In this post, I share some of my favorite perennial plants that thrive in the Sonoran Desert and are perfect for supporting pollinators. These long-lasting plants not only add beauty and texture to your garden, but they also play a vital role in creating a balanced and sustainable ecosystem. Whether you’re looking to add color, fragrance, or biodiversity, these perennials will help you build a thriving, pollinator-friendly space that will flourish year after year.

Using Perennials to Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for a Balanced Ecosystem

Perennials are an excellent way to create a sustainable, balanced ecosystem in your garden. They return year after year, providing consistent food and habitat for pollinators like bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. Unlike annual plants that need to be replanted every season, perennials save you time and effort as they establish themselves and continue to grow stronger over the years.

While perennials may have a higher initial cost compared to annuals, their long lifespan makes them a cost-effective option in the long run. These plants require less maintenance, as many are naturally adapted to local climates and soil conditions. Once established, they also need fewer resources like water and fertilizer, making them an eco-friendly choice for gardeners who want to minimize their environmental impact.

By selecting perennials that attract pollinators, you can create a garden that not only flourishes but also supports local wildlife. These plants provide essential nectar, pollen, and shelter, helping to pollinate your crops, control pests, and promote a healthier garden ecosystem overall. Whether you’re growing flowers, herbs, or shrubs, incorporating perennials into your garden is an excellent way to contribute to biodiversity while enjoying a low-maintenance, long-lasting landscape.

Supporting pollinators in the desert takes the right plants and placement. Find out what works in Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden.

Why plant native plants?

When selecting perennial plants for your garden, it’s often best to choose native species. Native plants are naturally adapted to your area’s climate, soil, and rainfall, meaning they thrive with less water, fewer chemicals, and minimal maintenance. These plants are also more resistant to local pests and diseases, making them easier to care for in the long run.

In addition to being resilient, native plants play a crucial role in supporting local wildlife, including pollinators like bees and butterflies, as well as birds and beneficial insects. By planting native species, you’re helping to protect and preserve your local ecosystem, while promoting biodiversity in your garden.

If you’re interested in learning more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide “Desert Gardening: How to Garden in a Hot, Dry Climate“ may be a helpful resource.

Perennial Plants That Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators in the Sonoran Desert

Here are a few of my favorite perennial plants that are well-suited for the Sonoran Desert and will help attract pollinators to your garden:

• Angelita Daisy
• Baja Fairyduster
• Blackfoot Daisy
• Blanketflower
• Chocolate Flower
• Coral Vine – Learn how to grow this drought-tolerant beauty in my Growing Guide for Coral VIne.
• Creosote
• Damianita Bush
• Desert Lavender
• Desert Marigold
• Desert Milkweed
• Fairy Duster
• Firecracker Penstemon
• Mt. Lemmon Marigold
• Globe Mallow
• Lantana
• Mealy Cup Sage
• Mexican Bush Sage
• Morning Glory
• Parry’s Penstemon
• Passion Vine
• Rock Penstemon
• Rock Verbena
• Rosemary – Get growing tips for this desert perennial in my Rosemary Growing Guide.
• Salvia
• Sandpaper Verbena
• Shrubby Germander
• Spanish Lavender – Get tips on growing this desert perennial in my Lavender Growing Guide.
• Skyflower
• Tangerine Crossvine
• Turpentine Bush
• Woolly Butterfly Bush
• Yellow Bells

These perennials are great choices for gardeners in the low desert of Arizona or other Sonoran desert areas. They provide year-round color and texture while supporting pollinators and enhancing your garden’s biodiversity.

Download printable “Sonoran Desert Perennials for Pollinators” at the top of the post.

Not sure what to plant or how to grow it? The Ultimate Plant Index covers everything from rosemary and lavender to ranunculus—organized A–Z for easy browsing. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

References and Further Reading

1. “Native Plants for Pollinators & Beneficial Insects: Southwest – Sonoran Desert“
2. Desert Museum Plant List
3. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

If this post about the perennials for pollinators in your desert garden was helpful, please share it.

The post Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

The good news is your garden—no matter how big or small—can become a vital sanctuary for these essential creatures.

Creating an insectary border is a simple and effective way to start supporting pollinators, whether you’re gardening in a spacious yard or using containers in limited spaces.

Why Plant for Pollinators?

Pollinators are essential for the reproduction of most flowering plants and more than a third of our food supply. Creating spaces that support them:

• Enhances local biodiversity.
• Stabilizes pollinator populations.
• Improves the health and productivity of your garden.
  

What is an Insectary Border?

An insectary border is a dedicated planting area designed specifically to attract and sustain beneficial insects and pollinators. These insects naturally help manage pests, reducing your reliance on chemical pesticides.

Curious about how beneficial insects manage pests naturally? Learn more in my article, “Using Beneficial Insects as Natural Pest Control“.

How to Create Your Insectary Garden

1. Select the Right Location

Choose an area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily and has good drainage. In hot desert climates, a spot with afternoon shade can help protect blooms and extend flowering, especially during the hottest months. Ideally, place your insectary border near your vegetable garden to get the maximum benefits from pollinators and pest control. Avoid windy areas and locations with bright nighttime lights, which can discourage pollinator activity.

If garden space is limited, containers are a practical alternative—just group several together in a sunny, protected spot you can easily observe and enjoy.

2. Choose Pollinator-Friendly Plants

Select a mix of annual and perennial plants with overlapping bloom times to ensure pollinators have continuous food sources throughout the growing season. Native plants are ideal because local pollinators are adapted to them.

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Planting for Pollinator Options for Arizona Gardens:

Perennials: Angelita Daisy, Baja Fairyduster, Blackfoot Daisy, Blanketflower, Chocolate Flower, Coral Vine, Creosote, Damianita Bush, Desert Lavender, Desert Marigold, Desert Milkweed, Fairy Duster, Firecracker Penstemon Mt. Lemmon Marigold, Globe Mallow, Lantana, Mealy Cup Sage, Mexican Bush Sage, Morning Glory, Parry’s Penstemon, Passion Vine, Rock Penstemon, Rock Verbena, Rosemary, Salvia, Sandpaper Verbena Shrubby Germander, Spanish Lavender, Skyflower, Tangerine Crossvine, Turpentine Bush, Woolly Butterfly Bush, Yellow Bells

Annuals: Alyssum, Aster, Anise, Bee Balm, Buckwheat, Chamomile, Clover, Coneflower, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Daisy (Regular and Shasta), Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Goldenrod, Lovage, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Ratibida, Rudbeckia, Sunflowers, Verbena, and Yarrow

Looking to add native wildflowers to your pollinator planting? Arroyo Lupine is a great spring bloomer that supports bees, butterflies, and soil health.

Hyssop is a must-have for pollinator gardens—it provides nectar for bees and butterflies while adding beauty and fragrance. Learn how to grow hyssop and why it belongs in every insectary border.

For more details about plants that thrive in pollinator gardens, check out my post, “Plants that Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators”.

3. Group Plants Together in Your Insectary Border

Pollinators prefer clustered plantings, which make nectar and pollen collection easier. Plant in groups if possible rather than scattering single plants.

4. Diversify Flower Shapes and Colors

Different pollinators are attracted to different flower shapes and colors:

• Tubular flowers (penstemon, salvia) attract hummingbirds.
• Flat and open flowers (daisies, sunflowers) attract butterflies and bees.

Grouping plants strategically can improve pollinator attraction and plant health. Discover more in my post, “5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting“.

5. Provide Essential Water and Shelter

Pollinators need more than just food:

• Water: Include a shallow dish filled with water and pebbles or sticks for safe drinking spots.
• Shelter: Leave areas of bare soil for ground-nesting bees, and provide brush piles, nesting boxes, or piles of hollow stems for other beneficial insects.

Want to offer even more nesting options for beneficial insects? Follow my step-by-step guide to using insect hotels to learn how to set one up in your garden.

6. Avoid Chemicals and Go Organic

Avoid pesticides that harm pollinators. Instead, use organic practices such as:

• Allowing time for beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings to manage infestations rather than spraying off with water and disrupting the process.
• Hand-picking and daily monitoring to manage troublesome pests, such as squash bugs and potato beetles. Need effective alternatives to pesticides? Explore safe and sustainable solutions in “Organic Pest Control That Really Works“.

Interested in transitioning to organic gardening methods? My guide, “How to Be an Organic Gardener“, provides practical tips to help you get started.

7. Add Butterfly-Friendly Plants for Pollinators

Butterflies need specific host plants to lay eggs and feed caterpillars:

• Milkweed (essential for monarchs)
• Parsley, dill, fennel (ideal for swallowtails)

Embrace a Natural Look in Your Insectary Garden

Pollinator gardens don’t need to be perfectly manicured—let leaves and twigs accumulate as nesting material. A thriving pollinator garden is a vibrant and diverse ecosystem.

Start Small and Expand Gradually

Even creating a small insectary border or adding a few containers can make a difference. As your garden grows, consider expanding your insectary garden and increasing plant diversity.

Have you created an insectary border or pollinator-friendly garden? Share your favorite plants or tips in the comments below.

Sources:

• Honey Bees and Waterwise Gardens – EMWD Demonstration Garden
• Month-By-Month Gardening in the Deserts of Arizona: What to Do Each Month to Have a Beautiful Garden All Year by Mary Irish (2008)

The post Planting for Pollinators: Create an Insectary Garden Anywhere appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Quickly Find Warm-Season Companion Plants:

• Lavender
• Sage
• Basil
• Marigold
• Thyme
• Rosemary
• Gaillardia
• Amaranth
• Sesame
• Salvia
• The Benefits of Companion Planting
• Summary Table: Warm-Season Companion Plants
• FAQ About Companion Planting

Lavender

Growing Information: Lavender is a drought-tolerant perennial that thrives in full sun and well-drained soil. I plant lavender in native soil (not raised beds) and don’t overwater.

Varieties to try: Fernleaf, Goodwin Creek Grey, Spanish, and French lavender perform well in the low desert.

Attracts: Lavender’s sweet fragrance and nectar-rich flowers draw in bees and butterflies.

Learn More: How to Grow Lavender

Sage

Growing Information: Sage is a hardy, heat-tolerant herb that tastes as good as it looks. Its silver-green leaves and occasional purple flowers add texture to your garden, and it thrives in hot, dry conditions. Sage grows well in the corner of a raised bed or native soil.

Attracts: The purple blooms of sage are loved by bees and hummingbirds.

Learn More: How to Grow Sage

Basil

Growing Information: Basil is a summer favorite that pairs perfectly with vegetables like tomatoes. It enhances flavor, and its aromatic leaves also help mask the scents that attract pests. Plant a wide variety of basil types and allow some to flower.

Attracts: Basil’s small white or purple flowers attract bees, ensuring a steady pollinator presence during the warm season.

Seed Source: Basil Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Basil

Marigold

Growing Information: Marigolds are vibrant annuals known for their pest-repellent properties. French marigolds release compounds through their roots that repel nematodes and have a strong scent that keeps aphids, whiteflies, and mosquitoes at bay.

Attracts: These cheerful flowers lure in beneficial insects, such as ladybugs (learn why NOT to buy ladybugs here) and hoverflies, which help keep pest populations in check.

Seed Source: Marigold Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Marigolds

Thyme

Growing Information: Thyme is a versatile, low-growing herb. It requires minimal water and thrives in full sun, making it ideal for hot climates.

Attracts: Thyme’s delicate blooms attract bees and other pollinators, supporting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Learn More: How to Grow Thyme

Rosemary

Growing Information: Rosemary is a hardy, aromatic shrub that grows best in dry, sunny environments. Its needle-like leaves and occasional blue or purple flowers make it a striking and useful addition to any garden. I plant lavender in native soil (not raised beds) and don’t overwater.

Attracts: Rosemary draws in bees and other pollinators with its fragrant blooms, while its strong aroma may help deter certain pests.

Learn More: How to Grow Rosemary

Gaillardia (Blanket Flower)

Growing Information: Gaillardia is a heat-loving perennial known for its long-lasting, bright red and yellow blooms. It’s exceptionally drought-tolerant.

Attracts: Its vibrant flowers attract bees and butterflies, boosting pollination and enhancing the overall biodiversity of your garden.

Seed Source: Gaillardia Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Gaillardia

Amaranth

Growing Information: Amaranth is a striking annual with colorful foliage and delicate seed heads. It thrives in high temperatures.

Attracts: Amaranth’s unique blooms are a favorite among bees and other pollinators, while birds often enjoy its seeds, adding an extra layer of natural pest control.

Seed Source: Amaranth Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Amaranth

Sesame

Growing Information: Sesame is a lesser-known, heat-tolerant crop that offers a unique look with its delicate, tubular flowers. It’s valued for its edible seeds and its ability to adapt to arid conditions.

Attracts: The small, attractive sesame flowers invite bees and other beneficial insects.

Seed Source: Sesame Seeds
Learn More: How to Grow Sesame

Salvia

Growing Information: Salvia has many varieties, but warm-season salvias are particularly noted for their drought tolerance and vibrant flower spikes. They’re perfect for adding vertical interest to your garden.

Attracts: Salvia’s tubular blooms are highly attractive to hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies, making it a magnet for pollinators and beneficial insects.

Seed Source: Salvia Seeds

The Benefits of Companion Planting

Companion planting is a time-tested strategy that creates a balanced ecosystem in your garden. By growing these warm-season plants together, you not only maximize space but also create a natural environment that:

• Attracts Pollinators: Continuous blooms mean that bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds have a reliable source of nectar throughout the season. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden.
• Enhances Natural Pest Control: Many of these companions repel pests or attract predators (like ladybugs, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps) that keep harmful insects at bay.
• Boosts Soil Health: A diverse planting palette encourages a robust soil ecosystem, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Consider adding papalo to your list of warm-season companion herbs—it’s a flavorful, cilantro-like plant that also helps attract pollinators once it begins to flower.

Looking for a creative way to combine companion planting with small-space gardening? Learn how to grow a Three Sisters Garden in grow bags using corn (or alternatives), beans, and squash for a thriving mini-ecosystem. See how I adapted this method to raised beds in my Three Sisters garden.

If you’re planning your garden layout, don’t miss this guide on cucumber companion plants—you’ll find tips on pairing cucumbers with flowers, herbs, and vegetables to improve growth and reduce pests.

Summary Table: Warm-Season Companion Plants

Use the table below as a quick reference for the pollinators they attract, and their primary companion benefits:

FAQ About Companion Planting

Q1: What is companion planting and why is it beneficial?
A: Companion planting involves growing different plants together to naturally improve pollination, deter pests, and enhance soil health. It creates a balanced ecosystem that reduces the need for chemical interventions.

Q2: Can these warm-season plants thrive in extreme heat?
A: Yes, the plants listed (such as Lavender, Sage, and Gaillardia) are specifically chosen for their heat and drought tolerance, making them ideal for hot climates like Arizona.

Q3: How do I know which beneficial insects are attracted to each plant?
A: Each plant’s growing guide details the primary pollinators and beneficial insects it attracts. For example, Lavender and Rosemary are excellent for attracting bees, while Salvia draws hummingbirds and butterflies.

Q4: Are there any special soil or watering considerations for these plants?
A: Most of these plants prefer well-drained soil and full sun. Utilizing drip irrigation and organic mulch can help maintain consistent moisture levels and reduce water evaporation.

Q5: Where can I find more detailed growing information for each plant?
A: You can click on the growing guide links provided in each plant’s section.

If you have any additional questions, feel free to leave a comment!

In Conclusion

Embracing warm-season companion plants like Lavender, Sage, Basil, Marigold, Thyme, Rosemary, Gaillardia, Amaranth, Sesame, and Salvia can transform your yard into a vibrant, self-sustaining ecosystem. With careful planning and a little attention to each plant’s needs, you can enjoy a productive garden and a haven for beneficial insects and pollinators.

The post Best Companion Plants for Warm-Season Gardens appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Index:

1. Examine Existing Beds
2. Evaluate the Soil
   • Why Not Till?
3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost
4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings
5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

1. Examine Existing Beds

Begin by doing a quick visual assessment of your garden beds:

• Raised Bed Condition
  • Do the sides need any repairs?
  • Are there gaps or signs of rotting wood or weakened materials?
• Irrigation Check
  • Is your watering system functioning correctly?
  • Are there any leaks, clogged emitters, or areas not receiving adequate moisture?
  • Is the coverage sufficient for all plants?

If you need to update or replace your beds, I highly recommend the metal raised beds and watering grids from Garden in Min

utes. I’ve used them in my own garden for years, and they’ve been incredibly durable and easy to maintain. Plus, the watering grids ensure even moisture for your plants. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100, or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

2. Evaluate the Soil

Once your beds are structurally sound, shift focus to the soil itself:

• Soil Level & Texture
  • Has the soil level dropped significantly? Consider whether you need to top off with fresh raised bed mix or if a layer of compost would suffice.
  • Is the soil still loose and friable? If it feels compacted or you notice a drastic change in texture, supplementing with components like coconut coir, vermiculite, or a raised bed mix that includes those may be necessary. I use the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm. Learn more about this soil mixture here.

• Weeds, Diseases & Pest History
  • Were there major weed issues, diseases, or pest infestations last season? If so, remove any remaining plant debris or weeds to prevent carry-over problems. If Bermuda grass is an issue, read this guide.

Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

• Soil Testing
  • If your garden is growing well, this step may not be necessary. But if plants have struggled or not grown well a soil test is a good way to see what is going on.
  • Soil pH & Nutrient Levels: A soil test is the best way to know precisely what amendments your garden needs. You’ll learn about nutrient deficiencies (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients) and whether pH adjustments are necessary.
  • Use a reliable, easy-to-read soil test kit or send samples to a local extension office for professional analysis. This is the soil test kit I use.
  • Follow test recommendations to address any imbalances before you plant. Learn more about how to test your soil in this guide.

Tip: Don’t till your soil. Tilling disturbs the good things that are happening in your soil!

Why Not Till?

• Preserves Soil Structure
  Tilling can break apart soil aggregates and damage fragile networks of fungi and microorganisms. Undisturbed soil holds water and nutrients more effectively.
• Protects Beneficial Organisms
  Earthworms, microbes, and other helpful creatures thrive when left undisturbed. These organisms improve soil fertility by breaking down organic matter and making nutrients available to plants.
• Reduces Weed Pressure
  Tilling can expose dormant weed seeds to sunlight, causing them to germinate. Leaving the soil undisturbed helps keep those seeds buried and less likely to sprout.
• Prevents Erosion
  Soil with a stable, undisturbed structure is less prone to wind and water erosion, helping maintain soil depth and quality over time.

By minimizing disturbance and simply layering organic matter (like compost) on top, you enhance your soil’s natural processes—resulting in healthier, more resilient garden beds.

3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost

One of the most essential steps in amending soil is adding compost. Compost is a cornerstone amendment for any garden.

• Benefits of Compost
  • Improves Soil Structure: Loosens heavy clay and helps sandy soils hold moisture.
  • Adds Nutrients: Contains essential plant nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, plus beneficial micronutrients.
  • Boosts Beneficial Organisms: Feeds microbes and earthworms that help make nutrients more available to plants.
  • Reduces Diseases & Pests: Compost can help suppress some plant diseases and pests.
  • Enhances Moisture Retention: Helps the soil hold water, reducing the need for frequent watering.
• How to Add Compost
  • Layer, Don’t Till: Spread at least one inch (2.54 cm) of compost on top of your soil. Earthworms and microbes will integrate it naturally.
  • Dealing with Mulch: If you have a thick mulch layer, pull it back, add compost, and then replace or refresh the mulch as needed.
• Which Compost to Use
  • Homemade: Homemade compost is best if you can make it. Learn how to make compost in this guide.
  • Locally Sourced: A local, trusted compost supplier is your next-best option.
  • Store-Bought: If using bagged compost, buy multiple brands for a varied nutrient profile.

4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings

Worm castings are a powerful, natural soil amendment:

• Why Use Worm Castings?
  • Naturally high in beneficial microbes and nutrients.
  • Gentle, slow release of fertility that won’t burn plants if applied correctly.
• How Much to Add
  • For established beds, apply 4 cups per 4×8 bed.
  • In new beds, aim for around 5% worm castings (11 gallons per 4×8 bed).
  • Layer them on top of the soil and lightly water them in.
• In-Bed Vermicomposting
  • Add an in-bed vermicomposting bin for an ongoing supply of worm castings directly in your raised bed. It’s a low-maintenance way of amending soil throughout the growing season. Learn how to add vermicomposting bins to your garden here.

To learn more about the benefits of worm castings, read this guide by Zach Brooks of Arizona Worm Farm.

Tip: Apply 4 cups fresh worm castings to each 4×8 raised bed each season.

5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

Although I add compost and worm castings each season, I don’t always add other amendments. You can finalize your plan for amending soil based on your soil test results. Consider these common soil amendments:

1. Biochar (link to purchase)
   • Improves soil texture and water retention.
   • It acts like a sponge, holding nutrients until plants need them.
   • It can raise pH, so be mindful if your soil is already alkaline.
2. Azomite (Rock Dust) (link to purchase)
   • Rich in minerals and trace elements that garden soil may lack.
   • Useful for amending soil that has been heavily used or depleted.
3. Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (link to purchase)
   • Beneficial for clay or compacted soils.
   • Helps loosen particles and improve drainage.
4. Blood Meal (link to purchase)
   • Quick source of nitrogen.
   • Follow label instructions to avoid over-fertilization.
5. Bone Meal (link to purchase)
   • Adds phosphorus for strong root growth and flower/fruit production.
   • Also provides calcium and some nitrogen.
6. Kelp Meal/Seaweed Extract (link to purchase)
   • Offers micronutrients, natural growth hormones, and stress resistance.
   • Great for amending soil to support seed germination and root development.
7. Green Sand or Langbeinite (link to purchase)
   • Green sand supplies potassium and micronutrients.
   • Langbeinite delivers potassium, magnesium, and sulfur—excellent if your test indicates shortages.

Even the best mix will need refreshing over time. My guide on how to fill a raised bed explains what to add initially and how to keep improving soil season after season.

If you’re looking for tools, soil amendments, seed-starting gear, or even supplies for keeping chickens, check out my carefully curated gardening supplies and tools page. It includes everything I rely on in the garden.

Tip: Always adhere to recommended application rates when amending soil, as over-amending can cause nutrient imbalances.

Final Thoughts

Taking the time at the beginning of each season to prepare garden soil before planting pays off by reducing problems later on and boosting plant performance. By layering amendments like compost and worm castings, adding specific nutrients based on a soil test, and avoiding deep tilling, you’ll keep your soil structure healthy and full of beneficial organisms.

Healthy soil is a living ecosystem. With consistent care and careful amending of soil, your garden will become more productive and resilient each season—setting the stage for vigorous plants, fewer pest problems, and delicious, abundant harvests.

If you are gardening in the low desert or another hot, dry climate, the Desert Gardening page is the best place to start. It brings together all my seasonal planting guides, tips for creating shade and managing heatwaves, and advice for protecting plants from frost. Having everything in one place makes it easy to find exactly what you need for each season.

If this post about amending your soil and preparing your garden before planting was helpful, please share it.

The post Amending Soil: Preparing Your Garden Before Planting appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

What We Will Cover:

• Why would I want an insect hotel in my garden?
• Which kind of insect hotel is best?
• When is the best time to install an insect hotel in my garden?
• Where is the best place to put an insect hotel?
• What do I need to do once I’ve installed my insect hotel? Is there any maintenance? 
• What else can I do to attract beneficial insects and other forms of wildlife to my garden?

1. Why would I want an insect hotel in my garden?

Insect hotels typically attract solitary bees, including mason bees, leaf-cutter bees, lacewings, and more.

• Bees are an important part of any garden, as they pollinate the fruits, herbs, flowers, and vegetables we grow there.
• Solitary bees are harmless and not aggressive. They are often called “super pollinators” as they are very effective at pollination.
• Lacewings are best known for feasting on aphids but also help control mites, caterpillars, and whiteflies.

Learn more about how to attract beneficial insects to your garden in this guide.

2. Which kind of insect hotel is best?

• Look for insect hotels made from natural, untreated wood free from varnish, paint, and wood protectant. I use this one from Amazon.
• They should have a variety of hole sizes (small holes are best) to attract different species. 
• Several small holes are preferable to one large hotel. Larger hotels are more vulnerable to parasitic wasps and bees, according to J. Scott MacIvor. 
• They should have a sturdy back and a roof to protect them from rain.

3. When is the best time to install an insect hotel in my garden?

Put insect hotels in place in the early spring so the insects can nest after hibernation. Put them in place before temperatures rise above about 55°F (13°C) according to J.C.’s Wildlife.

4. Where is the best place to put an insect hotel?

• Insect hotels should face east or southeast to attract solitary bees. Full morning sun is best. 
• Place them 3-5 feet (1-1.5 meters) above ground.
• The area in front should be free of plants and vegetation that would obscure the tunnel entrances. 
• Make sure it is mounted properly and remains stationary. It should not shake or move in windy conditions. 

5. What do I need to do once I’ve installed my insect hotel? Is there any maintenance? 

Inspect the hotels at the end of each summer for mold. You may also want to remove and replace tubes. 

Consider replacing the nesting blocks every couple of years to avoid mite and parasite buildup according to Marc Carlton.

6. What else can I do to attract beneficial insects and other forms of wildlife to my garden?

• Plant a variety of flowering herbs and flowers like alyssum and calendula that provide nectar and pollen to attract pollinators.
• Don’t use pesticides.
• Create space for other garden beneficials like toads, bats, and owls.
• Learn how to attract ladybugs to your garden in this guide.
• Cleaning up decaying plant matter can help manage roly poly infestations. Learn more about how to get rid of pill bugs in this guide.
• Support pollinators with the right plants and placement. Find out what works in Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden.

Want to learn more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden? Read Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden for tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

If you enjoyed this article, please share it.

The post How to Use Insect Hotels: Common Questions appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Companion planting is a proven way to boost garden success. If you’re new to the concept or looking for general tips, check out my 5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting to get started.

If you’re planning your garden layout, don’t miss this guide on cucumber companion plants—you’ll find tips on pairing cucumbers with flowers, herbs, and vegetables to improve growth and reduce pests.

1. Calendula

Tips for Growing: Calendula is a hardy annual that thrives in cooler weather. Sow seeds directly into the garden about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. It prefers full sun but can tolerate some shade.

Seed Source: Calendula Seeds
Learn More: Growing Calendula

2. Nasturtium

Tips for Growing: Nasturtiums are easy to grow and are great for the edges of garden beds or corners. Sow seeds directly into the soil, about ½ inch (1.2 cm) deep. Nasturtiums prefer full sun and well-drained soil. They attract beneficial insects like bees and can repel pests such as aphids.

Gardening with kids? Nasturtiums are a good choice. The seeds are easy to plant, and the leaves and flowers are edible. Get more tips for gardening with kids in this article.

Seed Source: Nasturtium Seeds
Learn More: Growing Nasturtium

3. Alyssum

Tips for Growing: Alyssum is a low-growing plant that produces a carpet of tiny, fragrant flowers. Sow seeds directly on the soil surface and press them in lightly. Alyssum is excellent for attracting pollinators and beneficial insects that help keep pests at bay.

Seed Source: Alyssum Seeds
Learn More: Growing Alyssum

4. Dill

Tips for Growing: Dill is a versatile herb that attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Dill prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It’s also great for companion planting with cabbage family crops. Dill is also an excellent companion plant for cucumbers.

Seed Source: Dill Seeds
Learn More: Growing Dill

5. Cilantro

Tips for Growing: Cilantro is a cool-season herb that does well when sown directly into the garden—plant seeds about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Bolted cilantro attracts beneficial insects and can help deter aphids.

Seed Source: Cilantro Seeds
Learn More: Growing Cilantro

Easy-to-Grow Cool-Season Companion Plants

6. Bachelor Buttons (Cornflower)

Tips for Growing: Bachelor buttons are easy to grow and produce beautiful, colorful flowers. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. They prefer full sun and well-drained soil. For more cool-season flowers to plant from seed, see this guide.

Seed Source: Bachelor Button Seeds
Learn More: Growing Bachelor Buttons

7. Borage

Tips for Growing: Borage can grow large, so it’s best planted at the end of a bed. Sow seeds directly into the soil about ½ inches (1.2 cm) deep. Borage attracts bees and other pollinators, and its leaves can be used as mulch or in compost.

Seed Source: Borage Seeds
Learn More: Growing Borage

8. Chamomile

Tips for Growing: Chamomile is a gentle herb that’s easy to grow from seed. Sow seeds on the soil surface and press them in lightly. Chamomile prefers full sun to partial shade.

Seed Source: Chamomile Seeds
Learn More: Growing Chamomile

9. Parsley

Tips for Growing: Parsley is a biennial herb that grows well in cool weather. Sow seeds about ¼ inch (6mm) deep in rich, well-drained soil. Bolted parsley attracts beneficial insects. In this guide, discover the benefits of insect hotels and learn how to effectively use them in your garden to attract beneficial bees and lacewings.

Seed Source: Parsley Seeds
Learn More: Growing Parsley

10. Violet

Tips for Growing: Violets are charming little flowers that thrive in cool weather. Sow seeds directly into the garden about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep. Violets prefer partial shade and are great for attracting pollinators while adding color to your garden. For more cool-season flowers that love mild winters, see this guide.

Seed Source: Violet Seeds
Learn More: Growing Violets

Incorporating cool-season companion plants into your garden beds is an easy way to boost biodiversity, attract beneficial insects, and add beauty to your space. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden. These ten cool-season companions are easy to grow from seed and will help your garden thrive. Plant a few seeds in the empty spots of your beds and enjoy the benefits they bring all season long.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

If you want more resources on warm-season companion planting read this guide.

Looking for a creative way to combine companion planting with small-space gardening? Learn how to grow a 3 Sisters Garden in grow bags using corn (or alternatives), beans, and squash for a thriving mini-ecosystem.

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Article Outline:

1. What Are Spider Mites?
2. Conditions That Favor Spider Mites
3. Identifying Spider Mite Damage
4. Preventing Spider Mites
5. Beneficial Insects That Help Control Spider Mites
6. Steps to Treat Spider Mites Organically
7. When to Treat Spider Mites and When to Remove Plants
8. Spider Mite Prevention & Organic Control Conclusion

What Are Spider Mites?

You notice something is off about your bean plants. You may see stippling on the tops of the leaves and tiny moving dots on the undersides of the leaves. There may also be what looks like webbing surrounding some of the leaves. Congratulations – you’ve just met the infamous spider mite!

Spider mites are tiny arachnids related to spiders and ticks. They are small–usually 1/20 of an inch (1mm long), and look like tiny moving dots to the naked eye. Spider mites belong to the Tetranychus genus. These mites are known for their silk webbing on infested leaves, hence the name “spider mites.” The webbing gives mites and their offspring protection from changes in the environment and their natural enemies.

These pests live in colonies on the undersides of leaves. The largest female spider mites can be identified by their oval bodies and two dark blotches on each side. They reproduce rapidly–within 1-3 weeks—especially in favorable conditions, leading to large infestations quickly. One female spider mite can lay hundreds of eggs. Unfortunately, in mild climates, they are active year-round and do not die off. 

Conditions That Favor Spider Mites

Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions, making them particularly problematic during summer. Here are some areas and conditions they prefer:

• Preferred Crops: Beans, cucumbers, lettuce, melons, peas, tomatoes, rosemary. Also common on landscape plants like cypress trees.
• Hot Weather: Spider mites reproduce quickly in high temperatures. A single generation can be completed in less than a week.
• Dusty Environments: Spider mites are often found near dusty roadways or garden margins. Dusty conditions create an ideal habitat for these pests.
• Water Stress: Plants under water stress are highly susceptible to spider mite infestations. To reduce the risk, ensure your plants are adequately watered.

Identifying Spider Mite Damage

Spider mites cause significant damage by sucking cell contents from leaves. Here’s how to identify their presence:

• Stippling: White or yellow dots or stippling on leaves are early signs of spider mite feeding.
• Color Changes: Leaves may turn yellowish, reddish, or bronze as feeding continues.
• Webbing: Heavy infestations result in large amounts of webbing covering leaves, twigs, and fruit.
• Dying Plants: Large infestations often kill the host plant. 

High populations of spider mites can weaken plants, leading to leaf drop and reduced yields. For ornamentals, spider mites primarily cause aesthetic damage but can kill annual plants if left unchecked.

Preventing Spider Mites

Effective prevention strategies can save your garden from a spider mite invasion. Here are some tips:

• Regular Monitoring: Check plants regularly, especially during hot, dry periods. If necessary, use a magnifying glass.
• Keep It Clean: Reduce dust in your garden using mulch and regular watering.
• Watering: Proper watering reduces plant stress and makes them less attractive to spider mites. Spray plants with water to dislodge mites and clean leaves.
• Humidity: Higher humidity levels can deter spider mites, especially in greenhouses or indoors. Spray off plants with water occasionally to increase the air’s moisture level.

Read this blog post for more tips for preventing pests in the garden.

Beneficial Insects That Help Control Spider Mites

Nature provides some of the best pest control agents. Certain beneficial insects can help manage spider mite populations:

• Big-eyed bugs, damsel bugs, minute pirate bugs, predatory mites, predatory thrips, and spiders are natural predators of spider mites.
• Lacewings: These insects and their larvae feed on spider mites.
• Ladybugs: Both adult ladybugs and their larvae consume spider mites.

Encouraging these beneficial insects in your garden can significantly reduce spider mite populations without resorting to chemical treatments. Large spider mite populations are more common when pesticides are frequently applied. Pesticides often kill off the many natural predators, allowing them to reproduce unchecked. 

Attracting beneficial insects can reduce harmful pests naturally. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

You may choose to introduce beneficial insects into your garden. If you do this, consider a beneficial insect subscription service from Heirloom Roses, which gets its insects from trusted insectories. These introduced insects can help bolster populations throughout the season. Do not purchase ladybugs from local nurseries. Learn why in this blog post.

Steps to Treat Spider Mites Organically

If you find spider mites in your garden, take the following steps. Be conservative in your approach and only proceed to the next more aggressive step if needed.

1. Identify and Isolate: Confirm the presence of spider mites, isolate affected plants if possible, and remove the worst-affected leaves. 
2. Water Spray: Use a knockdown water spray to dislodge mites from plants. Focus on the undersides of the leaves.
3. Insecticidal Soap and Horticultural Oil Treatment: Use treatments sparingly. To protect beneficial insects, target only affected areas.

• Add 1 Tablespoon (19 ml) of Safer Insect Killing Soap and 1 Tablespoon (19 ml) of Monterey Horticultural Oil to a 32-oz (946-ml) spray bottle filled with water.
• Spray affected areas in the morning or evening. Never spray in the middle of the day. Use a pump sprayer and apply a fine mist to all sides of the plant—there is no need to drench it.
• If temperatures are above 90°F (32°C), rinse with water afterward to avoid burning the leaves.
• Repeat application after several days to eliminate newly hatched eggs. If needed, repeat at weekly or bi-weekly intervals up to three times.
• You may want to rinse leaves off after application during hot weather to avoid leaf burn.

When to Treat Spider Mites and When to Remove Plants

Deciding whether to treat or remove infested plants depends on the severity of the infestation and the plant’s condition. Here are some guidelines:

Treat: Regular water sprays and insecticidal treatments often manage early infestations. Strong, healthy plants with minor damage are good candidates for treatment.

Remove: Severely infested plants with significant leaf damage and webbing may be beyond saving. Removing heavily infested plants can prevent the spread to other healthy plants.

Spider Mite Prevention & Organic Control Conclusion

Spider mites can be a persistent pest, but you can protect your home garden with careful monitoring and proactive measures. Regular inspections, proper watering, and encouraging beneficial insects are vital to preventing and managing spider mite infestations.

Targeted treatments using insecticidal soap and horticultural oil can be effective in challenging cases. Before deciding to treat, weigh the severity of the infestation and the plant’s overall health.

Further Reading:

• Organic Pest Control That Really Works
• Garden Hacks: 9 Simple Pest Control Tips
• Squash Bug Prevention and Organic Control

Sources:

• Colorado State Extension Fact Sheet Spider Mites 5.507, by W.S. Cranshaw and D.C. Sclar
• Pest Notes: Spider Mites UC ANR Publication 7405, L. D. Godfrey, Entomology, UC Davis, Produced by UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program University of California, Davis, CA 95616
• The Vegetable Garden Pest Handbook, by Susan Mulvihill

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Article Outline:

1. Identifying Squash Bugs in the Garden
2. How Do Squash Bugs Damage Plants?
3. Organic Methods to Control and Eliminate Squash Bugs
4. Attract Natural Predators of Squash Bugs
5. Practice Companion Planting for Squash Bug Prevention and Organic Control
6. Hand-pick all Stages of Squash Bugs Daily
7. How to Prevent Future Infestations of Squash Bugs

Identifying Squash Bugs in the Garden

Before you can tackle squash bugs, it’s essential to know what you’re up against. Here’s what to look for:

• Adults are about half an inch (1.2cm) long, winged, with a grayish-brown body and flat back covered in fine dark hairs. As a defense, they give off an unpleasant odor. 
• Nymphs (young squash bugs) are smaller, wingless, greenish-gray, and similar in shape to adults. They often cluster together.
• Egg clusters are oval-shaped and copper-colored and usually found on the undersides of leaves. 

How Do Squash Bugs Damage Plants?

Adults and nymphs use their piercing mouth parts to suck plant juices from cucurbit crops, which include summer squash, winter squash, cucumbers, gourds, and melons. Severely affected plants’ leaves and shoots turn black, die back, and fail to produce fruit.  

Organic Methods to Control and Eliminate Squash Bugs

Unfortunately, squash bugs are worthy opponents and usually require multiple methods to control them. If you do nothing, squash bugs multiply rapidly and are difficult to eradicate. Combining the following practices can be effective for squash bug prevention and organic control.

Attract Natural Predators of Squash Bugs

The tachinid fly is a natural predator of squash bugs and can be helpful in squash bug prevention and organic control. Plant a wide variety of nectar and food options to encourage tachinid flies to reside in your garden. Good plant choices to attract tachinid flies include rudbeckia, chamomile, cilantro, cosmos, dill, feverfew, borage, alyssum, and oregano.¹ (Click on the plant name to read articles with planting information for each crop.)

This article explains more about how to attract beneficial insects to your garden.

Unfortunately, unlike other pests, squash bugs are not easily controlled by beneficial insects alone. Once spotted in the garden, their control requires some work on our part. 

Practice Companion Planting for Squash Bug Prevention and Organic Control

Attracting beneficial insects can make companion planting even more effective and reduce harmful pests. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Plant nasturtiums among your squash plants to help with squash bug prevention and organic control. An Iowa State University study found that planting nasturtiums among summer squash significantly decreased their numbers.² Learn how to grow nasturtiums in this blog post.

Blue Hubbard squash is especially appealing to squash bugs. Use this fact to your advantage and plant it as a trap crop.

To do this effectively, you must plant blue Hubbard squash three or four weeks before your desired varieties. Plant blue Hubbard several feet (1-2 m) away from other varieties on the outskirts of your vegetable garden.³ Click here for blue Hubbard squash seeds. Learn more about how to grow winter squash in this blog post.

Hand-pick all Stages of Squash Bugs Daily

While it may not be the most glamorous method, hand-picking is very effective. Early detection is crucial. Check your plants daily for all stages of squash bugs; if spotted, keep a bucket of soapy water near your plant. Check the plants often and dispose of the eggs, bugs, and nymphs in the soapy water. They are a little slower in the morning–that’s when I like to do my daily check. 

Use Traps

Trapping can be an effective organic control method for squash bugs. To do this, lay out a wooden board in your garden. Squash bugs will congregate underneath them overnight. In the morning, collect and dispose of the squash bugs.

Remove Plants if Numbers Climb

If your infestation is out of control, remove and destroy affected plants to prevent the bugs from spreading. Do not add to compost. Keep that bucket of soapy water handy, and check the area around the removed plant and under the mulch. I like to use the hose to soak out any remaining stragglers. 

How to Prevent Future Infestations of Squash Bugs

Squash bugs don’t have to spell disaster for your garden. With these organic methods and preventative measures, you can keep your plants healthy and thriving. Do you have any tips or success stories? I’d love to hear them. 

Sources and Further Reading About Organic Control and Prevention of Squash Bugs:

Reference

1. Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, A Natural Approach to Pest Control, Jessica Walliser.
2. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.
3. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

Further Reading

• The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control, A Rodale Organic Gardening Book. Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley, Barbara W. Ellis, and Deborah L. Martin.
• Prevent Garden Pests Organically
• Garden Hacks: 9 Simple Pest Control Tips
• Organic Pest Control That Really Works

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When beneficial insects, predators, and parasitoids choose to live and reproduce in your garden, they are ready to spring into action when pest populations climb. The best part? A diverse landscape is also beautiful. You’ll love it, too!  

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

Supporting pollinators in the desert takes the right plants and placement. Find out what works in Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden.

Using Annual Plants to Attract Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for Natural Pest Control

Incorporating annual plants that attract beneficial insects into your garden is a simple way to help create a balanced ecosystem. Annual plants are relatively easy to grow; many start easily from seed and are relatively inexpensive compared to perennial plants.

Annual Plants for Attracting Beneficial Insects & Pollinators for Natural Pest Control

This annual plant list is a great starting point for selecting plants to create a haven for beneficial insects and pollinators.

• Alyssum – Check out my Growing Guide for Alyssum.
• Coreopsis
• Aster
• Anise
• Bee Balm
• Buckwheat
• Chamomile– Discover how to grow chamomile in my Growing Guide for Chamomile.
• Clover
• Coneflower
• Coreopsis
• Cosmos
• Daisy (Regular and Shasta) – Check out my Growing Guide for Shasta Daisies.
• Dill– Discover how to grow dill in my Growing Guide for Dill.
• Feverfew
• Goldenrod
• Lovage
• Mint – Find growing tips in my Mint Growing Guide.
• Oregano – Learn how to grow oregano in my Oregano Growing Guide.
• Ratibida
• Rudbeckia– Discover how to grow rudbeckia in my Growing Guide for Rudbeckia.
• Sunflowers – Check out my Growing Guide for Sunflowers.
• Verbena – Find growing tips in my Vebena Growing Guide.
• Yarrow – Discover how to grow Yarrow in my Growing Guide for Yarrow.

Download the printable “Annuals for Natural Pest Control” at the top of this post.

Incorporating plants from this annual plant list that attract beneficial insects and pollinators will help promote a beautiful, healthy, diverse ecosystem in your garden.

Are you growing any of these plants, or did I miss one of your favorites? Leave a comment and let me know.

References and Further Reading

1. “Native Plants for Pollinators & Beneficial Insects: Southwest – Sonoran Desert“
2. Desert Museum Plant List
3. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

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Beneficial insects are organic gardeners’ best friends, helping to maintain a healthy balance in the garden ecosystem. This blog post will help you identify these insects, understand their role in pest control, and provide tips for encouraging beneficial insects in your garden.

A Natural Approach to Pest Control: Identify the Bugs in Your Garden

The first step in utilizing beneficial insects and bugs as organic pest control is learning to identify the good bugs from the bad. In gardening, insects are a natural part of the ecosystem. While some can harm your garden, many are beneficial and vital to maintaining a healthy balance.

When you notice an insect, take time to identify it. Believe it or not, ninety-nine percent of insects are beneficial or benign, and only one percent are harmful–it can feel like more than that sometimes!¹

Technology has made identifying insects much easier. You can now use the camera on your iPhone or Android phone to take a picture of the insect and use Visual Lookup or Google Lens feature to identify it. There are also user-friendly apps such as Seek and Bug ID that can be used for this purpose. Additionally, image searches on Google can help identify pests and insects that you come across. 

The Importance of Daily Observation

Monitoring your garden daily is crucial, especially during peak pest seasons. Regular observation can help you catch pest problems early on. You may not intervene, but you will know what is happening. 

Daily monitoring also provides an excellent opportunity to observe the natural cycles of insects in your garden. Understanding the lifecycle of beneficial insects and their patterns in your garden will help you encourage their presence.

Keep a garden journal or take pictures of insects throughout the year so you can look back and identify the patterns that emerge in your garden’s ecosystem.

The Role of Beneficial Insects in Natural Pest Control

Beneficial insects, like assassin bugs, lacewings, and syrphid flies, play a significant role in maintaining balance in the garden. These insects act as organic pest controllers, feeding on various pests and their eggs. 

Assassin bugs help control nearly any insect, including hornworms, beetles, aphids, and caterpillars.¹

Lacewings help manage aphids, beetle larvae, mealybugs, spider mites, caterpillars, whiteflies, and more.¹

Praying mantis can help with moths, crickets, grasshoppers, flies, beetles, and caterpillars.¹

Spiders help manage insect eggs, beetles, aphids, cutworms, fire ants, bugs, mites, caterpillars, and more.¹

Syrphid flies help with aphids, young cabbage worms, thrips, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, and many small caterpillars.¹

Tachinid flies can help with caterpillars, beetles, cutworms, bugs, larvae, squash bugs, and more.¹

Parasitoid wasps manage aphids, beetle larvae, cabbage worms, beetles, cutworms, leafminers, mealybugs, squash vine borers, hornworms, flies, bugs, whiteflies, and many more.¹

In this guide, discover the benefits of insect hotels and learn how to effectively use them in your garden to attract beneficial bees and lacewings.

Don’t Interfere in the Predator-Prey Cycle

The predator-prey cycle is at the heart of natural pest control. In this cycle, the prey (pests) attract predators (beneficial insects) by providing them with food. The predators, in turn, keep the pest populations in check, preventing damage to your garden.

For instance, ladybugs are attracted to gardens with a high aphid population, which they feed on. By preying on the aphids, ladybugs help control their population. Similarly, lacewings are attracted to aphid colonies, which they feed on, thus reducing the aphid population. Learn more about ladybugs in this blog post.

In this cycle, pest and predator populations fluctuate but are never zero. We may begin noticing pests just as their numbers peak, which is the level that will lure beneficial insects. If we insert ourselves and eliminate the pests, it disrupts the cycle. Instead, be patient and give the beneficial insects time. They will come!¹

This cycle underscores the importance of biodiversity in the garden. A diverse range of plants provides various food sources for insects and offers a variety of habitats for them to live in. This, in turn, encourages the presence of a diverse range of insects, including the beneficial ones that help with pest control.

Encouraging Beneficial Insects in Your Garden

There are several ways you can encourage beneficial insects in your garden. First, you can provide them with the food they love. Planting various herbs and flowers that bloom at different times can attract and support beneficial insect populations. Learn more about which plants will help attract beneficials in this blog post.

Attracting the right insects can make support pollinators and reduce harmful insects naturally. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Second, avoid using pesticides, even organic ones. While pesticides may kill harmful insects, they also harm the beneficial ones, disrupting the ecosystem’s delicate balance. Pesticides can also lead to the development of pesticide resistance in pests, creating a new set of problems.¹

Additionally, you may choose to introduce beneficial insects into your garden. If you do this, consider a beneficial insect subscription service from Heirloom Roses, which gets its insects from trusted insectories. These introduced insects can help bolster populations throughout the season. Do not purchase ladybugs from local nurseries. Learn why in this blog post.

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

In conclusion, understanding the role of beneficial insects in pest control and taking steps to encourage their presence can lead to a more balanced and sustainable garden. By avoiding the use of pesticides and creating a diverse, insect-friendly environment, you can enjoy a thriving garden without the need for harmful chemicals.

Reference

1. Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, A Natural Approach to Pest Control, Jessica Walliser.

Further Reading

Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.

The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control, A Rodale Organic Gardening Book. Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley, Barbara W. Ellis, and Deborah L. Martin.

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In my garden, observing ladybugs has become a source of endless fascination. Watching all stages of their life cycle on flowering parsley, dill, and cilantro—witnessing larvae hatch out of eggs and pointing out the different stages to garden visitors—is magical. The arrival of ladybugs on aphid-infested roses or sunflowers is profoundly gratifying. Their presence is a vivid reminder of nature’s marvels and the intricate balance of ecosystems.

It’s no wonder many home gardeners consider buying these cheerful beetles. However, you should think twice before purchasing a tub of ladybugs to bring home as a quick fix for pest control. Purchased ladybugs will probably not solve your pest problem and could do more harm than good. Let’s discuss why buying ladybugs is a bad idea and, instead, learn how to attract ladybugs to come to your garden naturally.

5 Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Buy Ladybugs For Your Garden

1. Ladybug Harvesting Practices are Questionable

The commercial harvesting of ladybugs often raises ethical concerns. Most ladybugs sold at local garden centers are convergent ladybugs (Hippodamia convergens), which are frequently harvested in the wild and shipped all over the country. ¹

2. Removal is Disruptive to the Native Environment

When ladybugs are removed from their natural environment, the delicate balance of that ecosystem can be disturbed. Collecting them not only disturbs wild populations but may spread diseases to the native ladybug species in your garden. The wild collection of ladybugs may have unforeseen adverse effects on the ladybugs themselves and the broader environment. ¹

In this guide, discover the benefits of insect hotels and learn how to effectively use them in your garden to attract beneficial bees and lacewings.

3. Purchased Ladybugs are Usually in the Adult Stage

Ladybugs sold for gardens are typically adults. The adult stage is the least effective stage for pest control. Adults often consume up to 50 aphids per day, but ladybug larvae are voracious eaters and will consume 200-300. ²

4. Introduced Ladybugs Often Fly Away

There’s no guarantee they will stay in your garden once released. Ladybugs are often disoriented or scared after being collected, stuck in deep freezes, and shipped to your local garden center or home. Instead of using their energy to reproduce, they often fly away and die.

5. Purchased Ladybugs Could Include Invasive Varieties

There’s also the risk of introducing invasive species of ladybugs to your area. Asian lady beetles may be mixed in. Introduced beetles often become the dominant species and may consume native ladybugs. ³

6 Ways To Attract Ladybugs To Your Garden Naturally

Rather than buying ladybugs, there are better ways to attract these beneficial insects to your garden.

1. Stop Using Pesticides

Pesticides kill not only pests but also beneficial insects that prey on them. By avoiding these chemicals, you make your garden a safer place for ladybugs.

2. Use Organic Options Infrequently and With a Light Hand

If you must use pest control, opt for organic solutions and apply them sparingly. This approach helps preserve beneficial insects while managing pests. Avoid neem oil, which can interrupt bugs’ biological processes and is not good for beneficial insects.

3. Attract Ladybugs by Planting a Variety of Vegetables, Herbs, and Flowers

Planting a wide range of plants in your garden will attract ladybugs. One simple way to increase biodiversity is to plant a flower and an herb in each bed or area of your garden. Plants attractive to ladybugs include anise, chamomile, cosmos, daisies, feverfew, lovage, and yellow coneflower. ³ They also like companion plants like calendula, alyssum, and marigolds. (Click on the names for seeds and growing information.)

4. Allow Herbs to Bolt and Flower to Attract Ladybugs

When herbs are allowed to flower, they become irresistible to ladybugs. The flowers provide nectar and pollen, essential food sources for adult beetles to survive and reproduce.³ Cilantro, dill, parsley, and fennel are favorite choices for adult ladybugs.

Looking to add pollinator-friendly blooms to your garden this season? Don’t miss Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden.

5. Don’t Eliminate All Pests From Your Garden to Attract Ladybugs

While it seems counterintuitive, maintaining a small population of pests can be beneficial. It ensures that ladybugs have a steady food source. Don’t be too quick to spray off aphids or remove pests. Instead, wait and watch. More than likely, the beneficial insects, including ladybugs, will arrive.

The list of pests that ladybugs consume is long and includes aphids, asparagus beetle larvae, caterpillar eggs, young caterpillars, Colorado potato beetle larvae, corn earworms, lace bugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and mealy bugs. ³

6. Having Areas of Your Garden That Grow a Little Wild Will Attract Ladybugs

Ladybugs thrive in untamed environments. Allowing parts of your garden to grow wild provides shelter and breeding grounds. Plants such as dandelions, yarrows, and wild carrots will attract them to these areas.⁴ The results are cumulative and not instantaneous. The untamed area can be as large or small as your garden space allows.

Ladybugs often hibernate or overwinter in hollow stems, so leaving old stems in place gives them a reason to stay in your yard.

A Look to the Future of Beneficial Insects as Pest Control

While buying ladybugs might not be the best current practice for enhancing your garden’s ecology, there’s hope on the horizon. There is future potential for introducing two-spotted ladybugs in the larval stage. This could offer a more sustainable way to benefit from these incredible insects.

For now, instead of ladybugs, you may consider introducing other beneficial insects through programs like the Beneficial Insect Subscription from Heirloom Roses. This augementave biological control may provide an effective and eco-friendly solution to pest control challenges.

In conclusion, while buying ladybugs for immediate pest control is tempting, encouraging them to visit and stay in your garden naturally is a more effective, sustainable, and magical experience.

By fostering an environment that’s inviting to ladybugs, you’re aiding in pest control and contributing to the health of your local ecosystem without the unintended consequences that may come from buying ladybugs.

References and Further Reading

1. Plant Partners, Science-Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden, Jessica Walliser.
2. “Lady Beetles” – Cornell University’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. A comprehensive guide on ladybug species, their roles in the ecosystem, and the consequences of importing non-native species
3. Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, A Natural Approach to Pest Control, Jessica Walliser.
4. The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control, A Rodale Organic Gardening Book. Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley, Barbara W. Ellis, and Deborah L. Martin.

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To my great frustration, rollie pollies have destroyed countless seedlings in my garden. As an organic gardener, I’m unwilling to use pesticides to control pill bug numbers when they get out of balance, so I’ve had to get creative. These are my time-tested and favorite ways to keep pill bugs from killing my seeds and seedlings. 

What are pill bugs, and why are they harmful to gardens?

Pill bugs, also known as roly-polies or woodlice, are small, crustacean-like creatures that belong to the Armadillidiidae family. These gray, oval-shaped critters are about ½ inch (1.3 cm) long and are easily recognized by their ability to roll into a tight ball when threatened. Pill bugs thrive in damp environments and often hide under mulch, rocks, or decaying organic matter in gardens.

While pill bugs are important in breaking down organic material, they can become a nuisance in gardens. In large numbers, they may start feeding on tender seedlings, young plants, fruits, or vegetables close to the ground, such as strawberries and squash. This feeding can stunt growth, damage crops, and reduce harvests, especially in gardens with an abundance of decaying plant matter that supports a growing population.

1. Don’t give rollie pollies in the garden what they want

Pill bugs prefer damp and dark hiding places. Try not to make life comfortable for them. To manage pill bugs, focus on reducing excessive moisture, avoiding over-mulching, and removing the food source debris where they might hide. Encouraging natural predators like birds can also help keep their population in check.

Remove wet leaves, fallen fruit, and dead organic matter from your garden. Try not to overwater your garden, as rollie pollies are also attracted to moisture. These steps can be helpful, but if you still have problems, keep reading for more ways to keep pill bugs from destroying your garden.

2. Set traps

If an area of your garden has an overabundance of pill bugs, setting traps is an effective way to bring the numbers back in balance. Check traps daily, and remove and either discard or transplant the pill bugs to other areas of your yard. 

Citrus or fruit traps as a natural pill bug control method

Cut the fruit in half and place it face down in the affected area. The pill bugs will be drawn to the fruit. Check traps in the morning, and dig down a bit to collect the rollie pollies. Fruit can often be used for 2-3 days in a row. 

Beer or yeast traps as a natural pill bug control method

Set a shallow container (such as a pie plate) with the rim flush to the ground; fill with beer or 1-2 Tb yeast dissolved in water. The rollie pollies will be drawn to the beer or yeast, fall in, and drown. Yeast and beer traps are very effective.

3. Use collars

Sick of losing my vegetable garden seedlings to rollie pollie damage, I wrapped the stems in duct tape (sticky side out) and it worked! The seedlings are thriving with no pest damage to the stems. This organic gardener technique is quick, simple, and effective. I’ve also used newspaper and toilet paper rolls as collars effectively. 

Duct tape collar as a natural pill bug control method

Wrap a small piece of duct tape (sticky side out) around the stem of a seedling. Bury one-half of the taped stem in the ground, leaving some of the tape above ground as well. Remove the tape when the stem grows larger to keep the tape from suffocating the stem. 

Newspaper collar as a natural pill bug control method

Tear a couple-inch strip of newspaper and carefully wrap it around the seedling stem, burying some if possible. As the seedling grows, the paper will fall off — no need to remove it. 

Paper tube collar as a natural pill bug control method

Slide the tube over the seedling and into the soil. It’s best to have the collar buried an inch or two below the soil. 

I’ve had mixed success with this type of collar. Sometimes it works. Other times the pill bugs get inside the collar. 

4. Overplant to overwhelm rollie pollies in the garden

Certain crops are best started in the garden from seed, which makes using collar methods ineffective – the seedlings are often eaten before there is anything above ground to protect. When this happens, I usually try overplanting. 

For example, instead of planting 1-2 seeds, I plant 3-4 seeds. In my experience, at least one of the seeds is overlooked or somehow protected by the other seedlings and not eaten by the rollie pollies — success! 

If more than one seedling survives, thin additional seedlings by cutting at the soil level rather than pulling. (Pulling may disturb the roots of remaining seedlings.)

5. Use Slug & Snail Bait, Diatomaceous earth (DE), or Nematodes

Using slug & snail bait to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait is OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) Listed. This bait is very effective in areas where rollie pollies are an issue. Use according to package directions. After planting beans twice, none came up. After replanting the third time, I sprinkled a small amount of this and had beans emerge within days, undamaged. It’s iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. They eat the iron phosphate, which slows them down so much they die. It’s non toxic to worms and may help plants flower.

Using diatomaceous earth (DE) to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be an effective means of controlling pill bug populations around your plants. DE is safe to handle (for animals and pets, too) but not to inhale – wear a mask while using.

DE, or diatomaceous earth, works to kill pill bugs by dehydrating them. Diatomaceous earth is made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms called diatoms. When pill bugs come into contact with DE, the sharp edges of the diatoms cut through the bug’s exoskeleton and absorb the moisture, causing the bug to dehydrate and die.

DE is commonly used in organic pest control because it is non-toxic to humans, pets, and the environment. However, to ensure effective and safe usage, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label when using DE.

To use DE for pill bug control, apply a thin layer around their frequented areas, wear gloves and a mask, avoid windy conditions, and re-apply after rain. Apply in the late afternoon when the bugs are active and follow the product label for safe and effective results.

Using nematodes to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Nematodes are microscopic organisms that are often used as a natural method of controlling pests in gardens.

Specifically, the Steinernema carpocapsae nematode is effective at targeting and killing pill bugs. These nematodes are applied to the soil in the garden and penetrate the skin of the pill bug. Once inside, they release a bacteria that quickly kills the pill bug.

Using nematodes for pest control is considered a safe and environmentally friendly option as they only attack specific pests and do not harm beneficial insects or soil quality. However, it’s important to follow the application instructions carefully to ensure the nematodes are introduced properly.

Additionally, nematodes may not be as effective if the soil is too dry or too hot, so it’s important to monitor the environmental conditions in your garden to determine the best time to use this method.

Natural Control Methods for Pill Bugs

I’ve found that combining these methods is the best way to bring pill bug numbers back into balance. Effective methods for combating pill bug damage in a home garden include reducing favorable environmental conditions, creating physical barriers, using predators, manually removing the bugs, and using natural repellents.

Looking for more information about managing pests?

Do you have other pests in your garden? Read this post for organic pest control that really works. 

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Learn how to make nutrient-rich organic worm castings tea for bigger harvests, healthier trees & pest-free gardens. Zach from Arizona Worm Farm shares his recipe.

Article Outline:

• What is worm castings tea?
• How & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach’s Recipe for a Pest Free Garden
• Why bother making it?
• What are the benefits of worm castings tea?
• Worm castings tea recipe development
• Use fresh and varied inputs for the best tea
• Gather the supplies
• Zach’s Worm Casting Tea Recipe
• How to apply worm castings tea
• When to apply worm castings tea

What is worm castings tea?

Worm castings tea, also known as vermicompost tea, worm compost tea, or worm casting tea, is a nutrient-rich, organic fertilizer brewed by soaking worm castings (and other ingredients), in aerated water. It’s a natural way to feed your plants and boost soil health, teeming with beneficial microbes and minerals.

Zach from Arizona Worm Farm has spent the last five years perfecting his recipe, and now he’s sharing it with us so we can learn how to make worm castings tea at home.

How & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach’s Recipe for a Pest Free Garden

Guest post by Zach Brooks, Owner of Arizona Worm Farm

Why bother making it?

It’s a lot of trouble – so let’s start with why. Quite simply: Your vegetable yield will increase. Your trees will be healthier. Your flowers will be bug-free.

What are the benefits of worm castings tea?

There’s a lot of soil science – pure academic research and decades of field testing that backs up this basic concept: if you suspend microbes in clean water and add air, the microbes will multiply dramatically. When you then transfer that microbe-laden brew into your soils and onto your plants, the microbes thrive and do what they do almost immediately.

Here’s what all those microbes do:

• Help produce thicker leaves so your plants protect themselves against frost, sunburn, and pests. 
• Rapidly convert organic matter from the soil into food for your plants.  
• Tell your plants there are pests present before those pests arrive, so your plant protects itself from the inside out.  
• Extend the reach of your plant’s roots so your plants grow better with less water. 
• Eat harmful microbes.  
• Improve soil structure through the formation of soil aggregates. 
• Increase soil porosity, resulting in better aeration and water retention. 
• Stop the degradation of soil pollutants and provide pH buffering.

Convinced about the benefits of worm castings tea? Let’s talk about how to make it.

Worm castings tea recipe development

Over the last five years, I have run more than 125 experiments where a standard recipe was compared to variations of ingredients or procedures.

We then looked for and counted microbes under a microscope.

Worm castings experiment findings:

• The 27-hour brewing time increased protozoa activity.
• Humic acid stimulated fungi activity.
• Kelp stimulated protozoa activity.
• Fish fertilizer stimulated fungi activity and increased nutrient content.
• Worm castings resulted in increased fungi content.

I am going to share our recipe and approach – although I will reiterate, that this is a bit of a bother, and you need the correct inputs to get this right. 

We sell it fresh every Saturday morning here at the Worm Farm. An easier option is to just come by a gallon or two.

Use fresh and varied inputs for the best tea

Start with as varied and healthy a collection of microbes as possible. Use your castings, fresh from your worm bin, and your compost, fresh from your piles. Use other sources of microbes like hydrated mulch that is breaking down or mushroom compost.  

If you don’t have your own, buy them from a local farm where you can get fresh. The big box compost and worm castings sealed in plastic do not have much microbial life. If you come here to my farm and want inputs for your tea, tell us so we can sell you unscreened material.

We don’t screen any of the inputs before we use them to make our tea here. The compost and castings will have larger chunks of wood than our typical commercial product. This mostly serves to reduce microbe exposure to heat and dryness and to avoid breaking fungal hyphae strands.  

The other ingredients are humic extract, kelp meal, fish hydrolysate, and Arizona Worm Farm’s BSFL Nutrient +. How many of these you use is up to you. The extra additives will improve the tea but are not essential.

Gather the supplies

• A seven-gallon bucket (This size allows you to make 5 gallons of tea.)
• A “tea bag” (You can add the material to the water and aerate it, but the bag makes it easier to spray and use in our gardens.)
• A pump that can produce a “rolling boil” – bubbles that make the water look like it is boiling hard – with no heat. We recommend this home brewing kit from Compost Tea Lab. It contains a pump, a bubble snake, and a tea bag.
• Hose end sprayer
• Fresh worm castings
• Unscreened compost
• Decomposed hydrated wood chip mulch
• Humic extract
• Commercial kelp meal 
• Fish hydrolysate
• Arizona Worm Farm’s BSFL Nutrient + 

Zach’s Worm Casting Tea Recipe

Serving Size:

5 gallons

Time:

24-27 hours

Difficulty:

Medium

Ingredients

• 5 Gallons (19 liters) of pure well water, collected rainwater, or city water allowed to sit out overnight. *see note
• 12 oz (340g) worm castings 
• 4 oz (113g) of unscreened handmade compost
• 4 oz (113g) decomposed wood chip mulch (hydrated)
• 2 Tablespoons (30g) humic acid
• 2 Tablespoons (30g)  kelp meal
• 2 Tablespoons (30g) fish hydrolysate
• 2 Tablespoons (30g)  AZWF BSFL Nutrient+

Directions

1. Place the bubble snake in the bucket.
2. Add 5 gallons of water to the bucket. (see temperature note below)
3. Fill the compost tea bag with castings, compost, and mulch.
4. Tie the tea bag to the snake.
5. Add liquid and powdered ingredients to the bucket.
6. Turn on the pump.
7. Replace ingredients in the tea bag with fresh castings, compost, and mulch after 1 hour and again after 2 hours. After the 3rd hour of aeration, take the tea bag out of the bucket. (Add spent ingredients to garden beds or containers.)
8. Continue aerating the tea for 21-24 hours, but not longer.
9. Use tea within 2-3 hours. The microbes begin dying when you take the tea off the bubbler. After 4 hours, the numbers return to where you started. 

* A note about water: Most city water has chlorine to kill parasites, bacteria, and viruses. It kills the bad stuff but also kills the good stuff. If you only have access to city water, add water to the bucket and let it sit overnight. The chlorine will dissipate. If you are in a hurry, boiling for 15 minutes will have the same effect. Allow to cool before use.

Temperature: Keep water temperature between 60-70°F (15.5-21°C)–above 85°F-90°F (29-32°C) is too hot.

Recipe courtesy of Zach Brooks, owner of Arizona Worm Farm

Printable copy of the worm castings recipe:

How to apply worm castings tea

There are many ways to apply tea – and they are all easy. 

As a soil drench: Pour it on the soil around your plants. Add 2 gallons of water to each gallon of tea for a soil drench. Or use it at full strength and then water the soil well.

Foliar feed: Add it to a hose-end sprayer and spray it as a foliar feed.

• Strain the tea through an extra fine mesh strainer before use.
• Put the dial on the “most product” level and fill the jar with undiluted tea.
• Rinse the filter in the hose end sprayer frequently. The hose end sprayer should empty quickly. If it is not emptying, the filter may be clogged.

Irrigation injection system: Follow system instructions for use.

 When to apply worm castings tea

1. At the beginning of each season

• In the fall to get your plants ready for frost.
• In the spring for a harvest boost.
• Just before summer to get plants ready for the heat. 
• Use it as often as weekly; it only does good. However, more than four times a year is probably not worth the time and money.

2. When setting up new garden beds or adding fresh soil

Apply tea when you set up a new bed (to get the soil ready). For best results, apply it a week or two before you plant, and then keep the soil watered like you had plants in it.

3. When planting new trees

Using worm castings tea when you plant new trees has been shown to dramatically reduce transplant shock and help new trees establish roots.

4. To add microbes when fertilizing your fruit trees

Adding microbes in the form of worm castings or worm castings tea is the first of four steps to fertilizing fruit trees. Learn the additional steps in this blog post.

Arizona Worm Farm offers fresh worm castings tea most Saturdays. They also offer mobile tea sprays. See their website for availability.

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Are you having trouble keeping your garden healthy and productive? Use this list of ten essential daily gardening tasks to take your garden from struggling to thriving. It’s easy to focus on the big tasks that need to be done in the garden. However, it is often the small simple things we do on a daily basis that will have the biggest impact on the health of our garden.

Garden Care Schedule for your Daily Gardening Routine:

1. Check the watering

Struggling = Overwatered plants have saturated soil and grow slowly. Underwatered plants are wilted with yellowing dried leaves.

Thriving = Plants that are watered correctly are healthy and grow well. They are less stressed and less prone to pests & disease.

Don’t assume your garden needs watering; first, check the soil. Put a finger in the soil; if it comes up with soil on it, wait before watering. If your finger is dry, it’s time to water.

Three key tips for watering:

• Newly planted seeds or seedlings will need watering more often until they get established.
• Watering in the morning helps hydrate plants for the day.
• Try to be in the garden when the water is running. You’ll spot leaks and broken timers and emitters that way, too. 

 2. Thin seedlings

Struggling = Too many seedlings too close together crowd each other out and compete for sunlight and nutrients. None of them grow well.

Thriving = Each seedling has enough room. Seedlings grow quickly and get established. 

After planting seeds, thin them early and often. Young seedlings will grow and thrive when given enough room. Check mature spacing guidelines and square foot spacing in this blog post. 

3. Keep up with pruning, weeding, and deadheading 

Struggling = Tasks build up, and they become overwhelming. You don’t know where to begin. There is too much to do! Suckers and weeds grow large and take energy away from growing plants. 

Thriving = Daily pruning and cleaning up keeps tasks manageable. Plants are healthy and productive. 

I always have my favorite pruners when I head out to the garden each morning. If you see something that needs to be pruned or cleaned up, do it right away. Plants are healthier and happier when kept in check and cleaned up. Essential garden tasks include:

1. Prune off dead, dying leaves. 
2. Prune suckers out of plants. 
3. Deadhead flowers.
4. Pull weeds when they are small before they can spread seeds.
5. Cut back flowers to encourage branching. 
6. Keep herbs pruned back.
7. Keep your garden clean & pick up debris.

4.  Look for bugs: good and bad​  

Struggling = You’re afraid to check the garden because of the pests. Squash bugs are multi-generational and out of control. You have to pull plants to prevent infestations from spreading.

Thriving = Daily checks on the undersides of leaves for problem pests keep numbers in check. Soapy water nearby makes it easy to dispose of problem pests. You see signs of beneficial insects and understand how they can help. 

Make it a point to observe nature during your daily gardening routine. This doesn’t mean reaching for a spray bottle, every time you see a bug. However, it’s important to be aware of what is happening in your garden. Apps like “Seek” help identify which bugs are in your garden. Read this post to learn more about organic pest control options.

1. Look for holes, check the undersides of leaves, check around plants, and check new seedlings.
2. Pay attention to the patterns of pests/beneficial insects throughout the year.

5. Learn to spot the first signs of disease in your garden

Struggling = Plants are overtaken with disease and have to be pulled. Garden diseases build up in your soil and come back each season.

Thriving = You remove diseased leaves as soon as you see them and then monitor that plant closely. You clean your tools each time you use them to prevent the spread of diseases. 

Removing affected leaves is often a good first step in treating garden diseases. Daily observation will help you know what further treatment steps are needed if the problem progresses.

Catching problems when small helps keep them under control and prevents spreading to the rest of your garden. Clean tools meticulously and dispose of any leaves in the garbage, not compost. 

10 Essential Garden Tasks to Take Your Garden from Struggling to Thriving (continued)

6. Help your plants find the trellises

Struggling = Plants are overgrown with unruly branches that break when you train them to the trellis. 

Thriving = You give young plants and branches a nudge or clip them in place as they grow, and they happily climb trellises. 

Vertical gardening keeps plants healthier and more productive, but if the plant doesn’t find the trellis, it can’t climb. Other plants must be clipped to or woven up the trellis. Larger branches are less pliable and may break, but young growth is easy to train.

7. Look at the blossoms. Do you need to hand-pollinate anything? 

Struggling = Female blossoms wither and die because they aren’t pollinated. Fruits do not mature before the season ends. 

Thriving = You are in the garden when blossoms open and hand-pollinate as needed to ensure fruits form on squash, cantaloupe, and other plants. 

The best time to do your daily gardening routine is in the morning – many blossoms are only open first thing in the morning. Learn the difference between male and female blossoms and hand-pollinate as needed.

A bonus tip: Plant flowers and allow herbs to flower to attract pollinators so you won’t have to hand-pollinate as often. Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

9. Check on vermicomposting and composting bins

Struggling = Plants aren’t growing well. 

Thriving = You add food scraps and yard waste to composting bins and amend your beds regularly.

The best fertilizer for plants is fresh worm castings and compost from your vermicomposting and compost bins. Daily attention to this essential gardening task will keep them producing worm castings and compost to add to your garden. 

Vermicomposting bins: Collect kitchen scraps. Check on 1-2 bins daily to monitor worms’ health. Add scraps or harvest finished worm castings as needed—Spread and water in castings. Take note of where you need to add more food scraps. Learn more about in-bed vermicomposting in this blog post.

Compost bins: As part of your garden care schedule, add disease-free yard waste to bins regularly. Monitor the temperature of compost bins and turn or water piles as needed. Learn more about how to compost in this blog post.

9. Keep up with the harvesting

Struggling = Fruit is left on the vine and gets rotten, attracting pests. Vegetables become tough or overgrown, and production slows down. 

Thriving = You harvest as needed daily and incorporate that food into your daily diet and menus. 

When you go out to the garden, bring a basket with you, and when something is ready to be picked, pick it! Pick young and pick often to encourage production. Monitor crops that usually get damaged by birds or pests and harvest early or put barrier methods in place before they ripen.

10. Enjoy being in the garden

Struggling = Being in the garden stresses you out because there is so much work! 

Thriving = You look around and feel content about what you accomplished. You realize that daily, consistent efforts are better for your garden and easier for you! 

Create a spot to rest, relax, and observe the beauty and wildlife as part of your daily garden routine. There may always be work that can be done. However, if you spend a little time each day, those tasks won’t overwhelm you. Instead of dreading it, you will look forward to time in the garden. 

Remember to comment with one of your daily gardening routine tips for a successful garden! Learn how to start a garden in this guide.

If these ideas for a garden care schedule were helpful, please share:

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What exactly is organic gardening? How is it different from regular gardening? Why does it matter? 

Organic gardening is more than just not using pesticides and other chemicals in your garden; it is a way of gardening that makes pesticide and chemical use not needed. 

This post will answer the following questions about organic gardening:

What is organic gardening? Organic gardening is growing fruits, vegetables, herbs, and other plants without the use of synthetic chemical fertilizers or pesticides. 

How is organic gardening different from regular gardening? Organic gardening focuses on creating a healthy environment for plants to thrive in from the beginning rather than gardening in a reactive way to adverse conditions in the garden. 

Why does organic gardening matter? The outcome of organic gardening is food full of good things rather than chemicals and pesticides. Rather than depleting the soil, it leaves the soil better than you found it.

7 Things Organic Gardeners Do Differently

Including 30 Practical Suggestions for Implementing Organic Gardening Principles

These 7 principles (when followed) will make organic gardening not only simple, but successful as well. 

The first step is to eliminate the use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Once you have done that, implement the organic gardening practices as you can. Over time, continue to incorporate more. As you do, they will work together just as nature intended.

1. How to be an organic gardener: Focus on feeding the soil, not the plant

Synthetic fertilizers offer a quick shot of nutrients to plants. Adding organic matter and organic amendments to the soil contribute to the rich diversity in microorganisms and life teeming below the surface. This rich life in the soil then feeds the plant. 

Adding compost is one of the best ways to improve your garden soil.

Ideas for feeding the soil: 

• Regularly top beds off with compost.
• After using a soil test, add organic soil amendments such as blood meal, bone meal, and rock phosphorus as needed to replenish the soil. 
• Grow cover crops and turn them back under the soil.
• Add vermicomposting bins to your garden beds.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

2. How to be an organic gardener: Avoid diseases rather than treating them

As with most aspects of organic gardening, the goal with diseases in the garden is prevention. 

Ideas for disease prevention: 

• Choose disease-resistant varieties of crops, especially if you have had disease issues in the past. 
• Water in the morning and avoid getting water on the leaves of plants. 
• Develop a system for crop rotation for different families of plants; diseases often build up in the soil after repeated plantings. 
• Dispose of diseased crops rather than composting them.

3. How to be an organic gardener: Prevent and pull weeds instead of spraying chemicals on them

Weeds are a common nuisance in the garden, but a few techniques can get them under control. 

Ideas for organic weed control: 

• Manually pull weeds before they go to seed. This prevents more seed from being sown for weeds.
• Garden in raised beds which naturally have fewer weeds.
• In areas where weeds are an issue, consider growing a cover crop to choke out the weeds. 

4. How to be an organic gardener: Grow healthy plants that can withstand a little pest damage

Plants that are not stressed can handle insect infestations without succumbing. 

These practices will help plants be healthier:

• Inconsistent watering stresses plants; use a timer or automatic watering system to provide water consistently. 
• Rather than shallow watering, focus on watering the entire root zone of plants each time you water. This encourages the roots to grow deep. Deep roots can withstand environmental stresses better. 
• Provide adequate nutrition, but do not over-fertilize plants. Excess nitrogen makes plants more attractive to insects and disease. 
• Plants have a preferred growing temperature. Growing plants outside of their preferred growing conditions causes stress and plants are more likely to have pest and disease issues.

5. How to be an organic gardener: Manage pests mindfully

Learn to control the urge to reach for a chemical spray every time you see a bug.

Here are a few methods to implement, listed from least invasive to most invasive. Always begin with the least invasive first. 

• Learn which bugs are beneficial and which are destructive in your area.
• Do nothing; healthy plants can often withstand some damage.
• Use barrier methods such as floating row cover to prevent infestations.
• Use sticky traps for airborne pests.
• Hand-pick large insects and remove infected leaves.
• Spray off with water.
• Use Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) for caterpillars and other leaf-eating insects.
• Pull heavily-infested plants rather than treating them, and dispose of them (do not compost).  

6. How to be an organic gardener: Plant the right plant in the right place and the correct time so it can thrive

Although many gardeners like to stretch the boundaries of what is possible to grow in their region and climate, this can be stressful on plants. Growing plants suited to your garden’s condition that are adapted to your area often grow well without the need for extraordinary measures.

How to implement this principle:

• Select native varieties or those adapted to your area.
• Understand the different microclimates in your garden, and choose locations best-suited for each type of plant.
• Plant at the correct time of year (use a local planting guide for reference).

7. How to be an organic gardener: Practice companion planting and polyculture practices to encourage a healthy ecosystem in the garden

When a garden is host to a wide variety of plants (polyculture), it more closely mimics nature and increases the overall health of the garden. 

Monocultures (large areas with one type of plant) are inviting to pests and disease; it is easy for the pests to find their host plants. 

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

How to encourage a healthy ecosystem:

• Learn the preferred companions for plants in your garden and plant them nearby.
• Add similar plants to different areas of your garden; don’t clump them all together.
• Interplant several different types of plants with similar growing needs in the same bed or location.
• Add a wide variety of perennial herbs and flowers to your garden.
• Allow herbs to flower and attract beneficial insects and pollinators to your garden.

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, “Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden”, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

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