Learning how to save seeds is one of the most rewarding and practical skills a gardener can develop. When a plant produces seeds, it typically completes its life cycle. Saving those seeds is simple, cost-effective, and a great way to grow your garden season after season.

In this guide, you’ll learn how to save seeds using easy methods that are perfect for beginners.

Learning how to save seeds gives you a nearly-continuous supply of seeds that are adapted to your area at little or no cost. 

What We Will Cover:

• Learn a little seed terminology before you save seeds
• Save seeds from only the best plants and fruit
• Seeds for saving must be fully developed on the plant or vine
• Learn how to harvest and dry both “wet” and “dry” seeds
• Once seeds are thoroughly dry, store saved seeds correctly
• Share your saved seeds with others
• Frequently Asked Questions About Saving Seeds

1. Learn a little seed terminology before you save seeds

Understanding how plants produce seeds and how they’re pollinated will help you be more successful at seed saving. These basic terms are helpful to know:

• Self-pollinating plants
  These plants can pollinate themselves without help from insects, wind, or other plants. Because of their low risk of cross-pollination, they are great for first-time seed savers.
  Examples: Beans, peas, lettuce, and tomatoes.
• Open-pollinated plants
  Open-pollinated varieties are pollinated naturally by insects, wind, or animals. They will grow true to type if they are not cross-pollinated with a different variety of the same species.
  Many open-pollinated plants (especially in the squash, cucumber, melon, and corn families) readily cross-pollinate.
  Tip: If you’re growing more than one variety of an open-pollinated species nearby, the seeds may not produce plants like the parent. Use isolation techniques, timing, or distance if you plan to save seed from these crops.
• Hybrid plants (F1 hybrids)
  Hybrid varieties are created by crossing two parent plants to produce a third variety with specific desirable traits.
  Important: Seeds saved from hybrid plants usually do not grow true to type and often produce unpredictable or inferior results. It’s best not to save seeds from hybrids.
• Heirloom varieties
  These are open-pollinated plants that have been passed down for generations, typically 50 years or more. They are genetically stable and tend to produce consistent results from saved seed, making them excellent choices for home seed saving.

Real-Life Example: What Happens When You Save Cross-Pollinated Seeds

When I first started saving seeds, I made the mistake of saving seeds from an Armenian cucumber I had grown near cantaloupe. The next year, I planted those seeds and ended up with large, strange-looking fruits that weren’t good for eating. They were bland, tough, and clearly not true to the original cucumber.

That was my first lesson in cross-pollination. Even though Armenian cucumbers and cantaloupes look and taste very different, they’re both members of the Cucurbitaceae family and can cross-pollinate if grown close together.

If you’re saving seeds from open-pollinated crops like cucumbers, squash, or melons, it’s important to grow only one variety at a time or use isolation methods (distance, barriers, or hand pollination) to prevent cross-pollination. Otherwise, the seeds may not produce plants like the ones you started with.

When Does Cross-Pollination Affect the Fruit?

It’s important to understand that cross-pollination doesn’t affect the fruit in the current growing season. If you grow two related plants close together (like Armenian cucumber and cantaloupe) the fruit that develops that year will still be true to the parent plant and taste as expected.

However, if you save seeds from that fruit and plant them the following season, the plants that grow will carry the mixed genetics from both parent varieties. That’s when you’ll see strange, sometimes inedible results.

In other words, cross-pollination affects the next generation of fruit—not the current harvest.

This is why isolation is only necessary if you plan to save seeds. If you’re not saving seeds, you can grow multiple varieties of the same plant family together without worrying about cross-pollination.

2. Save seeds from only the best plants and fruit

Seed saving is a form of selection. The seeds you save today shape the garden you’ll grow tomorrow.

Avoid saving seeds from diseased or weak plants. Instead, choose seeds from the healthiest, most vigorous plants and the best-tasting fruit. By doing so, you’re encouraging those desirable traits—flavor, productivity, disease resistance—to carry on in future generations.

Want to take more steps toward self-sufficient gardening? Explore these tips in this article.

3. Seeds for saving must be fully mature on the plant

The best time to harvest a vegetable for eating is often not the best time to save its seed.

Seeds need time to fully mature on the plant to become viable. That means allowing the fruit or seed pod to stay on the plant well past the eating stage. The plant’s natural life cycle ends with seed development, so give it the time it needs to finish that process.

Be patient, fully mature seeds are more likely to sprout and grow into strong, healthy plants.

Examples:

• For tomatoes, let the fruit ripen fully on the vine before harvesting seeds from the best ones.
• Let beans and peas dry fully on the vine before harvesting for seed.
• Allow cucumbers and squash to stay on the plant until they turn overripe and their skins harden.
• Wait for lettuce, arugula, and other leafy greens to bolt and produce seed stalks that dry out before collecting.

4. Understand the difference between wet and dry seeds

The way you save seeds depends on how the plant produces them. Wet seeds and dry seeds require different methods for cleaning and storage.

Wet Seeds Need Fermentation Before Drying

Seeds from wet, fleshy fruits like tomatoes, cucumbers, and cucuamelons are surrounded by a gel coating that inhibits germination. Fermentation removes this coating and helps prevent disease in stored seeds.

How to ferment wet seeds:

• Gather supplies: knife, spoon, glass jar, water, sieve, coffee filter, and a small bucket if needed.
• Scoop the seeds: Cut the fruit in half and scrape the seeds into a jar. Add a little water.
• Ferment: Let the mixture sit at room temperature for 2–4 days. Stir once or twice a day to prevent mold from forming.
• Separate viable seeds: Add fresh water, stir, and let the contents settle. Viable seeds sink; pulp and bad seeds float. Pour off the pulp and repeat until the water is mostly clear.
• Rinse and dry: Pour seeds into a sieve and rinse until they no longer feel slippery. Spread them out on a coffee filter or screen and let them dry completely. This usually takes 1–2 days.

Wet seeds that do not need fermentation include melon, eggplant, and ground cherry.
Simply remove the seeds from the fruit, rinse them well under running water to remove any pulp, and spread them out to dry completely.

Dry Seeds Can Be Collected Once the Pods Mature

Dry seeds come from plants that naturally produce seeds in pods or flower heads. These include crops like sunflowers, hollyhocks, lettuce, arugula, and herbs.

How to save dry seeds:

• Allow seed heads or pods to dry completely on the plant.
• Harvest into a brown paper sack when the seed pods are dry and brittle.
• Remove seeds: Shake or crumble the pods to release the seeds.
• Let seeds continue to cure in the sack for another week or two to ensure they’re fully dry before storing.

Tip: If a crop bolts unexpectedly (like carrots or lettuce), you may still be able to save seeds.
Read Why Carrots Bolt in Their First Year to understand what triggers bolting and how to handle it.

What Do Saved Seeds Look Like?

Every crop produces seeds a little differently. Some are large and easy to handle, while others are tiny and delicate. Seeing examples of mature, saved seeds can help you know what to look for when it’s time to harvest your own.

Below are images of saved seeds from a variety of vegetables, herbs, and flowers. Use these as a visual reference as you begin collecting and saving seeds from your garden.

5. Once seeds are thoroughly dry, store them correctly

Proper drying is essential for successful seed saving. Seeds that are not completely dry are more likely to mold or rot in storage.

After drying, place seeds in labeled paper envelopes or seed packets. For longer-term storage, you can place those envelopes in airtight containers like mason jars. Always include the seed type and the harvest date on the label.

Store seeds in a dark, cool, and dry location. A closet, cupboard, or even the refrigerator can work well. Good storage conditions help maintain seed viability and extend their shelf life for future planting.

Want to dive deeper into seed storage?
Learn how to store seeds properly, prevent moisture damage, and find out how long different types of seeds will last.
Read more: How to Store Seeds and How Long They Last

6. Share your saved seeds with others

Set aside some seeds to plant next year, and then share the extras in a seed swap or donate them to a local seed library. Garden seeds also make great gifts for gardeners.  

Did you learn something from this article? Please share it with others and begin observing the plants around you. Also, watch the life cycle of your plants. For instance, how do they make seeds? Can you save them?

Which seeds do you have success in saving? I’d love to hear from you in the comments.

Frequently Asked Questions About Saving Seeds

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The post How to Save Seeds: A Beginner’s Guide to Seed Saving appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

In this post, I’ll walk you through the essentials: how to store seeds so they last, how to organize seeds for easy access, and tips for keeping your seed collection manageable season after season. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced gardener, this guide will help you make the most of your seeds and save time, money, and effort.

Article Outline

1. Provide Optimal Conditions for Seed Storage
2. Understand Seed Life Expectancy
   • Seed Life Expectancy Table
3. Find a seed storage & organization method that works for you
4. Label Seeds for Easy Identification and Planting
5. Create a System for Using and Rotating Your Seeds Each Season

5 Tips for Seed Storage and Seed Organization

1. Provide Optimal Conditions for Seed Storage

To maximize seed longevity, you must protect seeds from moisture, warmth, air, light, and pests.

• Moisture: Seeds must be completely dry before storage. Moisture encourages mold and reduces viability. Avoid humid areas, and ensure seeds feel dry to the touch before storing.
• Temperature: Keep seeds cool and at a constant temperature, ideally between 32°F–50°F (0°C–10°C). Avoid temperature fluctuations—indoors is better than frequent trips in and out of a fridge. Avoid warm areas like attics or garages in summer.
• Air: Minimize air exposure. Store seeds in tightly sealed containers to slow deterioration.
• Light: Store seeds in a dark location, such as a closet, drawer, or under a bed, to extend their lifespan.
• Pests: Protect seeds from rodents and insects. Use secure containers, as cardboard, wooden boxes, and plastic bags are insufficient.

How to Store Seeds For Long-Term Seed Storage: If you want to store seeds for several years, take additional steps to ensure their longevity. Use airtight containers with desiccant packs to absorb moisture or vacuum-seal seeds to reduce air exposure further.

Store seeds in the freezer for maximum preservation—but only if they are completely dry. Allow frozen seeds to reach room temperature before opening the container to prevent condensation, which can damage the seeds.

By controlling these factors, you will create the ideal environment for long-term seed storage and keep your seeds viable for future planting.

2. Understand Seed Life Expectancy

How long can you expect stored seeds to last?

• Seed viability depends on their maturity and storage conditions. Fully ripened seeds last longer in storage and germinate better than underdeveloped seeds.
• Over time, stored seeds lose viability, and their germination rates decline. While older seeds may still sprout, they often produce weaker plants that are more susceptible to pests and disease.
• Different seeds have varying life expectancies—some deteriorate faster than others, even under optimal storage conditions.

Testing Seed Viability: Unsure if older seeds will still sprout? Use the damp paper towel method to check. Place a few seeds on a damp paper towel, fold it over, and seal it in a plastic bag or container. Keep it in a warm spot (65-75°F or 18-24°C) and check after a few days. If most seeds sprout, they’re still viable; if not, it’s time to replace them.

This table gives general guidelines for the life expectancy of seeds:

For more information about saving seeds, read this blog post or watch this video.

3. Find a seed storage & seed organization method that works for you

An effective seed storage and organization system should be simple, functional, and easy to maintain. If you garden year-round, you’ll need a system that allows quick and frequent access. If you only plant once a year, your needs will be different.

Choose a seed storage method that suits your habits and budget—overly complicated or expensive systems are harder to stick with. Be patient as you develop your seed organization routine. It doesn’t need to be perfect; consistency is what matters most.

My Seed Storage and Organization System

I use small, airtight containers for each type of seed to minimize air exposure. These are the containers I use on Amazon. These containers are stored in a large drawer, which keeps the seeds cool, dark, and easy to access when needed.

For added seed organization, the small containers can also be stored inside a larger storage box and placed in a cool, dark location.

To stay organized, I have a separate holding area for seeds I plan to plant soon and for packets that need to be returned to their containers. (This helps keep me organized if I can’t put seeds back right away.)

Starting out can feel overwhelming when it comes to supplies. That’s why I created my favorite garden tools and supplies page, where you’ll find the tools, seed storage, and watering products I rely on year after year.

4. Label Seeds for Easy Identification and Planting

Clear labeling in your seed storage system saves time and makes knowing when to plant your seeds easier. Use labels to include any information that’s helpful for you. I use these white labels to mark the seed type on the top of each container for quick identification.

For added convenience, include planting dates and other key details. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I offer pre-made labels in my shop with planting information for vegetables and flowers. You can see the vegetable labels here and the flower labels here.

Here’s the information I recommend when labeling your stored seeds:

• Seed name
• Planting dates
• Indoor seed-starting dates

Optional details for extra seed organization:

• Botanical name
• Germination time
• Preferred soil temperature
• Days to harvest
• Preferred sun exposure

Taking time to label your seeds now will make planting and garden planning much easier later.

Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers

Purchase the Vegetable Labels here, and the Flower Labels here.

5. Create a System for Using and Rotating Your Stored Seeds Each Season

It’s easy to buy more seeds than you need, especially if you aren’t aware of what you already have. An effective seed organization system helps reduce unnecessary purchases and ensures you use your seeds efficiently. Get more budget gardening ideas in this guide.

Here are a few tips to incorporate into your system:

• Rotate your seeds: Place the oldest seeds in front and the newest in the back. This encourages you to use older seeds first to avoid waste.
• Designate a planting area: Keep a separate space for seeds you plan to use soon, making garden planning and planting quicker and easier. Learn more about how to plan your garden in this guide.
• Organize for convenience: Have a designated spot for seeds that need to be returned to their containers if you can’t put them back immediately. I will often keep my seeds out in this area until I plant them in case there is information on the seed packet I need to refer to.
• Categorize your seeds: Sort your seeds into groups that make sense for you—by type (e.g., vegetables, flowers, herbs) or planting season (e.g., cool-season and warm-season crops).
• Track inventory: Keep a notebook or digital list nearby to jot down seeds you’re running low on or those you’d like to order.

Ready to start planting? These are my favorite seeds and the companies I order from year after year.

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The post Seed Storage: The Best Way to Store and Organize Seeds appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

Gift Index:

• Loofah Soap
• Peach Jam and Roselle Jam
• Saved Seeds from the Garden
• Bay Laurel Wreath
• Loofah Scrubber
• Fruit Basket
• Herb Bundles
• Wildflower Seed Packets
• Herbal Teas
• Dehydrated or Freeze Dried Herbs
• Celery Salt
• Gift Assembly Ideas

Loofah Soap

I first made this at a class at Arizona Worm Farm. After seeing how simple it was, my daughter-in-law and I made our own with lavender and loofah from the garden.

Supplies Needed:

• Loofah – dried, peeled and washed. I used the inner core from sponges, and saved the outside of the sponge for the loofah scrubbers (below). Learn how to grow loofah in this guide.
• Dried lavender or other dried flowers or herbs
• Soap molds
• Soap base – We used a goat milk base
• Essential oil

Instructions: Place the cut-up loofah (the middle of the scrubbers) in the mold and then add the melted soap base. Add dried lavender and a drop of lavender oil. Let it harden and cure for a couple of weeks before using.

For tips on how to grow lavender in warm climates, check out this guide.

Peach Jam and Roselle Jam

There’s nothing quite like homemade jam made from fresh, homegrown fruits. Peach jam and roselle jam are delicious treats that make perfect gifts.

You can find the recipe for roselle jam here. Use your favorite peach jam recipe and follow instructions for properly canning. I also love canning salsa from the garden to give as gifts. Here’s my favorite salsa recipe.

Saved Seeds from the Garden

Sharing seeds is a beautiful way to spread the joy of gardening. Bundle them with a ribbon, and you have a thoughtful and inspiring gift. Learn more about how to save seeds in this guide.

Instructions: Add 1-2 teaspoons of seeds to a paper envelope (these are the ones I use) and tie a few packages together with a ribbon (this is my favorite ribbon). Add a QR code link to the “How to Grow” guides for each crop on my website to make growing easy!

Bay Laurel Wreath

This bay laurel wreath is simple to make and adds a lovely, natural touch to any home. If you are growing bay laurel, this is an easy gift. If you’re not growing it, learn how to grow bay laurel in this guide.

Supplies Needed:

• Branches from a bay laurel tree. The amount needed will vary but plan on 15-20 cuttings for a full-looking wreath.
• Grapevine wreath. This is the one I used.
• Flexible paddle wire.

• Instructions: Add the branches to the wreath by slipping the stem side of the branch into the wreath. Use the branches’ natural curves to guide where to place them on the wreath. Then, attach one end of the wire to the wreath and wrap it around the wreath under the leaves to hold the branches in place when they dry. It just took a couple of minutes! You can leave it as is or add more decorations.

I also make bay laurel wreaths on a wire. You can learn more about how to make that type of bay laurel wreath in this guide.

Loofah Dish Scrubber

Making loofah scrubbers is easy and fun!

Supplies Needed:

• Loofah – dried, peeled and washed. Remove the inner core, so you have a flat piece of luffa. Learn how to grow loofah in this guide.
• Crochet thread. (This is the one I use.)
• Needle. (This is the one I use.)

• Instructions: Let loofahs fully develop on the vine. Cut off the end and shake out the seeds when they are dry. Peel off the outer skin. Then cut it open down one of the ridges. Loofahs have a core in the middle where the seeds are; cut out the core where it attaches to the outer sponge. Save that middle part to add to loofah soap (see above), then flatten it out. Soak the sponges in water and vinegar. Then, cut into even parts and sew together around the outside edge. (Your sewing doesn’t need to be perfect, mine wasn’t!) Tie off both ends well to hold it together.

Check out my detailed guide on how to make Loofah Scrubbers for further step-by-step instructions.

Fruit Basket

If you have citrus in your yard, you often take it for granted. Give fresh citrus to friends and neighbors. Check the local Goodwill or thrift stores for baskets.

Fill a basket with lemons, limes, or calamondins. The same goes for pomegranates—they can be expensive, so share a few with those who will enjoy them. Attach your favorite recipe for lemon curd, key lime pie, or pomegranate jalepeño cream cheese dip.

Herb Bundles – (Bouquet Garni)

These herb bundles, or ‘bouquet garni,’ translated from French as a “garnished bouquet,” are easy to make. Place them directly into soups or stews while cooking. The herbs release their flavors into your cooking, and when you’re ready to serve, you can effortlessly remove the bundle from the pot without the hassle of fishing out individual herbs. Give one with a favorite recipe as a gift, and include more ingredients to make it extra special.

Supplies Needed:

• Fresh herbs. Traditional versions include parsley, thyme, and bay leaves, but you can customize it with herbs like rosemary or oregano to suit your recipe.
• Cheesecloth bags. (These are the ones I use.)

Instructions: Gather fresh herbs like rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves. Place the desired amount in each bag. Use within a month or so for the best flavor.

Wildflower Seed Packets

Sharing wildflower seeds is a gift that keeps on giving. I gave these to many of my neighbors last year, and it was fun to see the wildflowers sprouting around the neighborhood. Get complete instructions and download the free printable for wildflower gifts here.

Supplies Needed: I used cosmos, California poppy, Shirley poppy, larkspur, and cornflower (bachelor button) seeds in my mix.

Instructions: Add ½ to 1 cup of sand or vermiculite as filler. Add one teaspoon of each type of seed into the filler. If you purchased a seed mixture, include 4–5 teaspoons in each bag.

Herbal Teas

Mix your favorite combinations and put them in these jars (love the attached spoon!). Then, give them some reusable tea bags or a steeping mug to enjoy their homegrown organic tea.

Roselle Citrus Tea

A refreshing blend of roselle, lemon verbena leaves, stevia, lemongrass, and lemon peel. More information about roselle citrus tea.

Chamomile Tea

Remember all that chamomile we harvested? It’s time to share it! Learn more in this chamomile growing guide.

Calming Tea Blend

A soothing mix of lemon balm, lemon verbena, tulsi, chamomile, calendula, stevia leaf, and citrus wheels.

Dehydrated or Freeze Dried Herbs

Freeze-drying or dehydrating herbs preserves the garden’s fresh flavor. Add some to jars and share organically grown herbs as a gift. Learn more about how to freeze dry herbs in this guide.

Celery Salt

This simple yet flavorful seasoning captures the fresh essence of celery, allowing you to enhance your favorite dishes anytime. Share this fresh flavor with others. Learn how to make celery salt in this guide.

Gifts from the Garden Assembly Ideas

I like to add personal touches like handwritten notes or labels. Combine different items into a cohesive gift set by creating gift baskets. Use burlap or jute from the garden to wrap your gifts. Use what you have.

Now you know some of the gifts from the garden I’m giving this year. What gifts are you giving from your garden this year? I’d love to hear your ideas!

See my other gift guides:

• Gifts That Will Make Any Gardener Happy
• Gardener’s Gift Guide: Kitchen Edition
• Gardener’s Gift Guide: Garden Favorites
• 10 Gifts Every Gardener Will Love
• Gardening Gift Ideas – Gifts for Gardeners

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The post Gifts from the Garden: Homegrown Holiday Ideas appeared first on Growing In The Garden.

It might feel like you need “all the things” to start a garden. That’s not true. Start small and start where you are. ⁣My first garden was a 4’x4′ raised bed made from pine boards that Home Depot cut for me. That bed lasted over ten years and grew a huge amount of food.

Starting a garden on a budget does not have to be daunting. Good advice to follow is, “Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can.” Here are ten simple ways to start your garden without breaking the bank:

Article Outline:

1. Start Small
2. Reuse and Recycle
3. Swap Seeds and Plants
4. Make Your Own Compost
5. Choose Perennials
6. Grow from Seeds
7. Water Wisely
8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures
9. Use Natural Pest Control
10. Choose High-Yield Crops
11. Find Ways to Use Your Harvests

Bonus Tip

1. Start Small:

To minimize costs and workload, begin with a small sunken bed or container garden. It’s easier to expand later as your confidence grows. A sunken bed has minimal start-up cost and can be a very effective way to garden. To learn more, read this post about sunken-bed gardening.

2. Reuse and Recycle:

When starting your garden, use items you already have around the house. Old containers, cement blocks, and bathtubs can be used as planters to save money. Think outside the garden box and use the ideas in this blog post about creative container gardening.

Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates is a great place to start if you’re working with a small space or just want an easier setup to manage.

3. Swap Seeds and Plants:

Swap seeds or cuttings with friends, neighbors, or online communities. This way, you can get a variety of plants for free.

• Seed packages often contain more seeds than you will use; split packages with friends.
• Learn how to save seeds so you always have some to share.
• Local libraries often have seed libraries where you can check out seeds for free!

Starting a garden can feel overwhelming. Read this guide to help you avoid new gardeners’ most common mistakes.

4. Make Your Own Compost:

Composting kitchen scraps and yard waste will save money on soil amendments and fertilizers. Although this can be daunting at first, begin composting kitchen scraps with in-bed vermicomposting. If you have a large amount of yard waste, learn how to compost in this blog post.

5. Choose Perennials When Starting Your Garden on a Budget:

Perennials come back year after year, saving you money in the long run. Some of my favorite perennials are asparagus, artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, and strawberries. Learn more about growing perennials in this blog post.

6. Grow from Seeds to Save Money Gardening:

Growing plants from seeds is cheaper than buying seedlings or mature plants. Don’t be intimidated by starting plants from seed. If they have good soil and you start them at the right time, seeds will grow!

7. Water Wisely:

Depending on where you live, water can be an expensive part of gardening. Water in the early morning or late evening to reduce evaporation and save on your water bill. Learn other watering principles in this blog post. Learn how to harvest and channel rainwater here.

Mulch reduces the need for watering and weeding, saving time and money. Places like Chipdrop provide gardeners with free woodchips. Learn more about how to use mulch.

8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures:

Building your own trellises, cages, and supports, instead of buying them, is a simple way to start a garden on a budget. Look around your house or garage and repurpose a ladder or other items. If you want to learn more, read this post about creative vertical gardening ideas.

9. Use Natural Pest Control:

When I started gardening, I thought I needed expensive organic pest control amendments and sprays, such as neem oil. But it turns out that using natural methods like companion planting and adding herbs and flowers to your garden to help control pests is more effective and eliminates the need for expensive products. This will save you money and be better for your garden. Learn more about successful companion planting principles in this blog post.

10. Choose High-Yield Crops When Budget Gardening:

Starting a garden on a budget doesn’t mean you can’t grow delicious food. Grow vegetables that produce a lot of food, like tomatoes, zucchini, and beans. You’ll get large harvests with less expense. Choose crops you enjoy eating so there is less waste. 

11. Find Ways to Use Your harvests

Try growing loofahs and learn how to make your own scrubbers!

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You’ll never need to buy a sponge again—plus, they’re completely sustainable. I love using my loofah sponges for washing dishes or in the shower!

Save on gift-giving by creating thoughtful, homegrown items that friends and family will truly appreciate. Here are some of my favorite ways to use and share my harvest!

• Gifts from the Garden: Homegrown Holiday Ideas
• Holiday Neighbor Gift: Wildflower Seed Packets

Bonus Tip: Learn and Experiment When Starting a Garden on a Budget

The more you learn about gardening, the more you can save. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes.

Remember, gardening doesn’t have to be expensive. A beautiful and productive garden on a budget is possible with creativity and resourcefulness.  Let me know your best money-saving tips in the comments. 

If you are just getting started with gardening, this beginner’s guide is a great place to begin. It pulls together my most helpful resources for new gardeners and walks you through the first steps toward a thriving garden.

Now that you know how to garden on a budget, here are 8 simple tips to help you get your garden started.

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Self-sufficient gardening is developing skills and implementing systems to help your garden thrive with less dependence upon other sources and less influence from outside forces.

A self-sufficient garden means you don’t have to run to the store whenever you need seeds, compost, or fertilizer. Learn more about how to make your garden (and you!) self-sufficient with these 10 tips. 

10 Tips for Having a More Self-Sufficient Garden

These ten tips aren’t in any particular order, but the more of these suggestions you implement, the more self-sufficient your garden will become. 

1. Learn how to save seeds

Saving seeds is not complicated; it is often straightforward. Learn about the crops you are growing and see if it is possible to save seeds from them. Learn the best time to harvest seeds, and store them properly. (This blog post tells you how.) Properly-saved seeds will last for years.

An added advantage to saving seeds is that seeds you save from crops that grow well in your garden are adapted to your garden’s unique growing conditions. 

I go into detail in this blog post and in this video about the specifics of saving seeds, but the bottom line is that YOU CAN LEARN TO DO IT! 

2. Plan and grow your own “seed” crops

When you think of seed saving – think outside the box a little. There are many crops that, if you save bulbs or learn how they propagate, you can grow enough to consume and set aside some to replant the following season. 

For example, save your best cloves of garlic to plant the following season. Because I have two planting windows for potatoes, I can save some of my spring potatoes to plant out in the fall. Save a couple of sweet potatoes and grow slips to plant next spring. This blog post tells you how.

3. Learn how to start from seeds (indoors and out) 

Learning how to grow crops from seeds successfully is a valuable skill. It can require practice and the right equipment if growing indoors. However, the initial outlay in time and money will be well-paid over and over in the number of transplants you don’t have to purchase from the garden center. 

Although prices have gone up, the price of a packet of seeds is usually a few dollars (free if you save your own), and within that seed packet, there are usually dozens of seeds. If stored properly, seeds will last many years and give you more transplants than you probably need.

On the other hand, a six-pack of vegetable transplants (the price for these has also gone up!) is usually considerably more than the price of a package of seeds. 

The added benefit of learning how to start from seed is the wide variety of fruits and vegetables, flowers, and herbs that are now accessible for you to add to your garden. 

4. Learn which perennial crops grow well in your zone and area

Perennials are a sure way to become more self-sufficient in the garden.

Perennial crops come back season after season, with just a little seasonal upkeep or maintenance needed from you. Good examples of perennial crops to consider adding to your garden are asparagus, strawberries, artichokes, rhubarb, perennial kale, Jerusalem artichoke, I’itoi onions, longevity spinach, and peppers. 

5. Plant fruit trees suited to your climate zone

Learn which types of fruit trees grow well in your zone and add them to your garden. Learn how many chill hours your area receives and pick fruit trees that require that number (or less). For example, where I live, citrus grows well and thrives in our native soil, as do varieties of peaches, figs, and pomegranates.  

Fruit trees not only provide an abundance of fruit, but many are deciduous, and their leaves are valuable additions to the soil and compost pile.

Don’t forget other fruits like blackberries, raspberries, grapes, goji berries, etc. Learn what grows well in your area and plant it! 

6. Learn how to propagate plants

Adding perennials can be a substantial investment, but there is another way to add perennials. Learn how to propagate and multiply your existing plants (or others’ plants). There are many methods: 

• Cuttings 
• Division
• Air or ground layering
• Grafting

7. Learn how to compost 

Compost is a mixture of ingredients that would otherwise be in the landfill used to fertilize and improve the soil. Adding compost to your garden at the beginning of each season is the best way to prepare your soil for spring, summer, and fall planting.

Compost:

• Adds organic matter to the soil to improve the texture.
• Fresh compost contains billions of living microorganisms.
• Improves plant health and production.
• Protects plants from certain diseases.
• Helps moderate soil pH. 
• Supports the beneficial microbes already in the soil.  

With so many reasons to add compost, learning how to compost should be high on your list of ways to become more self-sufficient in the garden. 

I compost my garden waste using traditional composting methods and my kitchen scraps using in-bed vermicomposting. I have articles and videos on YouTube about both processes. 

8. Create your own fertilizer for self-sufficient gardening

Feeding your soil with compost is essential, but you may sometimes want added fertilizer boosts. There are a couple of ways you can produce some of your own: 

Chickens or other livestock produce waste that is high in nitrogen that can be added to compost and then fed to your plants.

Grow comfrey. Comfrey leaves are high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and many trace elements. Comfrey leaves decompose into a liquid rather quickly and make an excellent liquid fertilizer.

Gow cover crops. Some cover crops can help increase the nitrogen in the soil or be used as green manure.

In this article, learn more about using cover crops during summer to improve garden soil.

9. Learn how to collect and use rainwater

Collecting and saving rainwater for use in the garden makes sense and was a common practice by our ancestors. 

Benefits of saving rainwater include:

• Water conservation.
• Saves money on utility bills.
• Access to water during a drought.
• Rainwater contains fewer concentrations of dissolved minerals like magnesium and calcium.
• Unlike tap water, rainwater isn’t treated with chlorine, minerals, and salts.

Before collecting rainwater, check your local laws and regulations to make sure it is legal in your area. 

10. Maximize your garden space for self-sufficient gardening

There never seems to be enough room in our gardens (no matter how large they are) to grow everything we want. Using your area efficiently will help you become more self-sufficient in the garden. Methods that maximize garden space include: 

Vertical gardening is better for plants and gives you more room to plant! Read this blog post to learn more.

Extend the seasons with shade, hoop houses, crop covers, etc. Read this blog post to learn more.

Succession planting. Don’t leave empty areas in the garden. When a spot opens up, plant something! Learn more about succession planting in this guide.

Find creative ways to use your garden harvests around the house. Try growing loofah, a plant that not only thrives in the heat but also helps create a more sustainable kitchen with natural scrubbers.

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How to Grow, Harvest, and Roast Edible Sunflower Seeds

1. Choose a confection (edible) variety of sunflower seeds

Although sunflowers make excellent cut flowers and are grown for their bright blossoms, if you are growing them for the edible seeds, it’s important to plant the type you can eat, called “confection varieties”. 

There are short and tall confection varieties. Short types usually have fewer seeds, but the seeds are larger. The edible tall varieties produce a higher amount of slightly smaller seeds. 

Small edible varieties include: 

• Royal Hybrid
• Snack Seed
• Super Snack Mix

Tall edible varieties include:

• Mammoth Gray Stripe
• Sunzilla
• Titan

2. How and when to plant edible sunflower seeds

Sunflowers are a warm-season crop. Plant after the danger of frost has passed in the spring and soil temperatures have warmed to about 60°F. 

In warm-climate areas, start sunflowers directly in the soil. Plant sunflower seeds from February through July in the low desert of Arizona. In cooler-climate areas, seeds may be started indoors for transplanting outside, but take care not to disturb the roots. 

Plant sunflower seeds about 1” deep in rich, well-draining soil. Sunflowers tolerate poor soil, but rich soil will produce a larger, stronger sunflower.

Space most edible varieties 12-18” apart to give the plants room to grow. 

3. How to grow edible sunflower seeds

• Sunflowers need plenty of sun to grow well. Plant in an area that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight. 
• Give sunflowers regular water. 
• Typically, sunflowers don’t require additional feeding. 
• Keep the area weed free. 
• Keep an eye on the flower head and when it begins to droop, cover it with netting to keep the birds from eating your seeds.

For square-foot gardening, allow 1-2 square feet per plant. 

4. When to harvest edible sunflower seeds

Seeds should be harvested when the back of the seed head has turned brown for the largest kernels. 

The seed head can be left on the plant to turn brown (cover the head with netting to protect it from birds) or removed when it turns yellow. To cut off the seed head when yellow, leave several inches of stem attached and then hang it upside down to continue ripening. 

To remove seeds, rub two seed heads together or use your hands or a wire brush to loosen the seeds.

5. How to roast edible sunflower seeds

Once you have harvested the seeds, remove any debris and cover the seeds with water. 

Add ¼-½ cup of salt per 2 quarts of water. 

Soak seeds for 3-4 hours or overnight.

Drain off water (do not rinse) and pour seeds out onto a dish towel. Pat the seeds dry.

Spread the sunflower seeds in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake for 30-45 minutes at 300°F (or until lightly browned). Shake baking sheet once or twice during baking to stir seeds.

Allow seeds to cool completely and store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.

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Perpetual Vegetable, Fruit & Herb Calendar shows you when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants. See it in my shop.

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Which wildflowers should I plant?

For the best blooms year after year, choose wildflowers native to your area. Wildflower mixes are often sold as regional mixes—choose the correct one for your region or a single type native to your area. 

Growing wildflowers native to your area improves your chances of success, as these flowers have adapted to your region’s growing conditions. Adding native wildflowers is also a great way to benefit the native pollinators and beneficial insects in your area.   

One of my favorite wildflowers to grow each year is Arroyo Lupine—it’s a bit picky at first but reseeds reliably once established.

When do I plant wildflowers?

You can plant wildflower seeds anytime because temperature and moisture levels trigger the seeds to germinate. However, environmental factors such as birds and strong winds may reduce the number of seeds. In most areas, the best time to plant wildflowers is in the fall. 

When planting wildflower seeds in cold areas that experience freezing temperatures and snowfall, preparing the ground for planting BEFORE the soil freezes is essential.

Once you have had several hard freezes, then plant your wildflower seeds. Seeds will be dormant through the winter and germinate as temperatures warm in the spring.Plant wildflower seeds 60-90 days before your first predicted winter frost in mild winter climates. Seeds will germinate in the early winter and bloom through the spring. 

In the low desert of Arizona, plant seeds for spring bloomers from September through December.

• Spring-blooming wildflowers typically germinate in early winter, bloom from February through April, and then drop seed in April and May.
• The seeds are dormant through the summer until rain and cooler temperatures begin the cycle again.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Where do I plant wildflowers?

You may decide to plant wildflowers for many reasons:

• to replace a lawn
• a border for a property line
• erosion control
• a beautiful view

It may be best to begin by seeding small areas to gain experience and to see what you like. Choose a site that gets at least 6 hours of sun each day for the best results. Soil should drain well and be weed-free. 

How do I plant wildflowers?

• Use a shovel or rake to loosen the top inch or so of soil.
• If the area to plant seeds contains decomposed granite mulch (rocks), pull back rocks and work the top inch or two of soil.
• Many wildflower mixes contain filler, but if not, mix your seed with 1 part seed to 5 parts sand. Adding a filler before mixing gives a more even distribution of seeds. 

• Scatter seeds evenly by hand, or use a hand-broadcast spreader for larger areas. 
• After spreading seeds, walk directly over the planting area or use a seed roller for larger areas to compress seeds into the soil. 
• Do not cover wildflower seeds with soil.
• If you pulled rocks back to plant, move the rocks back into place after planting seeds. 

How do I water wildflowers?

Once planted, wait for the winter rains to germinate the seeds. 

If you choose to water your wildflower seeds instead, water so that the soil is moist, not soaking wet each day until seedlings emerge. You may need to water 1-2 times per day for 7-10 days to encourage germination.

You may want a wildflower identification field guide to help identify what is sprouting – weed or wildflower? Learn to identify wildflower seedlings and common weeds for your area so you can tell the difference. 

Thin wildflower seedlings if they emerge in clumps. The easiest way to thin wildflowers is by gently tugging up extra wildflowers. Allow each plant several inches of growing room (depending on the size of the plant). Overcrowded wildflowers will still grow, but plants with better airflow and adequate spacing grow and bloom better.

Once seedlings are 4-5” tall, water every 7-10 days if no rains are present; the seedlings will usually survive on natural rains. Some years winter rains are plentiful, and the blooms are too. In drier years, there may be fewer blooms.

Arizona Annual Flowers Planting guide helps you learn when to plant flowers in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Learn more about growing your own quick and easy flower arrangements in this blog post.

What do I do after the wildflowers bloom?

• Leave plants in place so they can “go to seed”.
• Normally, each flower develops into several seeds. As they mature, seeds fall to the ground, “planting” next year’s blooms for you.
• Once seeds have dropped, plants can be pulled up (shaking off excess seeds into the ground) or flattened to provide a natural mulch for the seeds.

Next year and in the following years, seeds will sprout and grow all on their own. Sit back and enjoy the accrued benefits. Learning how to grow wildflowers adds beauty to your yard for years.

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Garden Hack #1: The best way to use eggshells in the garden

Eggshells provide calcium and organic matter to your garden. Unfortunately, egg shells take a long time to break down. If you put them whole into the compost, the eggshells will be intact after everything else has decomposed.

The best way to use eggshells in your garden is to speed up the decomposition process in a blender. 

• Add eggshells and some water to your blender, give it a spin, and the eggshells are ready to pour into your soil.
• Consistently adding eggshells to the garden is a great way to improve the health of your soil over time.

Garden Hack #2: Celery grown from scraps

Celery from the garden is so convenient! There are many health benefits to eating and juicing celery regularly. The easiest way to grow celery is from a cut off-base of celery.

• Chop off stalks.
• Bury the base 2-3 inches deep and cover it in compost-rich soil.
• Sprouts from the stalk will appear in a few days.
• Give celery regular watering and fertilizer.
• Harvest stalks from the outside of the plant as needed.

Garden Hack #3: The best way to prune basil

Regular pruning of basil encourages a fuller plant and a larger harvest.

This article shares how to grow basil. 

• Once a basil plant is about 6 inches tall, prune just above a node (a grouping of 2 leaves growing out of the stem).
• The plant will branch out and grow from that point.
• Trim basil plants about every 2 weeks and pinch off flower buds as soon they appear.
• Consistently pruning basil ensures a steady harvest.

Garden Hack #4: Two things to do before planting flowers

The 4 and 6 packs of annual flowers are convenient and add a quick shot of color for the garden.

Doing these 2 things before you pop them in the ground will ensure a healthier plant and more blooms throughout the growing season.

1. Remove the flowers on the plant. Removing the flowers directs the plant’s energy to the roots rather than to producing seeds. The plant will settle in quicker and be a stronger plant overall. Pinching off blooms also encourages new shoots for a fuller and bushier plant.
2. Loosen and remove the corners of the roots of the plant. The roots have been very happy in their little ball of soil; disturbing the roots a little will encourage them to seek out your garden soil and grow deeper and wider. Plants with wider and stronger roots are healthier and easier to maintain, and you don’t have to water them as often.

Garden Hack #5: How to use coffee grounds in the garden

Free coffee grounds are readily available from your local Starbucks, so put them to use in your garden! Here are 2 simple ways to use coffee grounds in the garden:

1. Mix in with compost. Coffee grounds are considered green matter. This boost of nitrogen will heat up your compost fast!
2. Work coffee grounds into garden beds 1-2 weeks before planting.

Garden Hack #6: How to keep carrot seeds from drying out

Homegrown carrots are a great addition to your garden, but the seeds can be difficult to germinate. The problem? Carrot seeds are tiny and need to be planted close to the surface of the soil. They also dry out quickly and don’t sprout.

The solution? Put burlap or even a board on top of the soil after planting until the seeds germinate. Adding a barrier on top of the soil keeps the moisture in the soil longer. Moist seeds will sprout and grow.

Garden Hack #7: Best way to get rid of pill bugs organically

Pill bugs, potato bugs, rollie-pollies… whichever name you call them, they can eat through young seedlings and destroy your garden. 

Read this article for more ideas to prevent pill bug damage.

If you notice damage from these bugs (they are most active at night):

• Place oranges cut side-down in the garden overnight, check underneath them in the morning, and the soil will likely be teeming with pill bugs.
• Scoop out and dispose of the bugs.

Do this consistently and there should be a decrease in the amount of pill bugs in your garden. All this is done without harmful chemicals! To learn more about preventing pests organically, read this post.

Garden Hack #8: How to use Epsom salt in the garden

Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) strengthens plant cell walls, and helps plants use the nitrogen in the soil. Wondering how to use Epsom salt in the garden? It’s easier than you think.

Add 1 teaspoon Epsom salt to 32 ounces water in a spray bottle. Shake bottle well to dissolve. Spray solution on plant leaves and blossoms. This is a great treatment for pepper plants, tomato plants, and roses. Use an Epsom salt solution up to once a week during the growing season. 

Garden Hack #9: How to save seeds from your flower garden

Do some of your flowers look amazing this year? Don’t leave next year’s blooms to chance – save seeds from your favorite blooms on zinnias, cosmos, calendula, bachelor buttons, and many other types of flowers.

Saving seeds is simple for many flowers.

• At the end of the growing season, let the flowers mature on the plant without pinching off the bloom. The flower will mature into seeds.
• Remove seeds from flower, store in a paper bag or paper envelope, and label with type and date.

Saving seeds saves money and gives you a head start with seeds that did well in your garden’s specific growing conditions.

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