Article Index:

1. Examine Existing Beds
2. Evaluate the Soil
   • Why Not Till?
3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost
4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings
5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

1. Examine Existing Beds

Begin by doing a quick visual assessment of your garden beds:

• Raised Bed Condition
  • Do the sides need any repairs?
  • Are there gaps or signs of rotting wood or weakened materials?
• Irrigation Check
  • Is your watering system functioning correctly?
  • Are there any leaks, clogged emitters, or areas not receiving adequate moisture?
  • Is the coverage sufficient for all plants?

If you need to update or replace your beds, I highly recommend the metal raised beds and watering grids from Garden in Min

utes. I’ve used them in my own garden for years, and they’ve been incredibly durable and easy to maintain. Plus, the watering grids ensure even moisture for your plants. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100, or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.

2. Evaluate the Soil

Once your beds are structurally sound, shift focus to the soil itself:

• Soil Level & Texture
  • Has the soil level dropped significantly? Consider whether you need to top off with fresh raised bed mix or if a layer of compost would suffice.
  • Is the soil still loose and friable? If it feels compacted or you notice a drastic change in texture, supplementing with components like coconut coir, vermiculite, or a raised bed mix that includes those may be necessary. I use the raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm. Learn more about this soil mixture here.

• Weeds, Diseases & Pest History
  • Were there major weed issues, diseases, or pest infestations last season? If so, remove any remaining plant debris or weeds to prevent carry-over problems. If Bermuda grass is an issue, read this guide.

Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

• Soil Testing
  • If your garden is growing well, this step may not be necessary. But if plants have struggled or not grown well a soil test is a good way to see what is going on.
  • Soil pH & Nutrient Levels: A soil test is the best way to know precisely what amendments your garden needs. You’ll learn about nutrient deficiencies (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients) and whether pH adjustments are necessary.
  • Use a reliable, easy-to-read soil test kit or send samples to a local extension office for professional analysis. This is the soil test kit I use.
  • Follow test recommendations to address any imbalances before you plant. Learn more about how to test your soil in this guide.

Tip: Don’t till your soil. Tilling disturbs the good things that are happening in your soil!

Why Not Till?

• Preserves Soil Structure
  Tilling can break apart soil aggregates and damage fragile networks of fungi and microorganisms. Undisturbed soil holds water and nutrients more effectively.
• Protects Beneficial Organisms
  Earthworms, microbes, and other helpful creatures thrive when left undisturbed. These organisms improve soil fertility by breaking down organic matter and making nutrients available to plants.
• Reduces Weed Pressure
  Tilling can expose dormant weed seeds to sunlight, causing them to germinate. Leaving the soil undisturbed helps keep those seeds buried and less likely to sprout.
• Prevents Erosion
  Soil with a stable, undisturbed structure is less prone to wind and water erosion, helping maintain soil depth and quality over time.

By minimizing disturbance and simply layering organic matter (like compost) on top, you enhance your soil’s natural processes—resulting in healthier, more resilient garden beds.

3. Amend your Soil by Adding Compost

One of the most essential steps in amending soil is adding compost. Compost is a cornerstone amendment for any garden.

• Benefits of Compost
  • Improves Soil Structure: Loosens heavy clay and helps sandy soils hold moisture.
  • Adds Nutrients: Contains essential plant nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, plus beneficial micronutrients.
  • Boosts Beneficial Organisms: Feeds microbes and earthworms that help make nutrients more available to plants.
  • Reduces Diseases & Pests: Compost can help suppress some plant diseases and pests.
  • Enhances Moisture Retention: Helps the soil hold water, reducing the need for frequent watering.
• How to Add Compost
  • Layer, Don’t Till: Spread at least one inch (2.54 cm) of compost on top of your soil. Earthworms and microbes will integrate it naturally.
  • Dealing with Mulch: If you have a thick mulch layer, pull it back, add compost, and then replace or refresh the mulch as needed.
• Which Compost to Use
  • Homemade: Homemade compost is best if you can make it. Learn how to make compost in this guide.
  • Locally Sourced: A local, trusted compost supplier is your next-best option.
  • Store-Bought: If using bagged compost, buy multiple brands for a varied nutrient profile.

4. Prepare Your Soil for Planting by Adding Worm Castings

Worm castings are a powerful, natural soil amendment:

• Why Use Worm Castings?
  • Naturally high in beneficial microbes and nutrients.
  • Gentle, slow release of fertility that won’t burn plants if applied correctly.
• How Much to Add
  • For established beds, apply 4 cups per 4×8 bed.
  • In new beds, aim for around 5% worm castings (11 gallons per 4×8 bed).
  • Layer them on top of the soil and lightly water them in.
• In-Bed Vermicomposting
  • Add an in-bed vermicomposting bin for an ongoing supply of worm castings directly in your raised bed. It’s a low-maintenance way of amending soil throughout the growing season. Learn how to add vermicomposting bins to your garden here.

To learn more about the benefits of worm castings, read this guide by Zach Brooks of Arizona Worm Farm.

Tip: Apply 4 cups fresh worm castings to each 4×8 raised bed each season.

5. Add Other Needed Amendments to Prepare Your Soil for Planting

Although I add compost and worm castings each season, I don’t always add other amendments. You can finalize your plan for amending soil based on your soil test results. Consider these common soil amendments:

1. Biochar (link to purchase)
   • Improves soil texture and water retention.
   • It acts like a sponge, holding nutrients until plants need them.
   • It can raise pH, so be mindful if your soil is already alkaline.
2. Azomite (Rock Dust) (link to purchase)
   • Rich in minerals and trace elements that garden soil may lack.
   • Useful for amending soil that has been heavily used or depleted.
3. Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (link to purchase)
   • Beneficial for clay or compacted soils.
   • Helps loosen particles and improve drainage.
4. Blood Meal (link to purchase)
   • Quick source of nitrogen.
   • Follow label instructions to avoid over-fertilization.
5. Bone Meal (link to purchase)
   • Adds phosphorus for strong root growth and flower/fruit production.
   • Also provides calcium and some nitrogen.
6. Kelp Meal/Seaweed Extract (link to purchase)
   • Offers micronutrients, natural growth hormones, and stress resistance.
   • Great for amending soil to support seed germination and root development.
7. Green Sand or Langbeinite (link to purchase)
   • Green sand supplies potassium and micronutrients.
   • Langbeinite delivers potassium, magnesium, and sulfur—excellent if your test indicates shortages.

Even the best mix will need refreshing over time. My guide on how to fill a raised bed explains what to add initially and how to keep improving soil season after season.

If you’re looking for tools, soil amendments, seed-starting gear, or even supplies for keeping chickens, check out my carefully curated gardening supplies and tools page. It includes everything I rely on in the garden.

Tip: Always adhere to recommended application rates when amending soil, as over-amending can cause nutrient imbalances.

Final Thoughts

Taking the time at the beginning of each season to prepare garden soil before planting pays off by reducing problems later on and boosting plant performance. By layering amendments like compost and worm castings, adding specific nutrients based on a soil test, and avoiding deep tilling, you’ll keep your soil structure healthy and full of beneficial organisms.

Healthy soil is a living ecosystem. With consistent care and careful amending of soil, your garden will become more productive and resilient each season—setting the stage for vigorous plants, fewer pest problems, and delicious, abundant harvests.

If you are gardening in the low desert or another hot, dry climate, the Desert Gardening page is the best place to start. It brings together all my seasonal planting guides, tips for creating shade and managing heatwaves, and advice for protecting plants from frost. Having everything in one place makes it easy to find exactly what you need for each season.

If this post about amending your soil and preparing your garden before planting was helpful, please share it.

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Article Outline:

• Why Soil Quality is Essential for Raised Beds
• The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix
• What is in Mel’s Mix?
• Arizona Worm Farm Raised Bed Mix
• Advantages of Using Mel’s Mix for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening
• How to Combine the Ingredients for Mel’s Mix
• Maintaining Your Raised Bed Soil

Why Soil Quality is Essential for Raised Beds

Raised beds offer numerous advantages, but success depends mainly on the soil quality you use. Here’s why soil quality is so important:

• Better Drainage: Good raised bed soil improves drainage while ensuring that plants still get the needed moisture.
• Root Growth: Loamy, well-aerated soil encourages roots to spread and access nutrients.
• Nutrient Availability: Nutrient-rich soil is vital for healthy plant growth and productive harvests.
• Soil Structure: The right blend of organic matter and aeration helps create a loose, crumbly texture that plants thrive in.

Good soil is the foundation—but layout matters too. See how my garden beds, containers, and fruit trees fit together in a cohesive design.

If you’re wondering what the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is, the answer is simple—Mel’s Mix.

The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix

I didn’t come up with this mix; we can thank Mel Bartholomew, the author of Square Foot Gardening, for developing a simple, effective soil blend for raised bed gardening. After reading his book in 2008, I followed his advice for making Mel’s Mix, which he calls “the most important, productive, essential, necessary, critical” ingredient for square-foot gardening success—and it worked!

Mel’s Mix is a tried-and-true solution for raised beds, providing an ideal balance of moisture retention, aeration, and nutrient availability.

What is in Mel’s Mix?

Regular garden soil is too dense for raised bed gardening. Mel’s Mix solves that problem by combining compost, coco coir, and vermiculite to keep the soil light and airy. This blend provides excellent drainage and a healthy environment for plant roots. Here’s the breakdown:

• One part compost: You can make your compost, or if you live in Arizona, the compost from Arizona Worm Farm is a great option. If you use bagged compost, it’s best to mix several different types.
• One part coco coir: A sustainable alternative to peat moss that retains moisture and improves soil structure.
• One part vermiculite or perlite: These materials help with soil aeration and moisture retention.
• 3-5% worm castings: About 1/3 gallon per cubic foot adds beneficial microbes and nutrients. Make your own with in-bed vermicomposting bins or purchase them locally if possible.
• 1/2 cup basalt dust per cubic foot adds trace minerals that benefit plant health.

Depending on your needs, you can also adjust the mix by using up to 50% compost and 25% each of vermiculite and coco coir.

Arizona Worm Farm Raised Bed Mix

In the Fall of 2020, Arizona Worm Farm began offering a ready-made soil mix called “Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix.” This mix contains the perfect blend of compost, coco coir, vermiculite, worm castings, and basalt dust. It’s available by the bag or yard. This premixed soil is an easy, convenient option for anyone looking for the best soil for raised beds in the Phoenix area.

Advantages of Using Mel’s Mix for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

Mel’s Mix offers several distinct advantages that make it the best choice for raised bed vegetable gardening:

• Simplified Drainage: The combination of vermiculite and coco coir ensures excellent water retention while preventing waterlogging. The soil absorbs moisture, and excess moisture easily drains away when saturated. You can’t overwater with this mix!
• Easy Seed Germination: Seeds germinate quickly in this light, airy mixture, making it ideal for direct sowing in raised beds.
• Minimal Weeds: One of Mel’s Mix’s biggest benefits is its weed-free nature. Since the soil stays light and loose, weeds have difficulty establishing themselves.
• Oxygen for Roots: Healthy roots need both oxygen and water. Mel’s Mix’s light texture allows plant roots to access both, leading to vigorous growth.

How to Combine the Ingredients for Mel’s Mix

There are a couple of ways to mix the ingredients for the best soil for raised bed gardening:

1. Batch Mixing on a Tarp: Spread a tarp on the ground and combine the compost, coco coir, and vermiculite in batches. Once everything is mixed, dump the contents into your raised bed and water thoroughly.
2. Layering in the Raised Bed: You can layer the ingredients directly in the raised bed, mixing well after each addition. This “lasagna style” approach is convenient and works just as well.

It’s a good idea to mix up a little extra of Mel’s Mix to fill containers or top off your raised beds throughout the season. Store it in a large, lidded garbage can for easy access.

Maintaining Your Raised Bed Soil

Over time, the soil level in your raised beds will decrease as the organic matter breaks down. Adding more compost each time you plant is important to keep the soil level topped up and maintain its nutrient content.

• Compost: As the compost decomposes, it enriches the soil with essential nutrients. Keep adding compost to your raised beds with each planting cycle to maintain healthy, nutrient-rich soil. For more information on how to make your compost, check out my composting guide.
• No Need to Replace Coco Coir and Vermiculite: Unlike compost, coco coir and vermiculite don’t break down as quickly, so you won’t need to replenish these components each season. Just focus on adding fresh compost.
• Add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your beds. Worms break down food scraps and create nutrient-rich worm castings right in your garden bed. Read this in-bed vermicomposting guide to learn how to add these bins to your beds.

Using the right mix and maintaining your soil over time ensures that your raised beds remain productive for years. Whether you mix your own or opt for a premade option like Arizona Worm Farm’s Raised Bed Mix, getting the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening will give you healthier plants, fewer weeds, and bigger harvests.

When you are ready to build new beds, learn step-by-step how to fill a raised bed with the right soil and amendments.

For more soil resources on my blog, read these articles:

• How to Prepare Your Soil For Planting
• How to Refresh Old Potting Soil
• Soil Testing: When and How to Test Your Soil

If this article about the best soil for raised beds was helpful, please share it.

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IMPORTANT NOTE: If the plant in the container struggled with pests or disease, it’s best to dispose of the soil, clean out the container, and begin with fresh potting soil.

Article Outline:

1. Empty Soil Onto a Tarp or Wheelbarrow
2. Remove Old Plant Material
3. Loosen and Water the Soil
4. Mix in Fresh Worm Castings
5. Incorporate Organic Fertilizers
6. Add New Potting Mix
7. Fill Containers Back Up

1. Empty Old Potting Soil Onto a Tarp or Wheelbarrow

The first step in refreshing old potting soil is to dump out the existing contents of the container onto the tarp or into a wheelbarrow.

Once the soil is out, it’s a good time to clean the inside of the container with a stiff brush and ensure the drainage holes are not blocked. Rinse it well and let it dry in the sun. Also, scrub off any ollas. Clean ollas will wick water more efficiently.

2. Remove Old Plant Material

Removing old plant material is the next step in reinvigorating old container soil. This includes pulling out spent plants, roots, and any debris left in the soil.

NOTE: If there isn’t much soil left after the plant material is gone, it may be best to start over with high-quality potting soil.

3. Loosen and Water the Soil

Over time, container soil can become compacted, making it harder for roots to grow and for the soil to hold water and nutrients. Compacted soil can also turn hydrophobic, repelling moisture instead of absorbing it. To fix this, gently break up the soil with a hand trowel or garden fork. Aerating the soil improves its structure, making it easier for roots to spread and water to absorb and drain properly. Finally, water the soil thoroughly, giving it time to hydrate fully.

4. Mix in Fresh Worm Castings to Refresh Old Potting Soil

After cleaning out and loosening the soil, it’s time to mix in fresh worm castings. I use in-bed vermicomposting bins, and the harvested castings are free! Worm castings, in particular, are an excellent way to refresh old potting soil. They are rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes that help improve soil health and support plant growth. Learn more about the benefits of worm castings in this blog post. The ideal amount is about 5% worm castings in the soil. You can also add some fresh compost to the spent potting soil.

5. Incorporate Organic Fertilizers to Refresh Old Potting Soil

Add some balanced organic fertilizer to refresh your old potting soil. Used container soil is often devoid of nutrients because they are rinsed out of the soil each time you water. This is the one I like to use, but any balanced organic fertilizer will work. Use the least expensive one you can find. The back of the package should tell you the correct amount to add to your soil.

6. Add New Potting Mix

The final step to refresh old potting soil is to mix in some fresh potting mix. I like to add an equal amount of fresh soil to the old soil. This helps ensure plenty of perlite, coconut coir, or other moisture-holding ingredients essential for container gardening soil. I use the Raised Bed Mix from Arizona Worm Farm in all my raised beds and containers. Learn more in this blog post.

If you are not sure which tools and products are worth it, I put together a list of my favorite garden supplies. From soil amendments to everyday essentials, these are tried-and-true items that help me keep my garden thriving.

7. Fill Containers Back Up

Add the refreshed potting soil to the clean container. Fill the container all the way up with soil. Don’t add fillers like rocks. Containers naturally limit the size of roots, so giving plants access to as much soil as possible is essential.

Additional Container Gardening Resources on My Blog:

• How to Plant Pots, Tips for Container Gardening
• The Pros and Cons of Container Gardening
• Guide to Container Sizes: Which Size Container Should I Use?
• Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Tips for Success
• 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

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The post How to Refresh Old Potting Soil and Save Money appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Learn which cover crops grow well in hot climates when to plant them, and what to do at the end of the season with the tips in this blog post. 

Article Index:

1. Is it better to not plant anything during the summer? No! 
2. Why plant cover crops in hot climate areas? 
3. Which cover crops grow well in hot, dry summers? 
4. Cowpeas (black-eyed peas) as a cover crop in hot climate areas
5. Buckwheat as a heat-tolerant cover crop
6. Sweet potatoes as a heat-tolerant cover crop
7. Tithonia as a cover crop in hot climates
8. When is the best time to plant heat-tolerant cover crops in hot summer areas? 
9. What to do after cutting back cover crops

Is it better not to plant anything during the summer? No! 

Garden soil is full of life we can’t see – fungi, bacteria, protozoa, nematodes, earthworms, and more! Fungi and bacteria feed on the nutrients in the soil emitted by the plant’s roots.

The “soil food web” is missing a key component if nothing is growing. 

After spring crops are harvested and temperatures rise, it may be tempting to leave the ground bare and return when temperatures decline in the fall. However, doing this can have a detrimental effect on your soil. Bare soil will dry out, heat up, and become compacted, and the soil’s life will suffer. 

At the very least, cover your soil with a thick 3-5 inch (7-12 cm) layer of mulch and water just enough to keep the soil from drying out over the summer. 

If you don’t want to garden and want a mostly “hands-off garden” during the hottest months of the year, plant a cover crop instead. Learn more about summer gardening in Arizona in this blog post. Get more tips for surviving a heatwave in this guide.

Why plant cover crops in hot climate areas? 

Cover crops are great for capturing and recycling nutrients in your soil. Leguminous cover crops like cowpeas can even fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, enriching your soil.

Some of the benefits of growing cover crops include: 

• Cover crops can lower soil temperatures by keeping the soil surface shaded. 
• There is less water lost through evaporation from the soil’s surface. 
• Cover crops add organic matter to the soil and feed the microorganisms. 
• Over time, cover crops can improve soil fertility, structure, and moisture capacity. 
• Cover crops attract and support native and beneficial insects and pollinators.
• Summer rainfall will soak into the soil with plants and established root systems rather than running off or eroding the soil. 
• Cover crops often suppress weeds.

Looking for a cool-season cover crop? Try fava beans! For a deep dive into using fava beans as both a delicious harvest and a high-nitrogen green mulch, read my post Growing Fava Beans (Broad Beans).

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Which cover crops grow well in hot, dry summers? 

Luckily, a variety of heat-tolerant cover crops can provide these benefits. Let’s explore a few of the different types. 

1. Cowpeas (black-eyed peas) as a cover crop in hot climate areas

Black-eyed peas are legumes that can withstand high temperatures and enrich the soil through nitrogen fixation. Their deep roots absorb and retain water for growth and are a nutritious food source. Taller vining varieties produce vigorously and are well-suited for cover crops.

How to plant: Direct seed into the garden. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 4-6 inches (2.54 cm deep and 10-15 cm) apart. I plant 8-10 per square foot gardening. Get seeds here.

Time required: About 75 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 2-3 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: When they begin to bloom, cut off at soil level or pull from soil to prevent regrowth. (Remove bean pods if necessary.) Leave plants on top of the soil or cover with compost. Learn more about how to grow cowpeas in this blog post. 

2. Buckwheat as a heat-tolerant cover crop

Buckwheat is a fast grower that goes from seed to bloom in about 30 days. It is often grown as a smother crop to suppress weeds. You can get seeds here. It is less heat-tolerant than some of the other cover crops. Plant buckwheat up until May for best results.

Good to know: Follow buckwheat plantings with transplants rather than seeds because buckwheat is allelopathic and may deter seed germination the following season.¹

How to plant: Scatter seeds about 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Seeds sprout quickly. 

Time required: 30-40 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 1-2 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: Cut back buckwheat during blooming to prevent seed formation and dropping. Cut off at soil level. Leave plants on top of the soil or cover with compost. 

3. Sweet potatoes as a heat-tolerant cover crop

With a long growing season, deep roots, and sprawling vines, sweet potatoes are an easy-to-grow cover crop option that produces edible leaves and tubers (depending on when you harvest them). 

How to plant: Plant sweet potatoes from slips (learn how to make sweet potato slips in this post), spaced 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) apart.

Time required: 90-120 days before cutting back (you can cut back sooner if you don’t want edible tubers). Plant in bed 3-4 weeks after cutting back.

When to cut back: Cut back leaves 2-3 weeks before your desired planting date. After cutting off leaves, dig at the base of the plant and remove any developed tubers (sweet potatoes!), then pile leaves on the soil. Leave plants on top of the soil to break down. You may want to compost the leaves rather than leaving or burying them to prevent unwanted sweet potatoes from growing in your bed. Learn more about how to grow sweet potatoes in this blog post.

4. Tithonia as a cover crop in hot climates

Tithonia is a large plant that produces a significant amount of plant matter. This vegetation decomposes quickly and may improve soil fertility as a chop-and-drop mulch. 

How to plant: Allow 2 feet (0.61 m) between plants. Seeds can take 10-15 days to germinate. Consider starting seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your desired planting date. Tithonia seeds need light to germinate; cover lightly (¼ inch / .6 cm) with soil. Click here for seeds.

Time required: 60-90 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 2-3 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: Cut back before stems become woody and the flowers produce seeds. (Remove seed heads if necessary.) Chop up plant matter and leave it on top of the soil. Learn more about how to grow tithonia in this blog post.

Please note: Tithonia is allelopathic and can inhibit the growth of some plants and seeds. Follow tithonia with transplants. However, studies demonstrate that due to increased soil fertility, using tithonia as a soil amendment may increase the growth rate of some plants.¹

Mahogany Splendor hibiscus is another standout heat-tolerant option with bold burgundy foliage that thrives in full sun. Read more here: How to Grow Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus

When is the best time to plant heat-tolerant cover crops in hot summer areas? 

Begin planting cover crops after spring, and early-summer vegetables finish from about May through June or early July. You may also be able to plant later. Count back from your desired fall planting date to see if there is enough time for the crop to germinate, grow, and die back.

Monitor seed-grown crops and keep the soil moist until the crop germinates. Once crops germinate, give cover crops water as needed throughout the growing season.

These heat-tolerant cover crops are somewhat drought-tolerant, so overwatering is unnecessary. Monitor the crops as they grow, and cut back at the appropriate time. 

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

What to do after cutting back cover crops

See the individual cover crops for the specifics about how and when to cut them back. In most cases, you will cut the cover crop off at the soil level and leave the crop on the surface as mulch. Leave the roots in the ground, as they’ll continue to add organic matter and nutrients to your soil.

The plant matter from your cover crops is an excellent source of organic matter and nutrients for your soil. Instead of removing the cuttings, leave them on the surface of your raised beds. Over time, they will decompose and improve soil structure, water retention, and fertility.

You can also top with a layer of compost or incorporate the crop into the top few inches of soil. Topping with compost can speed up the decomposition process.

Generally, wait at least two weeks before planting the next crop. To plant, move the residue aside and plant your seeds or seedlings. Then, move the residue back around the plant to serve as mulch.

Sources used in this article and further reading:

• Cover Crops: Types, Benefits, And Tips On How To Use
• Cover Cropping to Improve Climate Resilience
• SARE. 2007. Managing Cover Crops Profitably, 3^rd edition. Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education, College Park, MD.
• Buckwheat. August 2002. Hector Valenzuela and Jody Smith, Departments of Tropical Plant and Soil Sciences and Natural Resources and Environmental Management, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Hawaii at Manoa.
• Allelopathic effect of Tithonia diversifolia on the germination, growth, and chlorophyll contents of maize. January 2009. Rebecca Oyerinde, University of the Witwatersrand. O. O. Otusanya, Oghenerobor Akpor, Afe Babalola University.

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I’ve spent the last year building new sunken garden beds in Southern Arizona. I live in the Sonoran Desert, about 25 miles from the Mexico border. This region is very hot from May through October. We do get monsoon rains from July through September, but it is very dry otherwise.

The heat, intense sun, and dry conditions create challenging conditions for gardening. However, it is possible to create a productive garden in the desert. I want to share how I’ve been able to do just that.

To begin, I had a few requirements:

• Water Efficiency: I needed to find a way to use as little water as possible. I didn’t want to spend several hours and hundreds of dollars every month watering this new space.
• Time Efficiency: I needed to find a time-efficient way to maintain my new garden. I work, so a high-maintenance garden was not for me.
• Productivity – I wanted to maximize the space to grow as much as possible. This would allow me to eat fresh, organic produce in season.

That’s a tall order for a little desert garden. I began experimenting to find a way to meet all 3 of those requirements.

History of Basin Beds in the Sonoran Desert

I am fascinated by the relationship between people, plants, and places in the Southwest region.  The Sonoran Desert is the most biodiverse desert on earth, and I love living here. Isn’t it amazing that 3500 species of plants, 500 species of birds, and 1,000 species of bees call this beautiful region home? I’m learning all I can about the history of this place and the people who thrived in such a beautiful yet challenging environment.

I read a book, “Growing Food in a Hotter, Drier Land” (2013), by one of my favorite authors – Gary Nabhan – an ethnobotanist in the Southwest. 

The U.S. Forest Service defines ethnobotany as “the study of how people of a particular culture and region use indigenous (native) plants.” 

Through Gary Nabhan’s book, I began learning about many different gardening methods in arid climates. One of them stood out as a possibility for my garden: basin beds, also known as sunken beds.

What is a sunken garden bed or basin bed?

Basin or sunken garden beds were used by the indigenous peoples in this part of the Southwest. Basin beds function just as any traditional garden bed or raised bed, but are recessed or sunken. 

Sunken beds are dug down several inches, allowing irrigation water to slowly sink in rather than run off and keep soil and roots cooler during hot seasons. 

Since I didn’t have to construct a raised bed, the start-up costs were low. Using a basin-style sunken bed would help me with the water and heat challenges, but what about the time efficiency and productivity piece?

Combining Basin Beds with Square Foot Gardening

I’m sure many of you have heard of the square foot gardening method, introduced in 1981 on a wide scale when Mel Bartholomew published his book, “Square Foot Gardening.” In this book, Bartholomew introduced a straightforward method to save time, effort, and space in gardening. 

Instead of long rows and wide paths between, he focused on using a 4ft by 4 ft square to grow intensively in a small space. Along with the 4×4 design, Bartholomew increased productivity through intercropping, succession planting, and amending the soil. If you haven’t read this book and want to garden in a small space, on a small budget, or with a busy life, I highly recommend it. Learn more about succession planting in this guide.

I combined the two methods, sunken basin beds and square foot gardening, into one hybrid method. Maybe then I could get all the benefits of each.

Sunken Garden Beds Step One: Test Your Soil

An in-ground garden bed will only be as good as its soil, so the first thing I did was take some soil samples. A local lab tested the soil to give me an idea of the soil makeup and which amendments I needed to add. I chose the “Complete Soil Test with Soil Amendment Recommendations” for $85, which included a nutrient analysis of my soil profile and amendment suggestions. 

I started with a very bleak space; not much of anything was growing here, except for wild amaranth and Bermuda grass, so I was surprised when the test results came in a few days later, showing I didn’t need to amend much. 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Two: Remove Unwanted Vegetation and Weeds

My chosen garden area had Bermuda grass that needed removal before installing the new beds. The simplest way to remove vegetation is to use solar energy to do the hard work, something we have plenty of in the Southwest.

Two methods create a greenhouse effect and work well for this task: solarization and occultation. 

Solarization controls unwanted vegetation by covering the area with clear plastic. The 2 – 6 mil thickness plastic allows solar energy to penetrate, heating up the soil and creating a greenhouse effect that smothers the vegetation in as little as 3 weeks. 

Occultation is similar to solarization but uses a black plastic tarp instead of a clear one. This process takes longer as the black material absorbs solar energy and reduces the heat passed to the vegetation. A heavy opaque plastic, called a silage tarp, is used and the process takes 4-6 weeks.

An additional benefit of both solarization and occultation is the reduction of pathogen and nematode populations in the soil below.

I used occultation and laid a thick silage tarp to cook the weeds and seeds underneath for 6 weeks. When I removed the tarp, just like magic, there was nothing but bare earth and some decomposing plant material.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Three: Make a Plan for the Space

I planned just four beds in the beginning. Every gardener knows that plans tend to grow exponentially, and I ended up with twelve beds. For now, let’s focus on those first four beds! 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Four: Dig Out Beds and Add Compost

I measured out and marked an exact 4ft x 4ft square. After digging down 6 inches, I removed that soil. I mixed the native soil with compost in a 50/50 mix and then filled the beds with a little of that mixture. I ended up with a bed recessed by about 4 inches. 

Now, you may be thinking…“wouldn’t doing that remove all the good soil you had tested?” The answer is…not at all! When doing a soil test, you dig down about 6 inches to the root zone, where the plant will be accessing all that goodness. That is still there once I dig out the top, so what I’m doing is adding some amendment in the form of compost to the top while leaving the soil in the root zone intact. 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Five: Create Pathways Between Beds

My backyard is covered in Bermuda grass, and if you’ve ever dealt with it, you know it’s tough to eliminate. I decided to cover the ground with landscape fabric around the garden beds and then layer wood chips to smother and suppress the Bermuda grass. This was after using a silage tarp for occultation before beginning the garden project. That’s how tough it is to get rid of the stuff!

Generally, I don’t like to use landscape fabric. I think it’s best for soil health to cover the ground with a thick layer of untreated wood chips. This keeps weeds in check and adds organic matter to the soil as the wood breaks down. When planning this garden area, I made an exception. 

Sunken Square Garden Beds Step Six: Add a Square Foot Garden Grid and Border

Once the beds were dug and amended, I needed to make a square-foot garden grid. To save time in measuring, I made a template grid that I could use each time I plant a new bed. I used 4ft. green plastic garden stakes, measured and marked 1 ft sections, and fastened them with outdoor-rated zip ties that will withstand the high UV here better. Using a grid template allowed me to plant each square quickly.

I used the tons of rock around my property as a border for all of my garden beds. It’s rustic, but I’m happy with the results. Best of all, it was free! 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Seven: Plant Desert-Adapted Varieties 

The next step was to select varieties of plants that are well-suited to this region of southern Arizona. I start nearly all my plants from seed, but if you don’t want to sow seeds, many great organizations in the area sell arid-adapted seedlings at seasonal plant sales. 

After moving from the Midwest nearly 20 years ago, one of the first gardening lessons I learned was that what grew there probably won’t grow here. Varieties matter, so choose wisely! There are so many varieties that perform well here. Don’t be afraid to explore!

I planted herbs and flowers amongst my vegetables (polyculture style), hoping this would give a habitat to many different pollinators and beneficial insects.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Eight: Add Mulch and Shade 

Next, I added mulch to the top to prevent moisture loss and shade cloth in certain areas.

I use shade cloth when planting new seedlings. The sun here is very intense, and it takes those little seedlings a while to toughen up. Shade cloth is also important to use in certain seasons for established plants. 

Adding Long Basin Beds

Late this summer, I dug a new bed – the garden is never done, remember? This time I wanted to experiment with a long basin bed, rather than a 4×4 square. The new garden bed was 3 feet wide and 28 feet long. 

I am a little (okay, a lot) obsessed with the beauty and variety of dried beans and wanted to grow them. So, I added a new long bed with a cattle panel down the middle. This would allow me to grow pole beans down the center and other crops along the bottom.

I made the most of that space, growing beans, okra, squash, roselle, and zinnias. This bed became a superhighway of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. It was a great success; I’m putting in a second long bed this fall. Because, you guessed it, the garden is never done!

The Result: A Thriving Garden in the Desert 

Overall, I’m so pleased with the results of this gardening season. I’ve happily watched this dusty, bare backyard transform into a space alive with color and the hum of pollinators. I’ve learned a few lessons, of course, that I’ll change next season, but that’s true of any garden. I don’t think a garden is ever truly finished – there is always something new to learn and just one more plant to add. 

Most importantly, I’ve done almost no weeding and only had to water the beds twice a week during the hottest part of the year. As the temperatures cool, I will change the watering schedule to once a week. This winter, I’ll install rainwater harvesting tanks to water the garden, reducing the water I must pay for.

Sunken garden beds are an effective, water-wise, efficient, and affordable option for any space

• Even if you have a small space, one of these sunken square-foot garden beds will allow you to grow a surprising amount of food.
• If you have little money to start a garden, this method can fit any budget.
• If you’re short on time, gardening this way can be done in just a few minutes a day. 

I hope this encourages you that any space, no matter the size, the climate, or the time constraints, can be a place for you to sow your dreams.

Kara Adams is a gardener and writer from the Southwest who is passionate about the interconnection between plants, people, and places. Her love for all things growing has blossomed into a lifelong commitment to the art and science of gardening.

Kara is an advocate for sustainable gardening practices and environmental stewardship. She creates written content and educational videos on Sonoran Desert plants, gardening practices, and soil health. Her topics include organic gardening, pollinator-friendly landscapes, and water-efficient gardening practices.
Follow Kara on her journey through the garden, where her love for it continues to bloom, one word and video at a time. You can follow along with her journey on YouTube and Instagram.

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The more I gardened, however, I wanted to know (not guess!) what was going on in my soil. I first saw the MySoil Test Kits on Instagram and thought they looked simple and inexpensive enough to try soil testing.

I sent my first test kit to MySoil in 2020, and I’ve used it to test my soil ever since. The soil testing process is simple and quick. I get my results back within a few days with recommendations about what my soil needs. 

Now, I test my soil at the beginning of our growing seasons (early spring and fall) and give my soil what it actually needs rather than what I think it needs. 

When to Test Your Soil

We ask a lot of our garden soil. Plants need to sprout, grow, and produce a harvest within a few weeks or months. “A healthy garden starts with healthy soil.” Testing your soil takes the guesswork out of what your soil needs.

Plants may give you signs that nutrient levels are not ideal, including:

• Purple leaves are likely due to a phosphorus deficiency.
• Yellow leaves with green veining may mean a lack of iron.
• Green leaves with yellow centers can mean many things, including a lack of nitrogen.

Good times to test your soil include:

• At the beginning of each season.
• Mid-season to check on nutrient levels before fertilizing.
• If your garden is not performing well.

A soil test will confirm your suspicions and/or give you a clearer picture of what exactly is happening with your soil. Armed with this information, you can successfully treat the “root of the problem,” not just the symptoms.

How to Test Your Soil in 5 Simple Steps

1. Decide how many kits you need and order them

If the same soils are used across your garden with similar management, then you may just need one kit.

If you have different soils (in-ground vs. raised beds, fruit trees, etc.) or different ages of soils (older vs. newer areas), you may need to split each area into its own testing zone. 

For example, my garden has three different sections of raised beds that were added at three different times and a large in-ground area. As such, I use four kits for my garden.

You can order kits through the MySoil website or on Amazon. For more tried-and-true tools and products, explore my favorite garden supplies.

2. Collect and mail the soil sample(s)

Complete the process of collecting samples separately for each testing area. If you are testing more than one area, label the registration form, so you know which test goes with which area. 

• Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box, then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.

• Fill the included scoop (level) with the thoroughly-mixed sample.
• Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule.

• Tighten the lid and put the filled jar in the provided prepaid mailing envelope.
• Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office. 

3. Register your kit(s) and create account

Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test.

Check your email for a notification that your test is ready (mine went to spam, so check spam if you don’t see it within a few days). Sign in to your customer portal and view your report(s) in your dashboard.

4. Review the test results

Each report includes a bar graph with a quick view of your results.

The report shows if any of the nutrients in your soil are either within, below, or above the optimal range. There are results for the soil nutrient availability, pH, and the macro and micronutrients.

The next time you test your soil, you can compare the results to the previous test to see how your soil is improving/changing over time. 

5. Follow the fertilizer, pH, and micronutrient recommendations

In addition to your results, the report will show the recommended actions to take to improve your soil’s nutrient level or pH level. You can see the products they recommend along with application rates.

Plants need several nutrients to grow well​. These nutrients are normally divided into two groups: macronutrients and micronutrients. 

The macronutrients needed by plants are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. 

Some common micronutrients needed by plants are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Micronutrients are just as important as macronutrients, just needed in smaller amounts. 

With your report in hand, you can make informed decisions about which amendments to add and how much to use. It’s best to work recommended products into the soil before planting. 

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Benefits of Mulching your Garden

1. Mulching your garden helps regulate soil temperature

• Hot soil is hard on plants. Mulch keeps the sun off the soil, so the soil stays cooler. Thick mulch helps insulate it even more. 
• Higher soil temperatures slow plant growth, and mulch moderates that temperature. 
• Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation. 
• During cooler temps, mulch also helps insulate the soil. 

Want to save water and create a gorgeous, eco-friendly landscape? Learn why replacing grass lawns with low-water-use groundcovers is a good idea.

2. Mulching your garden helps slow evaporation

A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time! 

3. Mulching adds organic matter to your garden

When you add natural mulch in the form of bark, straw, or compost, they are incorporated into the soil and add nutrients and organic matter.  

4. Mulching your garden helps prevent and control weeds

Mulching blocks the sunlight needed for weeds to germinate and often smothers existing weeds.

Tired of your lawn’s high maintenance and water demands? Consider these low-water-use ground covers as lawn alternatives.

Different Types of Mulch:

Compost

Use homemade, bagged, or bulk compost. Compost is high in nutrients and has a finer texture than other mulching options. 

A note about fresh animal manure; it must be aged before using it as mulch or compost in the garden. 

Where to get it: I make my own and I also love the compost from Arizona Worm Farm. 

Composted mulch

Larger texture than regular compost. It is typically made from landscape waste and isn’t completely broken down yet.

Where to get it: Arizona Worm Farm has this available. They call it mulch or city mulch. I also like the bagged composted mulch from A&P Nursery.

Pine needles

Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles. 

Pine needles may lower the pH of soil when mixed in with the soil. That may not be bad here in the low desert where our soil tends to be more alkaline. Pine needles become more pH neutral as they break down. 

Straw (not hay)

(Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw. 

Where to get it: Shopper’s Supply and other farm supply stores.

Leaves / Leaf mold / Shredded leaves

Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.

Bark / Wood chips

The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds. 

Where to get it: Chipdrop; check with local arborist; Arizona Worm Farm.

Chopped up cover crops / Grass clippings

These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Grow cover crops in beds when they would otherwise be empty. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

Cardboard / Newspaper

Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place. 

Where to get it: Finally, something to do with all of those Amazon boxes! 

Which mulch to use in your garden

Raised and in-ground garden beds:

Smaller-grade organic materials such as compost, composted mulch, shredded leaves, straw, and smaller wood chips are excellent mulch in raised garden beds.

Pathways:

Larger materials last longer in pathways and around raised beds. 

Treewells:

All materials are suitable for around trees, but take care to keep mulch away from the base of the tree. 

Tips for how to use mulch in your garden

• Wait until plants have grown to several inches tall before applying mulch. 
• Keep mulch about an inch away from the stems of plants. 
• Add a little extra organic fertilizer below the mulch when using leaves or bark as they can take nitrogen from the soil as they break down. 
• If you use Garden Grids for watering like I do, put them on top of the mulch. You may have to water a little longer to penetrate the mulch layer. 
• Plan on applying mulch twice a year in the spring after planting (before the heat of summer), and again after fall planting.
• Apply a 2-3 inch layer of most mulches. Less than 2 inches doesn’t give you all the benefits, but a larger layer can be difficult for water to penetrate.

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