Wondering if your garden really needs shade? In Why Add Shade to Your Garden in Summer, I share how shade protects plants, conserves water, and extends your growing season.

1. Create shade in the garden with thoughtful garden design

Notice which areas in your yard receive morning sun and afternoon shade naturally. These spots are prime real estate for any plants, but especially a summer garden. Use these areas in your garden for vegetables that need shade. South or west-facing parts of your yard will probably need added shade.

• Northern Exposure: often shaded especially during the winter when the sun is low. This is the coldest area during a freeze.
• Southern Exposure: Hot, but usually shaded in late summer afternoon.
• Eastern Exposure: Sunny in the morning, but shaded in the afternoon.
• Western Exposure: Shaded in the morning, but full afternoon sun.

2. Create shade in the garden with shade cloth

If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages in shade cloth allows you to customize the light that reaches your garden.

Using a shade cloth is a game-changer for me. It’s an easy, adjustable solution to protect my delicate veggies from scorching sunrays while allowing enough sunlight to grow.

Which color shade cloth should I use?

When choosing a shade cloth for your garden, consider the temperature differences between night and day as well as the average temperature in your area to determine which color is best suited for your needs.

• White shade cloth reflects light & heat and cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden.
• Black shade cloth absorbs heat. Blocks light. Best for cooler climates.
• Aluminet shade cloth reflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night.

If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, I use this one and this one, too.

Which percentage shade cloth should I use?

Shade cloth percentages indicate how much light is blocked, typically ranging from 30-70%. Here’s a guideline for choosing the right percentage:

• North of the 40th parallel (Northern States): If your garden is located in this region, a 30% shade cloth is recommended. This provides enough protection while allowing ample sunlight for your plants’ growth.
• South of the 40th parallel (Southern States): Opt for a 50% shade cloth for gardens in hotter climates. This higher percentage helps keep plants cool and prevents sun damage during intense heat.
• Succulents & other light-sensitive plants: 60-70% shade cloth.

How far away should the shade cloth be from plants?

Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants. 

What is the best way to attach shade cloth?

Attach shade cloth to existing trellises with zip ties or carabiner clips. At the end of the season, removing the clips, rolling up the shade cloth, and storing it away is simple. When the summer heat comes again, re-attach the shade cloth.

Read this blog post for a detailed explanation of how I added shade to my garden.

3. Create shade in the garden with sunflowers

Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety can offer shade to surrounding plants.

The Sundancer Sunflower from Renee’s Garden Seeds is my favorite sunflower for adding shade. It is a branching sunflower with endless blooms and a large plant that blooms all summer.

Plant sunflowers on the west or south side of the garden for shade. Once grown in a garden, they often reseed and pop up year after year. Unwanted volunteers are easy to pull out. 

At the end of the season, cut off the stem at the base of the dirt rather than pulling out the entire root system. The remaining root will decompose and add organic matter to the area. Sunflowers can be planted in the low desert of Arizona from February through August.

4. Create shade in the garden with umbrellas

Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips over and damages surrounding plants. 

5. Create shade in the garden with plants

Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade. 

Low-growing crops like lettuce or spinach benefit from the shade provided by cucumber vines. For more great pairings, check out this post on what to plant with cucumbers.

Heat-loving crops that may provide shade for other plants include roselle, luffa, amaranth, black-eyed peas, Armenian cucumbers, sunflowers, okra, hyacinth beans, and sesame.

Vining vegetables can be grown over artichoke crowns that go dormant during hot summers to protect them from the intense heat that might damage the crowns. Grow heat-loving plants on the south or west-facing trellises that shade other plants. 

Not sure how much sun your veggies need? Check out this guide on Which Vegetables Need Shade (and Which Thrive in Full Sun) to help your garden thrive.

Other ideas for adding shade:

Here are some pictures I took from my previous gardens or other gardens that have added shade. You may get some ideas or inspiration to implement in your own garden.

Source:

Bootstrap Farmer’s Guide to Shadecloth

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I’ve grown Kurapia in my yard and can attest to how quickly and vigorously it grows. Even during the hottest parts of the summer, Kurapia doesn’t seem to mind the intense Arizona heat, making it a reliable choice for desert gardeners.

What is Kurapia?

Kurapia (Lippia nodiflora), a creeping, low-water-use groundcover, has gained popularity as an effective alternative to traditional lawns in Arizona’s hot desert climate. Native to the southern United States and related to plants like lantana, it thrives in heat, requires minimal water, and is non-toxic.

Benefits of Choosing Kurapia

• Low Water Use: Kurapia needs significantly less water than Bermuda grass, making it a sustainable choice for conserving resources.
• Heat Tolerance: Well-adapted to the high temperatures of regions like Phoenix and Tucson, Kurapia can handle intense Arizona summers.
• Minimal Maintenance: Growing just about 3 inches tall, it doesn’t require regular mowing. Occasional mowing is optional if you prefer a manicured look or to minimize flowering.

Read this guide for more reasons to replace grass with water-saving groundcovers.

Kurapia vs. Bermuda Grass

While Bermuda grass is tough and drought-tolerant, Kurapia offers unique advantages:

• Water Efficiency: Kurapia generally uses less water than Bermuda grass and is especially beneficial during prolonged drought.
• Winter Appearance: Bermuda grass goes dormant and turns brown in winter unless overseeded with rye grass, while Kurapia maintains a green appearance year-round in Arizona climates.
• Shade Tolerance: Kurapia tolerates shade better than Bermuda grass, making it suitable for areas that receive less direct sun.

However, it is less tolerant of heavy foot traffic, so it’s not suitable for sports fields or highly trafficked paths. For more ideas for lawn alternatives, read this guide.

How to Switch from Bermuda Grass to Kurapia

Switching to Kurapia requires removing existing grass completely:

1. Remove Bermuda grass: Use solarization to eliminate Bermuda grass. Solarization involves covering the grass with clear plastic to kill it through heat, but it can damage nearby trees or shrubs, so use caution. Learn more about how to remove Bermuda grass in this guide.
2. Prepare the Ground: After removing the grass, ensure the area is bare and free of weeds.
3. Plant Kurapia Plugs: Plant plugs spaced approximately 18 inches apart. Full coverage typically occurs within 3 months.

Varieties of Kurapia

Kurapia is sterile, propagated only from cuttings, and several cultivated varieties are available:

• Pink Kurapia® (‘Ecolopia2’) – distinguished by pink flowers
• ‘New White’
• ‘Campagna Verde’

Each type varies slightly, primarily in flower appearance and growth characteristics. Look for transplants at local nurseries. I purchased my Kurapia starts at Arizona Worm Farm in Phoenix.

Maintenance and Watering Tips

• Minimal Maintenance: It doesn’t require regular mowing. Occasional mowing is optional if you prefer a manicured look or to minimize flowering.
• Watering: During warmer months (above 90°F), water it twice weekly for about 20 minutes per session if using overhead sprinklers. Adjust based on soil type and conditions. I have mine on a drip irrigation, and that works well.
• Cold Sensitivity: Kurapia performs best in Arizona regions with mild winters. It’s hardy down to approximately 13°F but may not survive colder areas like Flagstaff or Payson.

Is Kurapia Right for You?

Kurapia is an excellent option if:

• You’re seeking a visually appealing, low-maintenance, drought-tolerant groundcover.
• You have areas of partial shade unsuitable for Bermuda grass.
• Your lawn does not experience significant foot traffic.

Traditional turfgrass might still be your best choice if an immaculate, flower-free lawn or heavy activity area is important.

See Kurapia in Action

Curious about what it looks like in person? Visit:

• The Japanese Friendship Garden in Phoenix
• Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office

These locations showcase the practical uses and visual appeal in real desert settings.

Reference:
Chamberland, Michael. Kurapia – A Low-Water Use Groundcover and Turfgrass Alternative. College of Agriculture, Life & Environmental Sciences, University of Arizona, December 2024. Link, licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.

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The post Kurapia: A Low-Water Lawn Alternative for Desert Gardens appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

Why Save Water?

1. Collect and Use Rainwater
2. Incorporate Swales and Berms in Your Yard
3. Mulch and Amend the Soil to Save Water in the Desert
4. Water Deeply, Less Often
5. Use Drip Irrigation to Save Water in Your Desert Garden
6. Create Microclimates and Group Plants According to Water Needs
7. Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants for Your Desert Garden
8. Eliminate Unused Grass to Conserve Water
9. Be Thoughtful About Summer Watering to Save Water
10. Water at the Right Time

Why Save Water?

• Environmental Sustainability – Water is scarce in desert regions and often comes from limited groundwater supplies. Reducing water usage contributes to the preservation of natural ecosystems.
• Financial Savings – Conserving water means lower water bills. 
• Resilience to Droughts – Desert climates are prone to droughts. Adopting water-saving techniques ensures that your garden can withstand dry spells.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

10 Water-Saving Tips for Desert Gardening:

1. Collect and Use Rainwater

Strategically place buckets, wagons, and garbage cans where they can collect water during a storm. Open up your compost bins during rainstorms. Be creative and find ways to use rainwater.

“A half an inch of rain will deliver more than a half a gallon per square foot of surface.” (Gardening With Less Water). Take advantage of that water by installing gutters and rain barrels. This water can be used to irrigate your plants. Harvesting rainwater helps your garden become more self-sufficient. Learn more in this blog post.

Consider installing more sophisticated rainwater harvesting systems equipped with pumps and filters to store larger volumes of rainwater for irrigation purposes.

This 1100-gallon rain barrel has an internal pump and filter connected to my drip system. When water is available, I use it to water my garden and yard. Additionally, If you can access flood irrigation, learn more about using irrigation water to water your garden in this blog post.

2. Incorporate Swales and Berms in Your Yard

Direct rainwater with gutters and then create swales (shallow ditches) and berms (mounds of soil) in your landscape to capture rainwater and direct it towards your plants, allowing it to soak into the soil rather than runoff.

Gutters on my house feed into PVC lines that direct rain runoff to various swales within berms in my yard near fruit trees. Rather than running down my driveway, the water seeps deep into the ground near the trees’ roots and encourages deep root growth.

3. Mulch and Amend the Soil to Save Water in the Desert

Apply organic mulch around plants and trees to reduce evaporation, suppress weeds, and retain soil moisture. Adding compost and organic matter enhances soil structure and water retention, improving plant health and reducing water requirements. Learn more about mulching in this blog post and how to compost in this blog post.

4. Water Deeply, Less Often

Watering plants deeply but less frequently encourages deeper root growth as the water penetrates further into the soil. This deep root growth enables plants to access moisture more effectively, reducing their dependence on frequent watering.

5. Use Drip Irrigation to Save Water in Your Desert Garden

Utilize drip irrigation systems with adjustable emitters to deliver water directly to the root zones of plants, minimizing water loss through evaporation and runoff. Plants can absorb more water, reducing overall water usage compared to less efficient methods like sprinklers or hand watering.

I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. (Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any size order.) For more tips on watering raised beds check out this guide.

More Water-Saving Tips for Desert Gardening

6. Create Microclimates and Group Plants According to Water Needs

Plants in microclimates or grouped areas can create a more humid and sheltered environment, which reduces evaporation. This means water stays in the soil longer, benefiting the plants and minimizing the need for frequent watering.

Group plants with similar water requirements together to optimize irrigation efficiency and avoid overwatering. By grouping plants with similar water needs, you can water them appropriately without overwatering or underwatering. This targeted approach ensures that each plant receives the right amount of water, reducing overall water consumption.

7. Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants for Your Desert Garden

Opt for native or drought-resistant plant species that are well-suited to the local climate and require less water once established. For ideas for desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert.

8. Eliminate Unused Grass to Conserve Water

Grass lawns typically require frequent watering to stay green and healthy. Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

By removing unused grass areas and replacing them with drought-tolerant landscaping options such as native plants or low-water-use ground covers, you significantly reduce the water needed for irrigation. Learn more in this blog post.

9. Be Thoughtful About Summer Watering to Save Water

Consider putting small containers away during the summer; they require frequent watering and dry out quickly. Add low-water-use cover crops to beds to cover the soil, reduce evaporation, and keep the soil alive rather than high-water-use plants that may struggle. Use tools like a moisture meter or a soil probe to assess when plants need water, preventing both underwatering and unnecessary watering.

Learn more tips for effective watering strategies during the summer in this blog post.

10. Water at the Right Time

Water your garden in the morning or the evening when temperatures are cooler to reduce evaporation losses. Avoid watering during windy conditions, leading to uneven water distribution and further evaporation. The best time to water is when the plants are most likely to absorb the water, usually in the early morning or late evening.

In conclusion, practicing water conservation in desert gardening isn’t just about saving water—it’s about creating a sustainable and resilient garden that thrives in harmony with its environment. Implementing these water-saving tips for desert gardening reduces your ecological footprint and enhances your garden’s beauty and productivity. Let’s work together to ensure that our gardens flourish while respecting the limited water resources of our desert landscapes.

Remember, every drop counts!

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It might feel like you need “all the things” to start a garden. That’s not true. Start small and start where you are. ⁣My first garden was a 4’x4′ raised bed made from pine boards that Home Depot cut for me. That bed lasted over ten years and grew a huge amount of food.

Starting a garden on a budget does not have to be daunting. Good advice to follow is, “Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can.” Here are ten simple ways to start your garden without breaking the bank:

Article Outline:

1. Start Small
2. Reuse and Recycle
3. Swap Seeds and Plants
4. Make Your Own Compost
5. Choose Perennials
6. Grow from Seeds
7. Water Wisely
8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures
9. Use Natural Pest Control
10. Choose High-Yield Crops
11. Find Ways to Use Your Harvests

Bonus Tip

1. Start Small:

To minimize costs and workload, begin with a small sunken bed or container garden. It’s easier to expand later as your confidence grows. A sunken bed has minimal start-up cost and can be a very effective way to garden. To learn more, read this post about sunken-bed gardening.

2. Reuse and Recycle:

When starting your garden, use items you already have around the house. Old containers, cement blocks, and bathtubs can be used as planters to save money. Think outside the garden box and use the ideas in this blog post about creative container gardening.

Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates is a great place to start if you’re working with a small space or just want an easier setup to manage.

3. Swap Seeds and Plants:

Swap seeds or cuttings with friends, neighbors, or online communities. This way, you can get a variety of plants for free.

• Seed packages often contain more seeds than you will use; split packages with friends.
• Learn how to save seeds so you always have some to share.
• Local libraries often have seed libraries where you can check out seeds for free!

Starting a garden can feel overwhelming. Read this guide to help you avoid new gardeners’ most common mistakes.

4. Make Your Own Compost:

Composting kitchen scraps and yard waste will save money on soil amendments and fertilizers. Although this can be daunting at first, begin composting kitchen scraps with in-bed vermicomposting. If you have a large amount of yard waste, learn how to compost in this blog post.

5. Choose Perennials When Starting Your Garden on a Budget:

Perennials come back year after year, saving you money in the long run. Some of my favorite perennials are asparagus, artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, and strawberries. Learn more about growing perennials in this blog post.

6. Grow from Seeds to Save Money Gardening:

Growing plants from seeds is cheaper than buying seedlings or mature plants. Don’t be intimidated by starting plants from seed. If they have good soil and you start them at the right time, seeds will grow!

7. Water Wisely:

Depending on where you live, water can be an expensive part of gardening. Water in the early morning or late evening to reduce evaporation and save on your water bill. Learn other watering principles in this blog post. Learn how to harvest and channel rainwater here.

Mulch reduces the need for watering and weeding, saving time and money. Places like Chipdrop provide gardeners with free woodchips. Learn more about how to use mulch.

8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures:

Building your own trellises, cages, and supports, instead of buying them, is a simple way to start a garden on a budget. Look around your house or garage and repurpose a ladder or other items. If you want to learn more, read this post about creative vertical gardening ideas.

9. Use Natural Pest Control:

When I started gardening, I thought I needed expensive organic pest control amendments and sprays, such as neem oil. But it turns out that using natural methods like companion planting and adding herbs and flowers to your garden to help control pests is more effective and eliminates the need for expensive products. This will save you money and be better for your garden. Learn more about successful companion planting principles in this blog post.

10. Choose High-Yield Crops When Budget Gardening:

Starting a garden on a budget doesn’t mean you can’t grow delicious food. Grow vegetables that produce a lot of food, like tomatoes, zucchini, and beans. You’ll get large harvests with less expense. Choose crops you enjoy eating so there is less waste. 

11. Find Ways to Use Your harvests

Try growing loofahs and learn how to make your own scrubbers!

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You’ll never need to buy a sponge again—plus, they’re completely sustainable. I love using my loofah sponges for washing dishes or in the shower!

Save on gift-giving by creating thoughtful, homegrown items that friends and family will truly appreciate. Here are some of my favorite ways to use and share my harvest!

• Gifts from the Garden: Homegrown Holiday Ideas
• Holiday Neighbor Gift: Wildflower Seed Packets

Bonus Tip: Learn and Experiment When Starting a Garden on a Budget

The more you learn about gardening, the more you can save. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes.

Remember, gardening doesn’t have to be expensive. A beautiful and productive garden on a budget is possible with creativity and resourcefulness.  Let me know your best money-saving tips in the comments. 

If you are just getting started with gardening, this beginner’s guide is a great place to begin. It pulls together my most helpful resources for new gardeners and walks you through the first steps toward a thriving garden.

Now that you know how to garden on a budget, here are 8 simple tips to help you get your garden started.

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Learn which cover crops grow well in hot climates when to plant them, and what to do at the end of the season with the tips in this blog post. 

Article Index:

1. Is it better to not plant anything during the summer? No! 
2. Why plant cover crops in hot climate areas? 
3. Which cover crops grow well in hot, dry summers? 
4. Cowpeas (black-eyed peas) as a cover crop in hot climate areas
5. Buckwheat as a heat-tolerant cover crop
6. Sweet potatoes as a heat-tolerant cover crop
7. Tithonia as a cover crop in hot climates
8. When is the best time to plant heat-tolerant cover crops in hot summer areas? 
9. What to do after cutting back cover crops

Is it better not to plant anything during the summer? No! 

Garden soil is full of life we can’t see – fungi, bacteria, protozoa, nematodes, earthworms, and more! Fungi and bacteria feed on the nutrients in the soil emitted by the plant’s roots.

The “soil food web” is missing a key component if nothing is growing. 

After spring crops are harvested and temperatures rise, it may be tempting to leave the ground bare and return when temperatures decline in the fall. However, doing this can have a detrimental effect on your soil. Bare soil will dry out, heat up, and become compacted, and the soil’s life will suffer. 

At the very least, cover your soil with a thick 3-5 inch (7-12 cm) layer of mulch and water just enough to keep the soil from drying out over the summer. 

If you don’t want to garden and want a mostly “hands-off garden” during the hottest months of the year, plant a cover crop instead. Learn more about summer gardening in Arizona in this blog post. Get more tips for surviving a heatwave in this guide.

Why plant cover crops in hot climate areas? 

Cover crops are great for capturing and recycling nutrients in your soil. Leguminous cover crops like cowpeas can even fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, enriching your soil.

Some of the benefits of growing cover crops include: 

• Cover crops can lower soil temperatures by keeping the soil surface shaded. 
• There is less water lost through evaporation from the soil’s surface. 
• Cover crops add organic matter to the soil and feed the microorganisms. 
• Over time, cover crops can improve soil fertility, structure, and moisture capacity. 
• Cover crops attract and support native and beneficial insects and pollinators.
• Summer rainfall will soak into the soil with plants and established root systems rather than running off or eroding the soil. 
• Cover crops often suppress weeds.

Looking for a cool-season cover crop? Try fava beans! For a deep dive into using fava beans as both a delicious harvest and a high-nitrogen green mulch, read my post Growing Fava Beans (Broad Beans).

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Which cover crops grow well in hot, dry summers? 

Luckily, a variety of heat-tolerant cover crops can provide these benefits. Let’s explore a few of the different types. 

1. Cowpeas (black-eyed peas) as a cover crop in hot climate areas

Black-eyed peas are legumes that can withstand high temperatures and enrich the soil through nitrogen fixation. Their deep roots absorb and retain water for growth and are a nutritious food source. Taller vining varieties produce vigorously and are well-suited for cover crops.

How to plant: Direct seed into the garden. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 4-6 inches (2.54 cm deep and 10-15 cm) apart. I plant 8-10 per square foot gardening. Get seeds here.

Time required: About 75 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 2-3 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: When they begin to bloom, cut off at soil level or pull from soil to prevent regrowth. (Remove bean pods if necessary.) Leave plants on top of the soil or cover with compost. Learn more about how to grow cowpeas in this blog post. 

2. Buckwheat as a heat-tolerant cover crop

Buckwheat is a fast grower that goes from seed to bloom in about 30 days. It is often grown as a smother crop to suppress weeds. You can get seeds here. It is less heat-tolerant than some of the other cover crops. Plant buckwheat up until May for best results.

Good to know: Follow buckwheat plantings with transplants rather than seeds because buckwheat is allelopathic and may deter seed germination the following season.¹

How to plant: Scatter seeds about 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Seeds sprout quickly. 

Time required: 30-40 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 1-2 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: Cut back buckwheat during blooming to prevent seed formation and dropping. Cut off at soil level. Leave plants on top of the soil or cover with compost. 

3. Sweet potatoes as a heat-tolerant cover crop

With a long growing season, deep roots, and sprawling vines, sweet potatoes are an easy-to-grow cover crop option that produces edible leaves and tubers (depending on when you harvest them). 

How to plant: Plant sweet potatoes from slips (learn how to make sweet potato slips in this post), spaced 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) apart.

Time required: 90-120 days before cutting back (you can cut back sooner if you don’t want edible tubers). Plant in bed 3-4 weeks after cutting back.

When to cut back: Cut back leaves 2-3 weeks before your desired planting date. After cutting off leaves, dig at the base of the plant and remove any developed tubers (sweet potatoes!), then pile leaves on the soil. Leave plants on top of the soil to break down. You may want to compost the leaves rather than leaving or burying them to prevent unwanted sweet potatoes from growing in your bed. Learn more about how to grow sweet potatoes in this blog post.

4. Tithonia as a cover crop in hot climates

Tithonia is a large plant that produces a significant amount of plant matter. This vegetation decomposes quickly and may improve soil fertility as a chop-and-drop mulch. 

How to plant: Allow 2 feet (0.61 m) between plants. Seeds can take 10-15 days to germinate. Consider starting seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your desired planting date. Tithonia seeds need light to germinate; cover lightly (¼ inch / .6 cm) with soil. Click here for seeds.

Time required: 60-90 days before cutting back. Plant in bed 2-3 weeks after cutting back.

When and how to cut back: Cut back before stems become woody and the flowers produce seeds. (Remove seed heads if necessary.) Chop up plant matter and leave it on top of the soil. Learn more about how to grow tithonia in this blog post.

Please note: Tithonia is allelopathic and can inhibit the growth of some plants and seeds. Follow tithonia with transplants. However, studies demonstrate that due to increased soil fertility, using tithonia as a soil amendment may increase the growth rate of some plants.¹

Mahogany Splendor hibiscus is another standout heat-tolerant option with bold burgundy foliage that thrives in full sun. Read more here: How to Grow Mahogany Splendor Hibiscus

When is the best time to plant heat-tolerant cover crops in hot summer areas? 

Begin planting cover crops after spring, and early-summer vegetables finish from about May through June or early July. You may also be able to plant later. Count back from your desired fall planting date to see if there is enough time for the crop to germinate, grow, and die back.

Monitor seed-grown crops and keep the soil moist until the crop germinates. Once crops germinate, give cover crops water as needed throughout the growing season.

These heat-tolerant cover crops are somewhat drought-tolerant, so overwatering is unnecessary. Monitor the crops as they grow, and cut back at the appropriate time. 

Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

What to do after cutting back cover crops

See the individual cover crops for the specifics about how and when to cut them back. In most cases, you will cut the cover crop off at the soil level and leave the crop on the surface as mulch. Leave the roots in the ground, as they’ll continue to add organic matter and nutrients to your soil.

The plant matter from your cover crops is an excellent source of organic matter and nutrients for your soil. Instead of removing the cuttings, leave them on the surface of your raised beds. Over time, they will decompose and improve soil structure, water retention, and fertility.

You can also top with a layer of compost or incorporate the crop into the top few inches of soil. Topping with compost can speed up the decomposition process.

Generally, wait at least two weeks before planting the next crop. To plant, move the residue aside and plant your seeds or seedlings. Then, move the residue back around the plant to serve as mulch.

Sources used in this article and further reading:

• Cover Crops: Types, Benefits, And Tips On How To Use
• Cover Cropping to Improve Climate Resilience
• SARE. 2007. Managing Cover Crops Profitably, 3^rd edition. Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education, College Park, MD.
• Buckwheat. August 2002. Hector Valenzuela and Jody Smith, Departments of Tropical Plant and Soil Sciences and Natural Resources and Environmental Management, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Hawaii at Manoa.
• Allelopathic effect of Tithonia diversifolia on the germination, growth, and chlorophyll contents of maize. January 2009. Rebecca Oyerinde, University of the Witwatersrand. O. O. Otusanya, Oghenerobor Akpor, Afe Babalola University.

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For more ideas on how to water raised beds, check out this guide.

After the initial effort and investment, it is a low-cost solution for watering your garden. Not only does this method avoid the chemicals associated with treated water, but it is also much less expensive for the home gardener. Let’s dive into how to water your garden and yard using flood irrigation.

What is flood irrigation?

Flood irrigation is a system that captures and uses excess water from rainfall or snowmelt and provides a natural, chemical-free water source for your plants.

In the Phoenix Valley, most irrigation water originates from SRP’s 13,000-square-mile watershed. It channels melted snow and rain into the Verde and Salt rivers. SRP then routes the irrigation water to the customer through lakes, dams, canals, and laterals.¹

Homeowners in flood-irrigated areas have access to irrigation runs every 13 days with a dry-up period (for canal repairs) during the winter. The average cost for irrigation water is $6.80 per hour.

According to AMWUA, ”about 22,000 homeowners receive flood irrigation or about 5 percent of SRP lands.”²

My property does not have flood irrigation (I wish it did!), but my neighbor Larry Burnett‘s property does. I’m sharing the method he developed to use flood irrigation to water his garden.

Larry cleared the use of this method for his property with the Roosevelt Water Conservation District. Check with local authorities to ensure you comply with local laws or water regulations. 

What are the benefits of flood-irrigated water? 

Flood irrigation offers a cost-effective, untreated water source rich in nutrients that promotes robust root systems by storing water deeper in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering and saline buildup. This method helps protect vegetation from drought and significantly reduces water evaporation compared to traditional sprinklers.¹

What are the challenges of using flood irrigation to water your garden? 

• Gardens often need watering more often than every 13 days. 
• You need more control over the amount of water than flooding with irrigated water offers. 
• Flood irrigation relies on gravity, so water can’t reach raised beds or other elevated areas. 

How to water your garden and landscape plants with flood irrigation

1. Install a storage tank (or multiple tanks, depending on your water needs) and an internal pump 

Select a tank (or tanks) based on your water needs. Check your water bill to get an idea of your outdoor landscape usage. Choose a location close to your sprinkler system if possible. Tanks should be opaque to prevent algae growth.

Install an internal pump (you’ll need to add electricity) to the tank. The pump will provide the water pressure to the drip lines.

Each tank needs:

• Electrical line (to run the pump)
• City water line
• Sprinkler line
• 2-inch PVC hose connection
• Overflow
• Drain

2. Connect the tank to your sprinkler system and city water

Connect the tank and irrigation water to the existing sprinkler system. The tank then becomes an additional source, along with the city water for the sprinkler system.

Connect the tank to the incoming city water. This allows you to fill the tank with city water if needed. Install a switch on the line to your sprinkler system to enable switching between city water and irrigation water.

3. Fill the tank each time you have irrigation 

When it’s your turn for irrigation, use an external pump to fill the tank.

• Attach the pump’s hose to the irrigation source.
• Run the 2-inch PVC discharge hose from the pump to your water storage tank.
• Attach the hose to your tank.
• Turn on the pump and fill up the tank. 

A pump and 2-inch line allow Larry to fill his tank in 20-30 minutes during his regular irrigation runs.  

Larry also suggests running your sprinklers and drips during the time you have irrigation while you are filling up your tank. This takes full advantage of water coming into your yard during your irrigation slot.

4. Use water from the tank to water your yard and garden

The internal pump provides the water pressure (especially as the tank empties) for the drip lines. It may take some experimentation to figure out the correct water pressure.

Ideally, your water pressure using the tank / or incoming city water is the same. If the pressure is different, your watering times will vary based on which water source you are using.

Adjust your valves as needed so you know how much water you use and how long it takes to water your garden and drip system. 

 5. Switch to city water as needed if the tank empties

If you run out of stored flood irrigation water, switch back to using city water.

Look at ways to lower your water usage or install an additional tank if you run out and use city water between each irrigation cycle.

Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post. 

Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively. 

He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds.

If this post about how to water your garden with flood irrigation was helpful, please share it:

Sources:

1. https://blog.srpnet.com/managing-flood-irrigation/
2. https://www.amwua.org/blog/why-are-we-still-using-flood-irrigation-in-the-desert

Resources:

• Tank-N-Barrell 1750 gallon tank
• Harbor Freight: Predator 6.5 hp, 212cc gasoline engine and 2-inch hose system
• DAB Tanks: Internal pump for the tank – There are various options and capabilities based on individual needs.

The post How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

I’ve spent the last year building new sunken garden beds in Southern Arizona. I live in the Sonoran Desert, about 25 miles from the Mexico border. This region is very hot from May through October. We do get monsoon rains from July through September, but it is very dry otherwise.

The heat, intense sun, and dry conditions create challenging conditions for gardening. However, it is possible to create a productive garden in the desert. I want to share how I’ve been able to do just that.

To begin, I had a few requirements:

• Water Efficiency: I needed to find a way to use as little water as possible. I didn’t want to spend several hours and hundreds of dollars every month watering this new space.
• Time Efficiency: I needed to find a time-efficient way to maintain my new garden. I work, so a high-maintenance garden was not for me.
• Productivity – I wanted to maximize the space to grow as much as possible. This would allow me to eat fresh, organic produce in season.

That’s a tall order for a little desert garden. I began experimenting to find a way to meet all 3 of those requirements.

History of Basin Beds in the Sonoran Desert

I am fascinated by the relationship between people, plants, and places in the Southwest region.  The Sonoran Desert is the most biodiverse desert on earth, and I love living here. Isn’t it amazing that 3500 species of plants, 500 species of birds, and 1,000 species of bees call this beautiful region home? I’m learning all I can about the history of this place and the people who thrived in such a beautiful yet challenging environment.

I read a book, “Growing Food in a Hotter, Drier Land” (2013), by one of my favorite authors – Gary Nabhan – an ethnobotanist in the Southwest. 

The U.S. Forest Service defines ethnobotany as “the study of how people of a particular culture and region use indigenous (native) plants.” 

Through Gary Nabhan’s book, I began learning about many different gardening methods in arid climates. One of them stood out as a possibility for my garden: basin beds, also known as sunken beds.

What is a sunken garden bed or basin bed?

Basin or sunken garden beds were used by the indigenous peoples in this part of the Southwest. Basin beds function just as any traditional garden bed or raised bed, but are recessed or sunken. 

Sunken beds are dug down several inches, allowing irrigation water to slowly sink in rather than run off and keep soil and roots cooler during hot seasons. 

Since I didn’t have to construct a raised bed, the start-up costs were low. Using a basin-style sunken bed would help me with the water and heat challenges, but what about the time efficiency and productivity piece?

Combining Basin Beds with Square Foot Gardening

I’m sure many of you have heard of the square foot gardening method, introduced in 1981 on a wide scale when Mel Bartholomew published his book, “Square Foot Gardening.” In this book, Bartholomew introduced a straightforward method to save time, effort, and space in gardening. 

Instead of long rows and wide paths between, he focused on using a 4ft by 4 ft square to grow intensively in a small space. Along with the 4×4 design, Bartholomew increased productivity through intercropping, succession planting, and amending the soil. If you haven’t read this book and want to garden in a small space, on a small budget, or with a busy life, I highly recommend it. Learn more about succession planting in this guide.

I combined the two methods, sunken basin beds and square foot gardening, into one hybrid method. Maybe then I could get all the benefits of each.

Sunken Garden Beds Step One: Test Your Soil

An in-ground garden bed will only be as good as its soil, so the first thing I did was take some soil samples. A local lab tested the soil to give me an idea of the soil makeup and which amendments I needed to add. I chose the “Complete Soil Test with Soil Amendment Recommendations” for $85, which included a nutrient analysis of my soil profile and amendment suggestions. 

I started with a very bleak space; not much of anything was growing here, except for wild amaranth and Bermuda grass, so I was surprised when the test results came in a few days later, showing I didn’t need to amend much. 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Two: Remove Unwanted Vegetation and Weeds

My chosen garden area had Bermuda grass that needed removal before installing the new beds. The simplest way to remove vegetation is to use solar energy to do the hard work, something we have plenty of in the Southwest.

Two methods create a greenhouse effect and work well for this task: solarization and occultation. 

Solarization controls unwanted vegetation by covering the area with clear plastic. The 2 – 6 mil thickness plastic allows solar energy to penetrate, heating up the soil and creating a greenhouse effect that smothers the vegetation in as little as 3 weeks. 

Occultation is similar to solarization but uses a black plastic tarp instead of a clear one. This process takes longer as the black material absorbs solar energy and reduces the heat passed to the vegetation. A heavy opaque plastic, called a silage tarp, is used and the process takes 4-6 weeks.

An additional benefit of both solarization and occultation is the reduction of pathogen and nematode populations in the soil below.

I used occultation and laid a thick silage tarp to cook the weeds and seeds underneath for 6 weeks. When I removed the tarp, just like magic, there was nothing but bare earth and some decomposing plant material.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Three: Make a Plan for the Space

I planned just four beds in the beginning. Every gardener knows that plans tend to grow exponentially, and I ended up with twelve beds. For now, let’s focus on those first four beds! 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Four: Dig Out Beds and Add Compost

I measured out and marked an exact 4ft x 4ft square. After digging down 6 inches, I removed that soil. I mixed the native soil with compost in a 50/50 mix and then filled the beds with a little of that mixture. I ended up with a bed recessed by about 4 inches. 

Now, you may be thinking…“wouldn’t doing that remove all the good soil you had tested?” The answer is…not at all! When doing a soil test, you dig down about 6 inches to the root zone, where the plant will be accessing all that goodness. That is still there once I dig out the top, so what I’m doing is adding some amendment in the form of compost to the top while leaving the soil in the root zone intact. 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Five: Create Pathways Between Beds

My backyard is covered in Bermuda grass, and if you’ve ever dealt with it, you know it’s tough to eliminate. I decided to cover the ground with landscape fabric around the garden beds and then layer wood chips to smother and suppress the Bermuda grass. This was after using a silage tarp for occultation before beginning the garden project. That’s how tough it is to get rid of the stuff!

Generally, I don’t like to use landscape fabric. I think it’s best for soil health to cover the ground with a thick layer of untreated wood chips. This keeps weeds in check and adds organic matter to the soil as the wood breaks down. When planning this garden area, I made an exception. 

Sunken Square Garden Beds Step Six: Add a Square Foot Garden Grid and Border

Once the beds were dug and amended, I needed to make a square-foot garden grid. To save time in measuring, I made a template grid that I could use each time I plant a new bed. I used 4ft. green plastic garden stakes, measured and marked 1 ft sections, and fastened them with outdoor-rated zip ties that will withstand the high UV here better. Using a grid template allowed me to plant each square quickly.

I used the tons of rock around my property as a border for all of my garden beds. It’s rustic, but I’m happy with the results. Best of all, it was free! 

Sunken Garden Beds Step Seven: Plant Desert-Adapted Varieties 

The next step was to select varieties of plants that are well-suited to this region of southern Arizona. I start nearly all my plants from seed, but if you don’t want to sow seeds, many great organizations in the area sell arid-adapted seedlings at seasonal plant sales. 

After moving from the Midwest nearly 20 years ago, one of the first gardening lessons I learned was that what grew there probably won’t grow here. Varieties matter, so choose wisely! There are so many varieties that perform well here. Don’t be afraid to explore!

I planted herbs and flowers amongst my vegetables (polyculture style), hoping this would give a habitat to many different pollinators and beneficial insects.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Eight: Add Mulch and Shade 

Next, I added mulch to the top to prevent moisture loss and shade cloth in certain areas.

I use shade cloth when planting new seedlings. The sun here is very intense, and it takes those little seedlings a while to toughen up. Shade cloth is also important to use in certain seasons for established plants. 

Adding Long Basin Beds

Late this summer, I dug a new bed – the garden is never done, remember? This time I wanted to experiment with a long basin bed, rather than a 4×4 square. The new garden bed was 3 feet wide and 28 feet long. 

I am a little (okay, a lot) obsessed with the beauty and variety of dried beans and wanted to grow them. So, I added a new long bed with a cattle panel down the middle. This would allow me to grow pole beans down the center and other crops along the bottom.

I made the most of that space, growing beans, okra, squash, roselle, and zinnias. This bed became a superhighway of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. It was a great success; I’m putting in a second long bed this fall. Because, you guessed it, the garden is never done!

The Result: A Thriving Garden in the Desert 

Overall, I’m so pleased with the results of this gardening season. I’ve happily watched this dusty, bare backyard transform into a space alive with color and the hum of pollinators. I’ve learned a few lessons, of course, that I’ll change next season, but that’s true of any garden. I don’t think a garden is ever truly finished – there is always something new to learn and just one more plant to add. 

Most importantly, I’ve done almost no weeding and only had to water the beds twice a week during the hottest part of the year. As the temperatures cool, I will change the watering schedule to once a week. This winter, I’ll install rainwater harvesting tanks to water the garden, reducing the water I must pay for.

Sunken garden beds are an effective, water-wise, efficient, and affordable option for any space

• Even if you have a small space, one of these sunken square-foot garden beds will allow you to grow a surprising amount of food.
• If you have little money to start a garden, this method can fit any budget.
• If you’re short on time, gardening this way can be done in just a few minutes a day. 

I hope this encourages you that any space, no matter the size, the climate, or the time constraints, can be a place for you to sow your dreams.

Kara Adams is a gardener and writer from the Southwest who is passionate about the interconnection between plants, people, and places. Her love for all things growing has blossomed into a lifelong commitment to the art and science of gardening.

Kara is an advocate for sustainable gardening practices and environmental stewardship. She creates written content and educational videos on Sonoran Desert plants, gardening practices, and soil health. Her topics include organic gardening, pollinator-friendly landscapes, and water-efficient gardening practices.
Follow Kara on her journey through the garden, where her love for it continues to bloom, one word and video at a time. You can follow along with her journey on YouTube and Instagram.

If this post about how to garden in sunken basin beds was helpful, please share it:

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As we increasingly feel the impact of a warming climate, the need for sustainable landscaping practices becomes more critical. There may be times and areas where grass is a good option for a landscape. However, if the grass is not being utilized, it might be time to consider replacing unused grass lawns with low-water-use groundcovers.

Defining Low-Water-Use Groundcovers

Low-water-use groundcovers are plants that require minimal irrigation once established. These could include a variety of species, such as clover, succulents, creeping thyme, wildflowers, native perennials, or drought-resistant shrubs. They are especially beneficial in regions such as the desert southwest, where water is scarce or where conservation is a priority. The type of groundcovers to plant will vary, depending on your region.

Now, let’s delve into a few reasons why low-water-use groundcovers make an excellent alternative to traditional grass lawns.

Why Choose Low-Water-Use Groundcovers? The Advantages of Low-Water-Use Groundcovers Over Traditional Grass

1. Water Conservation

Traditional lawns require substantial amounts of water to maintain, especially during the summer in hot climate areas. In contrast, low-water-use groundcovers need less water. By choosing these plants, you can reduce outdoor water use, contributing to overall water conservation efforts.

According to the Arizona Department of Water Resources, “The largest use of potable water in Arizona is for landscaping, and as much as 70 percent of residential water use is outdoors.” Reducing our outdoor water use is a crucial goal to work towards.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

2. Reduced Maintenance

Unlike traditional lawns that require regular mowing, fertilizing, and pest control, groundcovers are generally low-maintenance. If you put the right plant in the right location (sunlight exposure, size, soil type), it will require little maintenance or trimming.

3. Beauty and Enhanced Biodiversity

Groundcovers offer a wide range of textures, colors, and flowering times, providing visual interest throughout the year. Unlike grass, which tends to have a uniform appearance, groundcovers can be selected for their contrasting foliage, vibrant flowers, and unique growth habits.

Groundcovers provide shelter, food, and nesting sites for various wildlife, including birds, butterflies, beneficial insects, and pollinators. By creating a habitat for these creatures, groundcovers contribute to a healthier ecosystem.

4. Stronger and Healthier Trees

The water needs of turf lawns and trees are different. If trees are in grass areas, their roots often stay close to the surface and can compete with the grass for water.

Trees need deep, infrequent watering so that their roots reach down and establish a strong anchor in the soil. This helps them withstand adverse weather and windy conditions better than shallow-rooted trees planted too close to turf areas.

In addition, removing turf from around trees can help protect trees from being damaged by lawnmowers, string trimmers, and herbicides that may be used in grass areas.

5. Soil Improvement and Cooling

Groundcovers can improve soil quality by adding organic matter and preventing soil erosion¹. Additionally, they can help cool the area, reducing the heat island effect common in urban landscapes. Use groundcovers to create attractive living mulches that reduce weed growth by providing a thick mat of vegetation over the ground.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

Conclusion

In our fight to conserve natural resources, each effort matters. Replacing unused grass with low-water-use groundcovers is one such step we can take in our own yards. Not only does this switch save water and reduce maintenance, but it also enhances biodiversity and improves soil health. As you plan your next landscaping project, consider incorporating low-water-use groundcovers.

Remember, the key to successful groundcover landscaping lies in choosing the right plants for your specific region and soil type, grouping plants according to similar water needs, and practicing efficient watering methods. With these tips in mind, you’re on your way to creating a beautiful, sustainable landscape.

Tired of your lawn’s high maintenance and water demands? Consider these low-water-use ground covers as lawn alternatives.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

Footnotes

1. Utah State University Extension ↩

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The post 5 Reasons to Replace Grass With Water-Saving Groundcovers appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

These lawn alternatives aren’t exactly like grass and aren’t meant for high traffic areas. However, they offer many benefits, including cooling the soil, promoting biodiversity, and providing food and shelter for insects and pollinators. Unlike the high-water-use monoculture of grass, these low-water-use groundcovers add color and texture to your landscape while helping you save water.

Let’s dive into these fantastic grass-replacement options:

10 Lawn Alternatives for Hot Climate Areas Like Arizona

1. Gray Ice Plant (Malephora crocea)

The Gray Ice Plant, native to South Africa, is a versatile groundcover that thrives in full sun and can withstand temperatures as low as 20°F (-6.7°C). With very low water needs and a moderate growth rate, it matures at a height of 1 foot (30cm) and spans an impressive width of 6 feet (1.8m) in a trailing form. It’s evergreen with coarse, gray-green foliage.

The plant produces striking orange to red flowers with a yellow center in the spring season. Non-allergenic and thornless, it creates little litter, making it low-maintenance. As a bonus, it also grows well in containers.

2. Tufted Evening Primrose (Oenothera caespitosa)

The Tufted Evening Primrose is a stunning groundcover plant native to the Western U.S. and Mexico. Known for its large, showy-white flowers that fade to pink in spring and fall, this plant adds a touch of elegance to any landscape. Its flowers are not only beautiful but also fragrant, opening from dusk to early morning.

Tufted Evening Primrose grows well in full sun to partial sun conditions and withstands temperatures as low as 10°F (-12.2°C). It requires low to moderate watering, making it a water-efficient choice for your garden. This plant can grow up to 1 foot tall and 2 feet wide (30cm tall and 60 cm wide). It forms a clumping shape, providing good ground coverage.

3. Blue Euphorbia (Euphorbia rigida)

Blue Euphorbia is a Mediterranean groundcover plant that loves full sun and can handle temperatures down to 15°F (about -9°C). A slow to moderate grower, it reaches about 2 feet (60 cm) high and 3 feet (90 cm) wide. Its evergreen, blue-green leaves have a coarse texture.

This grass alternative features green flowers in winter and spring. The sap can irritate the skin. It’s low-litter, thorn-free, rabbit-resistant, and pool-friendly.

4. Damianita (Chrysactinia mexicana)

Damianita is a small shrub that loves the sun and requires little water once established.

This evergreen plant loves full or reflected sun and is hardy to 0°F (-18°C). A slow grower, it tops out at about a foot tall (30cm) and 2 feet wide (60cm).

Expect yellow daisy-like flowers in spring and fall, but the dark green leaves are vibrant throughout the year. Low litter and thorn free, it’s definitely a pool-friendly plant and a good choice for a low-water-use groundcover.

5. Creeping Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys ‘Prostratum’)

A favorite of many people, Creeping Germander is a lawn alternative that loves full sun (8-12 hours/day) and needs moderate water. It’s hardy, handling temperatures down to 0°F (-18°C). Creeping Germander grows to about 1 foot (30cm) high and 3 feet (90cm) wide.

Its evergreen, medium-green leaves stay vibrant all year round, and it’s thorn-free and non-allergenic. You’ll love its pale pink flowers that bloom in winter and spring. Plus, it’s a great poolside pick, thanks to its low litter.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

6. Trailing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis)

Often considered one of the easiest plants to grow, Lantana is perfect for hot, sunny areas. This lawn alternative is drought-tolerant and produces clusters of lavender or white flowers from spring through winter.

Hardy to only 25°F (-3.9°C), you may need to cover it if we have a frost event. Trailing Lantana stands about 1 foot (30cm) tall with a spread of approximately 4 feet (120cm). The sap may irritate the skin; wear gloves when pruning. My favorite part about Lantana is all of the wildlife it attracts. As a bonus, it is also rabbit-resistant.

7. Bush Morning Glory (Convolvulus cneorum)

Bush Morning Glory is a fast-growing groundcover native to Southern Europe. Thriving in full sun or reflected light, it can withstand temperatures as low as 15°F (-9.4°C) and requires very little water. The silvery-gray, medium-textured, evergreen foliage provides a nice contrast to its funnel-shaped white flowers. It forms a mounding shape that can reach 2 feet (60 cm) in height and spread up to 3 feet (90cm) wide.

You’ll notice that pollinators love the showy white flowers. It’s a low-litter plant with no thorns, making it pool-friendly. Plus, it doesn’t cause allergies or skin irritation, making it a great lawn alternative for any landscape.

8. Myoporum (Myoporum parvifolium)

Myoporum is one of my top choices for a low-growing and fast-spreading lawn alternative. It’s evergreen, drought-tolerant, and thrives in full sun to partial shade. Myoporum can handle temperatures as low as 20°F (-6.7°C). It requires low to moderate watering and even grows well in sloping areas.

Reaching a mature height of 1 foot (30cm) and spreading up to 6 feet (180cm), this lawn alternative provides good cover and is an excellent choice for pool areas and containers. Its bright green, medium-textured foliage is evergreen with small white flowers in the spring.

Myoporum is a low-litter plant with no thorns. However, be cautious not to overwater this plant as it may lead to its death (I learned this the hard way!).

9. Trailing Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’)

Trailing Rosemary is a fragrant groundcover that thrives in full sun. It withstands temperatures as low as 15°F (-9.4°C) and requires low amounts of water.

With a moderate growth rate, it grows about 2 feet (60cm) high and 4 feet (120cm) wide. The leaves are evergreen, and you can expect beautiful blue flowers (that the bees love!) in the spring and winter months.

Rosemary is an excellent choice for gardeners looking for an edible, low-water-use groundcover. Learn more about how to grow rosemary in this blog post.

10. Yellow Dot (Sphagneticola trilobata)

Yellow Dot, or Wedelia, is a sun-loving lawn alternative with evergreen leaves and yellow daisy-like flowers in spring and summer. Its moderate water usage makes it a fast spreader, perfect for quickly covering large areas or containers.

Yellow Dot thrives in various lighting conditions, from full sun to shade, and can withstand temperatures as low as 30°F (-1°C). This lawn alternative has a mature height of about 2 feet (60cm) and can spread up to 6 feet (1.8 m), forming a trailing shape.

This low-litter grass alternative has no thorns but is allergenic, and the sap can irritate the skin. It’s pool-friendly and a versatile choice for various landscaping designs. However, keep an eye on its growth as it can become invasive if not managed.

Choosing any of these low-water-use groundcovers creates a more sustainable, water-efficient, and visually-appealing alternative to traditional grass or artificial turf. Learn more about Kurapia, a low-water lawn alternative that grows well in desert climates, in this guide.

If you would like to learn more about the principles of successful desert gardening, my guide, “Desert Gardening: How to Grow Vegetables in a Hot, Dry Climate,” may be helpful.

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on vegetables, herbs, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

Want to save water and create a gorgeous, eco-friendly landscape? Learn why replacing grass lawns with low-water-use groundcovers is a good idea.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

Sources for this article about lawn alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert, A Guide to Growing More Than 200 Low-Water Use Plants, published by Arizona Municipal Water Users Association (check local nurseries for free copies).

Perennials for the Southwest: Plants That Flourish in Arid Gardens by Mary Irish.

If this post about low-water-use groundcovers was helpful, please share it.

The post Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Self-sufficient gardening is developing skills and implementing systems to help your garden thrive with less dependence upon other sources and less influence from outside forces.

A self-sufficient garden means you don’t have to run to the store whenever you need seeds, compost, or fertilizer. Learn more about how to make your garden (and you!) self-sufficient with these 10 tips. 

10 Tips for Having a More Self-Sufficient Garden

These ten tips aren’t in any particular order, but the more of these suggestions you implement, the more self-sufficient your garden will become. 

1. Learn how to save seeds

Saving seeds is not complicated; it is often straightforward. Learn about the crops you are growing and see if it is possible to save seeds from them. Learn the best time to harvest seeds, and store them properly. (This blog post tells you how.) Properly-saved seeds will last for years.

An added advantage to saving seeds is that seeds you save from crops that grow well in your garden are adapted to your garden’s unique growing conditions. 

I go into detail in this blog post and in this video about the specifics of saving seeds, but the bottom line is that YOU CAN LEARN TO DO IT! 

2. Plan and grow your own “seed” crops

When you think of seed saving – think outside the box a little. There are many crops that, if you save bulbs or learn how they propagate, you can grow enough to consume and set aside some to replant the following season. 

For example, save your best cloves of garlic to plant the following season. Because I have two planting windows for potatoes, I can save some of my spring potatoes to plant out in the fall. Save a couple of sweet potatoes and grow slips to plant next spring. This blog post tells you how.

3. Learn how to start from seeds (indoors and out) 

Learning how to grow crops from seeds successfully is a valuable skill. It can require practice and the right equipment if growing indoors. However, the initial outlay in time and money will be well-paid over and over in the number of transplants you don’t have to purchase from the garden center. 

Although prices have gone up, the price of a packet of seeds is usually a few dollars (free if you save your own), and within that seed packet, there are usually dozens of seeds. If stored properly, seeds will last many years and give you more transplants than you probably need.

On the other hand, a six-pack of vegetable transplants (the price for these has also gone up!) is usually considerably more than the price of a package of seeds. 

The added benefit of learning how to start from seed is the wide variety of fruits and vegetables, flowers, and herbs that are now accessible for you to add to your garden. 

4. Learn which perennial crops grow well in your zone and area

Perennials are a sure way to become more self-sufficient in the garden.

Perennial crops come back season after season, with just a little seasonal upkeep or maintenance needed from you. Good examples of perennial crops to consider adding to your garden are asparagus, strawberries, artichokes, rhubarb, perennial kale, Jerusalem artichoke, I’itoi onions, longevity spinach, and peppers. 

5. Plant fruit trees suited to your climate zone

Learn which types of fruit trees grow well in your zone and add them to your garden. Learn how many chill hours your area receives and pick fruit trees that require that number (or less). For example, where I live, citrus grows well and thrives in our native soil, as do varieties of peaches, figs, and pomegranates.  

Fruit trees not only provide an abundance of fruit, but many are deciduous, and their leaves are valuable additions to the soil and compost pile.

Don’t forget other fruits like blackberries, raspberries, grapes, goji berries, etc. Learn what grows well in your area and plant it! 

6. Learn how to propagate plants

Adding perennials can be a substantial investment, but there is another way to add perennials. Learn how to propagate and multiply your existing plants (or others’ plants). There are many methods: 

• Cuttings 
• Division
• Air or ground layering
• Grafting

7. Learn how to compost 

Compost is a mixture of ingredients that would otherwise be in the landfill used to fertilize and improve the soil. Adding compost to your garden at the beginning of each season is the best way to prepare your soil for spring, summer, and fall planting.

Compost:

• Adds organic matter to the soil to improve the texture.
• Fresh compost contains billions of living microorganisms.
• Improves plant health and production.
• Protects plants from certain diseases.
• Helps moderate soil pH. 
• Supports the beneficial microbes already in the soil.  

With so many reasons to add compost, learning how to compost should be high on your list of ways to become more self-sufficient in the garden. 

I compost my garden waste using traditional composting methods and my kitchen scraps using in-bed vermicomposting. I have articles and videos on YouTube about both processes. 

8. Create your own fertilizer for self-sufficient gardening

Feeding your soil with compost is essential, but you may sometimes want added fertilizer boosts. There are a couple of ways you can produce some of your own: 

Chickens or other livestock produce waste that is high in nitrogen that can be added to compost and then fed to your plants.

Grow comfrey. Comfrey leaves are high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and many trace elements. Comfrey leaves decompose into a liquid rather quickly and make an excellent liquid fertilizer.

Gow cover crops. Some cover crops can help increase the nitrogen in the soil or be used as green manure.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

9. Learn how to collect and use rainwater

Collecting and saving rainwater for use in the garden makes sense and was a common practice by our ancestors. 

Benefits of saving rainwater include:

• Water conservation.
• Saves money on utility bills.
• Access to water during a drought.
• Rainwater contains fewer concentrations of dissolved minerals like magnesium and calcium.
• Unlike tap water, rainwater isn’t treated with chlorine, minerals, and salts.

Before collecting rainwater, check your local laws and regulations to make sure it is legal in your area. 

10. Maximize your garden space for self-sufficient gardening

There never seems to be enough room in our gardens (no matter how large they are) to grow everything we want. Using your area efficiently will help you become more self-sufficient in the garden. Methods that maximize garden space include: 

Vertical gardening is better for plants and gives you more room to plant! Read this blog post to learn more.

Extend the seasons with shade, hoop houses, crop covers, etc. Read this blog post to learn more.

Succession planting. Don’t leave empty areas in the garden. When a spot opens up, plant something! Learn more about succession planting in this guide.

Find creative ways to use your garden harvests around the house. Try growing loofah, a plant that not only thrives in the heat but also helps create a more sustainable kitchen with natural scrubbers.

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Benefits of Mulching your Garden

1. Mulching your garden helps regulate soil temperature

• Hot soil is hard on plants. Mulch keeps the sun off the soil, so the soil stays cooler. Thick mulch helps insulate it even more. 
• Higher soil temperatures slow plant growth, and mulch moderates that temperature. 
• Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation. 
• During cooler temps, mulch also helps insulate the soil. 

Want to save water and create a gorgeous, eco-friendly landscape? Learn why replacing grass lawns with low-water-use groundcovers is a good idea.

2. Mulching your garden helps slow evaporation

A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time! 

3. Mulching adds organic matter to your garden

When you add natural mulch in the form of bark, straw, or compost, they are incorporated into the soil and add nutrients and organic matter.  

4. Mulching your garden helps prevent and control weeds

Mulching blocks the sunlight needed for weeds to germinate and often smothers existing weeds.

Tired of your lawn’s high maintenance and water demands? Consider these low-water-use ground covers as lawn alternatives.

Different Types of Mulch:

Compost

Use homemade, bagged, or bulk compost. Compost is high in nutrients and has a finer texture than other mulching options. 

A note about fresh animal manure; it must be aged before using it as mulch or compost in the garden. 

Where to get it: I make my own and I also love the compost from Arizona Worm Farm. 

Composted mulch

Larger texture than regular compost. It is typically made from landscape waste and isn’t completely broken down yet.

Where to get it: Arizona Worm Farm has this available. They call it mulch or city mulch. I also like the bagged composted mulch from A&P Nursery.

Pine needles

Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles. 

Pine needles may lower the pH of soil when mixed in with the soil. That may not be bad here in the low desert where our soil tends to be more alkaline. Pine needles become more pH neutral as they break down. 

Straw (not hay)

(Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw. 

Where to get it: Shopper’s Supply and other farm supply stores.

Leaves / Leaf mold / Shredded leaves

Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.

Bark / Wood chips

The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds. 

Where to get it: Chipdrop; check with local arborist; Arizona Worm Farm.

Chopped up cover crops / Grass clippings

These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Grow cover crops in beds when they would otherwise be empty. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

Read this post for more information about how to remove Bermuda grass without chemicals.

Cardboard / Newspaper

Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place. 

Where to get it: Finally, something to do with all of those Amazon boxes! 

Which mulch to use in your garden

Raised and in-ground garden beds:

Smaller-grade organic materials such as compost, composted mulch, shredded leaves, straw, and smaller wood chips are excellent mulch in raised garden beds.

Pathways:

Larger materials last longer in pathways and around raised beds. 

Treewells:

All materials are suitable for around trees, but take care to keep mulch away from the base of the tree. 

Tips for how to use mulch in your garden

• Wait until plants have grown to several inches tall before applying mulch. 
• Keep mulch about an inch away from the stems of plants. 
• Add a little extra organic fertilizer below the mulch when using leaves or bark as they can take nitrogen from the soil as they break down. 
• If you use Garden Grids for watering like I do, put them on top of the mulch. You may have to water a little longer to penetrate the mulch layer. 
• Plan on applying mulch twice a year in the spring after planting (before the heat of summer), and again after fall planting.
• Apply a 2-3 inch layer of most mulches. Less than 2 inches doesn’t give you all the benefits, but a larger layer can be difficult for water to penetrate.

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