Choose Healthy Tomato Transplants

Start with strong, healthy tomato transplants. Look for plants with vibrant green leaves, a thick, sturdy stem, and no signs of pests or disease. Avoid transplants that are leggy, have yellowing leaves, or are already flowering.

If you started your own tomato plants from seed, be sure to harden them off properly before planting to reduce transplant shock. Learn how to harden off transplants in this blog post.

If you’re planting when temperatures are still hot (like during Arizona’s fall planting window), choose larger transplants with a well-developed rootball. These plants are more resilient in the heat—their roots can reach deeper moisture and are less likely to dry out quickly.

If you’re gardening in Arizona or another hot climate, choosing the right variety is key to success. Some types of tomatoes struggle in extreme heat. Read this guide to find the best tomato varieties for the desert.

Tip: Look for determinate varieties for earlier harvests, or heat-tolerant indeterminate types for longer production during Arizona’s two growing seasons.

Amend the Soil Before Planting Tomatoes

Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so preparing the soil is essential for a healthy, productive plant.
Before planting, top the planting area with a generous layer of worm castings and compost.

If your soil is low in nutrients, apply a balanced organic fertilizer and follow the package directions for application rates. This article explains more about how to prepare your soil for planting.

If you’re planting in raised beds or containers, starting with the right soil is key. Here’s my guide to the best soil mix for raised bed vegetable gardening.

Avoid overloading the soil with nitrogen-rich amendments. Too much nitrogen promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. Choose a balanced fertilizer like 4-4-4 or 5-5-5 when amending soil for tomatoes

Select a Sunny Location

Tomatoes thrive in full sun. Choose a spot that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Sunlight is essential for flowering and fruit production.

If you’re planting monsoon-season tomatoes, pay close attention to the angle of the sun. As fall approaches and days get shorter, areas that were once sunny may become shaded. Even though it’s still hot, plant in your sunniest location to give your tomatoes enough light to keep producing into fall and early winter. You can always provide temporary shade during the hottest part of the day if needed.

Also consider frost pockets. Are there areas in your yard more prone to freezing? Avoid those for fall-planted tomatoes if you hope to extend your harvest.

For spring-planted tomatoes, look for a location that gets strong morning sun and possibly some afternoon shade, especially in hot climates like Arizona.

It’s also important to rotate your tomato planting area each season. Growing tomatoes in the same spot year after year can lead to a buildup of soil-borne pests and diseases.

Tip: In small gardens, consider growing tomatoes in large containers or raised beds that can be moved or adjusted to maximize sunlight and minimize the risk from cold snaps.

Provide Support for Tomatoes

Tomatoes are vining plants that need support to grow well. Without it, branches can break under the weight of the fruit, and foliage that touches the soil is more prone to disease.

Indeterminate tomatoes grow tall and need a strong, tall trellis or cage to stay upright and productive. Determinate varieties like Roma are more compact and often do well with a large tomato cage.

I use the Garden in Minutes Tomato Cages in my garden. They are tall, sturdy, and can be used in raised beds, in-ground gardens, and containers. They fold flat for easy storage and last for years. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off orders over $100, or code ANGELA to save 7% on any order.

Providing support early keeps plants growing upright and makes pruning, harvesting, and checking for pests easier throughout the season. Install supports at the time of planting if possible to avoid damaging roots later.

Give Tomatoes Enough Room to Grow
Space tomato plants about 2 feet (60 cm) apart to give them room to grow and spread. Good spacing improves air circulation, which helps prevent issues like powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.

Crowded plants are more likely to develop problems and are harder to prune, water, and harvest.

Tip: In smaller spaces or container gardens, pruning lower leaves and using vertical supports can help maximize airflow and reduce disease risk even if spacing is tight.

Prepare the Planting Hole

Tomatoes develop roots along their buried stems, so planting deeply helps create a stronger, more resilient plant. The soil should be at least 12 to 18 inches deep (30 to 45 cm) to support deep rooting and stable soil temperatures.

Dig a hole deep enough to bury the stem up to the top few sets of leaves. If your soil isn’t deep enough to plant vertically, lay the plant on its side in a trench and gently bend the top upward. Both methods encourage strong root development.

Plant Tomatoes Deeply

Before planting, remove the lower leaves from the transplant, leaving just the top few sets. Place the plant in the hole so that the stem is buried up to those remaining leaves.

Tomatoes form roots along the buried stem, which helps anchor the plant and improves its access to water and nutrients. Whether planting vertically or laying the stem sideways in a trench, deep planting leads to stronger, healthier plants.

Tip: Gently firm the soil around the base after planting to eliminate air pockets and support the stem.

Fill and Water

After placing the transplant in the hole, fill it with the displaced soil, pressing gently to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly to help the plant settle in and ensure the roots make good contact with the soil.

Tip: In hot climates like Arizona, soil dries out quickly. It’s important to keep the root zone consistently moist while the plant is getting established.

In containers, using an olla can help maintain even moisture. I use GrowOya ollas in my garden. In raised beds, I rely on the Garden in Minutes watering grids for even and efficient watering.

However you water, don’t let new transplants dry out. Monitor them closely for the first couple of weeks. Once you begin to see new growth, that’s a sign the plant is settling in. At that point, shift to deep, less frequent watering to encourage strong, deep root development.

Remove Early Tomato Blossoms and Add Mulch

As tempting as it is to let those first flowers develop, remove any blossoms during the first 2 to 3 weeks after planting. This allows the plant to put its energy into developing strong roots and healthy foliage, setting the stage for better production later in the season.

Once the plant is in and watered, add 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of mulch around the base. Mulch helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce weed growth. Learn more about mulching in this article.

In hot climates, mulching is essential to help your tomato plants survive and thrive. Organic mulches like shredded leaves, straw, or pine needles work well and break down to improve the soil over time.

Monitor Young Plants

Once your tomatoes are planted, don’t walk away. The first few weeks are critical for helping them get established.

Water as needed, especially in hot or windy conditions. Watch for signs of stress like wilted leaves or sunscald, and provide temporary shade if planting during hot weather.

Keep an eye out for pests and disease. Early intervention can prevent bigger problems down the road.

Adjust or add support as the plant grows, and prune any damaged or yellowing lower leaves to improve airflow and reduce disease pressure.

As you begin to see new growth, it’s a good sign your tomato plant is adjusting well. From here, continue with regular deep watering, occasional feeding, and pruning if needed.

Bonus Tip: Add Companion Plants

I love planting marigolds, alyssum, and basil around my tomatoes.

• Alyssum attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies that help keep pests in check.
• Marigolds help deter pests like nematodes and aphids.
• Basil not only grows well alongside tomatoes but may even improve their flavor.

Adding companion plants is a simple way to support pollinators, manage pests naturally, and make your garden more beautiful and productive.

Want to learn more? Read my guide to companion planting.

These steps for planting tomatoes will give your tomato plants the best possible start and hopefully give you basketsful of harvested tomatoes. Read the complete guide to pruning peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants after winter here.

More Tomato Growing Resources on My Blog:

• How to Grow Tomatoes in Arizona – 10 Tips for Growing Tomatoes
• Prevent Blossom End Rot: Tips for Healthy Tomatoes
• Turning Green Tomatoes Red: 4 Ways to Ripen Green Tomatoes
• Tomatoes for the Desert: Best Varieties for Arizona
• How to Revive and Prune Over-Summered Tomatoes in Arizona

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The post How to Plant Tomatoes: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

For in-depth planting details and bulb-specific timing, be sure to check out the full Arizona Bulb Planting Guide: Low Desert Flowering Bulbs

What we will cover in this bulb growing guide:

• What Do I Mean by “Bulbs”?
• Timing Is Everything: Don’t Plant Fall Bulbs Too Soon
• Quick Tips for Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert
• Flowering Bulbs That Grow Well in the Low Desert
• Bed Preparation and Location for Bulbs
• Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert
• Water and Fertilizer
• What to Do After Flowering: End-of-Season Bulb Care
• Can You Grow Tulips in Arizona?
• Final Thoughts and Resources to Learn More

What Do I Mean by “Bulbs”?

In gardening, the term “bulb” is often used as a catch-all for several types of underground storage structures that develop into flowering plants. While they all store energy and are planted similarly, they aren’t all true bulbs. Here’s a breakdown:

• True Bulbs (e.g., tulips, daffodils, hyacinths)
  Made up of layered scales (like an onion) with a central flower bud.
• Corms (e.g., gladiolus, freesia, ranunculus)
  Solid, swollen stem bases that store nutrients. Often replaced annually.
• Rhizomes (e.g., iris, canna lilies)
  Horizontal underground stems that produce roots and shoots at nodes.
• Tubers (e.g., dahlias)
  Thick, underground stems with growth points or “eyes” that sprout new plants.

In this guide, “bulbs” refers to all of these types, since they’re planted and cared for in similar ways in the low desert.

For help deciding what to plant, check out the Ultimate Plant Index. It’s your go-to resource when you’re planning your garden or seeking care tips.

Timing Is Everything: Don’t Plant Fall Bulbs Too Soon

One of the most important things to understand about growing bulbs in the low desert is when to plant them. Most flowering bulbs require a period of cooler soil to develop strong roots before blooming. If planted when it’s too hot, bulbs may rot, dry out, or fail to sprout.

In the low desert, wait to plant fall bulbs until daytime temperatures are consistently below 90°F (32.2°C). For most areas, that means late October or even November, later than you might expect if you’re used to planting bulbs earlier in other climates.

Before planting, read this post on Ordering Bulbs for Fall Planting for recommended varieties and pre-chilling timelines tailored to desert gardeners.

Quick Tips for Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert

• Choose the right varieties. Look for bulbs that can handle our short winters and mild chill hours. Some bulbs, such as tulips and hyacinths, require pre-chilling before planting.
• Pre-chill when needed. Many spring-blooming bulbs benefit from being refrigerated for 6 to 10 weeks before planting. Store in a breathable paper bag, away from fruit (which releases ethylene gas that can damage the bulb).
• Prepare well-draining soil. Bulbs do not like soggy roots. Raised beds or amended garden soil with compost and perlite can help improve drainage. Learn how to improve desert soil in this Soil Guide for Raised Beds and Garden Beds.
• Plant at the correct depth. A general rule is that the depth should be 2–3 times the height of the bulb, but check specific requirements for accuracy.
• Water after planting, then sparingly. Too much water in warm soil can lead to rot. Once cooler weather arrives, regular winter rain and occasional watering are usually sufficient. For more guidance, read my Desert Watering Guide.

Flowering Bulbs That Grow Well in the Low Desert

Here are a few reliable options to try:

• Daffodils – One of the easiest bulbs to grow in the desert.
• Freesia – Fragrant and colorful, perfect for containers.
• Ranunculus – Stunning blooms, easy to grow.
• Iris – Many types do well here, especially bearded varieties.
• Calla Lilies & Cannas – Summer-blooming bulbs that thrive with enough water.
• Rain Lilies – Tolerant of hot, dry summers and rewarding after summer rains.

For planting details, spacing, and care tips, grab my Flower Planting Guide. A helpful reference for growing flowers and bulbs in the low desert.

If you’re planting bulbs seasonally, my Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar is a great tool to stay on track.

Bed Preparation and Location for Bulbs

Proper site selection and bed preparation are crucial to successful bulb growing in the low desert. Taking time to prep well will improve drainage, boost bloom quality, and help bulbs last longer in the soil.

Choosing the Right Location

• Full sun is best for most flowering bulbs during winter months, especially for strong blooming and compact growth. Some varieties tolerate partial shade, but flowering may be delayed.
• Avoid areas with tree or shrub roots, which will compete for water and nutrients.
• Stay away from caliche or hardpan. Bulbs need loose, well-draining soil to thrive.
• Watch for Bermuda grass. If it’s growing in your chosen area, try to eliminate it completely before planting.

Prepping the Bulb Bed

• Add organic matter. Southern Arizona soils benefit from generous amounts of organic amendments. Coarse peat moss or shredded bark improve water retention and provide a slightly acidifying effect that bulbs appreciate.
• Skip fresh manure. It can burn tender bulbs and encourage rot. Use only well-composted manure and apply it at least six weeks before planting.
• Improve drainage. In heavy clay or silt soils, mix in 1–2 inches of sand throughout the bed.
• Add phosphorus. Bulbs respond well to phosphorus for root and flower development. Apply bone meal according to package directions, and work it into the soil below the bulb planting depth.
• Mix amendments deeply. Incorporate all materials several inches below the planting zone so bulbs can access nutrients and benefit from improved soil texture where they’ll actually be growing.
• Flush salts before planting. After preparing the bed, water thoroughly with 3–4 inches of water to leach salts from the soil. Let the bed dry enough to be workable before planting.

Planting Bulbs in the Low Desert

Planting bulbs correctly sets them up for strong roots and beautiful blooms. Here are the key things to keep in mind when planting bulbs in desert gardens:

• Choose the right location. Bulbs need well-draining soil and perform best in full sun to partial shade. In shady areas, flowers may bloom a bit later, helping to extend the bloom season.
• Group by height. Since bulb plants vary in height, group taller varieties toward the back and shorter ones in front for the best display.
• Plant in clusters. Bulbs look more natural and full when planted in clumps, drifts, or groups, rather than in single rows.
• Depth matters. As a general rule, plant bulbs two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall. Check the Bulb Planting Guide for specific depths by variety.
• Pre-chill when necessary. Tulips, hyacinths, and other bulbs that require a cold period will perform better if chilled in the refrigerator (vegetable drawer) for 3–4 weeks before planting in late fall. Keep them away from fruit while chilling.
• Water thoroughly after planting. Soak the soil deeply right after planting to settle the bulbs and ensure moisture reaches the root zone. After that, water sparingly until green growth appears.
• Mulch to protect. Apply a layer of wood chips or other organic mulch to help conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.

Tip: Wait to plant fall bulbs until daytime highs stay below 90°F for the best results.

Water and Fertilizer

Once growth is underway, bulbs don’t need daily watering. In full sun, a deep watering every 7–10 days is usually enough. In shaded areas, you can often extend the interval to every 14–20 days. Be sure to water deeply each time so moisture reaches the entire root zone.

Fertilize bulbs two or three times during the growing season to support healthy growth and strong blooms. Choose an organic fertilizer that’s low in nitrogen—too much nitrogen encourages excess leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Look for a fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium to support blooming and bulb development. This is the one I like to use.

What to Do After Flowering: End-of-Season Bulb Care

Once your bulbs have finished blooming, how you care for them depends on your goals and your garden plans.

• Growing as annuals (like tulips)?
  After flowering, you can remove and compost the bulbs once the blooms fade. These are often treated as one-season plants in the low desert.
• Hoping for naturalization or regrowth?
  Deadhead spent flowers but leave the foliage in place. Let the leaves die back naturally to return energy to the bulb or corm. If they’re in a dry, well-drained area, many types can stay in the soil over summer with minimal water.
• Want to lift and replant next fall?
  Deadhead the blooms and allow the foliage to dry down fully. Once leaves are dry and before triple-digit temperatures arrive, carefully dig up the bulbs or corms. Mature bulbs will have tan to brown outer skins. Trim off dried roots and foliage, and store them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space—never in a sealed bag or airtight container.
• Need to reuse the space for summer flowers?
  Consider lifting the bulbs each spring. Prolonged summer moisture can lead to rot in many varieties. Lifting and storing help protect the bulbs and make room for warm-season planting.

Tip: Some bulbs may need chilling before replanting, especially those that require a cold period to bloom. Experiment in your own garden to see which varieties return reliably and which need extra care.

Can You Grow Tulips in Arizona?

Yes—but only with pre-chilling, and usually as an annual. Refrigerate tulip bulbs for 8–10 weeks, then plant when temperatures are under 90°F (32.2°C). Unfortunately, you can’t expect them to rebloom in our climate.

Learn how to grow tulips in hot climates in this guide.

Arizona bulb growing guide: final thoughts and a source to learn more

Bulbs are a rewarding way to add structure and color to your garden, but timing and temperature make all the difference. Wait until it cools off, choose the right varieties, and plant with care, and your garden will reward you with beautiful blooms in the months ahead.

Source:
Cooperative Extension (Publication No. 0382). Bulbs for Southern Arizona. The University of Arizona, College of Agriculture, Tucson, Arizona 85721.

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Article Outline:

• What is Hardening Off?
• Using Grow Lights for Indoor Seed Starting
• How to Harden Off Seedlings
• How Long Does the Hardening Off Process Take?
• What Should I Do If the Weather Is Unpredictable?
• Signs That You Need to Harden Off Seedlings More Slowly
• When to Leave the Seedlings Outside All Night
• Protecting Seedlings from Pests
• Do I Need to Harden Off Nursery-Grown Purchased Transplants?
• Hardening Off Seedlings in Hot Summer Climates (Monsoon Planting)
• Final Thoughts
• References & Additional Resources

What is Hardening Off?

Hardening off is the process of gradually exposing seedlings to outdoor conditions. As the seedlings experience more sun, wind, and fluctuating temperatures, their cell walls harden and the plant’s cuticle thickens. This thicker cuticle helps protect the plant from moisture loss and damaging UV rays. Once hardened off, seedlings are much more likely to thrive outside.

Did you know?
The cuticle is the plant’s outermost layer, similar to human skin. It primarily acts as a water permeability barrier, helping reduce evaporation and protect the plant from external stressors.

Using Grow Lights for Indoor Seed Starting

Starting seeds under grow lights is a good idea when outdoor conditions are not yet suitable for tender seedlings. Grow lights allow you to control the intensity and duration of light, ensuring seedlings develop strong stems instead of becoming leggy. Get more tips for starting seeds indoors in this guide.

• Height of the Lights: Keep lights 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) above the seedlings. This encourages sturdy growth rather than spindly stems. (This may vary depending on the type of lights you use.)
• Light Duration: Most seedlings need about 12–16 hours of light per day. Using a simple timer can help maintain a consistent schedule.
• Transition to Natural Light: About a week before you begin the hardening off plant process, try gradually shortening the time under grow lights. This subtle shift mimics the reduced light time they’ll get outdoors.

See the tools and supplies I use every day in the garden on my favorite garden supplies page.

How to Harden Off Seedlings

Start 7–10 Days Before Planting

Watering and Fertilizing:

• Before the hardening-off process, gradually reduce how often you water the plants. You don’t want them to dry out, but allowing the top of the soil to dry slightly helps strengthen the roots. Avoid letting them wilt.
• It’s also not recommended to fertilize seedlings before or during hardening off—this prevents tender growth that’s more susceptible to outdoor stressors.

Weaning Off Heat Mats:

If you’ve been using heat mats, begin turning them off or lowering the temperature a few days before you start taking the seedlings outdoors. By the time you’re in the middle of the hardening-off period, the plants should be completely off bottom heat.

Day 1: Place your seedlings outside in a shaded, protected location for 1–2 hours. Seedlings and transplants should avoid direct sun and wind initially. Then, bring them back inside.

Day 2–3: Gradually increase the time outside to 2–3 hours. Keep them in filtered sunlight or morning sun, avoiding intense afternoon rays.

Day 4–6: Extend outdoor time further. Introduce them to a bit more direct sunlight, but watch for signs of stress, such as wilting or leaf burn.

Day 7–10: By the end of 7–10 days, your seedlings should be ready for full sun exposure throughout the day. If they look healthy and strong, they can be transplanted into your garden.

Tip:
Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the hardening off process. Seedlings dry out faster outdoors due to wind and sun, so consistent watering is crucial.

How Long Does the Hardening Off Process Take?

Typically, the process takes between 7–10 days, though it can vary by plant type and environmental conditions. Cold hardy plants (like kale or broccoli) may adapt more quickly than very tender seedlings (like tomatoes or peppers). If you have a cold frame available, you can expedite the transition by placing seedlings in it for a few hours each day before fully exposing them to the elements.

What Should I Do If the Weather Is Unpredictable?

Unpredictable weather is common, especially in spring. Here are some tips:

• Check the Forecast
  • If nighttime temperatures are expected to dip below 45°F (7°C) or if it is very windy, bring the seedlings back inside or cover them.
• Use a Cold Frame or Protective Cover
  • A cold frame or row cover can help buffer temperature swings.
• Hold Off on Transplanting
  • If there’s a risk of late frost or a drastic temperature drop, wait until after the final frost date to set seedlings outdoors. It’s better to delay planting than to risk losing all your hard work to a cold snap.

Signs That You Need to Harden Off Seedlings More Slowly

• Wilting
  • A plant that wilts (not from lack of water) could be under heat or wind stress. Reduce exposure time to intense sunlight or strong winds.
• Burnt or Bleached Leaves
  • Leaf burn or bleaching is a common sign of too much direct sunlight too soon. Return the seedlings to a shadier spot for a day or two, then reintroduce sunlight gradually.

When to Leave the Seedlings Outside All Night

• Warm-Season Crops (e.g., Tomatoes, Peppers)
  • You can leave them out once nighttime temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C). If a sudden cold front hits, bring them back indoors.
• Cool-Season Crops (e.g., Lettuce, Broccoli)
  • If nighttime temperatures stay above 45°F (7°C) and the seedlings have been outdoors all day without stress, they’re typically safe to remain outside overnight.

Protecting Seedlings from Pests

Young seedlings can be vulnerable to birds, slugs, and other pests.

• Physical Barriers
  • Cover seedlings with tulle or netting to keep birds away.
  • Use DIY cloches made from plastic bottles to protect individual seedlings from insects.
• Natural Predators
  • Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs to help control pests. Eliminating pesticides can help keep these beneficials around. Learn more about how to attract beneficial insects in this guide.
• Healthy Transplants
  • Strong, well-hardened seedlings are more resistant to pests. Ensuring they’re healthy before planting reduces the likelihood of major pest damage later.

Do I Need to Harden Off Nursery-Grown Purchased Transplants?

Often, nursery plants are partially hardened off. However, giving them an abbreviated hardening-off period is still a good idea.

• Day 1: Place them in a part-shade area.
• Day 2: Move them to full sun.
• Day 3: Leave them outside overnight (if temperatures are suitable) and plant them the next day.

Hardening Off Seedlings in Hot Summer Climates (Monsoon Planting)

When summer temperatures soar and it’s time for monsoon planting, hardening off seedlings can be especially challenging. Learn more about monsoon planting in this guide. Here are a few tips to help your young plants transition successfully:

1. Provide Extra Shade
   • During this period, protect seedlings from the harsh afternoon sun with shade cloth, a temporary canopy, or by placing them under taller plants or structures. This prevents leaf scorch and reduces water loss. Get more tips for providing shade in this guide.
2. Use Larger Transplants
   • Larger seedlings have more established root systems. A bigger root ball holds moisture longer and reduces the risk of roots drying out quickly in hot, windy conditions.
3. Water Generously but Strategically
   • Increase watering frequency so transplants stay consistently moist (but not waterlogged). Monitor them closely—hot weather can dry the soil faster.
   • Water at the base of the plant early in the morning and again in the evening if needed.
4. Avoid Heatwaves
   • When hardening off plant transplants, try to wait for a break in extreme heat. A severe heatwave can lead to wilting, leaf scorch, or even plant death. Get more tips for heatwave gardening in this guide.
5. Transplant in the Evening
   • Planting in cooler evening temperatures allows seedlings to settle in overnight. This helps them recover from transplant shock before facing the next day’s sun.
6. Monitor and Adjust
   • Keep a close eye on leaves for signs of stress—wilting, scorching, or curling may indicate too much sun or insufficient water.
   • Gradually move the seedlings into areas with more sun as they acclimate, but continue providing afternoon shade until you’re sure they can handle full exposure.

By following these guidelines, you’ll ensure your transplants are well-prepared for hot summer climates and variable monsoon conditions. If you’re ready to transition from seed starting to a fruitful harvest, check out our comprehensive guide on how to grow peppers for even more tips.

Final Thoughts

Learning how to harden off seedlings correctly will give your garden a strong start. Healthy transplants become robust plants that are less susceptible to pests and diseases—and will reward you with bountiful harvests for months to come.

Once your seedlings are hardened off and ready to plant, check out “How to Plant Transplants” for additional tips on planting in your garden.

Feel free to ask if you have any questions about hardening off plant seedlings, timing, or best practices.

Please share this post if you found it helpful!

References & Additional Resources

University of Illinois Extension. (2020, April 6). Starting a Garden: Hardening Indoor Seedlings (Good Growing Blog). https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2020-04-06-starting-garden-hardening-indoor-seedlings

University of Maryland Extension. (n.d.). Hardening Off Vegetable Seedlings in the Home Garden. https://extension.umd.edu/resource/hardening-vegetable-seedlings-home-garden

The post How to Harden Off Seedlings: Complete Guide & Tips appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Article Outline:

• Why should you check your soil temperature before you plant?
• How to Check Your Soil Temperature Before Planting
• Soil Temperature Guidelines for Seed Germination Chart

Why should you check your soil temperature before you plant?

Soil temperature affects biological and chemical processes. Seeds require a specific range of temperatures to trigger the enzymatic activities necessary for germination.

Simply put, if the soil is too cold, seeds stay dormant or rot instead of sprouting. On the other hand, if the soil is too warm, seeds might not germinate or dry out too quickly. Additionally, when soil temperatures are too high, plants can have difficulty taking up water and nutrients.

A soil temperature reading helps increase the chances of successful germination and healthy plant growth. 

How to Check Your Soil Temperature

To measure soil temperature:

1. Use a reliable soil thermometer. This is the one I use. Looking for more reliable tools and products? Check out my favorite garden supplies.
2. Take readings first thing in the morning. It’s essential to check the soil temperature when it’s most stable, typically in the early morning. This timing avoids the peak heat of the day, providing a more accurate measure of the soil temperatures your plants will face most consistently.
3. Insert a soil thermometer into the soil at the depth where the seeds will be planted.
4. Wait for the gauge to settle on a number.
5. Note the temperature while the probe is still in the soil.
6. Measure over several days to get an average temperature if possible.

Once you have your soil temperature, compare it to the guidelines below to determine the best planting time.

Soil Temperature Guidelines for Seed Germination Chart

For the best results, invest in a reliable soil thermometer, monitor soil temperatures regularly, and refer to your local planting guide and this soil temperature guide as you plan your planting season.

References:

California Master Gardener Handbook, 2nd edition, Regents of the University of California, Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Publication 3382 (Table 5.2, page 114).

Colorado State University Extension. “Plant Growth Factors: Temperature“.

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Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.

Food Forest Benefits

A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.

The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.

Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests

Understanding Chill Hours:

To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.

In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range.  If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.

Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.

Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones

When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.

Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests

Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.

Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona

Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (January – March Harvests)

• Navel Orange
• Cara Cara Red Navel
• Minneola Tangelo
• Blood Oranges
• Variegated Pink Eureka Lemon
• Most varieties of Grapefruits
• Valencia Oranges (through May)

Arizona Food Forest Spring Fruits (April – June Harvests)

• Katy Apricot
• Gold Kist Apricot
• Bonanza Miniature Peach
• Earligrande Peach
• Desert Gold Peach
• Tropical Beauty Peach
• Eva’s Pride Peach
• Methley Plum
• Dwarf Mulberry
• White Pakistan Mulberry
• Everbearing Mulberry
• Guava Kilo
• Thai White Guava
• Dwarf Black Mulberry (also fruits in fall)
• Wolfberry (also fruits in fall)
• Anna Apple

Summer Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (July – September Harvests)

• Early Amber Peach
• Mid-Pride Peach
• Donut Peach
• Janice Seedless Kadota Fig – see fig growing guide
• Desert King Fig
• Red Flame Seedless Grape
• Mexican Lime (can fruit all year)
• Biew Kiew Longan
• Banana (also fruits in fall)
• Dorsett Golden Apple
• Flordahome Pear
• Jojoba

Arizona Food Forest Fall Fruits (October – December Harvests)

• Kieffer Pear
• Contorted Jujube
• Li Jujube
• Parfianka Pomegranate
• Wonderful Pomegranate
• Koroneiki Olive
• Manzanillo Olive
• Sugar Cane (also harvested in early winter)
• Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
• Kumquats (through March)
• Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
• Eureka Lemon
• Lisbon Lemon
• Bearss Lime
• Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)

These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.

Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees

Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.

• Prune and thin trees for health and productivity. Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.
• Maintain soil fertility using organic compost and mulches. Learn how to organically feed fruit trees in this post.
• Use organic approaches to pest and disease management to keep your ecosystem balanced.

Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest

When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.

Note:

This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.

Looking for growing advice tailored to specific plants? The Ultimate Plant Index offers detailed, alphabetically organized articles on fruit trees, vegetables, flowers, and more. Perfect for both inspiration and practical planting guidance.

Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey

When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:

• Local Agricultural Extension Office: These folks are a goldmine of knowledge on regional-specific planting.
• Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
• Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
• “Gaia’s Garden“ by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
• “Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth” – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein. A comprehensive guide to creating your own home ecosystem.

Remember, don’t just rely on one source; tap into several to get a well-rounded view.

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If you’re curious about how to create a permaculture food forest, you’ve come to the right place.

What is it? In simple terms, a permaculture food forest is a garden that imitates the structure and function of a natural forest. It contains various plants, including fruits, nuts, herbs, and vegetables. The garden is arranged in layers (like a natural forest), with trees, shrubs, ground cover plants, and vines. These plants coexist, support each other’s growth, and establish a harmonious ecosystem.

A food forest yields a rich variety of food and resources for you and creates a beneficial environment for local wildlife.

10 Practical Tips for Creating a Permaculture Food Forest

1. Gather information about your property

Before you start planting, get to know your property. Observe your surroundings. Notice the natural paths of water, wind, and sunlight throughout the year and their effect on your property. Take notes and try to discover the patterns. Research and try to discover the implications of your observations.

• What are the measurements of the property?
• What are the microclimates?
• Where are the utilities located?
• Which hardscaping elements will stay or be changed?
• What are the known challenges?
• What structures are on the property?
• Where would any planned structures need to be located?
• What is the condition of the soil? Test the soil so that you understand any underlying issues.

Large or complicated properties can be challenging to navigate. Consider hiring an expert. A trained professional may help you avoid costly mistakes. They can evaluate space limitations, drainage, sun exposure, and other factors to ensure your food forest will thrive.

If you do this step on your own, spend time reading permaculture books to familiarize yourself with the key principles. Some of my favorite permaculture books include:

• Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture – Toby Hemenway
• Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein

Permaculture principles applied to small spaces and containers:

• Container Gardening—The Permaculture Way: Sustainably Grow Vegetables and More in Your Small Space – Valéry Tsimba

2. Understand the vision for the property and implement goals to make it happen

Now that you are beginning to understand your property, it’s time to decide what you want to achieve with your food forest. Create a vision statement of what you would like the property to become. This is also a good time to consider the time and resources you wish to devote to the project and ongoing maintenance.

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

• Do you want a wide variety of fruit to eat every day of the year?
• How much of your food would you like to grow?
• Would you like to grow rare or unusual fruit?
• Are animals or other livestock included in your vision?
• What plans for water or energy conservation do you have?

Now, set goals to implement that vision. Consider how to meet the needs of everyone who lives on your property. Include as much detail as possible in your plans. Your goals will determine what, where, and how much you plant.

Write your vision and goals down and keep them in mind as you build your food forest.

3. Evaluate and improve the soil 

You may not be able to implement all the goals and food forest plans at once but begin by improving the soil.

No matter what or when you plant, it needs good soil to grow well. Adding a thick layer of compost and wood chips is a simple way to improve your soil. If you live in a dry climate, begin watering. Adding compost, wood chips, and water makes your soil come alive in preparation for planting.

4. Learn which plants grow best in your climate for each permaculture layer

In a food forest, you’ll have different layers: canopy, low tree level, shrub level, and herbaceous level. Each layer supports various types of plants. Take the time to learn which plants grow best in your climate for each layer and plan your food forest accordingly.

If you live in a mild winter climate, these posts about perennial herbs and other perennial crops may help. For other climates, find local growers or check with your extension office for planting resources.

5. Plan fruit tree guilds in your food forest

Fruit tree guilds are groups of plants that work together to support the fruit tree. Look to existing local plant groupings for guidelines of what is already working well in your climate. Choose resilient plants that offer different benefits to one another.

For example, planting nitrogen-fixing plants can help fertilize the soil and benefit the fruit tree. Other plants may help keep pests away and provide nutrients to the soil or provide leaf litter for mulch.

10 Practical Tips for Creating a Permaculture Food Forest (cont.)

6. Plant suitable varieties for your climate

It is essential to understand chill hours, climate zones, and their impact on what you can grow. If you live in an area with low chill hours, you’ll need to choose trees that don’t require a lot of chill hours. Research the varieties that will do well in your particular climate before planting. If you don’t have enough chill hours for a particular fruit, the tree may grow, but it will not produce fruit.

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

7. Start with trees that are easy to grow

When creating a food forest, knowing which trees will do well with minimal effort in your area is essential. For example, citrus, mulberry, fig, and pomegranate are good choices for beginners if you live in the low desert of Arizona. These trees are easy to grow, hardy, and provide abundant fruit. Growing easy-to-grow trees is a good preparation before tackling tough or finicky plants that are more difficult to grow well. Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.

Need help selecting what to grow? Explore the Ultimate Plant Index for inspiration and growing tips, all in one place.

8. Purchase small trees for planting

While larger trees may seem appealing, smaller trees (1-gallon or 5-gallon) are less expensive, easier to transport and plant, and establish roots quickly. They’re often healthier and will catch up to larger, more costly trees in just a few years. Learn more about how to plant bare-root and container fruit trees in this blog post.

9. Plant canopy trees first in your food forest

The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, and the next best time is today. Canopy trees are the largest in your food forest and form the top layer. They provide shade, shelter, and a habitat for wildlife. Planting canopy trees first helps create the microclimate that allows other plants to survive and thrive. The size of a canopy tree will vary depending on the size of your property.

10. Take pictures and videos of the process

I’ve never regretted taking ‘before’ pictures. I usually regret not taking enough and not taking video footage as well! Documenting the process of creating your food forest will allow you to see how far you’ve come.

Recording the process is also an excellent way to look back and learn from successes and mistakes. As an added bonus, before and after pictures and videos can inspire others when you share your journey.

By following these practical tips, you’ll be on your way to building a thriving permaculture food forest. With a bit of patience and hard work, you’ll enjoy a bountiful harvest. Good luck!

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Article Index:

• Deciduous fruit trees
• Bare root trees
  • Tips for purchasing bare root trees
  • Tips for preparing bare root fruit trees for planting
• Container fruit trees
• Where to plant container and bare root fruit trees
• How to plant container and bare root fruit trees
• Prune newly planted bare root and container fruit trees right away
• Caring for your newly planted tree

Deciduous fruit trees

A deciduous fruit tree is a type of tree that bears fruit and sheds its leaves each year. These woody perennials require a certain amount of chilling hours during winter to ensure proper growth and fruit production. Examples include apple, pear, nectarine, plum, apricot, and peach trees.

If you plant the right trees, having something from your fruit trees to harvest year-round is very possible. This post will help you find ideas about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests.

Bare root trees

Usually offered in the winter, a bare root tree is a dormant tree that isn’t planted in soil but instead usually has some moist packing material around the roots.

Bare root trees are an excellent choice for planting. They are usually the most affordable option, and most nurseries have a good selection of varieties. 

One of the advantages of bare root trees is their ability to establish quickly after planting due to their unconfined root systems. This characteristic allows young trees to thrive and grow rapidly.

The upper fruiting (scion) portion of the tree is grafted onto a rootstock chosen for particular qualities like disease resistance or drought tolerance.

Tips for purchasing bare root trees:

• Always purchase from a reputable local grower and nursery if possible. They should guarantee the tree. You won’t know it’s alive until it “breaks bud”.
• Choose young trees, ideally 1/2″-3/4″ (1-2 cm) trunk diameter; a year old. A thin-trunked tree will recover more quickly from a hard prune (more about that later).
• Purchase the right variety and number of chill hours for your climate.
• It should be dormant with no leaves and a healthy root mass.
• Purchase at the correct bare root planting time for your area. Do not purchase old stock that is past the planting window.

Follow instructions from the grower or nursery for caring for them after purchase. It’s crucial to plant a bare root tree as soon as possible after getting it home from the nursery.

Tips for preparing bare root fruit trees for planting:

• Take it out of the bag, spread the roots out, and let it soak in a bucket of water for up to, but not longer than, overnight.
• Inspect the roots and trim off any broken or rotten roots.
• Trim the ends off all over the root ball and soak in fresh water until you plant.

Container fruit trees

As with bare root fruit trees, select small container-grown trees (1 to 5 gallons [4-19 liters]), but preferably not larger.

Before buying a container fruit tree, ensure the roots are not circling the container. Look for healthy root growth and a tree that does not look too large for the container. 

If it is early in the season and the tree has few leaves, the container tree may be nothing more than a newly-planted bare root tree. If so, remove the tree from the container and shake off the soil. Treat the container tree as a bare root tree. 

Where to plant container and bare root fruit trees

Choose a location with plenty of sunlight. Do not plant in a lawn; this encourages shallow roots rather than nice, deep ones that benefit the tree’s health and longevity. 

How to plant container and bare root fruit trees

1. Dig the hole, but don’t go too deep. The planting hole should be 2-3 times as wide and only as deep as the roots or the container. Plant slightly below the root flare – where the roots begin and the trunk ends, usually a few inches below the graft.
2. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. If it does not drain within several hours, check for caliche or other drainage issues. Ensure good drainage before proceeding to the next step.
3. Bare root: Build a cone of soil in the middle of the planting area. Gently untangle and spread the roots out evenly over the cone of soil.
4. Container: Gently remove the tree from the container. Handle the tree by the root ball, not the trunk. Stand the tree in the hole.
5. Fill the hole with the soil you removed from the hole (do not amend). The top of the root flare should be just above the soil. Do not cover the graft. Grafts should be 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) above the soil line.
6. Water the tree in and gently firm up the soil if needed. Don’t tamp down on the soil.
7. Add a layer of compost on the surface of the soil, several inches away from the trunk.
8. Add a layer of wood chips on top of the compost.
9. Build a berm 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) around the tree to act as a basin that will direct water to the roots. 

You might be surprised about the advice not to amend the soil. A must-read book for fruit tree growers is “Grow a Little Fruit Tree.” In this book, Ann Ralph states, “Roots of plants and trees in unamended soil adust to native soils. Roots that must transition from potting soil to amended soil, then to regular garden soil have a harder time. The bare roots of a tree in native soils experience no such rude awakenings – a good reason to plant bareroot when you have the opportunity.”

Consider spraying the tree and surrounding soil with worm castings tea after planting. Worm castings tea may:

• Reduce transplant shock.
• Improve the families of microbes in the soil, which will add food for the trees.
• Reduce pathogens and soil diseases.
• Provide natural growth hormones (and they tell the plant to protect itself from the inside).
• Give the tree some immediately available nutrients.
• Stimulate root growth.

Prune newly planted bare root and container fruit trees right away

Cut the tree down by ⅔ to 18-24 inches (45-60 cm)(about knee height). Make a clean cut at a 45° angle just above a bud. Ensure there are several buds below the cut and above the graft (where the tree is grafted onto the rootstock).

This aggressive heading cut will benefit your tree for the rest of its life. Quoting Ann Ralph again, “The resulting low-branching, open-center tree will grow to be shorter, stronger, easier to care for, and far more usefully fruitful.” (Grow a Little Fruit Tree)

This advice is for deciduous fruit trees like apples, plums, peaches, and apricots. Do not do a hard prune on pomegranates or citrus trees. Their growth habits are different. Learn more about how and when to prune fruit trees in this guide.

Caring for your newly planted tree

Water in the tree. Don’t let the soil dry out. Check soil moisture and, if needed, water daily for the first 10-14 days. Water to the depth of the root ball.

Pay attention to the newly planted tree to determine how much water to give it. As more leaves develop, the water needs will be higher. As the roots grow, water to a depth of 2-3 feet (60-90 cm).

Once the tree is actively growing, feed the soil around the fruit tree using the worm casting, compost, and mulch method discussed in this blog post to stimulate root growth. Repeat before summer and again in the fall.

Provide shade for the first summer. Do not feed with additional fertilizer (other than the compost and worm castings) for the first year. Remove blossoms and fruit for the first 2 years. And finallly, do not prune again until the following winter.

Get planting dates for your favorite crops with these visual planting guides for bulbs, vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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The first gardening class I attended was about square foot gardening. I soaked it all in and then bought Mel Bartholomew’s “Square Foot Gardening” book. One of the concepts I loved was the simplicity of plant spacing in square foot gardens. 

How do you space plants in square foot gardening

A key factor in being successful with plant spacing in square foot gardening is adding a grid to your garden. Mel Bartholomew said, “If your garden box doesn’t have a grid, it’s not a Square Foot Garden.”  His book also emphasized that the grids be “prominent and permanent”. I have come to see the wisdom in this tip.

Why use grids for plant spacing in square foot gardens?

In the past, I had some garden beds with grids and some without grids. After using both, I can say the ones with grids have several advantages: 

• Garden beds with planting grids utilize space more efficiently by eliminating the need for rows.
• Using a garden grid helps you see exactly where there is space to plant. When I see an empty square, I’m quick to fill it with seeds or plants. In the past, empty spots in beds without grids were often left empty.
• Garden grids help an unorganized gardener (like me) be more organized – I don’t have to worry about straight rows. 

• Following plant-spacing guidelines with garden grids allows for proper spacing between plants. This prevents overcrowding, which causes plants to compete for limited resources of sun, water, and nutrients. 
• Using garden grids in your garden beds allows for a system of polyculture (several compatible plants growing together) as opposed to monoculture (row after row of the same crop) which is better for pest and disease prevention.

Free Square Foot Gardening Downloads

Which type of garden grids should I use for square foot gardening?

Once I realized the benefits of using grids with square foot gardening, I added grids to all of my raised beds. My favorite way to add grids for square foot gardening is with the Garden Grid™ from Garden In Minutes.

The benefits of using the Garden Grid™ from Garden In Minutes include:

• The grids are prominent and easy to see. 
• Assembly is simple; the garden grids come in preassembled sections that press together by hand in seconds.
• At the end of each season, it’s easy to lift the grid off of the bed to add compost to fill the beds. With my previous grids made of wood, it was difficult to add compost because the grids were screwed into the beds. 
• Each square is watered evenly with 16 water streams, which helps seed germination.

How do I know how many seeds or plants to put in each square?

Now for the fun part – adding plants to your square foot garden. To calculate how many plants or seeds to plant per square, look at the back of your seed packet. Ignore the space between rows, but pay attention to how much space is needed between plants.

For example:

3″ plant spacing = plant 16 in each square.

4″ plant spacing = plant 9 in each square.

6″ plant spacing = plant 4 in each square.

12″ plant spacing = plant 1 in each square.

Some plants (such as melons, large squash, and tomatoes) require more than one square.

Wondering how to space corn, beans, and squash in a small garden? I share the exact layout I used in this Three Sisters garden in raised beds using square-foot gardening principles.

Use this tool to space seeds perfectly in your square foot garden. 

Why is plant spacing important in square foot gardens?

Follow the plant-spacing guidelines. Planting the recommended amounts allows you to utilize all the space in the beds without overcrowding. Proper spacing ensures adequate airflow for plants.  

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8 Tips for How to Plant Seeds Outside

1. Select the best seeds to grow in your garden

When selecting seeds: 

• Choose high-quality seeds from reputable seed companies. A few of my favorite seed companies are Botanical Interests, Renee’s Garden Seeds, Seeds Now, Baker Creek Seeds, and Native Seeds Search.
• Look for seed varieties that are adapted to your location. 
• Choose disease-resistant varieties if you have had issues with a disease in the past.

To plant with confidence, explore my favorite seeds, a collection of varieties I trust in my own garden.

2.  Plant seeds at the right time

Seeds require correct temperature, moisture, air, and light requirements in order to germinate.

Plant seeds at the right time and soil temperature for the best germination rate and healthy seedlings. I use this soil thermometer to measure the soil temperature before planting.

Use your local planting guide (this post will help you find one) and soil temperature (check it with a soil thermometer) to determine the best time to plant.

Seeds germinate best at optimal temperatures. Use this chart from Penn State Extension for basic soil temperature guidelines of when to plant.

• = Does best when started indoors and planted as a transplant in the garden.

3. Prepare the soil before planting seeds

A plant will reflect the quality of the soil. I use this soil mixture in all of my beds. Add compost to your garden beds each season. Have your soil tested regularly, and amend the soil as needed to adjust the pH or nutrient levels.

For seeds to germinate, the soil should be moist and fluffy. Compacted soil does not have the air necessary for germination. Use a sprinkler attachment to moisten the soil before planting seeds. 

Learn other ways to become a self-sufficient gardener in this article.

4. Plant seeds at the correct depth

As a general rule, plant seeds two times as deep as they are wide (not tall). Seeds may require light to germinate and should not be planted deeply but only lightly covered with soil. Follow seed packet directions for exact depth requirements. 

Planting all of the seeds (of the same type) at equal depths will ensure more even germination. Use a dibber to measure how deep to plant each seed. 

How to plant a seed:

• Pull back mulch (if using).
• Make an indentation with a dibber in the soil.
• Place seed in soil indentation.
• Lightly cover with soil.
• After planting, firm the soil a bit with your hand to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. 
• Replace mulch during hot weather to keep the soil moist.

5. Follow plant spacing guidelines to give seeds enough room

Although seeds look small when you plant them, most will grow into large plants. It is important to give seeds enough room to grow. Overcrowded plants are more prone to pests and disease and must compete with each other for adequate light, air, moisture, and nutrients.

The back of the seed packet provides information about how far apart to plant the seeds. Follow the guidelines when you plant your seeds. 

An overview of different methods for the spacing of seeds in vegetable gardens:  

Square foot gardening – A certain number of seeds (depending on the plant) are planted in each square. To learn more about square foot gardening, read this post.

Row planting – Typical planting method. Plants are spaced within the row and then rows are spaced a certain distance apart. See seed packet for distances. Use string between two stakes to mark your row and plant seeds at the correct depth and spacing. 

Bed planting – Intensive planting method for some leafy greens and root crops. Seeds are spread evenly or broadcast over the planting area.  

Hill planting – Method that helps warm the soil in early spring. Mound soil for each foot to about 1 foot wide. Used for larger vegetables like melons, squash, and corn. Follow hill spacing and planting guidelines on seed packets.

6. Do not let newly-planted seeds dry out

• Plant seeds in moist soil and lightly water them after planting to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.
• Once planted, seeds begin taking up moisture from the surrounding soil. The newly-planted seed expands with the added moisture and opens. 
• The root emerges first and begins absorbing moisture and growing, anchoring the plant into the soil. The shoot emerges next and begins its journey up through the soil. This newly-emerged plant is called a seedling. 
• As the seed opens and begins to grow, adequate moisture is critical. Once the seed opens up, if a seed dries out, it will stop growing and die.
• Frequent, light applications of water are best at this stage of development. Strong streams of water may disturb seedlings and disrupt the soil. 
• Keep newly-emerged seedlings moist, gradually lengthening the time between waterings as the roots deepen and grow. 

7. Protect newly-planted seeds and seedlings from birds and frost

Use barrier methods such as tulle or cloches to prevent birds from eating planted seeds or damaging seedlings. Young seedlings are also tempting to in-ground pests like rollie-pollies. Use the tips in this blog post to help prevent pest damage. 

Pay attention to the weather and be prepared to cover newly-planted seedlings with frost cloth, cloches, or row covers if temperatures fall below freezing. 

8. Thin seeds when true leaves appear

Thinning is a term that describes removing the extra sprouted seeds that were planted too closely together. Thin seedlings by removing the extra seedlings until the plants are at the desired spacing. 

The best time to thin seedlings is usually after the first set of “true leaves appears”.

The first leaves to emerge are the cotyledons or “seed leaves”. True leaves emerge next, and they unfurl above the seed leaves and look like smaller versions of the adult leaves.

How to thin seedlings: 

• Select the strongest seedling. Strong seedlings are compact with short (not leggy stems).
• Use small clean snips and cut the weaker seedlings off at dirt level. Do not pull out seedlings. Pulling may disrupt the roots of the seedlings you are leaving in place. 
• With some crops like carrots, you may want to do an initial thinning and then come back in and do a second thinning once the plants get a little bit larger. 

Once you understand these guidelines for how to plant seeds outside, don’t be afraid to begin planting seeds in your garden. Do you still have questions about how to plant seeds outside? Ask me in the comments. 

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7 Tips for How to Plant Transplants

1. Choose the best transplants

When selecting transplants to put in your garden, look for transplants that are:

• Healthy and green.
• Free from pests and disease. Signs of disease might include yellow or discolored leaves.
• Tight and compact stems; stocky plants.
• Healthy roots.
• The right size for the container; not too big.

What to avoid:

• Plants too large for the container (bigger does not mean better!).
• Roots that are growing out of the bottom of the container.
• Vegetables or fruits that have already blossomed.
• Stretched out tall or leggy plants.

How to deal with root-bound plants:

• Loosen coiled roots. Using your hands, gently tease the roots apart. Trim back any extra-long roots before planting.
• If the roots won’t loosen, spray the soil away with water first and then uncoil the roots.
• If the roots still won’t untangle. Make several vertical slits in the root ball with a knife to stimulate the growth of new roots before planting.

2. Harden off transplants

If you purchased transplants from a nursery, they might be ready to plant. Set newly purchased transplants in dappled shade for a day before planting to ensure they are hardened off.

If you grow your seedlings, begin hardening off seedlings a week or two before planting. 

• Put seedlings outside in a protected and shady location. Start with an hour or two, gradually working up to several hours. 
• After several days, allow them to be in the sun for part of the day. 
• Bring them back indoors the first few nights if temperatures are cold. 
• Protect transplants from birds with netting or tulle if necessary.
• During this process, keep the transplants well watered.

3. Plant on a shady day or at the best time of day for your season

Plant transplants on a shady day, late afternoon, or early evening.  

For spring planting, plant transplants in the morning so they have the entire day to adjust before the cooler temperatures at night. 

For fall and monsoon planting, plant transplants in the early evening, so they have the cooler temperatures of nighttime to adjust before the day’s heat.

4. Prepare the soil before planting transplants

A plant in your garden will reflect the quality of the soil. Focus on adding organic matter at the beginning of each season. Test your soil pH and make adjustments if the soil is too alkaline or acidic. Add fertilizer based on recommendations from a soil test.

5. Follow the steps for how to plant transplants correctly

Follow these steps for how to plant transplants for the best chance of successful transplants.

• Water the plants several hours (if possible) before transplanting.
• Check the soil moisture of the planting area; it should be moist but not too wet. 
• Dig a planting hole as deep as the plant’s root ball and a little wider. 
• Gently remove the plant from its container by tipping it over into your hand. Gently tap the bottom of the pot to encourage the seedling out. Handle transplants carefully; handle transplants by the leaves rather than the stem.
• Inspect the roots. Gently loosen the roots, mainly if they are concentrated at the bottom of the plant with no visible soil. 
• Put the transplant in the hole at ground level or a little higher to allow for settling. (An exception is tomatoes, which you plant deeper.)
• Fill in the remainder of the hole with soil, and press the ground firmly but gently. Firming the soil encourages good contact between the transplant’s roots and the soil. Do not compact the soil or the roots. 
• Gently soak the soil after planting to eliminate air pockets and help the roots settle in. 
• Spread mulch around the transplant, keeping it an inch or two away from the stem.

6. Keep transplants well-watered

New transplants will need more frequent watering than those in the ground longer. Careful attention to watering helps the plants transition well and begin to grow. Do not let the soil dry out. 

Water the plants once a day the first week after planting. Reduce watering to every other day the second week. Pay attention to your plant, the soil, and weather conditions, and water as needed.

7. Protect new transplants if necessary

You may need to provide additional protection for new seedlings. 

• When temperatures are hot, you may want to provide additional shade during the hottest times of day for several days while the plant gets established. 
• If windy conditions are present, seedlings will dry out more quickly. Protect seedlings with floating row cover or water more frequently. 
• Young transplants may need protection from birds or other pests. Barrier methods are usually effective.

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What We Will Cover:

• Evaluate your garden to determine how much sunlight it receives
• Know how much sun different types of plants need
• Maximize the available sunlight your garden receives to grow vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade
• Anticipate the challenges of growing vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade
• Plant the right type of vegetables, herbs, and flowers for the amount of sunlight your garden receives

1. Evaluate your garden to determine how much sunlight it receives

One of the most important principles for gardening success is sunlight. Understanding the different terms related to the amount of sunlight an area receives is important. 

The sun’s angle changes throughout the year. Evaluate your garden at different times of day throughout the year (spring, summer, fall, winter) to understand how much light your garden receives.  Consider the height of surrounding trees, buildings, and other obstructions as they can limit the amount of light that reaches your garden. Use an app or program to map out the sun’s route and learn exactly when your garden gets direct sunlight, partial shade, and full shade. This will help you determine what plants are best suited for your garden.

• Full Sun: 6–8 hours (or more) of direct sunlight daily.
• Partial Sun: 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Partial Shade: 3-4 hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Full Shade: Less than 3 hours of direct sun.
• Deep Shade: No sun at all.

Vegetables, herbs, and flowers may not grow if your garden receives less than 3 hours of sun.

2. Know how much sun different types of plants need

Although some plants need very little sun, plants grown for food usually need plenty of sunlight. Some types of vegetables, herbs, and flowers will tolerate some shade more than others, but all need sun. Most plants do best with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. For example:

• Flowering plants need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight.
• Plants grown for edible roots need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight.
• Plants grown for edible leaves need at least 3 hours of direct sunlight.
  

3. Maximize the available sunlight your garden receives to grow vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade

Leave more space between plants. Plants too close to each other will shade one another. 

• Use containers or grow bags to move the garden where the sunlight is.
• Anticipate areas that will receive more sun as trees lose their leaves.
• Grow plants vertically. Typically place vertical supports on the north side of your garden to prevent shading of other plants. 

Be aware of micro-climates in your garden and areas that receive more/less sun, and plant accordingly.

4. Anticipate the challenges of growing vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the shade

• Take care not to overwater. Plants grown in areas that receive less sun will need less water. 
• Be patient if your vegetables, herbs, or flowers take longer than the “days to harvest” number on the seed packet. Plants grown in less than ideal sunlight conditions will take longer to develop. 
• Understand that vegetables, herbs, and flowers grown with less sun may be smaller than their full-sun counterparts.  
• Some herbs and veggies may get “leggy” as they reach for the sun; harvest more often to keep plants compact.
• Do not over-fertilize. Plants require less fertilization when grown in the shade. 
• Be on the lookout for pests. Pests are drawn to plants that are grown in less-than-ideal conditions. Daily vigilance and early detection are the best defenses against pests. Read this post for organic pest control options.

5. Plant the right type of vegetables, herbs, and flowers for the amount of sunlight your garden receives

Vegetables that tolerate partial sun (4-6 hours of direct sunlight) include broccoli, peas, celery, beans, onions, cauliflower, cabbage, leeks, asparagus, and scallions.

Vegetables that tolerate partial shade (3-4 hours of direct sunlight) include arugula, bok choy, Brussels sprouts, kale, beets, kohlrabi, parsnip, carrots, turnip, radish, lettuce, spinach, mustard greens, and chard.

Many herbs tolerate partial shade, including chervil, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, chives, thyme, ginger,  lemon verbena, parsley, mint, bay, oregano, sage, and turmeric.

Many flowers tolerate partial shade including nasturtium, sweet peas, lobelia, larkspur, foxglove, impatiens, begonia, calendula, fuchsia, forget-me-not, violet, and alyssum.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Do you have other ideas for herbs or vegetables that grow in shade? Let me know in the comments.

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This article covers the benefits of companion planting and provides practical suggestions for implementing companion planting principles in your home garden. 

Adding a wide variety of herbs, flowers, vegetables, and fruit to your garden will benefit it more than any specific companion plant combination.

Some of the benefits of successful companion planting include:

• Fewer pests 
• Increased beneficial insects and pollinators
• Wider diversity and beauty in garden plantings
• Increased health and productivity of plants

5 Tips for Successful Companion Planting

1. Understand what not to plant next to each other

Some plants have different light and water requirements and should not be planted next to each other.

Some plants share common pests or diseases and should not be planted near each other if possible. Luckily, there are just a few to be aware of, such as: 

• Keep corn away from tomatoes; they share a common pest (corn ear-worms).
• Do not plant potatoes near tomatoes; it may spread blight. 
• Separate members of similar crop families if possible.

2. Implement polyculture practices in your garden

Monoculture:  A single type of plant in each bed or plot of land. A monoculture makes it much easier for pests to find their intended crop. 

Polyculture:  A variety of plants in each bed or plot of land.

Adding a wide variety of herbs, flowers, vegetables, and fruit to your garden will benefit it more than any specific companion plant combination. Diversity in plantings attracts a broader assortment of beneficial insects and pollinators. Provide food and shelter within your garden for those pollinators and beneficial insects. 

Discover more about creating a pollinator-friendly garden in my post, Perennials for Pollinators in Your Desert Garden, where I share tips on supporting local wildlife and promoting a healthy garden ecosystem.

I began my gardening journey using square foot gardening methods. This is the method I continue to practice today. One reason this method is successful is the natural polyculture that results from interplanting several different types of fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers within the same bed. 

If you’re planning your garden layout, don’t miss this guide on cucumber companion plants—you’ll find tips on pairing cucumbers with flowers, herbs, and vegetables to improve growth and reduce pests.

How to implement polyculture practices: 

• Learn how different crops grow so that you can plant different crops with similar light and water requirements near each other.
• Don’t be afraid to plant a variety of different vegetables, herbs, and flowers in each bed.
• When a spot (or square) opens up in your garden, fill it.  
• Add perennial herbs to your garden beds.
• Resist the urge to plant all of one type of vegetable in one location. For example, If you’re planting several types of peppers, add them to different areas around your garden. 
• Try planting different varieties of the same crop (squash, beans, tomatoes, etc.) in various parts of the garden.
• Interplant crops with different timing. For example, as cool-season crops come to an end, add warm-season crops. Once the cool-season crops are harvested, the warm-season crops will be ready for the extra room.
• Learn which beneficial insect and pollinator-friendly flowers and herbs grow well from seed, and plant flower or herb seeds in each garden bed at planting time.
• For more companion plants for warm-season gardens read this guide.
• For a creative way to combine companion planting with small-space gardening learn how to grow a Three Sisters Garden in grow bags.

3. Practice companion planting to attract beneficial insects and pollinators

As you implement polyculture practices (see Tip #2) and provide diverse habitats and food, your garden becomes more attractive to beneficial insects and pollinators. 

Do not kill off the beneficial insects by using pesticides. One reason pesticides are harmful is they often have unintended consequences and do not discriminate between the good bugs and the pests.

How to encourage more beneficial insects and pollinators in your garden: 

• Eliminate all use of pesticides.
• Use organic pest control methods sparingly and with a light hand.
• Provide diverse habitats and food sources for beneficial insects.
• Leave flowering herbs and flowers in place past blooming and delay clean-up.
• Practice no-till methods in your garden.
• Plant as many beneficial insect-friendly plants as possible (see list below).
• Include flowering annuals, herbs, and perennials in your garden.
• Leave stems of plants in place for nesting bees and other insects.

Attracting the right insects can make companion planting even more effective. Read Planting for Pollinators: Create a Simple Insectary Border in Your Garden for ideas that work in any space.

Beneficial insect and pollinator-friendly plants:

Alfalfa, alyssum, angelica, basil, borage, buckwheat, butterfly weed, caraway, chervil, clover, coreopsis, coriander (cilantro), cosmos, dandelion, dill, fennel, lavender, lemon balm, lobelia, lovage, mallow, marigold, mint, parsley, prairie sunflower, Queen Anne’s lace, rudbeckia, scabiosa, statice, sunflowers, tansy, thyme, tithonia, zinnia.

4. Use companion plants as supports or shade for one another

Although this first happened in my garden by accident (cucumbers found a nearby sunflower), I’ve since learned to use it to my advantage. With a bit of planning, you can use plants’ physical characteristics to benefit one another as tall stalks provide support for vining crops. 

Utilizing the vertical space of tall plants allows you to grow more in less space. Vertical gardening also has other benefits such as increased sunlight and airflow, increased pollination, ease of harvesting, and spotting pests. During the summer, okra is my go-to tall plant for companion planting. I usually end up with abundant okra, which I use to make okra water. You can learn about the benefits of okra water in this guide.

Plant taller crops (or crops grown vertically) to provide shade for smaller, more sun-sensitive plants. 

Crops that can provide vertical support include:  amaranth, corn, okra, roselle hibiscus, sunflowers, and tithonia (Mexican sunflower).

Sprawling or climbing plants include: asparagus beans, pole beans, edamame, small winter squash varieties (delitica, mini-Jack pumpkin), Malabar spinach, cherry-type tomatoes, peas, cucamelons, and cucumbers.

Crops that can provide shade include:  luffa, asparagus, sunflowers, corn, cucumbers, winter squash.

Strawberries interplanted with I’itoi onions for pest control and asparagus to shade the strawberries during the summer months. 

5. Practice companion planting to repel pests

Fewer pests is often considered the main goal of companion planting.

There are several methods for repelling plants using companion planting methods. 

Use a companion plant to mask or block the desired crop from pests:

It’s not completely understood how the pests are repelled or attracted to certain plants. Here are a few companionships that have proven to be effective. 

Source: 

Plant Partners: Science Based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden

Use a “trap crop” to divert pests:

Using a trap crop is planting something that is more attractive to pests than your desired crop. 

• Plants used as trap crops should be planted earlier than the main crops. 
• Typically, plant trap crops around the perimeter or near the plant you are protecting. 
• Once the pests are on the trap crop, remove the plant (and the pests) before they reproduce and spread.
• Trap crops work best for pests that are a regular nuisance. 

Sources:

• Perimeter Trap Cropping: A Novel Approach to Insect Control
• Trap Cropping for Small-Market Vegetable Growers
• What Trap Crops Are and How They Work

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Garden labels should be easy to see

When I’m ready to transplant my seedlings or plant my seeds in the garden, I love using these metal plant labels. See the plant labels on Amazon. I use these Sharpie markers to write on the labels.

When it’s time to plant, I label the seeds or seedlings and plant them along with the transplants.

These plant markers are easy to spot in the garden even when the plant gets large. I often have visitors in my garden, and an easy-to-see plant marker is as helpful for them as it is for me. 

The best way to label garden plants should last all season

Keeping accurate records each season is an essential part of gardening. Gardeners often learn as much (or more) from failures as successes. If labels are lost or indecipherable, it isn’t easy to document what went well (or not so well) at the end of the season. 

Wooden labels:

• absorb moisture, and writing bleeds
• often rot quickly

Plastic labels:

• easily lost or buried
• get brittle and break
• the writing often fades by the end of the season

When I use the black metal plant labels and write on them with Sharpie paint pens, they last all season (or all year).

The best way to label garden plants should be reusable

For long-lived trees and plants, I love using these aluminum labels that are easy to emboss with a ballpoint pen. Learn more about labeling trees in this guide.

However, many of my garden plants are annuals. The plants change each season. After removing the current plant, a different plant will be in that spot. Chances are you will plant a different variety of tomatoes or peppers next time and need a different label for the new type of plant.

Ideally, you should use your plant markers again next season. I love that I can paint over the labels with black paint and use them again at the end of each season. Many of these tags have been used for several years. 

If you’re looking for an easy, reusable way to label your garden plants, you can’t go wrong with these labels.

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Follow these eight tips for beautiful containers, and your containers will not only look great, but they will last longer and thrive.

Learn how to plant pots with these 8 tips for container gardening

1. Choose your pots

Select pots you love. The containers you choose are part of the design. Look for containers in a style that suits your home. Neutral-colored pots let the plants be the stars, while brightly-colored pots draw your attention to it.

Groupings of odd numbers generally look better together. Consider the size of your containers; annuals need at least 8 inches of soil. For multiple plants, look for containers at least 12 inches wide.

2. Provide drainage

The containers need holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain. If the containers do not have holes, add your own. Roots need oxygen; drowning the roots with water will kill most plants.

3. Fill the containers with potting soil

Regular garden soil is too heavy for containers. Potting soil allows excess water to drain out of the container easily while providing air for the roots to breathe. Fill the entire container with soil rather than adding rocks or other fillers. Your plants will benefit from the added soil.

4. Choose the correct plants

Some plants prefer full sun, while others do best with some shade. Know before you plant where you will put your potted plants, and choose the correct plants for the light available to them – whether it is in the sun, partly in the sun, or completely in the shade.  

In addition to similar sun requirements, select plants that have similar water requirements. If you combine plants with different needs, some won’t thrive. The light and water requirements are normally listed on the plant information tag.

5. Allow plants room to grow

Don’t overcrowd plants. Select plants that are relatively small, and give them room to grow. Smaller plants adapt better to the growing conditions you provide. Their smaller root systems also absorb water better than plants whose roots have become overgrown in a nursery pot.

6. Water containers properly

Potted plants dry out more quickly than those in the ground. Watering your containers in the morning allows the plants to absorb moisture before the heat of the day. 

Check potted plants daily for signs that they need water. Customarily, when the top inch or two of soil is dry, it is time to water. Watering slowly and deeply allows the roots and potting soil to absorb the water before it drains from the bottom.

7. Feed potted plants regularly

Plants in containers must be fertilized more often because nutrients are leached out of the drain holes with the water. It’s best to fertilize regularly with an organic fertilizer. The microbes in the soil activate the organic amendments, and the nutrients are slowly released to plants.

8. Pinch back and deadhead flowers

Cut back tall spindly stems of plants to the first or second set of leaves to encourage fullness. Make it a practice to ‘deadhead’ or remove spent blooms each time you water. Cutting off played-out flowers encourages the plant to produce more flowers instead of shifting its focus to producing seeds

My container gardening resources:

For more resources, I have several videos and blog posts that provide step-by-step guides, tips, and tricks for successful container gardening.

• Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Steps for Success
• 20 Best Vegetables for Container Gardening
• Gardening in Grow Bags: 5 Tips for Success
• The Best Way to Water Containers
• Container Gardening Playlist on YouTube

If you enjoy container gardening, you’ll love the benefits of elevated beds—check out my guide, How to Grow in Elevated Garden Beds, to learn how to get started.

Looking for more small space gardening ideas? Don’t miss my post on GreenStalk Gardening Tips, where I share what’s worked (and what hasn’t) in my Arizona garden.

To learn more about gardening in containers, read my book on this topic. Learn more about the book “How to Grow Your Own Food: A Beginner’s Guide to Container Gardening” in this post or purchase the book here.

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This final step in planting a tree is crucial if you want to remember ‘what’ and ‘when’ you planted the tree. Future generations and property owners will thank you for your foresight in labeling your tree.

Why should I label my fruit trees?

• Organization. Know what is growing on your property.
• Source of valuable information such as where tree was purchased and date planted.
• Visitors can enjoy knowing what is growing in your yard. 
• When you move or pass on property, new owner knows what is growing. 

What should be included on the label for the fruit tree? 

• Type and variety of tree.
• When tree was planted.
• Where tree was purchased.
• Rootstock (if known).
• Any other pertinent information you would like.

How should I label fruit trees?

There are several different methods for labeling fruit trees (3 options are discussed below). Each method requires upkeep. Decide which method or combination of methods will work for you. Look for the label to be weatherproof if you want it to last.

How to label fruit trees (option #1): Hang an embossable plant marker on a branch in the tree

Aluminum markers are easily embossed with a ball-point pen. I like this kind from Amazon. Use wire to hang a large loop around a scaffolding branch. Do not attach to main branch, as it could girdle (suffocate) main tree if left unattended for years. 

• Advantages: Easy to use. Stays put in tree. Writing lasts indefinitely.
• Disadvantages: Could girdle branch; must loosen fastener and move to smaller branch as tree grows. 

How to label fruit trees (option #2): Put a plant marker in the ground

Use a metal plant label and write on it with a Sharpie Paint Marker. Learn more in this guide to labeling plants.

• Advantages: Will not girdle plant branch. Writing lasts for several seasons.
• Disadvantages: Can be lost or moved. Writing will fade; need to rewrite after 1-2 years.  

How to label fruit trees (option #3): Make a diagram of yard with trees and fruit trees labeled 

Use Google Earth, an online garden planning tool, or graph paper to map the yard and existing trees. Draw in newly-added trees. Keep an updated copy with your home deed or other documents. Use a binder/folder to keep nursery tags, receipts, etc. for the trees.

• Advantages: Easily see your yard at a glance. 
• Disadvantages: Can get lost. Must keep maintained with new plantings.

Once I’ve labeled my fruit trees, what should I do?

Spend some time keeping the method(s) you choose updated. This is an excellent project for the off-season in your garden. “The palest ink is stronger than memory” holds true here.

• Take a few minutes to document your plantings each time you plant.  
• Walk your yard each season to check on plant labels. Replace worn or broken tags, rewrite faded labels, and move tags to smaller branches.

Questions about growing citrus? This article answers 10 questions about how to grow citrus and includes guidelines for selecting, planting, watering, and fertilizing citrus.

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