines to sprawl.
• When to Plant: Same time as beans or within a week afterward.

Care & Maintenance for Three Sisters Container Gardens

• Watering
  • Fill the olla and water the soil each time. In hot weather, check daily.
  • Top the soil with mulch to reduce evaporation. Learn what to use for mulch in this guide.
• Fertilizing
  • While beans do fix some nitrogen, corn and squash are heavy feeders.
  • Use a balanced organic fertilizer or add compost every few weeks.
• Pollination Help
  • If growing corn, gently shake the stalks when tassels appear to help disperse pollen.
  • Group at least three bags for better wind pollination.
• Pest & Disease Watch
  • Common issues: aphids, squash bugs, powdery mildew.
  • Practice good air circulation and remove diseased leaves promptly.
• Harvest
  • Corn: Kernels should release a milky fluid if pierced, and silks turn brown.
  • Beans: Harvest when the size of a pencil. Pick often to encourage new pods. 
  • Squash: Harvest summer squash young (tender skin); let winter squash mature until skins are hard.
  • Okra: Pods at 3–4 inches (8–10 cm).
  • Sunflowers: Cut blooms for bouquets or let seeds mature for roasting/bird feed.

FAQ: Your Common Questions Answered

• Can I plant multiple Three Sisters grow bag garden sets side by side?
  Yes. Placing bags close together helps if you’re growing multiple corn plants for better wind pollination.
• Can I grow bush beans instead of pole beans?
  Absolutely. Bush beans don’t need a tall trellis, but you’ll lose the vertical climbing aspect. Still, they can complement corn or other tall alternatives.
• Can I use black-eyed peas, asparagus beans, or tepary beans instead of pole beans?
  Yes! Black-eyed peas, asparagus beans (yardlong beans), and tepary beans are all excellent heat-tolerant alternatives to traditional pole beans. Black-eyed peas and tepary beans are well adapted to arid conditions, making them a great choice for hot, dry climates. Asparagus beans thrive in warm weather and grow long, slender pods that can easily climb corn, amaranth, okra, or sunflowers. Just like pole beans, all of these options will help fix nitrogen in the soil, benefiting the other plants in your grow bag.

If you’re growing black-eyed peas, asparagus beans, or tepary beans, check out my guides on how to grow black-eyed peas, asparagus beans, and tepary beans for specific planting and care tips.

More FAQ about Three Sisters grow bag gardens

• Is one 20-gallon bag enough if I plant corn?
  Aim for three or more grow bags of corn for best pollination and bigger yields. If you have limited space, consider using a corn substitute like okra, amaranth, or sunflowers in a single bag.
• Do I need to thin my seedlings?
  Yes, if more than 4–5 corn or tall alternative seedlings come up in one bag, thin them to avoid overcrowding. The same goes for beans and squash; keep the healthiest seedlings.
• How often do I refill the olla?
  It depends on your climate. In very hot weather, check it daily. In moderate conditions, once or twice a week is often sufficient.
• What if I only have a 15-gallon bag?
  You can still try a mini Three Sisters but plant fewer seeds (perhaps 3 corn/alternatives, 2 beans, and 1–2 squash). Keep an eye on root space and water needs.
• Aren’t sunflowers toxic to other plants?
  Sunflowers can be allelopathic, meaning they release chemicals that may inhibit neighboring plants’ growth. Choose less allelopathic varieties and refresh your potting mix each season to reduce these issues.

Final Thoughts: Enjoying Your Homegrown “Sisters” Container Garden

Whether you stick to the traditional corn, beans, and squash or experiment with amaranth, okra, or sunflowers, a 3 Sisters Grow Bag Garden offers a space-saving, eco-friendly way to produce fresh food. You’ll also carry on a time-honored gardening tradition adapted for modern container gardening. With some planning, regular watering via an olla, and some basic care, you can harvest delicious produce from your porch, patio, or backyard.

References

1. Native Seeds/SEARCH. (n.d.). How to Grow a Three Sisters Garden. Retrieved from https://www.nativeseeds.org/blogs/blog-news/how-to-grow-a-three-sisters-garden.
2. Plants journal, MDPI. (2020). Study on sunflower allelopathy.

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The post Three Sisters Grow Bag Garden appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The varieties of citrus I want to grow outnumber the spots I have available for planting. Luckily, citrus grows very well in containers. Through the years, I’ve learned what works and what doesn’t. Learn how to grow citrus in containers with these tips, and in no time, you will be a container citrus growing pro!

Article Index:

Why grow citrus in containers?

1. Choose the best container for planting citrus
2. Plant citrus at the right time
3. Select citrus varieties that grow well in containers
4. Use the correct type of soil
5. Choose the best location
6. Plant your citrus tree correctly
7. Citrus in containers will need more frequent watering
8. Feed your citrus regularly
9. Prune container-grown citrus as needed
10. Protect citrus from freezing temperatures

Why grow citrus in containers?

Growing citrus in containers has plenty of advantages.

• Limited Space: Containers let you experiment with multiple citrus varieties even if you don’t have much room.
• Unfavorable Weather: Move potted citrus trees indoors or to a protected area if the climate is too cold or unpredictable.
• Poor Soil and Drainage: Control soil quality and drainage by growing citrus in containers, solving any ground-related issues.
• Root Encroachment: Keep citrus roots out of nearby raised beds or garden plots, so all plants have the space they need to thrive.

1.  Choose the best container for planting citrus

The container should be twice as large as the citrus nursery pot to give the roots room to grow. A half whiskey barrel is my favorite size for growing citrus. Large ceramic or terra cotta pots also work well. Look for a container at least 2 feet wide (61 cm) and 2 feet (61 cm) deep. It should hold at least 20 gallons (about 2 cubic feet of soil) or more. Get more information about the best sizes for containers in this guide.

Place on a plant dolly before filling with soil in cold climates so the container can be moved to a sheltered location during the coldest months of the year.

The pot should have several drain holes around its circumference. Drill additional holes if necessary. Having the pot off the ground on pot feet rather than sitting in a tray (standing water can breed mosquitoes).

2. Plant citrus at the right time

The best time to plant citrus trees in containers is in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. In mild winter areas, there is a second planting window for citrus in the fall. If you plant in the fall, be aware that newly planted citrus is more susceptible to frost and needs frost protection. 

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

3. Select citrus varieties that grow well in containers

Some citrus is better suited to containers than others. Here is what to look for:

• Look for healthy trees with shiny leaves. 
• Buy citrus trees grafted onto dwarf rootstock. Dwarf trees produce the same size and quality of fruit but yield 50-60 percent less fruit. 
• Look at the roots and make sure they do not circle the nursery container. If they do, the citrus tree may be root bound and will not grow well.
• Smaller trees are easier to plant and suffer less from transplant shock problems. 

Larger types of citrus trees (like lemons and grapefruit) may outgrow the container quickly and need to be repotted or have roots trimmed back. 

Smaller types of citrus that do well in containers include: Improved Meyer lemon, Bearss lime, Mandarins, Australian Finger Lime, Calamondin, and Kumquat.

This blog post shares information about 30 different types of citrus and may be helpful as you determine which type of citrus to plant in your container. Get more help deciding which citrus to plant in this guide.

4. Use the correct type of soil for your container citrus tree

The best soil for container-grown citrus is a potting mix with compost, coconut coir, peat moss, and vermiculite or perlite. Learn more about this soil combination here.

The potting soil should be light and fluffy and drain well. Soil that is all organic matter (compost) will decompose too quickly and become compacted. Garden soil and/or native soil is too heavy for containers and will not give the roots the air they need.

5. Choose the Best Location for Container-Grown Citrus

• Prioritize Sunlight: Citrus trees need at least 8 hours of sunlight daily.
• Morning Sun, Afternoon Shade: A spot with morning sun and some late afternoon shade is ideal in most regions.
• Reflective Heat: If you live in a cooler climate, placing your container near a sunny wall that reflects heat can boost growing conditions.
• Hot Climates: In very warm areas (like the low desert of Arizona), provide natural afternoon shade to reduce stress on container-grown plants. Because containers can overheat more quickly than ground soil, keeping citrus slightly shaded during the hottest parts of the day is especially important.

6. Plant your citrus tree correctly

Planting citrus correctly from the start is crucial for a healthy, productive tree. Follow the instructions below to ensure your citrus is set up for long-term success.

Fill the container halfway with soil; set the tree in place.

Loosen compacted roots lightly but keep root ball intact.

If you are going to add an olla (oya) to your garden, add it to your container before you fill it with soil.

Fill the container with soil to the same level of the nursery pot. Do not bury the root crown or graft (the small bump where the fruiting type was grafted to the rootstock, typically a few inches above the root ball). 

Mulch well, but push back soil and mulch away from the trunk.

7. Citrus in containers will need more frequent watering

Check your containers frequently; citrus in containers dry out more quickly than citrus in the ground. Dip your finger into the soil an inch or so, and if it feels dry, it’s time to water. Use a moisture meter to give you a more exact idea of how wet the roots are.

Pay attention to your citrus tree. Your plants will tell you if their water needs aren’t being met. Leaves that are wilted and then perk up after watering are a sign of roots that have been allowed to dry out too much. Yellow, curled leaves that don’t perk up after watering may mean they are getting too much water. Citrus roots like moist but not soggy conditions.

How often you water will be influenced by the weather. During hot dry weather, water more often. During cooler weather, you will need to water much less.

Each time you water, water thoroughly making sure the water is being absorbed and not just draining out the hole in the bottom. If this happens to your soil, it might be hydrophobic. To remedy this, gently dig in the soil with a garden spade; don’t turn the soil over, just loosen it. Next, sprinkle the surface lightly with water. After several sprayings, the soil should begin to break up and loosen, allowing more water to be absorbed. Adding a 1″–2″ layer of mulch can help prevent this. 

Hydrophobic soil is soil that repels water instead of absorbing it. When this happens, water will bead up and run off the surface rather than soaking in, causing plants to struggle with water uptake.

Here in the low desert, I add ollas (oyas) to all of my container-grown plants, including citrus. Water the container thoroughly, and fill the olla each time you water. This allows you to go a little longer between watering than containers without ollas. During the warmest months of the year in hot climates, you may still have to water every day, but the plant roots have access to more water. Learn more about how to water containers in this guide.

8. Feed your citrus regularly

Because frequent watering means nutrients are washed away and roots can’t go looking in the ground for additional nutrients, it’s also a good idea to feed your citrus regularly. 

Once your citrus tree is planted, knowing how to fertilize citrus trees is key to helping it grow strong and start producing fruit.

Use an organic fertilizer formulated for citrus. Typically for containers, fertilize more often but use less fertilizer (follow label instructions for amounts). Fertilize citrus in containers each month during the growing season. Get more basic care tips for citrus in this guide.

9. Prune container-grown citrus as needed

The best time to prune citrus is in the spring, after the danger of frost has passed and before new growth appears. Use water-based latex paint or tree wrap to cover any exposed bark. 

Exposed bark can lead to serious damage in hot climates—learn how to protect citrus bark and prevent sunburned citrus bark in this guide.

When pruning citrus in containers, prune for 3 things: 

• Prune suckers below the graft union; they sap energy from the tree and do not produce fruit. Learn more about how to identify citrus suckers in this guide.
• Prune dead branches. 
• Citrus can also be pruned to keep the citrus a desired size and/or shape. Avoid pruning lower branches.

10. Protect citrus from freezing temperatures

All citrus is frost-tender and needs to be brought indoors or covered with frost cloth when nighttime temperatures go below 35°F (1°C). For more information about protecting citrus during freezing temperatures read this guide.

If you move citrus indoors, provide additional grow lights for the tree. Move the container back outside after the danger of frost has passed in the spring. Dwarf Improved Meyer Lemon, Kumquat, and Calamondin are all more cold-hardy types that do well in containers.

Get more tips for avoiding common citrus mistakes in this guide.

Find more crops, including citrus, that grow well in containers in this guide.

If you enjoyed this post about how to grow citrus in containers, please share it.

The post How to Successfully Grow Citrus in Containers appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

Container Gardening Tips

1. Tomatoes
2. Peppers
3. Citrus Trees
4. Potatoes
5. Summer Squash
6. Lettuce
7. Eggplants
8. Peas
9. Sweet Potatoes
10. Carrots
11. Cabbage
12. Onions
13. Garlic
14. Okra
15. Swiss Chard
16. Kale
17. Cauliflower
18. Strawberries
19. Fig Trees
20. Herbs

Container Gardening Tips

• When choosing to grow in containers, look for “dwarf”, “bush”, or “compact” varieties. These are smaller versions of full-size plants that do better in containers. 
• Because containers limit the size of the roots and available water, adding an olla to your container helps provide regular water for your plants. The olla is regularly filled with water, which seeps out through the porous wall of the pot into the surrounding soil and root zone of the plant. I use ollas from Growoya in most of my containers. 
• If you’re wondering which size container to use, this guide to container sizes will be helpful.
• The type of soil you use is important. Use potting soil made for containers. Regular garden soil is too heavy for containers. If you want to reuse potting soil, use the tips in this guide.
• To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

Not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index covers everything from vegetables and herbs to fruit and flowers—organized A–Z for easy browsing. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening​

1. Tomatoes

Choose a large enough pot (at least 10 gallons) and water it well. Tomatoes grow happily when given an oya or self-watering container that will ensure consistent watering. Plant one tomato plant per container, and add a trellis when you plant. Determinate varieties are best for all but the largest containers.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow tomatoes.

2. Peppers

Good drainage is a must for peppers, and containers provide that. Peppers also grow well with an olla. Choose at least a medium size container (5 gallons or larger). They also prefer warm soil; containers will warm up more quickly in the spring. You can bring those same pots inside to overwinter the peppers in cold climates. Provide support for peppers at the time of planting.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow peppers. 

3. Citrus Trees

Growing citrus in containers limits their size so that I can add more varieties to my garden.  Growing citrus in containers also keeps the roots out of your garden beds. In cooler climates, container-grown citrus can be brought indoors. Use an extra large container that holds at least 20 gallons of soil. Learn how to grow citrus in containers in this guide.

4. Potatoes

I prefer growing potatoes in containers – harvesting is so simple! When the potatoes are done, dump the container into a wheelbarrow. Choose at least a medium size container (5 gallons or larger) and use slightly acidic soil.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow potatoes in containers.

5. Summer Squash

Summer squash can take up a lot of room in your garden but grow happily in a pot (5 gallons or larger). Leave plenty of room around the container for the plant to grow large. Ollas are a great choice to add with squash. Most winter squash grow too large to grow well in containers, but smaller varieties like mini jack pumpkin also do well. Read this post to learn more about how to grow summer squash.

6. Lettuce

Lettuce, spinach, arugula, and other greens are a perfect choice for small containers (2 gallons or larger). Most greens have a small root system and grow quickly. Give lettuce regular access to water (an olla is great for this) and they often grow better in containers. Lettuce is one of the best vegetables for container gardening. 

Read this post to learn more about how to grow lettuce.

7. Eggplants

Choose compact varieties like fairytale and bambino. Eggplants prefer warm soil; if you grow in containers, you can plant earlier in the spring—stake eggplants to support branches and grow in a medium size container (5 gallons or larger).

Read this post to learn more about how to grow eggplants.

8. Peas

Put supports in place at time of planting. Peas’ shallow root systems make them a good choice for medium size containers (5 gallons or larger). Peas are easy to plant from seed. Look for dwarf varieties of peas like little Marvel, Sugar Ann, and Tom Thumb. 

Read this post to learn more about how to grow peas. 

9. Sweet Potatoes

Growing sweet potatoes in a container (at least 10 gallons) keeps them contained. Sweet potato vines grow large; let them grow and direct all that energy to the growing potatoes. Growing in containers makes harvesting sweet potatoes simple – dump the container into a wheelbarrow.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow sweet potatoes.

10. Carrots

Choose a container that is 10-12 inches deep and holds at least 3 gallons of soil. Plant carrots by seed, and thin to 3 inches apart when carrots are 2-3 inches tall.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow carrots.

20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening (cont.)

11. Cabbage

Cool-season crop that grows well in containers. It grows well in containers that are at least 10-12 inches deep and hold at least 5 gallons of soil. 

Read this post to learn more about how to grow cabbage.

12. Onions

I love interplanting these in containers with other crops. Onions are an excellent companion plant. When growing bulbing onions, choose a container at least 12 inches deep. When growing green onions, choose a container at least 6 inches deep. 

Read this post to learn more about how to grow onions.

13. Garlic

Garlic is a great choice for containers. Grow it all by itself or interplant with other crops. Garlic grows well even in small containers (2 gallons or larger).

Read this post to learn more about how to grow garlic.

14. Okra

This warm-loving crop grows through summer and into fall. Interplant quick-growing crops like beans or carrots, and then let okra take all the space when those finish. Grows best in a medium size container (5 gallons or larger). 

Read this post to learn more about how to grow okra.

15. Swiss Chard

Swiss chard grows happily in small containers (2 gallons or larger). This good-for-you vegetable tolerates a little cold and a little heat. Easy to grow from seed or transplant, harvest as needed for months.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow Swiss chard.

16. Kale

Cool-loving and easy to grow. A frost improves kale’s flavor. Grows well even in small containers (2 gallons or larger). Kale is one of the best vegetables for container gardening.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow kale.

17. Cauliflower

Can be tricky to grow because cauliflower doesn’t like it too hot or too cold. It grows well in containers that are at least 10-12 inches deep and hold at least 5 gallons of soil.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow cauliflower.

18. Strawberries

Growing strawberries in containers keeps them off the ground and away from pests. Day-neutral and ever-bearing types of strawberries do best in containers. Spinach is an excellent companion crop for strawberries. Choose a container that is at least 8 inches deep and holds at least 3 gallons of soil.

Read this post to learn more about how to grow strawberries.

19. Fig Trees

Growing fig trees in containers helps to control their size and slow growth. In cooler climates, they can be brought indoors. Use an extra large container that holds at least 20 gallons of soil.

20. Most Herbs

Most herbs, especially invasive ones like oregano, mint, and lemon balm, grow well in almost any size container and will expand to the size of the container.

Growing in the Garden Container Gardening Resources:

If you’re looking for more resources, I have several videos and blog posts that provide step-by-step guides, tips, and tricks for successful container gardening. I even wrote a book about container gardening, which covers everything from choosing the right containers to harvesting your first crop. You’ve got this! 

• Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Steps for Success
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• The Pros & Cons of Container Gardening
• Gardening in Grow Bags: 5 Tips for Success
• The Best Way to Water Containers
• Grow Anywhere: Smart and Creative Gardening Container Ideas
• Container Gardening Playlist on YouTube

If you enjoy container gardening, you’ll love the benefits of elevated beds—check out my guide, How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds, to learn how to get started.

Looking for more small space gardening ideas? Don’t miss my post on GreenStalk Gardening Tips, where I share what’s worked (and what hasn’t) in my Arizona garden.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

If you enjoyed this article about the best vegetables for pots and container gardening, please share it.

The post Container Gardening: Best Vegetables to Grow in Pots appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

If you’re ready to get creative and give everyday items a second life, join me as I show you how to reuse materials, save space, and turn unexpected objects into thriving, eye-catching garden containers. Let’s explore these container gardening ideas together and discover new ways to grow what you love—no matter how much (or how little) space you have.

Article Index:

• Repurpose just about anything when you look for creative container gardening ideas
• Front door flower basket
• Repurpose mailboxes for container gardens
• Use a bird bath as a container garden
• Use toolboxes for a container garden
• Garden in concrete blocks
• Container garden in half-whiskey barrels
• Grow a container garden in compost bins
• Grow bags – add space anywhere
• Maximize space with a GreenStalk vertical planter

Repurpose just about anything when you look for creative container gardening ideas

One of the best things about container gardening is that almost anything can be turned into a planter if you get creative. Everyday items can be repurposed to grow plants and add personality to your garden. Look around your home, garage, or local thrift store for unique containers like vintage buckets, wooden crates, metal tubs, or even an old sink. Gardening with kids? Containers are a fun and simple way to give children their own space to garden.

Not only does repurposing save money, but it’s also a sustainable way to reduce waste while creating a garden space that’s uniquely yours. When choosing items to repurpose, make sure they have proper drainage or can be adapted with drilled holes, and always consider the size and needs of the plants you’re growing. You can save even more money buy refreshing old potting soil with the information in this guide.

Keep in Mind

• Planter Depth Matters: The depth of your container determines the size of the roots it can support, so choose accordingly. Learn the best size containers to use in this guide to container sizes.
• Metal Containers Heat Up: Small metal containers can get very hot and dry out quickly, especially in summer. Stick to drought-tolerant plants during hotter months.
• Watch for Lead Paint: Vintage items may have lead paint, so avoid using them for edible plants if you’re unsure about their safety.
• Handle With Care: When drilling drainage holes in metal containers, be mindful of sharp edges and shards—use gloves and work carefully.
• Plant With Confidence: Use this list of the 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening to help you decide what to plant.
• Understand the Basics: If you are new to gardening, use this Container Gardening for Beginners guide.

I wrote a book about container gardening. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

Front Door Flower Basket: A Beautiful and Practical DIY

I wanted to grow flowers on my front door, and this basket turned out to be the perfect choice. I lined it with coco coir to hold the soil and plants securely, and I couldn’t wait to fill it with colorful blooms. It was such a fun project, and I love how it adds a welcoming, vibrant touch to my entrance.

To make it practical, I take the basket off the door when it’s time to water, which helps keep the door clean and makes watering easier. Keep in mind that once the basket is filled, it can get heavy, so be sure to use a strong hook to support it. With a little planning, a front door flower basket is a simple, rewarding way to bring a bit of garden charm to your entryway.

Repurpose mailboxes for container gardens

Old mailboxes can add a fun and eye-catching touch to your garden. Their compact size and sturdy structure make them a great fit for a variety of plants. Whether you’re working with a vintage find or a modern mailbox that’s no longer in use, a little creativity can transform it into a decorative and functional planter.

To get started, drill a few small holes in the bottom for drainage. Fill the mailbox with a lightweight potting mix. These containers are perfect for shallow-rooted plants like succulents, herbs, or trailing flowers such as nasturtiums and petunias. If you’re using a vertical mailbox, cascading plants can create a dramatic effect.

Mount the mailbox on a post for added height, or set it on the ground for a rustic vibe. An old mailbox can become a charming focal point in your garden.

Use a bird bath as a container garden

A bird bath can make a charming and functional addition to your garden—not just for birds but for plants too. The shallow design is ideal for creating a stunning display of shallow-rooted succulents, or cheerful annuals like violas.

When planting in a bird bath, remember that the shallow soil can dry out quickly, especially in warm weather. You’ll need to hand water this type of container often. If you’re growing succulents, place bird bath in filtered sunlight and make sure it gets afternoon shade.

Use toolboxes for a container garden

Toolboxes make surprisingly great planters, especially if you’re looking for something unique and compact. I wanted to add a planter to the ladders in my garden, and a toolbox sitting on one of the steps turned out to be the perfect fit.

Vintage toolboxes are easy to find at thrift stores, or you might already have one gathering dust in your garage. Their sturdy structure works well for annual flowers like zinnias or herbs like thyme. Just drill a few drainage holes in the bottom, fill it with a lightweight potting mix, and you’ve got a creative container garden with a rustic touch.

Garden in concrete blocks

Using concrete blocks in my garden started as a practical solution. I needed an affordable, DIY-friendly way to create a garden border. Once the border was in place, I noticed the block openings were perfect for planting. I filled the holes with compost and planted nasturtium seeds. That was five years ago, and thanks to winter rains, the nasturtiums reseed themselves and come back year after year.

In the summer, though, the holes heat up too much and dry out quickly, making it difficult for plants to thrive. To avoid stressing plants, I leave the holes empty during the hottest months. If you want a year-round solution, consider planting drought-tolerant varieties or using mulch to help retain moisture.

Container garden in half-whiskey barrels

The large size and rustic charm of half-whiskey barrels make them one of my favorite options for container gardening. Their ample space allows for growing a wide variety of plants, from dwarf citrus trees to nearly any vegetable or flower.

Whether you’re creating a stunning floral display, planting a productive vegetable garden, or adding a fruit tree to your space, half-barrels provide plenty of room for roots to grow while adding character to your garden. If you’re thinking about growing citrus in half-whiskey barrels, learn more about growing citrus in containers in this guide.

Volunteer Pumpkins in the Compost Bin: A Happy Surprise

In the spring, my compost bins are usually overflowing, and I love spreading that nutrient-rich compost around the yard. One year, I got a surprise—Halloween pumpkin seeds sprouted in the bins and started growing right through the compost. Instead of pulling them out, I decided to embrace the unexpected. I thinned the seedlings down to one plant per bin, and before I knew it, I had healthy, thriving pumpkin plants growing straight from my compost barrels.

One of the joys of gardening is staying open to surprises and letting volunteer plants have their moment. Whether they pop up in a compost pile, a raised bed, or a forgotten corner of the garden, these little surprises are often a reminder that plants have a way of thriving where you least expect it.

Grow Bags: A Simple and Versatile Container Garden

Grow bags are an inexpensive and easy way to expand your garden space. You can find them on Amazon or even repurpose reusable canvas bags for a budget-friendly option. Their portability and flexibility make them perfect for any garden size or setup.

Grow bags can dry out quickly, so it’s important to monitor moisture levels regularly. If you’re new to using grow bags, check out this post for more tips on gardening in them. When not in use, they’re easy to clean, fold, and store away until you need them again. Another great feature is their versatility—you can move them around your garden to make the most of available space and sunlight as the seasons change. If you’re interested, you can read more here about how to grow potatoes in grow bags. It’s a fun, flexible way to try new things in your garden!

Maximize space with a GreenStalk vertical planter

When space is limited, a vertical planter like the GreenStalk is an excellent solution. With its seven-tier design, this freestanding vertical planter provides 42 planting pockets, each with a 7-inch depth, allowing you to grow a variety of leafy greens, root vegetables, and herbs—all in the same compact footprint.

To get the best results, fill the pockets with high-quality potting soil, as garden soil can be too heavy for proper drainage. Fertilizing is simple—just add liquid fertilizer to the top tray when watering, and it distributes evenly throughout the tiers. Keep in mind that above-ground containers can dry out quickly in summer, so regular watering is essential to keep plants thriving. Visit my post on GreenStalk Gardening Tips to learn more about what has worked (and what hasn’t) in my Arizona garden. If you’re interested in purchasing a GreenStalk, you can see them here. Use code GITG10 to save.

Growing in the Garden container gardening resources:

If you’re looking for more resources, I have several videos and blog posts that provide step-by-step guides, tips, and tricks for successful container gardening. I even wrote a book about container gardening, which covers everything from choosing the right containers to harvesting your first crop. You’ve got this! 

• Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Steps for Success
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening
• Gardening in Grow Bags: 5 Tips for Success
• The Best Way to Water Containers
• Container Gardening Playlist on YouTube

If you enjoy container gardening, you’ll love the benefits of elevated beds—check out my guide, How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds, to learn how to get started.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

If this post about creative container gardening ideas was helpful, please share it.

The post Grow Anywhere: Smart and Creative Container Gardening Ideas appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Whether you like them baked, mashed, french fried, roasted or any number of other ways, potatoes are a delicious staple. Try a homegrown potato to taste the difference in crispness and freshness. You’ve come to the right place to learn how to grow potatoes in containers. 

Article Index:

1. Understand how potatoes grow​
2. Choose the right potato to plant​
3. Prepare the potato before planting​
4. Plant potatoes at the correct time​
5. What type of container to use
6. Plant the right number of potatoes for your container
7. Plant potatoes correctly
8. Don’t let potatoes dry out​
9. Put your container in the best location
10. Know when to harvest potatoes

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Understand how potatoes grow​

Potatoes have small “eyes” on their surface that sprout when planted. These sprouts develop into stems and leaves above ground. The plant directs energy downward into the roots, forming thickened stems called tubers underground. These underground tubers are the potatoes you harvest.

Growing potatoes in containers is a good choice if you’re gardening with kids. The potatoes are easy to plant are fun to harvest. This article has more tips for gardening with kids.

2. Choose the right potato to plant​

In climates that have a shorter season, such as the low desert of Arizona, plant “early” and “mid-season” determinate varieties of potatoes. Determinate varieties are faster growing potatoes that produce one smaller harvest quicker (60-90 days) than indeterminate varieties. Varieties to try are Yukon Gold, Purple Viking, and All Red.  

If you have a longer growing season choose indeterminate (“late season”) varieties of potatoes. Indeterminate potatoes grow a larger crop with multiple layers along the stem and take between 110 and 135 days to produce. Late season potatoes continue to set new potatoes along the stem until they are harvested or frost kills them off. Indeterminate varieties to try are Russian blue, Canela Russet, and Ramona.

Buy certified disease-free seed potatoes from online retailers or garden centers for best results.

3. Prepare the potato before planting​

Put seed potatoes where the temperature is between 60-70℉ and where they will be exposed to light. This encourages the potatoes to sprout (a process called ‘chitting’). Once potatoes have sprouted, if potatoes are larger than an egg, cut it into pieces. Ensure each potato piece has 2-3 eyes. 

Allow potato pieces to dry at room temperature for 2-3 days to give cut edges time to heal or scab over. When the edges feel leathery with no signs of moisture, they have properly dried. Smaller potatoes (about the size of an egg) can be left whole. Discard any potatoes with soft spots. Learn more about how to chit potatoes in this guide.

4. Plant potatoes at the correct time​

In mild winter climates, where freezing temperatures are uncommon, the best time to plant potatoes is in late fall or winter for a spring harvest. The cooler months offer optimal growing conditions without the risk of frost damage. In the low desert of Arizona, plant from September through January.

In colder climates, it’s ideal to plant potatoes in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked and has warmed to about 45°F (7°C). This is typically a few weeks before the last expected frost date, allowing your potato plants to establish before the heat of summer arrives. 

Potatoes are frost-sensitive, and the plants will die in a hard frost. If plants are killed by frost, harvest potatoes, no matter the size, within a week or two to keep them from rotting.  Learn more about how to protect your plants from frost in this guide.

5. What type of container to use

When growing potatoes in containers, it’s important to choose one that provides ample space and proper drainage. Grow bags are an excellent option because they allow for good airflow and have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. You can also use large pots, barrels, or buckets—just ensure they have adequate drainage holes at the bottom. The container should be sturdy enough to support the weight as the potato plants grow and filled with a quality potting mix.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

6. Plant the right number of potatoes for your sized container

The most important rule when using containers is to match the number of seed potatoes to the size of container you are growing them in. As a rough guide, each potato plant needs about 3 gallons to grow well. Overcrowding potatoes results in smaller potatoes.

7. Plant potatoes correctly

Place a 3-4 inch layer of loose soil, amended with compost, in the bottom of the container. (Roll down sides of container if desired). Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soil. Use a soil blend made for acid-loving plants or amend soil with an acid mix fertilizer according to package directions. 

Plant seed potatoes with sprouted-side up in soil, and cover them with 2-3 inches of additional soil or potting mix. 

As potatoes sprout, cover the sprouts halfway when they are about 6 inches tall. Continue this process until the top of the container is reached at which point the plant will continue to grow without being covered up. 

Hilling the potatoes ensures that determinate potatoes are not exposed to sunlight and turn green and ensures a larger harvest of indeterminate varieties.

8. Don’t let potatoes dry out​

Potatoes need consistent moisture to grow well. Potatoes grown in the ground look for moisture in the surrounding soil while container-grown potatoes rely on the moisture you provide. Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry.

Consider feeding actively-growing potatoes with an acid-loving organic fertilizer or seaweed extract, each time you add more soil (or once or twice during the growing season). Mulching with straw helps to retain moisture.

9. Put your container in the best location​

The optimal placement varies depending on your climate:

Cold Climates: In cold climates, potato plants need six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day to grow well. Full sun helps make up for the shorter growing season and cooler temperatures. Place your containers in spots that receive maximum sunlight, especially during the morning and early afternoon. This ensures the plants get enough energy for strong growth and proper tuber development. Additionally, plenty of sunlight warms the soil faster, promoting quicker growth and reducing the risk of frost damage during the early stages of the growing season.

Mild Winter Climates (e.g., Low Desert): In regions with mild winters, such as the low desert, choose a location that receives full sun to ensure vigorous growth and ample tuber development during the cooler months. Full sun exposure in these climates supports healthy potato plants and maximizes yield. Spring-planted potatoes do best with afternoon shade to prevent them from drying out too quickly.

10. Know when to harvest potatoes

‘New potatoes‘ are simply immature potatoes that are harvested before the potatoes are fully mature.

For determinate potatoes check 60-90 days after planting and for indeterminate varieties check 100-120 days after planting. Dig down with your hand near a stem to check the size of the potatoes. Harvest potatoes that are large enough to eat as desired.

Harvest ‘new’ potatoes just after the plants flower (if the variety you are growing is one that flowers).  For larger potatoes, wait until the tops begin to turn yellow and die back. To increase the storage time of potatoes, allow them to stay in the ground for an additional 2 weeks following the dieback of the plants. 

When you are ready to harvest the entire container, gently dump it out into a wheelbarrow, being careful not to damage the potatoes. Let potatoes cure for a few hours outside. Brush loose soil off the potatoes, and store them in a cool, dry place until you are ready to use them.  

New potatoes are best eaten within a few weeks of harvest. Mature potatoes free of blemishes will store longer.

If you’re harvesting potatoes this season, don’t miss my go-to recipe: Blue Cheese Thyme Scalloped Potatoes. It’s simple, satisfying, and seriously delicious.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which type of container should I use?

There are several types of containers suitable for growing potatoes:

• Grow Bags: Fabric grow bags offer excellent drainage and airflow, promoting healthy potato plants.
• Large Pots or Planters: Ensure they are at least 12 inches deep with drainage holes at the bottom.
• Buckets: 5-gallon buckets with holes drilled for drainage can be an economical choice when filled with quality potting mix.
• Barrels or Tubs: Provide ample space for potato pieces to develop into a robust root system.
• Wooden Crates or Boxes: Sturdy options that allow plants to grow freely; line them with landscape fabric to hold the potting mix.
• Recycled Containers: Any deep container with drainage holes—like old laundry baskets or trash cans—can be repurposed for growing potatoes.

No matter which container you choose, make sure it has good drainage and is filled with a nutrient-rich potting mix to support your potato plants as they grow.

How deep should the container be?

Your container should be at least 12 to 18 inches deep to accommodate the developing tubers. Start by filling the container with about 4 inches of potting mix. Place your seed potatoes or potato pieces on top, then cover them with another few inches of soil. As the potato plants grow, continue adding more potting mix to cover the stems, leaving some leaves exposed. This encourages more tubers to form along the buried stems.

How often should I water the potatoes?

Consistent moisture is key for healthy potato plants. Water your potatoes whenever the top inch of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Containers can dry out more quickly than garden beds, so you may need to water more frequently, especially in hot weather. Ensure that excess water can drain out through the drainage holes to prevent soggy soil, which can lead to rot.

How do I prevent my potatoes from turning green?

Potatoes turn green when exposed to sunlight, developing a substance called solanine that can be harmful if eaten in large amounts. To prevent this, keep your growing potatoes well-covered with soil. As the plants grow, continue to add more potting mix to the container, a process known as “hilling.” This not only prevents greening but also encourages more tuber production. Also, avoid using grocery store potatoes for planting, as they may be treated with chemicals to inhibit sprouting and could increase the risk of disease. Instead, use certified seed potato pieces for the best results.

More questions? Ask below, and I’ll do my best to answer them. Happy growing!

Find more vegetables that grow well in containers in this guide.

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Best Sweet Pea Varieties Index:

• Understanding Sweet Pea Varieties
• Varieties for Mild Summer Areas
• Best Varieties for Hot Summer Areas
• Sweet Peas that Grow Well in Most Climates
• Best Types for Containers
• Highly Scented Sweet Peas
• Best Sweet Pea Varieties for Cutting Flowers
• Everlasting Sweet Peas (Perennial Sweet Peas)

Understanding Sweet Pea Varieties

Sweet peas come in many fragrances, sizes, and colors. Some varieties are more fragrant than others, and many are sensitive to day length, which can affect their growth. Choosing the correct type of sweet peas is essential to ensure success in your garden.

You can read my complete guide to growing sweet peas here. Read this article if you’re looking for tips for growing sweet peas as a cut flower.

Varieties for Mild Summer Areas

You can grow traditional, long-flowering sweet peas with excellent fragrance in areas with cooler, mild summers. Here are a few top picks for these regions:

• ‘Saltwater Taffy Swirls’: Known for its soft pastel colors and sweet scent.
• ‘Spencer Mix’: A classic variety with large, ruffled blooms and strong stems; perfect for cutting.

Best Varieties for Hot Summer Areas

If you live in a region with hot summers, like the low desert of Arizona, you’ll want to choose heat-tolerant sweet pea varieties that bloom earlier in the season and tolerate higher temperatures.

• ‘Perfume Delight’: Specially bred for hot climates, this variety offers excellent fragrance even in the heat.
• ‘Jewels of Albion’: An excellent choice for warm areas, known for its rich jewel-toned colors and durability in high temperatures.

Sweet Peas that Grow Well in Most Climates

Not sure which one to choose? These sweet pea varieties are versatile and can grow well in various climates.

• ‘Chiffon Elegance’: With delicate, chiffon-like blooms, this variety is both beautiful and hardy.
• ‘Velvet Elegance’: Known for its rich, velvety blooms in deep colors, this variety performs well across various growing conditions.

Best Varieties for Containers

If you’re short on space or prefer to grow sweet peas in containers, these shorter sweet pea varieties are perfect for containers or hanging baskets.

• ‘Knee High’: A dwarf variety that stays compact and produces a bounty of blooms.
• ‘Windowbox’: Another great option for container gardening. This variety offers a shorter height and manageable growth.

These varieties would thrive in a GreenStalk garden. Don’t miss my post on GreenStalk gardening tips, where I share what’s worked (and what hasn’t) in my Arizona garden.

Highly Scented Sweet Peas

If fragrance is your priority, these sweet pea varieties are known for their strong and sweet scent. These varieties will fill your garden and home with their unforgettable perfume.

• ‘Zinfandel’: With its deep, rich burgundy flowers, Zinfandel looks luxurious and carries a powerful fragrance.
• ‘April in Paris’: A classic variety with creamy white petals tinged with lavender. It’s highly fragrant and perfect for a scented garden.
• ‘Raspberry Twirl’: This bi-color beauty has striking raspberry and white blooms and a strong, sweet scent.
• ‘Strawberry Fields’: Known for its pink and red blooms, this variety is visually stunning and wonderfully fragrant.

Best Sweet Peas for Cutting Flowers

If you’re growing sweet peas to enjoy as cut flowers, these varieties are perfect for bouquets. They offer long, strong stems and beautiful blooms that will last in a vase.

• ‘North Shore’: This variety has large blooms and long stems, perfect for cutting and making a statement in any bouquet.
• ‘Blue Celeste’: Known for its delicate blue color, this variety produces long stems and is perfect for cutting.
• ‘Royal Wedding’: A white-flowered sweet pea with a gentle fragrance, its long stems and striking appearance make it ideal for floral arrangements.

Everlasting Sweet Peas (Perennial Sweet Peas)

Everlasting sweet peas, also known as perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolius), are a great option for gardeners in hot summer areas. Unlike annual sweet peas, which often fade when the temperatures rise, everlasting sweet peas can bloom longer into the season. Unfortunately, the blooms don’t last all summer for me here in Arizona, but they last until about June; other types generally finish up by the end of April here in the low desert.

Get perennial sweet pea seeds here.

They often act as perennials in cooler climates, returning year after year with little effort. Unlike many annual sweet peas, perennial varieties typically do not have a strong fragrance. However, their beauty and hardiness more than make up for it.

Whether growing in a hot desert climate or a mild summer garden, there’s a sweet pea variety for you. Once you’ve selected the right type, you’ll be one step closer to enjoying these beautiful blooms in your garden and vase.

Want to add more color to your garden with flowers?

Arizona annual flowers planting guide helps you learn when to plant flowers in Arizona, and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

If this post about choosing the best sweet pea variety was helpful, please share it.

The post Sweet Pea Varieties: Best Ones to Grow appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If the plant in the container struggled with pests or disease, it’s best to dispose of the soil, clean out the container, and begin with fresh potting soil.

Article Outline:

1. Empty Soil Onto a Tarp or Wheelbarrow
2. Remove Old Plant Material
3. Loosen and Water the Soil
4. Mix in Fresh Worm Castings
5. Incorporate Organic Fertilizers
6. Add New Potting Mix
7. Fill Containers Back Up

1. Empty Old Potting Soil Onto a Tarp or Wheelbarrow

The first step in refreshing old potting soil is to dump out the existing contents of the container onto the tarp or into a wheelbarrow.

Once the soil is out, it’s a good time to clean the inside of the container with a stiff brush and ensure the drainage holes are not blocked. Rinse it well and let it dry in the sun. Also, scrub off any ollas. Clean ollas will wick water more efficiently.

2. Remove Old Plant Material

Removing old plant material is the next step in reinvigorating old container soil. This includes pulling out spent plants, roots, and any debris left in the soil.

NOTE: If there isn’t much soil left after the plant material is gone, it may be best to start over with high-quality potting soil.

3. Loosen and Water the Soil

Over time, container soil can become compacted, making it harder for roots to grow and for the soil to hold water and nutrients. Compacted soil can also turn hydrophobic, repelling moisture instead of absorbing it. To fix this, gently break up the soil with a hand trowel or garden fork. Aerating the soil improves its structure, making it easier for roots to spread and water to absorb and drain properly. Finally, water the soil thoroughly, giving it time to hydrate fully.

4. Mix in Fresh Worm Castings to Refresh Old Potting Soil

After cleaning out and loosening the soil, it’s time to mix in fresh worm castings. I use in-bed vermicomposting bins, and the harvested castings are free! Worm castings, in particular, are an excellent way to refresh old potting soil. They are rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes that help improve soil health and support plant growth. Learn more about the benefits of worm castings in this blog post. The ideal amount is about 5% worm castings in the soil. You can also add some fresh compost to the spent potting soil.

5. Incorporate Organic Fertilizers to Refresh Old Potting Soil

Add some balanced organic fertilizer to refresh your old potting soil. Used container soil is often devoid of nutrients because they are rinsed out of the soil each time you water. This is the one I like to use, but any balanced organic fertilizer will work. Use the least expensive one you can find. The back of the package should tell you the correct amount to add to your soil.

6. Add New Potting Mix

The final step to refresh old potting soil is to mix in some fresh potting mix. I like to add an equal amount of fresh soil to the old soil. This helps ensure plenty of perlite, coconut coir, or other moisture-holding ingredients essential for container gardening soil. I use the Raised Bed Mix from Arizona Worm Farm in all my raised beds and containers. Learn more in this blog post.

If you are not sure which tools and products are worth it, I put together a list of my favorite garden supplies. From soil amendments to everyday essentials, these are tried-and-true items that help me keep my garden thriving.

7. Fill Containers Back Up

Add the refreshed potting soil to the clean container. Fill the container all the way up with soil. Don’t add fillers like rocks. Containers naturally limit the size of roots, so giving plants access to as much soil as possible is essential.

Additional Container Gardening Resources on My Blog:

• How to Plant Pots, Tips for Container Gardening
• The Pros and Cons of Container Gardening
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Tips for Success
• 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

If this post about how to refresh old potting soil was helpful, please share it.

The post How to Refresh Old Potting Soil and Save Money appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

1. Grow mint in a container to prevent spreading
2. Choose an isolated area to plant mint
3. Plant a bottomless container in the ground to control mint

Grow mint in a container to prevent spreading

The easiest way to prevent mint from spreading uncontrollably is to grow it in a container. The size of the container limits the size of the mint. Adding an oya, or porous clay irrigation vessel, will keep the soil consistently moist without allowing it to become waterlogged. Learn more about how to grow mint in this article.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

Choose an isolated area to plant invasive mint

If you prefer to grow mint in the ground, consider planting it in an isolated area away from other plants. Ideally, there is a barrier between where the mint is growing that is not watered.

This method will help contain its spread and prevent it from overtaking your garden if you live in a dry climate. Unfortunately, if the soil is generally moist where you live, then mint will spread. You will need to try a different method.

Look for a spot that doesn’t receive a lot of direct sunlight, as mint prefers partial shade. I have had remarkable success growing mint in an isolated shaded area of my low desert garden for several years. 

Plant a bottomless container in the ground to control mint

Another method to prevent mint from spreading is to use a 10-inch nursery pot with the bottom cut off. Plant the mint inside the pot and bury it in the ground. The roots can grow freely while restricting the horizontal spread of its rhizomes. This allows you to enjoy fresh mint without worrying about it taking over other areas of your garden.

By following these tips for containing invasive spreaders like mint, you can enjoy their beauty and benefits without worrying about them taking over your garden. Remember, you are in control.

Additional Herb Resources:

• Read this post for more information about growing herbs in the low desert of Arizona.
• Learn about other perennial herbs in this blog post.
• Learn about how to grow herbs in hot climates.

If this post about preventing mint from spreading was helpful, please share it.

The post Invasive Mint: How to Prevent Mint from Spreading appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline

1. Try several varieties of mint
2. Know that mint is invasive
3. Plant mint at the right time
4. Plant and care for mint correctly
5. How to grow mint in containers
6. How to grow mint indoors
7. Harvest mint often
8. Additional herb resources

1. Try several varieties of mint

Add variety to your garden by planting different types of mint. 

• Peppermint: Compact and low-growing.
• Chocolate mint: Dark stem; grows to about 2′ (60 cm) tall.
• Pineapple mint: Variegated leaves; aggressive spreader.
• Spearmint (Mentha spicata): Handles the heat well and can grow up to USDA hardiness zone 11.

If you’re looking to diversify your herb garden, be sure to check out my comprehensive guide on how to grow sage.

2. Know that mint is invasive

A Mediterranean native, mint thrives in temperate regions and is remarkably easy to grow. It often spreads rapidly in garden spaces if not contained. Mint is invasive and quickly spreads within raised beds and open garden areas.

Mint sends new plants from spreading roots and horizontal runners with nodes that root down and spread like a ground cover. Don’t plant mint in your garden beds—it will pop up everywhere! To keep mint contained, grow it in its own container or a bed with different mint varieties. Learn more about how to control mint in this article.

3. Plant mint at the right time

Plant mint after the last spring frost date. The ideal soil temperature for planting mint is 55-70°F (12-21°C).

In the low desert of Arizona, plant mint transplants from February to April and again from October to November.

4. Plant and care for mint correctly

• Mint is best grown from transplants or cuttings. Seeds are not true to type. Growing mint from seed is not recommended.
• Plant mint in fertile, well-draining soil.
• Plant mint transplants at the same depth as nursery containers. 
• Space mint plants 12-18″ (30-45 cm) apart. For square-foot gardening, plant one mint per square foot. 
• Mint does best in partial shade, especially in hot weather climates like the low desert of Arizona. In cold climates, plant in areas that receive plenty of sunshine.
• Mint needs regular water; water when the top inch or two of soil is dry. 
• Keep mint flowers cut back to encourage leaf production.

Mint may go dormant depending on where you live. In cold climates, it will go dormant over the winter, and in places with hot summers, it will go dormant over the summer. It may look haggard and won’t actively grow when it’s dormant. Leave it alone, as the older growth protects the plant from heat and cold.

As temperatures moderate, you will see it come back to life and see new growth on the base of the stems – that’s the time to cut it back and give it a hard prune. Once a year, after pruning, give it a nice topping of compost. It doesn’t need additional fertilizer

5. How to grow mint in containers

Choose a container with at least 2 gallons (9L) of soil. In hot climates, a small pot will heat up too much for mint to grow well.

Mint grows best in a container by itself or with other mint varieties. Keep the soil evenly hydrated. In hot climates, consider using an olla.

Mint plant care: Cut back at the beginning of each season to encourage new growth and feed container-grown mint with a thick layer of compost. If growth slows or the plant is not growing well, it may need to be divided or moved to a larger container.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

6. How to grow mint indoors

• Keep mint evenly moist. Do not let mint dry out. 
• Provide extra humidity by misting the plant with water every few days. 
• Give the mint light with supplemental lighting for 12-13 hours daily.
• The ideal indoor temperature for mint is between 65-70°F (18-21°C).
• Feed mint a half-strength fish emulsion dose as needed throughout the growing season.

7. Harvest mint often

Mint leaves are ready to harvest about 30 days after transplant when new growth appears and the plant is 4- 6″ (10-15 cm) tall. When harvesting, cut mint stems back to a pair of leaves. This encourages new branching, and frequent harvesting encourages more growth.

Young tender leaves have the most flavor. Older leaves can become woody. It’s best to use fresh leaves, which can be added to salads, smoothies, and desserts and used as a garnish. They are also a favorite ingredient in tea and can be freeze-dried or dehydrated for preservation.

Here’s an easy recipe: Take 1 cup of cut-up or bruised mint and mix it with a half gallon of water. Chill the mixture in the fridge and then strain it before serving. Serve it over ice.

Fresh mint with watermelon and feta cheese is incredibly refreshing in the summer.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

What to do about yellowing leaves

• Check your watering habits. Too much water can cause leaves to turn yellow. If the soil is always moist, it may cause yellow leaves.
• Give mint enough sunlight. Aim for at least 4–6 hours a day.
• Trim off yellow leaves to encourage new growth.
• Grow mint in fertile soil.

How to prevent root rot

• Use well-draining soil or a pot with drainage holes.
• Water only when the top inch or two of soil feels dry. You will water more often during dry spells than during cool, wet weather.

Treating and preventing common mint pests

• If needed, apply a mild insecticidal soap and remove heavily infested leaves.
• Look for bugs like aphids or spider mites under leaves.
• Wash them off with a gentle spray of water.

Frequently Asked Questions About Mint Plant Care

How can I control the spread of mint in my garden?
You can mint in a pot or use a root barrier to keep it in check. Read this post for more tips about how to keep mint from becoming invasive.

Which companion plants work well with mint?
Plants in the mint family, like mint, oregano, rosemary, and thyme, can supply nectar for parasitic wasps. These wasps lay their eggs under the skin of tomato hornworms, which helps keep hornworm populations in check. Growing these herbs near vegetables like peppers and tomatoes gives parasitic wasps a convenient food source and encourages them to stay around to control pests.

Can I grow mint in low-light conditions?
Mint grows best with at least 4-6 hours of sunlight, but it can survive in light shade, especially in hot summer climates. Mint may grow slowly in low light, but it’s usually pretty forgiving.

How do I revive a wilting mint plant?
Check if the soil is too wet or too dry. Give it a good drink if it’s parched, or hold off on watering if it’s soaked. A quick trim of damaged stems can help the plant focus on healthy new growth. Remember, mint won’t look its best during a long, hot summer especially if it is in full sun. Once temperatures moderate in the fall, give the mint a trim to reinvigorate it.

Additional Herb Resources:

• Learn how to preserve herbs by freeze-drying in this blog post.
• Read this post for more information about growing herbs in the low desert of Arizona.
• Learn about other perennial herbs in this blog post.
• Learn about how to grow herbs in hot climates.

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The post Growing Mint appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

It might feel like you need “all the things” to start a garden. That’s not true. Start small and start where you are. ⁣My first garden was a 4’x4′ raised bed made from pine boards that Home Depot cut for me. That bed lasted over ten years and grew a huge amount of food.

Starting a garden on a budget does not have to be daunting. Good advice to follow is, “Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can.” Here are ten simple ways to start your garden without breaking the bank:

Article Outline:

1. Start Small
2. Reuse and Recycle
3. Swap Seeds and Plants
4. Make Your Own Compost
5. Choose Perennials
6. Grow from Seeds
7. Water Wisely
8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures
9. Use Natural Pest Control
10. Choose High-Yield Crops
11. Find Ways to Use Your Harvests

Bonus Tip

1. Start Small:

To minimize costs and workload, begin with a small sunken bed or container garden. It’s easier to expand later as your confidence grows. A sunken bed has minimal start-up cost and can be a very effective way to garden. To learn more, read this post about sunken-bed gardening.

2. Reuse and Recycle:

When starting your garden, use items you already have around the house. Old containers, cement blocks, and bathtubs can be used as planters to save money. Think outside the garden box and use the ideas in this blog post about creative container gardening.

Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates is a great place to start if you’re working with a small space or just want an easier setup to manage.

3. Swap Seeds and Plants:

Swap seeds or cuttings with friends, neighbors, or online communities. This way, you can get a variety of plants for free.

• Seed packages often contain more seeds than you will use; split packages with friends.
• Learn how to save seeds so you always have some to share.
• Local libraries often have seed libraries where you can check out seeds for free!

Starting a garden can feel overwhelming. Read this guide to help you avoid new gardeners’ most common mistakes.

4. Make Your Own Compost:

Composting kitchen scraps and yard waste will save money on soil amendments and fertilizers. Although this can be daunting at first, begin composting kitchen scraps with in-bed vermicomposting. If you have a large amount of yard waste, learn how to compost in this blog post.

5. Choose Perennials When Starting Your Garden on a Budget:

Perennials come back year after year, saving you money in the long run. Some of my favorite perennials are asparagus, artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, and strawberries. Learn more about growing perennials in this blog post.

6. Grow from Seeds to Save Money Gardening:

Growing plants from seeds is cheaper than buying seedlings or mature plants. Don’t be intimidated by starting plants from seed. If they have good soil and you start them at the right time, seeds will grow!

7. Water Wisely:

Depending on where you live, water can be an expensive part of gardening. Water in the early morning or late evening to reduce evaporation and save on your water bill. Learn other watering principles in this blog post. Learn how to harvest and channel rainwater here.

Mulch reduces the need for watering and weeding, saving time and money. Places like Chipdrop provide gardeners with free woodchips. Learn more about how to use mulch.

8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures:

Building your own trellises, cages, and supports, instead of buying them, is a simple way to start a garden on a budget. Look around your house or garage and repurpose a ladder or other items. If you want to learn more, read this post about creative vertical gardening ideas.

9. Use Natural Pest Control:

When I started gardening, I thought I needed expensive organic pest control amendments and sprays, such as neem oil. But it turns out that using natural methods like companion planting and adding herbs and flowers to your garden to help control pests is more effective and eliminates the need for expensive products. This will save you money and be better for your garden. Learn more about successful companion planting principles in this blog post.

10. Choose High-Yield Crops When Budget Gardening:

Starting a garden on a budget doesn’t mean you can’t grow delicious food. Grow vegetables that produce a lot of food, like tomatoes, zucchini, and beans. You’ll get large harvests with less expense. Choose crops you enjoy eating so there is less waste. 

11. Find Ways to Use Your harvests

Try growing loofahs and learn how to make your own scrubbers!

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You’ll never need to buy a sponge again—plus, they’re completely sustainable. I love using my loofah sponges for washing dishes or in the shower!

Save on gift-giving by creating thoughtful, homegrown items that friends and family will truly appreciate. Here are some of my favorite ways to use and share my harvest!

• Gifts from the Garden: Homegrown Holiday Ideas
• Holiday Neighbor Gift: Wildflower Seed Packets

Bonus Tip: Learn and Experiment When Starting a Garden on a Budget

The more you learn about gardening, the more you can save. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes.

Remember, gardening doesn’t have to be expensive. A beautiful and productive garden on a budget is possible with creativity and resourcefulness.  Let me know your best money-saving tips in the comments. 

If you are just getting started with gardening, this beginner’s guide is a great place to begin. It pulls together my most helpful resources for new gardeners and walks you through the first steps toward a thriving garden.

Now that you know how to garden on a budget, here are 8 simple tips to help you get your garden started.

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